Front Crank Case Seal Install: 5.9L/6.7L Dodge Cummins

[@erichctransportation4245]

Thanks for great video save me a lot money, were I can buy those parts and tools?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Front crank case seal www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3802820/ Front crankshaft seal installation tool www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3824498/ Front Crank Case Seal Kit www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/stock-replacement/dodge-89-07-front-crank-seal.htm

[@erichctransportation4245]

Awesome

[@coleriedel751]

THANK YOU for showing every frustrating second and not skipping forward. It helps to see what im actually tackling

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

We keep things real around here.

[@pelvismc]

@@thoroughbreddiesel thank you very much ! I have a question about cover gasket. Could you use a 12v gasket cover on 24 v cover instead to put sealant?

[@susilasusi3942]

@@pelvismc I am n

[@mikemurphy9953]

BEST, real time, full explanation, step by step video EVERRRRRR!!! Thank you so much for the great content and all the info!! +++++

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You're very welcome!

[@michaeldixon908]

Very informative video. Thanks, I have this task coming up shortly when I do the KDP on my 94, 5.9

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Good luck! Thanks!

[@cjames1322]

Just an FYI. Dodge sells this cover that has the seal already installed. Save you the headache of installing a new seal in the cover, and cleaning the cover you’ve taken off. It cost me $75.00 for the cover. (2014 Ram 2500 SLT 6.7L). Be careful with the fan motor, and the clip, it breaks easily and the motor isn’t cheap. Be careful not to dent the radiator. Stay calm, and good luck.

[@davidbatalden9087]

I had my seal done at the dealer under warranty and got a free radiator out of it, the mechanic poked a whole in it during the process!.

[@Therobert1441]

Do you have the link for where you ordered the cover that has the seal already

[@johnnysprocketz]

@@Therobert1441 no he doesnt bc he didnt even do the repair!

[@christophersuttle4007]

It's 250 for a new cover

[@LovelessRanch]

@@johnnysprocketz came here to say this exact same thing! Amen brother

[@dans94z28]

Lmao do not! Pry on it. Let me get a pry bar.

[@chrisconley8105]

Thank you for not editing out the challenges, like the harmonic balancer removal, too many video's edit difficulties, therefore editing the process of solving those difficulties. It takes great effort to for an experienced mechanic to put themselves in the mindset of the inexperienced and not skip over some minor but important details. Great job, thanks again, Chris

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You're welcome and thanks!

[@russellbuchanan6110]

Thank goodness for your videos you are a good instructor.

[@jujodaro8992]

I find it very good explanation video; I have noticed there is not tone ring in the balancer?

[@richardwelkiv8325]

Thank you for the video . Your install tool appears to be very robust . If I were making one I always like to use threaded rod . I would take yours and drill a hole dead center and slide a piece of threaded rod right threw . Then I would take a piece of flat stock to cover the back side with a hole in it . Pass the threaded rod through put a nut on both sides and just crank in the nut on the tool side . Steady even pressure . I do it mainly because for me it'e easier as I do not have your skills or talent . Once again thank you for the video .

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You're welcome. Happy to help.

[@williamstanat3423]

Should have read before commenting. Thanks!!

[@cameronsolberg9320]

Cummins actually calls for Loctite 277 on page 1-43 of the repair manual

[@chilidog73]

Thank you for this! Be nice if you'd also do a oil pan gasket replacement on a 2001 5.9. : )

[@jaykay8570]

do you wait for the rtv sealant to harden or put it on wet? thanks for the great vid. With my luck, I'll strip or break one of those 10mm bolts... What happens then-- put the truck down like a lame mule?

[@dixiemae5042]

Good deal. And you're in Kentucky too.

[@bags4930]

Yeah there are some great folks here in KY. I see you over at Sam's V Belt often. Thought I'd say hello. These guys are not far from me and very knowledgable and helpful. A KY way.

[@bearkawiboy6246]

Older video but did anyone else watching this when he held up the cover with the sealant on it and think, that’s a lot of sealant going into the oil pan/pick up screen!

[@jaredmayer3960]

Is it normal for the wear sleeve to crunch onto the edge of the Key like that? If you warmed (220 degrees) the wear sleeve up it would slip on there...just slide it over until it touches the key and let it cool...boom you’re done. No tools required.

[@pdb4382]

I was looking for a KDP tab video that didn't skip steps. This was perfect even if it wasn't what the video was made for.

[@Rcoon3]

Replaced my front main using your instructions. As it turned out I definitely needed the wear sleeve. Easy to put on. Works like a charm...no more leaks 👍 Thanks for the video and instructions 👍

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You're welcome. Happy to help.

[@pancholopez7020]

How you put the wear sleeve on if you dont have that tool? (Cause is expensive 😓)

[@spencersgarage]

How many miles did yours have?

[@maamad1234]

awesome video. I got a 2nd gen 12v that I gotta replace the front main on... do you think a wear sleeve is recommended if the truck only has 160k miles?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Its really going to depend on what you find when you get in there. If you can feel a groove on the crank with your fingernail, I would suggest the wear sleeve.

[@maamad1234]

@@thoroughbreddiesel sweet okay simple enough thanks bud 💪

[@maamad1234]

hey bud im back... why do you put the wear sleeve on with the chamfered edge towards the motor?

[@dormangriffin2850]

It is not wise to lay the fan clutch down. It should always be sat down in a vertical position. The part suppliers have even learned to set them on the shelf upright bc the fluid will travel to one side of the clutch causing premature failure

[@jamesdavies7526]

purchased the Mahle Cummins 5.9 timing cover crank seal, part 48383. It has a skinny black seal that I have not seen before....

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

The black o-ring is for the trucks that have that o-ring on the catch can on the front cover.

[@geraldhawkins7144]

Awesome video thanks for explaining everything im fixing to change mine also and i will be using your video

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Thank you for the kind words. This is why we do what we do. Good luck with your install!

[@stevenbean9706]

i always install from the back and even with the tool its never right im always going back to fix it from the front. if your motor needs a wear sleeve it probably needs a whole lot more than a wear sleeve

[@2006megablue]

You should put links to the tools you use in the video.. Mainly cause I've tried to find them an There not in your store

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Links are in the description.

[@KamionKing]

Turns out Ford does make something good.

[@kennethsmith1233]

What did ford make that was good?

[@kennethsmith1233]

Ha ha I seen it comented before I finished video

[@andreszenteno8282]

Thanks for your video. Is the same process for 2005 ..

[@jessiej3991]

Here is a crazy idea take the damn fan pulley off first

[@aircommuter]

absolutely

[@ronneh7541]

I have this can below my crankshaft filter, there's a tube from filter to this can. I have oil all over the front. I can't see where it's leaking around the crankshaft cover. I'm going crazy with all this oil.

[@stansabick2700]

Thank you very much for this video! I am wondering how to remove an old repair sleeve? Will it be easily pulled, or is there another tool which will be needed? I am getting ready to tackle this, and will be picking up all the correct tools, and supplies from you guys to do so.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

More than likely if you didn’t put a repair sleeve on the engine, it probably won't have one. The Cummins procedure for removing an old sleeve is to lightly chisel the old sleeve off, being careful not to damage the crank.

[@tonynewsomjr.4043]

Weld 4 nuts onto the sleeve and make a metal plate with 4 holes a d put a wooden block In between then insert bolts a d evenly crank down on the bolts until it pulls the old sleeve off but wear sleeves are not installed from the factory so u won't alwasy have one

[@Ry_Guy]

@@tonynewsomjr.4043 Wow I'd never put welding heat to the crankshaft like that, seems risky and unnecessary. I'd rather chisel it carefully as recommended.

[@iarehelopilot]

Great video! Very thorough! What did you use to clean the cover and mounting surface? Mine has been taking an oil shower for a while and it is a huge mess. I have the radiator out as it sprung a leak.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

The mounting surface we cleaned with a roll loc gasket cleaner. I have soaked the front covers in a Dawn degreaser solution that softens up the grime, then can be cleaned off the next day.

[@daviddegennaro4223]

Awesome video, was able to get it done on my 06’ 5.9 with 339,000 miles…was stressful, but this video helped every step of the way! Out of curiosity how much would it cost to do this job at Thoroughbred Diesel?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Great to hear! We no longer work on customers' trucks.

[@robertlucero_rloosarow]

Permatex 59214 versus 54540: I searched the comments and found nothing. Is this a viable option?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Either are fine.

[@PerfectQue]

Nice Job! My 94 5.9 cover had a gasket on it? would you suggest using a small amount of RTV on both sides of it during install?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Yes the 12 valve guys are lucky and they get a gasket. I know the rtv on the gasket works for people, but I never have done it. But if it works for you keep on keepin' on!

[@jcmoney7729]

I was told to never use oil or anything on the shaft that the seal is being installed on. How on that

[@ryanbozarth129]

Will this wprk on a 3rd gen i have a 2005 5.9 is there anything like timing marks or anything on the 3rd gens if your trying to replace timing cover gasket on it?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

The harmonic balancer has a timing position on it that will need to be noted before removal. None of the other geartrain components will be disturbed doing this job.

[@Knightguard10Guard]

Hi I have the 24v cummins does the harmonic balancer needs any threat lock on the bolts? When putting it back together.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Installation does not call for locktite.

[@AllOutClay]

Do you suggest permatex over an oem gasket for the front cover?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

The 5.9 98.5 and up and 6.7’s trucks call for silicone sealer on the front cover, there is no gasket.

[@franklyons5104]

Great video. No mention of the dowel pin? Must have already been done on this motor.

[@jakejudkins8652]

dowel pin was on 12v cummins his truck is 24v

[@kenuber4766]

Wade, you never touched on the "KDP".Aguy should really take a look at that when he's in there like that. Just saying.

[@CurtDeMuth-co8in]

Is there any correct way install a front Cummins 5.9 crank seal without removing the timing cover?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Much easier to do removing the cover, but we don’t offer a tool to do it installed.

[@georgecooper8710]

If you don't use the balancer bolts to pull it up onto the crank, how do you get it pulled up onto the crank?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

The sleeve? You need to use the sleeve install tool.

[@jordansexoticsfloridaman4999]

Been dreading this job and buying oil. This gives me more hope for sure

[@spidracer]

Great video as always. THANK YOU! was going great so far on my 06 Mega 3500 DRW but now stuck on having to remove an old sleeve on-there. Will try the chisel recommendation, but not super confident... Maybe applying heat/torch to the sleeve surface will help? Or will the heat make it worse? Last resort is to pay some mobile welder for the nutz method :-//

[@spidracer]

Closing the loop: Chisel worked perfectly to remove the old sleeve. Thank you Thoroughbred Diesel !

[@Nathangies]

I always use a wear sleeve. Any motor over 150K miles is going to have a groove in the crank from my experience and the install tools are a must have

[@spencersgarage]

Why does the chamferd end go towards the motor?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Because that's how it's designed.

[@stevenbean9706]

you should have started off at 20:31

[@thedolphinDog]

just wanted to say...Thank You

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Thank you for your kind words. This is why we do what we do.

[@scusemethankyou]

I've seen other ways to do this job, but THIS guy goes through every process! I watched the video 3 times before I started and had to revisit some parts as I was doing the job. I'm glad that I ordered the crank repair sleeve because my crank snout was really worn (at only 228,000 miles!), causing a monster oil leak. The Ford permatex and the LocTite 545 worked beautifully. Installed a KDP kit and a water pump while I had it apart. Thanks for such an informative video, sir!

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You're welcome!

[@joshcallen4838]

Do the new front crank seals that have a red coating on the outside still require the LocTite 545? A lot of conflicting info out there. Some say the red coating is a sealant and adding the LocTite to this will make it leak. Thanks @@thoroughbreddiesel

[@robertzancanella2866]

My Cummins seal came with a red coating on the outer surface instead of the bare metal on the one you show. I'm thinking it is a sealing material so would I still use the Loctite 545? Great video!

[@CxDOGxLEM]

I wouldn't think so. My oem 175000 mile seal without the red coating had absolutely no oil make it's way through that area. It all came out of the seal. I just installed a seal with that red coating without the loctite.

[@sampatton548]

22:30 to hear minecraft walking sounds. You're welcome.

[@Kmag5]

Any particular way to do it if not using the depth setter

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You can eyeball it or measure as you go.

[@genetaylor7421]

Wade, thank you so much for all the videos you and your team produce for us dyiers. Thoroughbred diesels help all us owners keep our vehicles on the road. Thank you sir

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Our pleasure! You're welcome! Thank you!

[@austinlong2737]

For the 2006 do I have to replace the whole cover in order to replace the ccv filter/canister?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Unfortunately yes, you have to replace the whole cover. If you want to get away from that, you can go with an aftermarket valve cover and use an external filter or catch can.

[@danmahony4266]

Did you only use silicone as the gasket

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

For the 1998.5 and up trucks, yes.

[@TheCaperfish]

always put the top stud back in before putting cover back on and use it to guide you on , then ya don't have to rotate cover any to find bolt holes and mess up yer RTV

[@weepweep2225]

Hey Wade, on my 01 24v Cummins I was curious on if there is an oil gasket or something sitting to the side of the A/C compressor? Looks like I’m leaking a lot of oil but can’t pin point exactly where, but I know the crank seal is leaking and I’m not sure if my CCVF has ever been changed either 🤷

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

It could be blowing back from the crank seal. I would replace it and then see what you are left with. On the AC comp side, there is only oil filter housing gasket but I haven’t seen those leak.

[@MrSh4des]

You dont put a gasket on the timing case cover?

[@stevehardeman7209]

Brother i'm in the middle of this RIGHT NOW , your video was everything I needed to have peace about this job ,Thanks Steve

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Thank you. That is why we make the videos. :)

[@Daverodd06]

How do you remove the wear sleeve

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Cummins instructions are to strike the wear sleeve in 3 to four places around the sleeve with a dull(ish) chisel and this will loosen the sleeve.

[@miguelromo1722]

Why not heat the wear sleeve in hot oil?

[@TD_YT066]

Once you get the wear sleeve tool started straight, mark one of the flats on each bolt with a sharpie so you know they're turning in sync.

[@4csfabrication621]

I was searching for a rear main seal video but could not find. Is the rear pretty much the same process particularly with the loctite 545? Thanks great video!

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Thanks! We haven’t done a rear main video yet, but Loctite on the rear main is not called for.

[@12vshady]

This ole Country boy is a hell of a mechanic. Just need move the microphone to not record his breathing. It’s overwhelming.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

We've improved of mic setup. Thanks.

[@schnellgelb1746]

Great video.Thank you.I found it much easier to use your excellent fitting tool with a hydraulic PRESS ,than a hammer.Easy to get it to go in 'square'.The comment about the clearance between the cover and the gears is important.Mine had just clipped the inside of the cover in 2 places. Use a Gasket !!

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You're welcome!

[@chadjohnson7544]

Awesome videos. Taught me alot. This guy is highly educated and accurate.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Thanks Chad!

[@forgetfuljones]

While this video is Super Informative, it adds one step that causes great confusion on my end. The Locktite 545 step... I have always heard & have always read in part instructions, that it is imperative this seal go in "clean & dry" without the aid of lubricants or rtv's getting it where it needs to go. In other words, the Teflon seal needs unobstructed/clean contact with the crank snout. If that's the case, why are we using the 545?? It seems to fly in the face of all the warning literature that usually come in the box with the Part.

[@mj23polairs]

Keep the videos coming love this shit

[@trueamerican7034]

Great job, you didn't mention any speculation as to reason for seal failure, while no close-up crank didn't look bad at all. Wondering if crank ventilation malfunction is causing pressure in crankcase wearing out seal prematurely. My 2005 3500 5.9 seems to be leaking , amount is considerably different with RPM..

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Thank you!

[@scottgoen9736]

I am about to take this job on since I am replacing the radiator, thermostat, water pump and belt tensioner on my 2001 4x4 with 265k miles on it. I got the Ford 7.3 gasket maker like you recommended. It recommends a couple of other Ford products for cleaning and prepping the surfaces for this task. One of these recommended products is from $160-$250 for surface cleaning wipes. I'm obviously not going that route and wanted to ask what you would recommend as a cleaning solvent for this in addition to using scotch brite. Thanks for making these helpful videos for us do it ourselfers.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You're welcome! Good luck!

[@racing4me2]

What about killer pin

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Not AS big of a problem in the 24V trucks.

[@jayjackson676]

You guys have the best videos I watch them all the time and it helps me work on my 06 2500 & 3500 everything is always explained meticulously and well and everything is done to a T love them. Please don’t stop making them.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Thank you!

[@jacobworkman1040]

Curious what kind of oil you're using just before installing the wear sleeve. Looks lightweight, but I want to be sure. If anyone knows, I'd appreciate the help. Thanks! --Jake

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Hey Jake, just normal 15W40.

[@meldeer6253]

as all was a great video a couple of guys tryed telling me you had to remove the camshaft iv went to Dana Tec school in Ohio i guess they thought a old timer was to stupid to do this CRANK SHAFT seal just as i expected it to be stright forward thank you THOROUGHBRED DIESEL

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You're welcome!

[@pauljeand3659]

very informative, very well done however, it would have been nice to tell us the grossly overprized tools, total for plastic install too & 2 bolt metal sleeve tool is $ 272,42 + usual tax&shipping&handling…..it takes about max.$2.dollars of material to make...… like everything else cummings I call it criminal prize gouging

[@tonynewsomjr.4043]

Not if u price shop online. U can get both tools for around $100 or so if you price shop online a d not just buy the first ones you see.

[@12vshady]

How hard is it to get that wear sleeve off ? And approximately how many miles/hours do expect it to under daily driving and regular hauling ?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

To remove you just hit it in three places with a chisel and that makes relief so that it can be removed. I cant answer that on wear, Ive run one for 50,000 miles and not seen any noticeable wear to be concerned about.

[@christopherbuckner6754]

So instead of buying the cover gasket, you used permatex?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

The 98.5-2007 5.9’s front covers take Permatex. There is no gasket.

[@calebboyett6591]

Couldn't you take the six bolts off the fan drive pulley, remove the pulley, then have access to use a ratchet and socket on the bolt behind the pulley?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You can, in this case the bolts on the pulley were tight enough that I couldn’t hold the pulley and get the bolts broke loose, so I removed the whole drive.

[@ronbonick4265]

Have you done or could you do a bearing change on the fan hub ? On a 5.9 ... There has to be a way to change out the bearing and not buy the whole assembly

[@kesslerbuslines9861]

I have one with 305k miles should I count on needing the wear seal bushing without tearing into it yet ?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

It’s a visual thing. Once you get there, if the groove is deep enough, go with a sleeve.

[@guateusa502]

Nice job everything was explained well thank you very much

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

You are welcome!

[@noxdout_cummins4247]

The new 6.7 cranks have a dowel already in them if I'm correct how will the wear sleeve tool work with that I didn't see any ports for that to poke through

[@REXONATER70]

I got a billit front cover plate. Will this seal kit and these tools still set the depth on the new cover?

[@saleva403]

Thanks for the great video. Question: is this the same for the third gen? My harmonic balance has a tdc tic mark on it. Should I bring the motor to tdc before removal?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Not necessary to bring to TDC, but the crank for the common rails is a little different in that it has an alignment dowl on it. That dowel will need to be removed if you are using the wear sleeve installation tool.

[@ELPATRON839]

Do you have to lock the engine to do this ?

[@Zak6959]

Since you had the front cover off, i'm surprized you didn't inspect the dowel pin in the front cover for the "killer dowel pin" update.

[@spencercampbell8396]

He's workin on a 24v not a 12v

[@Billybobaggins9]

Is 6.7 fan left hand thread as well?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

6.7 are right hand threads. Looking at the truck from the front, you have to turn the fan counter clockwise to remove.

[@Billybobaggins9]

@@thoroughbreddiesel yessir can confirm sat there with my air hammer tool like shown in the video hitting it back on forth until I committed to left loosey haha

[@GregoryJohnston77]

We really need to get him some Milwaukee ratchets lol. It felt like 1903 with actual ratchets and wrenches. All kidding aside, awesome video.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

LOL....thank you!

[@grubb910]

Why did you not just remove the pulley from the fan support, instead of fighting that bolt with a wrench? That makes no sense to me.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

I tried to show how to do this with the rad in place, and I try to do as little work in front of a rad as I can. I know it makes no sense but you would have had to walk the miles I've walked in my shoes. You are right, would work both ways.

[@getitmovedllc.5491]

I'm planning on getting everything I need to install both gaskets on my 94 12 timing cover.... Always majorly saving my life motivational to me.... Salute , , blessings to everyone grind and motivations......

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Glad I could help!

[@luketimmer6108]

Love the long videos. The details are what make the job work!!

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Glad you like them!

[@loxmup123]

Great video! You do need a new camera man! Lol

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Thanks. Such is life.

[@acastillo5870]

i have a 97 5.9l does this engine have a crank case filter I cant seem to find one on the internet?

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

The crankcase breather is part of the tappet cover.

[@DarinRaymond]

Thank you very much for an excellent video. Changing out my seal today.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Very welcome!

[@joescott1674]

Not sure about the music, can barely hear what's being said!

[@jackbolt7163]

Is this process the same for 2016 6.7?

[@sarge12212]

2 questions. I noticed you did not install a KDP keeper. Was there on already in place? Also, you did not replace the water pump while you were in there. Why not? My 2000 non-53 block Cummins has only 205k miles. I've owned it 20 years, bought at 53k miles and it has not been worked very hard. Is the crankshaft wear spacer necessary in my case? I do plan on keeping it as my last truck.

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

KDP kit is probably something that should have been done at this time however its isn't as big of a problem on the 24 valve trucks so we didn’t attack it. Water pump would have also been a nice upgrade, but was recently done on that truck. I do suggest doing the wear sleeve with the mileage on your truck just for piece of mind.

[@sarge12212]

Thank you, I will.

[@joecostu1571]

What is KDP?

[@joeg9200]

So how did you get off the balancer??

[@iamgabriel5398]

What does the shop charge on a job like this ?

[@marioguillen6910]

Great video im about to do a work in a dodge with that leaking problem Nice tools I really looking yo buy so it will make my job easier

[@thoroughbreddiesel]

Glad I could help!