Eliminating "Roping" Brush Marks When Painting

[@junangeles]

Who else watched this after messing up their paint job? That's me! Thanks for this I'll go back to my project to apply what I have learned from you.

[@garlicgirl3149]

Me!!!😂😂😂😂😂 OMG! I have no idea what I am doing.

[@Yale3014]

Me 😂🤣

[@chrish3682]

Same 🤣

[@lillithjones993]

😂

[@LV4REAL]

As with most things, it's trial and error! Learning rocks!!! 😂😂

[@tlw2585]

I have say as a high-end paint contractor 25+yrs, this video not only explains how but he also show exactly how to do it. That's awesome. One differences from myself is I use paint thinner to thin it. Finished product looks the same. The hardest and most important thing to NOT do is go back and touch an area thats already setting up. Lol You will screw up the finish.

[@sugrbaby66]

Hello is that paint thinner used to thin down water based enamel? I have dulux semi gloss, that i have done the worst job on i went over and over and over my paint and ruined the finish sanding it back sucked bigtime! Now im scared to use a brush! I brought foam roller, do you think i could use brush for some of the detail, and roller for the larger areas?

[@diverdave4056]

my oh my ... you must charge by the hour price $$$ and not give a bid for the job price !

[@Mountain-Man-3000]

To the point and no filler or annoying music. Excellent, thanks!

[@jckdnls9292]

This video could've been 1 minute long ... U realize .?

[@Renegator1]

@@jckdnls9292 I doubt it.

[@darcya.9390]

@@jckdnls9292yah, Nope!

[@bobleonard7122]

If only everyone produced DIY videos like this. Thank You!

[@paul5462]

Perfect. Answered all of my questions for trying to lose brush stokes on second coat of skirting boards.

[@stevesilva6478]

A very timely video for my project nearing completion. I always am unsure about checking for the proper viscosity of the paint, so the tip that you thin until the dripping paint just disappears into the surface is a perfect and easy to use viscosity check.

[@G.I.JeffsWorkbench]

Even tho I’ve been doing a task for years, often decades, I always leard something from you. Thanks for making us better.

[@nobbystyles4807]

handy tip for trying to pour a liquid out of those big square cans with the hole on one side. turn it around so youre pouring with the hole at the top not the bottom. this will allow the air to be at the top by the hole thus allowing air to go into the can as your pour.

[@nelsoncarpentry]

What I came to comment. 👍🏻

[@MAGAMAN]

Great tip for painting a 3 foot board on a bench. I'd love to see anyone do a single stroke across a 16 foot board attached to a wall.

[@tlw2585]

I want a brush that holds 16 feet worth of paint without dripping. I could get trim done so fast.😂😂😂

[@Renegator1]

I was taught to work back into the section that was just painted. But you can also cover all 16 feet with paint and then do a finishing stroke. You might have to walk a little...

[@tomstclair961]

🙃🙃😱🙄🙄🥴🧐😅😅😅 MAGAMAN, You told the truth right there brother!! The magic is stopping and starting!! To make it look like you never stopped 💪💪😲. That's where you earned the money 💰💰

[@tarmbruster1]

Oh common... blend the end stroke in more or less the same manner and continue down the board.

[@Natedoc808]

I’m terrible at painting and will be using a brush for the kitchen cabinets… great tips particularly with how to judge the viscosity. Thanks

[@tdematteo01]

Great video and thanks for the tips. Starting my baseboards in the morning. Here’s a tip for you. Think about why the can of penetrol has the screw top on one side and not in the middle of the can. You won’t spill anymore product when you find the answer.

[@tomstclair961]

Okay Gang, great video!! I learned another trick from an old family of oil finish painters. The problem with oil is, drying time, and odor.. In the process of waiting for it to skin over . Every bug , every piece of dust will find wet paint like it was calling to the wind to send them all. 😅😅😅😅Along with possible bumping into the bottom shelf while trying to paint the bottom of next shelf. This process will allow paint to dry to touch in 30 min. Completely dry in 24 hrs. Another great thing. I've actually used a 1/4 knapp smooth surface roller and applied it to entire smooth doors. It lays out and skin dries like it was sprayed on Beautifully.. No marks at all !!! Slick glossy finish!! Try it on a test piece if you doubt me. Myself I hate natural hair brushes. They hold to much paint for my taste.. They are heavy and bulky feeling and drip when working on crown molding if your not constantly watching .. I use a nice latex brush for all my trim work. One major thing I can advise also. Stop now and then and thoroughly clean your brushes during the job . They will last much longer and give you that same feeling as when you started the job. Dirty brush, dirty looking job. This mix will also eliminate the smell a lot of times also. So here's what I was shown.. Mixing enough to do a partial area !! I mix in Penatrol, Japan drier, small small amount.. A little bit of paint thinner.. Stir it and test your viscosity like your showing here.. its almost like water. 50/50 mix on Penatrol and thinner.. Then like I said I mix say 2 big mayo jars full each time so it doesn't start kicking off in container. One jar goes in my work can , while the other sitting on ready.. Always put lid back on your mixed jar while it's waiting to be used. Keep the air off of it or it will start to skin over. Then get to painting.. one thing also. The more that you cut the paint with thinner and drier, the less sheen your going to end up with when dry. So I go with high gloss paint to get a nice semi gloss look. Myself, I don't like high glossy surfaces unless on a picture frame or something like that. On crown and doors. A semigloss look is my preference . It's a beautiful contrast with a satin or eggshell wall paint. Great combination.. So if you want high gloss , and don't have any time issues on dry time then just go with the Penatrol and paint only. Maybe a touch of thinner. You can test on a board the desired gloss you'd like and play with the thinner to see how much it dulls the dried finish look I guess. Also! Japan drier can change color of white paints so always test your mix. It's not much, but if you have to match something be careful and test first.. So that's my nickels worth of acquired knowledge on painting oil. But seriously, try my mixture and try a smooth surface roller. The Penatrol let's all the marks left behind just lay out like glass. Amazing results.. it takes about 10 minutes maybe less and you watch them disappear.. Ok happy strokes gang!! Good luck 😊

[@toddmcmichael5505]

Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom. Helped me on my front door paint job. The light touch final brush stroke to reduce the lines was useful.

[@tonygrieco5918]

Very clear and helpful guidance on getting a good finish. Especially the advice on 220 grit for sanding in between coats. Thanks.

[@leemartinez4086]

Why not 400 grit sand paper?

[@punkyb0024]

This helps a lot! I accidentally bought an oil based paint and this explains so much, even for just painting in general. Appreciate you sharing your expertise 🧡

[@hmtrimworks7148]

You’re using it on flat surface. Can you use Floetrol on a vertical surface, like trim that’s already nailed to a wall?

[@tripjet999]

A good painter knows when to thin the paint and how much. If you thin latex, use distilled water, not water from the faucet. And make sure you use a high-quality brush.

[@hugot12]

I have to commend you with how you hold the brush right, dip the brush to load both sides of the bristles then tap both sides to pack the paint. Your smooth , right tilt is perfect, with just the right amount from end to end. I'm 48 yrs a painting contractor, started out with a master painting contractor as a teacher early in my long career. I think you just have to have a good hand able to pick this up. The Idaho Painter , (paint life) a successful business man, but as he says , "I'm self taught" he has probably 1000 video's here on KZbin. In about 1 min watching, I can see how a person holds the brush while moving paint ,that they really never learned the right way. He dips the brush ,doesn't tap the brush, and scrapes one side of the brush to finish loading the brush. Imagine being in business for over 10 years and being a clumsy brush man. He brushes , then goes back into the work and ads more paint, only to do a poor spreading of material When I watch you here, it looks like your lightly spraying on the finish lightly like a spraying pass of the gun, Feather light touch so as not to push the bristles through the light film layer. Floating the brush, not like blobbing thru it. You think most people have a hand for this, I think not Your hand skills must come from quality woodworking ? Thanks, your one of the first I've seen master what most people think is easy. I do all kinds of spraying, even cars if I want to, but being a good brush man is still a talent

[@ConcordCarpenter]

thanks friend

[@quentincrisp6933]

I recently prepared new cabinet doors and painted with 3 coats of latex. I do have roping ( areas where the paint wasn't applied evenly) in the center of the doors. Is it possible just to sand that area and repaint or do I have to do the entire door?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@quentincrisp6933 Absolutely - sand flat, flat, flat

[@MAGAMAN]

@@quentincrisp6933 You may be able to wet sand the paint smooth with 400 or 500 grit paper and be done with it. I did this with my window trim that came out less than perfect and it looks great now.

[@NMranchhand]

The tip on viscosity alone was worth watching.

[@darcya.9390]

Agreed 1,000 times over. I've never thinned brand new paint out the can. No one has ever suggested this at the paint store when buying it either. Live and learn.

[@raywright2401]

i agree about the brush being better than than the vacuum in terms of getting rid of sanding dust. I use a soft but stiff bristled brush and 'smack' it against the grains of wood to move it out of corners and grains. Nothing better, including tack cloth and blowers or vacuums--which don't have enough pressure to 'kick' the dust off the the surface.

[@williamcooper5009]

My favorite brushes for enamel work are made by Wooster. Brush model is the Mink. 1-1/2”, 2”, 2-1/2” and 3. 2”and 2-1/2” are my favorites. Great video, Rob! Oh, 320g between coats is better.

[@awesomesound-z7x]

I never thought I will be watching this tutorial,like I never thought I will be doing my own wooden table,but man this fun and the tutorial is awesome!!!!

[@thaitichi]

Using something like Penetrol to lower the viscosity is an excellent tip. Thanks Rob! Though you should flip the can over the avoid spilling it when pouring into the paint.

[@MuscleAKAOzzy]

Penetrol will help yellow your whites!;

[@shanew7361]

Floetrol try it works well. Nice video Rob, I hired painters to do this on all my wood trim that was painted with oil paint. Smooth ss butter and used Graham's Ceramic paint.

[@ryans9029]

Floetrol is for latex.. not oil. Penetrol is for oil.

[@joeyjojo5]

Thanks for taking the time to post this - very helpful tips.

[@Optimist_Insan]

Thanks for sharing! Some ordinary things and steps I normally miss as shown in this video should explain why I end up with brush marks :)

[@kenwatkins4329]

Well done, gives me confidence to tackle my trim job!

[@mdhaynie]

4:59 this is usually when my brush starts to grab and the paint feels tacky… even though it’s been less than 30 seconds. I’m guessing this is when Floetrol would be used? It also seems to get tacky faster with more expensive latex paints. I’m assuming it’s because it’s not “watered down” like cheaper paints?

[@cineaste1969]

I live in California so oil based paints are no longer sold here. When I worked in commercial we used to use oil based paints and would add paint thinner and Penetrol. We would also use Purdy ox hair brushes. This was mostly for commercial metal door frames and windows. Usually in schools, hospitals and government buildings. The finish was similar to spray finish. Usually they were occupied buildings so spraying was not practical.

[@neilaleksandrov2655]

Excellent pump me up and mental checklist before a job

[@ricobennett5598]

A little tip if you don't want your Penetrol to be split 50/50 between the paint bucket and the workbench... turn that can 180 degrees so the pouring spout is at the top, not the bottom when pouring. You're welcome.

[@jackhanaway8367]

Just a helpful tip. When pouring anything out from a quart can, try pouring it out from the opposite side of the opening that you did in the video. It won't spill down the side of the can then.

[@AB-nb2ic]

Any container with an offset spout. Linseed, motor oil, etc, keep the opening at the TOP, not bottom when pouring

[@KB-ie7jr]

@@AB-nb2ic Doesn't just about every container with a pouring spout have it offset near the edge of the container? Milk, Gas Cans, 5 gal paint pails... I've always poured with spout down. Have I been doing it wrong this whole time?

[@jameshutchinson3970]

@@KB-ie7jr xx xx xx in

[@jameshutchinson3970]

@@AB-nb2ic ioj

[@rsa4510]

Not sure if you care, but if you pour out of a can with the spigot in the opposite direction, you won't get spills like you had in the beginning of the video. I found this out from a dude who makes paints. Thanks for the great video.

[@cineaste1969]

A pretty good and well intentioned video but as some painters on here have pointed out quite a few things wrong with the information provided. One thing that stood out to me is in the sanding process. You start out with the coarsest sand paper first then work your way up to 220 which is the finest he used here. As far as thinning out paint, that is a process that takes some time to learn. Using Floetrol is great but I would suggest to thin it out with a little water first then Floetrol. Too much Floetrol makes it drag. I was a commercial painter for over 25 years and we did not paint things on a table under perfect conditions. The weather, humidity and the type of surface you are painting are some of the conditions you must take into consideration when deciding not only how much to thin your paint but what type of brush you will use. Always strain your paint if you want a quality job. Even brand new cans of paint have some debris in them. Use a good, clean quality brush. The size and shape of brush is also important.

[@Dadolaurenovic]

I think the video comment about the sandpaper is a relevant one. I have always started with the coarsest grit and worked down. Essentially, this is done to save time. What he is saying is to go the other way. If 240, for example, is not ‘cutting it’ then move to a coarser one. The idea is that you don’t gouge the surface unnecessarily and you don’t remove more material than needed, which I have done many times, especially on surfaces of varying softness (due to age and damage for eg.). I get what you’re saying, moving from coarse to fine works, and saves time, but often results in unnecessary smoothing with a fine grit and potential scoring of surfaces. Coarse to fine will guarantee a smooth surface, with enough work, but going fine to smooth will guarantee a smooth surface with the minimal work possible. I mean no offence and am not trying to argue, just trying to explain what I think he means, which is likely contrary to what 90% of painters would say.

[@thardyryll]

I also was baffled by his sandpaper suggestion. I can’t imagine anyone in the auto body industry, for example, following that method. I totally agree with the recommendation for a good brush. My 30-some Purdy brushes are the only ones I use. And, let’s face it, if the job allows, there is nothing like the results of airless or HVLP spraying. But what surprised me most was the amount of Penetrol that ended up slopped onto the workbench.

[@chadmcconahy5067]

Very well-versed in painting knowledge and information. Thank you

[@chrish7969]

So helpful, brother. Thank you, God bless you all!

[@ginoasci]

yes, prep is most of the battle. i use water to thin latex paint. it’s cheap, it’s always available, you never run out, and most of all it works great. paint with a good quality brush, and then run a roller over it. apply the paint, and run the roller over it. done. no fussing. AND IT LOOKS LIKE YOU SPRAYED IT ON !!!smooth, uniform, beautiful and so easy. you can run the roller over the surface even when it has started to dry if you missed a spot. just do it lightly. store the roller in a plastic bag and close it so air doesn’t dry the paint. always clean the brush. ready for the second coat…..give the surface a very quick sanding with a foam sanding block with fine paper or hit it really quick with 220, stir the paint, and add another coat. paint brush in one hand, roller in the other. the roller fixes everything, you can be sloppy with the brush, and the roller comes in and fixes all the uneven strokes, lines, clumps, missed patches, uneven paint. the roller makes it all look even, flat, and uniform, with a texture left with a spray gun. sometimes even better. roll out the uneven areas, then apply little pressure for that professional sprayed look. i love your videos btw. thank you and your friends for taking the time to make them. cheers !

[@PaulDo22]

Based on watching several KZbin videos of water vs floetrol I wouldn't recommend it. Water mutes the paint color whereas floetrol makes the paint brighter and looks more like oil based paint.

[@smurfysnowman]

do you use the roller when the paint is still wet or after the brush strokes have dried? if it's when the paint is wet do you do it with a dry roller with no paint on it

[@susanmarshall817]

I want to tell you what I learned as a teenager from my father and my grandfather. Most of your work is in the preparation which I'm telling you is 3/4 of the time that you will spend

[@ginoasci]

@@susanmarshall817 : read again, the first six words of my comment. Then read your reply.

[@susanmarshall817]

@@ginoasci I learned from two painters at the age of 16. I have not seen the average painter do what I had learned. They are careless about their prep. Not to say that you are.

[@cactuscannon]

What if I use a hybrid product like Benjamin Moore Advanced to paint cabinets? Which thinner do I use? Thank you, great KZbin!

[@stuartyoung1904]

Loved the video content and presentation. Naming brands you use is great especially if you're not being sponsored. Thank you .

[@realestateservicessaleshea99]

Thanks 😊 Stay safe.

[@onoahimahi]

Nice video. I especially liked the tip about knowing when the paint is thinned enough. However, your example was for a very small piece of wood. How do you handle larger areas like door frames or even doors themselves when using latex with Floetrol? How big of an area when you handle with a single tip off before you have to start overlapping sections because the paint is starting to dry too much? I.e., can you handle a a 7' by 6" door jam with a single tip off? Or would you have to start breaking it into sections like the top half and bottom half? For sake of argument, how would you handle painting a flat hollow core door if you only had a brush rather than a roller? Thanks!

[@digantshah1116]

Thank you for the awesome tutorial. I liked and subscribed to your channel.

[@martylucas8557]

Rob, how do you keep such a neat workshop. LOL! I’ve tried, but all it takes is a small project to throw it into disarray. Your shop truly looks as though everything has a place and there’s a place for everything.

[@Sharperthanu1]

I have found that soft bristle brushes leave less brush marks than stiff bristle brushes.

[@renostubbs8504]

Awesome tips for a professional finish,thank you

[@yvonnenatoli7887]

Thank you so much finally someone tells me how to thin paint ❤️❤️

[@cptrestlesssteven6469]

Great advice! Try a water based alkyd they are great easy to work with and layout great! I was taught to use a stiff brush our medium stiff brush. That helps also. Then again I know a guy who uses soft brush with expert finish. Keep making the industry better Rob!!!

[@prestonfeivor5488]

The stiffer the brush, the more brush marks show

[@shahsmerdis]

Benjamin Moore advance is awesome!

[@cptrestlesssteven6469]

@@prestonfeivor5488 Mr Feivor, that ignites conversations like paint the body first or cut in first? Or chicken or the egg multiple people in both sides of that one. Ironically I like cutting in with a softer brush as I get straighter lines and better flow of the paint for milage. Yet hard surfaces with the finesse of a stiff brush right paint pretty consistent results. Thank you sir!!

[@ryans9029]

​@@prestonfeivor5488that's not true.

[@prestonfeivor5488]

@@ryans9029 when is that not true then?

[@onoahimahi]

I’m having a hard time with brush marks on long runs like door frames. It is making me want to switch from latex to oil paint. You said to do the tip-off step the full length of the board - for how long of a board will that work for? A 7’ door frame? A 16’ run of crown molding or baseboard? There has to be a limit. I’m guessing it’s about 4’? And how do you blend?

[@kennethamend8557]

I recently purchased my 1st home for my dog Riley & me. The prior owner had her curtains screwed into the wood trim around the windows. Also, as you mentioned, the home was built in the 59's and there were multiple layers of paint. I've sanded the trim around the bedrooms windows and that went well, though I went to paint today and the brush marks were HORRIBLE!! I stopped immediately and found this video. Now I know with 100% certainty...what I need to do and my plan of attack has changed!! Thank You very much for sharing this information.. God Bless.

[@lindalester9151]

I can't for the life of me, stop the brush from becoming gummy and starting to dry out before I'm even done with my first pass on an 8 ft board. I use high quality paint, I tap side to side when loading, I do a light pass from one end to the other after initial paint is laid. I've mixed in floetrol and still can't seem to stop the brush from drying out and leaving tiny specs on my project. I end up sanding and doing another coat, just to have it start all over again. I use Purdy and Wooster brushes. Any tips would be great🤷

[@emw1994]

I'm fond of ben moores advanced. It levels nicely without thining, but you have to take care otherwise you'll get drips and sags.

[@21gonza21]

How much is 5 percent of 1 quart of paint? And did you say paint thinner as well or one of the other?

[@Gollammeister]

Wipe down with a damp cloth is good too

[@ninaelwart9460]

I’m using water based enamel paint in Australia. The weather is hot and humid pretty much most of the time and I can’t even get the paint to spread more than 2ft before it gets tacky and shows up your brush marks if you go back over it within 20secomds 🤷🏻‍♀️

[@sugrbaby66]

Me too, im in Brisbane using Dulux aqua enamel semi gloss and making a big fat mess, so I can do lots of sanding and make more sanding mess! Fun times! Why don't more people suggest thinning, the bunnings video didn't. How did yours turn out in the end?

[@ninaelwart9460]

@@sugrbaby66 ha ha me too! Brissy south side. Gotta love the humidity.

[@robt7165]

I allways thin out my paint ... walls ,trim ya takes a bit more time but results are way nicer and ya sand between coats he's do right I hate when guys try to paint something in one coat and tons of brush lines

[@flexiblestrategist9922]

Great video. I've learned "tipping".

[@kriscatlett6405]

I've also found that the paint makes a difference. I've used an alkyd paint and our painter told me to use flotrol. the same method you showed here. It was nearly impossible for me to get a good finish. I just painted some trim in my house using Emerald polyurethane from SW and didn't add any additive. It turned out flawless! I personally have had mixed results using flotrol. On another note. How do you handle a long run of trim such as baseboard in place? surely you can't do your "tip" stroke the entire run?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

You should have used Penetrol for Alkyd

[@jodyashmus8730]

@@ConcordCarpenter California outlawed penetrol...

[@jamiedorsey4167]

I've been using primarily SW paints for years. I had a customer recently want Benjamin Moore Impervo for her trim, and its way thicker. The SW goes on pretty good as is, but the Impervo needed a lot of thinning out to avoid brush strokes. Regarding the longer boards, it requires lifting off and on really lightly and consistently. And still keep the brush strokes as long as possible.

[@cassiecoleman3584]

Very clear - thanks

[@arturosaunya385]

for my next job im going to tell my guys to take all the door and baseboards down to the floor thanks for the pro tip👌🏽!! hey! how we put everything back?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Right on!

[@jaredrunner3578]

Thank you for the video. Can you prepare a bulk quantity of thined paint and use it for multiple jobs over multiple days? I do lots of small paint applications daily

[@jasonvegas3593]

About to paint my curved staircase using oil based and Penetrol. Wish me luck.

[@jessejohnson6698]

Thanks for being succinct. What about alkyd paint? Do I treat it like oil or like latex? Penetrol or Floetrol?

[@bruceyeremian9036]

installed new mdf pre-primed window sills, I'm not the best painter and really do not enjoy it so I see some videos where they suggest painting before you install the sills and then after installing filling the nail holes than touch up with the latex paint. Im not using oil paint so most likely SW semi gloss or satin. I just want a nice look to the sills without paint brush strokes. Thanks

[@j.w.gutierrez7824]

Hey man, first of all thanks for taking the time to show your methods and experience. Learned a lot from this. What type brush do you recommend for applying polyurethane and what sanding tool/grit in between polyurethane coats? Thank you very much for your time

[@maggiemay1434]

The first time I painted the interior trim of my house, I used high quality oil based paint which forgave all my mistakes. Years later, when I did it again, oil was off the market and even the really high quality latex I used showed tons of brush marks and other errors.

[@darcya.9390]

Same here. We started out with oil and loved painting with it. The self leveling of the paint was so helpful! Now I'm also super stressed about all the sanding needed to start over repainting the trim after 15 years. Painting with Advanced was a nightmare compared to oil. Plus, there is no comparison to the leveling you get with oil based paint. And dry time allowed much more room for going back over stuff if necessary.

[@henryfrank2052]

Thanks,🎉straight to the point instructions, no bullshit.

[@lisaferrara8120]

I have a question about sanding between latex coats. When I painted the second coat the paint started to gum up, and the brush dragged. I asked the paint store manager about this and she said that you should not sand in between latex coats unless enough time elapsed for the first coat to cure, about 14 days. She recommended not sanding between coats when the first coat has not cured, preventing the dragging and pulling of the paint and brush.

[@tccoggs]

High quality latex paint usually remain somewhat flexible and don't Sand well even after a decent amount of time. Final sanding is usually done after the primer as most primers will sand to powder and not gum up. At that point your surface should be as perfect as possible and then lay on your 2 topcoats.

[@lisaferrara8120]

@@tccoggs Thank you for your reply. I always sand after priming. This confirms a lot!!

[@AB-nb2ic]

Primer shouldn't be sanded. It's designed to provide a very slight texture to grab the paint. Sanding eliminates that.

[@tccoggs]

@@AB-nb2ic You don't get grain raise with primer?? I'm not sanding primer down to 320 grit or anything but I'm gonna knock down any grain raise or fur on the corners. Worked in a pro shop for years and especially on MDF, high build primer would always get knocked down before sanding. Have never had a bonding/adhesion issue sanding the primer, just don't go too fine on the grit

[@lisaferrara8120]

@@tccoggs I, too, knock down any high points on the primer. Again, I appreciate your expert advice.

[@Jessewren1968]

Penetrol....Ding, Ding, Ding!!!! That stuff is great.

[@totallycv2388]

I recently primed/finished about 60 x 8 foot lengths almost identical to the trim in the vid before installing them and have probably painted 1000's over the years. - Brush it on - take thick roller (without paint on it) and make 1 continuous roll from one end of the board to the other without stopping. - lightly roll the underside of the board edges to flatten out any drips. - light sand in between coats with 150 grit. - after sanding take a vacuum & run a damp rag over the trim. Allow 15 mins to dry before painting. - wrap your roller head tight in a plastic bag or 2-3 layers of siran wrap in the fridge if you take more than half hour off in between coats. Roller head with paint on it will stay fresh and reusable for several days stored this way. You can do the same with a paintbrush. Method works on installed baseboard trim as well, make sure you run tape along the wall just above the baseboard and ensure the floors are properly protected. No need to thin out your paint/primer. Whatever you do, don't buy cheap primer/paint. Good paint is much thicker and reduces the amount of A) paint you'll need and B) the amount of coats you trim/walls will need. You'll fly through it.

[@morokeiboethia6749]

Question - I was hanging some new doors in my house and was replacing the jambs on some of them as well and then I get to the painting part. I had heard oil based sticks better to wood / better longevity and so I decided to give it a try and I bought this Sherwin Williams oil based primer (using their website filter to narrow down the kinds of primer to choose from) and it narrowed it down to this primer that it said was for doors / molding. Ive painted with primers several times and i know it doesnt apply smooth/flat/silky like top coat does but this stuff was so far worse than anything I had ever used and it tacked up almost immediately after it hit the surface of the wood and when i was making a backstroke with my brush only 1-2 seconds later, the primer that was already applied on the first stroke had tacked up to the point where it wouldn't join with the wet primer on my brush and so it was "stacking" for lack of a better term and left the most uneven, puffy, roping look you could imagine. I only used it on the jambs b/c they dont have any decorative grooves to try to sand out. This stuff was unlike anything I had ever seen and it was to the point where I would tell someone it will ruin your molding. I just ran my hand across one of the jamb boards that I primed with this stuff and even after 10 minutes of sanding with a sheet sander, it has a very horrible texture-stringy with deep brush pits that you cant sand out. Is this normal for oil based primer or does this sound like it wasn't mixed right? I then bought some Penetrol oil based additive thinking it would make it more liquidy so that it would naturally flatten out. Penetrol helped it spread easier with my brush and for a few seconds it looked really flat smooth but after maybe 30 seconds after its on the surface I would start seeing the roping marks as it dried and it winds up drying just as horrible as with no Penetrol. Basically the Penetrol only seemed to make it easier to spread with the brush. It was extremely hard to paint using a brush b/c it tacks up literally instantly and was like trying to paint with honey. Is that normal for oil primer or does this sound like a foul mixed batch?

[@OVERKILL_PINBALL]

Great tips

[@doradougherty5192]

You are so impressive! I'm new at painting and want to do my kitchen cabinets. I noticed that you didn't use a primer? Is that because the surface was already painted?

[@tomjones2348]

I thought I could just go into homeDepot, tell them what I was painting, get the right stuff, and end up with the result I wanted. Dead wrong. Now I'm going to follow these instructions, and I know it will turn out perfect.

[@stormman8393]

Great video

[@dyonts1963]

With todays latex paints, how do you work the paint that much before it begins to dry? I’ve not found a latex that will allow me to paint the entire surface, then tip it out before drying. Seams to me you would be over working it. Please explain

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Have you tried cutting the paint with a little water?

[@martyray518]

Great tips 👍👍👍

[@appleknocker56]

Which type of brush would work best painting with acrylic paint? Ty for letting ppl know the prep work is so important! Used a “semi soft” 3/4th” brush but feel need bigger brush as at end (only one long paint stroke) or gets those ridges. Should have more paint on tip then at bottom & acrylic’s dry fast even w mediums!

[@rbrdly]

This seems great for a nice flat project, but I’m about to paint a round hand rail (dowel). Not sure how well the tipping is going to work on the convex surface. My first attempt was with acrylic paint, and it was horrible! It’s all sanded back and ready for oil-based paint, but I’m not sure how well it will go down.

[@AWBuilder]

My brushes always have a bristle come out of the brush and lay down into the perfect paint finish at some stage.

[@michaeljardim2444]

love these videos… great pro tips for the diyers

[@corteltube]

Thanks…painting my trim…looks great, but I know this brush lines are there, so I will try this method…thanks.

[@thepivotalsss]

Real good work up

[@pattyofurniture100]

Finishing is the bane of my existence

[@weaverlawfirm476]

What is the "setting" top coat? Just the paint or something else?

[@billyb329]

My tip for you is when pouring that penetrol is turn the can the other way so you avoid all that dripping

[@AshishSitapara-q7q]

I noticed you said to sand between coats. Why not sand after final coat to ensure a smooth finish.

[@AWBuilder]

You want to paint over a smooth surface with each coat, the paint fills the scratches. The top coat is glossy and any sanding will dull the look.

[@jazz901]

First, thank you for your video. I'm a pretty seasoned diy'er but I'm always learning. I'm adding M-1 to my latex paint so as not to have brush strokes on my baseboards. I'm painting 16 ft primed pre-installed baseboards. I can't keep enough paint on the brush to go the entire length. Can I do 1/3, 1/3 1/3 and then paint into the prior section so as not to have demarcation? Second, you mentioned lead paint. My second project is to prepare and paint all my window and door frames. They are 60 yr old ugly, varnished trim. I'm trying to get someone to test for lead because I'll have to sand them. Have you any experience with old varnished trim? Thk u so much.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

get paint on the whole board, bush it all on then complete the process by long brush strokes

[@atomflyer44]

How does "Tipping" work on a 12 foot long board? one end is already dry! Ugh

[@VenomBroly]

Hi, 1st : thanks for all your video specially the comparison tests ones , I was wondering : Did you make a polisher cordless comparison already ? With the Milwaukee M18, and the dewalt ?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

We did not

[@masterdcx]

Brilliant video thanks mate

[@loonaya]

Can you add water lowering viscosity. I'm not from the USA and I don't know that what would be floetrol and penetrol replacements over here

[@eamoncollier]

Thank you sir!!

[@Bart_Depestele]

thank you

[@ADIYHD]

I think you meant to say you start with 100 grit and go to 220. Not the other way around as you said in the video.

[@onoahimahi]

I think he was saying to start with as fine a grit that will do the job. He left off that you need to work back to the finer 220 grit before painting. For my current job, 220 is not enough so I will use 180 and then finish with 220.

[@jeffhildreth9244]

Nope. Use the finest that can and efficiently get the job done. Start with 100 and it is too coarse, now you have to sand that out to correct the troughs you just created.

[@elizabethbea5041]

This is possibly an odd question but I have an acrylic paint + primer that’s been opened and now I need to finish painting the room by doing the ceiling. What thinner should I use for that? I heard the options for oil based paint and latex paint.

[@TScott-vp9zv]

Excellent freaking video!🙏🏾❤️

[@C-Mah]

Nice video

[@michaeldwilson1471]

Thanks! Great information.

[@dominicoconnell1584]

Do any of the pros use laying off brushes or are they a gimmick

[@JamesOKeefe-US]

Thank you for this!!