I use sort of a bain marie kind of a water bath setup and I put smooth stones in the bottom of my Pyrex casserole dish so it isn't direct heat. My etching tank is one of those frozen dinner black plastic trays. I also have a test tube with plain water in it and a cooking thermometer inside to monitor the temperature. Although as soon as you see fumes you know you're hot enough. A cheap lighter plug in tire inflator is the best for aerating the bath. The pulse action they do is great.
@1pcfred12 жыл бұрын
I've etched a couple of boards with ferric chloride and find it works much better if the etchant is heated up and I use a bubbler. Rocking is for the birds. So far I have ruined two toner cartridges running that blue paper through printers too. So I think I am going to give photo-resist a shot. Photo-resist can handle a lot more detail than toner transfer can anyways.
@SignalDitch12 жыл бұрын
Nice! Thanks for the tip. Yeah, KZbin's link policy is a pain.
@SignalDitch12 жыл бұрын
Yeah, actually I've had a lot of luck with the laser cutting method whereby you spray the entire board in flat back spray paint and then use a laser to etch away everything but the mask. Then etch the copper with your etchant of choice. The point of this video wasn't to show the best way, but a good way for beginners to get their hands dirty. Thanks for the heads up about that paper, though I'm building a fume hood now so I can use hot etchants/plating/tinning solutions in my tiny apartment.
@1pcfred12 жыл бұрын
I'd feel pretty lucky too if I had a laser cutter. I made a board for a class A amp once using the nail polish method, although I used acrylic craft paint instead of nail polish. By hot I did mean bring the bath up to fuming, for fecl that is about 110F I'm going to try to sneak a link past KZbin(i) (imgur) (com) [29kxF] (jpg) so you can see how I heat my tank up. Replace with the appropriate dots and slashes for it to work. You already have the Pyrex dish. Get a 12V tire inflator to bubble.