How To Pull Honda Codes Without a Scanner -EricTheCarGuy

Link to code explanations: www.ericthecarg...
Honda ABS Codes 1994-1997: www.ericthecarg...
Honda ABS Codes 1998 and up: www.ericthecarg...
Visit me at: www.ericthecarg...
Discussion about this Video: www.ericthecarg...
I feel like I should have made this video a while ago but the opportunity never came up. Since I had this RL in my shop that had a check engine light AND an ABS light I thought it was a perfect opportunity to put this video together. I get asked all the time about my 'special tool' and it's really nothing more than a Honda 2 pin connector with the input wires soldered together. These connectors might be harder to find than you think but if you run across a junk honda and one of these is on the harness grab it. Even if you don't have the tool a paper clip or piece of wire will do the exact same thing so don't sweat it if you don't have the tool because shorting the connector is all you need to do.
I hope you find this video helpful.
Stay dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

[@GaryDelgado]

If you're at the junkyard an need a connector for this, pull the door card off a '90s-'00s Civic (and probably any Honda) or find one that someone has already torn apart. Right there affixed to the door will be the same connector, except it's colored gray, held in by a clip. Disconnect it from the harness, cut the wires a little long, and loop them. Or, for an extra clean look, de-pin one wire and insert the other's tail in its place. Now you have an OBD I Honda tool. You can test-fit the connection there at the junkyard and see that it'll snap right in to the service port. The part number for the Connector from Honda is 07PAZ-001010A. It's called SCS Service Connector.

[@ORbZ909]

This is how we learned how to take codes from cars in my high school auto class. Glad he taught us something like this. These Are mostly for older car that dont have the OBD II.

[@yveskc1]

Thank's EricTheCarGuy! You saved me a couple hundred dollars, i was able to read the code on my honda, it was telling me a bad O2 sensor, i followed your advices and with a bit of carb cleaner i cleaned the sensor ET VOILA! reset the check engine light, 600Km later and no more check engine light...

[@TheFrankerzzz]

Eric, I have a 1990 accord EX. I can’t seem to find this connector anywhere. Any idea where it is on this particular year/model? I’ve check the spots you mentioned. Thanks for the video.

[@diegopalomino1200]

Thanks Eric, I was able to find that connector and after jumping it I got a code 8 which was caused by the shift control solenoids being bad, it was easy to replace. You saved me lots dollars I am sure since transmissions shops are not cheap and I am sure they would say that I needed a transmission overhaul.

[@djblitz1985]

Thanks Ericthecarguy! I was looking for the blue clip to set my timing on my 2000 Honda CR-V and had ripped off the kick panel next to the blower motor on the right and didn't see any blue clips dangling like I've seen in another video of yours on setting the timing. I started to think the blue clip should be near where I plug in my ODB reader tool and noticed a blue clip there inserted into a blue holding slot and pulled it out of the like you did in this video. Mine was in the passenger side towards the center console. You're video tutorial confirmed I had the right blue clip! Thanks for this video!

[@KCWhoa]

Removing both negative and positive terminal and touch them together, it'll drain any left over current. DO NOT connect them while they are still connected to the battery. Touch them together separate from the battery.

[@martinlevi8612]

Erick thank you for this video, this new cars have modules computers and you learn how to fix it but we forget the old ones Thanks to your video I fix a 95 Honda accord today awesome

[@DinGroguDinDjarin]

Didnt know why my speedometer stopped working, tried this and got 17 which means bad Vehicle speed sensor. Changed my speed sensor and it works like a charm. Thanks you :D

[@brownpig1]

Thanks sooo much for this video!!! I just pulled my codes and i got a #1 & #43 on my '93 5spd Accord so i'm gonna get those O2 sensors checked! I think i had this a few years ago and if i recall the guy said there was more than 1 - i'm not sure. But whatever the case...hopefully it's not expensive. Thanks so much!

[@cherylcampos1117]

Thank you EricTheCarGuy!

[@funkiwikid6106]

For New Zealand there's a big difference. The plug for bridging is a 2 pin plug similar to the one shown BUT first of all it's on the left side (passenger side for RH drive) and it's grey, not blue ! You will find it tucked behind the small plastic kick panel that's on the left side of your left foot if you're a seated passenger. You should be able to put your finger over the top of that panel and flick the wires out without having to take the panel off. From this point on, do exactly as the man in the video says.

[@highoctane500]

Just done a UK 99 Honda CR-V with this method. The R/H/D UK cars blue plug is on the passenger side (left) footwell near the centre console. It has 2 plugs plugged into a blue plastic holder - one is the 2 pin plug and the other is a 3 pin plug. I used the 2 pin plug for SRS and ABS codes, and it worked fine (SRS codes wont cycle, it flashes each code once then stops. Turn ign off and on, it will start again) There is also an SRS reset plug in the fuse box (yellow square plug with 2 green wires)

[@togebeats5470]

I just learned how to do this the other day in my shop class. It's super awesome

[@drewb242]

I actually don't have a check engine light and decided to try this out for the hell of it. My check engine light stays solid on no blinking, however my SRS airbag light blinks repeatedly with no pattern. This is very useful by the way, thanks for the info.

[@ify.a7437]

Pls my Srs blinks too... Were you able to figure yours out..

[@OneIdeaTooMany]

from memory, its called the SCS connector. I have a Honda s2000 and the Australian versions don't come with obd2 but the US versions do. you can definitely use a paper clip but because it's thinner it's better to back probe the SCS connector.

[@jermainezey]

thanks eric i tried it today on my 95 honda accord lx v6 4door my abs light been on for bout 3 weeks now because every shop was trying to charge me any where from 65 to 80 bucks to read the code . i work on cars i just dont have a code reader . will i used what u say in the video i got my code it 48 which is rear left sensor . i will be going to the pull a part in the moring to get one

[@desmirage]

hi there - i have a 1994 honda accord wagon ex -- my check engine light recently came on -- watching your video and trying to determine if my connector will be on my non steering wheel side -- also wondering why the honda dealership charges well over $100 to do exactly what you're showing us all how to do. thank you so much for your help with this. p.s. no need to answer the honda dealership charge question. :)

[@carlosz771]

Thanks for this! I replaced my MAP sensor today using these exact instructions without having to buy an expensive scanner.

[@brayanmartinez2923]

What code was it giving you bro ?

[@1liltigerette]

I don't know how I ended up here, aside from maybe checking out a jeep for my daughter. But I want to say, you have an incredible voice...like radio voice. No kidding...Awesome, calm, soothing. lol...really. Anyhow, would like to tell you that its great you are taking the time to get this info out there to folks who may need it. Obviously quite a few from the numbers. So thanks. As a female, and after having my car stolen from a dirt bag a few years back, nice to see some good guy mechanics.

[@iamasmurf1122]

This was very helpfull , im in Australia working on a 1997 honda accord here the OBD2 port should have been behind the ashtray , however it wasnt so on right hand drives the blue connector is under the glovebox on the left hand side of the car , i bridged the connector read the codes , thankyou for your help

[@CmdrGendoIkari]

The '87 CRX Si has the computer under one of the seats under the carpet (image in my memory says passenger side), which is where to look for the flashing LED. Just thought I'd throw that out there since I'm here to see how to do this on my buddy's late 90s Civic. Thanks Eric.

[@capitanazoish]

I used your technique to get the codes I got 2278 I noticed its not listed on your page. I think its a bad O2 sensor. Is that correct? Thanks for all the great videos and info.

[@apoctheory9175]

If it stays solid I'm good right ?

[@pl4lsk8]

So where do i stick the metal clip in the thing? What number slots on the connector?

[@sararightnour7258]

paper clips work as well. as long as you know what port to plug them into. AND it is better to put them in the ports BEFORE you turn the car on...

[@nino418]

91-95 acura legends have the connector attached to the ecu cover. (the plug is also grey) you need to pull up the carpet slightly to access it. (its under the passenger side floor near the firewall)

[@superb.3703]

This was awesome 👌🏾.....I actually found out for a 2002 honda civic you can jumper slots 4 and 9 on the OBD port for flash codes as well....I had 37 for my ABS, went to your website 😀 and found it but im still not sure which sensor this is the code: 37 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-IN What does RL-IN mean?

[@frederickgarcia3901]

Hello and good day to you Erick. I tried to do the jumper thing to get the codes on my 1995 accord but nothing happened. The light did not blink. What do you think is the trouble on my car?

[@AngeredKabar]

Just used a paperclip to diagnose a check engine light on my 95 Geo Prizm. Guy I bought it from told me he's had it come on several times for some minor issue with an oxygen sensor and it cost him $100 to have it diagnosed and reset. I did the same thing in my driveway in 5 minutes for the cost of a paper clip. :D

[@presinald]

Thanks for the helpful video, picking up a 2001 tomorrow. Never had a Honda but used to do the same type of thing on an ex's S10 from the late 80s. This might be silly but might just tape up an old guitar string to try this if a paper clip ends up too big lol.

[@richarddebideen9870]

kool thanks Eric I have a Honda da7 and has this same old type method for retrieving the codes,would try this and see wat happens

[@Lsx865]

So never known to do on obd1. Just recently gotten another 1995 Honda Accord Ex Sedan (Favorite Year) Having issues with Vtec. Bench test vtec solenoid, test good. Took egr apart and cleaned, 2 valleys (passageways) completely blocked. Replaced the solenoid oil seal. Hopefully the scan will lead me to right direction....

[@miriamvivo4279]

1995 honda odyssey abs ob1 got a 28. Now will try srs lite that is on. Yellow connector drivers side. Muchas gracias eric.

[@moisesperdomo4852]

Keep up the great work man. Couldn't have down it without you. Bro.

[@keithm9927]

@rachel smith, it is likely a transmission shift sensor/solenoid. I had the same thing recently on my 94 accord ex and that fixed it.

[@KelvinThompsonJr]

Thanks! Very helpful. Here's a little tip I'd like to pass on: Instead of trying to read both codes plus my flashing D4 light on the fly; I recorded it with my camera phone then sat in my combatable chair and played back the video over and over to make sure I got all the codes right.

[@ify.a7437]

😂😂... I think that's what am going to do... Cos I have tried to count twice now and not too sure if I got it right.

[@gcnewd]

awesome! thanks.....I saved your website and will look at my truck see if they have this blue connector. Although not for my car, this was very instructive especially in regards to the fuse.

[@MrPaneel]

That's why my OBD2 scanner didn't respond, it is an OBD1 protocol. Thanks You Eric.

[@rodcurray9975]

Erick, this is really a huge help, thank you! I have a question about this, as you instructed to only switch to ON mode and not to crank.. How do I do this method if my Check Engine Light only turns on when my car is running already? Thanks!

[@rb26dett32]

Hey, what kind of diagnostic software would you recommend for a small shop or DIY? Besides the OBD2 port scanner. I'm talking more about scopes and/or dealership worthy tools. Lately I've seen quite a few "cheap" tools coming out but I haven't bought any yet because I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money on something that may end up being a paper weight. Also, most are only good for one make which doesn't help when I'm working on anything from Honda's to Porsche's. Thanks.

[@Al_Swilling]

Thanks for the video (10 years later). What do you do, though, if a car doesn't store any codes but has issues that should cause codes to be stored? I have a 1999 Honda Accord LX, with a 2.3 liter, F23A1, 4 cylinder engine, Automatic Transmission that sat with the battery removed all winter and through our Southeastern "rainy season" because I didn't have a garage or carport to get the car out of the weather to work on it. When I parked it, it was cranking and running just fine, but the head gasket had blown between the #2 cylinder and the water jacket between the #2 & #3 cylinders, causing it to overheat. I finally got good weather long enough to change the head gasket, intake & exhaust manifolds, valve cover gasket and seals, etc. After doing the repair and making sure that the cam and balance shaft timing were correct, that all the electric connectors and sensors were connected, and all the bolts torqued to specs, I installed the freshly charged battery and cranked the engine. When I cranked the engine, of course it was a longer crank time than normal, because after months of sitting idle with no battery, the fuel pressure had dropped, and it took a little extra to get fuel to the fuel rail and injectors. When the engine started, though, it barely ran at first (just fast enough to keep the crank and cam turning), then as the engine RPMs increased, it went from normal idle speed to surging, high-then-low for a few minutes before settling into a normal idle with good acceleration when I pressed the accelerator pedal. After the idle settled down, I turned off the engine, waited a few seconds, and started it again. This time, as soon as I turned the key, the engine started, but again it was a very slow, very rough idle that quickly increased to normal idle RPM, with less surging, but surging nonetheless. Every time I start the engine, it's the same ritual--super slow idle, increase to normal idle speed, and surging followed by a calm down to normal idle speed. During the entire process, not a single trouble code was stored or pending when I checked, hoping to find some useful info. So, for me it's trial and error to pinpoint the cause of the rough idle and fix it. Did the car sitting without a battery for 6 months damage the sensors or the car's computer or memory?

[@sahmadi1000]

Thank you Eric. I am glad you are there for us. Please don't be shy to tell us about some useful diagnostic tools. Thanks

[@ChristopherSmith-tf4nr]

Had same problem with brake lights. One bolt under pedal forget the name of it but switch will pull right out. Mine wasn't switch itself was just sticking. Replaced small o-ring and now works fine. Willing to bet that's your problem.

[@rong2166]

It's called flash codes.Been around for ever and not a big deal pulling codes. But nothing tells you actually what the failed parts is.Ex..If it's a P0420 which is a b1 catalyst (Aka catalytic converter) it doesn't necessarily mean you have a bad converter. I'd recommend using caution when pulling codes or you'll end up just replacing parts and still end up at the dealer.

[@turbonitroso7]

Good info! On acura legends, the connector is gray-colored.

[@EthanWood757]

How's it going Eric. I have a 93 del Sol si and all I see under the passenger side is a wide green 2 pin connector but no blue connector. Would this be it?

[@finalstandproductions2965]

On my 1996 Honda Accord, I ran into some problems trying to find a place that had a scanning tool to help me get the right code to get rid of my check engine light. So I just had to use the paper clip trick, and Google the codes online..

[@luisbetts9502]

Good video, hey eric, how you erase the srs codes for a 99 odyssey??

[@bobbofly]

Long pulses are basically the "tens column" in mathmatical terms, & short pulses would be the "ones", if I'm understanding you correctly? In other words, A long pulse followed by four shorts would be a "14"? Edit: Never mind I watched further into the vid, & yeah, that'd be it.

[@lloydmccown399]

Eric. My 1994 Honda Accord Wagon had a Master cylinder problem. I replaced the Master Cylinder and the speedometer started acting whacky and then quit along with the odometer. D4 keeps flashing. I saw your video and decided to check the codes. I got a 7 (TPS), 8 (TDC) and 14 (IAC or Bad ECM) and 17 (VSS) never came up. I let the codes cycle a few times to make sure I did not miss anything. Car runs fine just no speedo or odo Any direction you could point me toward?

[@madcook1936]

hey Eric what year model Honda or Acura did you get that female connecter from i myself use a paper clip but i would love to have a female connecter great vid

[@jbone2470]

While your in the fuse paneland your not sure which ABS fuse to pull why not just pull them all..Then u don't have to keep coming back and forth to pull a fuse.And it might even help clean any corrosion on the blades of fuse by pulling and reseating them..Great Tip eric..

[@Ayeobe]

Mr Eric, the original PGM-FI ECU in the oldies, like the 3rd gen accord, is underthe drivers seat. That is the case in my car in particular, which is the 3rd gen accord EX-i/LX-i. I do recall the legend being under the passenger seat, though. Cool thing is, if you have an old OBD0 Honda and need to pull a code, theres likely a forum for you to ask the questions you need asked on.

[@likkaweyy]

@ericthecarguy I have a 94 accord, I was driving last night to the gas station, I was on the freeway and suddenly my check engine light came on I got to the gas station turned off my car fueled and when I turned it back on the light was no longer on. My question is can I still be able to pull codes even though the light ain't on? Thank You, Video Was Very Helpful, and informative.

[@Droveit]

The scanner at the parts store read that a EGR valve was needed, although the engine did run right until I change out a Ignition coil, which of the codes would show that an EGR valve was needed. I did not see it on the list.

[@ricardosom7766]

Hi Erick the car guy. Hopefully you’ll read my message and answer my question after. Here’s my situation I have 1995 civic ex coupe. It has no engine light on, but I’ve been dealing idle surge problem going up and down so I wanted to see if the computer has any codes there. I did short for that terminal there and here’s what I got but can’t understand them. I get 3 fast ones first then 1 long one at the end. Is that 310, 31 or 13?? I don’t get it because it’s starts with the fast flashes first. Thank you for your help.

[@sentree9857]

I'd like to use this method to pull the abs code off of my 1997 honda del sol. However, the light does not come on initially when I start the car. It comes on after about 5-10 minutes of driving and then will stay on until I turn the car off, then it'll repeat the process. Would I be able to use this method if I park the car with the engine running while the light is on? Or will it read the code anyway?

[@carlloftin2850]

Sentree did you ever find the answer to your question? I have the same issue?

[@MinTrinidad]

On Point. Saved me from going to the dealers and paying $50 for a read out.

[@TheRealFrankWizza]

the connector to check the srs codes on that car is under the driverside dash. If you remove that bottom most panel, the connector is attached to it.

[@gdb5444]

I just use a paper clip to jump the connector, works every time.

[@GSXRedlined]

Nevermind I had a vtec ecu installed (p28) and I got a p06 ecu from a salvage yard. Worked like a charm and no more CEL! next up SRS replacement

[@dudleyworks]

I have a 92 Honda & it works.. Code 9. Pulled & cleaned my distributor & it cleared my code

[@graybermann]

Mate, thank you so much.. I have an old '99 Honda CR-V and I did what you said. Saved me hundreds of pounds... Lots of error codes all at once is not right! Turns out it was just "Low voltage" and no real problems. Re-set it and good as new... Thanks again. From England.

[@comradedad]

graybermann I’ve got a 2000 CRV and wondering about the location of the male connector. Mind telling where you found yours?

[@SpikesBikeShed]

Thanks, Eric! My 1995 Civic EX has been throwing a CEL intermittently. Going to check it today. Keep up the good work!

[@JasonTylerRicci]

I'm getting a p1337 code (crank position sensor I believe) in my 1997 Acura 2.5 tl. I'm gonna try this as well to confirm the code is correct as my cheap OBD scanner is showing. Thanks.

[@sieve5]

On my 97 GSR the cover holding that connector was green, but the plug is blue as described. Right side near the ecu.

[@Anthony_in_Bloomington_Indiana]

It's cool that you know how to do that, Eric. Some of the local auto parts stores here in Minneapolis and Saint Paul will do a code scan for free, but they also gave me and my friend Torleif a THREE PAGE printout of what the two trouble codes might mean! I figure they want people to buy one part after another, guessing what the trouble code means. On his 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan finding the trouble codes is easy. With the vehicle off, turn the key forward three times; trouble codes are displayed on the odoemeter and then it reads - Done. That is the only thing the Dodge engineers made easy with the Grand Caravan. It's been one problem after another with that thing. Whenever anyone asks me, "What's the most reliable brand of car?" I say, "Buy a Toyota."

[@georgerobartes2008]

Just to complicate things I have a RHD USA built 1999 3.0V6 Accord Coupe with Motorola PCM here in the UK . It has a 2 pin plug and a 3 pin plug in a blue blank support under the steering column . Jumping the 2 pin gives you ABS codes and I got a 32 (Front Right solenoid problem). The trouble is there appears to be several colour codes possible for the 3 pin plug for the SCS wire which you pull codes . One is an earth one is +5v and the other is anybody's guess depending on the colour which could be red , brown or grey depending on wherever you have sourced your info . As it is OBD2 a code reader and 3 pin adapter should work but it does not find the ECU after searching for the protocol Honda uses despite being listed in the code reader document .

[@UnapologeticIslam]

Thanks Eric... This will really help me on my newly acquired 92 Honda Civic EX.

[@tycreech7171]

i love all your videos and they have all help BUT this time i ran into a problem when i pulled the OBDI codes it gave me vtec codes and i have a no vtec motor

[@jorgeruiz4970]

Hey Eric. Could you help me with my 2001 Honda Odyssey. It shifting from first gear to second gear like sudently, what do you think? May be shifter fails. If you can please I appreciate it. Thanks

[@sharanchakradhar]

yes, you made the video eons ago !! is their any fuse that should be there to activate this plug??

[@Yesh77777]

thanks for the tip. I used a paper clip. got the code and changed out a misfiring ignition coil. car runs smoothly. easy fix!

[@jonnybottle]

Well played that man! This was exactly the problem I had. The ABS light was permanently on on my in-laws Civic EJ and it was due for its TÜV (MoT) test. Turned out to be left rear sensor. And you even show how to put the lamp out ;). TCS traction control system fuse is logical, because the front sensors also control the brakes to give the effect of a limited slip diff. I paid extra for that on a Passat I bought new in 1990. Worked well trying to get up slopes into car parks at ski-resort hotels ;).

[@abimariavargas7086]

I seen people use scanners on obd1 hooked up to the 3 pin connector to see live data but wonder if any cheap scanner will work

[@bunning63]

Had a 90 Vigor, RHD, so yeah the connector was on the left/passenger footwheel. Recall some years ago had the check light come on, put the paperclip across, read the code on the dash, off to the local selfhelp yard. Pulled the sensor, put it in all good for ten bucks! I was very pleased with myself at the time and the coin I saved, aaaah, simple times.

[@armandodemichele1420]

Thanks Eric, love your videos. Does this also give codes to TCS, and for transmission problems for my 2003 Honda Odyssey?

[@tonjawatford6673]

I have a 1997 Honda Accord Stationwagon EX 2.2L. The connector is mounted at the bottom of the glove box next to a red connector.

[@capitanazoish]

i have a 99 civic brake lights dont work also horn and hazard lights dont work.. do u have some advise on how to fix it? i dont think its a bad fuse or relay. maybe something else

[@Tunerdude94]

This was actually really helpful. Thank you Eric!

[@philip.aocallaghan4602]

Eric, appreciate the video and information.

[@uncreativename9936]

Also. Sixth gen Accords don't have that two pin connector. You have to jump two pins on the OBD-II port. The last one on one row and the fourth one on the other (black and brown wire.) The good news though, is that it will pull SRS codes also!

[@gastonglock7827]

tried this and the wire i tried to jump with turned bright orange and started smoking so i grabbed it and it branded my finger and thumb and melted through my floor mat into my carpet under. index finger and thumb both have a nike swish looking sign.

[@smartfeller1495]

Gaston Glock EricTheCarGuy assumes no responsibility for any propery damage or personal injury incurred as a result of information contained in this video.

[@michaelmittelsdorf]

Hahahaha!

[@spade0655]

Gaston Glock ...you had one job..ONE JOB!!!

[@laserray462]

Wrong connector dude - you shorted battery to ground

[@EPereda1995]

No you didn't

[@Jenny-xk6ir]

I just found out that our local AutoZone/Trak Auto no longer scans for free, but if you have obd2 connector, Pep Bros does it for free, and many service stations do. My local one, Sunoco, said they charged an hour of labor = $109 (robbers), but the Meineke another 15 min away said "come on down, no charge!". Just in case you don't want to do it yourself. Also, this video is for obd1, which is prior to 1997 or 8.

[@willujames4989]

My friends 2000 Integra GS got a 6 9; the CEL came on when he was rounding an exit ramp.

[@bpiper122]

I agree with just getting a Scan Tool from Amazon. I bought one that adapts to USB and it works great! Hooked it up to my laptop, loaded codes, and cleared codes from laptop. No fuses to pull!

[@williamburgess294]

Hey Eric... i have a ABS code but cant find the code that goes with it... but it flashes three times about 5 seconds apart and it a fast flash

[@jimecklein47]

Thanks Eric your videos have been very helpful while fixing up a 2003 CRV.

[@ExtraFungus]

I found a similar connector for my 96 Odyssey for the SRS and read it with instructions found online with the jumper. Now the only light on is the ABS, I don't think I can just reset it, it goes on and off parked, I can hear click when it comes on. I couldn't figure out the abs codes though, so I will have to revisit it.

[@Ahiles23]

Another great video. Easy to understand and helpful. Good job Eric!

[@davidprice2861]

Eric, that is very useful information to know, I've already bookmarked it, good useful info like this is very rare indeed, hi from Australia and thanks..

[@amandawhite7621]

My 2000 Honda Accord, was recently purchased by my self. my reverse is out completely. . Umoung starting the car , " while in park" as the car starts making a loud "NOT STEADY" NOISE. Grinding, really loud also as you pull the gear shifter down through, R,N,D, 1,2. moving the shifter one gear at a time , stopping in each gear. Reverse will also grind loudly. NOT A STEADY NOISE, but like grinding teeth. N IS FINE . SHIFT ON DOWN TO, "D." The car will in gage in gear pull and stop when it seems like it has gotten to warm .

[@tubeDude48]

Do you pull the ABS fuse with the key ON or OFF?

[@BRENDAJASON1]

Yea i had a couple of honda preludes 85 models had them on the pass side kick panel, used to jump the wire to adjust the distribtor.

[@JPMBC-io4ts]

This was an awesome find. First because now I can check codes, but secondly I thought I had a stray connector which I hate. I found it when I recently changed the heater blower with failed brushes. Thanks for all the awesome Vids. JPM5 British Columbia, Canada

[@toddfraisure1747]

Very cool info, thank you Code readers are so inexpensive nowadays. I got my Son one for a stocking stuffer for $47 from Amazon. Does the job and almost as much as mine that cost me $150. But my new neighbor has a professional one so I'm in fat city now. Still when you don't have one that is good info you put out there. I think I need to subscribe.

[@pnwjdm]

hello eric, do you know where on a harness i can find that female plug? thanks

[@chocolatetampon4492]

what if you have check engine light on but doesn't throw any codes

[@rusaakk]

In my case, without bridging the connector, engine light will only stays on for a second like normal?? But when I got the connector bridged using paper clip, the engine light stays on without any blink. What does that mean? Mine is Accord 93, got the blue connector under the dash passenger side. I believe its the right connector.

[@ThrottleJunction]

rusaaKKMODS same thing happens with my 96 civic. Did you manage to figure it out?