Honda Pilot Complete Rear Suspension Rebuild (Part 2)

This is the conclusion to the rear suspension rebuild on a first generation Honda Pilot. It includes all control arms, dampers (shocks), rebooting the rear axles, replacing the stabilizer links and bushings, the right side parking brake cable, the rear brakes, the differential seals, and much more.
Honda Pilot Complete Rear Suspension Rebuild (Part 1): • Honda Pilot Complete R...
Honda Pilot Complete Rear Suspension Rebuild (Full Version): www.ericthecar...
Be sure to check the links below for other videos about this Pilot project #ETCGHackHawk
Thanks for watching!
#ETCGVideo #ETCGHackHawk
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The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
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Tools
Hood Prop (Brake Pedal Holder): www.jbtools.co...
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator: www.eastwood.c...
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating: www.eastwood.c...
Eastwood Chassis Black Paint: www.eastwood.c...
Fluid Extractor: www.jbtools.co...
Seal Removal Tool: www.jbtools.co...
Impact Driver: www.jbtools.co...
Drum Brake Tools: www.jbtools.co...
Plastic Vice Guards: amzn.to/3DpJVuJ
LOCTITE Sticks: www.amazon.com...
Parts
R Parking Brake Cable: 47520-S3V-A11
Differential Seals: 91206-PGJ-013
Stabilizer Bar Bushings: 52306-S3V-A00
Stabilizer Links: 52325-S3V-023
CV Boot Outer: 42018-S9V-A50
CV Boot Inner: 42017-S9V-010
Front Differential Bolt: 90161-S3V-A01
R Control Arm: 52371-S3V-A00
L Control Arm: 52372-S3V-A00
Dog bone Control Arms: 52345-S0X-A01
Adjustable Upper Control Arms: www.1aauto.com...
Cam Bolt Kit: 06520-S0X-C00
Upper Spring Seat: 52686-S3V-023
Dampers (Shocks): 52610-S9V-A02
R Lower Control Arm: 52350-S9V-A00
L Lower Control Arm: 52372-S3V-A00
Subframe Bolts: 90160-S0X-A00
Related Videos
How To Repair Structural Rust Damage: • How To Repair Structur...
Bodywork Without Welding: • Bodywork Without Welding
Honda Pilot Rear Bumper Replacement: Video link posted when available
2003 Honda Pilot Inspection This Thing Needs Help: • 2003 Honda Pilot Inspe...
MOOG Sucks: • MOOG Sucks
Parking Brake Shoe Replacement: • Parking Brake Shoe Rep...
CV Boot Replacement: • How To Replace CV Boot...
How To Remove Rusted or Damaged Fasteners: • How To Remove Rusted o...
#ETCGHackHawk Playlist: • 2003 Honda Pilot Inspe...
Type R Playlist: • EricTheCarGuy Gets an ...
Dads Truck Series: • #ETCGDadsTruck Build I...
The Fairmont Project: • ETCG Gets a New Car! -...
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Stay Dirty
ETCG
0:00 Introduction
46:03 Torque Specs
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.

[@whoyoulookingatabs1028]

I already appreciate people who Fix stuff and show you how its done properly, but I have a next level of appreciation for those who show the part numbers in said videos.

[@strawhousefred2192]

I agree. And based on past experience, using Honda parts is the best way to avoid future time and aggravation.

[@CrazyPetez]

I’m a parking brake guy too. I learned to drive in hilly San Francisco. If a car runs away down a hill, it happens, and the parking brake wasn’t set, you’re in big trouble. Nice job on the rear suspension job.

[@mds2465]

Agreed, I decided to go ahead and replace the shoes on my brother's 06 when I overhauled the suspension as I discovered that the parking brake wasn't holding on a hill when I tested it with the car in neutral. There's a good chance that I could've adjusted the shoes and then the parking brake probably would work just fine, but I figured that since the car had well over 200k and was over 10 years old, who knows how much life those shoes had left. Plus at the time my brother was getting ready to move to Virginia, where they do in fact have State safety inspections, and a faulty parking brake is a failure point for that. So I wanted to make sure that it was something that was going to last and not present any problems in the future.

[@nknasi]

the way you explained and demonstrated the elliptical bolt's motion and effect at 21:21 just demystified wheel alignment for me. i've had an idea of how it works but that little clip made it all make sense for me, so thanks for that.

[@ericthecarguy]

I'm glad you found that useful. It's my goal to help people understand things. It's always great to hear when I've actually accomplished that. Thanks for your comment.

[@hojo70]

This is the most work I've ever seen anyone perform on a $500 car

[@jimmydean8007]

The amount of camera work you do to get us these videos through the years is amazing and underappreciated.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you!

[@maingun07]

Congrats on finishing up the rear end. As you've said before, most folks would have condemned her as being to costly to repair, but sometimes there are other considerations than dollars and cents. Hellava lot of work. Well done!

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you!

[@gerrytseng]

@@tammylott921 thx for being such a positive contributor, how about posting videos of your own rebuilding a vehicle you prefer...?

[@gerrytseng]

@@fcex558 weird, there was one who defamed Eric with some random insult but it appears to have been removed

[@hamood1234fool]

@@ericthecarguy Why you didn't clean the rust at 35:00?

[@seashburn]

Imagine caring enough that you put in all the money time and effort to restore a Honda pilot. Well done Eric!

[@bethzarin6439]

Because working on car is so satisfying, specially when it's installed clean, no rust, sprayed with WD-40 all over underneath and everything is greased and oiled.. I'm not even a mechanic, I'm an Architect but I love fixing and cleaning my cars on my own.

[@sleepyhollow783]

This series is fresh air in a putrid disposable society! Thank you, Eric!

[@scallywag1716]

All of us, and everything is disposable. That’s just life….

[@rickg1704]

Hello. Once again, I enjoyed watching your video. You are a terrific mechanic, diagnostician and teacher. What impresses me the most is your honesty and integrity towards your clients. You treat them as if they were family. As a police officer, I always try to meet those expectations from our "clients" as well. Honesty and professionalism!! Well done. Congrats.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you for what you do, and for your comment. Both are appreciated.

[@mikehartmann5187]

Now you’ve entered my world as a rustmeister, as I have been chasing rust around my ‘01 Jeep TJ for 5+ years. I haven’t used Rust Encapsulator Plus, but I have used the non-plus encapsulator in combination with Eastwood Rust Converter. I was disappointed by the performance of those products, and to keep it relatively short, what I found is that you must cover the encapsulator with a top coat paint. Must. My memory is that the instructions on the encapsulator said top coating was optional - oh no it’s not! Even in places under the car where you think there is no exposure to UV light - top coat it. It’s more work & time yes, but I think it will help keep the rust monster from quickly returning. For my latest round of rust hunting I decided to try POR-15 instead, since I am just completing this on the frame and underbody I can’t say yet whether POR-15 + POR Chassis Top Coat is better, worse or the same as Eastwood. Time will tell. I also tried the new Eastwood Platinum rust product on the front half of my frame, so I’ve got a long term experiment going on which Product is better. I will say with POR-15, it’s clear that good thorough proper prep is King, so it’s a LOT of work. Lastly, for small and midsize parts like your rusted floor tray, I derust those parts using the electrolysis method. Electrolysis leaves no mystery that every spec of rust has been removed. It too is time consuming to let the electrolysis do it’s thing, but I am a fan of that method if you want to be sure Mr Rust is deader than a rusty door nail. Every year I go on a rust hunt and inspect the car for new or recurring rust. I wish I had a lift for that! Thanks!

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you for that info.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Very informative @Mike Hartmann

[@bethzarin6439]

When I bought a brand new or used car, I just do a full detailed underwash and spray with WD-40 White Lithium Grease all over connections, joints, bolts, electrical wiring sockets, etc. I'm surprised the chemical stays there like forever, it prevented water, rust and it doesnt fllused away with water and mud. I just have to do a full detailed underwash and lithium spray twice a year. Car looks brand new without signs of rust when the old lithium coat is removed for a fresh new spray. The lithium grease looks like a aerosol white paint because it stays there and doesnt run even after a few months. But nobody goes under to check how your car looks like.

[@mikehartmann5187]

@@bethzarin6439 to try and shorten up my long note here, I omitted my intention to spray Fluid Film over the POR-15 work I’ve just completed. POR15 takes 4 days to fully cure, so I’ve wrapped up that work and will wait the 4 days and then apply the Fluid Film.

[@aserta]

32:16 one thing i've started doing lately is to sleeve the connectors, fill the sleeve with dielectric grease on both ends, and then tie the ends over the connection with copper wire wraps. It's an old boatie trick a friend taught me to do, and it really does the trick for connectors under the car.

[@joubess]

Great work Eric!!! And a lot of it. I find there are a lot of people who look at the cost of repairs and then the value of the vehicle, and say you're putting more money into it than it's worth. You should replace it. But on the other side is you own that vehicle that can be rebuilt for the cost of a down payment on a new or newer vehicle minus the car payments. I'm doing it myself after watching tons of videos by you and a few other guys who work on Hondas. I greatly appreciate your attention to detail. Some just bolt it back together not concerned about breaking new bushings or wearing parts out before their time because they didn't wait to tighten bolts after they were on a full weight load. I quit watching those dudes. My mechanic told me it was time to replace it, but I'm replacing all the suspension on my 97 CR-V and all I can say is 1) it's a simpler system and 2) thank goodness I don't live in the rust belt. I have no rust on the underside; just a little corrosion on some of the bolts (???) that came out of the subframe in front. Water must have gotten into the bolt holes while I was fording street flood water during heavy rains. I coated them all with blue thread locker after brushing the corrosion off, cleaning them with oil and wiping the heck out of them to get the oil off using very little solvent just on the threads. I'm not too pleased with my mechanic who never changed the rear differential fluid or the transmission fluid even though they were due at least when the timing belt was changed. My manual says at 60,000 miles for the transmission. I also replaced the steering rack and that was just hell on that vehicle. I did it right after someone stole my catalytic converter, saving me from dropping the exhaust, but I still had to drain the trans and drop the AWD transfer case, and found out I will need a new shifter cable. (The transmission fluid was worse than very old sludgy oil). Something kept hitting me in the head while I was under the truck and it wasn't wet. When I put the transfer case back I saw the cable has a huge hole in it and it's failing strand-by-strand. The cover ripped and the cable is brittle from age and slowly breaking.

[@coleregan7115]

Nice catch on the CV axle cup falling out. Stinks to pull it apart again, but at least it only cost some time and a boot clamp. Refreshing to see a rebuild like this. Many would have taken it to the scrap yard. This video is practically inspiring me to go find a 1st gen AWD, rebuild the front and rear suspensions (maybe add a small lift) and make it an off-road vehicle. Love when I see these done up like that.

[@LMacNeill]

Such a satisfying repair -- watching all the rusty junk be replaced with new (or refurbished, freshly-pained) parts. Reminds me of when I rebuilt the suspension on my '68 Galaxie 500 convertible. It all looked so great when it was done.

[@davidcayll]

Really enjoyed seeing Eric save the Pilot. But cannot find any footage on the weld repair of the subframe mount points. Really appreciate Eric’s work.

[@Avrelivs_Gold]

This kind of videos is why I love ETCG I could watch all day!

[@mpaulk2023]

I just can't get over the fact that this video series was posted TWO YEARS AGO. Like, where?!?!?? I hope you get a shop again soon my friend. No one deserves it more than you do. Maybe soon something good will happen and you CAN get that dream shop you deserve. Take care, and of course, as always....stay dirty.

[@cetGT3]

Eric sure is a top notch mechanic 👨🏼‍🔧

[@SaberusTerras]

Eric's experience shows when his guesses on torque specs are all in range.

[@bethzarin6439]

Here in the Philippine countryside we don't even know what is torque is, I've never seen and used an actual torque wrench even now. I just see it on youtube. We just hand feel everything and the cars lifespan is just the same with any car maintained by the dealership or some fancy motor shop. What we do is we don't buy Ford because it's too high tech system and buggy computers, BCM and other stuff often fails and you cannot fix it when your in the mountains. You can't even replace a fucking light bulb without taking it to the fancy motorshop.

[@Rhaspun]

I remember one time he didn't follow the torque spec it came back to haunt him. He had did some work on a Mini Cooper and ended up having to repeat the job. I believe it was a part that was bolted to the crank.

[@SaberusTerras]

@@Rhaspun Yeah, that's German engineering for you, near zero tolerance and out of spec everything goes kaput.

[@scottflurer8987]

The fact that you replaced everything with new parts is something I strongly believe in. My 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited (1 year only) gets everything that I can find new gets replaced. 23 year old parts need replacing before they let you on the side of the road. GREAT JOB!

[@InternetDude]

I would suggest you Fluid Film the undercarriage once you're totally done. That and the rust encapsulator will be permanent. I did that to my rust 03 F150 and those two things halted rust.

[@dadtype2339]

Hats off to ya E.C. !!! You're correct, what a journey, and to have filmed it added stop and go time. Thank you for what you do Sir!

[@SoobDoob18]

Eric is the bob Ross of the mechanic world

[@OORAH659]

/we just got a Honda 2005 and all you are doing is helping us. We The Few appreciate learning from you...OORAH!!

[@ST-qe6pp]

So satisfying when you know how to put all the whatnots back together! For a lay man that looks like 10k jigsaw puzzle 😂

[@douglaslourey9716]

Thank you! Great tutorial! I rebuilt the front suspension on my 2004 Honda Pilot and everything went smooth. It's much easier than the rear suspension. I had one issue about a year after the rebuild. The center nut on the strut came loose and caused a noise that my local mechanic described as sounding like "jingle bells." I used new, after-market, front strut and spring assemblies, and should have re-torqued everything the factory assembled. The fix was simple enough: remove the wiper arms and remove the cowling to access the nut. Tighten and add some loctite. However, trouble-shooting this issue was difficult for me, (a former professional mechanic, but now a street mechanic), working on the ground using jackstands. I couldn't figure it out, so I had my local auto repair shop take a look. Troy, of Troy's Auto, found and fixed the problem.

[@thelonelywolf88]

I am a PA safety and emissions inspector and he's right about parking brakes not working. That's just the start on what the state wants us to check

[@stangalucian331]

Restoring a car that isn't worth restoring. That's what we love about Eric!

[@ericthecarguy]

That's actually kinda the point of this series. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6K3mKloh7h2bas

[@JeffWinter1]

Completely fascinating and I don't even own a Honda. They're all basically similar, at least my Kia is. So thanks for all the info, well worth the watch.👍 Thank you.

[@ChrisFaulk]

Bad ass mechanic right here! Excellent video to show me mortals how it's done! Impressive stuff

[@rickpalechuk4411]

Looking really good Eric. Good catch on the cv joint.

[@riceburner4747]

GREAT JOB ERIC!!! Such emphasis on detailing as usual. I'm IN PA, so ANOTHER rust belt state. Ppl will probably cringe, but I anti seize ALL my suspension parts, except rubber & silicone those. I've never had anything come loose. Love how u encapsulated parts/painted. I have OCD, I'd prob fluid film when I was done. I get excited on fixn vehicles like u did. It keeps it on the road. Everytime I drove it, I appreciate the job I did & the vehicle ALSO. Money doesnt grow on trees, so I appreciate simple things. Thanks for showing tightening on ground,wished u would say what u were tightening. Looks SUPER!!🙌 Ppl will see ur shiny suspension parts driving behind u!😁Will u be doing anything to front suspension being u mentioned it? Ur SO interesting/down to earth guy! I'm not even DOING this job but it's so damn interesting!! Great video! 🇺🇸

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you. I tightened all the fasteners on the ground. I thought I covered that just before that part of the video. Sorry if it wasn't clear. Yes, I will be covering the front suspension when I drop the front subframe to replace the transmission. Here's a video detailing my plans for this vehicle. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z2LRnWl8eNClY9U

[@ujustswim]

Eric Your awesome man. Impact guns have really changed everything versus wrenching on everything. It looks like you taking things to a next level. I have always wondered why more people don't undercoat or take steps to prevent problems in the future. I understand that you have to stop somewhere. Now that you have taken things to another level will it be difficult to go back to just bolting on new parts. Your a awesome mechanic and my goto on KZbin when I'm researching. Thank you!!

[@Griso12008V]

I have to do this eventually on my 04 MDX. I have a nasty pull to the right on crowned road surface. Everything in the front has been done. All of the bushings in the rear are trashed at 265k miles. Have had it since new might as well keep going. Thanks for the videos!

[@Monacomaverick]

I have an '07, which is the last of the first gen Pilots. I never would have thought to take the rear bumper off as my vehicle has the factory tow package. Thank you for your insight in disassembling this heavy Honda.

[@Nicedesk]

Amazing! Thanks!!! As a '10 Pilot 4x4 owner this will help me on my journey to keeping my Pilot forever. So many great tips! Much appreciated!!

[@nsaglian]

Always used my parking brake for the last 40 years. Never had a problem with the cables binding.

[@bergtechautomotive8886]

My Friday is complete. Many thanks for sharing the journey.

[@joe2mercs]

A huge amount of work. I did my old Mercedes’ recently and both the rear mounts needed to be cut out and re-welded due to corrosion. The layout of the subframe is very similar although the Mercedes has multilink rear suspension arms. Rather than drop the whole rear subframe I just undid one side of the mount bolts to allow the subframe to pivot on the mount bushings on other other side. This really helped to align the new welded mounts. When one side was done I did the other one.

[@WouterB76]

Anti seize on the shank, to keep your gear in good working order. Great job Eric!

[@antonoudenhoven7573]

Looks like there was a bit of water intrusion. Car looks good didn't expect that amount of rust on the inside.

[@Motorsportsgeek]

it isn't. Thats how every 10 year old car's floor will look in the rust belt if you don't clean your carpets and use weathertech floormats otherwise all the snow/salt from your shoes melts and goes right on your floor

[@Ram14250]

@@Motorsportsgeek and stays wet forever! (and stinks)

[@johngranlund4195]

It's always satisfying watching you work, Eric. Plenty of tips and tricks picked up to apply to my own vehicles. I've got 4 in the fleet and something is always needing done. I thank you for your time and expertise! - Long time subscriber.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you and good luck with your future repairs.

[@ortencrystem229]

This is a great demonstration video on how important right to repair is. This vehicle would have 100% ended up on a scrap yard. With the right knowledge and the right tools, professional technicians are more than capable of performing repairs of this kind. Another well done repair. Bravo.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you!

[@dunebasher1971]

I understand the sentiment, but none of this is a "right to repair" issue really, is it? Right to repair is all about manufacturers limiting access to repair parts and information. The only reason this Pilot would otherwise have ended up scrapped is the sheer cost of repairing it versus the current market value of the vehicle, not lack of availability of parts.

[@amak1131]

@@dunebasher1971 I suppose the argument could be made for special scan tools for like brake changes on some cars, otherwise it doesn't apply here.

[@evan7795]

@7:47 thought Eric flipped us off for a second xD

[@TreyCook21]

As a DIYer that is afraid of breaking the bolt off or not getting it tight enough, I really appreciate those torque specifications. I couldn't care less how you assemble your own projects, but it scares me if I don't torque almost everything. So, with sincerity, thank you for the information.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you for being reasonable about that. I really appreciate your comment.

[@mikekilian5403]

I appreciate all your videos. I really won't be working on cars much anymore, but I love your knowledge and all the how-too pieces. Just great and thank you so much.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you!

[@josephreisinger33]

Hay Eirc, thanks for the info on those rusty bolt sockets( I forgot the name) that I just used yesterday on the battery tray of my 08 civic. They did a dam good job of getting the bolts out!!! You take care and I'm gonna stay dirty.......

[@HotRod-wv4vm]

Yep my son’s 2004 rear dust shield rusted and was making noise and now he needs to replace them.

[@robtheslob3940]

Non stop source of noises

[@KKTKTube]

Men - ABS and handbrake line screws I replaced with stainless steel screws. Easy and always shiny.

[@ralphnaomimills6379]

Thanks for all of the Honda videos! Great quality "how to" and teaching!

[@norcal715]

Been waiting soooo long for part two. Cant wait to watch it!

[@georgele872]

don't have but enjoy watching the streaming video awesome!

[@orlandogonzalez822]

Great job nice to have a nice place to work very informative. You must edit out all the curse words LOL.

[@michaelskinner896]

Really good stuff! That was a massive amount of work.

[@samuknow]

I have an 05 Dodge magnum RT that I will be performing this same repair to soon. I realize this is not the same but still gives me an idea of the steps. It is also independent rear suspension with CV axles. Thanks as always for a very complete and thorough repair video. Always entertained.

[@daoyang1562]

Thanks! I enjoy knowing how things work and come apart, watched through the whole video. Back to work now…

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you!

[@danielhowiesr.2593]

Another thorough job by the master mechanic! Love the videos!

[@boots7859]

There's an Australian guy on YT who was a Mechanical Fastener Engineer, and has the skinny on proper torqueing of fasteners. When you lube them, even 'lightly', they are classified as a lubed fastener, and in general require ~30% less torque than when 'dry'. May not be critical for some parts if they are over-tightened, others is definately is. IIRC, John Cadagan is his name.

[@wobblysauce]

The term is lightly oiled.

[@ericthecarguy]

I've also spoken to engineers. My take away is, it's not the torque, it's the stretch that creates the clamping force. Therefore I think of fasteners as springs. I'm not saying proper torque isn't important, quite the opposite, but as I said in the video before this one, over time you get a 'feel' for what a fastener is doing. Thanks for your comment.

[@milliemone]

Great video Eric! I hope your channels continue to grow because you are the best combination of video production and mechanic.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you!

[@mr.volkswagen7296]

Very nice work Eric

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Good informative video as always Eric Great work @EricTheCarGuy

[@gregholloway2656]

Really enjoying this series, Eric. Thanks for making the videos. 👍

[@RB-vt9ku]

Great video. I will be able to use the information on my pilot.

[@harveyh3696]

45:10 Yes this info is entertaining and informational. I have a 2004 Pilot I bought new and intend to keep it for some years to come. I miss having easy access to space where I can work on my 'car'. Last car I had was a 1994 Accord that got sandwiched between a Range Rover and Chevy Pick-up truck. Crumple zone, air-bags, and seat belts work great.

[@ericthecarguy]

Glad you're OK. Thanks for your comment. I really appreciate it.

[@harveyh3696]

@@ericthecarguy And I appreciate your comment. I recently learned that leaving a comment benefits the poster so if you see a lone "AGV" post from me in the future, it's me attempting to get you up in the algorithm.

[@petecurran3995]

Fantastic job, Eric - one of your best yet! 👌🏻

[@ItaliansAreFromItaly]

Love seeing a car being brought back to life :)

[@MM_in_Havasu]

Great tutorial on the rear suspension, now maybe a front suspension video in the works? That'd be cool! Thanks!

[@ericthecarguy]

Yes, I'll cover that when I drop the front subframe to replace the transmission.

[@vijayantgovender2045]

Thank you Eric love watching your videos and can learn from you I am watching from South Africa

[@ericthecarguy]

Always nice to see you in the comments. Have a great weekend.

[@paulwheeless1080]

Thanks for the Idea to mount a GoPro aimed at the suspension and drive train! next to impossible running down noises in my 2005 Pilot.

[@ericthecarguy]

This is my preferred tool for that. www.grainger.com/product/20C894

[@stevenbauer7744]

I'm glad I don't live in the snow belt. Lot's of quality work. The pump for the differential fluid looks like the standard pump for sta-lube brand gear oil bottles.

[@suj1945]

Nice one Eric

[@Mickey_Bauer]

This was very fun to watch, thank you!

[@bruceirvine3962]

I thoroughly enjoyed this video! You are a talented man.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you!

[@markwarren7959]

If I got a Honda project (which I do on a non-stop basis) I go to EricTheCarGuy. Did my timing belt on a 2000 Civic and a steering rack for the same car. The Hayes Manual is there for show. 😂

[@mscir]

Big job, nice work.

[@effenfish661]

thanks for the torque specs, eric!

[@GickelsGaming]

Eric! I just snapped a bolt into the frame of the rear diff mount in my CRV and had to EZ out it. The OEM bolts are 1.25 10x96.5 but 10x100 worked well, if you're in a pinch unti OE can come in.

[@pasqualeseccareccia4972]

Still the best automotive KZbinr. You're the OG Eric

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you!

[@uiucbsme8757]

Nice work Eric. Seeing it apart and back together makes working on mine easier because it's almost like I've done it before. (well, not really, because you make it look fast and easy. (the bolt fight in part 1 was epic) Thanks for all the tips, suggestions and links.

[@ernestlee2796]

Speaking of using the parking break. I like to use mine with the automatic transmission. When I park my car/ Honda pilot I hold the service brake put it in neutral and apply the park brake then put in park. No pressure is on park.

[@TheJurassicJunkie]

It's looking so nice under there!

[@damienogorman9110]

That looks great Eric, thanks for the entertainment and educational content 😉👍 Regards from Galway, Ireland 💚

[@jerryrounds8586]

As always fun to watch your projects.

[@MediumHalf]

Btw I love that you started adding the torque specs in video! I'm sure it's a pain looking each one up but will definitely help people out

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you for noticing. I actually purchased the factory manual just for that information.

[@conradhawkins1426]

Time to comment about using the parking brake. I recommend using it. Last year we had a bad wind storm and power was out for a while. Just wanted to charge the mobile. My driveway is on a hill. Got lucky didn't hit anyone. But the neighbors house it crushed the down spout that was easily bent straight with a screwdriver. Don't be me.

[@byungkook7825]

Thank you, Eric!!

[@mrp4837]

Excellent Video!!!

[@Asomesauc]

Great video thank you

[@jeurisvinas5409]

Thanks Eric you da best:)

[@sjtonic]

Great video, Erik!

[@tiberiusclaudiusnerogermanicis]

This video was brought to you by loctite antisieze sticks lol Just kidding Eric. Enjoyed the video as always!! They actually look pretty handy, might get me some!! You've mentioned people not using parking brake (hand brake here in uk), must be an American thing, we use the handbrake all the time here. But then again we mostly use manuals!

[@ericthecarguy]

They are really useful. kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3q8nHand7OcmNU

[@tiberiusclaudiusnerogermanicis]

@@ericthecarguy yea I watched that video when you posted it, they seem really useful indeed!! I actually have a tin of anti seize and use an old stiff paint brush, I started doing that after one of your first videos you did the same thing. Looked less messy than my finger lol. But I might change again thanks to your good self haha. Even got them snap on line wrenches after seeing them, the stronger open end side is awesome!! Just wish I could get a lift like you have next!! I'm like the Eric of 8 years ago, using nothing but trolley Jack's!

[@keithrimmer3]

Well done Eric a great job done well

[@flyboy61b]

At some time, it would be great to see how you bled the brakes with the fluid extractor. I love that as well. Got one right after you used it on another project and have used it a dozen times...several times for non-car stuff.

[@hickorystx]

Just awesome!!! Thank you for this video...😁

[@danielwoodard680]

terrific content. excellent instruction

[@gavhirt9168]

Corrosion X is your friend in your area and it is electrical safe we spray our controllers and servos with it on our rc boats and anything else that mite grow fungus aka rust

[@Mister006]

The Honda Pilot was manufactured in Lincoln, Alabama in the USA. I wonder how many people that worked there watch this channel?

[@dannybostock2157]

Surely you will have to redo the whole front end Now 🙏🙏🙏

[@dailyfilmfix469]

It keeps another vehicle out of the scrapyard and on the road for someone to drive which in itself is a win win..

[@Ram14250]

Great vid! So very helpful... wow! Thank you for showing and I love the video series on the Pilot! Will you be doing the front next? Helpful hint: when I do brake jobs with disc brakes, I coat the inner hug (hole in the brake disc to keep it from rusting/seizing on the hub.) I live in the rust belt too. Thanks again Eric!

[@ericthecarguy]

Yes, I'll be doing the front suspension along with replacing the transmission in future videos. I'll also be installing fog lights and a supercharger after all the other mechanical work is done. #ETCGHackHawk kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z2LRnWl8eNClY9U