EPISODE 102 Diagnosing engine, checking Alternator & Regulator function Autorestomod

[@AutoRestoMod]

Glad you like them Fluffy! As we stated it won't work but we show another method in the second installment airing 2.14.13.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Good point Bill. There are a lot of things that can cause problems. We'll hit a couple more in the next episode.

[@raaah]

Real good episode a lot of great information keep up the good work guys

[@bingnowtv]

Great Video, lots of good info & tips here. Thanks guys. Looks like I have some work to do :) I am inspired...

[@AutoRestoMod]

Coming up next week!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Omar, it sounds like you have a battery or voltage problem. Do the voltage check we did with the engine running, you should be getting 14 volts with the meter attached to the negative and positive leads. The Impala throttle linkage probably needs to be hit with some oil like 3 in 1 or lithium grease. WD 40 is not going to hold up for very long if you use it.

[@AutoRestoMod]

First check your voltage on the battery, low voltage can cause a starting problem. Next check your idle mixture screws (on a Holley theya re on the sides if the carburetor, on an Autolite and Edelbrock they are under the front of the carb. Typical is 1 1/2 turns for these. Adjust from there. Also check for vacuum leaks.

[@PHCBILL]

A vacuum leak can be a "bad dog", chased a dead skip on #7 cyl on a 289 that had been in storage for several years, after much head scratching, remembered I had removed the vacuum modulator hose off of the trans. That was the cause. Spraying starting fluid around the intake will sometimes help locate a leak...YFB

[@comsol4]

Can you guys show us what the "Exhaust Pipe Paper Test" looks like now that the 289 is running better and without a miss? Thanks!

[@fluffykittynoodles]

Question, fellas. What does the "paper test" look like if you have dual exhaust but you have a crossover pipe? Thanks for the videos!

[@jevchance]

Actually demonstrating "Shade Tree Mechanic"! Nightmist Blue, my favorite color :)

[@ceajaeyoung6079]

at 8:06... you might want to put the number one plug wire back on the plug.

[@AutoRestoMod]

HAHAHAHA never even noticed that! Too funny.

[@MacabreMosaic]

I want to know why the vacuum advance was not hooked up

[@AutoRestoMod]

In order to get baseline alternator function you unplug the distributor and plug the vacuum port.

[@SixtyFiveDropTop]

Reality KZbin. Let the info flow. Thanks.

[@mka001mc]

Hi guys, I have a problem with my car, it's a 1967 Mustang with a 351w. The engine will start but it will turn off if I didn't push the gas pedal. I tried everything and still with no solutions??

[@comsol4]

Groovy...thanks!

[@senniekerby]

Multi meter is only showing between 11.5 - 12.5 at idle but then it hiccups and drops down to 7.5 and stalls out. I then jump start it(starts easier than my 2014 Jeep). I jumped the A/F posts and the alternator is pushing as high as 17 volts when rev'd. So I replaced my regulator(I think it was original). Still no change. OK, what to do when the no voltage at the I terminal isn't caused by a loose connection on the fire wall? I have .2 volts to my green/red stripe wire at the regulator. My Ford wiring diagram shows the green/red stripe wire being a resistance wire from the ignition switch to the fire wall on the inside of the car, then regular wire to the regulator. There isn't a green/red stripe wire anywhere in the harness near the ignition switch.

[@AutoRestoMod]

The wire is a red with green stripe, that comes right off the ignition switch. I'd want to take the battery and charge it on a good charger. See if it pulls 12V. It may have a bad cell or two. Also, have the alternator tested at a rebuild shop, you may have a diode or diodes that are failing with heat load. Even so, your alternator is not charging. should be putting out 12.8 to charge.

[@bonnyhigley8783]

I notiice on your video you where talk about Alternator & regulator an the engine on 65 Mustang. Which I have a question I have on my 65 Ford Mustang Stock...#1. I had to replace my fuel tank which I did which was Stain Steel & sending unit's. My problem is this.Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator. Which I got some at "Auto Zone" (dual-life) When I put it in, it show ok, then later on it didn't. So I replace it again with a new on. I tested this on & bouce back & fourth from 3.2V. But the system I have needs 5.2V to work right. So I order 4 of Sold State one's & run a ground wire from the sending unit to a good ground. Which I had a bad ground problem. When I test those, It stay's right on 5.2V. Compair to the one I had before. Question I have is this, can I get one that bouce back & fourth from 5.2V every 2 seconds or should I just go ahead & use the one's I got now??? Can you show a video on this??? 65 Ford Mustang owner/stock 289 Auto. Conver..

[@AutoRestoMod]

LOt of folks swear by the solid state units. We'd recommend using the existing one that is showing the voltage. Keep an eye on the gas gauge for the first few drives. Fill it up and then ad gas. Depending on the tank (15 gal, 17, gal. etc) If you put gas in and the gauge is showing correct amount, you are good to go.

[@bonnyhigley8783]

So what you are saying is to go ahead & use the solid state one that show's 5.2V...The other type I been using keep shorted out or doesn't go back an fourth from 3.2V...

[@AutoRestoMod]

Well, my biggest concern is why the other units are shorting. I would look at your grounds, then maybe go back to the old style if it is working for you.

[@reijerlincoln]

"Oh look, 12 volts". Hehehe.

[@reijerlincoln]

"Oh look, 12 volts". Hehehe.