Engineering is awesome.

[@kenreynolds1092]

Got the printer now what computer and program do I need?

[@3DPrinterAcademy]

Fusion 360 and Blender are great design programs. I have lessons on my tutorial KZbin channel: @3DPrinterAcademyTutorials Also how-to articles and courses on my website: 3DPrinterAcademy.com The designs in this video are from threadboards.com

[@willcubemakes]

If you want to design precise parts/mechanisms, Fusion 360 (now called just fusion I think) is a better choice than blender. However, blender is usually better for more "natural" or imprecise models (like characters). You also need a slicer (sometimes provided with your printer) which takes your designed models and converts them to code that the printer can read. Popular options are Orca Slicer, Cura, and Prusa Slicer.

[@3DPrinterAcademy]

@@willcubemakesexactly! And don’t forget Bambu Studio (slicer for Bambu Lab printers)

[@Yoggoth]

That depends of what printer you have. What printer do you have?

[@newmonengineering]

Honestly, onshape is an underrated tool. I used to use Fusion360, but they priced themselves out of my market. Switched to onshape and it has functions that are so much better, fewer errors, and has changed my workflow. I know it's only a browser based thing, but it is extremely easy to use and very capable and I find it has better tools and options and less errors compared to fusion360. It's not a offline tool, but it's a very capable tool. I wish more people would just give it a try. If they ever build an offline tool that works exactly the same as the online one I would buy it. But I use their online tool all day, it really is a decent tool

[@OwenRothwell-m1k]

If you think about it, we live in an age where if you want something, you can just... make it. You think of a cool idea for a videogame? You can learn to code it using tutorials. You need a part that they don't make anymore? 3D print it. There is so much information online and tools like 3D printers becoming more and more accessible, you can basically create anything you want. Kinda crazy, isn't it?

[@sandorkarolydeneskarcsi3271]

what about guns?

[@ventanims]

@@sandorkarolydeneskarcsi3271 People have 3d printed guns, yes. You can also DIY it!

[@Lucas-cm8zq]

@@ventanims you still need metal. All polymers (other than PEEK basically) cant deal with the pressure of a fired bullet. Also the bullet in itself cant be 3d printed obviously

[@tuckersaspy]

​@@sandorkarolydeneskarcsi3271you can make a gun for under 20 bucks from stuff in the hardware store, no 3d printer required

[@guilhermelb1674]

You can make a one shoot gun though. In most cases this is enough skskskskssksksksk​@@Lucas-cm8zq

[@brettjamesy]

Anyone that shows consideration for printability has my vote. 👍 Too many lazy 'designers' around sh!tting out basically unprintable designs

[@skmgeek]

you clearly aren't looking in the right places then lol

[@starshiphopper7044]

@@skmgeek share some source please

[@skmgeek]

@@starshiphopper7044 the website Printables has really good models, I find that Thingiverse often has unprintable models

[@FluorescentApe]

@@skmgeek That's not even the point. There's still a flood of bad designs even if you DO find the good ones.

[@skmgeek]

@@FluorescentApe and it's the same with literally any community that shares creations. it's the same with youtube, the same with music, the same with art, there's always good and bad.

[@Friday4]

After solving and starting my own big projects, I fell in love with engineering. Engineering is enjoyable :)

[@zendell37]

It's so satisfying to solve problems.

[@cmtetaboaco]

You can actually predict the orientation of the clip

[@Argosh]

Yes and no. You can predict it for this particular printed section of the wall. There is no guarantee that the tolerances will work out for any other wall piece.

[@theMerzavets]

​@@Argosh why? Sections have wholes with thread 3d-printed exactly the same way with certain orientation.

[@Argosh]

@@theMerzavets yes, but the tolerances are unlikely to be identical. 3D printing is not as repeatable as CNC.

[@theMerzavets]

@@Argosh if we talk about threads with huge step (like in the video), 3D printing is very repeatable. If thread begins at 0⁰ angle on the first detail, it'll begin at 0⁰ angle on 10th, 100th and even 1000th detail too.

[@Argosh]

@@theMerzavets depends on which side you screw into. Bottom layers are usually repeatable within sessions, but variances in bed leveling can cause a discrepancy that could yield a visible misalignment. Top layers will definitely have variances simply off of shrinkage and material differences. I did my fair share of series production and even off the same printer fits are rarely repeatable and that definitely impacts screw threads.

[@EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE1]

You know all screws af same length will end up in the same position right

[@ciarfah]

He even showed it ending up in the same position twice

[@p0kepengin592]

it's still kinda inconvenient

[@jpmelo.750]

i've noticed that, too. I think he could've just rotated the threads or the head of the bolt to match the orientation he was looking for. Once achieved, it would be the same for all the board, i guess

[@ChadwellJ]

​@@p0kepengin592 There's no way making this was more convenient than just rotating the spiral of the original threaded clip model by like 70 degrees. Or, better yet, just using regular bolts on a corner that don't obscure the image.

[@timtim4726]

He could have made a screw with big slotted head so that a piece of paper/cardboard could be inserted from any direction. Anyways that's too complicated. Why not use ordinary things like adhesive tape, gum etc. The simpler the better. I don't know why people are so obsessed with 3d-print-everything. Let's not forget the tons of time-tested simple working ways of life

[@SpongeAndLeo]

Engineering then: I built this self propelled vehicle using fire and steam Engineering now: I drew a picture and had a computer print it. Oh, yeah, it does obscure the thing it displays, but muh engineering!

[@oNovais]

“…And the Russians just used tape”

[@huggi3s77]

yes, you can’t really buy anything in Russia

[@67rallysport72]

I thought they used a pencil?

[@Galy4a]

blue tape

[@miguelguerreiro5280]

Why not spit?

[@saby7416]

😂😂

[@olacolega7067]

A great solution for a problem that doesn't exist

[@elwinfennema3526]

Why do something for 5 minutes when you can automate it in 4 hours I love it, great design

[@pepegrillox249]

As soon as you asked the question “how” I thought well I would make 2 screws that look like wheels and attach it that way 😂 that could be fun too lol

[@JJFX-]

As a certified garage engineer with an armchair, I'm not impressed... except by how many times you managed to fit the word "engineering" in a 4 min video.

[@dhedhekuncoro]

but then your clip is covering the picture which defeat the purpose of a pictures. There, more engineering problem for you.

[@TratUsYT]

Put the pic on an index card or smthn

[@maciejjabonski833]

I love this type of videos! Nice design too

[@notsafefortorque9060]

Buy small magnets, glue magnets on "srews" heads, glue any magnetic small metal washer or whatever on back of picture/put in front of picture---->Profit. Or put magnets into the screw while printing, can do a huge badge of srews at once. This way all the screws can be used as magnetets. Also can put another magnet in a simple cylinder as the counter part to hold pictures. So many options.

[@LKDesign]

With this build-up I was expecting something entirely different.

[@derekturner3272]

KISS... The first option would be perfect with a crush washer. Material properties FTW. But proceed.. :) Over engineering can be fun too!

[@onnotwisk2358]

It's also a very big thread pitch so you can probably get pretty close by just adding some angle offset to the threads.

[@fulgacian]

You can attach the clip to the bolt and then the nut will fix the clip anywhere in 360 degrees. Easier to print, and no need to PIP

[@marcotrevisanmota5209]

This is called design for manufacturing😊

[@MrAnsk]

Short, to the point, perfect video, keep up the amazing work!

[@3dmassproduction]

Happy printing ❤ Simple and good explanation some people understimate (print in place) but it's very important for 3d printing that people eventually can download and print products with ease and no or minimal assembly

[@ThePomoAa]

For print strength, you should really look into annealing (or baking) your 3d prints. That improves strength a lot.

[@CHICKSTER118]

Print a screw with a cavity in the head for a small washer. Insert the washer during print so it’s embedded. Use a small neodymium magnet to secure your picture to the screw from the frontside.

[@marshelo1772]

Concise video, I like it

[@TheGoldenFox64]

designing the part is engineering, printing a batch of the first prototype is gambling

[@danko6582]

But the board is 3D printed so we DO know the orientation of the thread.

[@mohammaddh8655]

3:50 the guy who made nuke , useful , fun and interesting🤣

[@kevin-haggerty]

I just ordered my first printer(finally) and I'm really looking forward to creating.

[@tomdchi12]

The bump/concavity inside the clip is the kind of thing I need to remember is possible with 3D printing

[@Andi-Maringer]

This is the way, i like 3D printing!!! Did also a lot of prototyping and engineering. Its soo much fun!

[@daniele.ronzulli912]

congrats!!

[@Lucretiel]

Follow up idea is to add an additional mechanism by which the clip can be tightened in any orientation without spinning

[@philippmeurer7290]

But at 2:51 you have to print supports right? Right between the clip and the thing that goes into the head of the screw, there is a lot of free space underneath where you have to print supports

[@survival_man7746]

I would put less clearance between the clip and the screw so that it holds the position you put it in but except that I see your design very well engineered

[@sivkaother6518]

Инженерия ради инженерии. А почему бы просто не сделать дырку без резьбы в клипсе, и просто не зафиксировать её в любом положении с помощью винта?

[@theMerzavets]

Чувак больше не про клипсу говорит, а про принцип 🙂 В философию потянуло. На самом деле, сейчас огромное число каких-то выдумок можно реализовать за полчаса возни во Фьюжене или Компасе и час печати. Выдумок в том числе и вполне себе безумных 🙂

[@sivkaother6518]

@@theMerzavets Мне кажется, чуваки просто ищут оправдание покупки 3D-принтера. Сколько видео смотрю -- всегда куча непрактичной фигни. Или вообще идеи уровня: "на микроволновке слишком много кнопок! Я напечатал заглушку, которая закрывает остальные кнопки на панели!". Это как с видео про лайфхаки.

[@adihafizdotcom]

The print & place printing mechanism you mentioned in 2:25 is not being demonstrated. Interested to know about it. Is it similar with the method that people shared on how to insert a magnet into a 3D printed object?

[@jamesmanning8269]

This guy prints in place

[@lazyman1011]

Another nice workflow vid! Thanks

[@waqar_bux]

i really like these short videos

[@zpinacz]

Beautiful!

[@Gilmar.Oliveira]

You can angle the thread so the clip end up in the perfect position.

[@colinmac7618]

This is everyday things we do as a student in industrial design. A very interesting field, i would definitely recommend pursuing if you are interested in these sort of things!

[@BartJBols]

make the original peg screw a little longer, and add or print a washer of the same thickness you added to the length of the peg. When screwing it in, just before you tighten the peg, slip in the photograph in between the peg and the washer and further tighten it to clamp the picture between the peg and the washer. No silly friction systems that might loosen or need special orientations to be printed, just the same peg a little longe rand a washer.

[@ted_van_loon]

if you still want to make metal gears there is a much cheaper simple way. 1 print the gears using basic pla or such. 2 make a tray with some fine form of sand pehaps claylike but also sand like, 3 press the gear in the sand push sand around the edges so it follows the shapes 4 pull it out(you can use your old 3d printer if you happen to have a super shakey hand, but generally if you just take it out should be good. 5 in case the sand from the axis hole collapsed you can eiher put the axis in place directly this way the gear will directly be stuck to it or take some wooden peg of the right size which you can later burn out, or make a paper roll and fill that with the sand in the right place. 6 wait for the sand to be pretty dry(safely dry) 7 cast metal into it, aluminium can be cheap due to it being easy to find everywhere even for free, zamast or za12 however is much cheaper if you have to buy it and also is much more easy to cast at much lower temperatures and it is also stronger than aluminium, it is more heavy however but that is no problem for gears and it will also tend to case much finer than aluminium as in spread out better, etc. for a few € you can make a set of metal gears like that. answering it here since you might not check comments on those older videos anymore, but those gear designs you used are insanely easy to stam as you don't need to do any of the advanced things like burning out a model or such, instead you can litterally just stamp it into fine sand super easy and cheap as it litterally costs the cost of the metal itself, which in the case of zamak is super cheap due to being used a lot in industry and being made from cheap metals. ofcource also some slight heating costs but it melts really easily.

[@FuchsDanin]

Nicely done overall.

[@AGuyWhoDosentKnow]

Haribo Golden Bears is no doubt one of the most is full tools

[@abdullahsaid181]

thank you Steve

[@hansenyang6284]

Awesome design! Are you printing the whole assembly in one go? how'd you remove the tiny support between the gap?

[@ciarfah]

There is no support. Look up some other videos on print-in-place design

[@bbrachman]

Steven: Designing a part almost has nothing to do with the end production. All the work is in thinking out the device and considering all the requirements. Your brain works that way. Mine does sometimes. Designing product packaging is almost in the same category as developing a product. Constraints and restrictions are the shapers of the design.

[@MooreAnalytical]

Do you have any tips for making my own accessories for thread board? I have already loaded my wall and I think this platform is better than multi board, just needs more community parts. Any tips you have would be very helpful

[@ijontichy9237]

Good work! Thank you.

[@keeleycarrigan]

Really good work. I’m pretty jealous I didn’t have to KZbin and 3d printing when I was a kid. I lucked out with being the right age to be a sought after developer, but I feel like I missed mount on a lot of learning KZbin could have provided.

[@EvanBallard-u7h]

this video kind of annoyed me just because you probably could of just simplified it by just making a screw and then put a small slab with a hole in it so the screw would cramp it down, but good tips!

[@cinnamon3556]

or just two sided tape lol

[@DrTheRich]

When you have a printer, too much time, and a KZbin channel, you just kinda need to invent problems to solve in a needlesly complex way...

[@p0kepengin592]

​@cinnamon3556 two sided tape is annoying af

[@codyrap95]

Could've*

[@sergeantsapient]

​@@DrTheRichIt's really not that complex. He went through Fusion 360 but it could have been done pretty easily with even Tinkercad.

[@High.on.barsss]

Good stuff!

[@finlayene]

the back part being sideways kinda triggers my OCD, could a solution be adding a little arrow to the design that you have to point up when you screw the piece in so that it always ends up straight?

[@Gilmar.Oliveira]

I feel that!

[@mop0014]

Your first idea was much better, you could've just rotated the thread so the clip points up or down when tight

[@TheOfficialOriginalChad]

If threadboard ever goes open source I would be happy to share my picture clip that uses 90% less filament. I’ll give you a hint on the design: the interface with the board is designed to hold a photo, not a 15lb weight.

[@DrTheRich]

Its a square with holes.... Why does it need to go open source? You can make this in software in 3 mins just from hearing someone describe the idea...

[@cheizaguirre5494]

What’s needed and how do you go about knowing the gap and spacing for a print in place model idea?

[@3dvince]

Make some tester models with varying gaps. I highly suggest using a parametric design to make this task way quicker. Once you find your magic numbers take note of them and use them everywhere! Print in Place seams A LOT more complicated then it actually is. Give it a try!

[@yesyesterdays135]

You should make an engineering tutorial

[@bradburns1468]

Is the engineering in the room with us?

[@ThankYouESM]

I don't have a 3D printer yet, so... are there no transparent feed of plastic... or at least a way to attach a paperclip instead to it to hold the paper, therefore... show much better?

[@ScorgeRudess]

This is so cool... btw, its curious to me that engineering its just common sense after realizing how things work. Im an engineer btw. xD nice video.

[@3DJapan]

You could print that clip on its side. No supports, just as strong.

[@ryanpatton1795]

bro missed a fat opportunity to add another feature to the clip where he can tighten it and it will hold the clip in an orientation

[@xQKUg9S]

two magnet would do the same job better

[@MG_LIFE_LBS]

And would cost more money and a trip to the store.

[@MG_LIFE_LBS]

Not to mention time

[@DrTheRich]

​@@MG_LIFE_LBS filament isnt free, prototypes cost money. And designing this thing cost way more time than ordering something from Amazon.

[@MG_LIFE_LBS]

@@DrTheRich So what? We don’t design the product, he does. That’s only one person. Plus ordering from Amazon takes time.

[@Mandalorian_Man]

cool I would've just made a friction fit peg lol

[@劉濬宇-n5n]

you are awesome

[@zewarmdur9195]

Make widths or the clip alot thinner its take big part of pic its not necessary

[@kitmarshall4084]

Regarding the picture clip, why can it have a oversized hole/loop on top so it free spin around the bolt/screw

[@parthtanna6474]

What was the reason to the clip problem of Breaking/Bending when printed Vertically/horizontally?

[@ciarfah]

Layer line orientation

[@szymonszczesny627]

I want to be a mechatronic engineer in future

[@LNMW]

4:20, nice

[@Missing_Texture.]

tbh it is bad design. peg that holds clip is not horizontal on board, too much space between board and paper. you could do it in 2 parts - fully round tread peg with edge to snap on clip and clip would look like letter F, so clip would rotate on peg and take no space.

[@Missing_Texture.]

i even made and printed prototype of my idea

[@Quepiid]

Bro. You could of rotated the threaded part about 100 degrees and it would of been pointed down every time.

[@Travis7109]

Alternatively you could have just made the clip with a ring on the end big enough for the screw peg to hold it to the board.

[@lotus4665]

hi engineer here, just use ductape next time, you are welcome :)

[@miguelhidalgo94]

That's not engineering. But yes, it is awesome.

[@ianm1470]

I would like to be able to lock the swivelling piece in any position rather than have it free to rotate.

[@chrislambe400]

Refer to the flow diagram for engineers. Does it move Yes, should it move No -> Duct Tape

[@paulb36utube]

A blob of blu tac would have been easier.

[@dllsrsf]

Overengineered, just use double sided tape....

[@YoutubeChannel-my6sw]

Did this file get released yet?

[@only1muppet]

The one thing we need is a cheaper way to scan objects that doesn’t cost $500+

[@3DPrinterAcademy]

Photogrammetry?

[@DrTheRich]

Your phone camera?

[@SleepzyV]

finder keepers📌 but im getting a 3d printer sooon

[@cutty02]

if you design the threads right you will always end in the same place so it is very predictable

[@GingerHead.]

Why didnt you scan the car on a photocopier, import the pdf as a sketch reference in f360 using the dimensions of a sheet of paper. Trace over the boundaries of the car and then extrude it offset from the image so the car picture could fit inside the cavity with a pegboard dowel on the back. You could have mounted it without having the clip obstruct the image

[@_mr.boss_1308]

I’m gonna guess the guy did it this way to be universal for any photo. Plus this solution takes less than 5 mins to come up with and model. Your solution would be quick to model but a little overkill. I do think he could’ve made this better but only very minor ways like a lip on the clip, make it shorter and “skeletoned” to reduce print time, stronger clamp force, use less material, obstruct less of the image being held.

[@kylek29]

She hops like a true Karate master .. light on her feet, quick to strike, one with the universe.

[@CosmicHase]

Cost: ability to communicate with females.

[@ryanpatton1795]

too bad bambu lab destroyed the x1c, it was such a nice printer.

[@TheBryanEClark]

It bothers me how often he doesn't pronounce the D in 3D printer.

[@copperweave]

Seems over-engineered for something that could just be done by putting the picture between the bolt head and a nut.

[@somekindofworm]

You're overcomplicating things. Simple 360 round clip will do the trick

[@HgArgen]

(Aclaro que este es un comentario mala onda). Este pibe pareciera que nos está tomando de pelotudos 😂.

[@JohnVance]

TIL about threadboards

[@jdhd2837]

Firdt

[@TacitMarmot27121yt]

Hello

[@curtisnewton895]

it is

[@binthem7997]

dude I beg you. remove the music! it's so distracting and unnecessary. great video otherwise though. good job

[@Molas0]

peos

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Seemed a bit drawn out and dramatized for something relatively simple...not saying the the solution was bad tho 🤷🏿‍♀

[@TundeEszlari]

You are a very good KZbinr, can I get a comment heart?❤

[@bigbird4481]

@@LaneNeshiem-yq7dy I didn't think so at first because of how old the account it but someone probably just bought a old account