End Battery Leaks! The Definitive Guide to Leak-Proof Batteries

Discover the Ultimate Leak-Proof Battery for Your Maglite, flashlights, and electronics.
Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA: amzn.to/3PEpaUH
Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA: amzn.to/3vvSQfK
Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA 2 Pack: amzn.to/3PEZib2
Powerowl AA Low-Drain NiMH: amzn.to/3ITKDoT
USB-C AAA/AA Pack: amzn.to/4ae9tf2
USB-C AA 4 Pack: amzn.to/4cwr3fV
Has a Duracell leaking battery ever turned your emergency light into a costly mess? You're far from alone. In this video, we dive deep into the battery world, comparing alkaline, NiMH, and Li-Ion options to reveal your Maglite's safest and most reliable picks. Say goodbye to the days of cleaning up leakage and hello to a bright, dependable future.
Learn why alkaline batteries, despite their common use, are prone to leaking and damaging your devices with their corrosive residue. Find the Duracell batteries leaking solution as we explain the chemical reactions that lead to this unwanted outcome and how factors like temperature and battery age play a significant role. But it's not all bad news; we also cover how timely intervention with simple household items can prevent permanent damage.
Our guide doesn't stop at just diagnosing the problem. We introduce you to the world of NiMH and Li-Ion batteries, highlighting their environmental and economic benefits, rechargeability, and significantly lower risk of leakage. Whether you're a tech enthusiast looking for the latest in USB-C rechargeable Li-Ion batteries or someone seeking the eco-friendly durability of NiMH options, we've got you covered.
The Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries are at the heart of our exploration, renowned for their leak resistance, exceptional temperature adaptability, and impressive shelf life. Discover why these batteries are our top recommendation for keeping your Maglites and other devices running smoothly, regardless of the conditions. Watch now to ensure your flashlight remains a reliable source of light, not a source of frustration.
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
This video is NOT sponsored. Some product links are affiliate links, meaning we may receive a small commission if you buy something.
Chapters:
00:00 End Battery Leaks! The Definitive Guide to Leak-Proof Batteries
00:17 Why do Alkaline Batteries Leak?
02:03 - NiMH Rechargeable Batteries
02:43 - USB-C Rechargeable Li-Ion Batteries
03:44 - Energizer Ultimate Lithium Batteries

[@chestersedc]

What has been your worst battery disaster? Too many Maglite and other flashlights were destroyed in my vehicles, so I had to do something. Ultimate Lithium batteries have fixed this issue for me. Read the reviews: amzn.to/49iY8sH. Disclosure: This comment includes an Amazon affiliate link, which means if you click on it and make a purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support my channel and allows me to continue making content for you. I appreciate your support!

[@jed-henrywitkowski6470]

Duracells and cheap batteries in general have always been an issue. Energizer weather or not they are Li have proven themselves repeatedly.

[@stevebabiak6997]

Rayovac and Duracell have been the leakers in my gadgets. I now get the Harbor Freight alkaline batteries, inexpensive and not as prone to leaking (but still leak occasionally).

[@TheReal1953]

I just salvaged a leaked 3 D cell Maglite. In hindsight, I should have tossed it. What a MESS! I had it soaking in white vinegar and lemon juice for 24 hrs.....didn't touch it. Finally, I took a hole saw bit smaller than the battery diameter and drilled it out all the way down to the spring. I could not at first get out the butt cap. Then I broke the butt cap to finally turn with heat. I had a whole shop at my disposal....what a waste of time. Even after drilling all the batteries out, the damage to the inside surface was horrible. Stubborn, I'm going to finish it with a used butt cap and then convert to LED with a glass lens. This thing got way more attention than it deserved.

[@Eduardo_Espinoza]

I bought a wireless PS2 controller with included OEM Duracell alkaline batteries, that ended up LEAKING in my hands while playing with my relatives! 🤬

[@bobsoft]

Maglite penlight that had Duracells in it for a long time. They were impossible to get out and the corrosion was too bad to repair. At my work we had a barcode scanner that was run over and the Lithium cells inside burst into flames. Another time at work we had a weight scale that ran off of a Deep cycle battery. It was always plugged into a charger when not in use and one day it overheated and filled the building with smoke. ⚡⚡🔥🔥

[@unclerojelio6320]

I’ll never buy a Duracell battery again.

[@chestersedc]

I understand your frustration with Duracell batteries. Thanks for watching.

[@joeyjennings9548]

i had duracell new in package leaking. i have old 2013 expire duracell batteries still fully charged ? i also have had new duracell batteries REVERSE POLARITY?? new stuff is crap.

[@ToyotaKTM]

Duracell batteries are optimized TO LEAK. Kirkland (Costco) batteries are made by Duracell, so they leak too.

[@txrascal]

I agree. I’ve had to many new ones leak

[@animalcorvair]

they are junk....used to be the best ,,,

[@ScottGrammer]

I'm old enough (almost 60) to remember when the Duracell was the best battery money could buy. But over the last few years, Duracell changed something - I don't know what - and now I will not buy them under any circumstances due to their well-earned nickname, "Duraleak."

[@nilremuk]

Even just 20 years ago they seemed fine, it feels like maybe 15-20 years ago something changed.

[@robertthomas5906]

I used to carry a pager. Back in 1989 I bought a new one. It took AAA. So I put a duracell AAA in. It didn't turn on. I bought brand new duracell AAA batteries and it wouldn't turn on. I took it to the pager company. She said Duracell won't work and put in an Energizer AAA. It ran for a month. No kidding. Anytime, anywhere I'd put a Duracell in that pager it wouldn't work fresh out of the package. I haven't bought duracell for decades. I love the energizer lithium.

[@stevebabiak6997]

In recent years, might they be “made in China”?

[@stevebabiak6997]

Ok, so “made in China” now gets your post censored? C’mon KZbin, that’s lame.

[@practicalguy973]

My experience with Duracell is that at home they leak and at work they did not. I work in the same broadcast television business for the last 25 years that is humidity and temperature controlled. We've had Duracell in most old IR remotes and many other battery brands and none leaked at work. I actually pulled a bankers box out recently from storage looking for something and found about 30 IR remotes that had AA and AAA from various equipment and none leaked, some of these have been in this storage for 10 years others maybe 4-5 years. I've also had packs of Duracell AA and AAA in my emergency preparedness supplies from the same era and most of them leaked. My home has no air conditioning or humidity control and fluctuates quite a lot from summer to winter months.

[@davidh.8513]

I swear I will NEVER buy Duracell batteries again. I used to think they were the best! I don`t know how many times they leaked all over my devices even with years before expiration.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for watching!

[@NinerFourWhiskey]

Duracells I bought at Costco - leak in the package, brand new, unused, only a few weeks after purchase, with years and years left on the expiration date.

[@chestersedc]

Oh man, that's a bummer. Did you manage to get a refund or exchange them? Costco does a good job with returns. Thanks for watching.

[@chrispy6313]

I had the same problem at another store brand new in the package leaking.

[@glennfrancis9031]

Same here. No sense in getting the big package when they're all rotted out and leaking before you can use them. Damaged one of my Garmin hand held GPS's.

[@chestersedc]

@glennfrancis9031 You could try white vinegar on a Q-Tip to try and fix your Garmin if you still have it around. It takes time but will eventually clean away the crust if the damage is too severe. Good luck.

[@MuckSpreader99]

Costco's own brand are terrible for leaking and I would never, ever, use them again. I use Varta these days.

[@noluck33]

First thanks for not having Ads!!! Duracell AA and AAA are simply the worst batteries on the market for leaking!!!

[@chestersedc]

I appreciate your comment! It's always good to know what works and what doesn't for our viewers.

[@______IV]

I’ve found Duracell alkaline batteries my family left in old electronic devices from the 70s & 80s that are just fine, but have had to replace multiple remote controls damaged by Duracell alkaline batteries purchased two years ago. They clearly aren’t made like they used to be.

[@chestersedc]

That's interesting to hear about the difference in battery performance over the years. They don't make things like they used to. Thank for commenting and watching!

[@dAzFivefoUr]

Yep, I found the same thing, 45year old duracells in a toy have not leaked, they were made locally in Sydney Australia, now they are made in China, they changed something, I've had the new duracells leak in my remotes, clocks and torches, the worst is the quartz clock movements, leaking batteries destroy most of them, I tell my customers not to use duracells at all, Panasonic, Eveready, Sony.

[@Drivr555]

Before I retired from the fire department, I was responsible for maintaining the SCBA's (Self Contained Breathing Apparattus) or, in laymans parlance, "Smoke Masks." Modern SCBA's rely on electronic circuitry to manage the systems and to protect the wearer. We used to use Duracell until they began to leak so badly in the packs that we would have to send them in for repair. We spent thousands of dollars in repairs on almost all of the SCBA's because of leaking Duracell batteries. When I reached out to Duracell, they tried to explain away that it wasn't the batteries fault. IOTW, they denied responsibility for the damage their product caused. We switch over to Eveready alkaline batteries and, voila! the leaks stopped.

[@chestersedc]

I'm glad you found an alkaline battery that worked better. Give Lithium a try to get even more leak protection. Thanks for sharing your experience and watching.

[@Drivr555]

@@chestersedc I've been retired now going on 6 years. Probably would have switched to Lithium had they been more mainstream at the time. Unfortunately, they weren't readily available at the time and really weren't thought about that much then. I hope that whoever assumed the (thankless) job are using them now.

[@chestersedc]

@Drivr555 - Congratulations on your retirement. Hopefully I'll get there some day too. Enjoy!

[@briantii]

Amazon batteries seem great in my experience. Never had one leak. Duracells just always leak.

[@Frient]

@@chestersedcI do the same job in the Coast Guard. Lithium batteries aren’t approved since they’re a potential fire hazard. We use Duracell procells. They get swapped annually and in my experience they don’t leak.

[@m3rdpwr]

I used to work for a company back in the '80s and I bought two workbench multimeters that took four C size batteries. I had radio shack branded alkaline batteries, which were made by energizer. Those batteries were probably 30 years old when I replace them a few years ago. They were still working, but I forgot to power off the multimeter and drained the batteries dead. Surprisingly, still no leaks. Today's Duracell batteries just leak nasty and ruin everything.

[@chestersedc]

I'm glad you didn't have any issues. I made the mistake of leaving Duracell in my Meade ETX 90 telescope. I hadn't used it in a few years, and when I got it back out from the basement, the batteries had leaked so bad the corrosion went all the way to the electronics board. I had to unsolder the old wires and completely replace the wires and battery terminals. That was an expensive lesson to learn. Saving a few bucks on batteries isn't worth it. Thanks for sharing and watching!

[@dr.detroit1514]

I had one 1996 Duracell D battery that lasted until a few months ago, then it leaked and I had to toss it.

[@scrope]

Old alkaline batteries contained mercury, which made them resistant to leaking. The mercury was there to absorb the hydrogen gas, which builds internal pressure when the battery is used, causing them to leak. I use Envelop or Ladda rechargeables mostly and Lithium when I need super reliability or weather protection.

[@chestersedc]

Looks like you've got your battery game on point - Envelop for the everyday, Lithium for the superheroes! Thanks for sharing the mercury fact and watching. Learn something new everyday.

[@donaldstrader7241]

That is what I do too. I generally stopped using Alkaleaks. Interesting information about the mercury absorbing hydrogen gas. Too bad they apparently did not find a less harmful alternative. Materials can result in a big difference. There was a study that found batteries were losing charge more rapidly than would be expected. It turned out that a plastic tape being used to hold components together was breaking down and conducting electricity. Change of materials ended the problem. I don't remember exact details, although I imagine a search could find the article if anyone is interested or to verify my hazily remembered reading of the article.

[@rickcurtis2983]

I've only had trouble with Duracell AA and AAA batteries leaking badly AND LONG BEFORE their expiration date. They've ruined telephones, clocks, remotes, etc...in each case they were not expired.

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for sharing your experience. Thanks for watching.

[@dAzFivefoUr]

Yes that is my experience too. The remotes and clocks still work while the duracells are leaking away Seiko make these animation clocks, their biggest problems is leaking batteries, they simply recommend to change the batteries every 12 months regardless

[@SianaGearz]

All alkaline batteries will leak before expiration date if you have several in series and one of them is flat. It's then reverse biased by the still healthy cells and leaks in short order. Duracell is exceptional in that even individual never used cells occasionally leak without any good reason at all.

[@markdanielczyk944]

I'm glad it's not just me. Switched over to Energizer years ago.

[@chestersedc]

Nice choice on switching to Energizer! It's been a game-changer for me too.

[@glevideo]

For many years I managed a television studio near Washington DC and we found very disturbing destruction of much of our portable equipment caused by leaking Duracell Copper Top batteries (AA) in a relatively short period of time. We ultimately had to ban the use of Duracell batteries in any of the studio's equipment. Other brands such as Eveready or Rayovac or others were much less likely to leak. The Duracell batteries are terrible batteries causing hundreds of dollars of irreparable damage to our equipment. I even found a few boxes of them at home which I had purchased a year or two before our studio wide ban so I just threw them out without even trying to use them. It wasn't worth putting them in any of my devices risking damage.

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for sharing your experience with Duracell batteries. It's a valuable warning for all of us to be cautious with the brands we use.

[@kkuenzel56]

I'm done with using Duracell batteries. They've ruined too many of my devices. They leak more than Energizer in my experience.

[@chestersedc]

Right there with you. Thanks for commenting and watching!

[@WiseGuy02]

Duracell copper top batteries are notorious for leaking.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for the heads-up about Duracell batteries leaking. Gotta watch out for those!

[@AnX8765]

Duracell PopTheirTop 😉

[@chestersedc]

🤣

[@RJTC]

I repair industrial electronics. I've seen numerous CNCs that have had Duracell AA cells used for backup, that have had leaks & damage from those. I even have some unused Duracell AA cells, still in the film wrap and not all that old, that have started leaking. In contrast, I have a D Cell Maglite I bought in the mid to late 1980s. The Duracells in that had an expiry date of 1995 - but I only had to change them last year when they finally gave out, and there was still not the slightest trace of leakage or corrosion. I have no idea what they have done, but they have definitely gone from the best to the absolute worst.

[@chestersedc]

It's surprising how the quality of batteries can vary so much over the years.

[@NCF8710]

They removed every trace of mercury from these cells a few decades ago. This is when leakage became prevalent. I found a pair of Eveready alkaline cells from the 70's in a junk drawer. They were the ones with gold colored steel jacketed cases. They were dead, but were devoid of any leakage or corrosion.

[@johnclyne6350]

I stopped buying Duracell batteries altogether. Back in the day (40 years ago) Duracell adds on TV were every where touting how good their batteries were. Now? Garbage! I refuse to use them. I buy Energizer now & we’ll see if they don’t leak? I still have a couple of Mag Lights kicking around. None have Duracell batteries in them anymore. I used to have a whole slew of them around the house. They were destroyed by leaking Duracell batteries. I replaced all of them with Streamlight rechargeable flashlights. I buy the Pro-Tec LED models. I’m super happy I found those! Soo much brighter.

[@hawkhawkins2275]

I have lost too many electronics to Duracell, I had stopped using them and switched to energizer and have had no issues with them...A friend of mine works in the Bio Mech dept at a hospital, and he told me they only use Duracell Pros as battery backup in their machines, so I figured I'd buy a box and try that, they also leaked and damaged everything I put them in, so now I avoid them at all costs...When I asked my friend why he recommended them, he said he's never seen them leak, so I asked him how long until they change them out for new ones, and he said they do it every 6mos to a year, or less if the Hospital looses power they change them all out right after...Those aren't cheap batteries, no wonder hospitals charge 20 bucks for a Tylenol, they need to offset the costs of the overpriced garbage batteries they throw in the garbage if they are used for 5 minutes...

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for sharing your experience! It's always helpful to hear about real-world usage of products. Thanks for watching.

[@nilremuk]

Re the change after a power cut, that's most likely an insurance/safety issue as it's easier and cheaper with less chance of a potentially fatal paperwork issue than trying to track the length of all power interruptions, also they'll know how long the battery as specced should last without being used (and thus how long the equipment should be OK for) Its wasteful if they don't do something like give them to schools etc, but makes sense in the same way fire extinguishers are often considered "expended" if used at all and should be swapped out (and are usually refilled).

[@michaellemon8287]

I'm from Poland and I'm surprised why so many people complain about leaking alkaline batteries, not only here but in many forums. I've used a lot of alkaline batteries in my life and I've never had even one leak (actually, one leaked but after I recharged it so it doesn't count). Back in early 80's when in my country the most popular batteries were poor quality cheap carbon zinc ones the leakages were pretty frequent and normal. Then when alkaline batteries became popular they were mostly considered leak proof and in my experience they were. Maybe my good experience is because I rarely buy Duracells? Some 20-25 years ago I used a few Duracells just to test them, they were with the fancy button and strap for displaying left capacity - they worked fine but because Duracells have always been expensive I have most often avoided them. Most often I buy Varta, Maxell, cheap supermarket brands, sometimes Energizer, Toshiba - and they have never leaked for me whether in high or low drain devices.

[@chestersedc]

I had completely forgotten about the Duracells with the built-in battery testers. Thanks for watching.

[@dubmob151]

They're just temperature indicating strips that show the heat generated when the battery is loaded, I never found them to be useful, too slow and variable to be used for evaluation. Gimmicky.

[@davidellis417]

Duracell worst batteries for leaking

[@lurkerrekrul]

When I was little, I had some small battery operated toy cars called Sizzlers. They were slightly bigger than Hot Wheels cars, plastic, with small electric motors and rechargeable batteries. These batteries were maybe the diameter of a AAA battery, but only maybe 1/3 the length. They had no labels or markings, just a bare metal shell, with a groove around the top end, and a small hole in the center of the top. To charge them, I had a charger made to resemble a gas station. You plugged it into the wall, then plugged a short cable into the side of the car with a 1/8" plug, and wound the knob on top to serve as a timer. When it was done, you pulled out the plug and the motor could be switched on with a slide switch on the bottom of the car. Each charge lasted maybe a minute or so. My point in telling this story is that every time I'd leave them sitting for a few months without playing with them, I'd pop the bodies off the cars to find that the batteries had a white crust on the top ends. It never seemed to harm the contacts in the car though, and I'd just use an old toothbrush to clean it off. Once done, I'd pop it back into the car and it seemed to charge and work fine. Conversely, I once saw a toy where the batteries had leaked inside the wired remote control. The corrosion actually traveled up 12-18" worth of wire and corroded the contacts on the motor itself. They were a sickly green and just broke off. I also found a wireless mouse in the trash that had a leaking battery in it. It not only corroded the contacts, the corrosion traveled along the circuit traces and corroded the microswitch for the left button. No, I will NEVER call it the "left click".

[@chestersedc]

Wow, those Sizzler cars sound cool! Thanks for sharing your story about the batteries, I'll definitely be more mindful of leaving gadgets untouched for too long.

[@SianaGearz]

NiCd cells used to ooze. I'm using an Emmerich 1/3AAA NiMH cell in my G305 wireless mouse. Well the cell is made by GP, it's just tabbed by Emmerich.

[@DanBrando]

I loved Duracell in the 90s now no way. Energizer only

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for sharing your preference! It's great to hear your thoughts. Thanks for watching.

[@jameslongo4601]

I had several products destroyed by alkaline batteries leaking Duracell Energizer, Member's mark (Sam's). I now use Lithium batteries (AA, AAA) and have had no problems, plus they last longer.

[@christopherhume8896]

I've stopped using Duracell because they leak so much. One problem I've found with my Enelope rechargeables is that they are too tight for my maglite. They fit fine in my camera flashes but must be a fraction wider than normal AAs and wedge in the torch.

[@johns7734]

Same here. I've gotten "10 year" Duracells home from the store, only to realize that they are already leaking. There's no way that I'm going to destroy my electronics with a Duracell ever again!

[@chestersedc]

I have noticed that some NiMH batteries are a little larger and don't fit into everything as well. Thanks for watching.

[@timhartherz5652]

While every alkaline CAN leak, it's always the f-*ing Duracell which are the most frequent offenders, and its never just a small leak. I recommend good old Zink-Carbon for emergency lights, near zero self discharge and leak proof, you just don't have to worry about them even if you forgot about them for years. For anything more frequently used, a good Ni-Mh, unless its a high power device in which case li-ion which won't live as long though.

[@nilremuk]

Same here. I've had the supplied duracells in things like wireless mice and keyboards start to leak, fortunately noticed early. I've lost something like 5 Maglites to them. I now no longer consider Duracell for anything as I class them as trash tier due to the high chance of leaking.

[@Davidian1024]

The Duracell NiMH cells we have are just a bit too fat to fit in a number of our devices as well. No issues at all with our Energizer NiMH cells.

[@El_Diablo_LI]

Like everyone else in the comments section, I too have had nothing but ruined electronics from using Duracell batteries. I find it hard to believe they don't know they have a problem and haven't done a thing to rectify the issue. But as others have said, I will never buy a Duracell battery again, EVER!

[@NCF8710]

This is a characteristic of ALL alkaline batteries regardless of the manufacturer. They don't call them 'alkaleaks' for nothing.

[@tallboyyyy]

Ive used Industrial Duracell D size cells in my flashlight at work and it got destroyed because almost new batteries leaked. It literally ate the shiny coating off the reflector the bulb mounts into. Ive had very good luck with the Thunderbolt brand alkalines from Harbor Fright. I have never had one leak and they are inexpensive.

[@chestersedc]

Bummer about the Duracell batteries, but it's good that the Thunderbolt ones are holding up well for you! Thanks for the tip!

[@donaldmiller9130]

I put a single Energizer "D" cell battery -- with no "use by" date -- in an indoor-stored emergency strobe back in July 1997. I check it every few years, just for fun, and smile that it's still usable more than a quarter century later. No leaks. I date all of my many dozens of installed batteries with an ultrafine Sharpie, and I find it interesting that some leak, and others just keep on going. I agree that dry cells kept in hot cars tend to suffer the most. I buy major brand alkaline AA and AAAs during superstore Christmas sales, when they can be found for as little as 25-50 cents each in 36 packs, then I rotate my stock.

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for sharing your experience and tips on battery maintenance! It's great to hear about your success with the Energizer battery.

[@davidnabbit]

I switched to almost all Eneloop or Energizer Lithium a couple years ago after getting sick of finding leaky batteries everywhere. I used to get Costco alkalines, but had a couple whole packs go bad, partly in my devices and partly brand new in pack. I still have a handful of other alkaline or heavy duty batteries I’m slowly using up for low-risk things, like wall clocks.

[@chestersedc]

It's great that you found a reliable battery solution with Eneloop or Energizer Lithium! Those are my top choices as well. Thanks for watching!

[@kirkdarling4120]

As a photographer for the last 50 years, I've been using all kinds of batteries, and I gain more and more battery-powered devices every year. Right now, I use nothing but Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries in everything I can. Whether a device can take an AAA or AA battery (instead of a button or some other size cell) is sometimes even one of my criterion for choosing it. My primary reason is because I've never suffered a leak of an Energizer Ultimate lithium battery, even in devices that they might sit for months between uses.

[@peterpb0ans68]

Duracell or duraleak is in my country the most expensive battery you can get. The percentage that leaks over time, even far before the expiration date is not to ignore. I’ve switched to cheap pound shop brand ones years ago. These leak less often, have almost the same capacity and cost less than a quarter of the duraleak batteries. In every case, check your battery operated device now and than to prevent damage or a nasty cleaning job.

[@chestersedc]

I appreciate your insight on battery choices and the importance of checking devices regularly.

[@mrmosinnagant7787]

ive always had problems with Duracells leaking. switched to Panasonic and energizer

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for sharing your experience! It's great to hear that you found a solution with Panasonic and Energizer.

[@rawbacon]

Back in the day Duracell replaced a couple on my mini-mags their batteries destroyed, these were not sitting around for a decade with batteries in them but maybe a year at most. I guess the only good thing is they gave zero hassle and shipping something like that to them was relatively inexpensive back then compared to the price of a new one.

[@saxmusicmail]

In my 3xD Maglights I use the Eneloop D cell adapters which I put in EBL AA rechargeable Lithiums. If there were to be a leak the leakage would be contained inside the D adapter. Plus, I've converted my Maglights to LED, so they draw much less current than bulbs. The EBL AA's really hold their charge while stored, both the ones here in the house, and the ones in my vehicles. I recharge the AA's every 6 months, but I am sure they will hold up longer if I forget. I use a silver Sharpie to write last date of charge on the outside of the Maglights. When I need to remark I clean off the previous charge date with a little alcohol.

[@JayWye52]

the 1.5V Everready lithium cells are the BEST if you need 100% dependability and no leaking. In my own experience,Duracell alkalines leaked more often than any other brand,and that's well within their marked dates.

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for sharing your experience with different battery brands!

[@Thestargazer56]

Duracell batteries used to be very reliable, but now they are junk.

[@artbobik3516]

over the years I have lost expensive multi-meters, GPS, many other test equipment. Metal detectors, I lot of these were no longer in production, since I discovered Energizer Lithium, I will not use anything else unless they are just temps or will be removed as soon as I am done using the devise - also as a note: the Energizers are 1.7 volts and not 1.5 like the leaky crap batteries and a full 1/2v higher then the other rechargeables - in the Pulse Induction metal Detectors that means a lot more depth and that last a lot longer - I keep AAA and AA spares all the time - not cheap but worth a lot more than the cost - have not had one leak since they came out -

[@chestersedc]

It's great to hear that Energizer Lithium batteries have been a game-changer for you in terms of reliability and performance!

[@dubmob151]

Not everything is compatible with the higher voltage of the lithium cells though, that's my concern aside from the high cost. Low self discharge NIMH is a more universal leak solution.

[@rickgilbrt]

I used to buy Rayovac AA an AAA batteries regularly because they were a bit cheaper than Duracell and Energizer. Then Rayovac introduced their "High Energy" upgrade. They leaked in the package before being installed, years before their expiration date. Before I started noticing new ones leaking in the package, I had lots of small devices in which I had to clean terminals damaged by leaking Rayovacs. I have not had that experience with Duracell or Energizer, so I use either when I want alkaline batteries. For most AA and AAA devices, I now use NiMH rechargeables as more economical than going to Li rechargeables. We use a lot of battery candles around the holidays and I use a 16-bay charger to keep fresh batteries available.

[@chestersedc]

I appreciate you sharing your insights on battery brands. It's always helpful to hear about personal experiences to make informed decisions.

[@danielsailors6644]

They used to call me the copper top man, this came to an abrupt end when I sailed to remote places and bought quite a few packages of AA and AAA batteries to keep in the sailboat since we would not have access to supply for a long period of time. What a mess, they started leaking still in their packages and the ones in use were also leaking destroying equipment that we needed. NEVER AGAIN buying those copper garbage, lesson learned, if it was good before doesn't mean products are good now

[@chestersedc]

That sounds like a real nightmare!

[@jeremiahbullfrog3090]

Duracell's f'd up everything I put them in. Not allowed in my home anymore. WTF Duracell?

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for sharing your experience. I've had the same experiences with Duracell. Thanks for watching.

[@nickjames4497]

Vowed never to buy Duracell years ago…. Damaged equipment due to leaks…. Useless customer service….

[@tonymanero5544]

Agreed. My Duracell experience is many leaks.

[@NCF8710]

Not only Duracell. All alkaline batteries will leak. They are disposable batteries for disposable devices.

[@jeremiahbullfrog3090]

​@@NCF8710 AA and AAA Duracell batteries ruined everything I put them in. Bought a bunch on sale at Costco and started using them. They leaked magnificently. Every other brand, including Enegizer and Amazon essentials, not so much at all. Bottom line, the Duracells I have left are for temporary use only and get removed after use so I don't give them a chance to destroy anything else.

[@GregSr]

Duracells have ruined too many of my devices. I stopped using them about 5 years ago. My own unscientific observation was that the Costco Duracells were the most likely to leak. I nick named them "Duracrap".

[@bobcongleton9220]

Good video... I have been using Eneloop's for several years, and they are fine batteries and they are far more cost effective than the leaky disposables...

[@chestersedc]

I appreciate your support and it's awesome to hear that you've had a positive experience with Eneloop batteries. Thanks for watching!

[@rueman84]

I had some good luck with the Energizer batteries in my electronics, but not so with the Duracell’s

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for sharing your experience with different battery brands!

[@username-mc7jw]

Anything I care about gets Ultimate Lithium batteries. Period! Way cheaper than replacing devices every year.

[@Striker_AgingGamers]

Wow... Funny timing on this video in my feed... I just pulled out leaking energizer Ni-Mh batteries from an old Guitar Hero controller yesterday! 😅 I've never seen those leak before.

[@jameslongo4601]

I have been having alkaline batteries AAA, AA leaking, and making a mess in my products (major brand batteries), some in as little as 4 months. I now use Energizer Ultimate Lithium, and they are well worth the extra money. I've never seen one leak, and they last MUCH longer. They are the same voltage as alkaline 1.5 volts. Nimh batteries are usually 1.2 volts. A higher amp battery is usually ok as long as it is the correct voltage 1.5 volts.

[@pasqualeparente9776]

thank you for this info.

[@chestersedc]

You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.

[@Heisenberg55]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I have had great results with Energizer. On the other hand, Duracell are absolute crap unless you want your equipment destroyed. My last experience with Duracell was an unopened multipack 2 years away from expiration stored with emergency supplies. Over a third of them had ruptured in the unopened pack. Now my first choice is Energizer and second choice is anything but Duracell.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for sharing

[@craigf3277]

Every time I have a leak, it's a Duracell.

[@cewotu7721]

Thank you for the informative video! Well, with the Ultimate Lithium ones just be aware of the danger of explosion if poked through (which is rarely the case), but the flame is not extinguishable even under water! Other than that, I use them, too, and am overall satisfied with their performance. Keep in mind though that they will end their long life without much warning, the curve being quite steep down at the end...

[@chestersedc]

I appreciate your insights on the Ultimate Lithium batteries!

[@jamestucker8088]

Thanks for the video. Surprised that anyone still uses Maglites. They were the best like 30 years ago. Now you can get very strong LED lights that use a standard 18650 Li battery.

[@chestersedc]

It's amazing how technology has evolved over the years, right?

[@lordleonusa]

Maglites can be improved by replacing the old incandescent bulbs with a high quality LED. Admittedly, they are not as bright as some of the modern LED flashlights, but they are still good around the house, but still keep an eye on the Alkaline D-cells so they don't start to leak. It's also quite a good idea to put Vaseline on the outside of the batteries before putting them inside the maglite.

[@allkindsofoutdooractivities]

Nice! Thank you for sharing

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for watching and leaving a comment!

[@allkindsofoutdooractivities]

@@chestersedc you are welcome!

[@chrislj2890]

Yep, modern Duracells are garbage. I've used Eneloop for my photo gear for sometime. Lately I've switched to using Amazon Basics NiMh batteries in everything else and so far they have been okay. I will never buy another alkaline if I can help it, and if forced to it would be an Energizer.

[@chestersedc]

Nice choice with Eneloop and Amazon Basics NiMh batteries! I am trying to avoid alkalines as well. Thanks for watching.

[@NextNate03]

Here's the thing about leak proof batteries. I never seen a battery that is advertised to be leak proof, even when they are either leak proof or resistance. It is still a good video.

[@hugh007]

Decades ago, before popular 'no mercury' alkalines, the batteries said leak proof or the company would replace the device.

[@oxxnarrdflame8865]

Excellent info. Thanks

[@chestersedc]

Glad you found the information helpful! Thanks for watching.

[@garyk4017]

Two of my approximately 30-year-old Mini Maglites were destroyed in the past couple years by leaking alkaline batteries. The batteries got stuck in the flashlight tubes so tightly that I couldn't remove them. I now use Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries when I need a single-use battery that won't leak. I've used them in my Canon IS binoculars for over 20 years, because ruining a device that costs several hundred dollars with leaking alkaline batteries was not an option. I wish I had done the same with my less expensive Mini Maglites before it was too late.

[@chestersedc]

That's unfortunate to hear about your Mini Maglites! It's great that you found a solution with the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries. Prevention is always better than dealing with the aftermath of leaking batteries.

[@rickcurtis2983]

Around here, we call them "duracrap" batteries!

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for watching!

[@vmobile890]

switched from Kirkland and Duracell because leakage before expire date when stores in cool room in device or in package . Using Energizer now and when using in devises seldom used travel bag or many ares of home frequently check battery and come batteries in zip bag attached to device . Tried long life intimate lithium and short lasting compared to standard energizers . Rechargeable basically the same short life but investing on higher amp and quality works much better . Will take advantage in your recommendations also a improved charger .

[@chestersedc]

I appreciate you sharing your battery journey with us. Your insights will help others make informed decisions. Thanks for watching.

[@normandothegreat]

99% of all my wasted electronics due to leaking batteries were caused by Duracell. However, recently, even Energizer Industrial has been leaking as well. I'm sure most are coming off of the same production line in China.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for sharing your experience! It's a shame they don't make them like they used to. I hope you can find some dependable batteries. Thanks for watching.

[@stevem1081]

The best Alkaline batteries I ever used was the Sears Diehard, I still have some from 15+ years ago, still charged and not leaking, I also had good luck with radio shack batteries. But like everyone else is saying, the newer Duracell leaks in the package with years before the date stamped on them. I do 1 of 2 things, either use the energizer lithium or, remove the Alkaline cells and place them in a zip lock bag with the item.

[@chestersedc]

They don't make them like they used to. Thanks for watching!

[@rayrooney4656]

Duracell has always leaked going back to when they were Mallory. They would leak in the display in my camera shop. They became so notorious that they changed their name and started advertising on TV, something that was not common before that time. It saved them, much to everyone's regret. Not mentioned is that alkaline batteries NEED a vent. They can build up incredible pressure under load. Without venting some gas they can burst violently. In most cases they vent without symptoms but bad design or defects can allow liquid to escape, not just gas. I haven't taken batteries apart in years but old Mallory/Duracells used a terrible O-ring that didn't seal well while others used a a flat seal.

[@mikepanchaud1]

Totally agree, Duracell are terrible for leaking, it shows the power of advertising , most people think they are the best. I use Lidl own brand, never had a leak, and power my bike lights for 6 months. Weirdly many years ago (1970s), when they were introduced, they had a leakproof guarantee printed on the packaging. They promised to replace any equipment damaged! What changed? presumably cost saving in production.

[@chestersedc]

It's interesting how perceptions change over time! Thanks for sharing your experience with Lidl batteries.

[@WilliamParmley]

Good presentation, I agree 100%! I've pretty much switched over to Eneloops for most uses. I love the Energizer Ultimate Lithiums but I have one concern for use in flashlights -- because of their flat discharge curve (which is a positive feature for the most part), it's difficult to tell when they are getting close to being depleted. So, one moment you get full output from your flashlight and the next moment it is dead. But they are unparalleled for service in severe temperature conditions.

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for your support and for sharing your experience with different battery types. I am working on more detailed videos overviewing the different battery types. Thanks for watching.

[@WilliamParmley]

@@chestersedc Sounds great, it's an important topic!

[@michaellemon8287]

That is not my experience with Energizer Ultimate Lithiums - their discharge curve is almost flat but not completely flat so a flashlight will not suddenly switch from full power to off. When I used them in a flashlight that normally would last about 2 hours at full power then there was about 10-15 minute period of the light gradually decreasing its output before going completely dead. For me this is enough time to be warned to replace the batteries. It looks similar to NiMH batteries, good enough for me. The worst in this regard are many of the new rechargeable 1.5V lithium batteries that will go from 1.5V to 0 in an instant.

[@WilliamParmley]

@@michaellemon8287 Thanks!

[@berndm9743]

The BIG issue with using Lithium batteries is that they don't work on many electronic devices because they don't have a high enough voltage. Some devices think they are close to being dead since they only produce a nominal 1.2 volts per cell as compared to the Alkalines at 1.5 volts

[@hpjtv]

I think you are referring to nimh and nicad rechargeable batteries at 1.2V. Lithium are 1.5v or 3V. Rechargeable lithium ion are 1.5v or 3.6v.

[@Eduardo_Espinoza]

Durcells are the king of leaks like a "money maker" - mechanic, Ford truck.

[@raymondrak961]

I have had 2 devices ruined by leaking Duracells. Cost over $300. Never again.😢

[@chestersedc]

That's rough. Thanks for watching!

[@gblargg]

I'm going to guess lithium, since they literally have a 10+-year shelf life. NiMH is a close second in my experience. I don't worry about them leaking.

[@chestersedc]

Yes, lithium batteries are the MVP of the battery world, no worries about leaks, they've got your back for a decade or more! Thanks for watching.

[@nightshadefern162]

New in pack single use duracells burst and leaked, had several flashlights and an expensive gps get destroyed by them too- they used to be great batteries but something changed. Will never buy more duracells. Enloops and rechargeable energizers are my go to.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for commenting and watching!

[@barnowl6807]

I was using my Maglite to look under my dash and noticed it getting warm. Before I could get out of the car the light was too hot to hold. I switched it off and removed the batteries. One was smoking from the label getting too hot. These were less than one month old, direct from the store. My Fluke 4-1/2 digit meter indicated one was 1.803 V. The other was 0.241 V. It looks like the hot cell got reverse charged. I buy the 18 cell pack and checked the remaining cells (14). They were all around the same 1.8xxx V except one measuring only 1.233V. So, now we know what happens when the Energizer Ultimate Lithium gets reverse charged. I let you draw your own conclusions. I will now always check the voltage of every cell before use.

[@chestersedc]

That's wild, man! Good thing you caught it in time.

[@fsoiberg]

thank you

[@sebastian6898]

I didn't think manufacturers would put a USB-C port on a AA battery.

[@solarsynapse]

Can be handy, but I don't think worth the added cost and reduced capacity.

[@rosswarren436]

Excellent video. I need batteries that won't leak to power my portable digital recorder. I normally use an external USB rechargeable battery for use when recording, but the recorder needs to have internal batteries to remember the date, time, and to initially power it up before it "sees" and starts using the external battery. So I don't use the internal batteries often, hence I want something I can leave in long term and not have to worry about them leaking and doing damage. Those USB-C rechargeable Lithium Ion batteries seem to fit the bill. I'll be ordering some of the ANVOW soon. Thank you!

[@chestersedc]

I appreciate your feedback and I'm happy to hear that the ANVOW batteries seem like a good fit for your needs. Thank you for your support!

[@NCF8710]

I agree with all of this. There was a time when alkaline cells were first introduced that leakage was unheard of. There was a movement to remove all traces of mercury from alkaline cells. It was about that time leakage became prevalent. I suspect that the trace levels of mercury passivated the cell's steel case and prevented perforation. Many a flashlight and TV remote control were destroyed by these cells. These are disposable cells for disposable devices. I will never use alkaline cells in any device worth more than the cells. An insidious property of alkaline cells is that they can provide power while they are leaking. I noticed that one of my remotes was losing range and needed to be pointed directly at the TV to work. I opened the back to change the cells and found that they had leaked badly, causing damage to the springs and contacts. Rigorous cleaning saved the remote. I replaced the cells with Eveready Ultimate Lithium to prevent this from happening again. I have never seen Eveready Ultimate Lithium or rechargeable NiMH cells leak. These are all I will use for 1.5V applications.

[@DavidJohnstone-hi9kr]

After losing several nice flashlights, which are not sold anymore, I now have the batteries in a plastic bag and only put them in the flashlight when I need the flashlight. Some of the batteries leaked years before the expiration date.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for watching!

[@AlienRelics]

I worked on consumer electronics for several decades. We techs called Duracells, "Duraleak" because so many leak. I've had unused cells well within their date code leak in the package. Costco's batteries are Duracell rebranded and it shows. I've had half a package go bad in the package within a year of purchase.

[@chestersedc]

Appreciate you sharing your insights from your years of experience in consumer electronics. It's always valuable to hear real-world feedback.

[@NMWanderings]

Nice analysis. You should mention though that most LiOn batteries are 3.7v and can't be used in most devices designed for 1.5v alkaline. Also, it's implied that they all have USB C charging ports built in; they don't. I use 14500's and 18650's that I charge outside the flashlights.

[@Bob-1802]

Indeed! And the "AA" format should "always" output 1.5V or close (NiMh=1.2v or Ni-Zn=1.6v or LiOn=1.5v WITH a built-in stepdown converter). Is it the case? I don't know for sure. If not, it is a glaring security issue in the wild.

[@NMWanderings]

No, it's not the case, hence my warning. As mentioned, I have a Soferin AA flashlight that I use a 14500 3.7v battery in, but it is designed for it. But I like the ability to use a normal AA if needed.

[@jazzyjaytee9961]

In household electronics, I've replaced most primary cells with LSD-NiMH cells. Wall clocks, smoke detectors and the ubiquitous emergency (maglite) torch at the front door and the world receiver all get lithium primaries, usually Energizer Lithium. Most of my go-to lights are powered by 18650 Li-ions anyway. All alkaline primaries have been discarded altogether ever since they started to leak in their original packaging after a couple of years. Those pesky alkalines are just a royal PITA.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for sharing

[@westwashere2216]

an expose on Kirkland batteries including timed trials to leakage would be fun and informative, albeit without delay.

[@chestersedc]

I appreciate your input and interest. I think Kirkland batteries are made by Duracell, which could explain your experience. Thanks for watching.

[@davidtotten3042]

Yup, Kirkland are made by Duracell.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for the confirmation.

[@va3ngc]

Duracell is really bad these days. A decade or so they were great. Eveready alkalines appear to be much more robust. Good old zinc-carbide batteries don't leak and they will last for years with charge in them. I don't know if you can buy those anymore. What I need is rechargeable Li-ion 9V batteries. Those are the ones that I am most likely to forget in something and have leak.

[@volodumurkalunyak4651]

There are 2 options for 9V Li-ion, one is 7.4V (2S - just 2 cells in series, with protection board), outher - includes DC-DC that stays always running and boosts 3.7V (in 2.8-4.2V range) up to 9V. I googled "9V li-ion" and it came back with a bunch of local sellers selling one (or both) of those variants. If you wonder if 7.4V is enought - then look at discharge curves of those and standart alkaline 6LR61's.

[@markreynolds5384]

All Alkaline batteries will leak regardless of brand. Battery manufacturers were required to remove mercury more than 25 years ago. The mercury kept hydrogen from building up and causing leaks. If you switch to rechargeable, NiCd or Lithium ion, your leaking problem will vanish.

[@pchris6662]

I’m just adding to the chorus of Duracell haters here, but it’s worth it! I’m an old fart and I remember when they were the best. But in the last few years I’ve had more Duracell batteries leak than I have had just go dead from natural causes and we have banned them from the house. I will buy the generic harbor freight batteries now before I use any Duracells because I’m sick and tired of cleaning that darn white crust from the inside of my electronics. That company deserves to go bankrupt for all the damage they have done to my stuff over the past few years.

[@user-ro4sl6ll1v]

bought some rechargable li-ion batteries. wanted to use them in an am radio,but the built in circuitry causes too much radio interference.

[@chestersedc]

I'm sorry they didn't work for your radio. Were you able to find a battery that worked? Thanks for watching.

[@theclearsounds3911]

I was WONDERING if the DC-DC converters in those batteries would interfere with things like radios and wireless microphones. Thanks for giving me the answer.

[@CineWeekly]

I just had 2 new Eneloops leak so they aren't 100% immune. But I also have 20 Eneloops that have never had an issue since I bought them 15 years ago.

[@meisievannancy]

Rechargeable 9v batteries with an internal charger using a cell phone charger are amazing too.

[@jessejames7757]

That was a big problem in the 1960s but the astronuts got lucky and those batteries work perfect in a extreme vacuum with extreme temperature changes.

[@chestersedc]

It's amazing how far technology has come since the 1960s! Thanks for commenting and watching.

[@Knife_Collector]

I have saw batteries new in the packs, on the racks at the store that had leaked and corroded over.

[@chestersedc]

Those batteries were definitely giving off some negative energy!

[@TheBtrain99]

Alkaline has its place. Not in high drain devices though, and certainly not in battery compartments that may be in outdoor conditions. They still persist, due to low short term costs, convenience, and not wanting to put pricy cells in every device. All that said, i feel like a dedicated charger for lithium is better than the usb option. Even the usb ones could be made to have a charging dock. Just easier and better than having multiple batteries needing multiple cables, when many already have tons of cables for their devices plugged in.

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for sharing your insights on battery choices and chargers. It's great to have a community where we can discuss and learn from each other's experiences.

[@christopherleubner6633]

Use energizer aa lithium for stuff that is seldom used but must work when needed such as an emergency radio, nuclear survey meter, or phone charger of last resort. The real value of these is insurance more than anything else.❤

[@chestersedc]

Always need to have reliable batteries for emergency gear. Thanks for watching!

[@philbowser578]

Duracells don’t even need to be dead OR beyond date code. I had a pair of AAs that leaked in an exterior temperatue sensor that wasn’t even in service 9 months. Batteries still measured over 1.5V but were still leaking. Not the first time I have experienced it with Duracell either. Amazon cheapies fare much better. Lithium probably best for hot / cold extremes…

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for watching!

[@Random_4400]

Or alternatively get a proper flashlight like ones that use a 18650 or 21700 cell and have USB-C charging on-board, maglights are cool and all but there are better options out there if you want a proper flashlight.

[@kwd57]

I have also made the switch years ago like you did, but I have had some problems where some batteries are slightly larger in diameter and will not fit in some of my devices and also around the positive tip is surrounded by plastic and mot metal has caused connection problems.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for sharing your experiences. Some brands of NiMH definitely can be a bit bigger. I've had the most luck with Eneloop batteries fitting best. Thanks for watching!

[@JonasRosenven]

Mix baking soda with a little bit of water and use a q-tip to apply it to the place where the battery has leaked. Vinegar works too. Just dry it off with a paper towel at the end.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for sharing! I'll keep this hack in mind for any future battery mishaps.

[@The-Fat-Kid]

All the leaking batteries that I pulled out of my various devices over the past couple of years have been Duracell. Even the cheepo no name batteries haven’t leaked even when they have been dead for years. Some of the Duracell weren't in for more than a few months. When contacting Duracell about a ruined Maglite they offered to send me a brand new $2.00 flashlight to replace it. There are counterfeit Duracells out there and they may be better than the original's. I don’t know but I know that I won’t buy Duracell anymore.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for watching.

[@ivonedev9449]

I’ve had really bad experiences with Energizer alkaline leaking, so I don’t use them when I can help it. Sadly most other name brands seem to be just as bad. But some off brands like AC Delco seem less leaky to me.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for sharing your experience! It's always helpful to hear about different brands and their performance.

[@nirfz]

Usecase dependend: I use Lithium batteries for things that sit long and aren't used often, as they will still be good after years (And not leak) For things i use that empty the battery in "normal" timeframes i tend to use NiMh ones, as they are inexpensive and can be recycled. Li-ion may be able to store more energy in the same size, and even loose less unused over time, but they are more a firehazard than the other choices, and at the moment still not really recyclable. (don't get me wrong, they get collected, but not yet recycled) So their impact on the envirement (if we inclunde not just the life but also the production and recycling) at the moment is not better than any of the other recharchables in my opinion.

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for sharing your insights on battery choices and their environmental impact. It's important to consider all aspects when making these decisions.

[@Davidian1024]

Great video. Your NiMH charger looks identical to mine. But mine is black. I'd say alkaline batteries are nearly obsolete at this point. The risk of them leaking alone makes me never want to put them in anything of any significant value. All the devices we use in my household that need AAA or AA batteries are running on NiMH cells. I did have to buy some C cells for a lantern a year or so ago, but that's only because I can't really justify having a stock of anything larger than AA. Beyond that, I rarely ever buy batteries anymore. The only complication with rechargeables, is probably remembering to keep a few charging. I now have so many AAAs and AAs in service that I always keep a few on the charger. Whenever I need to change batteries, which isn't often, I just swap with what's charging. Haven't tried those newer lithium ion batteries yet. Just haven't needed them. But, maybe I'll give them a try next time I need to replace one ore more NiMH cells. But, I don't see that happening any time soon.

[@chestersedc]

@Davidian1024 Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I love that charger, had it for 20+ years and it's still going. I used NiMH batteries for my old Nikon Coolpix, that ate AA batteries. The new low-self-discharge NiMH batteries were a game changer for me. For C and D cells, they make plastic battery spacers that you put one or more AA batteries into. Here are some if you'd like to check them out: amzn.to/4anVL9G. I use these, so I only need to have AA batteries around the house. Disclosure: This comment includes an Amazon affiliate link, which means if you click on it and make a purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support my channel and allows me to continue making content for you. I appreciate your support!

[@stevewalters6003]

The Energizer Ultimate Lithiums are great batteries for low drain devices such as remote controls, clocks and transistor radios that may only require a battery change once a year or so. Sadly they have doubled in price in the past two years with inflation. For high drain devices like flashlights and digitally tuned portable radios or anything that gets frequent use, Eneloops or other NiMh rechargeable are the way to go.

[@Davidian1024]

@@chestersedc I did not know about the C/D spacers. That's really good to know. Very much appreciated.

[@chestersedc]

NP

[@tonymanero5544]

In my experience: Duracell and Costco Gold AA and AAA leaked regularly. Costco now Silver, but I only used on devices that are used regularly, so they drain from usage and replaced. For devices with low usage, like a remote TV that isn’t watched regularly, I’ve bite $ bullet and bought Eveready Lithium. My Fuji and other Japanese batteries from 10-15 years haven’t leaked. I’m trying Panasonic on lightly used devices. Devices that are regularly used, seem ok since they are replaced often before they leak from non-used. Duracell don’t seem worth the extra money when they leak frequently ; I bet Duracell is owned by a VC company that buys and sells companies and is spread eagle in profit maximization and low cost, trading on a quality brand from years ago to trash it today for short term profit.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for watching!

[@Funkybulb]

When I was a kid Used to recharge those Duracell batteries like 6 times. Using same home made solar trickle charger on them todays duracell they woukd not hold up and end up leaking I still have 30 year old Duracell in my Analog Test meter. it been recharged once and still no leskage. and these older batteries would even out power the modern Duraleak

[@nilo70]

They sold out to people who wanted maximum profit and minimum costs

[@chestersedc]

It's unfortunate when companies prioritize profit over quality.

[@johngoodin3445]

Would you recommend soaking a flashlight in white vinegar if it's extremely corroded? It's my understanding that apple cider vinegar is a weak acid. And both of them don't leave any residues. I've seen cleaning vinegar in stores, is it the same thing as white?

[@chestersedc]

Thank you for your question! Soaking the flashlight in white vinegar could damage the electronics. If you can remove the springs or parts without electronics, soaking might work, but I wouldn't recommend it. Cleaning vinegar is a stronger version of white vinegar. Removing the crust is an exercise in patience. Good luck.

[@vevenaneathna]

they make lifepo4 batteries that are in the AA/AAA form factor now. i got mine from soshine. they are exactly double the voltage of regular alkalines and have about 70% the capacity as alkaline. i charge mine with a variable power supply. the lithium ones you showed only have about 15-20% the capacity of alkaline and have weird oscillation behavior due to the voltage circuit inside. o and they dont leak lol. you either have to use a spacer or get smart with rewiring the battery contacts though.

[@chestersedc]

I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge about these batteries. It's great to learn from each other in the community.

[@jimmybrad156]

14500 for aa, 10440 for aaa. Can use a bolt.

[@georgecurtis6463]

Well, i may be the odd one out but i have found chinese batteres dont tend to leak. I also use harbor freight batteries as they seem to not leak also. Basically stopped using others thst leak as soon as you start using them. Also i replace all batteries in the spring yearly.

[@chestersedc]

Thanks for the tip! Now I just have to remember to replace the batteries. 🤔

[@jeffreypage1361]

Can we please put the Ni-MH batteries with built-in chargers in the historical bin of "tech that should have never existed?" The charging circuit takes up internal space, limiting capacity. And, when the cell inevitably fails, it adds to e-waste.