Hi @1210milky1, Thanks for the response! You can rotate the battery 180 in the battery tray to remove the twist but then the pigtail leads are more exposed (on the bottom). I think you will have to live with the twist otherwise. I probably don't have to tell you that a lot of these FC boards have no reverse polarity protection with a MOSFET. Be careful not to reverse the polarity on the FC board or you will "let the smoke out". SLOG

Yes this is the HD version and depending on how you fly (Acro vs Cruising) from 6 to 7 min of flight time. SLOG

Yes it's always the best feeling when you build something that actually flies! Cheers, SLOG

To be honest I have not messed with the LED strip colors and blinking patterns, just have one color with an aux channel that turns everything on or off. I use this as a cinewhoop for videography so the LEDs are usually turned off. However, here is a link to the Betafpv PDF file on controlling the LEDs as well as a video from Joshua Bardwell on LED strip configuration for Betaflight (a little longer video). support.betafpv.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/39516400507161 Betaflight 4.3 LEDSTRIP tab | COMPLETE WALKTHROUGH PART 15: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4POmWatjdt0eMk Hope this helps, SLOG

Hi @smajdovamanka, I use a binding phrase that you setup on the receiver tab in the Betaflight configurator since this is a SPI ELRS receiver. There is also a button binding method that you can use but I would recommend the binding phrase method. Here is a link to the ExpressLRS.org for binding ELRS SPI receivers to your transmitter: www.expresslrs.org/hardware/spi-receivers/ SLOG

There's a little tiny gold with a black dot button on the bottom of the flight controller

Hi @mdasadalihaidar1920, As you probably know, just adding a larger capacity battery does not mean you will get a linear improvement in flight time. You will need to do some experimentation if you are more interested in flight time vs flight performance. You also might consider building your own Lithium-ion battery as they have a higher energy density than a LIPO and you can run them down to a lower voltage. The disadvantage they have a lower C rating which means they are not good for freestyle. Here is an article from Oscar Liang on improving flight time. oscarliang.com/improve-fpv-drone-flight-time-efficiency/ Joshua Bardwell on picking the right size battery. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4SVe36wj9ZskKc SLOG

Hi @mdasadalihaidar1920, As you probably know, just adding a larger capacity battery does not mean you will get a linear improvement in flight time. You will need to do some experimentation if you are more interested in flight time vs flight performance. You also might consider building your own Lithium-ion battery as they have a higher energy density than a LIPO and you can run them down to a lower voltage. The disadvantage they have a lower C rating which means they are not good for freestyle. Here is an article from Oscar Liang on improving flight time. oscarliang.com/improve-fpv-drone-flight-time-efficiency/ Joshua Bardwell on picking the right size battery. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4SVe36wj9ZskKc SLOG

@@slogfpv5679 any chance you picked up the dji o4 lite? Curious if it can drop into this frame :). I have the hd zero version and would love to replace it with dji. Appreciate your opinion!

@@99ATX I agree with you, this is a great little freestyle whoop👍

Hi @Sugar_K, Your tune is awesome!! One of the best tunes I have flown on a Tinywhoop. Keep up the good work! Fun quad to fly. Cheers, SLOG

Unfortunately I don't have this model anymore but what you could try is in the CLI type "dump" and look at the "board_name" at the top of the file and use that for the "Choose a Board" selection or try Auto-detect in the Update Firmware tab to see if it shows up as a target to flash.

@@slogfpv5679 Well, yeah, I have a dump all from the BF Cli, and version is actually the command that only shows the board version, the problem is this Tiny-whoop-nano came with a weird custom FW to communicate with AgentX and flashing betaflight without having a custom target (hex file) doesn't actually work.

@@nikhayes3396 you might try reaching out to Team Black Sheep Support to see if there is a Betaflight FC target that can be used. Sorry I couldn't be more help. SLOG

Glad the video helped out and appreciate the comment. I have been using mine a lot lately since it is the start of whoop season. SLOG

You should be fine since the increased disk area of the prop is not huge. You will probably get shorter flight times (higher KV motors and smaller) if you are heavy on the throttle stick. You will not hurt anything so I would give it a try. SLOG

Sorry to hear about your crash. Here is a link to the Emax website that has spare parts for the Tinyhawk III Plus Freestyle: emaxmodel.com/collections/tinyhawk-iii-plus-freestyle The flight controller replacement link is: emaxmodel.com/collections/tinyhawk-iii-plus-freestyle/products/tinyhawk-iii-plus-spare-parts-pack-c-all-in-one-aio-fc-esc-elrs I hope this helps to get you back into the air. SLOG

@ thanks a lot man keep up the great work for the community 🫡🛩️

Nothing wrong with flying Analog. There are some sub $100 dollar whoops out there.

@@slogfpv5679 im not sure about that, don't I need a controller plus vr thing?

@@slogfpv5679 any suggestions? (its alright if you don't know)

Hi @BodyTransformerss, That is the flight controller with the USB-C port on the top. Here is a link to the part on Emax's website: emaxmodel.com/collections/tinyhawk-iii-plus-freestyle/products/tinyhawk-iii-plus-spare-parts-pack-c-all-in-one-aio-fc-esc-elrs It looks like it comes with motor connectors soldered on so you will either have to de-solder connector or add a connector to the end of the motor wires. Here is the replacement parts URL as well emaxmodel.com/collections/tinyhawk-iii-plus-freestyle I hope this helps, SLOG

Appreciate the comment! Cheers, SLOG

@@dekorasirustic it is the DarwinFPV 600mW VTX for the analog version I reviewed. HD version is the Walksnail 500mW 1S VTX. SLOG

The antenna mod will also work with the analog version. It does two things, first it is a better antenna and second you can position it above the batteries for less signal interference. Lastly, trying a different band and channel (e.g. Race band channel 8) if you are getting Wifi interference (above Wifi frequencies). SLOG PS here is a good reference chart for the Bands and Frequencies as compared to WiFi: www.getfpv.com/learn/fpv-essentials/fpv-frequency-reference-chart/

I use the Foxeer Lollipop 4 on the quad. Amazon link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WLCFM5H It is Right Hand polarization (most common). I would assume your googles have RHCP antenna's as well. Point being check to make sure (labeled on the antennas). If they are, I would not worry about changing them out. I would start with the quad first. Cheers, SLOG

@@cruzfriesen2632 unfortunately not. The camera was designed for the HDZero VTX. SLOG

Hi Michael, Sorry you are having issues. Sounds like you lost your configuration which can happen if your battery voltage drops too low. Joshua Bardwell has a short video on this (ignore his rant since you found the CLI dump) which does have some good information on steps to recover your lost config. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4rWnaZ6Zql7l9k Hope this helps. SLOG

Hi, the hole dimensions and spacing are actually standard. What is not standard is there are only three screw holes so it really looks weird. I think they went with 3 screws so they can skinny up the front arm strut to lose some weight. I actually have some Gemfan 2540 2.5x4.0 and will have to give them a try. Thanks for the suggestion. SLOG

Thanks for the support. A 100ufd to 200ufd should be fine. I have used the following pigtail with a low ESR cap already soldered on from Amazon and it works fine: www.amazon.com/QWINOUT-Capacitor-Sailfly-X-TRASHCAN-Crazybee/dp/B07ZPZBPLL/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1THR9Q8Y2L83Q&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zkTnfgvKMujUL8CJIo1ubQ.C0oY00FwOR5SyeJG59SYh_7qBrXl2J0js65fmnqAuBY&dib_tag=se&keywords=QWinOut%2BXT30%2BPlug%2BPigtail%2BPower%2BWire%2B100uF%2BCapacitor&qid=1726624897&s=toys-and-games&sprefix=qwinout%2Bxt30%2Bplug%2Bpigtail%2Bpower%2Bwire%2B100uf%2Bcapacitor%2Ctoys-and-games%2C122&sr=1-1-catcorr&th=1

@@slogfpv5679 thank you!! So much. You’re awesome!

@@slogfpv5679 Would an XT30 with a 470uF capacitor work? There is a pack of three on getfpv.

Hi Thanks for the comment and thumbs up. Actually this is a HD-Zero VTX. I have all three systems (DJI, Walksnail and HD-Zero). Yes I am one of the crazy tech junkies when it comes to FPV. Cheers, SLOG

A very common binding problem is the receiver firmware on the quad is on a different major release version than the transmitter side. I would check that first. Also, Radiomaster will ship their radio transmitters with a packet rate of F1000 and I am not sure if the ELRS receiver on this whoop supports this rate, but regardless, I always set mine to 250HZ. Lastly, here is a link to the Expresslrs org with a good writeup on binding: www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/binding/ SLOG

@@EjentoX yes you can, better than most cinewhoops as the ducts are really just prop guards and not very tall. SLOG

@@carlosr.2027 yes if you are chasing grams and have the soldering skills. The trade off is motor replacement is more difficult. Plastic motor screws could be used. Going with Bi blade props (may have to cut down 4 blade prop) can shed some weight.

Even though Pavo 20 is larger, I think it is better because of the frame design. I have no issues with jello in the video indoors or outdoors. I know reviews of the Pico complain they have to play around with it to get clean video (why I went with the 20). Also, the Pavo 20 is still small enough to fly indoors. There is also the new Pavo 20 pro, but you are stepping up to an even larger and heavier quad. Please keep in mind I am not a professional videographer, just a hobby for me. SLOG

@@skullfuel9 unfortunately not but HDO Zero does have an add on module if your goggles support HDMI input like the Fatshark HDO2s have.

@@TheDroneNerd my go to whoop battery is the Tattu 300mAh 75c black HV. Love these batteries.

@@DadRandom thanks for the sub👍

@@neuromancer692 totally agree no downside.

@@hamzaghulam-c7l thanks!!

@@RAF-FPV thanks 😊 appreciate the feedback !

@@RAF-FPV thanks 🙏

Thanks and the 35mm props make a big difference. Cheers, SLOG

Appreciate the feedback 😀

Hello, many people that stop by my channel are new pilots so I tailor my content on upgrades to be as easy as possible and why I suggested the pre-installed 100uF cap as it is easy to install. But to answer your question, yes if you have the soldering skills to solder the old 220uF cap on the end, that would be better. The best option, but more challenging, is to solder it right on the pads that the pigtail attaches to for the best filtering. But again soldering the pigtail and the low ESR cap on the same pads is more difficult. It really comes down to a question of what is good enough and I found the 100uF cap solution to be adequate for filtering. PS Make sure you check the polarity on the low ESR cap. Hope this helps, SLOG

@@slogfpv5679 Hi, thank you so much for your reply and the thorough explenation! Im not sure, that there's enough space to solder the cap directly onto the ESC, i think ill use the same solution as you, i found a 20V 220uF cap that ill just solder onto the Xt30 connector, thank you for the advice, i really appreciate it :)

Hi, I know it is confusing but some FPV quads come as Ready To Fly (Comes With Controllers and in some cases goggles). This is a Bind and FLY which means you bind it to a controller that supports the RC control link. In this case it is ExpressLRS. For this model you also have to install the DJI O3 air unit. So to answer your question why? Because it is a cheaper option if you already have a controller and goggles (not added into the cost). SLOG

@@JoachimCarmody-nr6jh Thanks for the comment and welcome to the Hobby👍

@@tomkoller749 yes agree it is a fun little park flyer. Happy flying!

Thanks appreciate the response! SLOG

Thanks for the feedback! Full disclosure, I would not consider myself a master tuner and more recently I have been using presets. This quad is not the easiest to tune as it does not have onboard flash for data logging for blackbox tuning. I usually use either Chris Rosser's process or UAV Tech's when I tune so they are an excellent source for tuning your quad. I have a couple of videos in process but after that I was going to do another upgrade video for this model but I can see what tweaks I can make prior to the upgrade and post them. Cheers, SLOG

# diff all ###WARNING: NO CUSTOM DEFAULTS FOUND### # version # Betaflight / STM32F411 (S411) 4.2.0 Jun 14 2020 / 03:04:43 (8f2d21460) MSP API: 1.43 ###ERROR: diff: NO CONFIG FOUND### # start the command batch batch start # reset configuration to default settings defaults nosave board_name FLYWOOF411 manufacturer_id FLWO mcu_id 002c003e3439510436383737 signature # name: FLYWOO # resources resource BEEPER 1 C14 resource MOTOR 1 A08 resource MOTOR 2 A09 resource MOTOR 3 A10 resource MOTOR 4 B00 resource MOTOR 5 B04 resource PPM 1 A02 resource PWM 1 B01 resource PWM 2 A03 resource SERIAL_TX 1 B06 resource SERIAL_TX 2 A02 resource SERIAL_TX 11 A15 resource SERIAL_RX 1 B07 resource SERIAL_RX 2 A03 resource SERIAL_RX 11 A01 resource I2C_SCL 1 B08 resource I2C_SDA 1 B09 resource LED 1 C13 resource SPI_SCK 1 A05 resource SPI_SCK 2 B13 resource SPI_MISO 1 A06 resource SPI_MISO 2 B14 resource SPI_MOSI 1 A07 resource SPI_MOSI 2 B15 resource ADC_BATT 1 A00 resource ADC_RSSI 1 B01 resource PINIO 1 B05 resource FLASH_CS 1 B02 resource OSD_CS 1 B12 resource GYRO_EXTI 1 B03 resource GYRO_CS 1 A04 resource USB_DETECT 1 C15 # timer timer A02 AF3 # pin A02: TIM9 CH1 (AF3) timer A08 AF1 # pin A08: TIM1 CH1 (AF1) timer A09 AF1 # pin A09: TIM1 CH2 (AF1) timer A10 AF1 # pin A10: TIM1 CH3 (AF1) timer B00 AF2 # pin B00: TIM3 CH3 (AF2) timer B04 AF2 # pin B04: TIM3 CH1 (AF2) timer B01 AF2 # pin B01: TIM3 CH4 (AF2) timer A03 AF2 # pin A03: TIM5 CH4 (AF2) timer B10 AF1 # pin B10: TIM2 CH3 (AF1) timer A15 AF1 # pin A15: TIM2 CH1 (AF1) timer A01 AF1 # pin A01: TIM2 CH2 (AF1) # dma dma ADC 1 0 # ADC 1: DMA2 Stream 0 Channel 0 dma pin A08 1 # pin A08: DMA2 Stream 1 Channel 6 dma pin A09 1 # pin A09: DMA2 Stream 2 Channel 6 dma pin A10 0 # pin A10: DMA2 Stream 6 Channel 0 dma pin B00 0 # pin B00: DMA1 Stream 7 Channel 5 dma pin B04 0 # pin B04: DMA1 Stream 4 Channel 5 dma pin B01 0 # pin B01: DMA1 Stream 2 Channel 5 dma pin A03 1 # pin A03: DMA1 Stream 3 Channel 6 dma pin B10 0 # pin B10: DMA1 Stream 1 Channel 3 dma pin A15 0 # pin A15: DMA1 Stream 5 Channel 3 dma pin A01 0 # pin A01: DMA1 Stream 6 Channel 3 # mixer mmix 0 1.000 -0.809 0.659 -1.000 mmix 1 1.000 -1.000 -0.659 1.000 mmix 2 1.000 0.809 0.659 1.000 mmix 3 1.000 1.000 -0.659 -1.000 # feature feature -RX_PARALLEL_PWM feature RX_SERIAL feature MOTOR_STOP feature SOFTSERIAL feature GPS feature TELEMETRY feature OSD # serial serial 0 64 115200 57600 0 115200 serial 1 2 115200 9600 0 115200 serial 30 1 115200 57600 0 115200 # aux aux 0 0 1 1375 2100 0 0 aux 1 2 1 1600 2100 0 0 aux 2 46 2 1700 2100 0 0 aux 3 13 0 1700 2100 0 0 aux 4 35 3 1700 2100 0 0 # rxfail rxfail 6 s 2000 # master set gyro_lowpass2_hz = 325 set yaw_spin_recovery = ON set dyn_lpf_gyro_min_hz = 260 set dyn_lpf_gyro_max_hz = 650 set acc_calibration = 60,-24,68,1 set mag_bustype = I2C set mag_i2c_device = 1 set mag_hardware = NONE set baro_bustype = I2C set baro_i2c_device = 1 set baro_hardware = NONE set rssi_channel = 12 set rc_smoothing_derivative_type = BIQUAD set serialrx_provider = CRSF set blackbox_device = SPIFLASH set dshot_burst = ON set motor_pwm_protocol = DSHOT300 set failsafe_procedure = GPS-RESCUE set current_meter = NONE set battery_meter = ADC set ibata_scale = 170 set beeper_inversion = ON set beeper_od = OFF set small_angle = 180 set gps_sbas_mode = AUTO set gps_rescue_angle = 25 set gps_rescue_throttle_min = 1300 set gps_rescue_throttle_hover = 1400 set gps_rescue_min_sats = 5 set gps_rescue_allow_arming_without_fix = ON set pid_process_denom = 4 set osd_vbat_pos = 2305 set osd_rssi_pos = 2177 set osd_rssi_dbm_pos = 161 set osd_tim_1_pos = 2401 set osd_tim_2_pos = 2369 set osd_flymode_pos = 2273 set osd_throttle_pos = 2361 set osd_vtx_channel_pos = 2241 set osd_craft_name_pos = 2081 set osd_gps_speed_pos = 2264 set osd_gps_lon_pos = 2124 set osd_gps_lat_pos = 2092 set osd_gps_sats_pos = 2167 set osd_home_dir_pos = 2190 set osd_home_dist_pos = 2200 set osd_flight_dist_pos = 2232 set osd_altitude_pos = 2327 set osd_warnings_pos = 14729 set osd_avg_cell_voltage_pos = 2337 set osd_disarmed_pos = 2411 set osd_flip_arrow_pos = 2113 set osd_core_temp_pos = 2296 set osd_log_status_pos = 2145 set system_hse_mhz = 8 set cpu_overclock = OFF set max7456_spi_bus = 2 set dashboard_i2c_bus = 1 set pinio_box = 40,41,255,255 set flash_spi_bus = 2 set gyro_1_bustype = SPI set gyro_1_spibus = 1 set gyro_1_sensor_align = CW180 set gyro_1_align_yaw = 1800 set gyro_2_spibus = 1 set name = FLYWOO profile 0 # profile 0 set dyn_lpf_dterm_min_hz = 91 set dyn_lpf_dterm_max_hz = 221 set dterm_lowpass2_hz = 195 set anti_gravity_gain = 5000 set iterm_relax_cutoff = 20 set p_pitch = 52 set i_pitch = 63 set d_pitch = 68 set f_pitch = 80 set p_roll = 47 set i_roll = 59 set d_roll = 63 set f_roll = 76 set p_yaw = 50 set i_yaw = 63 set f_yaw = 76 set d_min_roll = 41 set d_min_pitch = 45 set d_min_boost_gain = 27 profile 1 profile 2 # restore original profile selection profile 0 rateprofile 0 # rateprofile 0 set tpa_breakpoint = 1250 rateprofile 1 rateprofile 2 rateprofile 3 rateprofile 4 rateprofile 5 # restore original rateprofile selection rateprofile 0 # save configuration save #

Here is the factory diff I had on my computer. Make sure you are running Betaflight 4.2.0 to start with. SLOG

@@slogfpv5679 ... Great, Thank you so much.

@@slogfpv5679 ..... Great, Thank you so much.

Hi @BraynerBR, Thanks for the feedback! IMHO, unless you have spent hours in a simulator, I would highly recommend starting out with a 1S Whoop over a 5 inch. Not saying it is impossible but could lead to frustration and way more dangerous (31 grams vs 500+ grams take off weight). Also a 5 inch will hit your pocket book substantially more. Yes I have flown it indoors and it is actually very smooth in angle mode as long as you manage your throttle. SLOG

Looks awsome. Does the FC have pads to add a beeper?

@@Z4nd3r-D Yes it does have Buz- and Buz+ pads www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2023/09/04/superx-hd-elrs-1-2s-aio-flight-controlelr-built-in-12a-esc-and-uart-elrs-receiver-for-digital-whoop/ SLOG

Hi, there is no bind button for the ExpressLRS receiver on this quad. I always recommend using a binding phrase but there is also a traditional-way by power cycling 3 times to put it into bind mode. Link below to the ExpressLRS Org binding options: www.expresslrs.org/quick-start/binding/#how-to-bind-expresslrs-devices-together SLOG

Ok, thank you 😉