EP14 The Thermodynamics of Microsoldering | What do I set my Hot Air station to?

[@kristabond8591]

I’m a teacher, and your explantations are so wonderful!

[@TheArtofRepair]

Oh lord a throwback down memory lane. So much detail 😂 so young, I had no idea of the journey this channel would send me sound in my own teaching pathway. Thank you for the kind comment. 🎉

[@Sim3k86]

I just discovered your channel yesterday, watched like 5-6 videos and I can only let out one loud WOW. I have no words for the amount of knowledge that you pass on your viewers. I'm working 2 years already as a laptop serviceman and I thought I know at least "something" about soldering. Now I'm embarrassed, because it came to me, that I know *very* little about hot air rework.. Thank you, that you've gone to the trouble of making those training videos. Keep them coming :)

[@jondoe9581]

I hope to see more videos, your explanations are clear and precise as well as easy to understand. This information is hard to obtain without an electrical engineering degree of some kind. Thank you much appreciation!

[@TheArtofRepair]

No worries brother, def going to keep making videos for everyone =D Glad that they were able to help you in some way =)

[@avmech00]

This is a very valuable video and thanks for making it! By far the most asked questions of youtube micro solderers like Jessa, Louis, Jason, Larry and Chris Long is "Hey bro what do you set you hot air station to?" I wondered when I first started why they did not answer this question but after some experience I quickly understood. I started with a $60 SMD 858 station, not a bad station but not a Quick, JBC or Hakko by any means so as I experimented I learned very quickly my temps varied widely from some other you tubers that gave their temps. I am going to start linking this video in the micro soldering groups I belong to as I think it will definitely help those just starting out. Thanks again your videos bring balance between education and practical application.

[@Stephen-cm3fs]

Good video. There's too many out there that want the immediate answer without understanding how it all works and why there's a problem there in the first place. Very guilty of this myself starting and from time to time still. Good to see content that teaches you how to think over here's a solution that may or may not work here and prob won't solve your problem in the future because you still have no clue what's going on.

[@coreysinz9139]

This is why I watch this channel

[@MrVanja78]

Great video THANKS

[@SimonKotowiczUK]

Top video! Thank you.

[@benwrong6855]

Excellent!

[@Heathmcdonald]

Thank God you explain the "why" nobody else on the internet goes to the trouble of explaining it. I think it's because they don't really know themselves

[@Zemine77]

Hello, Justine love your videos, thank you for make such a good tutorials, what do you think about oschiloscope do you have used one in board repairs? Do you think is it any handy to have one?

[@TheArtofRepair]

I mean, it can be handy in 1 out of 1000 repairs, I hardly use mine. It just depends on how deep you're trying to take things. If you realllly need to view data lines or something. But in the day to day board repair, I don't use one that often. Mostly a nice thing to have sitting on the desk XD

[@user-cy9cw3xf4n]

A practical chem 2 review. Nice!

[@el1367]

What happened to episode 13?

[@kamj9614]

Right

[@Alistair12367]

Justin, great video as usual. One question. Im interested on your take on preheating boards and how preheating comes into play regarding this video and the thermal dynamics

[@TheArtofRepair]

I think this one deserves a video. But long story short, I think they are a crutch for the most part, never really needed one myself, but I do know people that swear by them. =)

[@springer-qb4dv]

It seems nearly impossible to desolder bga chip glued down with epoxy underfill without damaging it due to prolonged exposure to high heat. I was wondering why it's not possible to avoid hot air gun and instead use hot thin blade to physically melt and cut bga chip free? Then heat will be only focused where it needs to be which is solder balls and epoxy filler layer.

[@TheArtofRepair]

springer 11724 Well I think this is an interesting idea, and I’ll probably play with the idea at some point in the future because it is a really cool idea. My first initial problem thought here is that somebody will rip vias and pads off the board because they don’t know what they’re doing and then the device is destroyed Now you could say the same thing about Hot air but I would argue that Hot air is probably 100 times less likely to do that if you’re doing it properly So since we don’t know about your idea like I said I’ll keep it on the radar and I’ll look into it but I do have concerns about the thought process

[@TheArtofRepair]

springer 11724 actually I’m sitting here thinking about it right now, I just don’t think there’s going to be enough thermal capacity to transfer from something so small and overcome the thermal mass of the board

[@technolucas3720]

..so I think i can use 250 safely but is that practical? What temp do you find yourself at when you are trying to not kill something irreplaceable? (like nand) I don't mind taking longer if it means less risk.

[@TheArtofRepair]

If you heat something to slowly it will give the rest of the board a chance to reach the same temp. Which could damage or short nearby components from the solder getting to wetting temp. Hitting it a bit higher to overcome the thermal conductivity of the board will allow you to release the component at the epicenter of the heat before it proliferates out further.

[@Alistair12367]

Yes, you are actually better to use a higher heat for less time as the surrounding components will be of a lower heat by time component comes off. In other words, better to get in/out quickly and toast the target component, than slowly bake the board and surrounding components.

[@rocko553]

Hi Justin, i'm looking to start your online class but its not letting me sign in can u please help me with this , thank u, no waiting soon please

[@TheArtofRepair]

Hey there! just getting back into youtube right now. I would say that my online classes have not officialy been launched. If you want to talk about doing online or in person training please contact me via email [e-mail] and i would be happy to help;

[@markphilpot4981]

Got a question Justin. Most of the work I have done is thru hole and with discrete components. Very little time did I get near SMDs. The solder used was an RMA Sn63 or an Sn62. Both are pure eutectic solders and both are leaded. I’ve never used lead free solder on any board. Finding a lead free solder as good as those leaded RMAs has not proven successful for me. I pride myself on the quality of my solder work. Finding the right lead free formulation that gives me those results I am used to with that RMA leaded solder is of paramount importance. Mixing these is no good. I need to find a lead free solder that works like it’s RMA leaded relative! You got a recommendation, I am listening!😲🤐

[@TheArtofRepair]

Mark Philpot first question is what’s your specific application where lead free is essential. I don’t use lead free myself but maybe with some more information i can look into it when I get some free time :)

[@markphilpot4981]

It’s not that I need any lead free solder. I am just researching for the future. I know that you cannot mix these solders as they are not compatible. When you use leaded solder on either an iron or a desoldering pencil or gun, it is not a good idea to use lead free solder using the same equipment. It contaminates that’s equipment and renders it unusable. As long as I can use Kester 282 RMA Sn62 or Sn63 leaded solder, I will use it. My reason is clear, high quality and high reliability. I am a proponent of DOD STD 2000-1. Any other standard is just bs. It has served me these many years. So as long as I can, I will use it. Lead free has a long way to go. They, the solder manufacturers, haven’t come up with a formulation which meets the same one as the 282 or it’s equivalent by other makers. As far as I’m concerned, I’ll give up my solder when hell freezes!😠

[@giovannifasoli89]

Please translate The subtitles in italian!

[@paulzaim7900]

Learn English, nobody will treat you line a special snowflake...

[@franciscorbin2036]

love your videos. I find that I learn something new everyday. I have a question. I could not find your website and thought I would privately message you but This video is related to my question. Check this out. I have a POS Gaoyue 850+ as my hot air station. I have a hakko fm-202 and fm-951. Have the necessary tips. I need a new hot air station. I will take your advice and go with prime distributing rework. I can afford either the quick 957DW or the 861DW (your preference). Hakko or JBC is not in my price range. Here is the thing. I'm older in my 40s. So I like knobs to turn. I like the 957dw based on the specs. The 861dw is great but i don't really care for having to press buttons. So the real issue comes down to watts, the 951 is only 580 and the 861 is 1000. (compared to piece of shit gaoyue 850+ 280 watts) So is the difference in watts worth the extra 200 i pay for the 861dw? I guess what I am saying is i want the 951dw. But I hope you can help me decide. I only been doing this for about a year. cellular repair for about 2 years. Let me know which you think i will be happy with long term.if the wattage is worth dealing with buttons i will. I just don't have enuf experience with rework to say one way or the other. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Keep up the good work. Your Fan, Francis

[@TheArtofRepair]

build quality and overall performance are much better on the 861 over the 957. I wouldn't worry as much about the wattage difference for mobile rework.

[@franciscorbin2036]

alright, i shall take your advice. thanks again oh yeah great vid on lying to customers. i just watched it...... definitely food for thought.