Engine Head Gasket / Cracked Head Repair (Toyota 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE ) - Part 5

Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
This is Part 5 of a 7 part video series documenting the replacement of cylinder heads on the Toyota 3.4 L V6 5VZ-FE Engine. There’s many reasons why you might find yourself needing to remove the heads. You could have a suspected bad head gasket or cracked head. You could have a suspected issue with the head, like a burnt valve, and you need to rebuild the head. It could be because you’re rebuilding the entire engine. Whatever your reason to pull the cylinder heads, this video series will walk you through all the steps necessary to get the job done successfully.
In Part 5, we basically do the reverse of what you saw in Part 3. We prep the block surface, get the remanufactured heads bolted on, get the camshafts back on the heads, get the valve covers on, get the intake manifold back on, get the power steering bracket and power steering pump back on, and get the alternator bracket and alternator back on the engine.
*TORQUE VALUES*
*Bypass Pipe Bolts and Nut - 73 in-lbs
*#2 Idler Pulley Bracket Bolts - 28 ft-lbs
*Head Bolts - 25 ft-lbs, then 90 degrees, and then another 90 degrees
*Allen Head Bolts - 13 ft-lbs
*Exhaust Manifold Nuts - 30 ft-lbs
*Cross-Over Pipe to Exhaust Manifold Nuts - 33 ft-lbs
*Cross-Over Pipe to Exhaust Pipe Nuts - 33 ft-lbs
*Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolts - 12 ft-lbs or 144 in-lbs
*Head Cam Plug Collars - 12 ft-lbs or 144 in-lbs
*Valve Cover Bolts - 53 in-lbs
*Intake Manifold Bolts/Nuts - 13 ft-lbs or 156 in-lbs
*Intake Manifold Stay Bolts - 13 ft-lbs or 156 in-lbs
*Fuel Pressure Regulator Bolts - 71 in-lbs
*Spark Plugs - 13 ft=lbs or 156 in-lbs
*Power Steering Bracket Bolts - 32 ft-lbs
*Alternator Bracket Bolts - 14 ft-lbs
*Video Links*
*Starter Removal and Solenoid Repair • Starter Removal and So...
*Alternator Brush Replacement • Alternator Brush Repla...
*Transmission & Engine Mount Replacement • Transmission & Engine ...
*Valve Clearance Inspection & Adjustment • Valve Clearance Inspec...
*Valve Cover Gasket Tutorial • 3.4 L V6 5VZ-FE Toyota...
*Power Steering Flush and Reservoir Cleaning • Power Steering Flush a...
*3.4 Swap Part 2 (Covers how to remove oil cooler) • Toyota 3.4 Liter 5VZ-F...
*3.4 Swap Part 3 (Covers how to get oil cooler reattached) • Toyota 3.4 Liter 5VZ-F...
*3.0 to 3.4 Swap (How to replace AC idler pulley bearing) • 3.0L V6 3VZ-E to 3.4L ...
*PARTS* (Parts for some of the optional things we performed will be listed in the videos we linked above.)
*5VZ 3.4L Cylinder Head Gasket Set w/ MLS Head Gasket 1999-2004
209yota1.com/products/5vz-3-4...
*Cylinder Head Bolts
209yota1.com/products/5vz-3-4...
AC Idler Pulley Bearing #(Part number coming)
#89615- 12040 - Knock Sensors - (Need 2) amzn.to/3kSjxke
#82219-34010 - Knock Sensor Wiring Harness amzn.to/35T5eFM
#90116-08251 - Intake Manifold Studs - (Need 4)
ebay.us/cyTStk
#90116-10150 - Exhaust Manifold Studs - (Need 12)
www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...
#90179-10070 - Exhaust Manifold Nuts - Need 12
ebay.us/cThSvB
#90116-10149 - Exhaust Cross-Over Pipe Studs - (Need 6)
www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...
#90116-10149 - Exhaust Cross-Over to Exhaust Pipe Studs - (Need 3)
www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...
#90175-10070 - Exhaust Cross-Over and Exhaust Pipe Nuts (These are the same nuts used for the exhaust manifolds. All the same nuts)
ebay.us/cThSvB
#90301-09173 - Transmission Dipstick Tube O-Ring
www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
Please see the comment we pinned (1st comment you see) for a list of the tools used in this video.
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

**TOOL LIST** *If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.* www.amazon.com/shop/timmythetoolman?isPublicView=true *Stubby 3/8” Flex Head Ratchet - (it use to be available for sale separately but now we can only find it as part of this 4-piece set) amzn.to/39kQVit *1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set amzn.to/2ql8nNA *1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet amzn.to/2Wnbq2r *Flex Head Box End Wrench Set amzn.to/31x8BOo *Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set amzn.to/32GoIdy *3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set amzn.to/32WIh0M *3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set amzn.to/37iQjVt *1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set amzn.to/330QjGh *1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set amzn.to/35dKQwW *1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set amzn.to/2QIU7te *Metric Allen Head Socket Set amzn.to/3Mfbag7 *1/2 Drive Deep 12mm 12-Point Socket (For Head Bolts) amzn.to/46m83h8 *1/2” Drive Regular Extension Set amzn.to/2XoLaGL *3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set amzn.to/2OehCao *Plastic Mallet amzn.to/2CCOqVP *24mm Combination Wrench amzn.to/462aF3o *1/2" Drive Breaker Bar - 24” Long amzn.to/343Vcix *Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Ratchet amzn.to/2utRZsE *Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Extended Reach Ratchet amzn.to/3kOsUS6 *Milwaukee Cordless Drill amzn.to/3MVttYe *Milwaukee M12 Battery amzn.to/3FJZO1j *Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery amzn.to/2HEFTpu *Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger amzn.to/2uo2o9x *5/8” Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Sockets w/ Extension Set amzn.to/2HRUmQx *90 Degree Needle Nose Piers amzn.to/2VYUro8 *Straight Needle Nose Pliers amzn.to/2pQ6yIa *Hose Gripper Plier Set amzn.to/3MKe8g2 *Slip Joint Pliers amzn.to/3PADm1R *CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench amzn.to/2UPhyjK *CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench amzn.to/2U2vUA4 *CDI 3/8" Drive 30-250 Inch Pound Torque Wrench amzn.to/3uGD1gE *Small Pick Tool Set amzn.to/3asf07P *Hose Remover Set amzn.to/34aKF5z *Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set amzn.to/2Ob8THw *Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) amzn.to/2m89y0D *Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) amzn.to/2ky8Qt8 *Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray Set (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) amzn.to/3l5KnHg *Flexible Mini Magnet - this would be good for removing valve shims and other jobs that require a light duty magnet) amzn.to/32FVUSl *Silicone Plug Kit amzn.to/34Joap7 *Toyota FIPG #00295-00103 - (For Engine Oil Applications) amzn.to/2QrNVFO *Toyota FIPG 1282B (For Coolant Applications) #08826-0010 ebay.us/FD48Jr *Brass Brush Set amzn.to/2ZDt2dQ *Scotch Brite Pads (Very Fine) amzn.to/46BUPgk *WD40 amzn.to/2PDShYj *242 Loctite amzn.to/2puKrHn *Anti-Sieze amzn.to/2XZbpnu *Mission Automotive Silicone Paste amzn.to/2NU1En6 *Acetone amzn.to/442oIVj *Straight Feeler Gauge Set amzn.to/3G2hUvr *Angled Feeler Gauge Set amzn.to/43bZmTB *Precision Machinist Straight Edge amzn.to/44sCMqU *Oil Gun amzn.to/3JJqxP0 *Assembly Grease amzn.to/44buSCG *Lisle Torque Angle Meter amzn.to/3O0aBtZ *Brass Drill Wheel amzn.to/44yUCsv **As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases. **As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.

[@Errb_Sulaky]

And on the 8th day, God made Timmy.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

God must have been drinking that day.

[@Errb_Sulaky]

@@TimmyTheToolman must be why we wound up with 7.

[@kiloyardstare]

You know Tim can see the light at the end of the tunnel when he starts calling all the parts "suckers" LOL! I'm glad you got around to doing this series. It doesn't get much more involved than this.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

"Suckers" is appropriate technical terminology. Yeah, this series was way overdue for us and I'm glad we finally got around to doing it. Thanks for the comment.

[@on-site4094]

Yota 1. Is a great machine shop. Hats off to Tim & Sean that’s quality. Work. & a how 2 video 👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Right on bro! Thanks for the accolades! - Sean

[@drishy94303]

Hands down the best Toyota channel on KZbin... Timmy you're a legend. From Norcal buddy.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! Where in NorCal are you?

[@benaldredge2671]

Thanks for posting guys. Hope you both have a great 4th of July!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Our pleasure, Ben. Hope you're having a good 4th of July as well.

[@stuartarneaud218]

Excellent job tim

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Stuart.

[@jackwalsh1468]

Tim, another highly informative and entertaining video. Kudos and Cheers, Mate.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jack! We're glad you like it.

[@necessarylaughter]

Thank you for taking the time to explain the resealing process of that heater bypass pipe. I’m doing the head gasket on my 99 Tacoma at this moment (thanks to your video!) and found my bypass pipe completely caked in coolant corrosion and the valley filled with coolant. This is why my coolant would get low every couple weeks which led to the overheating and ultimately the crack in my driver side head. I had to replace the pipe and couldn’t find any info on what sort of gasket to put on there to prevent it from leaking again. I just ordered the sealant from your video today and will be installing tomorrow. Thank you for being so detailed in your videos!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Melina. Good luck with the rest of the job. Hope it goes smooth for you. Happy Wrenching!

[@thechuckster6838]

Your channel is awesome! Thank you for taking the time to develop these gems! My I own 2 Tacomas. One is a 2003 with the 3.4 V-6 with 205K miles and it runs beautifully. My second Tacoma is a 2021 and it's a dog. The shifting issues and the fact that it has that 3.5 V-6 that I'm reading horror stories about, have convinced me to have the frame in my 2003 repaired by a professional frame shop. I owned an 1989 4WD truck with the 22-RE that I drove off the showroom floor and it lasted me 25 years. I sold it to a person who exported it to Costa Rica. and It's probably still running perfectly.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Chuck! We appreciate the compliment. That's too bad the 3rd Gen Tacoma isn't all that great. Sounds like the Tacoma might have already seen its best years.

[@earthwindnfire6407]

Timmy is da man! Great video, thank you! 🙌🏽

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome! We're happy to know you like the video.

[@obetcorea9985]

You did a great job, sir!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! This was one of the most involved jobs we've ever documented. It might be the most involved. It's right up there with the engine swaps we've done. What separates us from probably 99% of other Automotive Repair KZbin channels is that we are willing to document, in detail, the more involved jobs. We are sort of in a category all to ourselves. It's the level of detail we offer our audience that separates us from the rest. Some people criticize us for it, saying our videos are too long, but most compliment us on our style of making videos.

[@jsvallee567]

best channel on youtube to learn a lot of thing about toyota truck everything is well explained good job it take a lot of time and effort to do the job explain it in the same time .. then do the video montage cheers man ! i did that same job on my 92 v6 4runner few years ago and i just eyeballed my degree on the head bolt and it went super easy !

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. Great to hear you're learning a lot from our channel.

[@late_night831]

Classic Bike Trip shirt, I had a few of those from the early 2000s when I worked there. Just had their 50 year anniversary party last spring. Denver and Marty at Santa Cruz Imported Truck Service around the corner are some of the best Toyota mechanics around... Great videos, thank you!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's cool. My first visit to the Bike Trip was in the late 80's.

[@MrJonnybgood619]

You're a scholar and a saint

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Johnny! Go play your guitar!

[@MrEvisc3rator]

Appreciate the reminder for the oil cooler seals! exactly the same as the 90 series prado in au, so it makes sense to do it while you have such easy access. didnt even think about replacing those

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. It's great to know our video series is helping you out.

[@andrewb2326]

The 5vz master-class series...thank you so much. Great watching this. Just as well that Tesla thing was a joke!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment, Andrew. We appreciate it! You're very welcome. Part 6 will be live very shortly.

[@richardsauer599]

I started watching your videos a couple weeks ago and I have to say you do a great job with your step by step. Really impressed! Makes me want to buy a Toyota.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment Richard. You should get a Toyota truck or SUV.

[@richardsauer599]

@@TimmyTheToolman I may just take you up on it. My wife likes the 100 series Land Cruiser. Thoughts?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Def a pricey Toyota but also the flagship

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@richardsauer599 The 100 Series are awesome. The 2UZ-FE V8 engine they come with are bomber. One of the best engines Toyota every made. If you take care of it, it will last over 500k no problem.

[@richardsauer599]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the encouragement. Look forward to your next video. Tell Sean “Great job!”.

[@rediranch]

Another suggestion by my mechanic buddy - before putting in the new head bolts, take an old one and using a die grinder, cut grooves in the bolt threads (against the grain) to make it look like a thread chaser. Then go in and out of each head bolt hole with it. It will help clean out crap in the holes. Also make sure that if you did get liquids in the head bolt holder (cleaner) that it’s evaporated. Otherwise you can crack the block if there’s liquid in the bolt hole and you torque em down.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

After cutting all these perpendicular slots in the bolt threads, how do you know you're not going to do damage to the female threads in the block from the threads you mangled on the bolt? I would imagine at some level, the threads on the bolt won't be exactly optimal anymore and you could end up doing more damage than good. Now, if you said you'd cut the slots and then run the bolt though a die or thread restorer, then maybe your suggestion would be something I might consider. The liquid in the hole consideration is a good idea.

[@user-jo4kg8ov3u]

Much appreciated

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome!

[@adam24817]

Kinda surprised you guys didn't get new head bolts I've been told this bolts stretch so you should always get new boots?? I'm in the middle of doing this exact job love these vids guys.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We did use new head bolts… we agree it’s important to change head bolts and other bolts like the crank shaft bolt due to the torque and the stretch of the bolt once torqued. - Sean

[@KendrasEdge757]

There’s also those composite discs that supposedly remove gasket material among other things but not any metal. I’ve seen them used, but never used them personally. They could be a good option as well.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you've got a link, we'd like to see it. Thanks! As far as I know though, anything abrasive spinning at a high rpm could end up removing metal, but I'll keep an open mind. I'd like to be proven wrong because scrubbing by hand is a chore.

[@jaredt8883]

That was a long one. I ended up using a Harbor Freight special "fancy" torque wrench, and it did the same thing with the angles. It worked fine to the 90 degree, but when I went to the 180 degree it was off by 1 or 2 degrees and I just used a breaker to eyeball it. Also something I experienced that I did not see in any videos I saw on the interwebs about tightening up the head bolts, after I got the new torque-to-yield bolts up to 25 ft/lbs. I started the first 90 degree turn and every bolt made this loud popping and creaking sound the entire 90 degrees, that made my skin crawl. I was terrified that a bolt was going to break or something but they just tightened up as described in the manual, so I just assumed they were fine, unnerving, but fine.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing all that. Did you oil the bolt threads before installing them?

[@jaredt8883]

@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah, all of the bolts had a generous coating of oil on the threads and under the head and washer. The only thing I can think of that was different was I was assembling my engine on an engine stand instead of in the engine bay.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@jaredt8883 Gotcha. Maybe the engine mounts muffle the creaking.

[@gurubuzzzz]

I got that creaking noise only on one bolt.

[@howabouthetruth2157]

I'm with you about those sanding disks used on a drill. I'll take the word of a professional machinist warning against using those over anyone else. All it takes is one little foul up..........and you can say bye bye to your new head gasket installed. It's just too risky.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, definitely too risky. I thought those abrasive disks would be the way to go, but the guys at Yota1 Performance heavily advised against it.

[@rediranch]

Love your video, but gotta say the scotch brite pad I used shredded and now I got crap in the water ports. I stopped using it when I finally noticed. I probably should have a flush anyway, but now I have to.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We ended up with fine debris in the water ports as well. No matter what technique you employ to get the block surface clean, you're bound to get some debris in the oil and coolant ports. So, a coolant flush and oil change are a good idea following this job.

[@G4Disco]

Those roloc discs added to the headgasket issues that Subarus were known for. During the switch from composite gaskets to MLS a lot of blocks and heads were prepped with roloc discs.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've heard something similar. Roloc disks were very popular for a while, and still are to some extent, but some hard lessons were learned and now people in the know don't advise the use of them. Thanks for the comment.

[@G4Disco]

@@TimmyTheToolman No, thank you for the effort.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@G4Disco Our pleasure! This series was an incredible amount of work, but it was worth it.

[@kiniyaro]

Incredible videos!! Love it and feel empowered to get after my 96 T 100. Any videos on the amazing engine compartment clean you did? Also, looking for a 3\8 drive torque wrench. Recommendations?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No videos on cleaning, but I just used some soapy water and a microfiber towel and then some quick Detailer after with a fresh towel. Here is a link to a 3/8 torque driver: *CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench amzn.to/2U2vUA4

[@kiniyaro]

Thank you!!

[@Cmc-365]

Hey last question thanks for always replying. So I'm goin to put the cams in do I have to oil the bolts for the cam caps or can I torque them to check the lash make what ever adjustments I hopefully don't need. Then loosen them add the oil to the bolts then re tourqe them? I just don't want to have oil in all them holes if I have to take them back out to make adjustments. Lastly my old heads are crack3d and sitting I used a small Sharp screw driver to lever the old shims out they came out very easy could I do the same on the new heads? Or just take the hole bucket out and pick them out with the bucket out ? Should I whipe a thin layer of oil on the new shim when putting it In and if the reading come back on the higher side like one or two feeler gauges up will it be fine? Thanks again for always replying.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It sounds like you want to remove the cams to make any adjustments to the valves, instead of using the valve tools to do it. That's fine and you can do without the oil the first time. A sharp screwdriver is fine to use. I would a thin film of oil on the shim when installing it. It's not going to change the value.

[@vloppysagina]

Hey guys, I think I mixed up my cams and I'm not sure which ones are supposed to be in the passenger vs driver side heads. Any indication as to which is which? Thanks a lot. This series has been helping me a ton.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You've got a big problem on your hands. The cams and caps need to go with the heads they came with. I don't think the cams are marked driver and passenger.

[@matthewhumcke3182]

29:08 that wasnt overkill, that was 100% brilliant. it stil transitions the pressure evenly, pass by pass.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Matt. It's great to know you approve of my technique to get the heads properly affixed to the block.

[@Cmc-365]

Hey in part 3 I had to turn the driver side cam for the single dots to line up I heard Tim say that he didn't have to because of when it was set at TDC. I triple checked mine was at TDC before taking off the timing belt idk y I had to rotate mine to line up. And in this video when u cleaned the heads of the pistons how did u get the ones that were down in the cylinders stick your hand or rotate the crank?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I remember one side we had to turn the cams to get them to line up and I'm guessing it was the driver side. It's been a while since we filmed this series and I don't remember. We rotated the crank to get each piston at the top so we could clean it.

[@BigBluePile]

Sean, have you noticed a difference with the tri-tip spark plugs? Excellence video series y'all!!! Thank you!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I haven’t really driven it enough yet to determine a significant change in engine temps.. with that said, our vehicles call for a dual electrode spark plug and the go-to Denso IK20 or IK22 colder spark plugs only have a single electrode. So I’m hoping 3 is better than 2! Haha. Ultimately the goal is to get a cold spec spark plug to help the whole supercharger setup run cooler. - Sean

[@BigBluePile]

@@TimmyTheToolman I'll be interested to see how those plugs work out after you get some drive time in! Thank you!

[@rediranch]

Here’s a thought - what would you (I) have done had we gone through all this work just to find out that the block had more warpage than allowed? Maybe put a note on the video where you had just pulled the block - “consider cleaning the block and measuring for warpage before moving forward with the work.”

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, we didn't say it, but we're relying on people having common sense that they would check the block surface for excessive warpage before going out and spending a bunch of money on replacement heads. We can't put a note in the video without deleting it from our channel and losing all the commentary. The old video has to be deleted and a new version with the note has to be uploaded. We will not be doing this. At some point, people have to use their own common sense and brain power to figure out what is logical. If we found the block surface had exceeded the allowable warpage, we would have scrapped the engine and bought a rebuilt engine from Yota1 Performance.

[@rediranch]

@@TimmyTheToolmanunderstand your point, but since I’ve never done this job myself I didn’t know about checking the block until I saw you do it. Totally understand about not being able to put any notation on the existing video - yeah, don’t do that.

[@Cmc-365]

To clean the heads of each piston. Do I put the crank boat back in? And turn the engine clockwise to clean each pistonhead. And then just make sure that piston number one is at top dead center?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, that's exactly what you do.

[@howtodoit1779]

I'm doing a lower engine rebuild and will be reusing my old heads. They've already been replaced. Would checking valve adjustment still be necessary in that situation?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It still wouldn't be a bad idea to at least check the valve clearances to make sure they are all within spec while doing the lower end rebuild.

[@Cmc-365]

When u guys checked the lash was it completely Necessary to change out the shims or could u have still installed the heads ? The place I bought mine from said they torurqed cams and set the lash with everything tourqe to spec

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Some of the valves weren't where we wanted them, in the middle of the spec, so we adjusted them. None of them were out of spec, but some were on the edge of the spec. If I were you, I'd confirm the valve lash is good before putting the valve covers on.

[@howabouthetruth2157]

Yet another 5 star video guys. Just curious: I'm wondering if something like carb cleaner would've worked better than WD-40 for scrubbing/cleaning the block deck to get it ready for the new MLS head gaskets? The reason I'm asking, is because I wouldn't assume that WD-40 is particularly great as "a solvent"........whereas carb cleaner ( or even "Goof Off" ) is definitely a good solvent. ??????????? This is a major project, so anything to make the overall job easier. But hey........I guess ya use whatever ya have available.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. We had seen people use WD40 in other videos on the same subject, and that's why we went with it. Maybe carb cleaner or another solvent would have worked better. Who knows.

[@gurubuzzzz]

I alternated between WD40, thinners and grey scotchbright and 400 grit wet and dry. I found that the thinners softened the residue as the next day I grabbed some scotch brite and the muck came off a lot easier. I also used a velcro pad with medium grit scotch brite on a low speed drill, I am experienced in sanding surfaces so I know to keep it moving and flat. I wish I did this from the start. But not recommended on alloy blocks. Of course scrape of as much as you can first as that residue quickly clogs up abrasives.

[@LaLoquera09]

Timmy! Do you have a part number for the cooler running thermostat you recommend when installing a supercharger? Also, do you think there are any issues running the supercharger with the big 3 wire upgrade and the larger alternator?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Here you go: amzn.to/3QmfCxL It doesn't come with the gasket, so buy this too: amzn.to/49Uk0uZ

[@aldomassa7473]

All the jokes …… EXCELLENCE as always Tim. Would be nice to see this process with a 2UZ-FE. THANKS !! Oh and stay cool it’s hot out there.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm glad you appreciate the humor. Thanks! One day, we might do this on a 2UZ-FE. And yeah, the temps have shot up where we live.

[@luisbautista8229]

What’s the part number for those exhaust donut gaskets?

[@howtodoit1779]

Did the head gasket kit come with all the needed exhaust crush washers?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it did.

[@frankkninkjj]

Timmy wonderful videos hopefully I could find some with those skill here in Florida to do my truck any recommendations please thanks in advance

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Frank, I don't know of anyone I can refer you to in Florida. If you have the time and space, you can do this job too.

[@frankkninkjj]

@@TimmyTheToolman hi Timmy I don’t have those skill buddy honestly, if I can send the car to California? You can do it ? Thanks for the rapid respond I appreciate it

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@frankkninkjj I would only want to do that job again on one of my personal vehicles. It's a lot of work. My time is better spent making new videos.

[@user-do1yl2kh9h]

Hi Timmy, thanks a ton for making this series! I'm currently doing this job right now and your videos are helping me get it done. I'm at the stage of cleaning my engine block and was curious, did you use the same scotch-brite pad and wd40 cleaning method on the piston heads and cylinder walls as well? If so, do you need to be careful in not letting any of the residue from cleaning get past the piston ring? Is there a good way to carefully do this?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We did use the scotch brite pads on the piston heads. We didn't scrub the cylinder walls. We used wiped them out. Don't worry about the runoff. What we did is change the oil initially and replace it with some cheap oil. We ran the engine briefly and then changed the oil and filter and filled it with a quality oil. We talk about this in the last part, Part 7.

[@user-do1yl2kh9h]

@@TimmyTheToolman Ok got it, thanks!

[@Cmc-365]

Once you take the cams out how to you know where TDC is when u reinstall the cam ? If u take the cam pullys off then take out cams would it be hard to find tdc again?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, it's not hard to find TDC again. You use the dots on the cams like we show in the video.

[@Cmc-365]

Thanks I didn't see part 6

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Cmc-365 No problem. Good luck with the job.

[@Ben-zh6pp]

hey Tim, completed the job fully and one side of the engine isn’t getting cooled, which is causing overheating. Would this be possibly due to the head gasket covering those ports?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you got the wrong gaskets, possibly. Any 3.4L gasket should have been correct.

[@rushthezeppelin]

I wonder if the bolts are rebounding a bit when you were torquing to yield. I'm imaging torquing to yield involves some actually twisting in the bolt. Also I see y'all decided to copy Speedy's Garage with the black valve covers.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I think you are partially correct. The digital torque wrench is measuring correctly, but there's a certain amount of flex happening in the tool and 1/2" extension when the spec gets that high. The handle is moving without movement in the bolt. I do think the bolt, like you said, is rebounding a bit, too.

[@Cmc-365]

Were u worrid of the little fibers goin down the cooling and oil passages?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, we weren't worried. We flushed the cooling system after the head replacement.

[@primeautodesigns]

This may make me feel like an idiot for doing so but years back I replaced a cylinder head on a bmw and was recommended to use fine grit steel wool. I do remember it worked like a charm but seeing it was not recommended here at all, it may have been a mistake...? who knows. After the job though that engine lasted me much longer with that new cylinder head with zero problems. Id like to here some feedback.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know. Fine grit steel wool done by hand probably isn't anything different than we did with the scotch brite pads we used. What we tried to steer people clear of is using Roloc abrasive wheels on a drill. The steel wool leaves a fine metal residue, but we left residue from the pads we used as well. The oil filter would capture anything suspended in the oil. So, I don't think using steel wool was a bad choice. Fine steel wool is a very light abrasive.

[@hughkoontz2166]

Hey Tim it looks like you and Sean also cleaned up the piston heads. Did you use acetone there as well? And how did you get each piston to the top of the cylinder so you could clean it? Thought that may mess up your timing since the belt was off.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We used acetone and soft microfiber cloths. We were cautious about touching the piston walls and didn’t apply much pressure to the walls as you don’t want to scratch/scuff that machined surface. Applying pressure to clean The tops of the pistons is fine. The piston tops don’t need to be cleaned technically, but since they are staring you in the face, and they are very accessible with the heads off the block, you might as well clean the gunk off the top of them. You can turn the engine over using the crankshaft/crankshaft bolt, and no it doesn’t mess up the timing because you get everything to TDC before you put the belt on. So the crank shaft gets rotated to move the pistons up and down and also to align the crankshaft gear back to its timing mark. - Sean

[@hughkoontz2166]

Thank you for your response! Great stuff!

[@Cmc-365]

Did u use scotch brite on he piston to?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, Sean cleaned the tops of the piston with the WD40 and scotch brite pads. They clean up pretty quick. It's not like cleaning the block surface.

[@Spaceberries12]

Did you recheck the valves after 500 miles?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, we didn't.

[@SOLDADITO76]

Question about the passenger side cylinder head. When your installing the cams with the two dots aligned and the caps have been torqued, the alignment dowel points at the six o'clock. When installing the timing belt that dowel needs to be at the twelve o'clock. Do you just rotate the cams clockwise till that mark is in the correct position?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, just rotate it to the 12 o'clock position. It's a non-interference nterference engine, so the cams can turn independently of each other and independently of the crankshaft.

[@SOLDADITO76]

So yes rotate the cam so the dowel is at the 12 o'clock position?. Just asking this because the set of remanufactured heads I got had the cam installed this way, and I don't want to put valves into the pistons at first start up.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@SOLDADITO76 Yes, rotate the timing mark to the 12 o'clock position. I misspoke in my last comment and said 6 o'clock. Like I said, the 5VZ is a non-interference engine. The valves can not come in contact with the pistons. If you are hesitant to believe what I'm saying, just confirm it through other sources. Me telling you the same thing twice maybe isn't enough for you to feel good about it.

[@SOLDADITO76]

Just double checking because you said the 6 o'clock position. If I didn't believe your knowledge in this area I wouldn't have asked the question. Sorry if I bothered you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@SOLDADITO76 No worries. I don't mind answering people's questions. I just don't like having to repeat myself. If you have other questions, don't hesitate to ask. The difference between our channel and most other automotive channels is we actually take the time to answer people's questions. Online communication can sometimes be tricky, and things get misconstrued. I did think you were questioning whether I knew what I was talking about in regards to the 5VZ engine being a non-interference engine. Anyway, we're both back on the same page. Hope the rest of the job goes smoothly for you. Like I said, if you need to clarify something, don't hesitate to ask. If I considered people asking questions as bothering me, you'd see the comments sections of our videos devoid of responses. I you take a look at any video of ours and look at the comments, we probably answer 95% or higher of the questions and acknowledge 95% or higher of the comments people make. We pride ourselves on the level of response we give to people. So Dude, you're not bothering us.

[@johnrubio56]

You do very good work. What city are you located? Do you take on projects?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks John. We are in San Jose, California but we don't do side jobs for people. Sean and I both have full time jobs, significant others and other responsibilities, so making content for our channel is all we have time for. Making new videos is how we can do the most good for greatest number of people. Anyone with an internet connection can find our channel and benefit from out library of videos.

[@JustiNDalT0N1]

I did an engine swap, now trans will not engage, no comms to obd2.. any suggestions? 97 4runner 4wd

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Are you sure you connected all the electrical connectors back up? Any flashing lights on your dash? The trans gear shift is mostly mechanical. Are you sure you reconnected the shifting linkage? - Sean

[@JustiNDalT0N1]

@@TimmyTheToolman ended up just being confused I guess… she’s running

[@efil4kizum]

Sean, How many miles are on this engine? ... that new heater control valve looks sharp! ... i recently turned 300k on my 5VZ Taco and this HG has me concerned a bit after changing the lower radiator hose this past week due to a coolant weep at the thermo inlet housing

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sean's engine has around 200k miles. He's been running a supercharger for a long time though.

[@user-do1yl2kh9h]

Hey Tim and Sean! I'm having a tough time getting a torque wrench on the three nuts that fasten the driver's side exhaust manifold to the exhaust crossover pipe. Do you guys have any tips on getting these torqued or should I just use a smaller wrench and get them as guten-tight as I can? :)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Do yourself a favor and don't live and die by the torque value. Trust yourself and just get the nuts tight with whatever wrench you can get onto the nuts with. We regularly don't torque fasteners when we realize we can't get in there with our torqe wrenches. The German spec of Gudentite works for a lot of situations.

[@user-do1yl2kh9h]

Ok cool, thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@user-do1yl2kh9h You're welcome!

[@StandFast1611]

do i need to do a valve adjusment when im done?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's a good idea to confirm that the valve clearances are in spec.

[@StandFast1611]

@TimmyTheToolman Any recommendations on a valve adjustment set for my tacoma? This is my first time so I'm not sure what to get exactly

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@StandFast1611 You need the valve adjustment tools, a micrometer to measure the shims, some feeler gauges, and the shims themselves to bring your valves back into spec. Watch this video, and you'll have a good understanding .kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4DPnp2qobRqiqssi=_nTSslrL4WBKTWjV

[@tpatrickwilson65]

Tim, I'm having a heck of a time getting the exhaust manifolds connected to the crossover pipe. Is there some sort of technique or advice you might give me? If I get the exhaust manifolds attached loosely to the head like you show on the video, there's no room at the back to clear the bolts on the exhaust manifolds to get the crossover pipe attached. Just hoping there was some technique that might help. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Did you set the crossover pipe at the back of the engine before getting the heads on?

[@tpatrickwilson65]

@@TimmyTheToolman I did follow your warning on that so I'm good there. Whew! Just not much room back there. When I get exhaust manifold on I've got no room to clear the bolts on the manifold to get the crosspipe on. It's a 1997 if that matters at all. It's kind of like a puzzle! 😀

[@tpatrickwilson65]

As my dad used to say...maybe I'm not holding my mouth right?

[@tpatrickwilson65]

Let me ask this. Should I be able to get the crossover pipe connected to the manifolds without connecting the crossover pipe to the lower pipe that runs underneath?

[@tpatrickwilson65]

Just looked at the 3rd video where you took the exhaust off. If it came off in that order, it's gotta go back on in the reverse order. Will regroup and attack again in the morning. Thanks!

[@devondrayton4006]

Just a guess but maybe the reason the ports on the block are covered up by the gasket is that those were machined out for the purpose of weight reduction.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Maybe. I should ask the guys at Yota1 and see what they say.

[@Yorikami089]

Hola! Como puedo conseguir un estimado del mismo trabajo con usted? 🤔

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sorry, we are not mechanics for hire. We make videos so people can do the work themselves.

[@Yorikami089]

@@TimmyTheToolman ok, thank you so much!

[@leomullen6273]

How did you clean the piston heads?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Just with the scotch brite pads and a little WD40.

[@leomullen6273]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks! Would you worry about scratching the cylinder wall with the scotch pads for the recessed pistons?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@leomullen6273 We didn't really scrub the cylinder walls. We just wiped them out with a rag and some acetone.

[@ezequielgutierrez5131]

@TimmyTheToolman Hey, i have a question, i just got my cylinder heads resurfaced, just that do i still need to do a valve adjustment? Thank you appreciate.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It would be smart to double-check the valve clearances.

[@ezequielgutierrez5131]

@@TimmyTheToolman okay, thanks. I will check it, I been following your videos step by step. I really appreciate that you take the time to make these videos.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@ezequielgutierrez5131 You're welcome. Good luck with the rest of the job.

[@ezequielgutierrez5131]

​@@TimmyTheToolmanso I just starter the truck last night. No good luck. It started right up but it started leaking fuel from the injectors that I also changed. So I shut if off and I ended up changing them back to the old ones cuz the new ones wouldn't sit right. So the old ones are not leaking but cranks but no start. So I took out the spark plugs and noticed there's fuel on the spark plugs. I cleaned them and re installed them back and same problem, I took out the spark plug and it's wet with fuel. So I'm not getting spark. I will check for spark but is it something else that I should check for please let me know thank you appreciate.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@ezequielgutierrez5131 Other than having you double-check all your electrical connectors, I don't know why you wouldn't have spark to your spark plugs. Make sure the coil packs are plugged in.

[@samh6761]

WD40 is great for cleaning carbon crud out of the head too

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to know.

[@gurubuzzzz]

Install Cams 40:34 Valve clearances 46:30

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We see you're just leaving some time markers for yourself as a comment, but I have a question for you. Are you finding our series helpful? We'd really like to know after spending an eternity filming and editing this project. Thanks and good luck with the job.

[@gurubuzzzz]

OMG!!! your video has been indespencible. It's like having a couple of good friends in the garage with me helping with the job. I have a computer with a monitor on an arm in the garage. I have the Manual open in a PDF viewer and your video open in the browser. Putting paint on top of the head bolts is a great Idea. There is also another set of videos that another guy made a while ago which is also very helpful. The coolant drain in the right side of the block is helpfull. I have made content before and helped other people set up editing machines and live streaming set ups so I totally appreciate the massive quest it is to do this, most people don't realise that it can take up to 20 times the length of a video to film and edit it. I have had a combustion chamber to water jacket gasket issue for about 7 years and I did about 100,000km I only needed to top up the water twice every tank. On a long trip from Sydney to Melbourne I noticed that the coolant overflow tank was not losing any water like normal,it didn't make sense to me at the time. An hour from home the temp guage went higher than I had ever seen it.On inspection I heard a hissing noise at the back of the engine and there was a tiny pin hole in a heater hose. Luckily I had a spare. When we finally got home I realise that it now had water in the oil. After watching a few videos I almost certainly thought I had a cracked head so I ordered 2 brand new heads fully assembled. They arrived before I got the heads off. When I took off the heads there was no cracks in the usual spots and the heads were in generally good shape. But I'm still putting the brand new heads on. Goes to show that on an over heated engine the method, after taking the radiator cap off (carefully with a few rags over it holding the cap on while all the pressue releases WARNING: THEY CAN EXPLODE AND CAUSE SEVERE BURNS.) Then running the engine while you slowly dribble water back into the radiator will prevent cracking heads. The vehicle has done nearly 400,000 miles (about 640,000km). You can still see some factory hone marks in the bores and the pistons are super clean. I've run it on a 4th gen LPG liquid injection set up. (so I have an extra step of removing and re-installing the LPG loom and injectors that feed direcly into the lower manifold). Always changed oil regularly, previous owner religiously seviced every 6 months, I called his mechanic and he said that he never shyed away from anything it needed. I intend to get a million kms out of the beast as I've spoken to a few mechanics who said they have seviced a few with 1,000,000Km+ on the dial. I am going to put a temp guage on with an alarm to preven over heating in the future. The first time it overheated was when I was towing a 36 foot quad axle caravan. Ater a lot of wrong advice and replacing fan clutch and water pump. It took my good friend who is a radiator guy to find out it was a blocked radiator. To any one else out there, radiators seem to flow great even if they are 80%blocked. the way to check is warm up the engine and feel the radiator with your hand and you will notice parts that are cooler than others. My friend Pete, took off the top tank and unblocked it with a dip stick slowly poking unblocking each pathway/tube/fin in the core. He also connected an old radiator hose at the bottom which had a garden hose and an airline conneted and every once in a while with the water running would blast compressed air through. I'm glad I waited 7 years to do the gasket seeing your videos only came out a few months ago. Thanks you so much. PS: I have one question. My coolant pipe under the manifold looks in great shape and has had no apparent leaks, Im thinking to not mess with it and leave it alone. Do you think I'm being silly? @@TimmyTheToolman

[@safeteyvalve]

I’m in no way experienced as you with tools or engines. That said, another torque wrench company states with their digital wrenches they instruct to pull the wrench from above the digital readout (from the middle of the wrench) because it can damage the wrench if pulled from the handle at the end of the wrench. The instructions actually state this (different make). The instructions state a wrong reading can occur if not tortured pulling from the middle of the wrench.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Very interesting. I'll have to read the instruction manual for that torque wrench a little more carefully. Who would have thought you don't grab the torque wrench by the actual handle. Weird. Anyway, thanks for sharing this. This was my first and only experience using a digital torque wrench.

[@ChrispyTofoo]

Hi Tim, I gratefully watched your engine swap and head redo videos, but something I'm not finding in the head replacement video, I'm seems to be having valve timing issues. firing issues, engine does not start , barely fires any cylinders, ok, so I 'thought' I'd aligned the left side incorrectly y aligning it by the single dots (I missed the part initially about the Japanese's right left is from sitting in driver seat,), doh! So I tore back into it, to re-alight to double dots, but...if the right side cams are to be aligned with 1 dot on each cam... and the left are to aligned with 2.. that puts the left cam sprocket at 180 degrees off to have the TDC line at the top, and one must rotate the left cam 180 degrees to get the TDC line on the sprocket to line up. or am I missing something? in this scenario, one could have just lined up Both side cams to 1 dot, as when I rotate 180 degrees 'clockwise'.. now the Left side single dots align, This is where I started, engine not wanting to start, and feeling like I'm 180 degrees off, or off with one or two cams off. I'm kind of stuck as the cam positions are right back where it was in a non starting place, any advise or insight would be a great help..

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The dots are used just to get the cams in the right position for removal and reinstallation. In those positions, the cam lobes aren't compressing any of the valves. Once you get the cams back on and you're ready to put the timing belt on, the cam pulley timing marks need to be at TDC.

[@ChrispyTofoo]

Thanks Tim, would being one tooth off TDC on the belt cause the engine not to start?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@ChrispyTofoo Probably not. It would still start being one tooth off. Your problem is elsewhere.

[@ChrispyTofoo]

damn... thanks again!