Epoxy vs Urethane Casting Resin

[@mograms]

Undercut to lock the parts together was so smart!

[@laurelland-1395]

This is the epoxy resin you need : IB2 epoxy infusion resin We use this to infuse glass and carbon fiber in PU/Epxy molds. It flows REALLY well and the cure product has very good mechanical caracteristics. It lacks of elongation at break, but it is still very good for silicone molds. You will have litle to no flash, it is odorless, and it is absolutely clear so the tinting process is very easy. I made motorcycle brake lights replicas with this resin, it was perfect.

[@mikestavisky8009]

Hey bud, I enjoy your videos, I do production pour casting for a family owned urethane business in NE PA. When we have an open top mold, I just fill it it a little over and either scrape a Ross the top with a good putty knife/drywall tool or use a block of steel/aluminum and slide it across the top of the part. It works very well. You just have to use a smooth continously motion. What you are left with is just regular flash. For some molds we even cast in guide rails for the purpose of the final sliding piece. It is occasionally possible to get a bubble with the slide top method, but a quick dremel of the surface and a dab of material after initial demoldis all it takes to fix it. Good luck and ty for the content as it is also something I do as a hobby. P.s. is it strange that when I'm off work I'm spending any amount of spare time watching you do the same/similar thing haha.

[@EricStrebel]

Cool, thanks for the tip

[@vasyapupken]

you can control free surface of a one part mold quite easily. just cover it with glass or any flat piece with release agent on it. this requires only slight change in the mold itself - mold bottom (top) needs to be flat as well so no plastic cups )

[@davefloyd9443]

Can you explain that a bit more please? Are you saying to build the box on glass bottom sheet?

[@EricStrebel]

I believe what he is saying that the top of the mold just needs to be flat so that you can put some release agent on a piece of glass and when you pour your part, Just slap the glass on top of it so that it comes out flat once it's cured.

[@davefloyd9443]

@@EricStrebel Hi Eric! Thanks. I mold little flat bottom fishing baits in an open topped mold (bottom of mold case). I've been gluing the flat side of the master to pieces of smooth, plastic laminated shelf and building the box up from there. Just cant get a flush "top" because silicone leaks up to the glue line, causing thin flashing. Looking for a cleaner finish really.

[@EricStrebel]

That's why I make all my molds as two part molds, and almost never as open face mold because you can't control that top surface when it's an open face. Simple as that.

[@davefloyd9443]

@@EricStrebel Yep I've been coming to that conclusion myself after watching your channel. Trouble I have with that is that when laid flat some of the fish and worm masters are less than 10mm high, making for very thin molds. They are sort of fat ballpen sized. Should I look at molding these vertically?

[@TalkingGIJoe]

I make almost all my molds using that plastic cup open face method. Works really well for small pieces. Any issues I've had were related either to materials mismatch or improper mixing.

[@3toedSloth75]

Epoxies do vary in scent, viscosity, and curing times by quite a lot. But a common trick to cure epoxies faster is to use heat (usually, per the material SDS supplied with the resin). So turn on the heater on your pressure pots and you can usually remove it in a few hours. The thing I can't stand is the mekp and styrene off gassing from polyester resins like those used for fiberglass parts.

[@WestKyCrime]

Eric, Really good production values - camera work, voiceover, detail shots, discriprion, and of course, your the content is spot on! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

[@EricStrebel]

Thanks!

[@negotiableaffections]

Hi Eric, I'm always amazed by your solutions to the 'tricky bits' of mold making, e.g. the separate mold part for the delicate clip/prong part. My 'stupid' question (i'm a very small time, part maker with 0 budget) is, do you dispose of the syringes after one use or can they be cleaned of the resin? ..and if so, how?

[@EricStrebel]

Resin comes right off. Does not stick to the plastic

[@Miatasun]

hello, what kind of resin would you use for example automotive parts like a cam belt cover? I loved the trick at the beginning of the video, with that small clip moulding.

[@EricStrebel]

It really depends on the properties you want for your part. Check with your preferred resin supplier, they usually have tech support to help with that.

[@jakethomas6123]

Found you today. I love your ideas!

[@TM-rp7bd]

Just starting out here....if one was to take a typical 300 lb. capacity shop swivel caster wheel and try to repair the cracked and crumbled solid rubber tire over a metal hub.....using the original caster as the mold....... for a 1-time use, (assuming its stripped, cleaned, prepped, sealed openings with clay, plywood box, etc.), what is the best material and/or method for that kind of operation? I figure this might be a good project for a first timer never having worked with this stuff before. cheers. thanks

[@EricStrebel]

Pretty complex, not something I would advise for a first casing project. Plus it's round and that is hard. Use polyurethane

[@Pushyhog]

vids just keep getting better

[@LuxeonIII]

I do a lot of open face molds I make using machinable wax and a cnc , I set a flat piece on top after the pour that has a small hole to allow the resin to escape as the flat

[@rbfour5]

Great comparison video! I haven’t seen you post anything for a while and was getting concerned. But glad to to see you post. I’ll be sending you a project to quote for me. Thanks!

[@scottgray6276]

Would a flat piece of plastic or glass with release on it dropped over the opening of the mold eliminate the meniscus, giving the casting a flat, flush back, or reduce the excess resin to flash, instead of a lump?

[@morenovanbuynder4947]

i want to make a fender for a dirtbike so the part needs to be able to flex a little bit, what kind of resin would you advise for this application

[@EricStrebel]

Reach out to tech support at your favorite resin supplier for assistance. I recommend BJB enterprises

[@JeffroDH]

Can epoxy or urethanes replace PVC components say, in a swimming pool?

[@EricStrebel]

In theory yes, make sure it's UV stable

[@l0I0I0I0]

Urethane or epoxy, which last the longest and how long? TY for the great vid!

[@EricStrebel]

It depends on your application and environment along with final use. Check with the manufacturer specs for hardness UV and deflection, etc

[@l0I0I0I0]

@@EricStrebel Great work btw! Thanks for sharing your expertise!

[@LIGOHOUSE]

Hi, what glue you use for all the small parts you glued with the needle tip. Thanks

[@brappineau4161]

this is very similar to the shape and size of the parts i need to make. do you take on clientele?

[@EricStrebel]

Yes, link in the description to the website

[@giangquangvinh6487]

can you have a video where you explain more about the key seals in the silicon? Is it to hold the silicon mold in place? I see sculptors would often build a clay wall and make half spheres registration marks or sometimes they do zigzag line so the parts line up. This video is where i first see this method so i would like to find out more. Or where can i read more about it? Thank you

[@EricStrebel]

Made it up actually, all the other methods you mention are pre laser. You need a laser or a way to make a digital key for this to work. Yes the key seal hold the two halfs together. Almost every video in the last 2 years of mine used this technique in some way shape or form

[@giangquangvinh6487]

@@EricStrebel how interesting to even think about the history of moldmaking itself, and also how artists and product designers make molds for their works also fascinates me as i'm learning right now

[@marcins5584]

What is the difference between urethan resin and polyurethane?

[@EricStrebel]

Same stuff

[@Whitburn.Surfboards]

Is there a good way to reuse the syringe? Acetone or something to clean it?

[@EricStrebel]

Let the rein cure and remove the material

[@Pit4all]

Have you considered applying a thin coat of PVA on the rubber part before pouring the platinum silicone? form what i did in the past, its the safest way to guarantee the curing by addition in unknown resins and rubbers

[@EricStrebel]

No, I have not considered it, as is would alter the size of the part. It would probably work though

[@BMWEiV-Drivingaroundtheworld]

Hi, what do you use to tin down the vaseline?

[@EricStrebel]

Naptha

[@S11-o9s]

hi eric, when i google epoxy resin the only thing show me is chair or table i didnt see casting sculpture using epoxy resin.could u explain that why?

[@EricStrebel]

My guess would be because it's not generally used for that

[@briancruz3551]

I dont get what is that black rubber stopeer used for. Can someone explain

[@EricStrebel]

it's explained in the video in the beginning

[@artipose]

I wonder if one advantage of epoxy over urethane is its sensitivity to humidity? Isn't epoxy more resistant to absorbing water or moisture from the air?

[@EricStrebel]

Correct

[@Decrypt_Symbol]

Hi, I have a Honda Jazz. I want to manufacture a 24-tooth plastic gear for the side mirror myself. There are many chemical options available, but which liquid chemical should I use? I want to avoid the gear breaking while rotating, and I don’t want it to be affected by heat or cold. Please give me some advice, your fan is asking for your help.

[@alexmordred]

Unless you really cannot buy one, I'd look into FDM 3D printing (have it printed if it's a one time thing). I think it's much easier for small parts like that that don't need to have a smooth glossy finish VS making a two-sided silicone mold etc. Plastic gears are usually made out of nylon, which is kinda hard to 3D print but should be doable for a small part like that. Alternatively you could print that out of ABS/ASA (not as temperature resistant on the below freezing side but much easier to print).

[@GlitterIsland]

I use polyurethane casting resin for repairing vintage toys and figurine making, with silicone molds. I much prefer it over epoxy slow cure resins, the brand of polyurethane I use is "color pro" as it cures within 15 minutes to a transparent color, allowing me to mix pigments in for accurate coloring, it has no smell really. I use oil based pigments that are manufactured for use in urethanes, rubbers, and silicones like "so strong" or "ignite" by smooth on and find they are concentrated enough that just 1 drop will do the trick. Cannot use epoxy resin dyes with polyurethane, as the urethane isn't forgiving when it comes to moisture. I like polyurethane resin because it gets all the fine details of my micro molds, due to its water like consistency and flow. I like the fast curing time, and the lower amount of air bubbles in my casts compared to traditional slow cure resins. A trick I use, is to mix the color I want with either part A or B so i can take my time to get accuracy, and then let it sit, before adding the two parts together, it allows for uniform mixing and color rather than adding color to both parts and then mixing. Edit: Forgot to add, a helpful tip: When molding an item with liquid platnium silicone, there is a trick to make gaps and holes or spaces on whatever you are duplicating with a mold easier. I use Vallejo satin varnish water thin acrylic paint meant for airbrushing miniatures and models, with a toothpick to fill the holes and gaps. It dries in about an hour and creates a film screen on wherever hole or gap it is placed. Then I can mold in the silicone, when the duplicate item comes out I can remove the filling where the gap is, because all it does is create a thin amount of flashing. The varnish is easily peelable/removable from the original figure or item. Also I utilize using a electronic hobby drill, and electronic nail art file with various fine tips to remove flashing, and fine tune certain areas. :)

[@jarrod-smith]

Curious if you know whether you can use urethanes for things like kitchen utensils (things that will touch food or drink). The Google machine is failing me on this. I understand why folks (esp manufacturers) might be shy about making claims. It's probably ridiculously expensive to have things validated at FDA and even then, errors in end use can make it a huge liability for them. I see that some epoxy resins that use BPA have been FDA-approved for some food contact. Anyway, I would appreciate your expert input on this question. I have not really worked with anything but silicone, and even then only a few times.

[@EricStrebel]

The best way is to snag the manufacturer's data sheets and c if they meet your requirements, or chatting with them directly via their support either online or on the phone.

[@ajfreeze215]

Great video! thanks for posting it! Could you maybe go over in more detail how the small part of the mold for the locking tab functions? Thanks again!

[@aquamansurfer]

i watched +10times and i still don't get how it's done, that little 3rd piece, ¿its unlocked from the mold and its putted before inject the epoxy/urethane? or how its done?

[@EnergySeeker]

which Urethane resin, do you use ? and which is the best silicon ? thanks

[@EricStrebel]

Usually listed in the description of the videos

[@csq530]

Hi can someone tell me what the THERMOSET thats used for the HOUSING of WATCHES like ARMITRON and TIMEX?

[@JSDudeca]

There is a lot of confusion about Epoxy Foams vs other foams. Any chance you have any projects to test out various foams. The Tesla 4680 battery pack apparently uses Epoxy foam to achieve added stiffness.

[@charleselkins4546]

Very nice. You make its seem so simple but I know its just not so. What were the brass tubes you were using?

[@charleselkins4546]

Sorry, I see the link for the brass tubes in the notes to your video. Thanks.

[@timothybillingsley6716]

Good content, great video, seeing the comments leads me to believe that a post about where to source the products would be helpful.

[@EricStrebel]

Check the description below the video, many of the products supplies and tools are listed there.

[@nerored6235]

I think you and Robert Tolone would have some great discussions with each other an reviews of each others videos and techniques.

[@sonotover]

Can I send you a small part to have cast in resin? I'm working on a 1/12 scale motorcycle and the kit has a missing part. I ordered another kit so I can use the part to cast a spare.

[@benargee]

I think you should get a fume hood for any noxious chemicals in your shop.

[@lorenweatherby6520]

Hi, Just found your channel. I have a 1988 Toyota fj62 Land cruiser. The center dash bezel is cracked and brittle. What type of resin would be best to use to cast new one? have never tried molding anything before ....

[@Jerry-67]

hey there- what type of cardboard do you use? thanks- just looked - all good ..

[@Emanmonster13]

great as always! I've done mold work for a while but always learns something new from you.

[@kitingmare]

I remember infusing molds for the carbon fiber parts of the Formular Student Car at my Uni. But the Epoxy there was rather thin, so might be worth a try to use some infusion resin instead of the thick one you used ? Other than that great video and an interesting mold!

[@michaelc2321]

Was is a special type of epoxy resin you used for resin casting? Was this for making a 2 part compression mold?

[@sameriraq69]

so thes is bakalite?

[@mobayguy]

Really impressive and answered my questions about resin vs. epoxy. New to this stuff so this is very helpful. Thx Eric - SUBSCRIBED

[@EricStrebel]

Awesome, thanks

[@goguyted]

Can you post a link to the brass tubing please?

[@EricStrebel]

Added

[@Made2hack]

Hey Eric, great video as always. Can you please recommend a pigment for the epoxy? I've never had good luck with coloring my epoxy resins. Thanks!

[@EricStrebel]

You should be able to use any pigment that you use for urethane resins, so any alcohol or dry pigment should work

[@T1g3rch3n]

For some Reason I can't find any Naphtha in Europe... Do you have a alternative for thining Vaseline?

[@Tarbard]

White spirit

[@EricStrebel]

You can try dish liquid and isopropyl as an alternative

[@T1g3rch3n]

@@EricStrebel I'm not sure if 'Cleaning Gasoline' is the same as Naphtha o_O I'll try both Cleaning Gasoline/Naphtha and Dish soap and IPA

[@Iridium1O]

What brand was the tin cure silicone ?

[@GastonLAU]

Hi Can I send you a project?

[@EricStrebel]

Yes, link in the description

[@MordecaiV]

I would be a little worried about the clip function in that epoxy instead of PC/ABS original part. Seems like it worked out ok, though.

[@briancruz3551]

I dont get what is that black rubber stopeer used for. Can someone explain

[@garagemonkeysan]

Great video. Super informative. Can't wait for Smell-O-Vision comes to KZbin. Mahalo for sharing! : )

[@TheRealJerseyJoe]

Superb work as always Eric ! BTW - Pour low, vent high.... wasn't that a song by Yes? ;-) LOL !

[@EricStrebel]

Hahahah

[@TheGnthreman]

You prefer tin or platinum silicone?

[@EricStrebel]

Tin cure

[@Beetletreuse]

What is the brand of the white pigment that you use? I've been researching for a good opaque white that doesn't have major issues with the resin curing. I'm trying to compile a list of some to try. Does it take a lot of pigment to get a good opaqueness? Or does a little go a long way?

[@roryleitner1532]

How much did this cost the client?

[@EricStrebel]

Probably in the 400-500 range....

[@roryleitner1532]

@@EricStrebel about how many pieces were made?

[@EricStrebel]

Perhaps around a dozen parts

[@roryleitner1532]

@@EricStrebel so about 37.50 per battery cover. Amazing.

[@KRGraphicsCG]

Using cardboard for keying is pure genius, versus dealing with the mess of modeling clay and marbles for registration keys

[@EricStrebel]

Thanks

[@KRGraphicsCG]

@@EricStrebel only part that will suck for me is not having a laser cutter (which is super cool btw). I could use MDF, and my Dremel tool to cut out a mould, but I would need a steady hand

[@EricStrebel]

Sort of the beauty of having a laser. It has totally changed the way I build models

[@KRGraphicsCG]

@@EricStrebel 😁 and it's just super cool. LASERS!!! 😁😁😁😁

[@mattmeyer6471]

What was your total cost to make the part? I have a project about that size and trying to determine if its worth it to go the injected molding route or another route.

[@medarfoul2008]

really artistic work i appreciate

[@VinokDesign]

Man Eric, your detail of mold production is amazing. got some very nice epoxy s here in Europe, some very liquid. Some long cure times. But I got the inverse experience, the urethanes smell like .... For days and the epoxy is almost totally odourless. Of course use a VOC meter to know what the air quality is. maybe I can send you the websites, they even have extra uv stabilizers that you can add. Iff I have some time I will even make a video of it. And send it to you. Greetings from Belgium

[@EricStrebel]

Rampf resins, German company

[@VinokDesign]

@@EricStrebel thank you

[@RazDesignAB]

this stuff are great! Keep it going!

[@michaelneal900]

Id have just taped the batteries in or the old cover. lol

[@ecsyntric]

this obviously has to be injection molded HDPE, ABS or some thermoplastic. for prototyping PU seems fine. aa we know thermosets cannot be re/upcycled

[@billfoster6809]

You're a pro at this! and I enjoyed your video. I just wish you would have shown us what the small silicone mold piece did for the overall mold and how it went together. And did it create additional flashing pieces ?

[@US-vy8up]

thank u

[@EricStrebel]

You're most welcome

[@Adrian-wd4rn]

Silly request, but, making a face mold would be kind of a fun tutorial.

[@EricStrebel]

Stay tuned!

[@Pushyhog]

do short vid on pouring in scale with lil math please

[@ahmedhassan-xv5ei]

very nice work

[@EricStrebel]

Thanks

[@NiclasGudmundsson]

Ohh, that was the thickest epoxy I've seen so far. I'm making carbonfiber parts and use epoxies often. I you easycomposites epoxy but they are in the UK. Try to contact composites envision in the US, I think they can set you up. The epoxy from easycomposites doesn't smell anything.

[@cryptid-artha]

I have used Naked Fusion, the Deep Cast is very fluid. The art formula is a lot thicker, but it's meant more for creating art so it's supposed to hold its shape. It takes a long time to cure, but has little to no odor in my experience

[@daysdesigns]

I make epoxy countertops using Stonecoat Epoxy. They have several different types... check em out.

[@vasyapupken]

as for smell here is a thing. epoxy can smell really bad but this smell is not so harmful. it just smells bad and that's all. polyurethane vapors on the other hand are barely noticeable. but they are straight up poison (isocyanate). so please wear proper safety equipment in any case.

[@FighterDoken]

Recommendation: Use casting urethane instead of silicone. It doesn't have the issues with inhibition.

[@ronprince1478]

Thanks, still learning at 66

[@EricStrebel]

Absolutely!

[@johnnydfred]

WEST system epoxy? Not smelly, thin 5:1. Two different set times. Dunno, just suggesting.

[@EricStrebel]

Thanks!

[@erickkadbay]

Genial 🎉

[@alaingombertchabri2970]

Otto Waalkes is an amazing dude !

[@daniellec2172]

When in the video is epoxy vs urethane explained? Bit of a bait and switch with that title ;)

[@sinnombre5466]

Cobra Kai?

[@StasonKalbason]

Молодцом!

[@Mtlhed1099]

Subscribed at "sure as shit."

[@bassome3000ify]

Sorry but you get an inverted thumb down

[@EricStrebel]

Let me know why, that helps me understand your feedback

[@mostafamersal2186]

First viewer

[@matt-lang]

Eric, check out InhibitX. It’s a super low-viscosity inhibitor for plat silicones and I use it on any materials that I haven’t already tested with plat silicone and it works well without affecting most finishes

[@EricStrebel]

Cool

[@LockStoppageSandwich]

My neighbour absolutely stinks so I hear what you are saying re the obnoxious smell and the need for correct PPE 😂

[@rossmain9120]

Excellent video, great insights. Brilliant work also. This channel now a firm favourite. 🫡

[@EricStrebel]

Thanks

[@ronprince1478]

Thanks, still learning at 66