Essential (and obscure) 3D printing tools and spares

[@BigBlack81]

THIS is the sort of content that we need just as much as others.

[@jon9947]

I kinda thought this was all common sense stuff and mostly the kind of tools every guy has laying around with or without a 3d printer. Myself personally I dont want to see too much content like this, but I do agree that a video here and there like this is great as everyone has a different skill level.

[@S0Fr3shThisKid]

@@jon9947 I didn't have a toothbrush in my toolkit initially

[@lefgia]

Yeah, because having a quality allen key set should definatelly be on the top of everyone's list of essentials for 3d printing..

[@paulr4279]

Hey, Micheal. Pretty much all covered there, but I will add that I have a infrared thermometer gun just to keep check on motor temps etc and to confirm thermistors are accurate. Cheers.

[@MakersMuse]

I've had a wiha ball head allen key screwdriver since 2008 and it's outlasted every single one supplied with printers. Sometimes a little more $ really is worth it on ... daily drivers lol

[@-robo-]

I bought an extra set, and cut of the elbow. Then printed handles. Once I buy a mini screwdriver, I will print an adapter. I really like straight he's wrenches.

[@franksimon8375]

Ouch

[@horrorhotel46290]

What the hell do you need to do to break an allen key below size 2 O.o

[@amicloud_yt]

@@horrorhotel46290 it's not so much "breaking" it as it is the ends rounding off

[@dialedmedia_]

I have some Snap-On T-Handle hex drivers and they're awesome, very pricey but I had them from a past job. Might make a thingiverse holder for it when my Ender 3 v2 comes in.

[@UtubeUsername123545]

A good set of wire brushes? Nylon, brass, and SS ... great for cleaning nozzles or finishing parts.

[@sammy123999]

yeah probably the single best tool for the price I have gotten.

[@FlameRat_YehLon]

Probably not as useful nowadays and especially not when for specific workflows. Some nozzle come with non stick coatings and if there's a (solvent dipping) smoothing process there's usually no string left after smoothing is done.

[@briguy9915]

I would also recommend a pair or two of tweezers in your tool kit. They help pull wisps of filament off your print when you are starting, or pull some of the oozing filament out of the nozzle when you're starting or doing a filament layer change. They are also necessary for soldering, and I use mine instead of a pick to pop out wires from JST connectors.

[@iantaylor1341]

Digital kitchen scales are handy to use to weigh how much filament you have left on the spool. Weigh an empty spool and subtract. Good to know after slicing if you have to swap out filament or not (especially for overnight prints)

[@slickstretch6391]

Just make sure they actually use the same spool. I've seen many different spool designs.

[@AndreasA.S.]

acupuncture needles. and possibly a plastic blade scraping tool (uses plastic instead of metal)

[@BigEpinstriping]

I have a collection of plastic putty knives/scrapers; Great for removing prints from glass print beds/painter's tape. get one started on the edge and tap it under the print lightly with a small hammer or rubber handle of a screwdriver. They're also great when applying painter's tape to a print bed. Painter's tape is also great for securing loose ends of filament spools; marking off areas to be drilled/cut, etc. it can also be wrapped over sharper scrapers and tools to prevent damaging surfaces. Even if you don't use it as a print surface anymore, having a roll of blue painter's tape is a must. Same goes for kapton tape; good for securing wires on hotends/heatbeds and shielding components on mainboards.

[@Sebazzz1991]

> acupuncture needles And for the ignorant people reading this: it is not about releasing any mental of physical stress buildup during your 3d printing hobby (although it would probably work for that too) - but rather to clean any clogs from your nozzles.

[@haenselundgretel654]

Hihi He said "nuts" Naaaa. Cheers mate for all the valuable videos and the good pieces of advice! Thousands of people around the world appreciate this a lot!

[@-robo-]

It takes a lot of balls to laugh at the "nuts" comment.

[@vandit6354]

This is exactly what happened to me. I bought an Ender 3 to give me something to do during lockdown. Now I have three shelves crammed with filaments and I'm tripping over all the new tools, cables, and boxes of spares and upgrades!

[@Benjamin_Reese]

Me too! I couldn't go anywhere for my vacation time in June so I bought an Ender 5 with the money. "Suffering" through the same hazards as you, upgrades, tools, filaments, boxes! Just now starting to figure out how to organize it all.

[@mrclown7469]

Most removable screwdriver bits (@2:45) are 6.5mm, which is the same size as the small stock Creality nozzles (@3:38). So if you don't have anything else handy, a bit driver will do a fine job of nozzle removal and installation.

[@AsiAzzy]

unfortunatly bit drivers go imperial and are 1/4"=6,35mm.. with the tolerances and slop may be 6.4mm.. maybe the lesser quality drivers have closer to 6.5mm

[@eleanorhathaway927]

Thanks for that thats handy to know.

[@BeepDog]

I really appreciate the parts list, because finding decent quality tools has been a crapshoot without reviews. Thanks!

[@MrNlce30]

You forgot the kettle and your favourite mug. Tea, coffee or booze is optional. Great video. Keep up the good work.

[@dedogster]

I have a small fridge in my shop!

[@the-potato-warrior]

I like this guy because he isn’t a generic, stereotypical nerd that most channels are... Just seems like a normal dude

[@GrandpasPlace]

On the topic of sanding and finishing. I've found that emery boards (also called nail files) come in 80/100/180/240 grit. They are great for sanding small parts and sanding tight spaces. Plus they are cheap costing around $9 for 50. I keep a 100/180 near the printer for removing those minor imperfections that occasionally show up in a print.

[@Bob_Dub]

@ 20:43 I've always found credit cards good for removing skirts, too, and the fancier the card (ie gold, platinum, black titanium) and the higher the credit limit, the more easily it removes the skirts. I have friends who met their current GF's that way. :P

[@whyjerrywhy]

Haha that's was funny

[@ILEFTCAPS0N]

A deburring tool is one of the first tools I got for my printer and it is so satisfying removing a long ribbon of material and leaving it smooth and shiny.

[@Numenor7]

A guitar string is great for cleaning out the nozzle

[@travismiller5548]

Thanks, epic tip! # of guitar stores > acupuncture stores LoL

[@bernardcatt8885]

The one tool I use, at least almost every second print, is a bamboo skewer. It is great removing any filament 'dags' that may attach themselves to the print nozzle, especially on first layers when you can't easliy reach in.

[@snelinternet4654]

Great video! Extra tips: fuses (for mainboard and socket) and nozzles 😉

[@Know-Way]

Another great video! Some other tools I'd recommend... Forceps/Hemostats - works as small needle-nose pliers, tiny vice-grips, tweezers. Strait and curved are great. very useful for holding wires/parts when soldering, either for placement or because the parts get too hot to hold. Easily one of my most used tools. Edit: Just thought of another... Drop something down a deep hole or slot? Consider Alligator Forceps. Phillips screw holder/starter - Indispensable when you need to start a stainless-steel (non-magnetic) or any screw in a place your fingers can't reach. A telescopic magnetic pick-up/retrieving tool. The flexible ones can be useful too, but sometimes they flex too much allowing the magnet to swing and grab things you don't want it too. Acid brushes - A thousand and one uses. Trim the bristles short with scissors and you have a long handle mini scrub-brush. Use to paint on acetone to solvent weld PLA. I like the brushes used for gun cleaning. Like an upgraded toothbrush stiffer bristles on one end of the handle and a single row of short stiff bristles on the other. I also like nut-driver over socket/ratchet most of the time. Thanks for the great content. Going to get a deburing tool. Don't have one yet.

[@apinakapinastorba]

Those Bondhus allen keys are really good, I got a set that’s already decades old and they’re all still fine after all that use.

[@Nor1MAL]

You forgot to include a "magic smoke" re-filler. You know, when you overvolt the stepper motors that the magic smoke gets released, and only way to fix them is to refill them ;P

[@ChrisHeerschap]

Where can I order industrial sizes of that? Does it work on computers? _asking for a friend_

[@donutninja13]

@@ChrisHeerschap yea I’m looking for a couple of pallets of this stuff

[@ChrisHeerschap]

@@donutninja13 TIL that IBM made a magic smoke refill kit. I am now very sad that I did not employee purchase a bunch while I worked there. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_smoke

[@exiostar]

Or your brand new silent mainboard....

[@SeanCMonahan]

It's stocked on the shelf next to the turn signal fluid down at the hardware store near me.

[@sealightube333]

For sound level meter you can use your mobile phone with a dedicated app, it not that accurate, but it can be good for comparative measurements.

[@Guardian_Arias]

Waxed nylon string is neat, I use it for all cable management jobs and a spool will last years plus it eliminates the chances of the cable ties snagging on things or scratching you on a poorly cut tail.

[@travismiller5548]

That stuff IS neat, haven't had a roll in a while, need a new one. The synthetic sinew stuff... weird, but so good.

[@chrissavage5966]

I've had a pair of good quality, curved nose arterial forceps in my tool case for decades. Incredibly useful for working in awkward tight spaces.

[@vasiliynkudryavtsev]

I use sharpened obsolete credit card as a scrapper. I print on glass (ultrabase) and don't want to damage it.

[@NotWorkingAtAll]

I've found that a nice sharp chisel really helps clean up a rough surface . It lets you remove blobs without gouging. I also find a small set of files helps with different faces or curves.

[@SimiTravels]

well if this list is not PERFECT... i dunno what perfect would be !! amazing !!

[@artiem5262]

Wire -- with Teflon insulation! Particularly for the heavier wire, such as runs to bed heaters or internally between the psu and the controller board -- insulation on "normal" wire deforms or melts at fairly low temperatures, where Teflon insulation keeps going. A little more expensive, but a lot more safe!

[@RobertoD91]

the Metric screw measuring device print is awesome! and obviously also the video XD

[@RobertoD91]

error 404 on thingiverse found this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4560219

[@jamesrguk]

Great video as always. I would also recomend heat sensor fire alarms. I have heat sensor fire alarms in each of my printer cabinets and above those not in cabinets. These are wirelessly linked to the house fire alarm so if things get too hot out in the studio (garage) we instantly know about it in the house which is essential, especially with the printers running through the night. A touch more expensive than standard stand alone smoke alarms, but worth the little extra for peice of mind. No different to setting up any other stand alone battery smoke alarm and available from numerous places online, you typicallyhave a kit with 1 optical alarm (smoke alarm) and 1 heat alarm.

[@gizmobowen]

One thing I found handy is an inexpensive fishing tackle box. It has a lot of compartments to keep things organized and is very easy to move around if needed. I also have magnetic tool bars bolted to my printer enclosures. That way I can keep a set of allen keys and side cutters at hand with each printer. Oh, I also use glue stick for bed adhesion, so I have plenty of those laying around. Buy them when school starts and you can really get a good deal.

[@polmenya2040]

3d pen is basically a must-have. both for sketchy repairs and part joining.

[@andrewadams9686]

Cheap sanding sticks or fingernail files are great! They bend a bit and you can cut them up to really get into specific spots!

[@Alx2672]

Hook pick, 90° pick, as well as an awl/reamer. Punch is also handy . I've used clamps and mini portable vise too. Great list, great comments!

[@dedogster]

A couple of tools that I have added to my "kit" are some small brass and steel brushes and a set of small metric taps, theas make cleaning up holes for screws easy and you thread the hole at the same tine!

[@techsavvyhero]

Excellent video, Michael! Wish I had seen this years ago when I first started 3D Printing. Regardless, well assembled video full of golden nuggets. You rock!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

A set of step bits is handy. They aren't as good for thicker parts, but they also don't snag plastic like twist bits.

[@travismiller5548]

My favorite deburring tool... well, if it's a round hole.

[@ChrisHeerschap]

For a metal rod that's around the size of filament, a bicycle spoke can be gotten in a 1.8mm diameter which is almost exactly the 1.75mm diameter of filament. I grind a point roughly the angle of the inside of the nozzle and that can clear almost everything out of the nozzle. You can usually get a spare/scrap spoke from any bike shop.

[@Cyromantik]

Great list! I also enjoyed the subtle humor, thank you!

[@avocadochoe]

YES. I've been loosing so many of my tools and my god trying to compile a list like this is hard. Much appreciated.

[@trevorplaysguitar]

When I was using a glass bed, I found that vision miner’s nanopolymer adhesive was a wonder product. I kept a small spritzer with some of that diluted with isopropyl alcohol and would spray the bed as needed, then spread it with a 4” paint brush

[@grantbutcher5455]

Your videos are awesome, I have a new ( still in the box, gotta wait until Christmas day) Creality 6 SE and I have been watching all of your vids so that I stand a better chance at getting this new hobby figured out. Thank you so much and keep up the good work

[@carbide1968]

Great video. I use everything you mention and new people will need it all. As far as a dial indicator i prefer a non digital and since creality uses a metal hotend cover i just glued magnets to the back of the indicator. When i level i just stick it to the metal cover and i get a level bed within a thousands of a inch pretty fast.

[@Guardian_Arias]

If you use a nut on the adjustment screws as a jam nut it will keep the adjustment knob from backing out and seriously extending the bed level longevity

[@evanbooth1441]

I'm planning on buying a printer in the near future, and your videos have been *immensely* helpful.

[@Powertampa]

The greatest tool to have on hand at all times is: Patience Some things need to be carefully looked at and planned, rushing can lead to all sorts of disasters, have patience, make a plan and check you have all you need before beginning work.

[@Comm0ut]

Shaviv and similar deburring tools are wonderful. Every mechanic should have one, machinists already do, and they terrific for plastic.

[@SeabornNomad]

You make awesome videos and software! More people should be watching this.

[@andrewowens5653]

A few good quality machinist squares come in handy to square up your printer. Because we all know sometimes things don't come out of the factory the way they're supposed to be. For the ultimate in high quality modifications, I recommend a Sherline lathe and mill for the desktop.

[@XxTWMLxX]

Digital scale for measuring filament left on roll. Weigh a empty roll then subtract that from the roll your checking. I have one that is 1g to 5000g. Works well. Can even be used to check over extrusion or if your slicer is estimating filament correctly.

[@larrykent196]

Thanks for the video, you covered it all. I invested in a pair of cut resistant gloves after I more than once slipped with the knife, just wanted to mention it. Best of luck to you. Cheers!

[@jedunkan]

SCIGRIP Weld-on 16 Fast Set Acrylic Solvent Cement. I went through more than a few types of glue for PLA and this works the best.

[@Audio_Simon]

I want to recommend so strongly the Wera Hex Plus keys. I stopped stripping small hex screws with these. They have a special shape that improves contact area. SO worth the money!!

[@Audio_Simon]

P.S. 'Parallel jaw' pliers are great for grabbing nuts. Just google 'em.

[@andreVE4BK]

Great instructive video. For heat shrink, I use a small hobby heat gun shaped like a cylinder instead of a naked flame. Much safer.

[@DanielDroegeShow]

I tend to cut into my parts too much with the deburring tool when working with PLA. I have a bearing scraper with a triangular shape blade that does great on leftover supports, holes, and edges. It is hard to remove parts with a raft unless I wait for the bed to cool down for 15 minutes. I put a flathead against the raft and hit it once with a thwack-printed hammer and it pops off with ease.

[@SafetyDan101]

I've taken to using cut resistant gloves during my post processing. It makes my life a million times better, though it can be a tad awkward.

[@ebonyblack4563]

For after print clean up I've found a nail care set to be ideal. Just a 'buff' block can have multiple levels of grit and sometimes sides that can even shine the smoothed plastic. A full set can include great tools for removing small imperfections or print artifects, things like cuticle removers, needle nosed scissors, and even basic nail clippers of various sizes can save a lot of hassle trying to find the right set of snips to fit into tiny spaces. Some sets include smooth edged tools that can help remove prints and pry off things like brims or rafts. Also tweezers can be remarkably sturdy and cheap to replace when they do get bent, making support removal much easier for some projects.

[@VictorGallagherCarvings]

I was able to get many of the tools I needed by purchasing two different 3D printer maintenance kits from Amazon.

[@weeksracing]

I use a flat trim removal tool with some tape on the end to wipe the nozzle clean whilst the hot end is heating up. Build up on the side of the nozzle can cause stringing and other issues on the most important layer 1. Best to keep your nozzle clean. Also any bits of filament sticking out will affect your Z distance when levelling.

[@crawlerin]

Great video, bookmarking for countless threads of “I am waiting for my 3D printer to arrive, what tools or spare parts should I get? Re: screwdrivers and torque - that hole in the handle ... is there not only for hanging it. Stick another screwdriver or anything with metal rod through it and use as a lever.

[@stuartmurphy5138]

Thank you so much, the CR10 max was doing my head in to level but the blocks is a perfect simeple idea. Thank you

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

Band-aids!!!!!!!!! I can't count how many times I sliced into myself with that spatula/scraper or just the supports themselves!

[@maaboo7379]

Soldering mat keeps your desk clean and undamaged. Cutting mat (I have 9Sea) helps not only with cutting things, but also measuring, especially rounded corners. Also a cheap food dryer has to be mentioned to dry your filament (and also tomatoes and mushrooms). Also, you could use nylon and acrylic nuts, screws, washers and spacers instead of metal. They have white, transparent and black variations which helps you with make your printer stylsh. But don't use them on heavy loaded parts (like hotend or Z-carriage). Also I have a pyrometer (and planning to buy bolometric pyrometer). Digital scales (actually three with different resolutions, one is for models and has 0.1g, other for other things and scales with hook to test pritned parts for toughness). Steel mug for boiling nozzles after plastic burning. Also I wash things in it using solvents. A special brushes (not a toothbrush) which have hard plastic and brass bristle.

[@speedhump231]

Thank you so much for this. I will be getting spares for my Ender 3 pro and this list will save me time and worry about the right ones to get.

[@mikemike7001]

Using the J-shaped wire to push stuck or broken-off filament through the hotend is a great tip if you can find a stiff enough wire of the right diameter. I have found that my smallest screwdriver-handled ball-end hex drivers work perfectly. Far easier than disassembling the hotend or attempting to clear a clog with an acupuncture needle.

[@studiolucephotography8484]

love the Bunnings drawers.

[@TheRanxerox]

I used square nuts when assembling my anet a8. They fit the nut slots better and don't fall out as easily as hex nuts.

[@ianide2480]

You missed the brass wire brush for cleaning schmuck off the nozzle. Just buy a pack of the ones that are roughly tooth brush size, pretty cheap at most hardware stores.

[@elvinhaak]

Not soo good for copper or bronze nozzles because they can really damage the end of the nozzle quite quickly introducing artafacts in your prints.

[@ianide2480]

@@elvinhaak I used to buy nozzles quite often. I switched to a hardened steel nozzle about a year and a half ago, haven't purchased a nozzle since. I don't even know the amount of money and time I wasted on brass nozzles, I am certain that it was at least 5x the amount I paid for a single hardened steel nozzle. Lets not forget the time and filament wasted discovering that the old brass nozzle was worn out. Perhaps this would be different if I only printed standard PLA or PETG

[@elvinhaak]

@@ianide2480 Yes, it can be really worth it in some cases. I regulary swap nozzles if there are some problems and also because I change size of the nozzle between i.e. .2, .4 and .8 mm. I have hardenend nozzles but also bronze and bronze are 'one way' after some prints many times with a swap. A bag of 20 costs about 3 -5 $. And mostly I print PETG and some PLA. But sometimes with fillers and it is easy to swap the nozzle when switching size and materials. Cleaning the brazz ones with a brass wire brush kills them real fast.

[@gregorynewell12]

Thumbwheel ratchet is a must for changing nozzles.

[@LeftyPencil]

A little (inspection) mirror is handy too 14:30 of you heat the ends of this sleeve it can prevent fraying. Can bend it into it self to protect the ends too

[@-robo-]

A desktop (mini) vice. A tap and die set. Sure a screw will make do, but not as clean. Did he mention scissors? I have three sizes. And don't forget the hemostats. I have two sizes. I want to get a 3D pen for attaching and/or repairing prints.

[@piratxero]

If you are looking to buy a new part or upgrade, look for kits htat might include some other common parts. I was going to upgrade my bed springs, and i found a kit for $1-2 more that included silicone hot end covers, and some extra PTFE tubing.

[@farmertom2574]

The dial gauge at 7:30 can be skipped if you have the digital caliper mentioned in the tip previous to that. Extend the caliper, mount it square like you would with the dial gauge, then zero the caliper before making your motor movements. I would recommend printing a little foot for the end of the caliper to avoid damage to the print bed, though!

[@garysickler2179]

A small stainless or brass brush i great for cleaning up the hotend/nozzle if it gets hard to remove filament baked on it

[@Duane_A]

Solder tip cleaner => vienna can + coarse brass sponge. Brass sponges (aka: brass wool) are commonly available in the cleaning section of a department store. After washing the can, I added sand + 2-part epoxy to the bottom of the can, then an additional layer of epoxy to protect the tip from the sand. The extra mass helps prevent it from tipping over. It's also good to have chemical tip cleaner for end-of-day cleaning.

[@ChrisHeerschap]

Forget cheap pliers and especially adjustable wrenches. Get one set of Knipex Pliers Wrench and be done. The 125mm or 150mm size is perfect for use on 3D printers - smooth parallel jaws that get more secure as you squeeze them to turn or hold the piece in question. Replaces many of the tools shown which makes their slightly higher price totally worth it.

[@Crypt1cmyst1c]

if you don't buy printers constantly and want to have cutters all around, a great alternative is toenail clippers. they're useful for most of the same things as side cutters.

[@Audio_Simon]

Another cool thing - fire extinguisher ball! Saw Winston Moy had one mounted in his CNC enclosure.

[@The52brandon]

While calipers are super handy - and probably the measuring tool that I use most - but it's more of a mid to mid-high accuracy (the mid-high if you spring for the Mitutoyo), with micrometers being the common high accuracy option, with indicators, test indicators, depth gauges, thickness gauges, etc. occupying the lesser known spots in that high-accuracy range. Typically when it comes to these tools, you get what you pay for (though there are always those up-and-coming manufacturers that aren't yet popular enough to charge what they're worth). One great way to save some $ is to get tools that connect to smartphones when possible. For example a FLIR thermal camera and an endoscope off the top of my head - you can also download apps that use sensors already built into the phone to do the work of other tools like decibel meters - and I'm sure I'm forgetting plenty in both categories. These tools are incredibly convenient and since they use the processing power of your phone as well as the display, they're much cheaper. On top of that, they're often better quality than their standalone counterparts as phones usually have high quality displays and processors capable of handling a lot more than these tools typically require, not to mention that with the ability to connect to WiFi and BT, you can often generate reports/graphs with the tools plus you'll usually get more frequent firmware updates. I bought a phone to keep as a dedicated shop phone for these uses so I don't put too much stress on it and get poor results - and the performance I've gotten has been fantastic. I'm able to do way more than I could if I bought all standalone tools - and it cost me literally pennies on the dollar compared to inferior standalone tools... It's a good investment IMO. Plus, then you've got a digital camera, camcorder, a flashlight, and you can find many useful calculators and guides on the market (whether Android or Apple) making it all the more useful around the shop. It's something that I wish I did earlier and IMO one of - if not THE - best way to increase productivity by the greatest margin for the lowest cost

[@karipenttila2655]

NB isopropyl alcohol can be used as release agent of the print. Try it, once you have a corner up a bit using rubbing alcohol it goes under the print and helps to pop it out.

[@anthonyrich1592]

Heh, I thought I was the only one that used wooden blocks for levelling printers. One of my printers is a Core-XY which has seperate stepper motors driving the dual z-axis lead screws. Sometimes pulling a print off the heated bed causes one of the lead screws to shift, wooden blocks to the rescue. It's become less of a problem since I put a magnetic sheet on the bed.

[@IAMSatisfied]

A level and speed square often come in handy.

[@GandalfTheGreyt3791]

yeah, that thing about blobs of death on the hotend happend to me in december while printing something a friend asked me to make them. i managed to get the filament off, but whenever i turned on the printer, it started screaming. i ended up buying new thermistor, and that seemed to fix it. havent run a PID tune yet, but im moving in a few weeks, then a second one of that showed up. good idea to have spares then.

[@kazolar]

Tweezers, angled ones, different types. A nice to have a torque ratchet -- especially for e3d hotends which when you get into hardened nozzles require a specific torque or you'll either break something or it will leak.

[@notsonominal]

Ceramic slotted driver might save a board if something slips (while tuning pots)

[@armoth6958]

Don't know if this was already posted but very important spare parts are the 3D printed parts your printer uses.. especially parts exposed to high temp and stress. I even suggest printing these as your first prints (after you have properly calibrated of course)

[@martinpirringer8055]

For tightening Nozzles I use a torque wrench. And if you got a driver kit - make sure it got pozi-driv bits - for example the screws on the original E3D fan are pozi-driv. Magnifier comes in handy too.

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

Thank you for a nice, informative video. Always learn something when watching your videos.

[@jstro-hobbytech]

I'd like to apologize for my trolling on another video. I am deeply sorry. I have mental illness and was having a really bad day. That is still no excuse. I find your videos amongst the best I've watched trying to learn about 3d printing.

[@spikekent]

Great advice and reference Michael. I'm happy to say I have everything in your video and more. However, my organisation of it all is still a work in progress. Note to self ** Must try harder **

[@msteele999]

Good to go back to basics!

[@mizudori6211]

For all of you RC car peeps out there, using your existing hex driver set (I have a Tamiya TRF suite) works wonders for all the m2/M3/M4 bolts and grub screws

[@SlowCuberThirstix]

I love the metal rod idea. Sometimes before I upgraded to direct drive, my bmg would get stuck during filament change on a filament blob. Id have to disassemble the extruder to get rid of it. Now in direct drive I fear it as it would mean a lot of disassembly, but a metal rod would be perfect for that

[@79DJB]

T- handles instead of keys, I've just switched over after 25 years of bike building and electronics disassembly. Trim pots should be adjusted with s plastic driver so as not to affect RF, not as noticeable in printers, but i also work with electronics tuning Better to use a heat gun for shrink tube, easier to get into odd areas and won't set fire to surrounding parts. Also plastic scrapers/spatulas used for applying wall filler may be better than an old credit card

[@AsiAzzy]

Torque wrench (even 3d printed ones for a set torque, or handmande ones, or small old beam type ones), and a nicer socket set instead of L allen keys. ( a proper set from a good brand like KS Tools, Yato, Draper, Beta, Tona, Gedore, Facom, IUS, Stahlwille, Hazet - some go for a lot of money, but from yato a nice set of small 1/4 sockets and bits is less than 30$.. I went with KS tools 150$ and goes up to 1/4 to 1/2 drivers and special profiles like E-torx and RIBE along the standard torx allen, hex, 12point, and many others. (i also work on cars).

[@JakeTheBoss-fp7lm]

Heat set inserts. Look them up if you don’t know. They upgrade your ability to print functional items, by being able to use any size bolts and other metal hardware, securely and professionally connected to your prints

[@trentland9341]

For sound level measurement, I personally use the NIOSH Sound Level Meter app on my phone. It’s certainly not the same as a industrial, calibrated SLM that cost $1-3K, however it’s a good alternative to just get an idea of noise levels. Plus, I would trust this app a little bit more than other noise measurement apps out there because it’s developed by the National Institute of Occupational Safety & Health (NIOSH), which is the research body for OSHA. Also, I always keep nitrile gloves on hand - not only for post processing but mainly for removing prints off the bed so I don’t put marks on the PEI sheet. This has actually helped a ton with adhesion.

[@cthulpiss]

Who is the publisher of that particular app in ggl store ?

[@trentland9341]

cthulpiss oh wow, I tried to go back and see who the developer was and just found out it’s only available on the Apple App Store - sorry about that! Their reasoning for only having it on iOS products makes sense though: “iOS devices share common hardware and software architecture that is optimized for audio applications. Therefore, we have been able to verify that the NIOSH SLM app will perform as expected on any iOS device. On the other hand, the Android device marketplace is fragmented among many manufacturers with different requirements and specifications for microphones, audio/signal processing chips, and software tools. As a result, testing and verification of the accuracy and functionality of an Android-based app in our laboratory is not currently possible”.

[@cthulpiss]

@@trentland9341 So..... they just don't have programmers good enough to do the job. A pity. Thanks anyway, man, I am still looking for decent and semi-calibrated sound level meter app.

[@psychomarto]

I recommend to have a ceramic screwdriver for working on the mainboard, as it won´t cause shorts, an dalso a printed small sponge enclosure to keep it stopping the dust right before the extruder. Helps to avoid clogs! Cheers and thanks for the video! PD: Deez Nutz (sorry... I´m seemingly 5 y old... :P )

[@RomanoPRODUCTION]

You may add a thermal imager to check the electronic and the bed, also to check the temperature of the heatsink, the cold end should stay cool

[@cthulpiss]

thermal cameras are quite expensive, especially in 2020 :(