Training For Climbing - Campus Boarding

[@bryanwilliams4065]

I really appreciate how well edited this is. The model demonstrating the movement while still being described by the narrator is such a great way to have a lot of content in little time. Great work.

[@derekxiaoEvanescentBliss]

He also has a great book that I highly recommend called training for climbing

[@OnlyInBoston]

For those saying "What if I can't do this?", I think the best thing for you to train is to just climb. Don't worry about anything except for sending. Start with the lowest grade you can send and keep slowly ranking up until you can consistently send 5.11+. If you can't do that, do not do campus training, You will get just as much training giving your all on a route you can't do 5.11- without injuring yourself. Campusing is NOT a beginning strategy.

[@TheBlackFriesian]

I'm 18 and I've been climbing for about a year and a half and I would say I'm around the V9-10ish area. I started using the campus board early into my first year along with hangboard exercises and I feel as strong as ever with zero injuries to my tendons.

[@bizmonkey007]

You’re (at least you were) 18. Your body’s at its most resilient and adaptive.

[@Шедуле]

@@bizmonkey007 Im 42 yo 5 months in climbing. Already sand some V7. Campus is not really hard with footholds. I use first 4 steps up and down as much as I can. It is really help to gain strength and power.

[@riedstep]

How many years of climbing do I need to do to watch this video:p

[@lacsergent24]

you don't have enough

[@baclimbing6427]

Cool, this will help me out for more routes on my channel if I get my strength better

[@jneumonik]

That's a beautiful home campus board, would you happen to have the design for it? I want to build a campus board one day in my garage.

[@gigglysamentz2021]

0:39 Quasi-what? Piometric? I know quasi-isometric but I don't know this...

[@wolfemooney7188]

GiggitySam Entz Plyometric. It’s an exercise that uses maximum amount of force in a short period of time. Think of box or scissor jumps, but instead for your fingers

[@TraintoSummit]

This would have great transfer to actual climbing. Great video.

[@TuNeXiZz]

For me it's always hard to maintain an open hand grip while resting my pinkie on the most rungs. Is there a trick on how to get it on or should I just leave it hang?

[@nicholaspullem4246]

let hang

[@sarahpreston4558]

Place your pinky first, and turn your hand so you can fit all of the other fingers on with minimal bend in your pointer and middle fingers. Middle finger will be a little bent, but that's OK if you're careful.

[@friederwittmann7104]

For some people, those with short pinkies, open hand simply means using three fingers only.

[@LeaderOfTehBox]

If you’re over crimping and can’t do it with open crimp then continue to campus but don’t overdo it and add in open crimp hangboarding at the end of each session, in a few weeks you’ll be able to campus open grip

[@assaado]

I have been doing calithenics for two years now, so im decently strong in upper and lower body. I started climbing 45 days ago, im advancing very fast that im now able to crimp/pinch perfectly. I also tried the campus board 7 times and felt just okay. Is it okay to continue training on campus board for 2 dats a week?

[@danielfry8097]

The textbook answer is; It takes much longer for tendons to strengthen (years) than it does for muscles to adapt to new training (weeks/months). While you may already have the upper body strength to do these exercises, you almost certainly do not have strong enough tendons to handle the stress of this type of training, and as such will inevitably get injured. Tendon injuries can occur with little to no warning, and can put you out of action for a long time. Also. This type of training is near useless to a new climber who has not yet begun to master the many elements of technique required to climb efficiently, and will likely lead a new climber to favor campus moves/power moves over technical moves, which will eventually bottle-neck progression. If you have been climbing for 45 days then just keep climbing. Keep doing calisthenics, sure. But know that climbing is much much more than just power or strength and as such the act of climing itself will often be your best path to improving. For the first 2 years at least.

[@Source212]

I do the same like you. I have been doing calisthenic for three years and started three months ago also to train climbing. But slowly because of my tendons afrer training are really tired i fill that, i can train climbing one time per week only. I need much time for regeneration of my tendons. But calisthenic helps me a lot in climbing and hope not to be injured someday.

[@MarkusSojakka]

I have done calisthenics for about 1 year before I started bouldering. Now I have climbed for 8 months and I have climbed like 100 7A and up boulders my hardest is currently 7C. And I just started using campus board because I got my foot injured. Seems like it is fine.

[@jacccs]

From 5:03 to 5:18, did they actually use a fucking text-to-voice application? I actually don't know what to say right now. Ok.

[@colehiggins8533]

What if I've been climbing for months but I already had prior arm strength will I be ok to do the canvas board

[@avigetsbored]

if you can climb v5-v6

[@UnitedFakes]

what if you've been climbing on and off for 2 years?

[@avigetsbored]

if you can climb v5-v6 then you are fine

[@TheRedBeard216]

Not climbing campus for 2 years? Highly disagree with that comment. It depends on the individual and what they have done through out their life. I've been a carpenter and a laborer for many years I have always worked with my hands. I find campus perfectly fine and I've only been climbing for a few months. I am 33 years old and have had no problem having the "strength" to use the campus board

[@InsaneDynamics]

This is good, but I would say that it depends on how much you're climbing before you start using a campus board. Once you start doing V5's you can probably start with campusing. Your bmi also matters. If it's in a healthy state you should be able to do some reps of campusing with minimal risk.

[@InsaneDynamics]

Age also matters.

[@EGL24Xx]

InsaneDynamics you lost all credibility when you said bmi

[@avaran6883]

Well If you are lightweight or just a kid then you can start doing campus boards after a few months

[@friederwittmann7104]

Kids may be able to campus but it is extremely dangerous, especially in the growth spurt phases. Look up 'growth plate injuries'. It's unfortunately very common in young climbers these days. "Epiphyseal stress fractures to the middle phalanx, also known as growth plate injuries, are almost exclusive to adolescent climbers, and the most common climbing injury in adolescent competitors." Provance et al 2019, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6446347/

[@Rycamcam]

I’ve heard pros say that this type of training isn’t recommended for kids because their bones are still developing, and it may be detrimental to their bones

[@jekjekpalarin5317]

San kaya may ganyan sa pinas huhuhu

[@liviathan95]

We have a number of climbing gyms: rox in bgc, ccm in mandaluyong, sentro in qc i think, etc, look it up lang online

[@migoiegdul6532]

I want to buy a campus board but I dont have the place to make it overhanging does it need to be overhanging?

[@Goofygreyhoundgoober]

Love Climbing From what i can figure, the overhang is only so that you can move your elbows and body properly without slamming into the wall as you would if there was no overhang. hope that makes sense

[@omgwateverlol]

by intermediate do you mean a v7 climber?

[@bizmonkey007]

I would say V5 and up, but also factor in how long you’ve been climbing like he said due to the time it takes tendons to adapt.

[@grahamwallace1196]

Two years!?! I started campus training as soon as i started climbing. Is this a bad thing?

[@Bourk-a1i]

You can break ligaments and tendons.

[@MFphreak]

There is literally no point in campus board training if you have been climbing less than 2+ years. You can improve just as fast in a safe environment by just climbing. You are so new no point in campusing on small rungs at that point.

[@riedstep]

MFphreak do you walk around with your nose in their air all the time?

[@casperwecksten1024]

finland 5th yaayyy like if you are finnish

[@edvinjansson487]

"If you have been climbing for less then 2 years your not ready for the campusboard" bullshit

[@raulsuarez5421]

yeah, right? keep it for your self, "cause that's not a real fact. I mean, if you wanna get injured fast, just do it...but do not tell the people to do the same. Obviously you don't have any education on sports medicine, so you should just learn from professionals. I broke a pectoralis tendon just for going from 5+ to 7a in less than 8 month. It coasted me 7000 euros and a year of recovery. And now you tell the people to get injured on porpoise. Bravo.

[@michaelwalker8100]

Raul Suarez I'll make sure I don't get injured on a dolphin

[@Diazlsx07]

Really? Cause I've been climbing for 8 months and I'm already doing 1, 5 ,9s

[@AshKetchumX2]

In case you're serious; he doesn't mean you're not ABLE to do it, the problem is as a novice climber your muscles grow in strength much faster than your tendons so you become strong enough to injure your tendons by pulling harder than your tendons can endure. This can result in a pulley injury, which is not fun.

[@ggidd4322]

Pft. I started campussing after climbing for a few months. This is bs

[@teste3724]

Muscles get stronger about 3 times faster than ligaments and tendons. It's very easy to injure yourself on a campus board, just because you haven't, doesn't mean it's a good idea.

[@zan831]

The dude was just trying to give safe advice to newbies. An average person might be able to lift 10kg on the tips of their fingers - recruiting only the flexor digitorum profundus muscle (which is a very tiny muscle that makes your distal finger joint bend). Now if you're a fit person, and you do lots of pullups thinking you're really strong - but most of these pullups you're doing them on "jug" like holds. These holds are much easier because they allow you to recruit more muscle groups in the forearm, including flexor digitorum superficialis, flexor indicis, and more. This means you are distributing 50-90kg of body weight over many tendons, and there is significantly less strain. However, when you do campus training, you put 50-90kg of body weight distributed on - thats right - ONLY 1 MUSCLE GROUP the FDP and its associated tendon. Their muscles tell them they can lift 90kg easily. But tendons take 6-12 months and more of continuous gradual conditioning to be able to withstand that weight. From 10kg-90kg is a HUGE increase in stress for your tendons (depending on how much you weigh), which is why alot of people overestimate and over train - injuring themselves before they even realize it (because you dont feel the strain until its too late).

[@florentbalsez5765]

And you're probably a mediocre climber.

[@dweeder1453]

You get injured only when you overdo it or not realize your limit. It is completely fine to start training campus board even if you do not climb. There are multiple factors involved. Talk to your physiotherapist

[@jontweedlie6394]

good luck with the rehab

[@joelsukkau7470]

lol wut ? two years .. ya I don't think so ... comments like that make me question everything else in this video 😂

[@loganzimmerman541]

Yeah buy you are probably like 15 and weigh 80 pounds.

[@joelsukkau7470]

Bigol Dickus 18 and 170.... lol my friend is 200 and 6 foot 3

[@joelsukkau7470]

if your in decent shape and willing to push yourslef and progress at a substantial rate you usually gotta go beyond these types of videos they are way to carful

[@climbscience4813]

LOL. If you're climbing less than 2 years it is very, very likely that you can benefit more from just climbing more, even if you're pushing yourself. The first step beyond that is fingerboarding, but most people start with that too early too. If you can't progress by fingerboard training and climbing after two years of training your training program is bad.

[@Messiahs]

If you are only 18 I want to know what is your background to make such claims?

[@grantedens9793]

I am 14, have been climbing for six months and can do laddering. They should have made the video more scientific.

[@jontweedlie6394]

You obviously don’t know who this guy is then.

[@bizmonkey007]

You’re also 14. Your body’s young and can adapt very quickly. What may be okay for you may not be typical.