Will Thinner Oils Damage Your Engine?

[@EngineeringExplained]

*Clarification!* There still seems to be confusion about the viscosity decreasing with heat, yet the number is higher, for example 5W-30. 1. This is explained from about 1:05 to 3:05. 2. All motor oils (basically) will decrease in viscosity as they heat up (become thinner). 3. Motor oils will increase (become thicker) in viscosity as they cool (as demonstrated in the video with graduated cylinders). 4. A 0W oil has a lower viscosity than a 10W oil when it is cold (the number is lower). 5. A 40 grade oil is thicker than a 30 grade oil when it is hot. 6. A 10W-30 (as shown at 2:28) will be thicker at cold temperatures, but thinner at high temperatures, versus a 0W-40. 7. The rating is temperature dependent! There is a cold rating, and a hot rating, which comes from tests (shown at 3:17). 8. Even though the number increases as it gets hot (like 5W-30), the viscosity decreases. It means the oil behaves like a 5 grade oil when cold, but a 30 grade oil when hot. How? 9. Viscosity modifiers are molecules that expand as they heat up, which decreases how much thinner the oil gets as it heats up. It still gets thinner, but not as thin as it could get if the viscosity modifiers were not in there. This is what makes it a multi-grade oil. Because it behaves like different oil grades depending on temperature. 10. In summary, a 5W-30 will decrease in viscosity as it is heated, however its hot rating is a thicker grade oil than its cold rating. See plots in video (2:28) to see what this looks like.

[@bkdexter79]

You didn't say "always" enough. Now I'm gonna switch to sewing machine oil. Thanks! ;-)

[@HaywoodCrossJr]

I know you said to use what the Manuel recommends. I have a 1984 3.8l v6 gm motor. It’s an older motor a recommends sae30 non synthetic. Will it be safe and or better to to use the modern 10w-30 full synthetic?

[@cheeto4493]

If you could have got some, you should have done the beaker test with frozen 10 weight with frozen 10w-30 to show how the cooler oil acts like the lighter oil, and then straight 30 at high temp alongside 10w-30 at high temp.

[@philllsxga.7737]

This is a point less video!! The engine was engineered and tested with the oil the manufacturer recommends! I don't understand the misconception of motor oil!! USE WHAT YOUR OWNERS MANUAL RECOMMENDS!! You can't go wrong! Knowledge is power...

[@jeffhampton6972]

Thank you for the clarification! What has gotten me all these years (and perhaps some other viewers) was thinking the number was an absolute measurement of viscosity, hence thinking 30 would be thicker than 10 in a 10w-30 oil. Similarly, thinking that just a base oil would change it's grade number as temp and viscosity changed. It seems your "behaves like" statement is what I should have keyed in on. If I'm understanding now, a 30 grade oil will always be a 30 grade oil, regardless of what temp and viscosity it is at any given time, and the two numbers in a rating just signify different characteristics, and not straight up measurements of viscosity itself. Pardon my long comment, but basically THANK YOU. These videos are so informative.

[@John-md3ld]

As a Chemist, I can confirm that honey does have a higher viscosity than water.

[@EngineeringExplained]

Excellent, glad that portion was accurate!

[@crackedemerald4930]

As a bee, i can confirm too

[@danny1103]

As a Biochemist, I can confirm that honey does taste better than water even though it has a higher viscosity. Put an adequate amount in your body engine and it will convert into ATP and gives you energy boost.

[@marcosakiraclarosyamachi3092]

lol!!! I am not but we don't need to have a degree to realize honey have higher viscosity than water... but thanks for your help btw

[@whirving]

Too late for me, I've been dragging my hand through honey all morning.

[@mik12121212]

I had my subaru tuned by the leading engineer of mitsubishi's efi setup, when mitsubishi closed down here in adelaide/south australia, he started his own tuning business - steve knight racetech. He told me to go higher on the second number to 50 or even 60 (so 10w50) when I do track days or go drag racing, as the oil takes longer to be displaced in the bearings and will prevent spun bearings, and never go to a smaller number unless I wanted to spin a bearing. He built and rebuilt many race engines in his life. I follow that rule, and have never damaged an engine.

[@hochhaul]

That's changing as manufacturers are building their engines to be tailored to lower viscosity oils. They now have tighter bearing clearances, are engineered for high *flow* instead of high oil pressure, and use vane-style oil pumps that are optimized for the viscosity the engineers designed the engine to use. Contact the manufacturer if tracking a vehicle and are concerned about oil viscosity. Most will probably tell you to use a heavy weight oil on race day and immediately drain it out and replace it with the correct oil after racing.

[@wilson2455]

Toyota Australia originally recommended/used 0W-20 oil for their 2.8L Diesel 4WD engines to improve efficiency & fuel consumption. This oil was fine for day-to-day driving, however under medium to high load conditions (e.g. towing a caravan), the oil lost its lubrication ability which led to catastrophic engine failure(s). By swapping to 5W-30 or 5W-40, the oil maintained its lubrication properties under the harshest of conditions.

[@wingracer1614]

@@hochhaul That's true of street cars but if you actually read the manual for cars that might actually get taken to a track or drag strip, most will say to use something like 5w-50 for track use then immediately change back to 5w-30 or whatever before driving home. Ford Mustangs are an example of this and there are many others.

[@hochhaul]

@wingracer1614 That's what I said at the end of my comment. Oil temperatures can get significantly higher while tracking than a normal car will ever see.

[@aminalone]

How random, I'm Northern suburbs Adelaide, live Melbourne. I'm stage 2 255kw and 529nm using Motul 5-40w.

[@deane2974]

As with any car manufacturer there is always one exception to the owner's manual. The current Subaru engines all use the 0w20 oils. The same engine built in Japan all use the 5w30 oils. There are a great many cases of oil consumption in these engines in the US using the 0w20 oils. Most when moving to the 5w30 oils can eliminate the oil consumption issues. Since I live in an area that can have colder winters I elected to run 0w30 oils in my Subarus.

[@vipvip-tf9rw]

my jdm subaru used 0w20, it said that on oil change sticker

[@세나-b8s]

It is believed that the viscosity was lowered to increase fuel efficiency due to emissions regulations, so I think it may be better to increase the viscosity for fast-running cars.

[@VideoArchiveGuy]

Remember that cars are used much differently in Japan; you won't be driving at 80 MPH for six hours there.

[@Davido50]

Subaru's burn oil when new & old. Thats why I can never own one.

[@Davido50]

​@@VideoArchiveGuy Exactly. I avoid Subaru's anyhow. Don't like my engines to burn oil.

[@coryholbrook4643]

Thing with the manufacturer recommended oil weights is that they’re universal for climate regions. They’re meant for the dead of a Canadian winter or August in Texas so you CAN fudge those numbers depending on the climate where you live, just don’t go down (ie 5w30 to 5w20). Up though, especially for the year-round “hot” climates like Texas there is absolutely no problem raising those numbers. In fact it’s probably recommended. You’ll never have the low flow cold start problems to worry about but rush hour traffic on the freeway when it’s 105*F ambient and 130*F+ on the road with your AC cranking and no airflow through the cooling system your engine will appreciate the extra viscosity.

[@megachonk9440]

I've seen some owners' manuals (Kia, I think) where different oil viscosities are recommended depending on ambient temperatures ranges.

[@danielbal5272]

I agree. I have a shop here in Hawaii and we put 10W-30 in everything. Temp never goes below 50F.

[@foesfly3047]

I’m glad to see you are gaining industry respect. I don’t think GM shares their very expensive demonstrator models and research data with just Any KZbinr. You have earned this kind of recognition and I anticipate it’s going to continue.

[@ronp1018]

GM V8 engines are pretty much dinosaur engines compared to the Ford V8 modular engines.

[@dw8730]

@@ronp1018 And yet they still make great power and are cheap. I see LS swaps everywhere…..

[@brucejohnson8521]

​@@ronp1018look up 7 Marine. GM pushrod engine rules the outboard world. Once you put a huffer on an engine, cams don't matter worth the money they cost

[@ronp1018]

@@brucejohnson8521 oh, I thought you were talk about the crisscross with the Ford engines

[@clifford_2zero7]

​@@ronp1018 right! Seems wasteful to me for Ford to have all those extra parts and complexity for less power in the end. You'd think they'd go for higher numbers in their performance engines 🤷‍♂️

[@zhangshaozhou523]

Use manufacture recommended oil. Mazda RX8 has left the chat.

[@WarriorsPhoto]

That’s a great engine. 😉

[@saisokuhashiriya8069]

Lol..recommended...minutes later, seizing rotor........

[@C.Melgar]

13B RENESIS has left the chat, without compression...

[@leito1996]

together with 350/370z :P

[@arminask]

The secret to a long lasting RX8 engine is to never start it

[@SmilesPerGallon-]

“Always always always” as I drive back from Oreillys with 0w-40 for the winter. Great video

[@billgardiner9305]

Loved the water skiing analogy as it relates to the piston to cylinder wall interface.....very clever !!

[@DiscoFang]

jet guy A human body itself would be a better example. If you hit the water tangentially at very high speed, you’ll skim on the surface. If you hit tangentially at low speed, you’ll submerge. No skill involved.

[@turbinepower77]

I'm an aircraft mechanic and I used to work in gas turbine engines.(jet engines) The synthetic oil used in those engines that reach 60 000 rpm was so thin you couldn't tell the difference between the oil and the jet fuel.

[@robertficek7586]

Makes sense, protection of a journal bearing is mainly dependent surface area, speed and sheer stress of the oil film

[@AmericanThunder]

Sounds like it's close to diesel oil

[@Rorschach1024]

@Tah BOO in a jet engine, the bearings are hydrodynamic. The rotation of the shaft creates a boundary layer and the shape of the bearing has shallow semi-circular pockets machined into the bearing on either side of the loaded area (the oil inlet is typically in these pockets as well.) that acts like a wedge to force the oil to compress in the areas that have higher load to maintain the oil film. Whereas hydrostatic bearings simply use the pressure generated by a pump to force oil into the annular area between the bearing and the shaft.

[@billsmith305]

So what are you saying ?

[@TheWolf133]

Was it a 1.9 tdi in the aircraft by any chance?

[@Uracantaino]

Mazda recommends 0W-20 for my engine. For the same engine, in Italy Mazda recommends 5W-30. Why? I suspect 5W-30 is a better oil for this engine and there are no CAFE requirements in Europe.

[@mogators]

So what are you running in it? I had the same observation on my new Mazda and was wondering if it would be better for the engine to run 5w-30.

[@marcinsmolinski903]

@@mogators 0w-20 is for fuel efficiency but the difference is maybe 3%. 5w-30 is better protecting

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@mogators For sure during the summer, but 0W20 is rated to roughly 70F by every online viscosity chart, so below 60F 0W20 "should" be fine.

[@calvinnyala9580]

Italy has a Mediterranean climate. Yours could be colder

[@ampm9771]

In Europe, Mazda's first recommendation is 0w20, Mazda recommends 5w30 next to 0w20.

[@dexterking7662]

I was always told by a good family member who was a mechanic it’s thinner oil in the winter so the engine warms up faster and a heavy oil in the summer because the engine gains more heat and so far I’ve been doing it past 35 years I don’t have a problem

[@yasir6402]

Heard this everywhere here in Saudi Arabia. Nobody would recommend a 0w-20, they would all recommend a heavier oil like 5w-20 or even 10w-20 😅

[@steverugerguy9606]

​@@yasir6402my manual says 0w20...i use 5w20....works great.

[@wolfvash22]

It doesn't really make much sense, but I may be getting the idea wrong. The metals of the engine expand as it heats up (as well as the oil thins) but if it has its thermostat installed, once the working temperature is reached, it will remain the same regardless of exterior temperature, unless an extraordinary situation is happening or something is not properly working in the whole system.

[@wolfvash22]

​​@@yasir6402There is no significant difference between the mentioned oils if you are in a warm/hot weather, all of them behave like a grade 20 once the engine is hot.

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@yasir6402 That's no good, that first number is the Winter or start up rating, for a hot climate the second number needs to increase. I read a post from Australia where he says they're using 20W50 in their Kias, and not having near the problems we in the US are having with 5W20 and lower.

[@theslimeylimey]

When the automotive industry talks about 'adequate protection' for the 'life' of the engine what they really mean is that it won't fall apart or start smoking during a cars typical life span. That does not automatically mean a different oil won't offer more protection or extend the life of the engine. I'm skeptical of claims the automotive industry make. Automatic transmissions that are 'superior' to manuals for example where they are horribly programmed and refuse to dowshift yet upshift at every opportunity because drivability was tossed out the window in favor of fuel economy.

[@MrReese]

That's exactly what I wanted to write. A manufacturer claiming "wear is not an issue"...really? You mean for 10 years after which we should buy the newest model, right? Fk that, I stay with my 5W-40 fully synthetic SynPower. Manufacturers put thinner oil as the suggested oil to get better mpg but that of course will protect the engine less.

[@jasonb5898]

Cafe standards rule the day. Whats next, water 5 weight :-)

[@MrDLRu]

It's all about the film/shear strength of the oil. Viscosity has nothing to do with it. Take a look here: (540ratblog.wordpress.com)

[@theslimeylimey]

@@MrDLRu I'm not going to read an article claiming viscosity _has nothing to do with it_. Viscosity is arguably the most criticsl property of a lubricating oil. VIscosity, pressure and velocity is what determines film thickness. If viscosity didn't matter, differentials would use ATF fluid.

[@halfmoa]

Gotta love an automatic transmission that hits third gear at 12 mph, half throttle with the torque converter locked up paired to a 4 cylinder making 35lbft at 1100 rpm...

[@sptrader6316]

I just hope that going with lower viscosity oil to increase efficiency by 1%, is not causing 10% shorter engine life. I'd like to see data that proves that engine life isn't sacrificed at all.

[@michaelbenardo5695]

I have trouble believing that super-thin oil will have sufficient film strength.

[@brycenator]

@@michaelbenardo5695 Then how do you explain cars using 0w-20 oil going over 250,000 miles?

[@michaelbenardo5695]

@@brycenator How can that be possible? 0w-20 hasn't been around long enough for that.

[@IKnewMickey]

5 yrs ago NASCAR teams used 0W8 oils. Film strength issues didn't appear.

[@michaelbenardo5695]

@@IKnewMickey Wierd. Although you have to remember, racing engines are overhauled after every race, so as long as it doesn't lose power during the race, condition after the race is not that important.

[@henrikrolfsen584]

Climate plays a major role in oil selection. If you live in Chicago, extremely cold starts are normal in winter. A lower "W" number can save your engine, and allow for faster warm up. But, if you live in Los Angeles, winter freezing are not an issue. During sustained driving on long freeways, and highways, and especially long trips through desert conditions, means your high end viscosity can become critical. It is always smart to allow warm ups before driving after long cold nights. Change your oil before it begins to break down. This keeps internal dirt, tar, and debris to a minimum. Always use better brand filters!

[@davepaturno4290]

AND ALWAYS USE THE VISCOSITY SPECIFIED IN YOUR MANUAL.

[@LuisXGP]

Saying "use what your manual recomends" is just like taking a back seat. Of course for warranty issues and other things, using the spec in the manual is usually what will avoid problems. But it is not a coincidence, that thicker oils have been used for high milleage motors (like 20w-50 for over 150k km) and that is the part we need to be explained.

[@afellowinnewengland6142]

Required oil viscosity is dependent on your main and rod bearing clearance, oil operating temperature, load, cylinder finishing and oil pressure dependent systems (example:cam phaser)....Putting 20w-50 into an engine which is burning oil can indeed improve cylinder wall seal in some cases, BUT you're starving bearings and causing a host of other issues (especially at startup). I should point out though that 150k km is not high mileage if the vehicle has been maintained properly. 300k km and over I would begin to consider as high mileage.

[@petemacrae5982]

That's the best looking, cut away motor, I've ever seen!

[@anthonyxuereb792]

I've seen a VW V10 diesel that looks as good and a big Cat truck diesel and some others, but yes it is good looking.

[@legsofsteel1]

Best cut away was a v12 Merlin.

[@russellnotestine6436]

I thought the same thing

[@donfinkey692]

Wow, I’m a 67 year old guy who just learned some thing new! My 19 Camry uses 0 W 16 and I was wondering how could this oil protect my motor. Thank you.👍🏻

[@dondominic7404]

Hi Don from Don

[@will3tm]

Don Finkey, 0W oil is for new cars that have gasoline direct injection (gdi). 19 Camry use gdi so you NEED to use a 0W rated oil to avoid oil dillution issues.

[@656hookemhorns]

It will get you through the warranty period, but if you want it to last it won't.

[@rikig6637]

@@656hookemhorns It's a Camry of course it'll last lol

[@federicotorresbordils7624]

@@will3tm How protects a thinner oil 0w a GDI combustion chamber better than a 5w? thank`s in advance BimmerN53

[@TPEvans]

Tell us about the EPA's role if "encouraging" the use of lower viscosity oils. Years of observation of the EPA informs me their emphasis is solely on fuel economy with zero emphasis on reliability or longevity.

[@AA-tb7rg]

Amen

[@Edward-tp5nc]

We are living in a communist country. And that has to change.

[@m8s4lif]

It does appear that during the last 20-25 years we have had some real problems with both some engines and transmissions because of the influence of the EPA. Lower tension piston rings, and CVT transmissions. We need to get back to building both engines and transmissions with the goal of making them last as long as posable.

[@Laphoot]

Amen

[@calvinnyala9580]

If it's not written, it's not followed. Remember, companies can and will pay you zero wages if minimum wage isn't written down and enacted

[@SkaBob]

You can usually drop the cold number with no issues. Cars from 20-30+ years ago may call for 5-30 or 10-30 because there was no 0-30 available at that time and the dealers dealers would have to stock a new oil. I run 0-30 in older cars and trucks at our landscaping company and in my personal cars we had no oil related failures. A 0 weight oil may even provide better protection since it can quickly get into all areas of a cold motor.

[@difsid569]

have you used 0W oils in cars from around 1995 - 1999 ? i read in the owner manual that 5w30 viscosity oils should only be used for cars from 2000 and later

[@SkaBob]

@@difsid569 I have used 0-30 in older cars. Some car makers like BMW put out notices saying the newer 0w-30 oil can be used in cars requiring 5w-30.

[@ianspeckmaier9565]

@@difsid569 Noack volatility affects how fast oil burns off on an older engine

[@dazeen9591]

Well yeah 0W is obviously going to be better at winter than 10W

[@dr.mikejohnson571]

Guys... IT ONLY DEPENDS ON AMBIENT TEMPERATURE. If u live in a warm climate... RUN 15W-40 synthetic DIESEL OIL, and your engine will love you forever. If u live in Montana like me, I run 5w-40 year around, and plug my truck in when it's below 10°

[@jdwisdom9433]

Just subscribed and I'll tell you why. Instructions were clear and concise without overbearing music to contend with, really no "extras" thrown in just to hear your head rattle, and finally camera work was well done without shaking or wondering. This should be a lesson for other KZbinrs. Thank You, JD

[@punjabob]

He's right, nobody with a Corvette cares about fuel efficiency.

[@TheCulnes]

Actually corvettes are known for getting very good mpg due to low rpm torque and tall gear ratios combined with very good aerodynamics. Alot of the modern ones were getting upwards of 30 highway which is quite decent

[@SamFBM]

exactly nobody buys a vette for moving from a to b efficiently

[@Lobstah2448]

@@TheCulnes Agreed. I can easily get 30mpg doing 70mph on the highway in my 2012 corvette.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

In my moderate climate near Portland OR, I use RedLine 20-50 in my LS-1 powered 1998 Corvette witch is fitted with a higher numeric ratio diff, that decreases top speed, decreases mileage, and increases acceleration. I dont give a rip about milage. Thin oils are there to increase CAFE mileage numbers, NOT reliability over time. When I was younger I knew professional race engine builders. When they built a drag engine that only needed to last a few seconds, they used exceptionally thin oils for max power. When the built an endurance racer, they built for 40 or 50 wt oils, and beat it into my head for longer life I should be using 20-50. I have seen hundreds of common street engines shredded to crap at 90,000 miles on that thin crap oil used for high MPG... and many running fine at 300,000 when they live with higher viscosity and 'stickier' surface adhesion oils. You all can keep the shitty thin oils and I'll see ya looking for a new engine, or at the freaking crusher, at 120K miles

[@jamesyoung5610]

KZbin ECOVETTE, VETTES ARE UBER FLEXIBLE CARS

[@QuantumS1ngularity]

On my current car Audi recommend 5W30, but on a couple of occasions i found it too thin for the summer in the traffic jams to the point where the "low oil pressure" lamp came up so i drove it to the garage and after they disassembled the entire engine found out there was actually nothing wrong with it, it was just the oil wasn't viscous enough at these high temperatures (usually anything above 40°C). And because there wasn't 5W40, went for the 0W40, the problem went away immediately and later in the year i found it helps for much smoother starts in the cold winter mornings and nights. It's strange however that manufacturers don't include table with different climates and recommendation of oil grade. I remember in my 1990 VW Corrado manual the 15W40 was recommended but in temperatures lower than -15°C or altitudes above 1500m the 5W40 was noted as well as when there's a lot of short city driving.

[@Tiagomottadmello]

Nice comment ! 👍👍. Helped a lot to illustrate the concept broght by the vídeo.

[@MURDOCK1500]

That's an interesting comment. My 1998 Honda Valkyrie motorcycle handbook as a recommendation for different oil grades for different climates. 5w30 for very cold. 10w40 normal and 20w50 for very warm. I run 10w40 although I've tried 15w50

[@rowentan]

I've seen technicians at dealership using 0w-20 oil for cars that are supposed to use 0w-30 in tropical weather. I looked up the manual and it specifies that 0w-20 is supposed to be used on cold weather and winters and not for summer / tropical weather. So always lookup in the owner's manual. The oil gets thinner when the operating temp gets higher. If you drive your car hard then please select the heaviest weight oil specified in your owner's manual.

[@dr.mikejohnson571]

Read my posts above. 0W-20 is for Nome AK in January.

[@R3APER50]

Going to be honest, unless you plan on keeping it a half a million miles or racing hard events it's not going to make much difference for the average owner to put only a 10 weight difference from the manual.

[@dr.mikejohnson571]

@@R3APER50 Disagree... but in a positive way 👍 All this new BS recommendation for 0W-20 or even 5w-30 in warm climates shortens the life of rhd motor A LOT vs 10-40. I run 10-40 with STP in the summer, and 0W-40 with STP in the winter. 0W-20 is for friggin Nome AK from December 1 - April 15, and sure as hell isn't for ANY warmer climate - but they "recommend" it because they know people expect a motor to only last

[@joesalazar770]

Let's not forget how they call this oil reverse comparable. Which is not true. Plus they have removed most of the zddp because of the I'll effects it has on emission control devices.

[@james10739]

Ya I usually run 10w 30 on out 5w 30 vehicles sometimes going into winter I'll get 5w 30 but I live in Central Texas so it's fine

[@alexrossmann7672]

"Use what the manufacturer recommends" ...until they recommend a lower viscosity on the same motor later in production to increase fuel efficiency at the expense of wear.

[@danhg3885]

Ford 5.4 L Triton has left the chat.

[@MH-wo4be]

@@danhg3885 Ding ding ding we have a *@*##@$&% winner!!!!!!!!!

[@piesmacker7159]

My car has a 10w40 recommendation but I find that the engine sounds like it’s running dry while cold if I use that so I switched to 5w40 and it runs marvellously now

[@KiranPatel-fk1pg]

Can someone answer why dont we just use 0w 60 so that we have the ability to run smooth really hot or really cold?

[@Morpheas001]

0-40 is the closest I've seen on shelves, and that's what I like to use.

[@mikesage9544]

Over 35 years ago, I was studying electrical engineering in Kingston UK. We were lucky enough to have two lecturers with a boundless depth of subject knowledge and were equipped with the means to communicate that knowledge. I said at the time that as students we were enjoying a charmed education. Your presentation and communication skills mirror those days. Fantastic! Oh! And one more thing, thanks. Mike. RIP Tom S.

[@hazwell6811]

Hello, everyone. What are your thoughts on mixing Marvel Mystery Oil with synthetic 5w30 motor oil? Marvel recommends replacing up to 20% of your engine oil with MMO, but MMO is a lubricant with a thin viscosity and would seemingly lower the 5w30. Does this mean that MMO would harm an engine that specifically calls for 5w30?

[@markdavid4897]

@@hazwell6811 I personally never mess with these great oils. They perform so well, something like MMO can't improve it and would likely degrade the oils performance. Snake oil isn't real oil.

[@gehaberl]

The thinner recommended oil contributes to lifter/rocker arm bearing failure on Chrysler 3.6l pentastar engines. Earlier engines used thicker viscosity and did not suffer lifter failure at same rate. Pentastar tick is becoming very common.

[@master6435]

Well those engines the heads like cracking

[@OutnBacker]

I have a 2012 RAM 1500 with the 3.7L - which is often maligned. It only has 83K on it, and of course, runs perfect. But it has the tick. Not sure what it is, but it ticks. It calls for 5W-20. I tried 10W-30 one time and the rengine immedeately objected: pinging, delyaed acceleration - like the timing was off. So, I guess I'll just have to wiat and see if the engine holds up with the -20 oil. Reviews mostly say they are good motors but don't usually go more than 200K. Oh well... I miss my old Slant Six.

[@gehaberl]

@@OutnBacker not sure if it is the same but I would probably pull the valve cover and check for any rocker arms with failed roller bearings. Happened to my 3.6 around 100k

[@OutnBacker]

@@gehaberl I'll probably do that at some point in the near future. I justgot an old Grand Cherokee (95) that has become my daily driver, so the issue can wait. The 4L in the Jeep is solid.

[@kenbarnes8859]

Bad designed motor that pentastar motor is ! Between lifters eating camshafts and lifter rollers coming apart don't forget about oil cooler leaking into oil system to but u forgot is a piece of ahit Dodge motor enuff said

[@robertbweltzien]

My '12 KIA turbo specs 5W-30. Original motor knocked at 122K and was replaced. We had a hot summer in CT this year, I used 5W-40. Now it's winter and I'll use 5W-30. Changed every 4K. These engines sludge and carbon up very easily and with the direct fuel injection I use a catch can.

[@joesalazar770]

All these new oils are claiming to be reverse comparable what they are not telling us is what they have removed from the oils to decrease wear. And it is dramatic look into the hole history of oils it explains everything but they have removed those elements that harm emission control systems at the expense of longevity. And it cuts the longevity more than half. Good luck hope I helped.

[@Dansk55]

Kia... That was your first problem not oil

[@MJT-DA]

@@Dansk55 122miles isn't bad for an engine. I'd like to see a bmw even hit 100k

[@Fluffynator-hm5hq]

@@MJT-DA my dads e46 is on 168k miles

[@dr.mikejohnson571]

Turbos MUST HAVE 40 WT OR HIGHER in warm weather/climate. Ambient temperature is the ONLY deciding factor for using the "recommended" BS 20s and 30s. WHY do diesels run ONLY 40 wt.... because they'd burn up in 1/5 the time with a 20 or 30 wt

[@hiscifi2986]

Some old motorcycle engines had components that were exposed and never saw any oil at all... Such as the tappets on the exposed valves of a 1930s Douglas. The metal was so glass hard that it didn't wear. Also most two stroke engines are lubricated with petrol that has just 1/50 th part of oil in it.

[@davidlane9609]

The real question is: can a high mileage car run on the same oil grade than the one when it was new? Do climate play a role in oil viscosity?

[@coryholbrook4643]

Yes, climate plays a huge role in oil viscosity. Hot climates like in the southernmost states of the United States don’t often or continuously stay at or below freezing so thin oils are not needed for cold start flow. The thin oils are for the subzero winter dwellers anyways. But summertime temperatures are much higher thereby increasing engine operating temperatures and oil temperatures, especially if one commutes in high population density metropolitan areas where traffic is a common hinderance. With old engines, if it’s a properly maintained system bearing wear should still be minimal even after 100,000 miles. Bearing clearances are what affect oil pressure the most so as long as those remain good thicker oils will do nothing to extend engine life. Cylinder wear isn’t really an issue on modern fuel injected engines unless, again, the vehicle’s maintenance history is just abysmal. But cylinder/ring wear is what usually causes oil consumption but with worn bearings or worn cylinders thick oils are just a bandaid over an amputation, they won’t save your engine, they may not even buy you time. They just make you feel better until the inevitable happens. Should’ve changed the oil on time and used a quality filter.

[@juliogonzo2718]

I would only run thicker oil if it burns it. Thats the only thing Lucas Oil Stabilizer is good for, smoky tailpipe, and people put it in perfectly good engines for some reason.

[@08-197rs]

Agree 115k on my engine and switched oil from a 5/30 to 5/40, with a Lucas oil stabiliser, runs so much better and doesn't burn through it 🤷🏼‍♂️, live in Scotland also

[@shifty2755]

@@coryholbrook4643 Nice

[@dgozacHM]

@@coryholbrook4643 question. I have a 2002 Chevy Avalanche with 183k miles on it. In the summer months im using 10w40 and in the cold months 10w30. Should I drop to a 5w40 in the cold months based on the info you and the video provided and keep using 10w40 in the summer?

[@Memento-_-Mori-_-982]

I use a 0w instead of the recommended 5w on my car, but I live in Canada 🇨🇦. So the 0w is definitely better in -30 celsius.

[@johannkuhn5685]

Like how turbo BMW owners here in ZA tend to use 5W40 instead of the 5W30 that BMW sells. Because of the heat of the turbo (and out climate), the thinner oil tends to break down more easily.

[@zonie1953]

I"m the opposite ! I live in Arizona, supposed to be 48 C here today . I worry about 0w20 oil protecting my engine here. But my car is 4 years old with 100,000 km and runs like new. So I guess its doing its job !

[@Memento-_-Mori-_-982]

@@zonie1953 you could go with 0w-30 in that case

[@anbax]

The thinner the base oil, the higher the loss of evaporation (with the same quality). keep that in mind.

[@thejarrod123]

Your engine will explode any second. 💥

[@amojak]

part of the issue of changing viscosity is also the oil pumps flow rate and pressure relief valve. if you use a thinner oil then you could end up with low oil pressure at low revs. if you use thicker the pressure relief valve will bypass and reduce the flow around the engine.

[@bgood213]

Will this really make a difference in fuel use.

[@ianspeckmaier9565]

Wrong, bypass functions on pressure differential not absolute pressure.

[@annacermed4468]

Whenever I see you I run catching my notebook . So much details so much learning. Thanks a lot.

[@tedbonbrake1967]

That cut-away engine is a work of art. I would have that in my living room as a sculpture (if my wife would let me...).

[@deere3321]

I was thinking the same thing. Maybe in the bedroom. I don't want to take up any floor space in my shop.

[@alphagt62]

I could stare at it for hours.

[@highpointsights]

You may or may not have seen a line o type machine. They were for casting a "line of type" when newspapers were printed with melted/cast lead type. There was a period where you have them for hauling then away. I said the same thing. I'd have one in my living room for that very same reason. My wife of now 43 years would have put out a contract on me:)

[@johnnellis3025]

@Ethan Wood I also wear the pants in the family!, and i have my wife's permission to say so!

[@tedbonbrake1967]

@Ethan Wood I'm surprised your wife allowed you to comment in this way.

[@aname3017]

That demo with the grad cylinders was great. Thank you.

[@dustin9967]

Thanks for the video. The EPA is ruining the ICE. For example, take my 2.0T Honda Accord. 0W-20 is the spec for North American vehicles. However, other parts of the world call for 5W-30. Additionally, fuel dilution is a major issue with Direct Injection engines, like mine. The thinner the oil, the more damage fuel do to the oil. These long intervals are a nightmare for long term internal damage to a motor because of that. I'll be running 5W-30 on 5,000 mile OCIs from now on, on all of my Honda engines.

[@Iahusha777Iahuah]

0w is better for starts. Cold or not cold.

[@wolfeadventures]

Many engines are speced for thicker oil in countries with no CAFE standards. The oil passages are Not smaller on these engines that spec thin oil in the US. Not sure who keeps perpetuating this myth.

[@loseerich493]

In reference to CAFE ICE vehicles & Non-CAFE ICE vehicles...Are there any differences any where along the lines outside of oil passages though...? as in emissions things downstream in the exhaust track. @@wolfeadventures

[@wolfeadventures]

@@loseerich493 nothing requiring thin oil.

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@Iahusha777Iahuah In warmer climates, the 10W30 will not go back to the oil pan as fast when the engine is off.

[@tuffytoys9707]

The last few minutes explained it all simply for me to understand. Thanks.

[@charliedee9276]

3:31..Q Jet baby! Easily the coolest sounding secondary howl ever!

[@williamkirkpatrick1054]

With a 2 1/4" secondary and 850 CFM w 1 3/8" primary. The air door spring can be adjusted for peak power or response. Also sound. Very tunable carb. to get what you need.

[@Chris_Troxler]

"Always use what's recommended in your owner's manual." Me, channeling my inner Derek while buying a gallon of Rotella 15w-40 and a bottle of Lucas for my F-350: "It's got dinosaurs and vitamins in it. Plus, it was on sale."

[@Adam1nToronto]

Derek is hilarious, and quite capable. Look up Vice Grip Garage.

[@trumpisaconfirmedcuck5840]

Derek put gear oil in his crank case, lol.

[@rokitman5753]

Nope

[@markspencer9743]

@@trumpisaconfirmedcuck5840 , If you've ever bought a car from a used car dealer, you can be sure that there was at least a percentage of gear oil in the crankcase. They buy that stuff in 55 gallon drums, and it makes even the most worn engines run quieter and stop burning oil.

[@nou8257]

I just run straight 50W in my non diesels...

[@georgecolbert3247]

Good video. Other things to consider: Over time engines have been designed with tighter bearing clearances, thus the thinner oil is needed. On the other hand, ring seal will suffer if the oil is too thin resulting in loss of power. under load.

[@fishman80]

its cafe. the silverado and corvette have the same clearances yet one says use 0w20 the other says 5w30 up to 20w50.

[@charlespratt8663]

You will need a different weight oil depending on your location. Think UAE vs Alaska. Most manufacturers recognize this.

[@johnw4067]

My 2019 Toyota Tacoma 3.5L uses 0W20. 10K KM intervals. I have seen quite a few used ones with 200-250K on them already and still going strong.

[@followufollowme]

Mazda 3, 0w20, 420 000km. Fuel consumption was about 8L/100km. Body is dead but engine runes fine.

[@lonniebeal6032]

At what outside temps? I doubt a car would last in AZ with that oil used yearly.

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@followufollowme Same question to you, what was the average outside temp? I only have about 3 months of over 70F and I will be using 0W30 and not 0W20 that's recommended during those months. Full synthetic naturally.

[@Deucealive75]

@@lonniebeal6032 The only concern with outside temps is during a cold start. How hot or cold it is outside means nothing once the engine is at operating temp. Even if the oil ran 10 or 15 degrees hotter in very hot weather that still would not be enough of a reason to run thicker oil. Air cooled engine yes, water cooled engines no.

[@chadbarger9808]

Absolutely correct, my car recommends 5w-30, but in Michigan during winter I swap to 0w-30 to help with cold start wear 🤙🏻👏🏻

[@Ashley_van_Schooneveld]

For some reason I found myself running 0W-40 all year round.

[@林振华-t4v]

@@Ashley_van_Schooneveld turns out it will work better - 10 W40. Lol, I need to change oil in the middle of winter one time around 0 degree celsius. I am not very impressive how the 0W floor. So, I put on 30 mind block heater once the night time temp drop below - 5 degree celsius.

[@ericmcdaniel4029]

I find myself hating my car during the winters in Michigan. I dread going out there to start it, cringing everytime hoping it starts. But I’ll be giving it a try to a 0w-30 for that reason.

[@robertt9342]

林振华 . I remember changing oil at -15C and watching the 5w30 slowly "pour" out. Makes me wish I was using 0w. I had a bottle of 10w30 and out of curiosity I wanted to see what that was like, the differences are more than I expected.

[@sammyd7857]

Put an electric hydraulic pump and heater

[@JeffBazell]

I love you because you said 'criterion' for singular rather than the plural version "criteria." BRAVO!

[@georgelewis3047]

I know the bar for literacy is very low these days, but congratulations for finishing high school?

[@petebach7221]

Pedantic

[@eurorealtors]

I went from 0W20 to 5W30 into VW 1,5 TSi engine with 2 cylinders deactivation. Our local weather is from -20 to +40 degree Celsius, and I believe 5W30 is the sweet spot. Car manufacturers are pressured by the EU to push the emission down so they put the low viscosity motor oils int their engines.

[@dougn2350]

What benefits have you noticed?

[@ellieprice3396]

I've used Pennzoil 5/30 Platinum synthetic for a couple of years now and noticed a definite increase in fuel mileage.

[@grantevans5664]

-20 to 40 c is definitely within the range that your engine was tested for. Use the manufacturers recommended oil. I promise you the engineers absolutely know better than you do.

[@Salvation4DJews]

@@grantevans5664 are these the same engineers that forgot to install trans dipsticks?

[@grante8]

@@Salvation4DJews they didn't forget. They purposely didn't install them. Most trans fluid these days doesn't follow the conventional wisdom (like color and mileage) therefore it just needs to be changed at a determined interval and there isn't a need to check it

[@bikeserv]

Did your homework man, glad to see someone telling the right things

[@grandetaco4416]

I liked the ball bearing test, I really would have liked to see the 0w version of the drop test though.

[@jaredjohansen2612]

Fritz Höppler would be proud

[@kamX-rz4uy]

There's very little difference between 10W and 0W at 0C. 0W is able to get much colder though before thickening up too much.

[@leoyru.3361]

@@kamX-rz4uy and at 20-30 deg Celsius, is there much dif between 10W -0W ?

[@kamX-rz4uy]

@@leoyru.3361 Not much difference to the eye, which would be true for two oils very close to each other on the SAE scale. The 0W will be little less dense and flow faster but not a huge difference. As temperatures rise it will be more dependent on the non-W number. It would have been interesting to see it compared to an SAE 60 oil.

[@TripleNpple]

With someone who drives a single cylinder going from 10w30 to 20w 50. My engine runs smoother and cooler I check temp with a temp Guage, and live in tropical climate I'm happy about the change. Operating temp went from 176 ° f To 146°f Manafactures says follow the chart

[@dougn2350]

I've found that using thinner oils results in moderate oil consumption. When I use 5W30 my 4 cyl car uses no oil between 5000 miles OCI. Using 5W20 the same engine is about 1/2 qt low by 5000 miles. The engine has 45,000 miles.

[@chocolatemilk2076]

Mix em

[@Richey4Fun]

Keep using 5-30. I switched for different reasons: 4.6 Ford V8 chain guide will fail early on 5-20. That got my engine going smooth to 215k before selling it with zero problems. Listening to smart a mechanic is always better than one that says 'always do what the manufacturer says'. Also, transmission fluid needs changing: unlike what the manufacturer says!

[@victorypledge3262]

You should be changing your oil at 3000 miles regardless of what the oil manufacture claims the oil can protect to no matter how good the oil is or how good your oil filter is the oil can not remain clean past 3000 mile or 3 months which ever comes first

[@kamX-rz4uy]

@@victorypledge3262 Good advice if you like to waste money or own an oil change shop. It depends on the engine and where and how you drive it. Oil coming out after 6,000 in one car can look like new while coming out of another at 3,000 can be dark and saturated with contaminants.

[@juanhermenegildo8806]

Of course it's going to consume because you are running a thinner oil at operating temperature which is probably slowly seeping into your combustion! I guess he didn't say it enough. Run what the OEM recommends.

[@bubbafats6246]

been running 0w-40 in all my vehicles for 18 years, never gad an internal engine issue. also i live in the northern midwest with cold snowy winters.

[@FoodOnCrack]

what does the motor call for?

[@ivenhoho]

@@FoodOnCrack It calls for its mommy at every startup.

[@patrickwelch620]

"As long as the engine lasts for the warranty period, we don't care what you put in it." -Ford Executive

[@Jedi391]

Who said that?

[@iBringTheRain24]

@@Jedi391 a Ford executive

[@emergencylowmaneuvering7350]

American Greed.

[@67marlins81]

Proof? Name the executive, and when this was documented. We'll wait.....

[@podatrb3360]

LoL parrot.. Ever worked on a french car?

[@Funkydood]

OW-8/OW-16/OW-2O are out of the question where I live (Puerto Rico): temperatures average 75°- 80°F during our "Winter". During Spring and Summer, they average 90-95°F...5W-2O is the thinnest motor oil I use during Winter. 5W-30 during Spring/Summer. 'Nuff said!

[@hardleecure]

"how cool is that engine" man, that finish they put on the steel is so enticing. I wish i could touch it.

[@jpezzy-3653]

Surprised he didn’t mention how some car manufacturers will have a graph in the owners manual telling you what viscosity to use depending on your average or ambient temperature where you live

[@z31rider24]

Definitely something to take into consideration. If you are in very hot weather or extreme cold. My car uses 5W 20. Currently weather is cold mornings and evenings. Summer time its very hot round the clock and I may switch to 5W 30. Both oils are full Synthetic for my 160,000K engine.

[@gweedomurray9923]

@@z31rider24 ~ Since a few years back I have gone to Castrol 5W-40 synthetic for my now 356,400 K '99 Tahoe engine. Prior to that I had been using 5W-30 synthetic. I top up with either 5 or 10W-30 "organic" oil as I get it free at a county household hazardous waste facility. . They put out usable car chems and household cleaners, paint etc for take back which saves on the cost of paying Clean Harbors to take it away. I have about a dozen brand new unopened bottles of full strength anti freeze and a nice supply of Dexron 3 for the transmission. More places should have such a program tho' it is costly to run and the take away fees for "disposal" are not cheap. Large metro areas should be able to budget for this kind of environment saving measure.

[@Rorschach1024]

True fact! I live in Houston. We RARELY have freezing temperatures, but routinely have temps over 100F in the summer, and that does change things significantly, especially with stop and go driving.

[@jimstenlund6017]

@@Rorschach1024 you’re sure about that? Does the oil temp actually get higher in ‘stop and go traffic’? Oil companies like to convince us that this is ‘severe service’ but in reality it’s not. Track days in high heat, that is severe.

[@Rorschach1024]

@@jimstenlund6017 given that I'm in Houston where summer lasts 9 months out of the year, yeah, it most definitely gets pretty toasty.

[@hustler539]

As a sales person in a parts store, I can tell you it's very frustrating and cringeworthy when someone comes in and wants 20-50 for their everyday driven 4 cylinder Honda/Toyota, etc. This happens often. I always recommend sticking to what's marked on the oil cap.

[@Achiyugo]

As the engine gets older and begins using oil the higher hot weights help prevent seal leakage.

[@kking5652]

When you put 20-50 in your Honda engine you’re just experimenting, not knowing the outcome.

[@billsmith2212]

When the mileage is high , try high mileage oil . They have additives designed for these engines .

[@dubblyewjay1133]

@@billsmith2212 or try straight Bardahl or STP oil additives in smokers and high milers. Even today you can get a 90's foreign car or van for $500 and keep it running. I've done it for years ever since our avionics tech showed me he ran his V8 Chev pickup (vintage about 1970's) on non-detergent 30 weight oil. I went him one better and drained all the oil and run straight STP (or Bardahl if I can ever find it anymore. The only caution is NEVER rev it cold- it's like molasses when cold.

[@MisoElEven]

@@billsmith2212 Or change it more often..

[@bxtremefitness5428]

-0w30_for coldest months_Little Thinner Best protection for cold cranks and wear. -5w30 or 0w40_for all year round is balance. -5w40_for Summer months_little thicker was popular 10years ago and vehicles are reliable Also best for warm places like 10w30. -10w40 is thicker best for tropical or hot places all year round. -Addition: 5w50 and 10w50 is high performance horsepower or racing. Note: oil gets thinner when engine is running due to hot temp, no protection when its too thin and it will have leakage and it will evaporate and lose oil. Your oil viscosity depends on weather and type of use of vehicle. Hauling towing racing high performance torque and hp of use best is 40 or 50 viscosity or even 60 for super cars.

[@prawny12009]

10w-30 and straight 30w will be identical viscosity at operating temperature. This is one of the reasons old engines running mono grade oil needed warming up properly.

[@905fredy123]

So if I have a 1997 Northstar and it calls for 10W30 but I only drive it in the warm summer months, should I/could I run straight 30 weight instead?

[@MrUppmas]

@@905fredy123 Modern synthetics are just better overall compared to mono-grade oils. But theoretically you could. There's just no real benefits.

[@jimstenlund6017]

@@905fredy123 The vast majority of wear occurs when the engine is ‘cold’ ( 100f is still cold ). Plus your oil pressure will spike until it’s warmed up, putting stress on seals.

[@marccrotty8447]

@@905fredy123 The Northstar has a 100% failure rate for head gasket leaks. The head bolts are secured in the alloy block and pull out a little over time. There is an expensive retrofit/process kit to install steel helicoils in the block.

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@905fredy123 No, that 10 is for start up...

[@brainfarth]

I accidently ran Dexos 2 5w 20 instead of 5w 30 in my Colorado Diesel 2.8(around later winter). After 3000 miles, I did an oil change and checked the oil with a NAPA test kit. The results recorded no issues with the oil.

[@gssf.gr29]

3000 miles wouldn't make any noticable difference pretty much regardless of what you put in.

[@Salty_reviews]

Oil lubricates the engine Dodge 5.7 camshafts and lifters left the chat.

[@gwmier]

6.4s too, we just lost one at 40k miles. Horrible design failure!

[@Salty_reviews]

@@gwmier My 6.4 is going to the dealer with lifter tick at 10k

[@Txcowboy80]

@@Salty_reviews damn!

[@BenefitExploits]

This is why I'll never buy a Hemiroid

[@JOutterbridge]

@@gwmier it's terrible. Dodge probably wishes there was a -5W16 oil or something lol

[@shiloh5199]

I actually remember the days of factory carburated vehicles and running a thinner oil in the winter. Good stuff and brings back positive memories.

[@squangan]

Yes, the days of 10-30 in the summer and 5-30 in the winter along with letting the engine warm up on high idle in the winter before ‘kicking it down’.

[@georgelewis3047]

I too am nostalgic for the stench of unburned hydrocarbons gushing from these classics! I also miss the waterbed suspension characteristics of my dad's 1967 440 CID Newport.

[@rideyamahablue]

I know Ford recommended 5w-20 on the 5.4s. I switched to 5w-30 at 178k. It sounds so much better. IMO thinner oils work great at 100k or less miles. After the engine gets some wear on it then i would go up slightly in viscosity.

[@specialopsdave]

That's a common problem, and why high-mileage oils exist, they tend to be slightly thicker

[@cbax864]

The original recommendation from Ford was 5W-30 and was changed to meet CAFE standards in 2001 as I understand. I have a 1999 F250 SD 5.4L all factory paperwork recommends 5W-30.

[@retardedpepega8831]

Car manufacturers may have more than just one recommended type of oil for the car model.

[@bekindandrewind1422]

Agreed.. As my 1987 chevy 2.8 wore, i'd increase the viscosity to take up the wear. By the time she left here running, I was @ 15w 40 with 400,000 miles. (started at 5w30)

[@robertholderman7552]

@@bekindandrewind1422 : SO SO CORRECT !!!!!!!!

[@phillipchan9020]

You truly are the best! Deep knowledge explained in vocabularies that are easy to understand. Captivating presentation too! Really appreciate your sharing of information!

[@jonmccormick6805]

3:35 An engine with a carburetor and distributor, cranking at a lower speed will, typically, still start. Fuel injected engines need faster cranking speeds to start. Otherwise, very old farm equipment with hand cranks wouldn't ever start. Dad's '37 Allis Chalmers at -20(f) was an excellent example. Nothing else would start that day.

[@SolGuy42]

I think it has to do with air flow required to suck gasoline from the carb effectively. If one is skilled with a bit of pumping the pedal and correct application of the choke all is good. Pressurized systems can apply the proper flow at any temp without such skill.

[@ecidemon5672]

They also had primer buttons or other ways to get fuel into the intake. Venturies only work with air speed.

[@jimstenlund6017]

An old tractor engine is a long-stroke design with a heavy flywheel meant for low-rpm running, I imagine that must help with cold starts.

[@Chickennss]

In the Tundra service manual for the 5.7L they recommend only 0W-20 in the US and as high as 20W-50 in the rest of the world for the same engine. 🙄

[@awaisiqbal8934]

I agree with you regarding the oil viscosity experimentation. I use 0w40 instead of 5w30 in my Toyota Corolla GLI 1300cc which is completely safe. I can opt to use 5w40 in summer when ambient temperature goes beyond 40C here in Lahore, Pakistan. In older model 20w50 was recommended, it could be due to availability of that type of engine oil only in those days. However, i personally focus on higher TBN and VI values for longer protection while choosing an engine oil

[@mohammaduzair816]

What to use in hybrid cars then when temperatures go beyond 40 to 45C and owner manual says to use 0w-20 only

[@awaisiqbal8934]

@@mohammaduzair816 you can use 5w30 it won't hurt fuel economy in summer and in winter 0w20 or 5w20 depending upon you car's overall mileage

[@mohammaduzair816]

@@awaisiqbal8934 yes i think then 0w-30 is best then for summer. But 0w30 is hard to find specially you dont know whether it is genuine product or not

[@awaisiqbal8934]

@@mohammaduzair816 yes I agree that 0w30 is not generally available in Pakistan

[@ilamalihilustan22]

My Corolla Altis is 170,000km driven on 20w50 oil, do you recommend me to switch?

[@lencac7952]

Back in the day when I was a Ford tech, Ford training classes always stressed that 90% of engine wear happens at cold start. So they want an oil that will come up to pressure quickly when started.

[@mem1701movies]

Have a FORD 500 and a dealership (not FORD) who sold the car had an oil change deal. The car calls for 5w20 but they’ve been using 5w30. I noticed the gas mileage is bad. Have they been hurting the engine? It also smells like burnt rubber after driving.

[@lencac7952]

@@mem1701movies Hi Matt: Ford 500? what year, miles? However changing the oil from 5W20 to 5W30 is not going to cause the issues you mention. The car has other issues that need to be looked into. But making a slight change in oil grade is something that is not even noticeable. Nevertheless if memory serves me correctly the Ford 500 is notorious for poor fuel economy. Keep a close eye on the trans. Being a CVT I saw many failures of these.

[@winnebagus4476]

Interesting. I would not have guessed it to be that high. Therefore, would engine oil warmers help decrease long term maintenance costs for all engines in cold climates?

[@lencac7952]

@@winnebagus4476 I do believe that would be a help in cold climates. To what degree it would decrease start-up engine wear I'm not sure. Sounds like a good place to get a multimillion dollar gov't grant to find out though (-;

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@mem1701movies This video mentions that it is ok to increase summer viscosity, or decrease winter...

[@gssf.gr29]

Absolutely superb. Quite possibly the best explanation of how important the correct grade of oil is that I have ever seen. Looking forward to watching more.

[@jlo13800]

Today engines run on anti friction bearings so very limitless oil is needed to lubricate them.

[@bavarianaviationvideonews5870]

And yet theres still ***** out there putting thicker oil cuz they think this improves the lifespan of their engine 🤦‍♂️

[@baselhs]

Going higher in viscosity can damage the oil pump if it's not designed to handle heavier oil which could results in lower lubrication for all engine parts. I have the GM 6.2L engine in my Escalade, and I live in a hot climate area. These engines are already known for oil pump issues, and this is the only thing stopping me from going higher in viscosity than the GM recommended 0W-20.

[@rjaramilloco]

When you actually read the owner's manual, you find that it allows for running almost any multi-viscosity oil, if it meets a minimum service classification (e.g., SN or GF-5), depending only on ambient temperature.

[@Watchout1010]

When you put too thick of oil in a car with modern cam actuators and phazers and tiny oil passages-🚫🤜🤯

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@Watchout1010 Which is why the owners manuals have viscosity ranges.

[@Watchout1010]

@@lonniebeal6032 that is an unused accessory taking up room in the glovebox to most!

[@frandanco6289]

It's up to SP now so that is a good thing..

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@Watchout1010 What about the online ones?

[@jimmyaber5920]

Let’s talk about oil filter bypassing as viscosity goes up.

[@jamescaley9942]

Some old engines don't have a filter. You just change the oil more frequently.

[@ImnotgoingSideways]

Or idle oil pressure drop as viscosity goes down. Thank Berg for high volume pumps.

[@OGbqze]

Some old engines are.... Just shut the hell up.

[@adamkendall997]

@@FixingWithFriends some old engines are started using a shotgun cartridge.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

@@adamkendall997 Some old engines are.......just old ?

[@stan.jk3]

One notable exception to " use what the manufacturer says:" any EJ series turbo Subaru engine. Subaru initially recommended standard 5W-30 changed at 7500 miles. That would eventually lead to a blown turbo. Many owners use 0 or 5W - 40 to better handle the heat from the turbo.

[@TheGuruStud]

Same goes for nearly any engine. Always go up at least one grade. Take a gander at euro specs. They'll all say 40 weight while it's 20 garbage in US for cafe.

[@specialopsdave]

To be fair, 7500 miles is WAY too much for a turbocharged engine

[@Maromarix]

sorry, this is pretty complex isue and you missed the point. The quality of oil is decribed by API/ACEA number-description, the viscositu is completely different topic. The viscosity is mainly about ability to lubricate properly at starting engine temperatures. So 0W40 oil is for starting temperatures from -40 to +40C!!! It can be simply explained - extreme multigrade oils should help when you start your engine in pretty cold and pretty hot climates, but 3-5 minutes after starting ALL THE OILS HAVE THE SAME VISCOSITY! You can see that nicely on your diagram. So, do not spend your money on pricey 0W oils except you live in Syberia or Alaska. With mild winters in Europe you will be good with 10W oils which are cheaper.

[@bobbygetsbanned6049]

Being changed at regular intervals: except manufacturers are also competing to extend oil change intervals. The pursuit of efficiency increases has already caused lot of serious problems with reliability of engines. Piston rings are continually becoming more of an issue on high efficiency engines since piston rings are the #1 cause of friction in an engine. Combine extended oil change intervals, low ring tension, and thin oil and you get massive oil consumption, stuck rings, and scored cylinder walls on many modern "high efficiency" engines.

[@marvintpandroid2213]

Yep, and the long distance oil changes can be just about OK in a car that does 500 to 1000 miles a day and would be a total nightmare in one that just does 3 a day. As a rule of thumb change the oil twice as often as the vehicle manufacturer states if not more if you do a lot of short distance runs.

[@CadillacPat1]

@@marvintpandroid2213 Good rule of thumb! I concur. Oil is cheap. Engines are not.

[@dylonmc4323]

@@marvintpandroid2213 you guys are changing to your oil way way way to much. Stop wasting your money.

[@marvintpandroid2213]

@@dylonmc4323 oil is cheep

[@johnfranklin5277]

@@dylonmc4323 How many miles between oil changes do you recommend??

[@supatipanno]

The 0W/20 visocosity has been the reason for the large amount of engine lockups in the Jeep V8 Gasoline engines where the use of a 5W/40 should have been the correct choice....

[@diegopalomino1200]

Jeep sucks no matter what oil viscosity you use.

[@benji523]

Thanks for this! Lower for cold and higher for hot is the way to go! I will be using the oils that car manufacturers recommend for their most expensive flagship vehicles! 0W-40 makes perfect sense.

[@thisismagacountry1318]

Not if it has variable valve timing. It needs the correct weight to operate properly.

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@thisismagacountry1318 Some one posted that 0W20 flows the same at 35F that 10w30 does at 70F. If that were true, you could be using the right viscosity oil for the right temps.

[@donniebaker5984]

I had to learn this lesson the hard way cost me about $2,700 to figure it out I bought a mustang cover on time and after a few days I know it's just a little tiny sticker up in the windshield that said Quaker State 2015 on this car had less than 20,000 miles on it that was a very scary thing to see and immediately change the oil make sure what I'm putting in there... How's the car required 10w40 .... The camshaft clearance actuators were quite noisy and I went to a 2015 mobile one everything's back quite as normal..... Kenny Brown performance level 4 suspension plus a vortex supercharger .. change 02 to 30 and hydraulic actuators for the control of the camshaft to Valentine's was noisy again so I changed no oil to 20 W 50 mobile one... And lesson 2000 miles vortex supercharger that is actually a centrifugal the mechanical turbocharger spins very fast over 39,000 RPM burn the bearings out of the rotor shaft.... Vortec will not send you the parts to reveal it you have to Cindy see your charger to their Factory reliability or the ones authorized you open up there on superchargers cost me around 25 or 2700 to get it repair.... And that's why I saw this 0w-40 mobile one with a big label for turbo charged cars as that's basically what I was running with a mechanical version of it... Annoying to me there's a very tiny hole that allows very little oil to apply to the bushing so before I install my supercharger and decided to refill the temperature for a minute and I had pressure on that bottle for like 20 minutes and No oil actually come the return line but I did manage to get about a half a quart pumped into the supercharger mattered up never a problem again running the 20w-40 and the hydraulic actuators for the control of the camshaft clearance we're very quiet just to say plane W 50 prior so what did we learn you can make a compromise how to figure this cost and a 0w 40 email on cold startups at supercharger was almost instantly greeted with oil or as before with 20 W 50 apparently it wasn't getting enough oil if any at all so you can just about to be assured that 0w40 is going to lubricate all those little tight spots where an oil film is critical for the functionality of the parts like another coming or sit here that your 0w40 would not be adequate for variable timing camshaft contrary as those actuators are electric today and very tight tolerances.... Philadelphia would be superb especially cold weather. As there could be eight exception to this real for a 30 weight is the maximum zero w30 might be better depending on as they say they specifications of your engine just how tight the Thomases are built for an extreme example you can't start up a formula 1 engine until you warm up the coolant as the Pistons are so tightly fit they'll experience piston seizure almost immediately .... Another thing about mobile one that's was very impressive on Jason's garage Jay Leno owns a McLaren Open wheel formula 1 race car that he said to formula One track facility in Texas.... Asmo one who maintains the car from will not disclose the formula that's exquisite. Special top secret friend only allowed to be run in Jay Leno's particular car as small one makes specialized formulas for such individual vehicles so. Same old one knows a little bit more about lubrication than most any other company when they go to the trouble that blending one specialized oil for one specialized vehicle when they tell you what you need for it in your manufactured vehicle they're probably more correctly accurate than anyone else.... And always use 100% synthetic oil for everything..... There's a huge difference between 100% synthetic and all other oils... And here's the magic that was explained to me by an engineer at Marathon oil refinery in Robinson Illinois... As we know all the training products are a hydrocarbon chain and has these molecules of atoms break down all that's left is carbon that's not exactly a lubricant.... Synthetic oils all the hydrocarbon molecules are all exactly the same size every molecule of the synthetic to share the load bearing doing the metal to metal surfaces... Regular petroleum base there are no two molecules the same size so the big ones to get the beating first until they're destroyed then the next molecules are crushed because there's carbon chains blowing through there properties destroying the next molecules and so on to where a regular petroleum base break down very quickly very easily and are very harmful to your engine or mechanical devices.... This is why Cincinnati girls are much higher mileage oils which you shouldn't do but to get that oil out there before it becomes dirty because when it's black or getting dirty that's a sign that the carbon chain molecules are breaking down and the black is what is left of the carbon not as dangerous... Why take a chance you have the price of synthetic oil and it's still much cheaper than an engine... I bought my first almost new car 1969 Chevy Nova in 1970 19,000 miles on the car... I was working at my friend's son great Cadillac Pontiac and a lubrication technician and told me if you go to the parts counter and get your oil and filter I'll change it for you every 2000 miles for free as he seem to admiring and really like my little car.... And we begin changing oil every 2,000 MI to the point where the oil we were draining out it wasn't hardly dirty at all about the same color as all over a pouring back in I continue to do this for this car for the next 3 years after I even got another job... And when it's time in about 130,000 miles on this engine that was a 230 cubic inch 140 horsepower inline Chevy 6 And the cylinder head and replace it with a cylinder head from a 194 kid against Chevy inline 6 and the cylinder rolls of my original engine or gray shiny not glazed with the honing marks still in the boars as though they've just been done yesterday. Compression was dead on I traded the car even up for it Chevelle SS 396 4 speed and the new owner of my Nova 60 on our check the car to Indianapolis during the NHRA us Nationals and one the class for 6 cylinder pony cars sitting a new track record... And third runner up in final eliminations for super stock.. and a big gold cup plus $2,000 cash... The car's name was slowpoke the owner was Tom McCrary of West terre Haute Indiana

[@whitejodeci8926]

Makes me feel better about running 15w50 in my viper

[@michaellehmann2803]

The problem with just going with "what the manufacturer specifies" is that they frequently change this specification for the exact same engine. Ford's 4.6 and Chevy's 5.3 are both engines that were spec'd for 5W30 oil when they came out. Several years later, the same engine with the same bearing clearances is calling for 0W20. That is clearly an example of protection being sacrificed for fuel economy, and considering the cost of gas vs the cost of a replacement engine, I'll stick with my 5W30, at least in those applications. When a manufacturer starts giving 300K mile powertrain warranties, I'll listen to what they say without questioning it, but considering that they are perfectly content with the engine grenading any time after the warranty expires, if you want to keep your vehicle running for a long time, I suggest doing a little research on the history of your engine before deciding on an oil viscosity.

[@kenhoward3512]

Manufacturers specifying super-thin engine oil, sacrificing longevity to some degree because of intense pressure to maximize fuel economy ratings ("efficiency"), even if only by a fraction of 1 mpg, is what I've suspected. I can't blame them for their need to comply with fuel economy standards, but my priorities, as someone who keeps vehicles a long time, are different.

[@mikecee3058]

There's a whole lotta nonsense right there. For starters, 0W20 contains different additive packages than 5W30. And it's not all about bearing clearances; newer engines also use the oil for such things as active fuel management-the second gen and newer 5.3 engines use engine oil to modulate the engine valve function, whereas the first gen doesn't. There were also multiple versions of the gen 4 5.3 engine (iron blocks and aluminum blocks). The LH8 and LMF alone had completely different piston materials and design. Newer 5.3 engines either use AFM or the new Dynamic Fuel Management (completely different systems). Oil requirements can be different depending upon which engine code the vehicle has. And in case you didn't know it, the 2008+ 5.3s operate at almost 50% less oil pressure than the 1999 5.3s. Want to take a guess why? Contrary to the nonsense that you posted, the newer and older 5.3 engines are not "the exact same engine". And that's true for every manufacturer, not just GM.

[@XXMETAL4LIF3XX]

thank you for adressing this! i have a 2000 mustang GT which calls for 5w30 and the next year they went to 5w20. same engine!

[@mrbumcraic5046]

metal4life Not the same engine management and ancillaries

[@mikecee3058]

@Steve White There were a lot of changes to the 3.0 over the years. For example, in the early 90s the block was redesigned and strengthened and a roller camshaft was added, and the pistons were redesigned. In 1995 the intake manifold was redesigned, cam timing was changed, and a DIS was added. The horsepower varied between 135 and 155 depending upon the application that it was used in. That alone should tell you that there are differences in the tune between applications. The engine was backspec'd to 5w20 to 1993-the year of the addition of the roller cams. Quite frankly, there are thousands of Vulcans out there with 300,000+ miles running on 5w20, and still happily chugging along.

[@brianbanks3044]

i used to work in an auto parts store back in the 70s...we had a 3rd option back then which was straight SAE 30.....some vehicles used it but oils got better over the yrs thus protecting more at the lower/start up temps AND the tighter tolerances that occurred as the engines got higher revving and more fuel efficient

[@natosuperman1]

Im pretty sure a 428 or 351 could run on 60w as there was so much bearing clearence in them

[@glennjames7107]

I've always ran Castrol 20w50, or Valvoline racing straight w50, in any of my V8s after they've gotten some miles on them. Never had a problem. And the few that I opened up and looked at after many hard miles, looked as good as they did when I assembled them.

[@richardpchaseii5084]

When I was kid--back in the Stone Age--you only used straight 30W(non-detergent) oil, for about 800 miles after you re-built a diesel or gas engine, and then, once it was "broken in", you went back to the recommended SAE ratings.

[@Uncle-Duncan-Shack]

So, it's recommended that I use a Chevy C8 with my oil, well that computes quite nicely.

[@pappaslivery]

I had a 2018 Volvo S90 t5. Originally they wanted 5W-30 in it. Then they mailed me some stickers to change the owner's manual and the decal under the hood to 0W20. I never put the stickers on, but I did switch to the 0W20. My brother still driving the car with over 340,000 mi on it

[@alexphotoslc]

Cool video ! Had an Audi Q5 3.2 v6 gas, took 0w-40, above average mpg for that much v6, ~ 23-24mpg. Now got '19 VW Tiguan AWD, takes 0W-20 and again I average way more than the stated mpg, 30+mpg. Awesome, I'll take it :D

[@MNuggat]

4 cylinders are boring.

[@paulmoor595]

BMW recommended 5W 20 in my engine....but they also recommend long service intervals. The reason they do this is both emmissions and costs of serving during the first 3 years...so they can say its cheap for fleets to run.... I serviced it every 9000 miles and at 80k put 5W 30 in it...its now at 245,000 miles...I guarantee it wouldn't be had I used the oil BMW stated and changed it at it's service intervals.

[@Me-zo8yc]

Agreed

[@MrDLRu]

540ratblog

[@tedosmundson5620]

I have run 15-50 Mobil much of the time in a motor prescribed with 10 w 30. At a 185,000 miles it compression checked very good and still wasn't making any sounds that would indicate worn out parts. I like my high temp viscosity because it makes parts run quieter overall even though I am giving up a little power.

[@paulf1071]

What would you say to changing the viscosity in an engine with 100,000 miles on it? I think my last service/tune-up receipt listed 15W-40 put in a motor prescribed 5W-30 (@ ACEA A5). I was told continuing to use the manufacturer-recommended oil in this 12 year-old engine would cause the oil to burn off before the next scheduled change. I can see the logic (engine with low oil is bad, plus that burnt oil may damage O2 sensors??), but does 15W-40 seem a bit extreme, especially since EngineeringExplained warned never to increase the first W number rating?

[@lonniebeal6032]

@@paulf1071 Look at your owners manual, not the oil cap. Up to 2017 at least I could use many different viscosities of oil per a given temp.

[@scottp6761]

You probably aren't giving up much power at all. But small amount of gas mileage. Screw it your engine will last forever

[@zone47]

Very interesting! I better be careful with using modern oils in some of my older vehicles, although as stated a slightly lower winter or higher summer number isn't as bad as going the opposite way. Thanks for the info.

[@awaisiqbal8934]

One grade up or down doesn't hurt engine in long run depending upon ambient temperature

[@MrROTD]

This is why I like my engine, the manufacturer specifies thicker oil for extremely hot climates, thinner oil for very cold, and one in the middle for moderate climates which is most places on the planet.

[@wolfeadventures]

Same exact engines spec different weight oil depending on country. CAFE is reason for 0W oils in US.

[@RealMrNails]

As any land Rover discovery 2 owner knows, you MUST ignore the factory recommended oil and switch to Rotella 15w-40, as that engine almost requires it. You might say "oh, the factory knows best." But, Land Rover...

[@AlainCarAudioManiac]

Blew two engines, worst of the worst

[@anthonycoffey816]

My buddy had a Landrover Freelander... never seen a vehicle be so well maintained & still need so much work! 😵

[@jackburton9882]

Yep been there 🤬🤬

[@GH-oi2jf]

MrNails - “Rotella,” not to be confused with “Nutella.”

[@RealMrNails]

@@GH-oi2jf but close!

[@jeeannchew1741]

Not to forget that engine oil has potential to mix with the gasoline, and this will decrease the lubricant efficiency of the engine oil. It will be more significant if it is a multiple throttle or turbo car. Advice is change your oil on time, and change it earlier would be definitely better!

[@tatianatayts3051]

Do you think 5 AM is early enough?

[@sigmamale4147]

@@tatianatayts3051 i recommend 1 am for the best oilabolic window

[@kemangraya2382]

Too early is a waste of money. 5000 is the sweet spot

[@lexus_offroad_adventures]

It’s amazing how these manufacturers are able to protect engines with such low-viscosity oil.

[@imacarguy4544]

nice supra :p

[@johngoe420]

And worrisome... Good old thick oil in cast iron blocks will outlast any modern mini rattler

[@meterdoogles]

@@johngoe420 That’s just not true...

[@flyfaen1]

Maybe, just maybe... An oils viscosity is not the only factor that determins how good of a lubricant it is? Perhaps a modern 0W40 is much better at taking pressure without breaking the film, than an old mineral based SAE 80 oil... It's almost like there has been, and is continous development of lubricating oils...

[@NathanaelNaused]

@@johngoe420 Lol nah

[@f22cap2s2k]

Wife's 2016 Odyssey calls for a 0w-20 oil and was consuming a good bit after 120k miles. I swapped to 5w-30 and it runs much better and didn't notice any decrease in MPG.

[@arthursmith643]

Take a look at 10/40 Liquid moly motor oil. You can KZbin Mercedesource Kent says its great oil for high mileage engines and thats what he prefers in high mileage Mercedes. Type in Kent Bergsma and Liquid Moly oil.

[@cjjohnson3636]

Cuz of the wear n tear from miles ova time, good job

[@brolysadvocate]

EE: "I understand that fuel efficiency isn't everyone's favorite subject..." 2022: "Hold my beer..."

[@steveauston6020]

My vehicle is older and has a few miles. Switched to a thicker oil for the summer. Runs smoother!

[@4G12]

Long story short: as long as the oil is thick enough to provide oil pressure that's high enough to make sure there's no metal to metal contact, it's thick enough. Any thicker is wasted energy at best and accelerated wear at worse since the excessively thick oil can't flow well enough.

[@bryanjaime1599]

I ruined my Passat engine by adding in some 15w-50 the oil couldn't flow through the VTech valve and caused my cam shaft to seize ... I don't think I have to explain what happened next original oil called for 5w-40

[@jamescaley9942]

Goldilocks oil.

[@diavalus]

Bryan Jaime at least you’re open about your mistake and you’re not afraid to speak about it. Others are still repeating the same mistake over and over again.

[@wingracer1614]

That's basically true for rod and crank bearings but oil does a LOT more than that these days (and even in the past). I suspect a Chrysler Hemi could hold pressure just fine on 0w-16 but I bet the roller lifters would be junk in no time flat.

[@Odysseuss.]

But if it's too thick to flow nominally it won't cool properly. Which is the other important thing..

[@FuncleChuck]

(Oil Guy forums implode) What was that noise?!? Oh, someone said “Viscosity” on the Internet.

[@catsspat]

Bob, is that you?

[@Galm276]

catsspat Molakule has awoken from his sleep with this video lol

[@Formulabruce]

Too funny!

[@steamsoldier]

lol im on bitog right now

[@eclipsegst9419]

lol that place is so full of shills. the uoas are mostly legit though so its not without its uses

[@Sjackson2369]

Personally, I switch between 5W20 in the summer and 0W20 in the winter. It seems ridiculous to split hairs between a cold 5 and a cold 0, but when it’s -30 and the block heater and oil pan heater didn’t get plugged in the night before, it helps on those mornings.

[@user-tb7rn1il3q]

I’d use 0W20 year round

[@joeblowe7545]

It's actually only about a 1 to 2 degrees difference. At an extreme, perhaps 5 degrees. It really doesn't matter.

[@WayneHarropson]

My one morning in 10 degree weather my '83 Supra's belt tensioner failed on startup causing the belt to slip. Had to be trailered to the dealership. I'm sure I was using recommended10-30. Wished it had 0-30. Temperature matters.

[@joeblowe7545]

@@WayneHarropson I wouldn't blame the oil. You have a very old car, probably a lot of miles.Engine internals had likely worn out.

[@WayneHarropson]

@@joeblowe7545 This happened in 1986

[@pappaslivery]

My 2018 Volvo came with a manual recommendation of 5w-30. They actually sent me a letter with a sticker to put in my manual to change to 0w-20. I'm at 277k miles and still running strong after switching about halfway through

[@danielposavec7215]

That's insane and hilarious at the same time 😂

[@notkrapmusic]

Was probably regulatory to send the sticker to meet CAFE standards and keep the MPG a tiny-tad higher so they wouldn't get fined

[@andymike6575]

I would have wrote back telling them to pound sand. F*ck their CAFE penalties

[@jamespmcguire4355]

As a mechanical engineer, this is very informative tutorial.

[@timsmothers8740]

Go to Gale Banks KZbin channel and watch the series that he did while visiting The Amsoil manufacturing and testing Labs, if you enjoyed this then then Gales series with The Amsoil people/ Engineers, and the Torture testing an Engine on a dyno and at WOT For hours on end should very enjoyable for you also.

[@Achiyugo]

"You should always, always, always" Me: Haha. Lucas oil treatment goes glug.

[@bcubed72]

Well, Ford called for 10w40 when it designed the engine in my truck, revised it to 10w-30 when my truck was built, and reverted to specing 0w-20(!) for CAFE credits in the aughts. What oil am I "supposed" to use? (FWIW, I run Rotella 10w30, with an extra splash of ZDDP in my 300" inline 6.)

[@Michael_Lorenson]

@@bcubed72 Use the grade Ford recommends for the specific year. It's likely their manufacturing tolerances improved over time, so internal engine tolerances got tighter. Longevity is maintained, while efficiency is improved. It's one of the 'lengths manufacturers go to' discussed in the video. I guess ZDDP is some kind of 'oil improver'. That type of product is a waste of money, IMO. Some people will freak out and vehemently disagree, but I stand by that statement. Serious oil makers (i.e Mobil One), like engine makers, are not leaving anything on the table. If there is real benefit to be gained from an additive, it's in there.

[@rars0n]

@@bcubed72 That's a trick question. It's a 300 straight six, you can put any oil whatsoever into it and it will never die.

[@zachary3777]

@@Michael_Lorenson shows how much you know. They were putting it in there until the epa told them not to.

[@mini1293blue]

If you have a classic vehicle, you may want to change the oil spec since technology has moved on so much but it has to be done carefully.

[@creylacoste4981]

No one: Engineering Explained: makes a video just so he can write off his organic honey on his taxes

[@slonkijippie]

useless no one

[@RealCoolGuy]

Isn't all honey organic? What can make honey inorganic..?

[@donw758]

Like maple syrup, some honey is just corn syrup flavored like honey.

[@RealCoolGuy]

@@aussie2uGA yeah, but it gets dark. I always throw it out once it gets discoloured...

[@suiton20]

Don W that’s imitation honey then. I rarely see fake honey sold in stores. The only place I see it regularly is Popeyes, kfc or churches.

[@akshaygaikwad7484]

Excellent video, this what I was looking for, no one really unstood the details and explained it the way it is explained in this video