electrofrog points and DCC Concepts Digital IP point motors part 1

[@scotabot7826]

You DO NOT need to isolate the outside rails coming from the frog, as they remain the same polarity always. You only need to isolate the two inner rails coming from the frog. I just cut a small gap with a Dremel just beyond the frog to isolate the 2 rails coming from the frog, that way you can continue to solder all your joints. No need for plastic rail joiners.😁

[@allynwoodmodelling]

each to there own, with the heat fluctuations we get here in Australia I've seen a few rail expansion problems with soldered joints, and the plastic joiners work just fine...

[@richardswallow1967]

Just followed your procedure on gluing first point. Revamping a new layout, previously used pins... unfortunately pins on points tend to distort as I found on a few. I use cobalt motors and found them reliable. Again how you set out drilling from top. I'll be doing that from now on .....👍

[@allynwoodmodelling]

Thanks for the feedback, glad you got something out of it

[@chrisridd9423]

Did you put the spring box cover on upside down?

[@allynwoodmodelling]

Now I don't even remove the spring at all, with the digital IP it has enough power to overcome the resistance and the spring helps maintain good blade contact post throw. but your right it could be upside down! good pickup

[@HiFi39]

How did you wire up the two point motors to work together, looks a good job.

[@allynwoodmodelling]

thanks, ive replied to your question on the other video but here is the answer I put upApologies for the delay in replying, ice been in the UK, the cobalt motors on DCC you just simply put the same address in for both motors, for example address 075 will operate both motors at the same time, you might have to play with the positive negative wires and think about the mounting, they do have the capability to reverse operation so instead of throwing the switch it closes it so if mounting is an issue due to woodwork supports or anything you can use this functionRead more

[@Synthematix]

Brill!

[@johnkennetharkwright699]

An excellent 'how to', do you find that the dropper wires soldered to the fishplates gives a good continuity or are they better soldered directly to the stock rails. I have subscribed because you showed how to do it fantasticly

[@allynwoodmodelling]

Have tried both and I find the fishplates work as well if not better, then changing or replacing track is also easier even if it has already been laid . Never had a problem with oxidation

[@Synthematix]

Could you tell me the dimensions of this motor please, thanks

[@allynwoodmodelling]

Overall space required for Body as mounted depth height) allow 70mm including connector box, width allow 60mm across tabs and fulcrum, depth allow 40mm minimum. Mounting pad holes 33mm x 27 mm centres (approx) Hope that helps Allan

[@Synthematix]

Thanks mate. would have thought they would at least have put the dimensions of the unit on their site

[@allynwoodmodelling]

They do have them in there "operators manual" on their site but not easy to find or very clear.

[@Synthematix]

Ill be using these motors on my n gauge electrofrog points, does the motor feed power to the frog?

[@allynwoodmodelling]

N Gauge England -Synthematix- yes

[@richardray6827]

I would never buy these motors again. I have had nothing but problems. They often need to h ave their address reset and I have to check optically if the points have changed as I cannot trust them. To power the signals is very complicated compared to Tortoise motors. I honestly feel that I have wasted $Au600. The spring clips that do not require soldering are a pain. They are too close together and if you don’t have the wire perfectly stripped you just have to bump it or have a stray strand and it will short circuit or pull out. I would prefer to have a solid solder fit. I wish I had not bought them.

[@allynwoodmodelling]

I find that once the address has been set I've not had any problems with the motor remembering it, even when the unit has been not used for upwards now of over 12 months, reinstalled some motors recently and they worked fine with the same address without resetting. I do agree that the spring mounts can be fiddley, especially if your length of stripped wire is too short or too long and not twisted neatly as you say. but once mounted wiring can be changed without having to de-solder or dismount the motor (my soldering upside down is not the best!) Recently I've taken to not removing the spring from the box so you get a satisfying click when the motor throws giving you some re-assurance as to the point being thrown. There is another hiccup, when you run the motors via a separate bus system through the sniffer, they can overload unless you change the frog wire and run two more wires to the motor resulting in a total of 5 wires. This will be coverted in the cobalt alpha sniffer video (coming soon hopefully)

[@scotabot7826]

The Digital IP Cobalts are the best points motors on the market, I've found. I would never in a million years go back to tortoise machines. The digital cobalts are so far superior in every way!!!!! Nothing will work correctly if you don't know how to set them up properly, or take the time to do so. By far, they are the most friendly to use, plus there are no extras to buy if you would like to use a push putton switch along with the cab. Tortoise can't do that, without spending more money, as well as being so much louder. No Thanks!!!

[@richardray6827]

@@scotabot7826 good for you. I am glad you had no troubles. I did set mine up properly and contacted them dozens of times to find out why they were not working. They kept blaming me. It turned out they were indeed faulty. They never offered me a refund nor an apology.