1998 Chrysler Town & Country Wheel Cylinder Replacement -Fixing it Forward

[@tombaker3794]

This whole scenario perfectly demonstrates the reasons why I gave up working on cars & started woodworking as a hobby.

[@bucksmkr12ga]

Don't lose your enthusiasm bro. We all know that they can beat you down, but I've always noticed that the more things I get fixed on a car, the prouder I feel. A sense of accomplishment. You did a good deed. Keep it up.

[@carbonatom6838]

Your tip on spinning off the cylinder from the brake line is one of the most useful tips I've ever got on drum brakes. I only found out about you a year ago, but your videos are my favorite thing on the net. Thanks buddy!

[@olipirard]

I saw the whole FixIt&Forwad videos and I learned a lot of things. THANK YOU TO BOTH OF YOU.

[@MrGomoma]

the 1 thing that caused my brake pedal to be low was the fact the brakes had to be bed-in, i changed all the rotor, new drums, new brake hardware. once the brake bed-in the pedal feel was way better, also i have that same van but in much better condition, didn't have as many problems as you did Eric. great vid as usual

[@waynefoutz]

I just did this job on my 2002 caravan yesterday. that parking brake plate just fit into the hole, there was nothing on there holding it in on either side. Replaced shoes and one leaking wheel cylinder. mine came off with none of the issues this one had. These vans are good vehicles for the most part. I've followed the progress on this van on this channel and I can't say I'd ever buy a 1998. That was the first year for these generation 4 minivans and they still had a lot of bugs in them. Eric changing the radiator for instance, I was shocked and amazed on what it took to get that thing out of there. On my 2002, same motor, mine just lifted right out of there from the top, I didn't even need to jack the car up. These vans got better, trust me.

[@Lou14th]

I don't think I've ever seen a cooler mechanic than ETCG. Another interesting, funny video.

[@jozzu7085]

Oh, those memories come crashing through, when I worked with the brakes on old cars. Do not miss it. At all.

[@DJDevon3]

After so many bleeding attempts I'm surprised you didn't do a full brake line inspection. No one likes to run new brake lines and flare them but when it comes to safety it's just something you gotta do.

[@jetjazz05]

***** I had to fix the parking brake on my 02 Saab... which led to having to get new rotors, new calipers, new parking brake shoes... which meant I needed all the springs since the old ones rusted. and new brake cable since the old one rusted out... and then I needed to replace the caliper because I couldn't bleed the old one and the line was rusted in, so I had to cut it and put new lines in. LOL... I know, very rambly. Basically I had to replace EVERY. PART. Of my braking system but the master cylinder.

[@DJDevon3]

Jesse Crandle Just the way it goes sometimes. :/

[@jetjazz05]

***** Yeah... now I'm faced with that issue on my wife's car's AC system. :( Much more expensive than brake parts heh.

[@biturboism]

For this exact reason I had to replace the whole rear braking system up until the master cylinder on my very first attempt at a wheel cylinder... everything was seized and stripped. Only the steel brake line was giving way. It was so scarring an experience that I would have given up on DIY car repairs had I been able to afford it. Now I'm glad I didn't :) Thanks for the video, Eric!

[@Greenflag101]

That Chrysler will be in and out of the shop all the time, fixing it forward forever... good job Eric.

[@atranger1944]

Great series hope to see another. On the crusty fittings try a medium wire brush , penetrant and the heat!

[@Dewln]

Just got my 1996 Chrysler Grand Voyager. Thanks for you (and Barbara) for these videos! Helping me a lot!

[@doseofboost4509]

the excitement in Brain's voice in the bleeding procedure :)

[@jtderby]

Barbara's van provided us a lot of entertainment. I say next time it's in the shop you setup a go fund me account for it and we crowd source the funds to replace it. I'm in for $20 and sure with your number of subscribers it won't take long to do.

[@psdaengr911]

Kind of refreshing to see that I'm not the only one who's had last minute trouble after doing a brake job. Wonder why Erik didnt try apply a penetrating oil to the steel spring wrapped brake line end sections. They are likely rusted to the backs of the end fittings.Even applying old brake fluid to them would likely have helped get them free. Used to apply a product called Threadeze, a spray oil/nickle antiseize, at every service oportunity, to prevent that kind of line from rusting. Zinc spray also works, but isnt long lasting unless as a paint.

[@johnkaplanian]

Dear Erik, I have seen a similar not so firm and grippy brake problem on a Honda after many bleeds and rear drum cylinder replacement. and since we do not have a Honda dealer equipment to connect and measure the output pressure of master cylinder and front caliper, we changed the master cylinder and front calipers where it rectifies the situation.

[@jmcenterprises9591]

Thanks Eric for this series. I did wheel cylinders years ago on my 74 toyota corolla. Bleeding the brakes was the hardest part if I remember right. BTW sorry I missed the meet up-one of these years.

[@jbdragonlance]

Who here misses Brain? He was funny as hell! I hope he comes back!

[@haydenc2742]

Awesome! Note on new brake pads, they are slightly tapered, until they seat there is less surface area too make friction, thus the, sluggish slow down for first 10~ or so stops The whole point behind the bottle is a "one man" brake bleed, bottom of line stuck down in bottle thru cap should be below surface of brake fluid in the bottom 1/3~ of bottle , as lone guy slowly pumps the brake pedal 4-5 times, oil and air pump into the bottle, the air floats up, when brake released it sucks back in only fluid, no need to have to open/close the bleeder valve. Hopefully she appreciates all the work you did...you looked ready to take a hammer to it No good deed goes unpunished...heh Keep the vids coming!

[@kostelectronics]

i had many rusted brake-line connector that won't turn. but here's my tip: Use your penetrating-oil and let it work for 1 hour or more. then remove the wheel-cyliner like you did and after that, hit the rusted connector with a nut back on the line, then try to Twist it. It nearly ever worked for me! BR Matthias from switzerland. BTW: I like to watch your Videos!!

[@Clearanceman2]

Wow, you have a sweet camera. So much better than the old days. Better than most You Tube videos too.

[@davidplaster4576]

For rusted brake lines like that, take a propane torch, heat up the brake line nut, and attempt to remove. The heat stretches the nut, and leaking hot brake fluid cleans up the inside of the brake line nut. Worked for me on my '99 T&C rear cylinders!!

[@habatroll4831]

Good job Eric. I feel your pain. For as rudimental as brakes can be sometimes they can be a pain. Its cool you are doing this for Barbara and others. Keep up the good work.

[@BruceFarmer]

the satisfaction of getting it fixed

[@toppledgod]

It's so nice to see older cars getting the attention they need and this car probably had more spent on it than it was worth. Scrapping an old but good car is such a waste. My car is just as old as this Chrysler and it is so dependable, I too would throw time and money at it to keep it on the road.

[@buggsyspam]

Hopefully there is more fixing it forward. I like the sentiment.

[@michaelglynn2638]

Informative, educational and very entertaining. I enjoyed every second of that, thanks.

[@michiganborn8303]

The one thing that would concern me is that nut/bolt setup you had for the parking brake. If the left setup fell off, what's going to happen with the right side since I didn't see you remove it? I'm guessing it's going to fall off just like the left side did and get mangled in some moving parts.

[@zx8401ztv]

Eric, I know this sounds wrong but, im glad it was a swine to fix lol. Ive had too many days like this.

[@360fanboy360]

zx8401ztv lol every day is like this

[@zx8401ztv]

GLC522 Oh hell, i would run away screaming and hope it was a dream lol :-)

[@360fanboy360]

there's alot of junks out there my man lol

[@AttilaTheHun333333]

I don't want to be some kind of smart-ass :) ...on the last FiF episode I had a feeling that it would be better to use a drop of loctite on those screw at the rear breaks. Maybe it would have helped, maybe it wouldn't...I don't know. Anyway... Great Job Eric and as always I envy your calmness!

[@todddembsky8321]

Eric -- I love both of your channels. Thank you -- keep up the great videos. Your instruction style is one that is perfectly suited to us Shade Tree mechanics who think that just because we can tighten a channel lock pliers, we can install a Turbo !!! :-)

[@wtbm123]

I usually heat the fitting a little on the brake line , they will usually spin again if warmed up. I was taught , not to repeatedly, pump pedal , but to push it down once and bleed . Much less chance of sudsing fluid , As you are just moving fluid and do not need to build a pedal while bleeding ,. Sometimes a rubber line can make brakes feel spongy Wonders if the next fix it forward will be a Dodge again . lol

[@klc317]

That van is like a stray cat you feed once and it just never goes away...lol

[@royfrench8847]

Hey Eric, Here is a quick out for when you have a stuck wheel cylinder mounting bolt. Strike the wheel cylinder side of the casting with the ball of your ball peen hammer.(near where the bolt goes in) It is thin there, and many times the casting will break. When that 180 degree off thing happens I try the other new wheel cylinder. (if I am replacing both) most times a different one will end up in a better position.

[@UberAlphaSirus]

True dat

[@ggsmith48906]

Thanks so much Eric! Now when I'm swearing at my 94 Caravan as I struggle with repairs I know it's the vehicle and not something I'm doing wrong!

[@UNLEASHdaBEAST1]

I knew that nut and bolt would back off. lol

[@18iser]

+UNLEASHdaBEAST1 He didn't learn from the comments on the previous video. You abviously don't need the nut and bolt!

[@Rotttman]

18iser abbviously!

[@ScubaCat3]

***** I was thinking the same thing since it pivots on them constantly. That peg is supposed to hold it in place on it's own. If not, I'd just replace that little e-brake arm with a junkyard part. I've never seen that failure before but maybe it got stuck to the previous shoe and was bent somehow.

[@93257jj]

ScubaCat3 i knew they would also,, i was sitting here thinking this guy is really dumb,, its basic 101.. there was nothing to stop it from shakeing off.. i mean really?... no one can clam to be a mechanic and not have comment sense.

[@Rotttman]

Come on! Eric is far from "dumb". I think he was just trying to come up with an inexpensive, quick fix for this lady. It's a parking brake on an automatic.... who uses it anyways

[@coda2k705]

This video gives me hope for my swagger wagon.

[@38911bytefree]

What a pain this van ... should be burning it foward ... when Barbara arrives, you are so sorry, "well, it just catch fire" ... FIXED. Nice video and awsome camera work.

[@axenz1]

Hi Eric, the mod you did the the brake shoes , you need to put thread locker /Loctite :)

[@ludeh22a9]

Eric you are awesome I have seen all your videos and love watching them they have helped me so much I have a 1994 honda prelude 2.2 vtec my lil hot rod I have done a engine swap on it 2 times and much more all the work done myself but some things would have not been done to the car if not for your videos keep up the good work and stay dirty!!!

[@levymillenium86]

You're a stand up guy Eric

[@Retroweld]

Very informative Eric. Nice job. Douglas

[@airwolf12999]

Nice Job Eric, Only issue i see is that unneeded bolt, But otherwise nice job, Them vans are rather easy to work on, I should know i had 3 now down to 2 + the one i bought for my mother, The hardest thing i had to do was the water pump and timing belt on the 2.4L DOHC model Timing marks do not line up on those btw lol. other than that they make these real easy to work on and the only thing that makes some of it hard is rust so no rust no issue. also a little tip if you gotta work on the back of the engine towards the fire wall take the extra 5 mins and remove the windshield cowling it makes life so much easier doing Tune-ups etc.

[@imalovrman1116]

Hey, My name is Andrew and I'm 18 years old. I just got my first car and have came to the conclusion that I'm going to do all the maintenance I can on it myself. Now, I plan on going out and spending a solid amount of money on some good tools (American made lifetime guarantee stuff). Would you recommend me buying first impact sockets (I hear their more tuff) or should I just go out and buy regular and impact? I do not plan on buying air tools as hopefully I will never need them. Do you have any suggestions you can give to me as a new driver and a diy car guy? Thanks for any and all info you can give!

[@anthonyjcarolan3161]

Top tip of you done with that brakes drums using photographs on your phone is good to find out

[@BigGuyReview]

I think it might be time Eric for a crowd funding for Barbara's van. You should add up approx. the value of all the repairs and do a evaluation. Was it worth it? Thanks for the great video as always.. -John

[@TIKIMAN198]

I remember after the Honda dealer bled my brakes they felt a lot softer and thought there was air in the line. After a few days they felt like new again. I think they just need a few stomping's to feel normal again after new fluid is in the system.

[@SierraYankee7]

I could imagine a spectator watching you in the parking lot wondering wtf are you doing going back and forth.

[@kendallarian3887]

I guess I am kind of off topic but do anyone know of a good place to watch new tv shows online ?

[@zevlegend4267]

@Kendall Arian Lately I have been using Flixzone. Just google for it =)

[@Mebob2001]

i can tell you enjoy making brake lines as much as myself:)

[@IamTheGoatstroker]

Nice Kentucky windage on the wheel cylinder threading.

[@hardcorejuggalo100]

thanks for making this video, i was having issues on my dodge dakota after i replaced two brake lines and two wheel cylinders i couldnt seem to get the sponginess out of my brakes i did how you did it on here and i stop now lol

[@dvddmc]

I continue to see why I hate Chrysler dodge products so much. Thanks for the video Eric. Am sure one of these days your going to have your going to have a unedited uncensored blooper reel.

[@GilZu]

Thank you Barbara for the videos (: Btw Van got nice seats .

[@kabouterplop19]

Let's just hope this van will hold up.. Those wheel arches look like they've seen better days :p

[@TorqueEffect]

kabouterplop19 That is nothing, that van is still in really good shape except for a some rust bubbles. I have seen these things with the rockers panels completely rusted away, and quite regularly I might add.

[@TorqueEffect]

I like how right when Eric said "Hold it" when he was bleeding the brakes, my entire laptop locked up, I almost thought it was part of the video, until I realized it was indeed the laptop, and not just a bit of goofy editing. lol

[@spunkybrewster71]

EricTheCarGuy you are finally looking like a real mechanic.. few years back I watched your videos and thought 'who's this youtube prettyboy he dont know crap'..with the extra pounds and grey beard you would fit in at any garage now.

[@johngranlund4195]

Brian is a cool cat.

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

I have often seen spongy/springy brakes after a brake job as Eric did. I think it is due to the pads and shoes bedding in more than air in the system. Also the automatic adjusters need to fully adjust after the car is driven and the shoes have properly seated. This can be very annoying if you need the brakes for a safety inspection.

[@jetjazz05]

Ahh yes. Choice words. The *best* kind of words to say when performing a repair on a Chrysler.

[@briscoblank1477]

Great work Eric!

[@joeacfalle2380]

Gotta give Brian some accolades...but Brian next time, pump up the jam rather than brakes.... Oh, and yes you too Eric, great insight on handling stubborn metals.

[@irarcher]

Hi Eric, I'm a huge fan and premium member, and have watched most of your videos, thanks for the education! After watching this video, I had a few thoughts: 1). Have you ever considered getting a pressure bleeder, seems like it would be a lot easier to bleed brakes with one of these devices.. 2). I'm guessing this van has ABS, I wonder if that was part of the problem with getting a good pedal, maybe also was crappy brake lines? 3). I noticed you had problems with the bleeders on the new rear cylinders. Would it help to put something like pipe sealant on them, I here sometimes the bleeders can be leaky..? 4). When you run vehicles in the shop, are you ever concerned about CO poisoning? Thanks for the videos, stay safe! P.S. What's everyones favorite method/tools for bleeding brakes? I haven't done it yet, but from watching videos it seems like it is very tricky to get all of the air out, and several different processes for doing it.

[@jdmeaux]

Road salts do beautiful things to mechanical parts, huh? Looks like Brian is going UP in this episode.

[@MotoGoneMini]

The words i never like to hear a mechanic say, "Please don't break, please don't break" :)

[@timothydail4593]

Nice job man you did it again

[@peterbiltxr379]

what brand penetrating oil do you use eric it seems to work real good and i want to get some

[@trainsbangsandautomobiles824]

I gotta say, do you think it was a issue with not getting all the air out from the front left caliper as you had to bleed via the brake line? For a sec there, I was also thinking master cly.

[@estechguy01]

1:10 The best part of my day!

[@idoaricha1]

Eric, why you not buying a pressure bleeder?! it is way easy that way and it's not expensive at all these days. some say the method of pumping the pedal not good for the MC because it's forces the seals inside to move to places they not usually go and wear them out..

[@johnwrench4speed]

On the frozen brake line fitting to wheel cylinder issue (passenger side), why didn't you, since you had two new wheel cylinders, see if you had the same issue with indexing the other wheel cylinder (I never assume that the parts are identical)? Finally, I understand this is a "fixing it forward" project and you are on a tight budget, but did you consider a brake hardware kit which would include the missing pieces?

[@TheIhcan]

Is this a new camera? The video quality looks great.

[@BADFISHHHHHH]

Do we get to see a video of her getting the van back???

[@gregagnew9777]

Great job Eric, but you should have followed a bed in procedure for the brakes before anything else.

[@1990themule]

I know you mentioned not to mention the rubber gloves but what about a seat cover?

[@joshy052]

We had a 2005 Town & Country and our brakes never locked up on it. The brakes never really worked well since we got it and we basically bought it new; only had 15k on it when we got it. Too many close calls and hit animals because of the lackadaisical efforts from that thing. Glad it's gone =)

[@Cragified]

You need to adjust the parking brake lever cable. I know it seems weird but on Chrysler vehicles of this era it really affects the pedal feel. If the cable has too much slop not only does the parking brake not work well but the pedal feel is horrible. I've replaced the entire brake system on on a Neon hunting the mushy pedal until I was informed of this.

[@Michael-fw5ef]

Eric what is your opinion of Dodge Caravans? Are they reliable vans?

[@rhkips]

Hahaha, poor Brian... Thanks for putting up with all that, Brian! Made for a great video! :D

[@mds2465]

also as far as getting in and out of the vehicle while it's on the lift. you might consider going through the rear sliding doors. more space to move around.

[@seasonedtoker]

I would squirt some penetrating oil on that brake line fitting and heat it. You can use a heatgun or a pen torch, even a soldering gun, just wait for the penetrating fluid to start boiling, then take away the flame. It will eventually break free. I learned this working on guitar hardware that is cast zinc and chrome plated, so excessive heat can ruin the appearance.

[@Clearanceman2]

Rust on the wheelwell too. Probably the least of the problems. Eric vs. a Chrysler van! Like Austin Powers vs. Dr. Evil.

[@bumpyfruck]

the bleeders are higher than the brake line fittings ,so if you are bleeding at the brake lines there will still be an air pocket ,also after it sits awhile the pedal will be low again as the air left in the caliper will decompress ///been there done that lol

[@koetjeboe91ph]

Hi Eric, After watching your problems about the bad braking I think I know the problem that was there. Because the van has ABS there are valves that can have a bit of junk that can keep them a bit open. and you can get a strange pedal (had a similar problem a few years back). Fixing it was really easy us brake very hard so the abs-module has to kick in and get flushed with fresh fluid. after that the car braked almost like new. but before i know that is also did a bleeding of all corners multiple times with no real effect. Hope you wont see the Chrysler van soon. I got the feeling you hate that van now. Greetings koetjeboe91ph PS love the show

[@MeowJW]

Barbara is one lucky girl..

[@joehyundaitech7961]

eric hi I drop so many lug nuts now at my age I dont bend over to pick them up anymore. I use a long magnet and use that as my extension

[@T.A.K14]

"pump it up .. hold it .. down pump it up .. hold it .. down pump it up .. hold it .. down pump it up .. hold it .. down" -Eric 2015

[@orbnaes]

Is there a fancy machine that bleeds brakes or is what you do in the video the only way?

[@colj001]

best car in the world

[@aussiebasshead6566]

did you pull the other nut bolt off in case that comes lose two

[@GalaxyStranger01]

Now - did the break cylinders just need to be broken in? Or does this always act like this when you change out the brake fluid? I'm not sure I understand how it still wasn't quite working as expected and then it magically fixed itself in the parking lot.

[@ggsmith48906]

GalaxyStranger01 Oddly enough I've had that exact scenario with my 94 Caravan - spongy brake pedal after repairs and bleeding that firmed up after driving a bit. No explanation.

[@xxtom6x9x]

Ending was awesome!!! Lol

[@digitalrailroader]

I suspect that there is air in the ABS HCU (Hydraulic Control Unit) and the ONLY way to bleed that is with a Scan Tool.

[@WeeKelpie]

digitalrailroader Air inside the HCU doesn't affect the pedal feel during normal driving/braking. The fluid (and any trapped air) inside the HCU is isolated from the rest of the brake system until the ABS actually kicks on. It could be in there for years and you'd never know... and then you have to do an ABS stop, and suddenly you find out.

[@erics9213]

Eric, I just knew that nut & bolt jury rig setup was going to fail. A locknut is a better idea but the locknut itself is not hi temp. A c-clip/pin setup is better if you can find the right size. Good try though. Eric S.

[@bringbacknames]

It doesn't need anything like that. The parking brake strut holds those parts together. I'm glad to see him remove those, as this is a safety issue.

[@mastergx1]

I think part of the problem with these brakes is the fact that the rear brake hoses connect a long way from the cylinder. There is a lot of rubber line between these points on the rear and the more rubber line you have, the more spongy the brakes going to feel - its a design flaw of this car in my opinion. The only way of fixing this (easily) would be to install steel braided brake lines, especially on the rear.

[@aserta]

I admit, my brake bleeding game is not the best, but, isn't hearing that squick an indication of air in the lines? I'm saying/asking because that's one of the ways i know for sure i've bled my brakes 100% or there about. I've noticed this on my motorbike as well. Also, i was under the impression that you're supposed to run the brakes (disc at least) for a bit with repeated hard braking for at least 10 times until the pads bite in properly. Just my two cents.

[@MrSaturdayNightSpecial]

Hello Eric, Could you do a video on proper wheel alignment, steering and such? I, in the past and unfortunately currently have a car where the alignment is way off and the steering wheel is turned left, or right when going straight. In the recent case due to a accident that happened at a low speed. I inspected my car and steering, no broken or bent parts, just the passenger side steering control arm is off a bit on the threads. Before when I have gone to an alignment shop with other cars they always seem to say something like this. "We can't do the alignment because you need (put super expensive parts and labor here)." I am going to be taking my current vehicle to an alignment shop soon to fix the issue I have currently. I know the steering and alignment just need an adjustment once the steering wheel is turned straight (When I let go of the wheel the car wants to go left). So if you could do a video on alignment, steering and under what conditions would an alignment not be possible that would be great. Thanks!

[@Sandbag1300]

Best at 1:04, "One day I think I am going to be a real mechanic".

[@richw1907]

Wow, you must love this woman, just saying.

[@asandberg6]

The lower strut should hold the shoe and parking brake lever together enough to keep the lever from coming out.