Must Have Tools For 3D Printing

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Sorry for the reupload I had to fix the sound!

[@MattManuel]

Good list of tools. Only two things to add, and these are optional: A mini vacuum to get all those little filament poops out of your printer and a rotary tool (Dremel-style) for sanding and smoothing. Those little drum sanding attachments can be great as an alternative to a deburring tool, just use them at low speed so as not to melt your printed part.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

yeah those are definitely both good additions 😊 I have a mini air blower to clean printers every now and then. I have a dremel but never thought to use it for this. will have to try :) !

[@pulseplayzz8980]

Great to see, that you listen to feedback. The sound is way better now.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Yeah thanks so much for pointing it out in the last video. There was a little error in the sound editing so thing were like half a second off …

[@locorocohui]

been cleaning my beds with ethanol forever, always worked great, HOWEVER since cleaning it with dish soap and a non-abrasive sponge, my bed adhesion significantly increased. so a scrub with some soap every now and then can drastically affect your adhesion! every day use for me still stays ethanol/isopropyl. happy printing, y'all

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Interesting to hear! Maybe I will have to tr my that:)

[@Jerryman38]

I have the same experience of it. Dishwashing soap such as Zalo (Norwegian brand), was a revelation when I first took the the build plate into the kitchen and washed it properly. I guess my large bottle of isopropanol will probably evaporate before it's used up ;-)

[@shadow501pl]

Same for me, ever since I started washing my pei plate with dish soap and hot water I haven't had any issues with bed adhesion. Even with the harder to stick filaments

[@mackobun]

A set of long surgical tongs are super helpful for cleaning up little buggers and arrant blobs of filament while the print is in progress.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Great tip! Thanks 😊

[@jeffwalker7185]

I have a set of dentist tools - they are really hand for clearing out support material in small gaps such as recessed holes or hard to reach parts of a build. You can also use the dentist mirror to inspect awkward areas of the printer. If you regularly remove the hot end, a telescopic magnetic probe is handy for when screws fall at the rear of the printer etc.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

thanks so much! those are great ideas! I now have my mini pliers that also work well for removing small supports

[@SkateSoup]

I finally got a deburring tool and it's been a significant quality of life improvement cleaning up prints. I need to see if left handed tips are available. Fwiw, that ams disconnector tool works great on other printers with bowden tools. I've used it in my Magneto X and X Smart 3 and it's improved the struggle sometimes popping that slippery tubing off when it's stuck in there.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Nice to hear! I think my deburring tips would work from either side.

[@orbitalthrust1526]

CNC-Kitchen has got left handed blades

[@justinraasch3511]

thanks for the tool info. Even if my new T1Pro already comes with glue sticks, wrenches, and other tools, you did a great job, and the wire brush seems handy.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks so much! there's also that one extra tool you could have haha

[@bshagopian]

For the plastic scraper, you can extend the life of the blade by running it across sandpaper on a flat surface (desk, tool box, etc). It’s just like honing a hand planer blade. Use at least 400 grit or higher and keep a stiff angle, don’t roll your wrist and only do it on the beveled side.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks, that's a really good idea :) !

[@Decimus-Magnus]

Locking forceps are also great. They're like miniature vice grips. A decent headlamp is extremely useful when you need to work on anything. Whether it's a cheap Energizer or Rayvac that uses AAA batteries, a Petzl, or a nicer one like the Olight Perun that I use.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for you suggestions! definitely both good additions 😊

[@FlatLanderTech]

Great stuff! I still need to buy a lot of this stuff, especially the deburring tool!

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Haha yeah they’re cheap and really effective. Did you do it with a knife so far or how?

[@ScytheNoire]

Great list, all items I have and use constantly. I would add tweezers, one set with sharp points, the other with flat ends. Both can come in handy.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Happy to hear ! Yeah tweezers are definitely a good buy 😊 just got a set of like 6 different kinds to be equipped

[@HepauDK]

I still have my trusty old Mitutoyo vernier calipers from when I apprenticed as a fitter back in the mid-90's, and though I already had a set of Wera Hex Plus keys from the same era, I recently bought a new set, so I have one for both inside the house and in my garage/woodshop. I've been a DIY'er for decades, so I already have quite a collection of pliers and cutting tools, including the de-burring tool. Vacuum bags should arrive in the mail today. :)

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Nice! any tools that you think are missing on the list or that I should definitely have? Just ordered a pair of Mitutoyo myself since I got annoyed by the cheap alternatives...

[@HepauDK]

@@Arne.Bornheim I am still *very* green when it comes to 3D printing, I have only had my first printer, a Creality K1, for a little over 3 weeks, so what tools you might be missing, your guess is as good as mine. Other than the Japanese Mitutoyo, my only advice is to go for German made tools in general. Wera, Wiha, Knipex etc. Swedish Bahco is also pretty good, most of my pliers and files are from them. I bought a Knipex flushcutter for making RJ45 cables, and it is *so* much better than the ones you get with the printers. The cutting edges align perfectly with no visible light getting through. One tip about the calipers, if at all possible, when measuring outside, press the jaws together with the thumb on one, and the third finger on the other and wiggle it back and forth a bit with the index finger to feel for slop for the highest level of accuracy. Just pushing the floating jaw with the thumb can give you any result you want if there is the faintest amount of tolerance between the floating jaw and the main body, or the jaws and the workpiece depending on how hard you press it. Personally I would much rather have the Mitutoyo calipers with a dial indicator. It is highly accurate, with no risk of running out of battery. :) My cheap digital calipers have wasted both supplied batteries just by being stored unused in the box, being ot of juice when I finally needed it. And if you need precision in the 1000th of a mm, you are better off with proper micrometers.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

@@HepauDK Thanks for your input. Since I'm based in germany I have easy access to those nice tools 😊 Have some Wera and Bahco stuff and it's really well made. in terms of the calipers: I was temped to go analog but i just like the digital display too much haha

[@xandersnyder7214]

One last thing, DO NOT use isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed in an enclosed printer, it will evaporate and dry out your belts and cause the to crack and fail. Hot water, dish soap, and a scrub sponge are the best. Save the Isopropyl for resin printing.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Interesting. Thanks for this point. Never thought about that

[@Widur42]

Just take the build plate out, clean it with Isopropanol and put it back in after a few minites. Isopropanol evaporates fast and without any residuals.

[@jayedwin98020]

@@Widur42: And if possible, use at least 91% Isopropyl alcohol for fast drying.

[@Decimus-Magnus]

I question how much of an effect alcohol vapors could possibly have, especially with the door and top of your printer open. I would think heat would affect them more over time. Also spraying a cleaning microfiber cloth and then wiping with a clean drying cloth minimizes the amount of alcohol vapors created in the enclosure. If it worries you, just remove the plate when cleaning it.

[@useinventions2025]

don't use when the bed is hot stupid

[@BelfastBiker]

Solid, solid list!!!! I have A1s with the weak camera, so I added a cheap tripod twixt myprinters, and perched a cheap blink pan and tilt camera on top. Can see my printing from anywhere, in much better quality from a much better vantage point. When I was cat sitting over a weekend, I put one of my blink wireless cameras behind, and was able to manually pop off the finished prints after 20 minutes, into a cardboard box, using the print head as a battering ram. Allowed me to print a lot of things over that weekend..

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Nice that’s a really cool trick! 😊 Do you push it off manually or do you have a script?

[@BelfastBiker]

@@Arne.Bornheim it was just manually. I've seen solutions nearing completion that involved multiple plates, looking inrteresting.

[@NWGR]

Great video, thanks for posting. I have all the tools you showcased aside from a decent set of 6" diagonal cutters. Knipex to the rescue! lol

[@Arne.Bornheim]

haha nice! Any additional tools you think I missed?

[@floatypiet]

Dude I love the plastic scraper! I’ll probably print that one!😍

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Nice to hear! Honestly love the thing

[@jeffwalker7185]

When I cut ptfe tube, I insert a piece of filament into the tube - this stops the tube from distorting as you cut it.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

really smart! Will do this in the future 😊 !

[@skitfarlig1]

The Bahco tool wagon looks sick!

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks so much! It wasn't cheap, but is really worth it. (in NA I also really like Husky tool chests but I couldn't get them in Europe)

[@Roobotics]

Bought a edge deburrer, haven't found a single use for it except for metal. XY offset on brim exists to make them peel off very easily, if the bottom layer is squished that's elephant's foot/first layer compensation. With printers today it's kinda a thing of the past. 1:41 ABS needs a glue stick on textured PEI since when??? that list seems extra cautious, never used gluesticks one PETG with a smooth surface either, never have had print failures on well designed parts, clean your bed with 90%(minimum) ISO regularly, and keep the filament at it's glass transition point so it doesn't shrink until the print is done.. If the geometry is so bad models fail, that's a design issue that CAN be brute forced with glue, but now everyone that ever makes it, also gets to suffer trying to make it work. For a scraper, once you get a feel for it, metal is the way, it will last forever.. I have a super generic Ender3 freebie scrapper that has a defect, one corner is significantly sharper than the rest of it, works amazing to sneak under a stuck part then use the normal rest of the blade without any scratching issues. If I ever lose it I'll make another just like it. As far as vacuum bags go.. I've never dried any of my filaments until just recently, and realized after that it might have been a different error, humidity ~40-60%, I was printing TPU and it was just garbage, I have no idea why Bambu sets 240c for their generic TPU profile, yet 230 for their own 95A TPU.. I dropped it to 230 and it printed like a dream. They are baking some 'generic' filament profiles to death just to make theirs seem better I think..

[@TimTheEngineer96]

Great video Arne! I’ll have to get a brass wire brush for nozzle cleanup :)

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks so much! Hope it helps for the future

[@jamiemacdonald436]

My opinion on buying more expensive calipers for 3D printing... don't bother. You used the phrase "perfectly precise", and that is not what calipers are for. Calipers are a good reference, and that's it. Even some of the less expensive (not the absolute cheapest though) calipers out there will give you an accuracy of +/- 0.001" / 0.03mm. With current consumer 3D printing technology you are not going to be able to utilize a resolution or accuracy greater than that anyway. If you're concerned with the accuracy and repeatability of your current calipers then buy an inexpensive gage block or a gage pin and periodically check your current calipers with them as a standard. Again, just my opinion. I know myself that I sometimes just like to buy the best tools I can whether I actually need them or not.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks good for pointing that out! I guess it’s just for quality in terms of them being long lasting and maybe handling better …

[@triggerfish999]

I agree. A budget vernier gauge works just fine.

[@LimBo3500]

Get a manual one. That doesn't run out of battery if you don't use it for a period of time.

[@NinadHarishPatil]

A difference of opinion here. I would suggest a good reference pair of calipers that is capable of accuracy and precision well beyond the capabilities of the printer, so that you are able to quantify the inaccuracy of the prints objectively. This achieves two purposes. Firstly, it helps objectify your process of dialing in your print settings and e-steps every time you make a major change in slicers, filaments or switch extruders or printers. And secondly, if you're working with prints that need any sort of standardization, you're capable of providing a basic self-certification with a known calibrated tool. A good factory certified pair of Mitutoyos (fully manual vernier scale or dial scale) calipers isn't ridiculously expensive, and lasts a lifetime if used responsibly.

[@sergeantsapient]

I have the cheap calipers I bought at Harbor Freight 8 years ago and they've served me well. I remember back then enthusiasts were telling people to spend upwards of $100 dollars for better calipers but frankly "close enough" has worked pretty well for me.

[@tommaxwell429]

Have you tried that new Dawn Power Wash spray? It cuts right through grease on pots and pans. I have not tried it on a plates but plan to do so. I agree with your tool list. I'd add a filament dryer if you live in any kind of humidity at all. Don't need the big S4 but a two spooler is great.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Totally agree with the filament dryer ! 😊 especially with more advanced filaments it’s a must

[@Anadrolus]

Great list thank you very useful ! please make also videos about essential tips or more useful mods like you did, or great 3D prints for life in general.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks I’ll definitely put that on my list 😊 I already have some things planned

[@ethancohen6005]

Plastic build plate scrapers are great. If you are going to use metal look for the print that angles the blade perpendicular to the plate. Its a similar thing to what Zack said. If your using a sharp scraper, so sharp bambu says to use it to cut the ptfe tube, you will slash into or shave off part of your build plate cover/sticker, at some point in time

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Yeah that’s what I would think too. Especially on the textured plate I’d be scared of destroying the texture

[@GregMurch]

Do you have links to the gridfinity post for your tools please.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Hi sorry I will try to add some links. Mostly I just search on Thangs and makerworld for „xxx gridfinity“ also some of them might be selfmade and I never uploaded them …

[@ulaB]

Nice list. Only things I haven’t used in my years so far is the build plate glue and bed scraper. Maybe I don’t have to scrape, because I don’t use glue? ;-) So far proper cleaning was always enough for my build plates. I do like your vacuum bags. Mine only have some kind of sticker over a hole instead of a proper valve like yours. One thing I started to use more often is a dental mirror with an LED light. I use it to check if my nozzle is clean for example.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for the idea with the dental mirror! Is usually use the bed scraper to get off a brim or a draft line without putting fingerprints on the bed… The glue does make adhesion a lot better which is great again warping but also makes removing brims harder. The main print always comes off no problem though 😊

[@RoyBeerZ]

You will want to use glue when printing stuff that sticks _too well_ to your plate, lest you rip off your PEI coating when printing PETG right on top of it, for example.

[@ulaB]

@@RoyBeerZ That's a different glue. Plus I have Flex sheets that are made for PETG.

[@SergCR]

I think you missed a filament dryer. Complete game changer!

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Definitely a great investment

[@mylittleparody2277]

Very good list, thank you.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for watching! You're very welcome 😊

[@MarkThomas123]

Your Videos are Priceless!! I don't even have a 3D printer yet and I am binge watching your videos and taking notes for when I feel comfortable I will be able to start running.. Ha.. I think with Fusion 360 and the Gridfinity Plugin, I will be able to make enough boxes to keep me busy, but,,, Custom Boxes are on the Agenda for a Non-Fusion 360 user at this point.. May I make some video suggestions? A longer and more detailed tutorial using a camera and the Fusion/Gridfinity combo to make a "Caliper Holder".. Straight lines and curves, and add something in to give us an idea on making depth curves for something with a rounded handle, and I think most people could use that to get a really good start.. A video on, What I would do with my first 3D Printer, if I had to do it all over again.. Print Tools from the Menu, what basic set of filaments I would buy to be able to print flexibly most items you would want to build first. Mention this video for the tools to get with it. You could actually do a 3D Startup video for Newbies, and, walk your way back through what you went through learning.. The types of files you will be fooling with and what they are like STL, etc. A video on 3D printer Terminology would be great. Brims, Elephant ears, Support, Bridges, etc.. Even if you just briefly cover them.. There are not many or very few good video tutorials for starting users. Either I have not run across them, they are hard to find, or, enough of them don't exist.. If you have any recommendations, feel free to shout them out.. I really like your style of thinking and expression.. Thanks for taking the time to make the videos.. They really don't have to be perfect,, just good content, but, I am sure you would argue that point considering some of the comments I have seen, but, might as well focus on that too, if you want things really good when you are finished in the long run.. :) Thanks again!!!

[@jepolch]

Thanks very much. I didn't know about Maker World.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Happy to help! for me its a gamechanger not havint to worry abour print settings

[@jayedwin98020]

Dremel Tool, Putty knife, Filament dryer • You might want to try Elmer's Washable Glue Stick for bed adhesion. Works great and less expensive than Bambu Liquid Build Plate Glue.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Yeah those are all great tools too 😊 had to end the list somewhere but maybe I'll make a second video some time! Sadly I can't get Elmer's in Germany so I'll have to see

[@inthehead1763]

I have a PEI sheet and when I use isopropyl alcohol bed adhesion is very poor but when I use window cleaner its great. Much easier to get also.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Interesting one! Thanks for mentioning it 😊 It's both mostly alcohol and should clean grease away nicely but wonder what makes the difference in the end

[@andririan6342]

Great video. I would like to say that for the build plate with alcohol, better use how water and soft liquid soap to clean the build plate because alcohol can wear out the plate and destroy it in the long term, because alcohol is to strong in my experience.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

thanks for the info! Yeah i now clean it with water and soap every now and then

[@pjsb5757]

Thanks for the information.

[@xandersnyder7214]

If you stick with the metal bed scraper you should hone it like a chisel to keep it sharp.

[@KarolTechBug]

if u got bambu printer you also shoud have received metar blade with it, 3d model should also be included on SD card and im not gonna lie THIS IS AWESOME, it has really good angle so prints really easy come off of build plate and i think its almost impossible to damage it

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Im honestly just really scared of damaging the build plate with a metal one… if you ever use it at the wrong angle you could do some damage …

[@KarolTechBug]

@@Arne.Bornheim this scraper has like a little plastic bump which you supposed to place it on the surface first and then it has perfect angle to wedge under prints but i totally understand ur concerns

[@Jeff-zc3wl]

I've found that a metal protector is also handy when modeling parts for 3d printing.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

What's a metal protector? Or a metal detector?

[@Wangsium]

I have a small blow torch for the stringing

[@Zeciortech]

Lighter bro, just normal lighter not a torch Especially for poorly calibrated retraction, but also can quickly "hide" traces after cutting off supports, even on an ordinary surface it changes the "white color" when cutting to the original one, it's not about melting the print, but about passing for a second next to a surface that looks bad, Totally game change, Especially for prints with very small spaces between the "towers" where this retraction is always slightly visible "stains"

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for your explanation ! 😊

[@E-MAT-sz3sg]

just wanted to add: Please be aware of those deburring tools. Same as the Scalpel its sharp as hell. When you slip you will cut your thumb especially if you use it the way you did. Of course the chance of slipping is not the same as with deburring metal but still can be a dangerous tool when used without care.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for mentioning this !

[@SamZonYT]

LTT screwdriver heck ya

[@Arne.Bornheim]

definitely 😊 love that thing!

[@MakingallthatKaos]

Great video thanks!

[@Arne.Bornheim]

you're very welcome :) thanks so much for watching!

[@edwardbianchi4160]

Buy a hemostat. Sort of a miniature vise-grip. Great for gripping and handling small stuff. Good for removing hard-to-reach supports.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for the tip! That looks very hospital-y haha But I defnitely see why this would be a great tool

[@Michael-Hein]

Good Collection! But I missed the dentist set, which I don't want to miss.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll take a look at that :)

[@itsyagirlapes]

The liquid build plate glue is currently out of stock on Bambu, but their glue stick is in stock. Is there a difference? Should I wait for the liquid one to be back in stock?

[@Arne.Bornheim]

I think you'll be fine either way. I think the Liquid glue is easier to apply but it also depends on the filament you're printing

[@BigJon1378]

You definitely need to print the AMS lite spool removal tool on maker world.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks, this looks like a really interesting too. I'm planning an A1 Mini Mods Episode sometime soon and might include it there!

[@BigJon1378]

@Arne.Bornheim awesome thank you

[@schmerol]

if you use a knife you scrape (meaning you point your knife's edge away from you while pulling to you) instead of cutting. It's more reliable, easier and safer than most people think if done right and with practice. that said deburring tools are great nonetheless.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for mentioning this! makes a lot of sense. One thing I want to mention for people reading this, please only do it with a locking knife. If I were to do this with my flip out , non locking swiss army knife I'd be in the hospital very fast 😃

[@schmerol]

@@Arne.Bornheim yeah very good advice :D usually you do this with guide cutters - don't use flip knifes :D

[@DrClaw-y2l]

You can get a special cutter for those tubes so you don't collapse them

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks! yeah i got one now 😊

[@edgreywolf]

nice vid

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks so much !

[@WhoIsLudwig]

I've had much better and more consistent results with soap and water than with IPA for my bed cleaning. Hands soap works fine and is less aggressive than dish soap. Isopropyl alcohol is still unvaluable in a lot of situations and I still have one spray bottle handy, but for the cleaning, I always go the "old school" route now and it never failed me !

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks! With so many people saying this I will have to try it out in the future as well :) !

[@Padi-23]

I got a blob on my a1, still haven’t got it working it’s been 2 months Bambu sent me a th board to try and fix it

[@Arne.Bornheim]

where did your blob go or why is it so bad? when I had it, I just turned on the hotend to melt the blob and then took it off with pliers....

[@bitsurfer0101]

I like to store my filament in a airtight bin with a rechargeable dessicant like Eva-Dry.

[@AldoInza]

Look up the accuracy variance of your printer and your calipers. If the printer is 10x more variable than your calipers don't waste the money.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for pointing that out! I might eventually upgrade to the good ones since one cheap pair already broke on me but then it would just be for longevity

[@FredSchmitthammer]

Do you have a link to the screw driver and Allen keys?

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Sorry, I forgot those! Added them in the description but also here you go www.lttstore.com/products/screwdriver Wera Hex Keys METRIC: geni.us/TKgblj * Wera Hex Keys IMPERIAL: geni.us/SYouk * With * is an affiliate link ;)

[@FredSchmitthammer]

@Arne.Bornheim thank you

[@Ponial]

isopropyl alcohol and glue...Not even surprised. My tip: wash the bed with warm water and normal soap, then let it dry. My bed adhesion problems always are solved this way. everything else, I can agree 100%

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks so much for your feedback 😊 It was mentioned a lot so will do this every now and then

[@3DToolBoox]

how did you make that timelapse?

[@Arne.Bornheim]

I do it with a DSLR and a special shutter that is triggered after each layer I made a whole video about how i make timelapses! you should check it out.

[@3DToolBoox]

@Arne.Bornheim I have found out that now its possible to make smooth timelapses in bambu studio. But the main problem is the camera. I have a P1S and i have to come up with a solution to trigger a bluetooth button for DSLR. I will check your video on this as well.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Yeah P1s and x1c Timelapses are hard! Still haven’t really perfected my setup for this. The a1 series is also way easier to get good lighting on the Timelapse

[@3DToolBoox]

@@Arne.Bornheim I've been working on this all day, and my head feels like it's going to explode! The main issue is with the nozzle head when it moves to the safe position (where it purges filament). It stays there for about 3 seconds. I've placed the Bluetooth button behind it, but the nozzle head ends up pressing the button for 3 seconds, which causes the button to turn on and off. I tried editing the G-code, and it worked for 3 to 4 layers, but after that, the problem came back. Can you help edit the G-code so that, during smooth time-lapse, the nozzle head only stays in the safe position for 1 second per layer? That would be a huge help!

[@Arne.Bornheim]

@3DToolBoox yeah it‘s a frustrating topic! With the GCode I can‘t really help im afraid since I’m no expert either. That being said 2 ideas: there might be different g Code for the first layers and the rest. The pause is usually coded with „P“ and them a number of Milliseconds. So P3000 for example. So look out for that. Secondly you could try putting it into chat gpt and telling it what you want changed.

[@knightmare1442]

I bought a cheap allen key set for 10€ from china and after 2 years the ones I use regularly are pretty rounded. So yeah, invest in something better but you will probably only use three so maybe you can find them individually.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Not sure if you can buy these as singles but it’s definitely worth the invest 😊

[@nickwestwood3057]

What gear do you use for filming please

[@Arne.Bornheim]

I'm a freelance filmmaker mainly so I have a lot of gear. Mainly I shoot on the Sony Fx3 (a cheaper alternative might be the ZVE-10) from there usually 2 zooms to get you working in most conditions

[@JimboHurt]

Were you printing a keyboard? Will you share a name or a link please? Great vid

[@Arne.Bornheim]

yes I 3d printed my own keyboard 😊 It's my last video that i published before that, there are no files for it so far though because there are probably way better designs out there....

[@jaqhass]

Soap vs alcohol depends on what adhesion you use.

[@christianhohne5747]

Honestly no glue needed if you clean your build plates for pla properly! Otherwise when you are touching your build plate so often with your bare fingers a glue stick is a real game changer!

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Yeah it was mostly no problem. Just for large flat objects it has been a great improvement because I got zero warping since I used the glue …

[@Shafy7]

May I know what’s the tool box. Looking for a tool box for my 3d print stuff.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Mine is from Bahco and I bought it in Germany. If you're in North America, Husky is also a really good brand (but not available in Europe I think, not sure about other continents)

I haven't seen this episode of Trainspotting yet. 😁

[@PropLeadOSINT]

...can of hair spray works perfectly on the Creality Build Plate

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Yeah definitely also a great alternative ... I'd just advise to take the build plate off the printer before applying so you don't get any sticky hairspray in the printer...

[@jerrymacvaldosta]

Thanks great

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks so much :) Happy to have you on the channel!

[@lancereyesromero7811]

No hot air blower?

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Also a good thing! Just had to end the list somewhere and I don’t have a hot air blower yet (it’s on the shopping list though😉 )

[@moss3d_uk]

Scapples give me nightmares, had someone lose an eye when the tip snapped of... Safety squince please!

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Safety squint will safe you 😂. Haha yeah I know what you mean though. I have lots of respect when using them

[@theconstanttraveler903]

you can use use kids gluestick from teh office store. its literally the same stuff but at a 10th the price

[@Arne.Bornheim]

true. I like the liquid glue a bit better because it feels less messy to me, but in the end it does mostly the same

[@mrteemug5329]

4:55 bro my heart skipped

[@O-RoD]

That clip was reversed fir sure cause no way anyone is doing that and NOT getting stabbed 😅😅😅

[@rifz42]

looks like white gloves would be good for removing things from the plate to keep it clean

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Good call! I might have to get a pair 😊

[@markbooth3066]

This is a fantastic set of tips, I had everything here, but as a resource for someone starting out, it's great. We've never had a problem with bed adhesion on our textured PEI plate, but as soon as we tried using a smooth PEI plate, we started to have problems. We tried increased initial layer height, uisng a glue stick, liquid glue, PVA sludge, but all of the glue methods left the smooth surface with imperfections due to the thickness of the glue being inconsistent after drying. What did work however, was cheap, nasty hair spray. I've heard many people talking about this over the years, so we decided to give it a go, and it was a revelation. With the process we used to apply the hairspray we got very even, consistent 'glue' coverage that resulted in no smears, streaks, or inconsistent surface textures on the print. Our process was to put the build plate on the floor of the bath, holding the hairspray about a foot above it, and two feet to one side, then do one long, steady sweep across the build plate to 2 feet on the other side. Due to the size of the spray jet we did two passes, one across the top half of the plate, and another across the bottom. If you have a spray with a narrower or wider jet you may need more or fewer passes, but the aim is to get as even a coverage as possible, to avoid a build up that shows on the surface texture of your prints. With regard to build plate cleaning, I got used to using IPA for cleaning old glass build plates, and there it worked really well, but with newer PEI build plates, we found that IPA reduced adhesion for some materials, so I switched to soap and water, and that eliminated that problem. I still clean PEI build plates with IPA when they have problems soap and water can't help with, but I always give them a quick clean with soap and water after, and that combination gives you the best of both worlds.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thanks for sharing all your insights 😊 ! Yeah hairspray can definitely also good! for me it's just a little more work as you always have to take the plate out. That's where i love the liquid glue but I haven't made any real comparisons....

[@markbooth3066]

I'd kinda dismissed hair spray in the past,@@Arne.Bornheim so I was quite surprised at just how well it worked. My other half religiously washes the plate before every print, so the plate is always taken to the bathroom anyway. Auto levelling, auto z-offset calibration and magnetic spring steel plates make changing the build surface every print so much easier than the old clip on glass beds we used to use.

[@3dprinterplanet]

Please don’t tell me that you put that glue with a cushion on it on a textured bed and not a smooth one

[@bartman2395]

dude I print ABS on PEI without any glue lololol. qidi plus 4

[@Gert-DK]

I have never used glue or anything else on my Bambu. Use IPA before each (or second) print. Buy some REAL microfiber cloths to use with the IPA. Wash your microfiber cloths at high temperature. These cloths do not lint, and can easily be used over 14 days or so.

[@Piryce_Christian]

you forgot a 3d printer as an important tool

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thank you! somebody was bound to notice....

[@SianaGearz]

You can get scalpel knives which are retractable, much nicer than handling a cap and potentially losing or misplacing it. But it's not ideal. I think someone needs to design a 3D printable one where the blade is attached such that it cannot rotate and unscrew itself, with the mount utilising the slot in the blade.

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Sounds like an interesting idea. Yeah a retractable scalpel makes sense and then I like the idea for the 3d designed one

[@edwardbianchi4160]

@@Arne.Bornheim The blades of surgical scalpels snap into their handles. They won't rotate.

[@kundeleczek1]

Don't use that hexagonal surfaces. Use normal surfaces instead, they are better mechanically and are better for your printer

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Sorry i'm not 100% sure what you mean with hexagonal surfaces?

[@kundeleczek1]

@Arne.Bornheim your left hand in thumbnail

[@Arne.Bornheim]

@@kundeleczek1 ahhh gotcha! thanks for the info

[@epi_adikt]

I'd reccomend Dial Calipers instead of Digital Calipers

[@Arne.Bornheim]

How come? Personally I’m definitely a fan of digital

[@epi_adikt]

@@Arne.Bornheim No need for batteries, feel more solid in my opinion, plus it's nice being able to physically see each turn of .1

[@Adaks]

homie really said hes gonna invest into 120 euro callipers! for what lol? are you measuring atoms?

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Not yet but maybe for a future project 😉 honestly I broke one of the cheap ones already and often I like to invest once in quality and than have it for a long time

[@berkertaskiran]

Haha you can't measure atoms for that cheap. Nice try.

[@davidblah-7215]

Suuuuubscribe!

[@Arne.Bornheim]

Thank you! Really happy to have you on the channel!

[@jbaldwin1970]

Couldn’t hear you over the music, sadly. The beat, volume and pitch interfere with your voice. You don’t need music on videos - they’d be much better without it

[@Arne.Bornheim]

thanks for your feedback! I will consider it for the future.

[@Franek-s9o]

the xiaomi rachet screwdriver is also cool and much cheaper

[@Arne.Bornheim]

that's also a nice one! thanks for sharing 😊

[@CaioWilson]

nice, 2 days ago cut a part of minha index finger and nail bc of not having proper tools