Equalizer Industries Launches Two New Auto Glass Tools

Jason Stahl, editor of BodyShop Business, discusses two of Equalizer Industries’ newest auto glass tools, the Transformer and Power Pump. The Transformer is a drill-powered cord and wire removal tool that works with your existing vacuum cup. The Power Pump is a universal 1-1/16th inch plunger that uses AirForce technology to create constant suction in a variety of vacuum cups.

[@HumbledSir]

This is interesting, i cannot stand the spider tool and python and any other wire removal tools. They just dont work for all vehicles. Cups slide around. Wire breaks constantly, if you cant get the moulding out thats a nightmare for those tools. I have yet to find a tool thats as consistent and fast as an air knife and tool like the ambush.

[@heathmorang3954]

Time saving is not the reason these tools were invented. The cut out tools you are referring too are great tools and as a glass shop owner of 25 plus years we have plenty of ambush tools around the shop. These wire tools are great for what they are intended for, which is doing the job correctly ! You don’t scratch the vehicle in anyway. Yes they take longer yes the cord breaks from time to time but the job is done better with less risk. Anyone that says they’ve never scratched a vehicle with a ambush tool and cold knife is full of shit. Those scratches turn to rust and I’ve seen it a million times in parking lots where the top of the roof line is starting to rust and that’s 99 percent of the time because a windshield was improperly done. It’s worth the time it takes to do the job correct. The extra ten minutes it takes will leave you with a customer base with a whole lot less issue !

[@HumbledSir]

@@heathmorang3954 i get the no scratches, but the ambush and air knife have been around for many years and even with scratches, if the job is done right there wont be any rust. I can handle the wire braking sometimes. But the suction cup does not stay in place. Ive used 3 different wire cut out tools and all of them move around so much it takes 30 minutes or more to cut out 1 windshield. It drives me mental when i have 4 hours to do 3 or 4 windshields. Maybe i just got all faulty ones but noone can get them to stay in place. And every other shop ive talked to had the same problem

[@K0RP53]

I find that if you are using the Spider or Orange bat, it's best to very slow, especially when it's a glass with setting pins. The pins tend to break the cord if you are going too fast. The cord will also break if you don't maintain a good angle that's beyond a 95-degrees from the cutting point. Anything less than 95 degrees will break the line due to excessive strain on the cord. Going slow helps alot along with a good cutting angle. If the urethane is old (old car with original glass for example) it tends to put more strain on the line too. The slower the movement, the better.

[@HumbledSir]

@@K0RP53im the senior tech with 2 newbies and we have 8 hours to do 8-10 windshields of all varieties. I dont get to go slow unfortunately. We are the only glass shop in my town and dont get much slow time next to doing industrial, residential and commercial glass on top of automotive. But even after using the wire tool and not scratching anything, the bead still needs to be cut down, and usually grinded. So scratches can happen either way. I see a lot of jobs come in with the bead laid on the window first and it gets caked all over the top where i have to scratch the paint to get it out and correct it. Or beads that peel off the old one because it wasnt prepped properly to avoid scratches. Which would not hold up in a roll over. Ive gotten extremely good with the air knife and ambush that i dont scratch the paint with either and have the window out in 5-10 minutes. But usually end up having to paint scratches anyways because of poor work done previously, or from having to grind areas that need it. The btb push knifes make scratches anyways, specially if the bead isnt the perfect size, and perfect width with no bends for the knife, the ones without a curved edge also scratch if it digs into any rised spot that may not be noticeable. I prefer the olfa blade and if the job was done right when i get into it, can cut it down with no scratches and within 5-10 minutes as well. So either way, each step can make scratches, so spending the time it takes to get 3-4 windows out just for 1 seems counter productive to me. So many beads are too fat that the only vehicles it works good on are ones from factory. Thats my opinion and experience of 10 years tho. Ive tried many different ways and all end the same. So i stick with the fastest way that has the same results or better and have impressed the ARA guys with quality control check ups. I do take great pride in my work and make sure every vehicle leaves feeling 100% sure that person will survive a roll over and wont have a rust bucket.

[@DKStudiosful]

Hope it is better then the Viper. That thing is garbage...

[@K0RP53]

If you don't mind me asking, Whats bad about it? I almost got it but I went with the WRD Spider 4 and the WRD Orange Bat. Both devices work very well for me. I wonder what made the viper a bad choice.