Episode 130 - Rear Drum Brake Rebuild 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline

[@SatishKumar-p4m7g]

should have shown more , releasing springs and and installing self adjuster are important to show

[@MazdaB3K]

As the way I remove springs is not correct, I didn't want to show it. I do explain to try and use the correct tools. If you can't or won't, screwdrivers and locking pliers are your friends.

[@zanejohnson9680]

Good shit dude you saved my brain from a headache🤣😁

[@MazdaB3K]

Glad I could help. Drum brakes are annoying but if you have some pictures and patience they aren't horrible.

[@gad5248]

Thank You Sooo much for uploading this video!!! You helped save me a butt load of money on labor and parts!! I'm subbing!!

[@MazdaB3K]

Comments like this are the reason why I keep the channel going. Thanks!

[@Ottonic6]

I like the step explanation. Although you didn't actually show removing and installing the parts which would have been helpful, I do know you were holding the camera with one hand which makes it hard to show since most require both hands to do. I noticed others said the same thing, but I want to let you know that I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the process which will make the job much easier, so thank you very much for the video.

[@MazdaB3K]

I appreciate the comment. I have been trying to get better about putting the camera in a tripod and then doing the shot, but depending on what is being filmed and where it can be tricky. I also am trying to strike a balance between having extremely long videos where I show everything, versus a shorter video where I present the key information but cut out some of the "busy" work.

[@Matt-vb2jo]

I'm doing mine on a 92 e150 starcraft and that brake bracket is a beast. Also that small flat support piece is a pain but anyone doing this in the future... be careful with that pin clip on the brake adjuster, it's made of softer metal. I almost bent mine up beyond use. Thanks for vid man🔥

[@MazdaB3K]

No worries, glad it's helping out. I just had to rebuild the rears... again. Turns out the shoes I put on had really rough contact pads that started digging into the contact pads on the backing plate. I had to grind smooth the backing plate, swap the shoes and then grind down the contact points on the replacement shoes as they also were too rough for my liking. Now they rear brakes are finally doing what they are supposed to, quietly with no squeal or groaning noises.

[@Matt-vb2jo]

@MazdaB3K Hey man there is a trq vid with a career mechanic lady and said to brush some kind of heat resistant silicon to those 6 contact points on the back of the shoe where they rub the backing plate. I know what you are talking about. I think that is my problem now. When I hit the brakes my back right wheel start making a racket and vibrating violently to where you can hear it in the van. It sounds like the dang wheel is about to come off. I know you are set now but I leave this in hopes others may see it. Keep the vids coming.

[@MazdaB3K]

@@Matt-vb2joWhat I did was to coat each of the six contact points with antisieze to prevent metal on metal rub, but that was after I used a small dremel like tool to grind down the grooving that had started in the contact pads on the backing plate. If you haven't done so, consider turning your drums. Over time they get a lip in them that can force the shoe at a weird angle in the drum causing the contact points to dig into the contact pads on the backing plate and start grooving them. I haven't personally seen it before but if springs are broken or worn out, brake shoes can wind up dragging on stuff as well.

[@surfbug1]

Jared! Big Al here w 1997 e150 conversion van ....just did FRONT brakes.....and i cant bleed the system, (proportion valve?) maybe 5his video has info on bleeding.... if not ya got another view!

[@MazdaB3K]

I don't have a video specific to bleeding brakes, but I do cover it somewhat in multiple brake related videos. As I said in my last reply, I would pull the soft line where it meets the hard line and see if it will drop fluid from the hard line. If it's not, you are going to have to start at the brake master cylinder and crack hard lines following what will drip until you find where it doesn't. First major thing after the brake master cylinder is the ABS pump. It's easy to identify due to all the brake lines going in and out of it. Its located below and in front of the brake master cylinder. Crack lines there and see if you have drips. If all that looks good, then go the the prop valve. It's located in the driver's frame rail up near the wheel. Crack the lines going in and coming out of the valve. If you have a flow going in but not going out, then the prop valve may be your issue.

[@mirwaismirwais8131]

Very helpful

[@MazdaB3K]

Glad it helped

[@VenaGT]

I'm pretty effin' fancy!

[@BroAllen]

Thanks!

[@MazdaB3K]

Wow! My first donation. Thanks!

[@jaygold4467]

"The thing, the thing".

[@MazdaB3K]

There's some....thing...something on the wing!

[@faithhawkins6944]

How did you go about getting the last spring on? The spring at the bottom above the adjuster wheel?

[@MazdaB3K]

I used locking pliers and much grunting. I didn't have the right tools for this job, just locking pliers, screwdrivers and grunting lol.

[@surfbug1]

and we meet again! i drove home with ny ebrake on for 5 miles.....grrrr when my ebrake is set....there ahould be a light on that says "brake" IN BIG RED LETTERS..... my light doesnt work. so, maybe thr light is out, or thr plunger ismt activated do you have any yiutube links or info onthis? when the ebrake is on, the "brake" light should come on thansk Jared! big al

[@MazdaB3K]

There is a sensor behind the parking brake arm that the contact will get dirty or eventually wear out. That's the part you need to service and/or replace. You'll also need to make sure the bulb on the instrument cluster is not burned out either. I've replaced this sensor in the van but I didn't film it. It a single 8mm bolt I think. You can pick up a replacement sensor pretty easily at your local part house or online from Amazon, eBay, rockauto, etc. Do also bear in mind that parking brake cables do stretch with time and use. Don't be surprised if you get your rear brakes adjusted right but your parking brake doesn't seem to bite until the very end of the travel.

[@surfbug1]

@@MazdaB3K ok cool thanks for the detail I will check this out!

[@tomsky]

Wondering if it’s absolutely necessary to replace drums or can I get away with only shoes replacement (no leak symptoms) just spongy pedal and squeaky sound from rear

[@MazdaB3K]

Spongy pedal generally indicates air in the system somewhere. Normally you get air from a leak somewhere in the system. As to reusing a drum, if the drum isn't terribly worn or ridged it can be re-used no issue. If it's ridged it need to be replaced or if the drum is still thick enough it can be turned. Most local auto part stores can turn a drum for you for a small fee.

[@tomsky]

@@MazdaB3K thank you 🙏 have not access yet the rear breaks to see what I need only purchased new shoes not familiar with the vocabulary of parts but maybe I’m confusing drums with cylinders

[@MazdaB3K]

@@tomsky Ok then, a short primer: Brake Drums: Big circular metal cover that goes over all the other brake stuff. The brake shoes press against this to stop your vehicle Brake Shoes: The part that does the stopping. Metal brackets with brake lining glued to them that are pushed outward by the piston arms of a wheel cylinder Wheel Cylinder: The hydraulic part of drum brakes. The small cylinder generally in the middle top of a drum brake setup with two piston arms that "push" the brake shoes outward so they press against the brake drum and create friction, slowing down your vehicle. When you press the brake pedal, brake fluid is pushed into the wheel cylinder via a brake line and then pushes the piston arms out to push on the brake shoes.

[@tomsky]

@@MazdaB3K thank you ! Yes now small correction to my question is it absolutely necessary to replace wheel hydraulic cylinder while changing shoes and how to tell if they need replacement 👏🙏

[@MazdaB3K]

@@tomsky Wheel cylinders will generally start to leak from their rubber seals when they fail. So if you see evidence of brake fluid inside of the drum, leaking out of the drum or puddling on your tire generally you have a bad wheel cylinder. That being said, they generally aren't that expensive so changing them with a known good can be cheap insurance. In general, if wheel cylinders have been sitting for a very long time they tend to fail as well.

[@jaygold4467]

Don't tell us what you're going to do. Do it! Why didn't you show it?

[@MazdaB3K]

What particular thing are you needing to see?

[@jaygold4467]

@@MazdaB3K The whole disassembly. You left it out. Terrible video.

[@MazdaB3K]

For this particular video it was mainly because I needed both hands in order to do the work and my tripod is currently broken. If I remember correctly I do point out the gotchas, build and teardown order, where stuff is located, fastener sizes, etc. If you fault my video because I didn't film unbolting something that's pretty mundane, you've got me. That being said I will work towards getting my tripod replaced which will improve the flexibility of my content.