ESP8266 vs ESP32 with WLED

This is a comparison of features and performance of the ESP8266 vs. ESP32 when using standard and sound reactive versions of WLED.
Chapter Links:
00:00 Intro
00:53 Physical size differences
03:20 Test controller design and parts
05:05 LED Test board design
05:46 Standard WLED Single Signal Test
08:05 Standard WLED Dual Signal Test
10:23 Standard WLED Three Signal Test
11:36 Sound Reactive WLED Setup
11:58 SR WLED Feature Differences
13:49 SR WLED Single Segment Test
15:39 SR WLED Three Segment Test
17:15 600 pixel test setup
17:56 ESP8266 600 pixel test
20:07 ESP32 600 pixel test
22:34 Conclusions
23:30 Outro
Parts used (these are affliate links and while it doesn't impact your cost, the channel may earn a small commission from your purchase):
Wemos D1 Mini (ESP8266): amzn.to/3wLpfeg
NodeMCU (ESP8266): amzn.to/3cbs52Y
ESP32 Mini: amzn.to/3HgLDkV
ESP32 Dev Board: amzn.to/3CdPADc
Logic Level Shifter: amzn.to/418Gq94
MAX9814 Microphone: amzn.to/3qzp8l6
Electrocookie Proto Board: amzn.to/3ospyaj
5V 30A Power Supply: amzn.to/3DmaFg8
WS2812b LED Strips: amzn.to/3cb3Rpw
Related blog article that includes controller board wiring diagrams:
resinchemtech.blogspot.com/20...
My other WLED-related project videos:
Build You Own LED Controller: • Build your own LED con...
Sound Reactive WLED Floor Lamps: • DIY Sound Reactive LED...
Motion Activated LED Stair Lights: • Motion activated LED s...
Music attribution: American Idle by RKVC
#esp8266
#esp32
#wled

[@ResinChemTech]

Please note that changes have occurred since this video was filmed. Recent releases of the sound-reactive version of WLED no longer support the ESP8266 and the ESP32 is required. Currently, standard WLED continues to support both the ESP8266 as well as the ESP32.

[@WTCheatShaming]

So out of curiosity can you swap between sound reactive and standard lighting with your phone pretty easily?

[@ResinChemTech]

The sound reactive and "standard" versions are different firmware that you flash to the ESP, so you can't switch from one version to the other without re-flashing the ESP board. However, the sound-reactive version is a modified version built upon the standard version and has most of the same non-sound reactive features and effects. You can use most of the standard features and effects with the sound-reactive version, even if you don't have a microphone... so yes, in this case, you can easily switch between sound-reactive effects and non-reactive effects with your phone. I hope that answers your question.

[@TheOldKid]

Lol I guess I should've checked your video as a refresher before I spent a couple hours trying to do this by memory. I ordered 10 8266 and mics. Oh well I'll go back to esp32

[@n0izes]

I know this is a bit old, and the WLED site can be a bit confusing getting the correct versions. Do you happen to know what the version of WLED you used for the sound reactive? The MoonModules seems to support the 8266 with SR, but I'm not finding a working version off the web install, but did find a few off the unofficial installer. Seems that v13beta3 was the last SR version for the 8266?

[@Tech_Wes_]

Do you still have the Binary file for sound reactive esp8266? I know it's no longer supported, but if it still works, it could be useful for me and the bunch of esp8266 i have lying around. Thanks!

[@patrickdzx1513]

Your videos are great, they sure cover everything needed to set up wled properly with various addons. Thanks a lot for your efforts in helping the community out.

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks! Some of my older videos, like this one, don't necessarily have the best video and audio quality since I hadn't yet invested in better equipment, but hopefully the content itself is still helpful. Thanks for watching and taking a few moments to leave a comment!

[@RC-xn2mj]

As always… you do great jobs… would be great that when you was doing the music test we could see the memory drain in each module…. Thank you !!!

[@ChrisMaherDIY]

Love your channel and great video! Very informative and helpful!

[@ResinChemTech]

Hi Chris! Right back at ya! I've watched a number of your videos as well. In fact, I even credit you in my Hexagon (aka Nanoleaf) LED display, as I followed your construction techniques... although as I admit, all mistakes are my own! Thanks for watching!

[@mpsadre132]

Love your channel to Chris..

[@malessi78]

This was a GREAT video and exactly what I was looking for. I just started to play around with addressable LED's and have been using the ESP8266 to this point. I was wondering what the advantages would be to switch over to the ESP32. My next project will definitely include the ESP32. Thank you for sharing!

[@ResinChemTech]

Glad you found it helpful! I'll probably continue to use both, depending upon the need. Honestly, for shorter LED runs and if I don't need sound reactivity, I'll probably stick with the ESP8266 D1 Mini, both due to its smaller size and lower cost. But having both in the "tool bag" is always a great option. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment. It is appreciated!

[@TownshendChristmasLights]

Great video series. I've been using D1 Minis for my Christmas display. This year I switched to two ESP32 (D1 mini format) with WLED to run my two high density props. They're doing a great job so far.

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks! I just tried an ESP32 with WLED for the first time a few months ago with my first sound-reactive install. I still use the D1 Mini ESP8266 for smaller, non-reactive installs. I like the smaller overall controller size... and of course the lower cost as well! But for larger installs and/or the sound-reactive version, the ESP32 is by far the better choice.

[@afzalahmed86]

Thanks for the explanation and testing!

[@zkcl75]

Thanks for making/sharing this video...the only video that answered my question.

[@ResinChemTech]

You are more than welcome! I'm glad you found it helpful. Don't hesitate to reach back out if there is anything else I can answer or help with. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment!

[@paulfechtmeister9893]

Great video, love the dual screen showing the ESP8266 and ESP32 simultaneously. The board with the strips...love it.

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks! I think the differences would have been even more pronounced with more pixels per channel. But I ran out of LEDs and couldn't figure out a good way to have something like 500 pixels per channel and still film it side by side. My next video (hopefully out tomorrow) takes this further by replacing my ESP8266 with an ESP32 to add sound-reactivity to my WLED Christmas tree for this year. Thanks for watching... and commenting!

[@toddward4756]

Thanks for doing the video. You can read about the differences, but seeing is the way to go. I liked the music. 😃

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks. The differences were much more pronounced in person, but it's really hard to film LEDs... they tend to just overwhelm the camera. The music was the best I could find in the free KZbin library. Some of the effects were really cool with other music... but couldn't include that without risking a copyright strike! Thanks for taking the time to comment!

[@mpsadre132]

Great video, very useful.

[@cdvaight]

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing!

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks! I hope you found something helpful or useful. I appreciate you watching and taking time to comment!

[@cyberkyv]

I was looking for videos of ESP8266 and ESP32 to understand a little better the difference beyond what the technical sheets can inform, I come from my old and faithful friends MEGA and UNO R3, but they are not useful for WLED projects, after seeing your video a couple of times I'm going to assemble something with ESP and since the costs are relatively affordable I think having a couple of each would be ideal. Thanks for sharing your experiences and experiments, you have gained a new sub.

[@ResinChemTech]

You are most welcome.. and thanks for the sub! Building a WLED controller from an ESP is really pretty easy and a great way to get started with DIY... but sounds like you've already done quite a bit of that with the MEGA and UNO. Just be aware that the WLED controllers can be addictive little things. I think I now have somewhere north of two dozen different WLED controllers around the house. My wife just rolls her eyes when I start yet another WLED project (and a new one is in progress now). Thanks for watching... and for taking time to leave a comment. I really do appreciate it. Let me know if you run into any snags or questions along the way.

[@cyberkyv]

Thanks for your answer, and you're absolutely right... the totally addictive. I am buying a pack of 4 ESP32 and 4 ESP8266 to start with the projects at home. I wanted to know if you can give me your opinion based on the work you have done... do you have a pattern to know when to use more dense LED strips (60 Led/m) or less dense (30 Led/m), or is it better to work with several led strips of 1m 144 Leds / m? Or do you have a video to know when or how to balance the density / application ratio of the led strips. I want to make an installation around the ceiling. @@ResinChemTech

[@ResinChemTech]

For me, it depends upon the purpose and intent of the LEDs. If it is to provide task lighting (like over my desk or under the cabinets to light up the countertop, then I use more dense LEDs so that it provides more light... 100 or 144/m. If it is a completely hidden strip that just provides ambient light (like behind a TV) and I will be using mostly solid colors, then I lean towards the lower cost 30 LEDs/m. But I generally use 60 LEDs/m. I find in most cases for me, it is the right balance between the amount of light, good effects and price. It also depends somewhat on the diffusion that I am using and whether I want to see individual pixels or I want more of a 'continuous glow'. Higher counts will normally give a more 'even' light with fewer defined pixels when used with a diffuser. It is totally up to you, but around a ceiling I would opt for 60/m... unless you want those LEDs to provide working light in that room. Good luck with your projects!

[@cyberkyv]

Thank you very much for your complete answer 👍@@ResinChemTech

[@starmc26]

The esp32 can process the frequencies (low mid high) separately, that's why you see a big difference.

[@Gyovione]

Great review video

[@dannismith3038]

great informative video thank you

[@TechWhore]

Thanks for the video - saved me some time attempting sound control with 8266. One question/observation: At timestamp of about 11:00 you mention the memory usage being higher, but I think this is because you incorrectly allocated 200 LEDs to the second segment (Start=100, Count=200) which would cause extra memory allocation but not cause any side efects as the extra 100 LEDs worth of data would be clocked out of the end of the second segment and not affect the third segment. This should explain the 2400 bytes instead of 1800 (each 100 LEDs requires 600 bytes).

[@ResinChemTech]

Sharp eye... and good catch! While it does make the allocated memory higher, I think the point I was attempting to make is that the ESP8266 only has 5K of LED memory vs. the 64K for the ESP32... so even at the correct 1800 bytes, it is still going to be using a much larger percentage of the available memory on the ESP8266. But your calculations are correct... it should have only been 100 LEDs in the second segment, which would have lowered the allocated memory shown. Thanks for the correction.

[@heartofgold5070]

I am moving into a new apartment and would have wasted some money on 8266s. Thank you for your comprehensive tests, very insightful! Plus this is comment #42. How about that :D

[@ResinChemTech]

You are welcome. I'm glad you found it helpful. And thanks for taking time to leave a comment, whether it is #1, #42 or #342!! I really appreciate the comments and feedback (well, most of them anyway) and it helps keep me motivated and hopefully making better videos.

[@Cuplex1]

I have worked with Arduino nano, Raspberry pi and ESP-8266 for a while but still get blown away with the enormous amounts of functionality in the ESP-32 S3. When it comes to Wi-Fi and Bluetooth advanced functionality. Or even functionality overall, power saving modes, multithreaded running Tasks with shared resources, much more memory and enough to use OTA in RAM only with a custom bootloader. Some have a built-in battery adapter and charger.. RTOS, enabled by a dualcore CPU is also a big difference. You can use the modular boards with ESP-32. Just switch out the power blocks on two breadboards and they go together perfectly like two pieces of a jigsaw puzzle.

[@ResinChemTech]

I know... it's amazing, isn't it? And all this functionality in a board that you can generally purchase for less than $10!

[@michaeluncapher83]

Great video. Think I’m going to get me a few esp32s. Could you do a video on running 1000 pixels with a 8266? Seems like WLED wants to stay at 800 to prevent data lag. I haven’t tested it yet, but would be curious.

[@ResinChemTech]

This is directly from the WLED site: "ESP8266 can calculate about 15k LEDs per second (that means 250LEDs @~60fps, 500 LEDs @~30fps, 1000 LEDs @~15fps)". So even without testing, you can see that the ESP8266 is going to start to "lag" or stutter on effects once you get above 500, with increasing jitter as you approach 1000. Again, from WLED: "ESP32 can calculate about 65k-85k LEDs per second (that means 1000 LEDs @~70fps, 2000 LEDs @~35fps, 4000 LEDs @~18fps)" so you aren't going to start to experience that lag that you might see with the ESP8266 at 500 pixels until you are north of 2,000 LEDs with the ESP32. As a general rule of thumb, you can use about 4x the number of LEDs with the ESP32 before you see similar lag or jitter as on the ESP8266.

[@Johnsmith-uc9df]

Great Video Thank you from Australia

[@ResinChemTech]

You are most welcome. And thanks for watching and taking time to comment. I hope you found something helpful or useful in the video.

[@toddward4756]

The multiple pin channels is interesting. Wondering is there an advantage of using multiple channels verses one channel. For example, we can use 1 channel and have 2 segments or 2 channels each to a segment. Performance better when using multiple channels? I heard 800 leds per channel, so maybe that is a good reason to use 2 pins if >800. What are your thoughts?

[@ResinChemTech]

I think you are right... multiple channels are better with high pixel counts. It comes down, I believe, to 'frame rate'. The ESP can't keep up with the data needed to create "smooth' animations with a high number of pixels. You can divide that into segments, but if it is driven by a single pin, the same limitation still exists. Dividing the output using multiple pins allows each "pin segment" (still under 800 pixels each) to keep up the frame rate for more than 800 pixels in total.. although each is independent... so this won't really help with something like a matrix (of say 40x40 pixels). Any sort of animation is going to be "choppy" at times with a configuration similar to this. So, my take is if you have around 800 pixels or less and want different effects within that length, segments alone on a single pin are fine. If you have much over 800 pixels, you want to divide those up into different pin outputs of 800 or less. Of course, like everything, YMMV and the "smoothness' of the animation is highly dependent upon the effect.

[@N100NXX]

Great video, thanks for sharing. Just one question: isn't the sk6812 more efficient than the ws2812? I always aim for sk strips, am I wasting money away? Again, thank for sharing and wishes of a prosperous New year 🌟👍

[@ResinChemTech]

For me, it depends upon use case. If I am using the LEDs to provide task lighting or additional room light, then I will opt for SK6812 for a better white. If the lights are pretty much decorative or just for ambient lighting, then I will generally use WS2812b. For example, if the LEDs are for lighting behind a surface, like a TV, and I don't expect to need white light, then for me, spending the extra money on SK6812 would be wasted, as WS2812b would be perfectly fine for that use particular case. But that's just how I approach my projects. For the majority, I use WS2812b.

[@z0lt4n]

Thank you for this useful video, how to use long strips and wiring of logic level shifter

[@ResinChemTech]

Wow! Thank you very much. I greatly appreciate it... and your support of the channel. I'm glad that you found the video helpful. I do know that a lot of people feel the shifter can be skipped... and in many cases you *might* get away without it. But by using one, it assures you have a strong signal and are much less likely to have any signal problems due to longer wiring runs. Please don't hesitate to get back in touch if you have any follow up questions.

[@Gyovione]

So on these kind of boards or in WLed, the name Channels refers to an outputs or outlets, as in other controlling board like DMX channels refer to a number of leds in a pixel, like RGB are 3 channels for example, thanks

[@ResinChemTech]

If I'm understanding you correctly, not quite... at least with WLED. When dealing with clockless LED pixels, like WS2812b or WS2811, there is a single data signal or line that controls the LEDs. In the case here, a channel refers to a single data signal to the LEDs (even though the LEDs themselves are RGB). Channels or pins in this case, means a completely independent data signal or control that would go to a different LED strip. You would not run two or three 'channels' from the board to a given LED strip. I've not used DMX, but more info on using WLED with DMX can be found here: kno.wled.ge/interfaces/dmx-output/

[@KS4RonPaul]

Amazing video! I learned so much. Do you have a schematic showing how you integrated the power supply? Is it possible to use the ESP32 to supply signal to 48v WS2811, WS2814, bulbs?

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks! I do have a blog where I maintain various wiring diagrams for different versions of LED controllers, including a section on wiring the power supplies: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html As far as 48V, I haven't used them myself, but if the device expects a 5V signal (I know that 12V and most 24V do... you can always check the device specs), then you should be able to use the ESP32, with a level shifter, to send the data to the LEDs. Do note that I also have other blog articles on LEDs and most of these also have wiring diagrams that you may find helpful. Thanks for watching. Hope my videos are helpful in your own projects.

[@mikewhalon2894]

Awesome video. Decided to jump into the LED hobby. After some research, I ordered parts to assemble music reactive lights. However right away have a problem. My EXP32-Wroom-32 module is different from the one depicted in the video. Mine has 38 pins, and the pin order is clearly different than the example in the video. The module came with a paper labeling the pins, but alas, I'm struggling to transpose the wiring diagram. Can you help?

[@ResinChemTech]

The physical position of the pin isn't important, it's the pin (GPIO) number that matters. And with the newer versions of WLED, you can specify which pins you are using for things like the data line and the audio in line. This means you can use pretty much any appropriate pin and just tell WLED which pins you are using. Now, not all pins are appropriate. By default, WLED expects the data line to be GPIO16. For the audio, the recommended default audio in/mic line is GPIO32. So, if you use these two pins, regardless of where they are physically located on the board, it should work. If you want to use different pins, I often use the following site that does a really good job of describing which pins are appropriate for certain uses: randomnerdtutorials.com/esp32-pinout-reference-gpios/ You can use any of the pins marked as "OK" for output for the LED data pin, and any of the pins labeled as ADC_1 for the mic/audio in (do not use any of the ADC_2 pins as they interfere with wifi). Then you just specify in WLED which pins you are using. But unless I have a good reason otherwise, I usually just stick with the default pins that WLED expects. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@ZbyszekJot]

I know it's been a while since this video, but haven't you stumble upon the M5Stamp? I'ts ESP32 in incredible small form factor. I love it!

[@vltek]

GREAT video! Any chance you could post the wiring pinout of the 32? I cant seem to find the wiring diagram for the microphone. Working on designing a PCB on EasyEDA

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks! I usually do a related blog article for my videos that require wiring diagrams, code, etc. but I didn't for this one because I sorta', kinda' covered the controller build in my Build Your own LED controller and the sound version in my Sound Reactive Floor lamp video... and each of those have blogs with wiring diagrams. But here are my notes/wiring I used for this video for the two controllers: Testing setup: ESP8266 ======== Signal outputs on GPIO1, 2 and 3 (TX, D4 and RX) all through level shifter D4 (GPIO02) - Signal out Strip 1 TX (GPIO01) - Signal out Strip 2 RX (GPIO03) - Signal out Strip 3 Microphone: (MAX9814) VDD and Gain to 3V3 (40db per recommendation) GND to GND Out to A0 (ADC0) AR - not used ESP32 ====== Signal outputs (all through level shifter): RX2 (GPIO16) - Signal out Strip 1 D18 (GPIO18) - Signal out Strip 2 D19 (GPIO19) - signal out Strip 3 Microphone (MAX9814) VDD and Gain both to 3V3 GND to GND Out to VP (GPIO36) AR - not used Let me know if you have any additional questions. I may throw up the actual diagrams into a blog article when I get the time.

[@vltek]

@@ResinChemTech thank you for this

[@ResinChemTech]

You are more than welcome. I did decide to throw together a quick blog article that includes the wiring diagrams for both controllers. You probably don't need it with the pinout info I provided, but you can see it here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/11/esp8266-vs-esp32-with-wled.html I've also added this to the video description details as well. Good luck with your project!

[@Vidal2021]

Where can I find the esp32 pinout info for the gpoi and which to use for multiple outputs? Does using the audio reactive fw utilize one of the four recommended maximum outputs if the esp32? I see the diagram on your blog with the sound reactive version wired to three led outputs. Thanks.

[@ResinChemTech]

kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/

[@jima1815]

Hello ResinChem Tech, great video's. On the ESP32 Mini you like to use because of the size, how many Channels will it support?

[@ResinChemTech]

Are you talking about LED data channels for WLED? If so, WLED supports a maximum of 10 channels/pins on the ESP32.... and the ESP32 Mini has 38 connected pins. Now, not all 38 pins are not useable as a data channel, but many can be defined as needed and there are definitely more than the 10 maximum allowable by WLED for use as a data channel. The dual row of pins can present a challenge if you want to mount on a breadboard or prototype board, like an ElectroCookie (because it would result in adjoining pins being electrically connected). But I generally just use the inner rows for most of my projects (the D1 Mini compatible pins) and that is generally still plenty of GPIO pins. So, regardless of using the ESP32 Mini or full size board, you will be able to use up to the maximum 10 channels supported by WLED. See the official WLED web site for more info on using multiple channels (and recommened max LEDs per channel): kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/

[@jramosh1972]

excellent video, what is the song you used? it is extremely rhythmic and enveloping! thank you very much for sharing greetings!

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks! The music is from the KZbin audio library and it is American Idle by RKVC.

[@Atze24]

this video is gold! Thank you.. but just one thing... counting from 0 - 100 is 101 ;) your segments should be (1st seg.) 0-99, (2nd seg.) 100-199, (3rd seg.) 200-299. in your case the 100. LED is in 2 segments have a great day

[@ResinChemTech]

Yeah... it can be a bit confusing, but as the WLED web site states: "The Stop LED is not included in the Segment.". So, when you list the segment as 0-100, "100" is not included, therefore it actually is 100 LEDs (0 - 99). And, since it is zero based, the next segment starts with the same LED number as you used for the stop LED in the previous segment... 100 - 200, which is also only a 100 LEDs, since pixel "200" isn't included as the stop LED in this case (100-199). Therefore, the way I defined the segments is actually correct for how they are used in WLED. Again, maybe a later version will change this as I think it can be confusing for a lot of people, especially those that are just starting out. Check out the official WLED website on segments for more info: kno.wled.ge/features/segments/ But you are correct, that this seem incorrect when you watch it. But it really is the proper way to define the segments as I used in the video.

[@keithbyrne2800]

Resin, thank you for the videos they are very informative and give confidence. At 4:24 you mention a maximum of 4 channels is recommended for the esp32. Can you tell me the pin you would recommend for the last (4th) channel in the diagram provided in your blog? Thanks in advance!

[@ResinChemTech]

When using the ESP32, you can pretty much use any appropriate pin. Per the official WLED web site: "the pin usage does not matter on ESP32, feel free to use any available pin". Now, 'available pin' means one appropriate for output. You can always refer to this site for recommended pin usage: randomnerdtutorials.com/esp32-pinout-reference-gpios/ If you look for the chart of GPIO pins in the above article, you can pretty much use any pin that is marked with a green "OK" for output. You just need to enter the pin you opt to use on the WLED settings page. Hope that helps!

[@keithbyrne2800]

@@ResinChemTech thank you very much for the help!

[@steveanimatrix3887]

About the esp32 unit that just fits the breadboard but doesn't leave an extra row to expose the pins...you can use a "stacking header" on the esp32 instead of just male header pins, which would give you male pins under the board to secure it to the breadboard but also has female headers on the top of the board to access the pins. It's basically just a female header with extra long leads that will go through the esp32 board holes with enough extra length to act like a regular male header and you now have a female header on top to access all pins.

[@ResinChemTech]

Yeah... I've done that with other projects, like my matrix clocks (even though those are D1 Minis) and I'm working an a project now that uses the ESP32 Mini and I'm doing exactly what you describe. Part of the reason I generally don't do that is laziness! Adding the header makes it just slightly too tall to fit in my standard ElectroCookie enclosure... and I'm too lazy to design a taller box! But if I'm putting the controller inside of something else where height isn't an issue, I generally include the headers regardless... it just makes it easier to pull and re-flash or replace the ESP board if it fails or an update does something like put it into a boot loop and it can't be flashed OTA anymore. Thanks for taking the time to pass along the suggestion.

[@vacantspace333]

I have a question. What is the maximum amount of rgb led's that can be connected to a ESP8266 in conjunction with WLED? I feel like putting a strip all around the perimeter of my living room as a mood light thing.

[@ResinChemTech]

512 LEDs per data pin is the maximum recommended for the ESP8266 per the WLED official site: kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/

[@notthesnail]

Is there some reason when you set up outputs and segments that you don't use 0-99 for a count of 100 or 1 to 100 for a count of 100? And also 100-199 or 101-200 (and so forth) for the additional outputs and segments?

[@ResinChemTech]

It's because that's the way WLED is setup to define segments. From it's wiki: "Segment 0 has a Start LED of 0 and a Stop LED equal to the LED Count you defined in Configuration, LED Preferences. The Stop LED is not included in the Segment." Yeah... it was a bit confusing for me too and took a few tries to get it right... but it helps because it also gives you the count defined in each segment. So, in reality, the first segment was pixels 0-99, the second was 100-199, etc. as you describe.

[@WH0oo...]

The non-technical explaination, programming. Each LED (address/index) is stored an array with key index starting at 0. It's the base from which each offset is calculated most efficiently. In programming LED it's a location in the array. Thus, the "addressable" description.

[@JamesOversteer]

Can either of the devices control more than one strip at once? Say, I wanted four strips going in one direction all moving at the same time? Secondly, is there any way to set this whole system up so when a switch is turned on the controller turns on and in return turns the LEDs on to a pre programmed pattern?.

[@ResinChemTech]

The answer to both questions are yes... but the details are a little too long for me to include here in the comments. Check out the WLED documentation for multi-strip support for the first question: kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/ For the second question, you can set a preset that will run on boot up/power on. So if you use a switch to power on the controller/LEDs, then WLED will automatically turn on the LEDs to whatever pattern/preset you have defined. See this in the documentation: kno.wled.ge/features/settings/

[@paulday4763]

Around 12:48 you're showing the 2D settings on the ESP32. I bought the NodeMCU VROOM 32 ESP32 board and when running WLED, I'm not getting the 2D settings. Is there a secret to enabling the 2D settings on the ESP32. I 'd really like to use that to create an LED fireplace. I was planning on using 24 LED strips, using the segments and multiple outputs, but the 2D would make it much simpler, if I can get the settings to appear.

[@ResinChemTech]

Are you using the sound-reactive version of WLED? The 2D effects that I am showing are not currently available in the general version of WLED. At least not yet. I believe the sound-reactive version is now offered via the web installer (in the dropdown). Or you can grab the binary from the sound-reactive forked version ( github.com/atuline/WLED ) and flash it.... this is the approach I took because the sound-reactive version wasn't available via the web installer when I created this video. I hope that helps. Once you have the SR version installed, you should see the additional sound-reactive effects.

[@grogers4277]

Great video! Very informative and well explained. Have you used the Esp32 OLED? If so, are there any advantages over the original Esp32? Thank you

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks. No, I haven't tried the OLED version yet. Mostly because I haven't come up with a good use case for it (at least for me). While I love the idea and concept, I'm just not sure where I would use something with such a small display, especially with my eyesight! But I'm sure I'll snag one at some point, for no other reason than to play around with it and that sometimes generates ideas for what I might do with it. Thanks for watching and taking time to post a comment!

[@ronanderson3884]

Is there a way to wire in audio output from a stereo receiver, headphone out, keyboard, etcetera instead of using a microphone?

[@ResinChemTech]

Yep. You can find that info here: kno.wled.ge/advanced/audio-reactive/

[@black11189]

With the sound reacting version w/esp32 can we make it to like a sound meter with define value ? I want to make a sound meter with 3 coloc level (green yellow red classic)

[@ResinChemTech]

The sound reactive version has a couple of different effects that are similar to a sound meter, each with different customizable options (such as number of bars, colors, etc.). The standard WLED also has a GEQ matrix effect that looks like a sound meter as well. You can check out the available SR WLED effects here: github.com/atuline/WLED/wiki/Reactive-Animations and the standard WLED animations here: kno.wled.ge/features/effects/ (see effect #139 GEQ).

[@kaihendry]

I don't quite understand how you routed the music to the controllers. Do they have microphones?

[@ResinChemTech]

Yes, microphones are connected to the controllers. You can see full information on the WLED sound reactive site: github.com/atuline/WLED/wiki

[@waynes517]

Would it be possible to use this to get a cool effect on the stairs - LED's lighting each stair individually up/down each step if a button is pressed or IR sensor at top and bottom of stairs?

[@ResinChemTech]

The firmware I am using in this video isn't mine. It's firmware called WLED. You can check out its capabilities and options here ( kno.wled.ge/ ). This is the same firmware I used for my LED stair project where the stairs light up based on a sensor at the top and bottom of the stairs ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/j2OcimOfibGanck )

[@waynes517]

@@ResinChemTech I literally just found that video - it's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for taking the time to reply :)

[@grouminou]

I have both ESP8266 and ESP32 for my projects and most of the time, I end up using ESP32 because of incompatibilities and weird issues with the ESP8266. Last time was the SQL client that wasn't avaialable for the ESP8266.

[@ResinChemTech]

I've started using ESP32 more as well. It all depends on the project. For simpler projects that don't require or demand the higher capabilities, I'll still use the ESP8266 (specifically the D1 Mini) for its smaller size and price tag. But many of the smart home device manufacturers are also starting to use the ESP32 instead of the ESP8266 (or moving away from the ESP line altogether to prevent us from easily flashing Tasmota or other custom firmware!).

[@heed7496]

can yow show which pins to use ESPmini 32 with the INMP441 omni mic? I can't figure out which the audio in pins are and if there is enough? One datasheet for esp8666 says 1 audio in pin only..can't locate for mini 32

[@ResinChemTech]

The INMP441 is a digital device that uses I2S, so the single analog pin does not apply in this case, like it would with an analog mic such as the MAX9814. You can see how I connect the INPM441 to the ESP32 mini in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3XUh6OJmLRgrrM (see the controller section) and there are also wiring diagrams in the related blog article for that video here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/07/curtain-lights.html I hope that helps.

[@heed7496]

@@ResinChemTech THANK you for a very quick reply! And thanks for your videos! I made a Sound reactive 1428 pixel Matrix from your curtain video…it works great and my most complex yet. Now I was trying to clean up the spaghetti breadboard into a compact project box . Was hoping to use the Espmini but it keeps losing wifi connection so it may be a crappy unit.. anyway thanks so much. Im looking forward to adding some pixel art to my new matrix!

[@AugustAPC]

Hi, Resin. Your video has been extremely helpful to me. I'm very new to LEDs and had a question if you wouldn't mind helping me out. I'm attempting to run LED strip around the perimeter of my room. This is about 47 feet in total. Close to 3 full strips. I know I'm going to need multiple power injections, I think at least 1 more than there are terminals available on usual power supplies. Can I run two power injections from one terminal on the power supply? Would that even work, and if so, would it compromise the power distribution at all? Also, could you please confirm if a 60v power source would be adequate to reliably power 850 LEDs with proper power injection? Thank you again for your help and your very informative video.

[@ResinChemTech]

I'm glad you have found my videos helpful! To answer your questions: Yes, you can run multiple feeds from the same terminal on the power supply. For a more secure connection (especially when dealing with the power/amps you are going to be using), it might be better to run a single secure connection from each terminal (using something like a spade connector with a large gauge wire), then split that single wire into multiple power injection runs using something like Wago connectors). If you have 850 LEDs, then the max amps would be approximately 850 x 0.06A = 51A. So, yes 60A (not 60V... and this is assuming your power supply and LEDs are 5V) would be adequate for full brightness of all LEDs. You will likely not hit this value if you are running normal WLED effects or at less than 100% brightness. As a safety precaution, you can also use the brightness limiter setting in WLED and set it to something like 40 or 45A. But one other thing to note here is going to be the gauge of wire that you use for your power injection/power runs. Since you are dealing with some pretty high current, make sure you are using appropriate gauge wire. I can't tell you what you need, because it is also highly dependent upon the length of the wire runs. There are online calculators that help you determine the appropriate gauge wire to use, based on power and wire length. Don't try to make these sorts of runs with something like 24 gauge wire! I'd recommend a full bench test with the lengths/gauge wire you expect to use in the final install. Run it at full brightness white for a white while you carefully monitor all wiring and components to assure nothing it getting hot to the touch. You might also want to consider adding an inline fuse to your install as well. Good luck with your project. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

[@AugustAPC]

@@ResinChemTech Thank you for the reply. Again, I'm very new to this and am unfamiliar with spade and wago connectors. Is there a purpose to recommending I use a spade connector other than adding the ability to connect and disconnect the injections from the power supply? And for the wago connectors, would I just run the connection from the power supply into one terminal on the connector and then the wires from the injections into the other terminals? I'm sorry if my nomenclature isn't very accurate.

[@ResinChemTech]

No problem! I just recommend spade connectors as a more secure and safer connection to the power supply than just connecting the bare wires to the terminals (where stray strands might touch and cause a short). They aren't a requirement. As far as Wago clips, you can also use standard wire nuts... or even twist the wires together and tape them with electrical tape. Wago clips are just much more convenient and secure. If it helps, you might take a look at my blog article where I talk about using WS2812b strips: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2022/03/using-led-strips.html If you look about 3/4 the way down in this article, under the section on 'Connecting and Routing the Power', there is a diagram that shows a common wiring scenario. To add power injection to this diagram, you would just add wires to the Wago connections (or wire nuts) for +5 and GND and run those to your power injection points. I hope that helps to clear things up a bit. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@AugustAPC]

@@ResinChemTech I think I understand, now. There are spade connectors that are made to connect directly to the terminal, yes? I was a bit confused as I thought they were just to connect wires. So I just connect a spade to the terminal and use something like 18 gauge wire to run into the wago connectors and then run the injections to it as well. Is that correct? Thank you again for your time.

[@ResinChemTech]

You got it! Although be sure that the gauge wire you are using (especially between the power supply and Wagos) is adequate to carry the amps needed for the entire project. If you are using 3 full strips as you stated above, 18 gauge might not be large enough. A lot of factors go into determining the proper gauge, including the length of the wire, type of wire (copper vs. aluminum clad, etc). There are online calculators that can help you with that. I usually use a larger gauge wire from the power supply, then slightly smaller gauge for the individual power injection runs. Just be safe and assure you aren't overloading your wiring.

[@gokhanayvazoglu6295]

Hello, do you know any device or controller with speakers to use wled witouth soldering speakers? I want to use wled with music reactive option.

[@ResinChemTech]

I'm not sure I understand. WLED does not output any sound... it only reacts to sound that is received via a microphone connected to the controller. If you were to connect speakers, there would be no sound output to those speakers. Are you talking about a device with a built-in microphone that could be used with WLED? There might be something out there, but I am not familiar with it. Connecting a microphone only involves three wires and you could use a breadboard if you do not want to solder. If you do find an ESP32 device with a microphone (note that sound-reactive WLED now requires an ESP32... it will no longer work with an ESP8266), be sure it is compatible with WLED. You can find information on compatible hardware on the official WLED web site: kno.wled.ge/

[@UNoWho]

there is an off the shelf option made by a company called ATHOM

[@grimster76]

You did a great job in doing the video I just wished you used the same chip that I'm using witch is the esp32 mini blue 40 pin chip ( the small one with 40 holes ) and don't know how to set the sound what pins do use I have look over and over on youtube and everyone keeps using the BIG esp32 chip like you just did can you please help me out. Thanks!!

[@ResinChemTech]

With the ESP32, you have a choice of a number of different pins for the mic (unlike the ESP8266, that just has a single analog pin). I find the following helpful: randomnerdtutorials.com/esp32-pinout-reference-gpios/ You can use any of the ADC1 pins (don't use ADC2 pins because they interfere with wifi). Then you just specify which pin you used in the WLED sound settings. Otherwise, the connections are basically the same. I do have some standard wiring diagrams for LED controllers that might also help if you are interested: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html Note that as mentioned at the top of these comments, the ESP8266 is no longer supported for the latest versions o f sound reactive WLED. But when using the ESP32, you can use most pins and you just tell WLED which pins you are using for LED data, sound, etc. I hope that helps.

[@grimster76]

@ResinChemTech I've looked at it and don't understand it I guess there has to be a video with the exact equipment I'm using so I can understand it better using the MAX4466 with a esp32 mini d1 with 40 pins. No video out with this chip 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

[@TheAqualogy]

Love the videos, just have a quick question. I have a bunch of ESP32-WROOM-32D boards laying around. Can I do the same as the ESP32 you mention in this video or is it different

[@ResinChemTech]

For all practical purposes, the ESP-WROOM-32D is identical to the board I used in this video and it should work in the same way with WLED. Depending on your particular board, pin locations may be different, so just check the GPIO pins carefully. Good luck with your project!

[@jameschumbris8421]

ResinChem Tech I am interested in the file sketch used in your video for the EPS32. Would you have it on a github forum?

[@ResinChemTech]

Not in Github (not for this project), but many of my projects have related blog articles with wiring diagrams. You can always check the video description for links. However, the related blog article (with wiring diagrams) for this video can be found here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2021/11/esp8266-vs-esp32-with-wled.html

[@ResinChemTech]

Oh... if you were talking about the firmware, that's not mine, but WLED. You can find all the infomation regarding that (including the info for the Github repo) at: kno.wled.ge/

[@jameschumbris8421]

​@@ResinChemTech so greatful and hope to build a nice project like yours.

[@grimster76]

So I was trying to do a matrix panel & a led strip on a sign I'm working on with 1 esp32 chip using segments I can only get the matrix to work but not the LED strip can you do a video on this or can this even be done. I was using 2 different pins also

[@ResinChemTech]

You should be able to use two different pins... one for the matrix and one for the strip.. using a single ESP32. But the setup in WLED can be tricky to understand. Not only do you need to define multiple pin outputs (and lengths) via the Config -> LED Preferences, you must also define the segments on the main LED page (and these need to match each other for independent control). Then you must be sure to select which segment(s) you are controlling via the checkboxes. If you haven't already, you may want to review the section on segments on the official WLED web site: kno.wled.ge/features/segments/ It's critical that you set the pixel counts and starting/ending positions properly for the segments. You may also want to peek at the section on multi-strip support on that site as well. What you want to do is entirely possible and assuming the wiring is correct, it is likely something within the WLED configuration that is preventing you from turning on the LED strip.

[@grimster76]

@ResinChemTech Thanks I'll look into it I'm using 16×16 panel and a 18 led strip

[@Moyo1975]

can you share the purpose of the Logic Level Shifter

[@ResinChemTech]

To shift the 3.3V signal from the ESP GPIO pin to the 5V signal expected by the LED strip. I cover this, why I always use one and more in my video on the logic level shifter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h2rQfZyqi915acU

[@kitch1202]

Great video but I have a crazy question, I tried several ESP32 and both have had issues with WLED. VROOM wouldn't get past the network password and never found it and the other one wouldn't connect to the lights. My question is what ESP32 board is recommended for WLED or how do I get the board to recognize the wifi? Thank you

[@ResinChemTech]

I've had some issues with some older ESP32's not wanting to flash (I actually had a batch of 5 where three of them wouldn't flash no matter what I tried). Sometimes you need to hold down the BOOT button on certain ESP32s when attaching the USB cable and keep it pressed until the flash starts and then release it. But it sounds like the boards you are trying are flashing (I'm guessing you can see them being written to?). Are they potentially boot-looping after the flash? Watch the board after it's flashed. If you see the onboard LED flashing every few seconds, that means it is rebooting and likely stuck in a loop. You can try flashing again.. that will sometimes fix a corrupted flash. How are you loading WLED? Is it via the WLED web site and browser? You can also try downloading the .bin file from the WLED releases and use a local flashing app like ESPHome Flasher or NodeMCU PyFlasher. I don't know why, but sometimes flashing with one method over another can solve an issue. As far as "which" board... I've used a variety of ESP32 boards, NodeMCU VROOM 32 included, successfully with WLED. My current favorite is the ESP32 mini, due to its smaller size... as long as you don't need to use two adjacent pins on a breadboard. If the boards you've tried were all from the same seller or came together in the same batch, you might just try getting some boards from a different seller. The official WLED web site also lists known boards that work with WLED: kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/ I hope that helps. Don't hesitate to reach out again if you find that a different set of boards also don't seem to work right with WLED.

[@kitch1202]

​@@ResinChemTech Thank you

[@hernanpacheco3016]

Can I use the 3v pin to power the shifter and mic?

[@ResinChemTech]

Yes, the microphone lists an operating voltage from 2.7v-5.5v. As far as the shifter, it needs both 3.3V and 5V. 3.3V can be fed from the 3.3V pin on the LV side of the shifter, but it also needs 5V on the HV side (and a ground connection on both sides). The easiest way to create multiple connections to either the 3.3V or 5V pin from an ESP board is to use either a breadboard or ElectroCookie-type proto board that has a power rail on each side. That way you can connect the 3.3V pin to the power rail on one side and the 5V pin on the other. You then have additional connections for other components that need either 3.3V or 5V. I have a blog that shows a number of these standard wiring diagrams, including a section on more information regarding connecting a microphone: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2023/01/wiring-diagrams.html Hope the information is helpful.

[@mohammadjavadhasanzadeh7730]

what is the code that you uploaded it on modules? I can't find it.

[@ResinChemTech]

WLED: kno.wled.ge/

[@REYSIGNS]

how did you make it send different singles ?

[@ResinChemTech]

You can use WLED segments and/or different data pins to send different signals to different parts of the LEDs. I actually cover that in the video, but you can find more info on the WLED site: kno.wled.ge/features/segments/

[@oOoMasterblasteroOo]

I was wanting the placement of the mic to be about 8 feet away from the rest of the WLED board. How long of a run do you think I could have to place the mic?

[@ResinChemTech]

You would probably be fine with 8 feet... I've never really tested the distance for the mic, but I have one install where the mic is around 5-6 feet away from the controller. As a precaution, use heavier gauge wire if you can... and try to keep the mic wires away from other electrical sources to avoid interference with the audio signal.

[@oOoMasterblasteroOo]

@@ResinChemTech Thanks for the info! My controller will be in a corner and furthest away from where any speakers would be. I intend on hiding the mic inside a panel quite a bit closer to the speakers.

[@deadmusik9969]

Do you have an alternative for a logic level shifter?

[@ResinChemTech]

You can use a single LED pixel installed on or very near the controller. This effectively will act as a shifter and pass on a 5V signal to the rest of the strip. I cover this in my video on Building your own WLED controller: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5fZZ6qMaLegbKM And if you are using WLED, it gives you the option of skipping the first pixel and not lighting it up if you are using it as a level shifter.

[@MuhNoorAkbarH]

So nice sir

[@toddcoello6461]

I'm back. Lol. I'm so frustrated. I ordered all the stuff. I'm waiting on the smaller board. But I figured I'd try the lights.i flashed the esp board via the wled site. I soldered the headers on the board. Hooked up to the lights used a phone charger just to try it. Everything worked great for about 10 minutes then nothing. Board doesn't show up anymore. Blue light comes on it won't reflash. So I tried another one and same thing happened. But only worked a few minutes. Any thoughts? Nothing is hot.

[@ResinChemTech]

When you say you used a phone charger... to power what? The ESP board, the LED lights, both? I'm happy to try to help you out, but it's probably something we could do better outside of the KZbin comment section. Would you mind reaching out to me via email? You can find my email address on the "About" page of my channel. I'd just give you the email here, but it would likely get picked up by bots and lead to lots of spam! Just reference your post here somehow in your initial email so I can recognize who I'm talking to!

[@DADDYNOOB]

I have about 5 mtrs of rgbic led strip light I have spare that I cut off a large roll Will these connect to this and control it

[@ResinChemTech]

It depends upon the type of LED strip you are using. You can find a list of compatible LED strips that will work with this controller and WLED here: kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/ Just identity the type of LEDs that you have. It is on the list that I linked above, then yes it should work with these controllers.

[@DADDYNOOB]

@@ResinChemTech thanks will have a look They are RGBIC They where on a 15 mtr roll for a friend so have 5 mtrs left

[@andrewm1967]

do you need to add a resistor between the esp and the led's ?

[@ResinChemTech]

I have only found the need to add a resistor in one instance. That was a situation where I had a nearly 20 foot run of wiring between the controller and the start of the LED strip and was using a single 3-wire cable and the data signal ran parallel to the ground within this cable. I added a 33 ohm resistor to the signal line for this instance. If you are finding that you have data signal issues (even after boosting the data signal to 5V.... most data signal issues are a result of voltage drop when a logic level shifter isn't used), then you can try adding a resistor. But in nearly two dozen LED installations, I've only needed to add a resistor in the single instance described above. Hope that helps!

[@Keeping_IT_Simple]

Just started with WLed & Sound Reactive WLed... A very useful video sir thank you ... I found that with the ESP32 version a digital microphone ( inmp401 or similar) gives better results . As well many of the effects benefit greatly from having the various sliders adjusted ... Once you've got an effect you like simply save it as a preset ! Now to catch up on the rest of your videos as I'm a bit late to the party ?

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks for watching! I actually have only done a few SR WLED installs. This video came from a subscriber request to see the differences in the ESP8266 and ESP32. For me, the ESP32 definitely provides additional features and options when using the sound-reactive version. I have a 16x25 WS2812b matrix with WLED (and a second controller for clock/scoreboard/text display), but at some point I'd like to upgrade that to the SR version and add a mic to see what kind of effects I could get from a matrix. I appreciate you taking the time to comment.

[@davidklement2201]

Is it correct 1st segment 0-100 and 2nd segment 100-200 (like in video) OR 1st segment 0-100 and 2nd segment 101-200 ? It seems a bit illogical for one LED to be common to both segments.Thanks for answer.

[@ResinChemTech]

Yes... it is a bit confusing but that's how WLED does segments: "Segment 0 has a Start LED of 0 and a Stop LED equal to the LED Count you defined in Configuration, LED Preferences. The Stop LED is not included in the Segment." See the official WLED site for details: kno.wled.ge/features/segments/ So, in this case, specifying 0-100 is actually physical pixels 1-100 (not 101 since the last pixel isn't included). The next segment, 100-200, is physical pixels 101-200. It can be a bit confusing, but what I show in the video is actually correct based on how WLED is configured for segments.

[@mitchellwilson12354]

The 38pin ESP32 with no mounting holes is the same width as the ESP8266.

[@toddward4756]

hi again, I received my Microphone from China and gave this a try. I did get it to work, but I have a funny bug and I'm wondering if you have seen it before. When I plug in, controller and lights come on, but microphone effects don't work. I then unplug the controller only and turn back on and the effects are now active. My guess is that perhaps controller becomes active before microphone and since microphone not active then no effects? Have you seen this before? I'm so close.

[@ResinChemTech]

Sorry, I haven't seen anything like that with any of my sound-reactive installs. But I just looked at the issues on Github for the latest version of SR-WLED (0.13.0-b6) and apparently it changed some things with the microphone framework that is causing issues for some: ==== One thing that's particular with the updated microphone code is that any change to the configuration requires a hard reset (via reset button) or powercycle. The reason for this is that a software reset (pressing reboot in the UI) doesn't properly reset the I2S peripheral of the ESP32 and leaves it in a disfunctional state. ==== You can see the whole thread of issues with the microphone and latest version here: github.com/atuline/WLED/issues/162 That may also be why I'm not experiencing the same thing... I haven't upgraded any of my devices to this version. You might consider dropping back to the 0.13.0-b4 version (if you are running -b6), where the issue didn't exist, until they get the microphone issues sorted out.

[@toddward4756]

@@ResinChemTech Thanks for feedback, i'm going back into it.

[@toddward4756]

@@ResinChemTech Hey, that was the problem. I tried version 0.13.0-b4 and it is working perfectly. Sound reactive with 4 push buttons for 12 preset. :)

[@briscolafox]

The esp32 is compatible with alexa or i need to add something to the module board?

[@ResinChemTech]

WLED has Alexa integration, so it doesn't really matter whether you are using the ESP8266 or ESP32 (it's the firmware you are running on the board... and not the board itself that provides compatibility). You have to enable it in the WLED settings. You can find more info on how to use WLED with Alexa on the WLED wiki. I haven't done Alexa integration myself, as we are a Google Home house and all of our integrations with WLED are done through Home Assistant.

[@cimen9793]

hi, can I use max4466 microphone witouth solderin? with esp32 ?

[@ResinChemTech]

You should be able to do that if you want to mount everything on breadboards and use something like Dupont connectors or breadboard jumpers to make all the connections. I create almost all my projects on breadboards first, without soldering, to test them before I create the final soldered version. This assumes that the devices you want to connect (like the microphone and ESP) already have pins. Otherwise, you will need to either solder pins onto the boards or find another way to make a reliable electrical connection. Hot glue can work in a pinch, but I sure wouldn't recommend that for something permanent... it would be simply for testing.

[@cimen9793]

thank you for answering :) My leds ws2815 5 meter 30 watts, 12v, led/m 60 what amper or watt power supply should I use? how can I calculate?

[@ResinChemTech]

I use the maximum amps per pixel when on full bright white and then multiply by the total number of pixels. For 5V WS2812b, I use 0.060A (or 60 milliamps) per pixel. So, if I have 300 pixels, that's 300 x 0.06 for a total amps of 18A needed. I always round up to assure I'm not maxing out the power supply, so I'd use a 5V 20A power supply. Now, 12V LEDs use less amps per pixel. I don't do a lot with 12V LEDs, but I believe they are around 0.015A (15 milliamps) per pixel. So, using the same calculation, if you have 300 pixels, 300 x 0.015 = 4.5A. So, you'd want at least a 12V 5A power supply (10A might be better, although most colors and effects use far less wattage that full white). Again, I don't use a lot of 12V LEDs, so I recommend that you check out Quindor's QuinLED site where he shows the actual power measurements for all sorts of different LED types, both 5V and 12V: quinled.info/2020/03/12/digital-led-power-usage/ I hope that information is helpful.

[@cimen9793]

@@ResinChemTech thank you so much for the link and helps. but I did not understand anything from link :( I checked ws2815 leds per meter 60 side. but not written which power suply should I use. how many watts or amper power supply should I need about.

[@ResinChemTech]

As I mentioned, you need to find the specifications or rating for your particular LED strip. Find the maximum current draw (in amps or milliamps) for each pixel. I do not know what it is for WS2815... you need to find that on your own, and the link I gave you has that information. Once you have the amps/milliamps per pixel, you multiple that by the total number of pixels you will be using. That will give you the total amps required for your LED strip or planned install. You need to use a power supply that can provide at least that many amps or more. For example, WS2812b can draw up to 0.06A per pixel. I just multiple that by the number of pixels to get the amps needed. You just need to find the amp draw for WS2815 and do the same calculation.

[@SmartDevX]

How can I get that Web interface Code to upload ESP32??

[@ResinChemTech]

I am using WLED as the firmware in this video. It is not my firmware, but you can find all information including how to download and flash, from the official WLED web site here: kno.wled.ge/

[@5VoltChannel]

Nice 👍👍

[@Weeklygamesvaibhav]

Can i make it without logic level shifter?

[@ResinChemTech]

Yes... as long as you keep the wiring run between the controller and start of the LEDs relatively short. Of course if you have flickering issues or the effects don't work correctly, this is almost always due to low voltage on the signal line. I have a video that discusses the logic level shifter and shows what can potentially happen if you choose to omit it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h2rQfZyqi915acU

[@danny7902]

Do you know if WLED works with ESP32-S3 N32R8 ?

[@ResinChemTech]

I haven't personally tried it, but I don't know of any reason why it wouldn't work. You can find a list of 'officially' supported hardware for WLED at: kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/

[@mameapl65]

This is like a different language to me that I don’t understand but I need to… have an idea to build something for my wife but I’m lost. This is amazing

[@WhiteError37]

We don't have to use ledfx to get sound reactive LEDs working!!!!!! 🔥🔥🔥

[@user-sz1gn4pu8g]

does m5stack work with wled?

[@ResinChemTech]

I haven't used that, but you can find a list of officially supported hardware for WLED at: kno.wled.ge/basics/compatible-hardware/

[@cyberkyv]

Yes it works 100%, my current test is with an M5StickC. I did the installation through the Wled website without any problem, the application sees it as an ESP32 V3. All the functions work 100%, I'm about to try the WLed option with sound reaction, to see if it works with the internal mic that the M5StickC has.

[@JasperTielen]

Should also try swapping the microphone

[@u2bist]

Shouldn't the segments be 0-99 and 100-199? If one ends at 100 and the other starts at 100 they overlap.

[@ResinChemTech]

It seems a bit counterintuitive, but that's the way WLED is setup. According to the official site documentation: "Segment 0 has a Start LED of 0 and a Stop LED equal to the LED Count you defined in Configuration, LED Preferences. _The Stop LED is not included in the Segment_." So the ending LED number of the first segment will always be the starting LED number of the next segment, without any overlap. That has confused more than one person, but how I am showing it in the video is the proper way for how WLED treats the segments.

[@loay9277]

nice can you give me the code for esp32 ?

[@ResinChemTech]

github.com/Aircoookie/WLED

[@hexczzzz]

hi new fan from Philippines can you make a tut about how to make a bluetooth deauther using esp32:'), sorry for poor eng

[@Jon-Sen]

Dami tutorial lods sa google tulad ng deauther at marauder for esp32 na wifi and Bluetooth gamit

[@joelrggizmo1373]

You're doing a good job so far but you shouldn't be putting your boards on carpet. You should have a static Matt. You shouldn't have your circuit boards on the carpet you'll get static and probably mess up the chip. You should have a static mat in place.

[@hendrikleyn6798]

This can quickly turn into a waste of time. My ESP32 do not have an AO or #36 pin...? Any other assignable pins...? It is the latest ESP32 as there are a few with different pin references.....anyone willing to assist...?

[@ResinChemTech]

This is because up to 18 different pins can be used for analog to digital on the ESP32... while the ESP8266 only has one (the A0 pin). The ESP32 in general has much more flexibility in pin usage and many can be defined for different purposes... where the ESP8266 has much less flexibility. I'd recommend taking a look at this article to learn more about the ESP32 pinouts: randomnerdtutorials.com/esp32-pinout-reference-gpios/

[@hendrikleyn6798]

@@ResinChemTech ... hugely appreciated!. Not giving up yet....my 8266 works 100%( but no SR of course..) Sorry to be a pain in the butt....👃

[@ResinChemTech]

No problem! There only just so much I can cover in a video (unless I make it two hours long!)... and only so much help I can offer in the KZbin comments. The nice thing with WLED (SR or not) and the ESP32, you can use just about any pin (there are some exceptions which are covered in that link.. I use that same link all the time) and you just tell WLED which pins you are using for what. No offense taken... good luck with your project.

[@MaxxJagX]

Overall, the ESP32 is better. But it's also more expensive, not by that much but depends on use-case.

[@ResinChemTech]

Oh.. I agree that the ESP32 is "better". But many people tend to want to use the ESP32 when the ESP8266 is fine for the job. And today, the ESP32 isn't nearly as more expensive than the ESP8266 as when I made this video. At the time, an ESP32 was about 3x more expensive. Nowadays it is a little less than 2x the cost (depending on how many you buy.. and where). So, using an ESP32 isn't nearly as costly today as when this video was made. But you are correct that it is somewhat use-case dependent. And of course, anyone is free to use whatever device they like for their own DIY project. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment.

[@triadnlphotography1313]

Use a microphone inmp441 its less noice

[@JB-fh1bb]

It seems very niche, but one unmentioned reason I use ESP32 over ESP8266 is for analog LEDs: 5mm, 3mm, and warm white “fairly lights” (my personal fav). The ESP32’s dedicated LED PWM(s!) run at 300kHz (40MHz if you only want 1 bit of resolution, but who wants 1bit) and means that even at lowest brightness they don’t flicker on camera. It’s also very likely that you don’t see them flicker in person. I’m v.sensitive to flicker, and I rarely see it at my standard setting of 25kHz (if I were coding C, I’d go for 300kHz, but many microcontroller firmwares don’t plan for people to go that high).

[@ResinChemTech]

Thanks! I haven't done much with those LEDs, but I would like to mess around with the fairy lights at some point. Add it to the long (and growing) list of things I need to learn about!

[@JB-fh1bb]

@@ResinChemTech You can get your feet wet by just taking a string that uses a CR2032 battery, cutting off the battery, connecting positive to a GPIO, and negative to ground. You then go in to WLED > Hardware and set that GPIO to “PWM White”.

[@tortysoft]

Thanks for this adult informative and detailed runt hough of all these options. Jokes are nice, but not when I want to rewatch something 🙂

[@ResinChemTech]

You're welcome! I've been told on more than one occasion that I need to be "more entertaining" and less stiff when on camera. It's something that I'm still working on. But I get what you are saying.... and I have an idea of a couple of KZbinrs you might be referring to! I think there is a fine line between being "entertaining" and being annoying... especially in a how-to video. I appreciate the feedback!

[@JB-fh1bb]

@@ResinChemTech It’s important for all creators to know that there is not one “ideal”. If someone says you need to do X or Y, ask yourself first “do they represent my ideal client/viewer?” I use a lot of ESPs for lighting and personally I don’t care about “entertaining”. I care about clarity of recording, clarity of concepts, and thoroughness, and you’ve passed all three of those. Am I your ideal viewer? 🤷‍♀️That’s for you to say ☺️

[@OutOfNameIdeas2]

power consumption...

[@DavidCousins]

Music was bad, but if you mixed your voice louder, over the music, I could have tolerated your message easier. I just couldn't hear your voice.

[@ResinChemTech]

I don't disagree about the music! It would have been much better if I could have used some of the music that I tested with, but you can't use any music subject to copyright, so I was pretty much limited to the KZbin 'free' music selections. And sorry about the mixing level. I'm constantly learning and have just started using new software that gives me better audio mixing capabilities, so hopefully I can avoid these kind of issues in the future. But I do appreciate the feedback as it does help me make better content.

[@AccordEONone]

I will buy and install WLEDs at home if they can be managed by KNX.

[@ryan-ue2vr]

Just be careful when buying the 8266 boards they are still making the knock off wemos boards that have the wrong voltage regulator on them and they will shut off all the time and there basically useless.

[@ResinChemTech]

Agreed! I've gotten a hold of a few knock-off/cheaply made components over time. In fact, I had a set of 5 ESP32's where only 2 of them would even flash. I try to keep track of those sellers where I've had good luck and will return to them consistently... even if it costs a few cents more. I try to only recommend those products/sellers that I've personally used and have had good luck with. But even then, a bad board will slip through every now and then. Thanks for watching... and the heads-up!

[@TheOldKid]

Got my max 9814 connected. Gain and vdd to 3 3, gnd to gnd and out to vp (gpio36 i believe), downloaded Sr wled. I have all new Sr features except no reaction to sound. Bad mic or is there a setting in configuration I need to complete?

[@ResinChemTech]

A couple of things come to mind. I think the newer versions may require you to define the pin being used (although I think the default is GPIO36... but worth checking). Also assure you've played with the gain and squelch settings under the sound settings. You might also check out the sound reactive wiki regarding mic choices ( github.com/atuline/WLED/wiki/Analog-Audio-Input-Options ). There's also a pretty good page there for what to do if it's "not working". Let me know what you find. I'm running a pretty old version (before it was offered via the web installer), so I'm sure there have been some changes since I last looked.

[@northstar5405]

Does it require level shifter to operate 4 channels outputs?. (I like to run 4 independent led strips from single esp32). Thank you.

[@ResinChemTech]

If you are using 4 different GPIO pins on the ESP32 for your signal to the 4 different LED strips, then yes. Each GPIO pin would be putting out 3.3V and you would want to shift that to 5V for the best, most reliable signal. Note that the shifter I show in this video is a four-channel shifter, but you can get them in larger sizes with more channels if needed. Just take your output signal from one GPIO pin and hook it up to LV1 and the outgoing wire to that LED strip to HV1. Then repeat with LV2-4 and HV2-4 for the other three channels. Since each channel is "separate" just be sure to use the same channel on both the LV and HV side for the particular pin/LED strip you want to control on that pin.

[@northstar5405]

@@ResinChemTech thank you sir.

[@landondavid5773]

The music is great what you talking about. Much better than most of the copyright free stuff out there that makes me want to rip my hair out hahaha