EMax Tinyhawk III Plus Freestyle HD Review

Here is my unbiased review (I purchase all my quads) of the Tinyhawk III Plus Freestyle HD. I have included the good and the bad with some mods as well.
Amazon link to XT30 Pigtail with low ESR cap;
www.amazon.com...

[@tomkoller749]

I love my little thinyhawk3 plus. It is perfect for practicing light freestyle in parks. It's perfect for flying in parks 😊🥰🤟👍

[@slogfpv5679]

@@tomkoller749 yes agree it is a fun little park flyer. Happy flying!

[@Tom_Torres]

Excellent video! Thank you for explaining issues and your approach to finding remedy. It is appreciated.

[@slogfpv5679]

I greatly appreciate the feedback 👍 SLOG

[@rckyfpv]

Why does Emax have to use those terrible connectors?!

[@slogfpv5679]

I think BetaFPV charges a lot for the BT2.0 connector but now that GNB has the GNB27 connector I don't know why.

[@rckyfpv]

I think the price of the bt2.0 connectors are alright, because they have about 10 times the lifespan of ph2.0. gnb is heavier.

[@i3rucepain786]

Nice informative video. I just ordered one and was looking for more info, this is what I was looking for

[@i3rucepain786]

What is a good link for the right 2s battery to match the xt30? the biggest I can fit on this thing for max flight times

[@slogfpv5679]

Glad the video was helpful!

[@--JohnDoe]

Try a capacitor on the voltage output to the vtx.

[@PepeKaballa80]

Hi! Excelent video!! Could you share or make a video with the rates and filters?. Thanks again.

[@slogfpv5679]

Thanks for the feedback! Full disclosure, I would not consider myself a master tuner and more recently I have been using presets. This quad is not the easiest to tune as it does not have onboard flash for data logging for blackbox tuning. I usually use either Chris Rosser's process or UAV Tech's when I tune so they are an excellent source for tuning your quad. I have a couple of videos in process but after that I was going to do another upgrade video for this model but I can see what tweaks I can make prior to the upgrade and post them. Cheers, SLOG

[@Gucciadi]

great video man!

[@slogfpv5679]

Thanks 😊 for the feedback!

[@richardbowman6227]

I have the analog version it keeps falling out the sky a different time I'm still getting feed through my goggles this is my first drone I haven't manage to fly properly can you help please

[@slogfpv5679]

Hi Richard, sorry to hear you are having issues. There is not a lot of information above for me to troubleshot your problem, but what you are describing sounds like a control link problem between your remote controller (Radio Transmitter) and your quad (receiver). -> The ExpressLRS protocol is a great control link but needs to be setup properly. A lot of good KZbin videos and write-ups on ELRS. Here is a couple: oscarliang.com/setup-expresslrs-2-4ghz/ www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/getting-started/ ->Check the antenna on your RC-transmitter for damage or not tight on the RC-transmitter. -> If you are using JR-Bay module make sure it is seated properly. ->Also make sure you have a good charge on the RC-Transmitter (some are not calibrated for notifying you when the battery is low) ->Make sure you are seeing multiple bars (signal strength) on your RC-Transmitter (good control link connection) SLOG

[@MDubNM]

Thanks for the great review, very helpful! I also live at~5000' and decided to load the same preset, good tip, feels much better. That battery connector placement is just awful, and I can't seem to get it to lay flat without tweaking the heck out of the antenna. I've ordered a couple 2S 720's with the XT30, and I'm going to order the XT30 connector you have linked. Is the 100uF cap the right choice for a 720mAh battery?

[@slogfpv5679]

Hi, I have been running with the 100uF low ESR cap and it seems to be fine for noise suppression for this 2S setup. You could solder on a 200uF cap on the flight controller if you are concerned. This was just a convenient option that works for me. Since I replaced the HDZero VTX I have a really good video feed with this setup. SLOG

[@MDubNM]

@@slogfpv5679 Thank you very much for the follow-up. I'm brand new to FPV and it feels like a firehose of information. The THIII Freestyle is my first Quad and I'm doing my best to configure it properly while also trying to NOT destroy it. :-)

[@dortmunder27xxx]

​@@slogfpv5679Hallo. How far can you fly with the tinyhawk 3 freestyle hd? And is it possible to fly with Liion 18650 battery like Sony vtc6? Greatings from Germany.

[@slogfpv5679]

@@dortmunder27xxx , Good question. This quad would not make a good long range quad. Really designed for beginners flying in a park. For long range you would be limited by the VTX (low output power and for whoops) and antenna placement (would need to be on a boom). As for the 18650 you would have to make up 2S pack yourself or buy one. So to answer question about 1/2 Kilometer (visual line of site).

[@dortmunder27xxx]

@@slogfpv5679 You say it is good for beginners. Is it also resistant against crash? Have you also tried to fly the tinyhawk with 1S lipo? This could be a good beginner option not having so much power like on 2S.

[@BodyTransformerss]

Thanks for the video I have a question I have the same drone hd I’m having problems with binding to my radio master zorro 4in1 with the radiomaster range nano module is it a special way of binding it ?

[@slogfpv5679]

Since this is a SPI ExpressLRS, the version that the receiver is running is dependent on FW version loaded on the flight controller. In my case it was 4.4.2 BTFL. Which is compatible with ExpressLRS 3.3.x. I would double check you have upgraded to ExpressLRS 3.3.1 or greater on your range nano module. Also check your passphrase is correct in the Betaflight configurator. Here is a link that should help you: www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/getting-started/

[@xxmgz331]

Nice video 👍🏻 hey I have a question, i just got my Tinyhawk iii HD freestyle, and I can’t find the bind button in the drone can u help me? Where’s the Bind button in this drone

[@slogfpv5679]

Hello, there is no bind button. The user's manual on page 9 describes the bind process (link below): drive.google.com/file/d/1DqgYbF8dpg1VKPmHhgF5KfuCYgggyHAK/view "Binding Tinyhawk III Plus Freestyle with Remote Control Binding, also known as pairing, is the process of connecting the receiver and the remote control. One receiver can be bound to one remote control, while one remote control can be bound to multiple receivers. Note: The binding between the remote control and the receiver doesn't need to be repeated unless you replace either of the components. (1) You can put the receiver into binding mode using the Betaflight Configurator. In the CLI tab, type the following command: bind_rx, then press Enter. The receiver will enter binding mode. (2) Alternatively, you can also access the Betaflight Configurator, go to the Receiver section, and click on the "Bind" button. This action will put the receiver into binding mode. Changing Flight Controller Binding Key When altering the flight controller's binding key using the Betaflight Configurator software, follow these steps: Input the following commands into the command line within the Betaflight Configurator (using 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 as example keys): set expresslrs_uid = 0,1,2,3,4,5 Save Press Enter. Wait for the flight controller to restart and access the Betaflight Configurator. This will confirm the successful modification of the binding key. The manual has some pictures that are useful". Hope this helps. SLOG

[@xxmgz331]

@@slogfpv5679thx, one question more 😅 now I want to change my connector to XT30 I just ordered from Amazon, I’m new in soldering, I need to cut the old cables, or I just pull them out ? I’m scared cuz I’m thinking if I just pull them out I can damage something.. what you recommend me?

[@slogfpv5679]

@@xxmgz331 you de-solder the pig tail (wires that are on the flight controller end) by heating up the solder pads and wire until the solder melts and then pull the wire off. If you are not comfortable with soldering, I would watch some KZbin videos on the subject. Joshua Bardwell has some good videos on building your first quad that goes over soldering techniques. I would hate for you to damage the FC board by pulling off a solder pad. Again, if you are not comfortable doing this, I would avoid the upgrade until you practice on a scrap flight controller or test solder board. SLOG

[@averagefpv9449]

Thanks for the straightforward review! I'm subb'n ya bro!

[@slogfpv5679]

Thanks for the Sub! Greatly appreciated.

[@BodyTransformerss]

It looks so good man my hawks video looks terrible

[@slogfpv5679]

Hello @BondyTransformerss, Responded to your questions below. SLOG

[@eliplayzz7809]

you probably dont have the hdzero version, i copped the analog which is significantly worse

[@trxrich]

I'm an OG too. I bought the Tinyhawk FS 2 in analog to learn to fly acro freestyle after years of flying fixed wing LOS & FPV and DIY FPV camera drones. I flew at the local park and crashed the hell out of it mostly on grass but sometimes solid objects too. Only damage apart from props was the top bearings in the front motors got a beating and started whining and the camera lens was scratched up after many crashes. If Emax has made the TH FS3 as durable as the FS2 then it's probably worth the cost in the long run as a learner rig.

[@slogfpv5679]

Yes the durability of the FS3 HD is very similar to the FS2. Great for park flying. I do like the larger freestyle quads as far as fling, but just not comfortable with the noise and risk of damaging property in a crash. I never have to worry about 100 gram quads like this. Right now my favorite freestyle quad is my AOS 3.5 build but even with that, I don't fly it in a park even though it is more quite than a big 5 inch quad. Cheers, SLOG

[@Trosh_0]

Hi, im gonna replace my ph2.0's for an xt30 aswell, do you think that using the capacitor that is already soldered onto the circuit board of the double ph2.0 connector would be good to use for the xt30 aswell or should i buy the xt30's with the cap already soldered on, would that one work better? Cause i noticed that the one on the TH3 already on is 10V 220μF and the one on amazon with the xt30 is 16V 100μFt, which one is better? thanks for the video :)

[@slogfpv5679]

Hello, many people that stop by my channel are new pilots so I tailor my content on upgrades to be as easy as possible and why I suggested the pre-installed 100uF cap as it is easy to install. But to answer your question, yes if you have the soldering skills to solder the old 220uF cap on the end, that would be better. The best option, but more challenging, is to solder it right on the pads that the pigtail attaches to for the best filtering. But again soldering the pigtail and the low ESR cap on the same pads is more difficult. It really comes down to a question of what is good enough and I found the 100uF cap solution to be adequate for filtering. PS Make sure you check the polarity on the low ESR cap. Hope this helps, SLOG

[@Trosh_0]

@@slogfpv5679 Hi, thank you so much for your reply and the thorough explenation! Im not sure, that there's enough space to solder the cap directly onto the ESC, i think ill use the same solution as you, i found a 20V 220uF cap that ill just solder onto the Xt30 connector, thank you for the advice, i really appreciate it :)

[@skullfuel9]

Can i connect the hd zero vtx to my analog google

[@slogfpv5679]

@@skullfuel9 unfortunately not but HDO Zero does have an add on module if your goggles support HDMI input like the Fatshark HDO2s have.

[@RyanQuellet]

Noise on hdzero when motors arm is too bad. One thing that can fix this is soldering a ground wire from the vtx (any ground point) to a close point on the frame like a standoff

[@slogfpv5679]

Interesting idea. After I swapped out the VTX for a new one my noise issues with just arming the motors went away. However, wondering if using the frame (carbon fiber) as a ground point would help in general for video noise reduction. Thanks for idea. SLOG

[@tomkoller749]

where is the bind button? can someone tell me?? Please🤔

[@slogfpv5679]

Hi, there is no bind button for the ExpressLRS receiver on this quad. I always recommend using a binding phrase but there is also a traditional-way by power cycling 3 times to put it into bind mode. Link below to the ExpressLRS Org binding options: www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/binding/#how-to-bind-expresslrs-devices-together SLOG

[@tomkoller749]

Ok, thank you 😉

[@JPspinFPV]

I do not agree that this is good value for money today. Coming from someone who has a lot of money and time into the FS2. The reality is that there are just better quads available in the market.

[@slogfpv5679]

I think that depends on what you are looking for. Quads in this class like the Firefly 2S Nano Baby 20 HDZero is coming in at $319 US. If you are willing to spend more I would argue build a proper 3.5 inch quad with a HD system of your choice. Another choice is a good 3.5 inch BNF (lots to choose from now) so I agree with you there. It would be a way more capable freestyle quad. However, I am still not comfortable flying my AOS 3.5 inch quad in the parks I go to.

[@ryleighjulina5724]

Promo-SM 🤷

[@lesmaml7724]

Hello, I have the same parasite problem but only when I start the motors. When the drone is disarmed the video is good. Did you have this same problem? Thank you for this review

[@lesmaml7724]

Sorry, I just saw that you gave the answer. I didn't put the translator on

[@slogfpv5679]

@@lesmaml7724 no problem 😉

[@BodyTransformerss]

I’m having the same problem the video on my emax transport 2 hd googles it’s a lot of fuzz In the video how much was the fix because I was going to send it back

[@slogfpv5679]

Hi @BodyTransformerss, I would make sure your antenna (small UFL connector) has not popped off, your antenna is positioned up vs down before sending it back. Mine was obviously the VTX as just sitting on the bench and turning the motors on (props off), I got a lot of static. If it is a bad VTX it will cost you 54.99 US. Also if you are not good at soldering very fine pitch pads, I would not go there and would get a replacement. Cheers, SLOG

[@BodyTransformerss]

@@slogfpv5679 thanks man for your help I just checked and you were right the antenna was popped off thanks 🙏🏾

[@lesmaml7724]

Hello, did you manage to resolve your problem?

[@BodyTransformerss]

@@lesmaml7724 not but the problem is the antenna wire pop off the board so I might have to weld it back

[@lesmaml7724]

You can put a small clamp to tighten the ufl or maybe hot glue.