Ender 3 S1 - The Silence of The Fans

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Just to clear something up about the 150C diode at 3:30 I was using a 5V noctua fan instead of a 12V noctua fan at first, so it was overloaded to 480%. After installing the correct 12v fan, it is now running at 36 C.

[@Doyle69]

Great to know this, the temp put me off doing it :P

[@AznDumbum]

Oww wow... Ok Zener diode here I come!

[@the_edge_of_time]

You probably should update the links above. Noctua as atleast two 200x30mm 12 volt fans. One a using a four pin connector and the other a three pin.

[@MACCLIPS-r5f]

So its save to do i dont need a stepper ?

[@reassor]

5w diode is crazy hot. Tried 2 in parallel same... link the diode parameters you used to get 36c

[@ScottYuJan]

that intro deserves an Oscar 😂

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah. Oh hey, I just realized it's Yu! 👋

[@skunkprints7952]

You are my hero man. I sincerely appreciate this fresh approach to the world of 3d printing!

[@BeyondBeleaf]

I couldn’t say this better myself! He is what this community needs!!

[@mrt1426]

The opening of this video had me in tears. New to the channel, genius work my friend.

[@AceTheIdot]

if i buy a 24v 40mm noctua fan for the extruder can i just wire it up to positive and negative? or do i still have to solder in a resistor

[@Janovich]

Yes correct

[@RichardBronosky]

Great work! I'm definitely doing this to my Two Trees Sapphire Plus. It's pretty quiet except for the fans. Right now I'm working on my filament dry storage. Fan upgrades are next.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I want a cube printer! All mine are bed slingers, except for a Voxelab Aries, which isn't very moddable

[@SpiralDogma1990]

Finally, someone who cuts out the fan shields. Those create so much turbulence. Just removing them makes a HUGE difference.

[@wakeupgeoff]

Mate I had a good laugh at the gags in this vid. Looking to upgrade my S1 Pro, Cheers!

[@woodcat7180]

And I was told putting 120mm fans on my E3v2 was an overkill. Great intro btw.

[@907-q7u]

I subscribe to A LOT of channels... Nathan, you are so damn awesome, you're by faaar my favorite. You add just the right amount of humor when I'm not expecting it. Lol

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Thank you, thank you. Thank you very much.

[@satibel]

if you have pwm control, you can set the max duty cycle to 50% and add a capacitor in parallel to the fan to get 12V instead of using a zener which will get toasty.

[@adamix157]

Good advice, but the cap needs to be big enough ;)

[@Krulay]

First channel that immediately has been "Patreon"-ed by me. Keep up the good Ender3 S1 (short ESI) content, and developing "that fann" of yours. :D PS.: Please, never be normal.... thnks

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Thanks Krulay! I will be making a couple different versions of that fan shroud, 40x20 noctua, 5015 blower, 120mm blower, am I missing anything?

[@Krulay]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I just try to keep up with you, ordering all the necessary equipment to be your gunnie pig guy relating to ESIs :D I will use ASA to print them, 'cause of its UV resistance. The first one is already printed as a tryout from PLA, one not the stl would be nice if orinted in the printing position. My dream is to make a 12cm Noctua into a cooler in the head (what a nonsense, but fun idea), and also thinking about making a cooling solution, where there is a big cooler is relatively far away from the head, which will be cooled thru a tube. I dont know if pressure and frictions are allowing it, but i like the idea of using something powerful and deliver its stream into the tiny head. A Tube-fun on KZbin .... See? :D Man i like your style... I hope/wish you will have the same rising viewcount as 'I did a thing' has since i get to know him. ;)

[@fornoobs990]

Thanks for the work you put into this. I can now print in peace! One thing I discovered was that on my noctua fans (A4x20 and A4x10) the red wire is +12V, not yellow as mentioned. I passed on making a separate cable so maybe thats why.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

That is very interesting! Maybe on the 3 on versions is different? I always get the 4 pin versions

[@fornoobs990]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Yea I looked it up on the noctua page and found this noctua.at/pub/media/wysiwyg/faqs/noctua_pin_configuration_12v_fans.png

[@phill7487]

That intro was gold

[@diy_wizard]

Great video! I might think of this when I upgrade from my old ender 3 v2 to a S1, but although your explaination ist grear, it's a whole bunch of work. Especially cutting of the buttom seems like a huge step for me. But a very great video, I loved the beginning :D

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Some people just replace the stock fans with quieter versions that are the same size. That is the "smart" way to do it.

[@Narsissy]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Could you drop a link to some?

[@wrxsubaru02]

5:50 LOL You're underrated. I just subscribed.

[@MrRfries]

I'm going to try one of these fans on my OctoPI. I loved the intro!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Nice, there are 5V versions that you can plug directly in to the Raspberry pi either through USB or on the I/O pins

[@TechAmbr]

Agreed! Adding a bunch of brown to my Ender 3 was one of the best mods I've done to it.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I heard noctua is coming out with some 24v fans for the 3d printing market. It's gonna be sweet!

[@TechAmbr]

@@NathanBuildsRobots That would simplify things *so much* Buck converters are cheap, but less wires are always welcome!

[@ashvanes484]

ok this intro is awesome; to add, this is all more than I am able to do to a printer, but it's really cool to see. I am pretty keen on the Ender S1 and it might be my 2nd printer.. I am still learning on my Ender 3 that we just got fully set up

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Thanks! I wish manufacturers would do more with silent fans. I like a quiet machine. It's doubly important for me because it makes it easier to film and record audio when the fans aren't so loud

[@mrmechano]

Noctua are expensive, the stock fans powered at 12-15v are sufficient. I didn't buy any particular fan and used the stock one with dc dc step down mini bucks. I've the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and now it's silent without any particular mods, simply I've used Mini 360 bucks on the stock PSU and mainboard fans that I've choosen from 12-15v till obtain low noise and still good airflow. And opened with a cupsaw the power supply cover to have more air flow. On the hot end I've used a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm achieved for 21 db. I don't need any other special mods, now my Ender 3 print's well and has very low noise.

[@davidjernigan8161]

For cutting the metal you could get diamond cutoff wheels from harbor freight to use with a dremel.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Cutoff Wheels are a bit tough to cut curves with, but yeah it could be done. Speaking of better tools for the job, I just tried out a 400 watt laser today that would have cut right through this in about 10 seconds. I'll be going back for seconds and making a video about it!

[@KegRaider]

worthy of a sub, thanks for the info mate.

[@moulinherve8374]

Apart from the big resonance of the metal body and the Y motor, it is a good machine. The big fan Noctua eliminates no noise.. But after some printing problems, I discovered a difference of 1mm in horizontal on the X axis. So it is to be monitored and corrected for new users. On your sprite cooling fixture, the fan for the Hot-End looks the same as the standard one? The loudest is the small 30 mm near the CR-Touch

[@Zane65205]

Another great video! I think my ender 3 S1 is too precious to me to do a silent fan mod. I am quite the noob at modding and I don't really want to risk breaking it. But I still love the mod!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Is like to make those adapters and sell them. Do you think $15 for a 2 pack is reasonable?

[@JoeSchmoe24]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I would pay that.

[@WasNiksIsNiksWordtNiks]

@@NathanBuildsRobots very

[@giraffehunter2848]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I would be very interested

[@rsunghun]

@@NathanBuildsRobots my ender 3 s1 has arrived few days ago and I wish you sell them.

[@angelherrera4855]

for the buck converter is there somewhere you can have me look for a better idea on how to get it done. i get that you install it right off the psu just curious how. i have not popped mine open yet so haven't a clue. parts are in the mail because jesus is that psu fan driving me crazy.

[@aggarwaldipesh]

"If you go blind, you wouldn't be able to watch my videos anymore" 😂😂😂😂 Great content man. Keep up the great work.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Somewhat of a recurring joke on my channel, that I'm more worried about my view count than your safety 😆 But really, staying safe is more important. So take your time and protect yourself!

[@AndehX]

those blowtorch segments always crack me up haha

[@Lurker1222]

A: that intro is cinematic art. B: I did the notcua fan mod to my Fokoos Odin 5 and haven't looked back.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Nice… the giant fan looks awesome and does a great job of cooling things with virtually no noise. Best thing is when you flip your printer on and second guess if you forgot to plug it in or broke it because you don’t hear a thing!

[@Lurker1222]

@@NathanBuildsRobots My printer has an annoying *BEEEEEEP* Every time you turn it on. I'm so OCD about the noise that I got some thick foam double sided tape and covered the little black speaker on the board haha.

[@broossie7902]

These video's are very helpful. Subscribed.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I'm here to help!

[@evFPV]

I am keeping the hotend fan (I cut the stl in mesh mixer and kept only the heatbreak fan). I will be using a gelid fan instead of the noctua... they are 50% cheaper. I will receive it tomorrow, so I will check how it performs...

[@EmptyPocketProductions]

Just subbed, What IC was that - the hot one. So the viewers can opt to put a heatsink on there too. THanks

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

the one that was in the wire harness was super hot because I was using the wrong size fan

[@EmptyPocketProductions]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I mean that hot one on the mainboard

[@LordHonkInc]

I've been using a 40x20 12V noctua for hotend cooling and a 120mm beQuiet (undervolted to 5V) in a custom electronics case and have had zero problems since I've installed them; the coldend has pretty much the same temp as stock (measured by hand) and the raspberry pi and motherboard run at around 35 celsius during prints (measured by klipper firmware). Should get to replacing the stock blower sometime, but procrastination is a strict mistress xD I've heard the 40x10 noctua is a bit underpowered, cooling-wise, though I haven't verified that claim myself; I just bought the 40x20 since the only good reason for the 10mm thin one is that it's a drop-in replacement for the stock mount (size-wise; you still have to regulate the voltage). Love the detailed walkthrough, though I personally would recommend using a second DC-DC buck converter instead of the zener. Not that it doesn't work - quite evidently it does - but I just don't like the thought of a passive component just toasting away in a cable somewhere. Again, just a personal recommendation and not a "don't do that" :)

[@doestilvoort1]

@LordHonklnc Where did you use the 120mm fan?

[@cartaphyllus5086]

I’d love to see this setup with a 5015 blower fan, I literally have like 6 extra just laying around haha

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I got you covered www.patreon.com/posts/62368547

[@JacobTech-3567]

Have you let prints run for a long time using this setup? I ask because I have a similar setup (slightly different design) using 2x 4020 Sunon Maglev axial fans (One for hotend and one for part cooling), and heat creep inevitably sets in for any print longer than 60 mins in duration. Upon further reading Noctua NF-A4X10 has a lower CFM than the Sunon fan. However, the Noctua provides higher static pressure. Can you advise please? Great video as always Nathan.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I didn't have any issues. The way I designed this it provides much more cooling than some others I have looked at. The fan recirculates air against the parts its up against, in addition to pushing air through the heatsink. I've since swapped the hotend over to using an entirely different printhead (Microswiss NG)

[@JacobTech-3567]

​ @NathanBuildsRobots I'll try a few setups. Thanks for your reply.

[@MichaelWatersJ]

The intro is like the adult swim version of CNC kitchen. I love it.

[@gasparigi]

Ender 3 V2 had that problem, if you turn off part cooling the mainboard fan is also turned off. Is that the case with S1?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I'm not sure, but it seems like they carried over some of the design flaws from the Ender 3, so it wouldn't surprise me. The motherboard fan is constantly on unless you unplug the machine, which is really annoying to me.

[@djDuff86]

replacing fans is good idea. I would go for 24V (not 12V) as it is easier/faster to install thought a bit more expensive option.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah, I have trouble finding high quality silent 24v fans. I wish Noctua would make some.

[@danishlalahero]

@@NathanBuildsRobots is the psu fan also 12v on an s1? In that case, Aerocool makes a 12v 200mm fan with 18dBa noise level. If I wasn't receiving a 60mm and 40mm today for psu and motherboard, I would have bought that instead, after seeing your video...

[@martinsaur8819]

maybe you could show a picture of the sprite mother board for the wiring? I don't get how you get 3 fans at the end (if you keep the original one on the left side

[@IsraelMolina1997]

You have a unique styleee! Nice videeo! Saludos desde Chile. (sorry my english haha)

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes, Machu Pichu!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Oh shit. Machu Pichu is in Peru! Go Chileeee!! 🇨🇱 🌶 🇨🇱 🌶

[@MrKillerHobbes]

lol that intro, first time on your channel. insta sub

[@007craft]

I'm a bit confused here. You replaced the bottom motherboard fan and power supply fan with 1 big fan situated in the center at the bottom? I mean that would explain why the temperature was higher on the motherboard because you're no longer blowing air directly on top of it. But what Im confused about the most here is the actual reduction in sound for all this work? Judging by your graph, it looks like this new setup is even louder than the stock fans at 100%. Your chart doesnt show fan speed % for stock fans, so I assume that those bars are indicating the stock fans at 100%? How loud is the printer when stock fans are at 30% vs the new fans?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Good questions, unfortunately I can't answer with real data since my printer is already modified, but I can answer with how I "feel" about it. With the part cooling fan off using the old setup, it was only 2-3 dB quieter since the rest of the fans are quite loud. With the new fan at 100% it is providing about 4x more part cooling power than the stock setup, so while it is louder, it is also providing better cooling and print quality. With the fan set to ~20% I can't hear it at all and the part cooling is as good or better than the stock setup at 100%. Plus now I have the option to crank up the fans to get really good 75 degree overhang performance if I need it.

[@007craft]

@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for clarifying that. So it seems this is more of cooling mod to achieve better preformance rather than a sound reducing/slitent mod. I'm just building an enclosure now for my s1 and planning out everything and was wondering if I should do this setup, but it was throwing a wrench in my design as it required extra bottom clearance for the big fan and that means a taller case and more plexiglass I would need. I think I'll skip the bottom upgrades, but may end up doing the extruder fan upgrade if I find heat being a problem down the line.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@007craft I am also testing a version with a 40mm noctua fan as the cooling fan. I will release that model as a free download on my patreon/thingiverse on the 28th

[@keithkolmos5933]

Wow. I can't believe how quiet this makes my Ender 3 S1. Nathan you are AWESOME. Thank you so much. I do have a question for you though.......I notice when I am printing...if I have a light plugged into the same surge strip, I see flicker in the light. Do I need a better surge strip? A better power supply in the printer? Or should I get a UPS to try and isolate the conducted emissions coming off the printer?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

It's common for LED lights to be very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. So I would say its normal, as long as you are not overloading it. Most surge stops are good for over 800 watts. I'm glad the mods helped!

[@crosbyhayton]

Hi, probably too late to help, but my Ender 3 S1 did this because the switchable PSU was set to 240v from the factory. I flipped the switch to 120v, and the flickering went away.

[@asilgado]

Fantastic video, thank you very much! Why don't you put one (or two) buck converter(s) from 24v to 12v between the motherboard and the wire into the case?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I figured the always on approach is more failsafe than running it through the motherboard. There might be cases where the PSU is on and drawing lots of power, but the motherboard fan is off (like when heating up the bed at the start of a print).

[@VicHaunter]

Did you created at the end the version with 2 5015? i am interested in thankyou

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I have not yet. I'm working on a new breakout board PCB for the Ender 3 S1, I'll be designing some new fan mounts for that soon.

[@martinsaur8819]

nice video! going for it asap, do you keep the fan on the left side of the sprite? I don't understand where to plug 2 fan if you do keep the one on the left could you explain that to me? my English isn't that good so I might not have understood something in the video! good job anyway!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes, you can remove the left side fan. Also, if you join the discord you can ask about other fan mods for the hotend. There are some good options out there that aren’t by me

[@3dprint4u]

That new mount for fans looks great, i saw u swapped the heaterblock and maybe even heatbreak. What are u running?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I did the install here. Though if I were to do it again I'd use the slice engineering heatbreak, whi h should fit in without using a hacksaw. And if I wanted to do it the easiest way, I'd use the slice heatbreak and a mk8 CHT or stock nozzle, and keep the old heater block. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6OsiqmehKx0qZY

[@kukindal]

Will a 1W Zenner diode work instead of a 5W like you’re using? My NF-A4x20 Noctua fan has a max input power of 0.6W.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Probably, I just like using the larger ones because they run slightly cooler

[@randomadventures125]

Really good video and I already started with the part cooling fan and already saw some huge improvements but my question is what did you do with the old cooling fan for the hot end did you just leave it in there unplugged or what happened with that

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I removed it so it doesn't impede the airflow, but you could probably leave it in there. If i left it in, I would consider running it and the noctua fan at 12v in parallel, with the 2nd noctua flow direction reversed so they arent fighting, if you catch my drift.

[@jamesdodson5554]

Heyo! I'm trying to do this and sorry I'm slow but at one point you seem to be using a 40x20 noctua and then at the end it looks like a 40x10? Which one are you using for the hot end cooling? Also are you leaving the original fan located on the left side of the extruder assembly?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Either will work. The 40x20 fan I later realized was a 5 volt variant, so it was drawing too much current. I took out the original mini fan

[@JavelinD]

Came for the noctua on the S1 mod. Stayed for that into.

[@zekeq1523]

lmao that intro was great! thanks for the tutorial too

[@fuglong]

Absolutely love the intro lol

[@wovenskin]

loving these mod videos!

[@817abn]

I added just the parts fan only version and I'm having issues with the fan not coming on/ not coming on full power because of the extruder motor. Did u have this problem? I'm using the fan from your parts list

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes I had that issue. Which version are you using? The issue was documented in the 5015, but I posted a fixed version. Is it the 4020 blower? I might need to modify that one too, moving the fan upwards

[@brandonpinkney880]

I am likely just going to replace each fan directly for the power supply and motherboard to start. I got a screencap of the motherboard fan (CHA6024RL-15B 24V 0.10A), but not the power supply fan. If you still have it kicking around, can you let me know what part it is? Thanks!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I haven't looked at my S1 in a while, been tied up getting a couple reviews made. But I will be looking at my S1 hopefully in a couple weeks and I can check.

[@AlexisArseneault]

This might be kind of a stupid question, but where do you plug the wires for the hotend/part cooling, cause even if I remove the original part cooling fan, one of the ports is still occupied?

[@IndrekPajuste]

Hi, from the video it seems that you're controlling the hotend fan speed somehow. But as I understand, only the part cooling fan has pwm control. Can you elaborate on this?

[@khoiNguyen-ws7wc]

Hi nathan I saw picture : yellow wire ( from noctua fan) connect to diode. Is it right? Yellow wire of noctua control speed.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Hi Khoi, in my experience with Noctua fans, yellow is positive, black is ground. Blue/green are PWM wires. Other manufacturers assign yellow to PWM sometimes. Check out this article by Noctua: noctua.at/en/what-pin-configuration-do-noctua-products-use

[@jw7641]

Why is there smoke coming out of the hole near the main board at 6:08? Edit: it might just be a bit of glue string.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah exactly. Pretty sure it’s just some hot glue strands

[@onesadtech]

Great overview of what goes into this modification! I just installed a Sprite Pro kit on my V2 so I'm not sure if the same fans will work, but I want to figure out something eventually cause the Sprite hotend is actually louder than the V2 one.

[@b3owu1f]

The link on Thingiverse for the feet.. to buy the squash balls.. goes to an M2 screw set instead. Might need to update that. What size squash balls did you use?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Squash balls should all be the same size. You want the softest ones, which should be double yellow dot.

[@b3owu1f]

When I do amazon search get all sorts of squash balls and sizes. A link to one you know fits and works well would be better.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I have purchased these for 4 of my printers, works every time! amzn.to/3tIpG8K (affiliate link)

[@TBL_stevennelson]

Thanks for such a good video.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Thanks for putting it in the basket!

[@BarrettAnderies]

Could you share your slicer settings (printer, material and profile)? The one included for the Ender 3 with PrusaSlicer have been terrible on my Ender 3 S1.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes, slicer settings can be found at the bottom of the page: www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/testing/ender3s1 The main issue with the stock profile is 0.8mm retractions, I turned it up to 1.2mm and have been getting excellent results

[@BarrettAnderies]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks! Turns out I was using an older version of PrusaSlicer that didn't have the S1 profile.

[@moulinherve8374]

Incredible, I did the editing with the A20FLX 12v noctua, at the start I thought that the ender did not work... Only for the head, but the zener diodes... Kind of freak me out. Can we mount a Noctua 40x40x10 to cool the heating block instead of the existing one? Thank you for your good advice.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I like to use 5015 blower fans for part cooling, and noctua 40x10 for cooking the hotend heatsink

[@MarlboroM1]

Yes, zener is not good idea😀 But, my solution is configuring firmware, in firmware you can change PWM from 255 to 127 and this is in output 12V..

[@williamwiese9963]

Awesome video! I just subbed.🤘 Love nocta fans on my PC looking to get an ender S1 and do this.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Nice. Good luck and be careful!

[@Mr_Zisky]

How do I validate that my hotend is cooled enough (without termocamera)? (I want to install different fans, not the same as you did)

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

As long as you don't have any issues with the printer clogging or underextruding, you're fine. I think all metal heatbreaks are better at insulating the hot and cold parts, so I can get away with using a smaller fan.

[@Sticknmove77]

I attempted to install the buck converter to the power supply but got paranoid and stopped. How did you power your converter? It doesn't look like it's connected to the PSU in the vid. Thanks!

[@pimmen85]

i see substansial "wobbling" of the whole printer i i go even a little bit fast, are you compensation the softer/higher feet with slow print speed?

[@jpsfish5966]

These get better and better each time. I just put one of these bad boys on my Aquila and a SKR Mini 3.0. Too bad nothing happened when I turned it on…not sure what I did wrong yet.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

A multimeter is great for checking to see if your wires are done correctly, if the fan is seeing 12v it will turn on! Just remember , positive to yellow, negative to black.

[@jpsfish5966]

Thanks. I just got a multimeter and have yet to try it out. I don’t think the fan is the issue. They don’t boot up with the board on the 3.0. The stock board fried when the hot end hit the bed. So both the fan and the board are new. This should be a drop in for the Aquila X2 but nothing powered up. I probably did something wrong. But hey I didn’t see sparks or smoke, so any crash you can walk away from right?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@jpsfish5966Damm, how did you run the hotend into the bed? That shouldn't be possible!

[@DursunX]

im here for the Lamb's reference... oh and i also own noisey beasts

[@NicksStuff]

I don't get the graph at 7:43 What does fans at 100% mean? Is that just the part cooling fan or the others too? Why is it noisier than stock?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

All fans are turned on for those tests. The 100% setting is louder than stock, but it is moving about 5-10x more air. A fair comparison in terms of equivalent part cooling performance is stock vs 10% on new fans.

[@NicksStuff]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks

[@satoshipokemon8411]

Can i use this also for the "3 S1 PRO" ? Edit: yes is also working for s1 Pro

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Thanks for beta testing. I just got a pro and was going to try this too

[@satoshipokemon8411]

@@NathanBuildsRobots i did remix you part with another one, so i got a dual duct for a single 5015 and a 4020 fan both fans are 24 volts so no needs for doing voltage conversions and the sunon fan is really silent and cheap while blowing more air than the expensive noctua ones. look for the mf40202v2-1000u-a99 there is also 1 variant thats a little better on airflow but also little louder

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@satoshipokemon8411 nice. I think I bought a couple 24v Sunons to try out. Only annoying thing is they aren't on Amazon Prime

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@satoshipokemon8411 The 2 models I bought: amzn.to/3H2iIBd amzn.to/3x7WJUR

[@satoshipokemon8411]

@@NathanBuildsRobots already excited about what you will do with them. by the way, 3s1 pro auto level/mesh is somehow bugged if you have problems just reset the printer and use manual level 🥲. wasted hours trying to figure out whats wrong 😂 butt seems some firmware bug and no newer fw available till now

[@mr.hammer1507]

I read that you planning on doing a mod with the 40x40 noctua as part cooling as well, is the 40x20mm noctua giving enough airflow, is not their 60mm 12v fan better option for the part cooling?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes, I'll be releasing that next week along with an announcement for some other upgrades in a video. The 40x20 is looking like it works well up to 45 degrees of overhang. More powerful fans will always be better, but at some point, for cooling smaller areas, static pressure and airspeed is more important than absolute fan size

[@mr.hammer1507]

​@@NathanBuildsRobots I agree on that one, it's always a struggle between efficiency and noise level, where to set the line. I have currently installed this mod in the video above, and so far I can say it delivers good results (but noise level is high, when on 100%), therefore it would be really interesting with some comparison between them, 40mm blower fan vs 40mm noctua etc. :)

[@Serbo-Greek]

The sound that my S1 pro makes is crazy. Just the fans. I need to replace them. I would like to see another video for the pro version, maybe more updated with links to buy the thinks we need. That would be awsome.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

The fan replacement process should be very similar for the Pro, but I may do another episode on S1 Pro fan replacement. It won't be out until next month, but it should be interesting. At higher speeds the Y axis on my Pro is loud compared to the normal S1, almost to the point where the fan noise doesnt matter.

[@Serbo-Greek]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you for your work! I will wait, and I will share the video in this facebook group that are s1/s1 pro owners only. This would be very helpful. (P.S. if possible, try with less crazy thing, cutting the bottom so mutch and cutting original cables, are very scary things to see)

[@_nom_]

Are we able to get the raw pcb sent to us from China? Your site doesn't ship globally, and the price of coming from the US would be a lot

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Hi Nom, I am operating more like a niche product development firm, where I offer high quality goods that are professionally assembled and tested. The proceeds go towards paying off development costs and funding more innovative products. I am in contact with distributors that may be able to offer discounts and local shipping rates once I enter full-rate production in December.

[@thad8919]

When I was cutting out the hole for the 200mm fan my bottom panel got all mangled, it’s beyond fixing, what should I do?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

You didn't need that panel anyways 🙃 Personally, I would hammer it back flat and make it work

[@Wiikendzgoodmix]

Would you mind sharing all youre retraction settings? Cant seem to get rid of stringing on my stock S1..

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I use 1.2mm of retraction and get good results. I go over how I set up my print profiles in Prusaslicer on my website: www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/testing/ender3s1

[@ydooWoody1]

Assuming one was going for silent replacement rather than overkill super-cool on the PSU, off-hand, what are the fan dimensions for direct brown fan replacement?

[@sam113101]

I believe it's a 60 mm fan.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yeah, I think it’s a 6010 fan

[@hakopa_nt]

Have you had any experience with fans from Noiseblocker as a good alternative?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I just looked them up, they sound interesting. Some reviews said they failed early and had poor airflow. I think they will have a hard time outperforming the Noctua fans. Noctua has put a ton of R&D into making the best products and they certainly have a good reputation.

[@Uni-qk5tx]

Hi Im wondering why your Motherboard and Stepper drivers has increased. You only opened the case and used bigger heat sinks and still uses the same fan right? Why does this lead to higher temperatures?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

The old motherboard fan was placed directly above the motherboard, so it directed a lot of cooling air right onto it. With my current setup, the motherboard is just in the exhaust path of the big fan. So not as direct airflow. Also I noticed that some prints were done on PLA and some were done with PETG. PETG runs at higher temperatures, and draws more current, so everything on the motherboard gets hotter. These are not research grade publications with all variables controlled as well as they could be. Just my modding, ramblings, and personal anecdotal evidence.

[@Uni-qk5tx]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Ah I didnt know that u got rid of the motherboard fan. I gonna keep it. Should I mind the maximum power of the power supply or can I connect without problems a new Power supply fan and a rasperry Pi?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@Uni-qk5tx To be honest, I'm not sure! I think it should be equivalent to the previous fan

[@dasworkshop4967]

I think I might try a different approach. No matter what fan you use, forcing air into those tiny ducts is hugely inefficient, there has to be a better way. An aquarium pump (high grade pro models) can provide nice useable volume of air, so all I have to do is design either a manifold to direct air to 2 (or more) nozzles, or an air handler that lets the air escape in an annulus around the nozzle for 360 degree cooling. Air volume would be controlled by remote mounted servo controlled valves interfaced to appear to the firmware as normal fans, probably via an Arduino. Once the manifold is in place, all the printhead has to carry in terms of added load is a length of silicone tubing supported at the top near the filament carrier mount.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

A lot of people use 24v compressor pumps from massage and car chairs with inflatable bolsters and stuff. Look up "Berd air"

[@dasworkshop4967]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Very cool. I figured something must be out there. Still, I'd be inclined to use a premium aquarium air pump. Thanks.

[@CraftWireServeren]

Could you make the 5015 fan version ? :)

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes www.patreon.com/posts/62368547

[@Ghxzt2161]

Have you had any printer issues? I heard when it comes to prints that require higher cooling using a 12 V fan doesn’t provide enough cooling as a 24 V. I don’t know how true this is my self.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I have never had an issue with my12v noctua fans. Though its important to note that I usually use the noctua fan for cooling the hotend heatsink, not for part cooling. Part cooling is almost always best done with a 5015 blower fan or 4020 blower fan

[@wskwong2000]

I saw they have the option of the silent board upgrade on their website. Does that mean it doesn't come with a silent board as standard?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

All S1 printers come with silent stepper driver boards

[@DJProPlusMax]

NONONONONO with that power supply cover!

[@avgjoeshow4208]

I want to do this but I don’t wanna go cutting any wires. Can’t I just get a 12v fan instead of buying the 24 and messing with wires?

[@Pseudonymo.K]

Hi Nathan, just another question. Do u know if you can regulate the Hotend Fan per voltage or pwm? I use Klipper if this matters (which I can really recommend its awsome) Or do I need to use a buck converter or have to find a free port on the mainboard?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Yes, I think so. But the motherboard and PSU fans are on full blast as soon as you turn the machine on.

[@Aikaramba12]

You probably mentioned it, but is the old hotend fan still there, but diconnected?

[@wario2472000]

Hey! I know I am late to this video but I was wonder if you could say if you’ve seen an improvement after using the squash ball feet? Thanks

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Not sure how much of a difference it makes, I think it is quieter. Plus when I move the printer around it has a nice amount of shock absorption, so I don’t have to be so careful when setting it down

[@davidhguitarguru]

So what do you plug the fan and the blower into if there's only one port where the original cooling fan was connected to? Are you using a buck converter for them or just for the massive cooling fan you put on the bottom? Right now I'm just going for upgrading my Sprite extruder... Also should the blower be a 12v or 24v?

[@evFPV]

The fan and the blower have 2 separated connectors. If you use a 12v blower you need another zener dioder

[@davidhguitarguru]

@ev. FPV if it's 2 connectors then where on the extruder do you plug it in because one will take the original fan connection leaving an extra one. So 24v it is...

[@evFPV]

@@davidhguitarguru there are 2 fans on the Sprite. One for the heatbreak and the other one for the hotend. You can replace them with the noctua and with a blower. If you use a 12v fan you need to step them down.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

If you have more questions I’d check out the discord

[@aim6mac]

Hi Nathan, any update on the partscoolingfan noctua model yet?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

It and the 5015 will be publicly released on Feb 28th. If you want access to the closed beta we are testing it out on Patreon: www.patreon.com/posts/62368547

[@aim6mac]

@@NathanBuildsRobots I'd love to but too bad i dont own a credit card :(

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

@@aim6mac send me a message on discord or email www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/contact

[@aim6mac]

@@NathanBuildsRobots i just did :)

[@SuperPablo565]

Thanks for this great video. One question: Where to connect the voltage for the fan, placing the voltage reducer. Thank you

[@nathankean7968]

Does the noctua help with the over hangs? I can’t get over 60 with just the 4020

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

The Noctua 4020 axial fans dont move a lot of air due to their low static pressure. A 4020 blower fan or 5015 blower fan would get you at least 75 degree overhangs. For reference, the stock fan is a 4010 blower fan

[@mr.hammer1507]

thanks for the perfect guide! A question regarding the height of the air flow, should it be directed exactly at the tip of the nozzle, or more higher at the nozzle (ie just below the heat block)?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I go for just below the heater block. IMO half of the air should hit in front of the printed area and half should go behind, so you get more even results at different directions.

[@ronnifletcher3515]

I just got my printer and printed another print head with the two jets mainly cos it reminded me of an octopus :D and I was put off by the 150 degrees, I'm so glad that is not an issue for the 12v fan. While it does indeed look cool, now when I print anything with infill I have pan pipes... And I can't add the side fan. Other than that the difference over the stock is so significant. Are the dual jets better/worse or the same in terms of output? Or does the fan improvement mean that it is now so over powered it doesn't matter?

[@Promethium666]

This is a brilliant cooler, it printed fantastically and it's such a nice addition. I followed the wiring guide for the noctua flx 40x10 and the zenner diode as shown but when connecting the fan and testing it i get nothing from it, could that be a bad zenner diode? I checked the pins when making the connector so the wires match polarity.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

The noctua 3 pin and 4 pin use different wires for the + side. One uses red, other uses yellow. Try checking the pinout for your specific fan

[@Promethium666]

​@@NathanBuildsRobots I looked up a pin diagram and yeah I was wired up to the speed sensor (yellow) and not the 12v (red) as i butchered the wires directly from the fan. Many thanks for your help, your videos, and your modderboard Nathan, mine just came today :) Cheers mate, keep on moddin!

[@OmegaCreationsChannel]

this intro is just next level :D haha

[@bwloawesome]

Your bolts in the part list above go to an m2 set. Will those work?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

The Amazon listing got changed, I updated it to a new M3 set.

[@george1999days]

I am a fan of this channel

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

But are you a big fan or a little fan? Both are welcome BTW

[@Github_tech_with_ty]

The beginning of this creeps me out for some reason

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

🤫 😶

[@Sticknmove77]

Great vid, I’ve been piecing all of the parts needed for this mod and had a question. Is the fan on the left side (cr touch side) unplugged or is it running? That fan seems to be the loudest stock fan on the S1.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I removed that fan. I might also recommend the modder board as it makes fan installs like this easier, but you can get it done either way

[@Sticknmove77]

Thanks dude! Love the vids 💪🏽

[@FilamentMunchers]

Hi, Nathan, I was just wondering something. Do these fan mounts fit the Creality Pro Sprite Extruder, and if they do which STL does?