Episode 31. KDP fix and use of a nice Cummins seal install tool.

I take care of the killer dowel pin on the Big Caddy D engine per the instructions. I also try out a Cummins front crank seal driver tool that was loaned to me.

[@frankiemadrid9030]

"That's enough, pork chop!" My go to phrase from now on for every situation!

[@garylewis327]

That removable white plastic ring that came on the seal makes it easier to get the seal back over the crankshaft after it's been installed in the cover. When you push the seal over the crank, that plastic ring pushes out the front so you can grab it and yank it out the rest of the way.

[@CrazyForCooCooPuffs]

That black installation tool is all you need, the other thing is a depth gauge for when you don't need have the cummins one

[@lancedosser75]

Hahaha that cat was trying to tell you hey mother f***** I need to piss let me outside. You ignored your cat so he said f*** you I just piss on your drill LOL

[@redsite001]

I put thread locker on all the other bolts inside the timing case as well. It seemed like they could come out eventually too. They weren't very tight at all.

[@FirstGendodgegarage]

Unnecessary

[@jimbo8972]

great vid with closeups... thanks... any idea why dowel pin cant be just removed ?

[@traviswillis8308]

The cat was wanting some kibble lol

[@MegaJfuentes]

The cat part was funny lol

[@ubaldo24v81]

Is it the same for the 24v ?

[@stevehuston9831]

That tool does have its own depth gauge.

[@chilidog73]

Question. I see your CCV setup. Is this a 2001? I see alot of people rerouting a collection bottle, but it looks like you set it up to keep the oil in the engine and just release the vapor? Is that right?

[@LowQualityFilms-in1og]

Childog, This is a 1992 12 valve cummins from a Dodge W250. This is a non waste gate turbo engine. There is no vent system like on the 2nd gen Dodge Cummins.

[@johnq2551]

Today's episode features a special guest appearance from Pork chop.

[@electricamir248]

Seems smarter to just check those other bolts for torque instead of removing. What is the dowel pin holding?

[@LowQualityFilms-in1og]

The point of removing the bolt is to put lock tight on the threads. If you decided not to do this then yes you could just check for tightness. It was recommended in the instructions so that's what I did.

[@josephlbrociousjr3951]

awesome tips. How did you get the motor back to top dead center or in my case just back ware it was I marked the cam gear and the injection pump gear , so I know ware to go back to however, did you just reverse the ratchet and turn the motor back or did you just rotate it all the way around, twice? I remember someone told me long ago to never turn the motor backwards, your input would be most appreciated . lesson of the day , don't make porkchop mad. lol and they say cats and dogs don't understand you.

[@LowQualityFilms-in1og]

Joseph. I'm glad you found the video helpful. I did not turn the motor back to top dead center even though I said I would. I had the motor at TDC for a previous video when I was doing the valve adjustment. What I made sure of was that I had the markings on the gears lined up when I took off the injection pump on the video after this one. I hope this answered your question. I posted this video awhile back so I had to watch it again myself lol

[@joecostu1571]

Where is part 2

[@gillsmotorworks]

Doing the same thing right now

[@jonnysrods]

That was 18 ft lbs the first time it clicked. Then more and more foot pounds each click after. lol Set tool. Run up on torque slowly. One click. Done. Try using another torque wrench and set it the same and see how close they are. There you go.

[@apolinarponce4506]

I tried finding the cover gasket but the Cummins dealer said just to use silicone no more gasket

[@LowQualityFilms-in1og]

The gasket is still available from cummins. look up genos garage if you dont want to use just silicone. The gasket is expensive.

[@cumminsadicts3340]

You do relize that metal ring was to drive that in same with the plastic looking drive too

[@apolinarponce4506]

If they make you take them out wouldnt new bolts be better to use ?

[@LowQualityFilms-in1og]

I believe the process of taking out the bolts is so you can put lock tight on them as vibrations can cause them to loosen and allow oil to leak between the timing case and the block. I understand where you are coming from but the bolts are most likely not stretched at the recommend torque requirements.

[@faraima6126]

Cat in the workshop😥

[@brauliojosevillamizar6453]

Cómo consigo la pieza amigo

[@marcus3836]

Is it possible to remove engine and do kdp with out touching engine timing? Or does some one have a how to?

[@redsite001]

I did mine. Drain coolant and oil, then just remove the fan, fan shroud, radiator hose, harmonic balancer, belt, pulleys, crankshaft sensor, then pull off the oil fill tube and take off the timing cover. It's not as hard of a job as it looks. We used a big vice grip and clamped it onto the balancer to remove the bolts.

[@CrazyForCooCooPuffs]

@@redsite001 radiator hose doesn't need to be removed

[@redsite001]

@@CrazyForCooCooPuffs makes it way easier when it's out of the way when you pull the fan and shroud

[@CurtisDrew1]

Obviously Pork Chop was insisting you let him in the house so he could go pee in his litter box. But, since you i him he said "I'll show you!" Amd pees on your drill press... Cats aren't stupid! They actually try to communicate. You just don't speak Cat very well. Doing my front seal tomorrow and that's why I'm here. Looking at how others have done theirs. My Cummins is under the floor of my Class A RV. So it's a "cough" challenge to work on. Timing cover is on my desk as I type. Gonna bump up the old girl (12 valve) to 400 hp by the time it's all over. Already swapped in an Allison 1000 5 speed with reprogrammed stand alone TCM.

[@MarkShinnick]

Spray some rubbing alcohol at 'em while telling the cat "no" at the time of the wrong behaviors....they understand pretty kwik.

[@israelsarabia2700]

Pork chop is Pissed ...Literally

[@buixote]

How 'bout we just drill a hole in the cover and put in a sheet-metal screw to hold the pin in?

[@LowQualityFilms-in1og]

I guess its worth a shot. Your going to have know where to put the screw in relation to the cover. You will need some kind of gasket on the sheet metal screw. The thing is if you are doing this job then you are taking care of multiple issues like oil leaks on the cover and the front crank. These engines are not getting any younger, if you do decide to put a self tapper screw then please post a video. Thanks for the comment.

[@buixote]

@@LowQualityFilms-in1og I was thinking either JB Weld, or maybe spot-welding the screw head... understand about getting other maintenance done... just sorta thinking out loud...*and* lazy! ;-) Actually, what I really need to do is replace the tappet cover gasket, which is also going to be a pain.

[@LowQualityFilms-in1og]

It just so happens that I have a video on changing the tappet cover and yes it takes a lot of work. Honestly if you have to do one of the jobs then you might as well get them all done at once.

[@acemogany6369]

Cant u just tack weld over it