Electrical Work Ep.97

[@krzysiekv12]

In the UK it is customary for other electricians to point out how badly the work was carried out by another contractor

[@MrSleepProductionsInc]

I think that is universal. Especially when you see a guy running conduit.

[@mikeyfoofoo]

It is also true for anyone with a computer and more than 20 minutes of weekend experience to point out how badly work has been carried out. Ha!

[@barrybritcher]

Bundy 10

[@xoxo2008oxox]

@@mikeyfoofoo LOL..don't forget having access to internet makes them an expert!

[@bigunone]

@@xoxo2008oxox True

[@corcoransullivan1562]

Guy was a logger, then a home builder, then a blacksmith, then a 1 million sub KZbin guy! Wow a powerhouse! Always impressed Sir!

[@Edition89]

you forgot concrete mason

[@ADVBear]

@@Edition89 ... and The Guardian of All Knowledge.

[@corcoransullivan1562]

@@Edition89 Absolutely, the guys a beast. Guys like this are an American treasure, not many around.

[@oskarjohansson593]

I am not surprised, he’s Also half swedish , so I can guess what part of him does the logging , blacksmithing and homebuilding parts and wich does the youtubing 😉

[@BruceLeanTrades]

and now he’s a general contractor

[@dmkaeding]

Excellent time to pull communication, computer, and entertainment wires too. Working for Ma Bell for decades, I encountered many brand new beautifully crafted homes and I had to drill a hole and have exposed surface mount wiring. It was a shame they didn't plan better.

[@scythelord]

I second this. I hope EC decides to install cat6 cabling in the home as well. Nothing is worse than a new house that lacks hardwired LAN. Wifi is NOT an adequate replacement for ethernet. Wifi is ONLY for portable devices that do not have a defined home location. Every single device that can take ethernet WILL be better using ethernet over wifi, especially since every additional device on wifi connection degrades overall performance for all connected devices. Every bedroom and the living room should have at least 1 ethernet cable. Living room should maybe have at least two outlets, with all these ethernet cables ran to a central location in the home where the ISP connection, modem and wifi router will live for the best wifi coverage of the home. Also if ethernet is ran, try not to run it alongside electrical if at all possible.

[@varno]

Al's don't skimp on the cable, use at least cat 6A at this time anything less really is not worth it. Make sure you have AP install locations in the ceiling of each floor too, as many as you can, it is much harder to add it in later than it is to build it in to begin with. If you want to really have it well, then run 1 inch conduit to each location with a draw string, so that newer cables can be run when the changes in technology require it. If that is not possible, remember coax for cable/tv/radio, cat6A for phone and data, so 2x runs to each point, and preferably run some form of fibre for future use at greater than 10G speeds (after 10G copper just gives up, we may get 40G but even that seems unlikely)

[@FishFind3000]

Unfortunately I think he’s to old to think about or know this. It’s gonna be the next owners issue. If they had a utility closet they could make that the central panel for everything and make it easy.

[@FishFind3000]

@@scythelord I was lucky that when my father build our home he installed ethernet cables to be used as phone lines. I was able to remove the phone line connectors and put on ethernet. Unfortunately since it was planned to be phone most of the lines are cat3 so it’s about unless and WiFi is faster. Thankfully one of the rooms that got the cat5 was mine so I have perfect internet speed being the furthest room for the router.

[@janderson8401]

Trouble with a spec house is guessing where the buyer will want phones computers, TVs, etc. Remodeled a den for a customer once where they told me a flat screen TV would be going over the fire place. We put blocking for the mounting hardware and had the electrician run both the coax and the power. The next time I had to work there the TV was in the corner and the was a big painting over the fireplace. A few years later the house was stuck by lightning which caused a fire that led to almost all of my work in that room getting redone by another contractor.

[@salsyou]

It is also helpful to the electrician to have a builder who is involved with the process. Just one example to make the meter, panel, equipment layout, etc look good and incorporate with the construction. As an electrician I appreciate that. Thanks

[@markchidester6239]

I would imagine there is a lot of "what the @#$&+*" between the carpenter, plumber and electrician.

[@Odrunkmonkey]

Electrician should have been there to set the meter box before siding, I’ve fixed at least two dozen leaking rotten garage side walls that were never flashed correctly. It’s a pain in the ass to have the power company come out and explain why I have to rip the wall apart with the meter and panel in it.

[@WyrGuy2]

@@Odrunkmonkey that was my thought exactly. The way that one was installed is a direct violation of the BC Building Code and does not maintain the integrity of the vapour barrier (a requirement in the Canadian Electrical Code) nor the (required here) Rain Screen system. One of the (many) differences between the NEC & the CEC and now that I’m happily retired... not my problem!

[@JustinL614]

@@markchidester6239 The carpenters and electricians usually don't get along

[@JustinL614]

@@Odrunkmonkey Unfortunately fron what I've seen that usually doesn't happen. I've replaced many outdoor electrical installations and for some reason most of my fellow electricians thinks 2 or 4 screws through the siding makes an outdoor box complete without thinking about water. Then when it leaks they say "well I'm not a waterproofer I'm an electrician"

[@TokyoCraftsman]

I've been waiting to see this electrical video. My whole family on both sides are sparkies, both grandfathers, my dad, my older brother, several uncles, various cousins, etc, and my dad was an electrician and then he became an electrical inspector of the province for 30 years. I grew up doing this work. Yep, I was waiting to see the panel, you can tell a LOT about your electrician by how he makes his panel, this one looks great! Cheers from Tokyo, and Merry Christmas! Stu

[@613kc]

something special about working a trade you grew up in. no substitute for it. you're always a little ahead of your peers

[@jacobcannon3347]

How somebody does a panel does not make them a good electrician

[@candace3676]

Wonderful to know people in Tokyo are watching Dixonville, Oregon, EC. Amazing.

[@JeremyHansen]

On top of how the panel looks, also the detail made during the rough in. Everything will be hidden, but great sparkies will usually still keep things neat and proper. That work tends to be carried over to the finish. This guy's rough looked great!

[@jacobcannon3347]

@@gvanderleun Not Really, A 1st year should be able to tie grounds up good

[@BubbasDad]

From a retired Electrical Inspector; neatness always received extra points. It showed that the installer cared about the work and took extra effort to see it done right.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

Thanks, James. From a 35yr contractor, I appreciate the bs ya had to deal with. ( I may be 'retiring' into inspections. Not sure I wanna babysit so many children, but my body says, 'time!', lol)

[@warrenmichael918]

Yes, he does very neat work in the panel install, im sure he always does. The fact this is in a house that has close to a million subscribers also made him make sure he was extra neat too i would imagine! LOL

[@BubbasDad]

Pride in your work is no matter the value of the project or who will see it.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

@@BubbasDad right. But don't needlessly spend money on things you cant charge for. When you buy a Ford, Chevy, or dodge, do you expect to get get a lexus?

[@av_990]

As an electrician, and a fan of the channel, ive been waiting for a video like this! Cool watch 👍

[@bmanwpg]

Ditto!! Got pretty excited this morning when I saw it in my feed!

[@Lugnut64052]

Yeah, look at the bunch of us here. I expect a big percentage of the people watching this channel have spend many years, decades in a lot of cases, on the jobsite. And here we all are, watching guys working on the jobsite.

[@dustindemoe2643]

Also as a fellow “sparky”, it’s interesting to see others work. Though the NEC does allow #14 wire, it is rarely used in Oklahoma. I did expect to see this be a smart home with current upgrades. I’m not knocking the install, just curious if more is to come. Keep up the good work!!

[@av_990]

@@dustindemoe2643 hate being called "sparky" lol

[@bigunone]

@@dustindemoe2643 Other than lights the last houses I did were almost all done in 12 trying to future wire

[@haphazard1342]

Around 8:00 it looks like your electrician has run a lot of holes through those engineered joists. Worth mentioning for the KZbin audience that engineered joists have limits on the number and size of holes you can put in them for installs like this.

[@garbo8962]

We were taught to always attempt to drill holes in first & last third of any joists and never near center.

[@clayed]

Always interesting to see how things are done elsewhere.

[@eriknovak5452]

As an electrical apprentice from Illinois, it's so weird not seeing conduit run everywhere

[@marcelhertig3935]

no pipes,only wire

[@pistool1]

Based on the video, it is surprising that professional electricians just nailed cables to wood everywhere and did not use any plastic tubing; seems pretty strange. In my country, every electronic work, no matter whether it is a summer cottage or a new office complex, they use those plastic pipes for cable installations and every single line installed. It is truly neater, more secure and easier (+cheaper!) to alter or update in the future, too. This is only my opinion. I guess the standards are different in the US than here in Finland, Europe.

[@FishFind3000]

@@eriknovak5452 ikr, I’m not even an electrician and I know everything in illinois needs to be protected in hard conduit or armored cable

[@carpespasm]

@@pistool1 In the US it varies by region a little. In most areas residential houses are run just like in this video, but for some cities they require everything must run in some sort of conduit pipe, and in the vast majority of commercial work wiring must be metal clad or in a conduit. I think the general reasoning is that once the walls are closed up it's unlikely the wires will be hit by anything that wouldn't have damaged them anyway, but in commercial spaces things are reworked so often it's more important to look out for future workmen.

[@jacklucas7265]

I just recently installed a sub-panel in my house and acquainted myself with electrical work. It was a source of pride to me to be asked by the inspector if I was an electrician. The rest of my house here in Texas was wired by Morlocks, with wires scattered all over the attic. Your electricians are Rhodes Scholars by contrast.

[@Jookyforever]

Hey Jack. When you wire the sub-panel, what kinds of wires go from the main panel to the sub-panel?

[@donmckechnie4129]

Thats the difference between lowest bidder and getting a quality electrical contractor for a bit more in price. Here in Canada almost all residential is done by lowest bidder contractors and its scary/disgusting, especially in the countryside of BC, there's fewer inspectors so everyone does cowboy stuff.

[@nofurtherwest3474]

How did you learn this? Was it hard to learn? I want to try thanks

[@bryanwinsor9392]

What do you call 12 electricians on a scaffold? A whine rack🙂🎅❤

[@psidvicious]

And by the amount of whiny comments I’m seeing, that’s not too far off. “You shoulda this...” “Why didn’t you that...” 🙄

[@carpespasm]

What's one tool no electrician knows how to use? A broom.

[@bigfoot99]

Ha Ha! A good one.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

We sparks ARE superior, get used to it.

[@blindorize]

@@carpespasm Ayee zing! For real though we end up sweeping not only our shit, but the plumber's, HVAC, fire suppression, and sometimes framer mess too, just cause we're the last ones in. Not always, but it's very common for other trades to not sweep cause they know we're coming in behind them. At least where I'm doing work.

[@octaviusthecrafter]

It's a Christmas miracle!!!! Essential Craftsman wore a respirator when he was supposed to!!!! I can't believe it!!!!!

[@szymonkowalczyk5217]

hahah that was my first thought too!!!!

[@TheMVCoho]

Peer pressure is an awful burden.

[@dk3062]

Breathing through my nose is how I filter dangerous particles

[@GaryDelgado]

@@dk3062 “OSHA-approved nosehair respirator” ;)

[@TheScottyboyee]

Rise of the nanny state

[@paulkolodner2445]

Here in New Jersey, the electrical code includes two items which are often overlooked elsewhere: 1. All electrical boxes must be crooked and loose. The front edge must be located behind the back surface of the drywall. 2. Holes in the drywall for electrical boxes must be large enough so that the tabs on the switches and outlets are not blocked.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

Hahaha! Same code writers here in NE ohio!

[@bnasty267]

Don't forget: 3. All wires in a box must be cut to NO more than 2 inches long and grounds twisted, clipped, and jammed in the back. Nobody should be able to rewire a box without cursing. 4. Receptacles, especially GFCI and decora, should be tilted and roll to the right. The face must never sit flush on all 4 corners. 5. If backstab connections are available, they must be used. Never spend the time to hook and screw your connections if it can be avoided.

[@madscientist5969]

HAHAHAHAHAHA - Good one! The NJ electricians must have learned their trade in New Mexico!

[@jacksak]

Hahahaha... so funny and true...

[@bobainsworth5057]

@@madscientist5969 Follow the money. Time is money. Electrical contractors who do developments follow 3 rules, 1) bare minimum to code, 2) use "builders grade - cheapest). 3) work as fast as possible ( use stab connectors in back of outlets not screws). Then they put in a bid which holds through building of entire development despite price increases. Last thing is State code but you have to follow township code. Each inspector has his own pet peeve. I once wired a three way sw. ( which can be wire three different ways by code ) and the inspector wanted it wired his way even though I used the code inspectors training book to do it. LOL.

[@willdavis2906]

Finally an electrical video! I would love to see more of these and maybe here from the electrician as well. It’s always fun to here how other guys do their work.

[@detroitbob58]

Not to pick an argument with you, but I installed HVAC for many years, and we ALWAYS CAME FIRST! It's a lot easier for plumbing and wires to work around our ducts. We are limited in how many ways we can tin the ducts. A few times some electrician thought he would just sneak into a house and finish first. Weellllll, after we had to cut several wire runs because I just could not stretch the wires to get my 6" duct past them, and he explodes at the GC and us, we were always backed up by the inspector.

[@stellarluna2637]

I thought the same , can't bend a heat pipe like you can a wire .

[@jacksak]

Lots of comments like this one and I agree but wonder if it's possible for an HVAC route plan to have been worked previously out for the electrician to avoid. Just a thought... (???)

[@DownwardsRising]

​@@jacksak Experienced electricians and plumbers often have a good idea where the ducts are going to go, and keep their wires low or high on the joists as much as possible so that the ducts can go through the middle of the joists. Return air ducts usually aren't a problem at all, as they're just compartmentalised joist and stud spaces that don't care if wires or potable water pipes are going through them. Sometimes it's the other way around too, if there's only one place in the wall of a washroom to put the electrical box for the switches, but there's already a drain pipe running through there from the washroom on the second story, or those big potlight cans have to go above a fireplace right where a bunch of ducts are already crammed in.

[@MasterHomeowner]

Poop before air.

[@timothydillon6421]

detroitbob58 It's in the crawlspace. It was put in after the joists and before the subflooring.

[@timfalardeau9753]

THATS THE CODE!! - Larry Haun

[@dancearoundtheworld5360]

Life goes on.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

Meh

[@Lilliputian63]

You caught that too eh? I wonder if Scott ever met Larry. Imagine the amount of combined knowledge in one small area!!

[@sciatl2505]

Not here meter and URD service cable can’t be inside the wall and also must have a outside service disconnect

[@timfalardeau9753]

@@sciatl2505 It was a goof on an old video by the Godfather of Framing/Building, Larry Haun...

[@Tactical-Black]

I'm just amazed at the different types of panels and the way they're installed in different parts of the world, and the ones that aren't used or go against the code in other parts of the world

[@vicktorpatriot1430]

In my area AEP nor South Central Power ( a cooperative ): will allow the meter to be in the wall like that. I think it is so that it is harder to hide a tap ahead of the meter.

[@ShouldersMoondog549]

Been an electrician for over 50 years now, like a couple of others, I do like seeing how other electricians do their work. However, I do question the main service meter enclosure within the wall! It does look nice but!! I know that the main service drop is enclosed in conduit, but is is still inside the house! Should something happen to the meter or service drop to the house, the only protection this has is back at the transformer from the utility! Also, like to see more on how you are going to feed the sub-panel with 200 amps from the 200 amp panel in the garage ???? I still really enjoy watching the Chanel! The detail you have included is just Great!!

[@tomyanney5856]

I think they fed the 200A subpanel with SER via feed through lugs (never seen this setup 17:10.) I think it's a little confusing at the end, but it appears to me that the house has a 200A service.

[@Resistculturaldecline]

Looks like a 200 amp meter base. I too was curious about the recessed meter base. I'm assuming the house is using a pass-thru first point of service panel as mentioned above which isnt how we do it but our way isnt the only way. I'm in Louisiana, and I know different areas have different methods. We also must have "burn loops" above our device boxes, which is a few inches extra slack wire between the nearest staple and box in case of any minor arc damage, more clean wire can be accessed by just pulling that little bit to you.

[@mr.h4714]

Watching the electrician twist, cut to length and then seat those grounds into the box all with a couple quick movements of the crimpers he was using was amazing.....you can tell it's muscle memory developed from thousands of times of being done

[@donm2255]

I really enjoy watching professionals work. There is no wasted motion. And that applies to every trade. They quickly figure out the fastest path to the correct result, then with repetition do it without needing to think about it.

[@tbernardi001]

A couple of thoughts come to mind watching this video. First, the need for codes and inspections is derided by some. But as an insurance professional who worked on a claim where several people were injured at a house where a deck railing gave way, I sure wish the county where it happened had a permit requirement for attached decks. Otherwise there is no way a deck railing constructed with finishing nails would have been allowed to be placed into service. Second, and unrelated to the first, I was reminded of how attention to detail was tested by Van Halen. They had a contract requirement that there be no green M&Ms in the candy dish in the dressing rooms. Not because green M&Ms were bad, but to see if the local promoter could follow the contract. If there were green M&Ms, the band's people knew to start looking closely for other issues with the set up, like short cuts on wiring and lighting that could cause real problems.

[@mdhofstee]

Yeah that was cool story about Van Halen. Here is a good story about the Brown M&M's from the mouth of the person who came up with the contract, David Lee Roth, kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6irgGV-o9yZpKM

[@jacksak]

So, were there green M&M's or was it all copacetic and the goose hangs high?

[@mdhofstee]

@@jacksak They were brown M&Ms and promoters had decided against reading the contract to the point that physical damage was down to the floor of venues. One such place Massari Arena had their new rubber floor on the court damaged to the tune of 80k when they did not read the part of the how much weight the stage was putting on the floor. Roth had also messed up the backroom when noticed the brown m&m's.

[@jacksak]

@@mdhofstee Thanks for your reply... interesting...

[@austinyun]

I'm a current union electrician. No residential work, all commercial/industrial, but I hear guys bitch about code and inspectors all the time. But when I was in Jr. High, my house burned down, almost certainly due to shoddy electrical work. I didn't wake up until almost everything was engulfed, but I had time to hop out of my bedroom window on the 2nd floor, walk to the edge of the carport, and jump down. I don't take it for granted.

[@MrTheBurkes]

"That's the code!" - Larry Haun, Essential Craftsman, and Phil 👍🏻👍🏻

[@tattered666]

I can hear Larry say it in my head 🤣

[@markchidester6239]

Was just going to say something like that

[@bobniles1928]

Does not your code require an external service disconnect?

[@tattered666]

@@bobniles1928 the external disconnect is pulling the meter itself which is the big glass dome in the exterior meter box. It's only held closed by a latch and tamper tag. The electric company or EMS/fire can easily and quickly disconnect the power if need be

[@bobniles1928]

@@tattered666 Are you trying to be a smarta$$? 2020 NEC requires an outside disconnect for 1&2 family dwellings. Pulling the meter is not a service disconnect.

[@mattschoular8844]

Nice to see another professional at work... I love opening a panel to see perfection. Nice job Simon

[@JayKayKay7]

We had an electrician get launched out of second story window when his drill motor bound up and rotated him up and away. We were building some apartments and the land sloped up at the back so he ended up unhurt flat on his back on the side of the hill. We all heard a yelp and walked to the back and there he was. After about a few seconds, the foreman yells out,"Whattya doing? Taking nap? Get back to work." Those things break your wrist in a heartbeat.

[@darrenwoloshyn]

Even a 18V cordless drill with an auger bit could snap your wrist. I smacked my face with the drill when it got caught.

[@adamr1637]

The superhawg he is using has a clutch that will slip before it throws you around. One reason I bought mine.

[@JustinL614]

@@darrenwoloshyn Be careful. There is a certain way to brace yourself with the drill that usually a responsible mentor will show you well before you ever get hit with the drill. I've operated core drills and rotary hammer drills that can easily flip a grown man around but with leverage in a way that I never have gotten hurt.

[@JPElectric]

As an electrician in the UK, I've been looking forward to see the power go in. Fascinating to see how its done over there. Its similar in some ways, but so different. I would be interested to know how long he took to first fix, he doesn't hang about! Every minute of this entire house build series has been brilliant.

[@thebigmacd]

I believe what you call "first fix" we call "rough-in"

[@MTaylorElectricalServices]

Yea some aspects look similar. No CPC sleeving at the CU 😳. Keep up the good work

[@ubrayj02]

This stage goes pretty quickly most of the time. There are always changes in a custom home and inevitable call backs as well as trim out - that is where the time gets eaten up.

[@alexku8452]

I was looking forward to this looking through German glasses. Some of the things I have seen made me cringe first, like no insulating sleeve on the ground wire. But thinking about it, the circumstances with the whloe wooden construction and the different electrical systems make it different in some ways, but looking in depth, not that much different at all. And for example the ground wire. Ours is supposed to have a green and yellow sleeve and you are not allowed to use it for anything else. But practically what difference does it make if it is sleeved or not? It is not like this one can short out anywhere. And if there is a metal housing, you have to attach it anyways. I think for this way of running the wiring, the flat format of the romax even has advantages to our more round cables which get burried in plaster and gypsum usually. And with the different voltages and phases of course there will be way different amp ratings. For example the breaker panels. they have just those two rails and mount breakers to the left and the right and have them each serve 120 V. Or you have a double width one that then can provide 240 V. In some sense easier than our DIN rail mounted breakers etc. But it simply would not work with three phase that way. And other than that, it is just different formats that developed over time. The inner workings are except for different ratings exactly the same. In the end, the physics are the same everywhere.

[@thebigmacd]

@@alexku8452 there are three-phase panels for commercial that are the same format. In Canada, they are 208/120V or 600/347V.

[@blackhillelliott4167]

I met Scott today at this house, im a sheetrock stocker for longs building supply, he's a really great guy and helped us the whole time

[@pfknob]

What is the address of the house?

[@suttonbogedain5874]

Dear brother, Thank you for the respect you always show to each discipline. Nearly 20 years of old and new work flew by when respect was given and reutrned. There is no great "welcome" to the job site than that. At 70 I still see the whole house process as fun. Although my professional days there are done I look forward to the new four car garage that's going to need a few devices. Grace to you.....

[@TheFPSCENTRAL]

Did a plumbing job with my uncle while I was in college. Had to drill some joists. The hole hawg almost spun me off the ladder and into the joists. The torque on those tools is incredible.

[@robertgregory2618]

Only use high speed on normal drilling. Low speed will break your arm. My favorite drill for decades.

[@mikenormandy9250]

Being a third generation commercial electrician (with some residential experience), watching this dude rough-in a house, alone, is astonishing! Clean, Neat, Organized! If only Half the other sparkies out there were 50% this good, We wouldn't have as many electrical issues and nightmares you hear and read about! great video again Mr. EC!

[@psidvicious]

When I was a kid, in the back of the comic books, there was an ad for a gag called the ‘Joy-Buzzer’. By about the age of 9, I knew how much I hated getting shocked, so this looked like a hilariously funny gag to play on friends. From the cartoon picture in the ad, it appeared to pack quite a wallop. What the ad failed to reveal, was that the perpetrator received about the same ‘shock’ as the victim. After an agonizing 6-8 weeks waiting for delivery, it finally came. I secretly palmed the toy (per the instructions), held my hand out to my brother for heart-felt, honest handshake and WHAMO! we were both ‘shocked’. I hated that toy! I think I might have used it twice before trading it away for something less ‘painful’. I think from that point, I knew working with electricity was not in the cards for me. I love all the things it can do for us, but I’ll leave it up to someone else to work on the installation part.

[@andrewalexander9492]

Was it actually an electrical device? The buzzers toys I've seen were just a wind up device that vibrated, fooling the victim into thinking he's been shocked.

[@ADVBear]

That was a thoroughly enjoyable tale, my friend. But you got what was coming to you, you cruel child eheheh. I hate electricity. I can do all sorts of stuff, but when it comes to electrical, only fixing power outlets is about enough.

[@psidvicious]

@@andrewalexander9492 Right, it was just that wind-up, spring-loaded kind, just designed to surprise your victim unexpectedly. I just can’t stand that feeling, let alone a REAL electric shock. I did have a friend that had a gag ball point pen that would give a real electric shock when you handed it to someone, but the end ‘you’ hold was insulated. I did notice that some people could grab the pen with minimal discomfort, but others (like me) instantly pulled away. I guess I’m just a woose when it comes to electricity 🤷‍♂️

[@ethanheyne]

I've known 3 people who didn't mind leaning up against an electric fence for a while. Me? One zap reboots my brain and I have to figure out where I am and what I'm doing; I hate it. My cousin woke up on his back in a muddy hole, looking up at a woman holding a shovel. Took him a few seconds to realize she wasn't burying him, just wondering if he was ok. They were digging a drainage trench in the rain, and he'd bumped his forehead against the hot wire with the fencer on its highest setting. Same cousin became a first responder and was trained what to do if he had to work near a down powerline, and then had to use that training. Electricity builds or powers first-world tech one way or another, and I'm grateful for it, but I'm happy to let others deal with it.

[@ulaB]

It also helps to write it down twice - once a little further down the line. I have seen a lot of wires getting stripped and cut to length when mounting, removing the insulation with the text... :)

[@trope5105]

i dont like the romex labeling, nope nope nope lol. im not a resi guy though, but im consistant in always labeling just the hot in most cases, specially resi. a little flag with a number , or legit label. a million ways to do it though, my number one rule is eliminate the variables, somethin this old man def does, which i respect, because almost nobody does. rule number 2 is dont fight it lol. far to much time is wasted triyn to make shit work when it takes less time to just replace or whatever, ,, ive seen a lot of ppl try n bend 4 inch grc in a ditch lol, neways, thats not revelent in this convo i guess haha

[@MrWaterbugdesign]

I used to use those light cans. Love the new low profile LEDs.

[@bob_frazier]

Yes, yes, and yes.

[@drewt3210]

In 2007 I had a faulty fixture batch. Had to replace all 87 cans in a house. From then on I only use "Remodel" cans that pop into drywall with spring clips. Tearing out all those cans--especially in bead board porch ceilings--was a painful lesson I'll never forget!

[@benjaminvivar7855]

Good looking work Cascade Electricians ! Keep it up.

[@essentialcraftsman]

Jeff and his crew are the best. I have used them for 25 years I think. Never a disappointment. Never a billing issue.

[@thetruth5210]

@@essentialcraftsman You made a mistake and told the truth there at the end. GC’s is not focused on the end-users experience, but is worried endlessly about their precious schedule, their pocketbook and making it to the end of that warrantee. We know at least one trade that you don’t respect after your ❤️on this video. I hope it was your son and not you, but just in case it wasn’t I’d rather be around somebody who swears like a sailor than one who thinks so precious little of his own fellow man. I’m glad you like your guy... I bet dimes to donuts there’s not a structured wire panel, the coax is RG6 (not quad-shield) with NO room for its bend radius in the box selected, and just like 25 years ago at the beginning of their professional relationship there is one piece of CAT5 that is ran like Christmas tree lights throughout the property for telephones (with a for sure stop in the kitchen and the master bedroom).

[@bobcougar77]

@@thetruth5210 Huh? I think i just read some kind of accusation of some sort but I read it twice and am still not sure. All the best

[@thomasprendergast6315]

@@thetruth5210 who are you? Have you ever seen one of Scott's houses before?

[@thomasprendergast6315]

@@bobcougar77 I agree.

[@RJT80]

My father was an estimator for almost 40 years in Chicago. I watched him do countless blueprints but the ten floors his company was bidding on for the Sears Tower was especially interesting. Planning something like that is far more intricate than most people would think. The knowledge of regulations is crazy.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

I do commercial and industrial estimating. Would love to have a chat with your dad...

[@harvestvillage695]

Especially in Chicago! Even in their residential houses all the wiring has to go through conduits (unions)!

[@garbo8962]

You are so correct about the drill possiblly hurting you hands & wrist. I used my dads old Skill 2/2" drill that we lost the screw in pipe like handle ( was not a pipe thread ). Drilled thousands of holes with it. On a custom million dollar house that I wired in had to drill 16 holes in entire length of long basement.Spent entire day drilling holes thru out this house and even with a new Greenlee self feeding nail eater bits my wrist were score for a few days.

[@BluntStuff]

I could've watched him wire those boxes all day. So efficient with those crimper/cutters.

[@colinstu]

Yeah man. It’s mesmerizing watching a pro do that.

[@dutchcreek1]

I learn so much from the information, what is said, but most of all, how it is said. New to the formalities of doing this as a business, a guy in his 50’s, starting over in life, and very thankful for your insights.

[@EricCampbellUAV]

it’s too late to start over. just survive shortly until you die

[@Lekky93]

As an electrician, I can say that this man is performing some clean work. There's a lot of hacks out there. But this guy is doing it right.

[@essentialcraftsman]

Yes!! Simon is a top hand! It kind of bothered him when I would insist on cleaning up the mess at the end of the day. He felt like he should do it and I had to be pretty direct to make him pack up his tools and head out without making sure everything was swept and tidy!

[@governmentsnizzinspector2305]

except for everything about the meter and service.

[@trope5105]

residential is the bottom of the barrel in complexity, but it def takes a decent amount of experience to make it go smooth with no hickups. i havent done a house in like 7 yrs now lol, ive done a few dumb things, but if i had to do a whole house, i would be knockin the rust off more than bustin ass. i wouldnt even know how to bid one really anmore lol. which is bad, because ive started my own gig, n need to get back in the market if i dont want to spend thousands to get into the industrial game, which is half the reason i quit my job. for a single guy its hard to meet ppl when ur livin that life. wyo electrical is a lot different than big city electrical, ten fold different really.

[@kevinrickard4830]

I’m an interior contractor in Ohio. I’ve traveled the states doing Sheetrock. I subbed several housing developments here in my area between Dayton/Cincinnati, when the housing industry was booming in the early 2000s. I now specialize in interior restoration. I turn new construction away. Water, fire, wind, whatever peril damages a structure. There’s a good number of restoration companies around. My guarantee is this. My customers may suffer sticker shock, but will never have buyers remorse!! A superintendent that’s worked for me for years says. “No one can do it better!!! We know we’re not the only ones that do this, there’s folks that can do as good! But not better! There’s just no such thing!! You guys at EC could say the same! Keep up the good work! The good work can be sold anywhere in the world!

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

I’d go one step further and ask that the HVAC go before the electrician.

[@evanmorgan1208]

Yeah I'm an electrician and the Plumbers always come first, HVAC second, Electricians third. Can't wrap my head around how the HVAC guy is going to run things around wires :D

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

@@evanmorgan1208 I'm sure on this job ALL of that has been figured out already. There aren't many GC's like the Essential Craftsman.

[@timothydillon6421]

The duct work went in the crawl space after they rolled the joists and b4 they put down the sub floor. The HVAC guys were thrilled to stand in a crawlspace and install duct at waist height.

[@itaintrocketscience]

Another electrician here Came to say the same thing.

[@jacobplank]

I'm an electrician too, and we prefer being there last to but a lot of times in our area that doesn't happen as they get in a hurry or the other trades don't show up when they are supposed to. But we definitely think of there need and stay out of there way , (most times)

[@peaceonearth9550]

I work for an alarm company. Most new alarm system can be wireless, but I believe camera should be hardwired. You get better high resolution cameras when they are hardwired. This is best time to run some Cat6 network cable to each corner of the house bedrooms(2nd flr bedrooms), prewire in low voltage box. I would leave them interior of the house back of the low voltage box same height as an outlet box. This will be an advantage for who ever is buying the house. I also believe in 2” PVC conduit from the crawl space to attic, this will be helpful in future for any upgrade.

[@boots7859]

Net engineer, and POE is correct and Cat6A is preferred for future-proofing. Run power and network to corners of the house. Power for PIR lighting, and network drops for cameras. Network drop near 1 or 2 electrical outlets per room. EMI should not be a problem for networked devices with Cat6A as long as you leave a little seperation if at all. Homerun all drops to a logical place for the router to be, which could be the MPOE or telco location. I would also run several extra drops for wireless access points in the attic/ceiling which will provide full coverage across the house, which will connect to your router/switch. Network infrastructure will increase the value of your house, increase reliability of your network, and both increase resale value and give you much better wifi coverage vs having a your ISP wifi router trying to cover your house and needing goofy wifi-extenders plugged in everywhere.

[@cjhification]

A well layed out distribution board/panel is a thing of beauty.

[@mdvener]

Electrician did a nice neat job. I'm a retired 40 year Electrician, I never used those quick connections in the can lights, wire nuts, no crimp sleeves in grounding, but most of all one of my fellow workers died of mouth cancer. He always held a few with his lips, galvanized staples. A couple shots it looked like he was carrying that way. Don't want to see any one go thru what he did. Although you will never see his wiring once drywalled, the rough in inspector will see some one who is proud of there work, he won't have to look very hard to find a violation, if there is. Very nice, n this coming from Boca Grande, Fl.

[@jasonhanson6563]

Hole Hogs are definitely a knuckle-smashing good time.

[@horsekid98367]

Or face, I made the mistake of getting my head between one and the deck above, it was a head smashing good time!

[@matthewhoffman9242]

@@horsekid98367 ow......., nearly twisted my wrist off and had the concrete drill slam my shin in the same pass while boring out a 4x4 and it was only a little concrete drill.... hadn't ever messed with one of the big hole hog style drills but i can only imagine the pain it caused.....again oww

[@jeffd2931]

ive knocked myself unconscious and off a ladder with a hole hawg, when they kick they sure kick like a mule

[@jeffd2931]

@shamp00p no one argued their reputation, and it is a great tool , but for that comment sir, your are a gigantic tool and a douche, nice job trying to massage your ego, ill put a vote in for ya in the "smartest man in the world" contest. douchebag

[@svensvrgen6336]

Roger that the super hogs have a clutch though and it seems to make it harder to get them caught like the original little hole hogs

[@dalerobert8202]

From Chicago area, every thing is piped. as a firefighter I like pipe. Now I live on the east coast, wire all over the place in my house, and houses are 3 times the cost.

[@NomenNescio99]

I'm living in Sweden, and we have really different standards and methods for cabling here. This was very interesting to see...

[@ripstick2217]

Code varies widely even throughout the US. Some areas require metal conduit instead of the type of wiring installed in the video.

[@BendeVette]

@@ripstick2217 In the netherlands all conduits are made out of pvc. Because most houses are made of brick, concrete, etc, they are all concealed (and kinda save from fire) within the wall. New cabling is easy, just pull in new wiring. Never understood the cabling as shown in this video.

[@spenserthomas3635]

@@ripstick2217 Conduit generally is used in commercial and industrial settings. Romex and Metal Clad (MC) is generally used in residential and light commercial. I don't think you'd see much conduit in residential unless it is a more expensive build as it much more expensive, with the exception of certain applications as required by the installation.

[@horsekid98367]

It's all about cost, romex ( as used here) is incredibly cheap and quick to install. Residential new construction electrical is a very competitive market, so keeping cost low is a major factor.

[@LxxHipNotTrickZz]

@@BendeVette ''New cabling is easy, just pull in new wiring.'' Have you ever tries to do this in flexible PVC conduits :P I wish you luck. With normal rigid PVC it isn't always that easy.

[@jeffpowell8308]

I sprained my left wrist a few years ago with my Milwaukee M18 regular drill trying to drill a 2 5/8" self feeding drill bit. I bought the M18 super hole hawg after that because it has a clutch to prevent the drill from reverse rotation if the bit binds up in the material. That bad boy is awesome!

[@RyanTaylor-pi8gq]

When I renovated my old beat up victorian, I was struck by how many of the difficult electrical decisions were made for me by code. There were obviously still points to think about concerning the location of double and three way switches, overhead light fixtures, etc, but in terms of outlets, I feel like it's difficult to comply with code and not end up in a house that's totally covered in outlets nearly everywhere.

[@codygooch510]

😂😂 literally everywhere. Even right there by your bathroom faucet.

[@RJG772]

Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to put this serious together.

[@haphazard1342]

Recommendation: I strongly advise the use of adjustable depth boxes in all locations, but especially for all outlets and switches in the kitchen and bathroom. These rooms most frequently have variable depth wall surfaces when finishes like tile are applied. Instead of having to use a box extender ring, which feels sloppy on new work, or guessing the final finished depth, just use an adjustable depth box. Doing this for all boxes in an installation adds a very modest upfront cost to the install, but will save both you, your subs and installers, and future contractors and homeowners a lot of minor annoyance (and potentially not insignificant trouble to retrofit). Client wants thicker drywall? Thicker tile? Decorative paneling over/instead of drywall? Moved a cabinet over an outlet? Accidentally put the box in too deep or too shallow? This is all easily remedied with an adjustable depth box.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

Seriously dude, that is overkill. Use those pricey boxes in kitchens and bath, for tiling. Otherwise, nope. There are inserts for future situations. Let the future homeowner pay for that.

[@haphazard1342]

Kitchen, bath, and exterior walls.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

@@haphazard1342 nope. Explain why you have to charge 1.50 to 2.50 more per outlet? To satisfy yourself??

[@evanmorgan1208]

Never seen anyone do that.

[@MasterHomeowner]

@Thomas Prendergast When you put it that way, I now approve of the adjustable depth boxes. But I'd charge more. Adjustable depth mud rings are another story. I just tried and like the "ReceptXtenders". But Arlington Fittings BE-1, etc are mandatory for truck stock.

[@terryslade4760]

I am from central Kentucky and I went to Roseburg, OR in Google maps and started looking for this site! I found it in less than 2 minutes! When I pressed my finger on the site it came up as Essential Craftsman spec house! So cool to see where you are! Enjoy watching you build this house!

[@cjhification]

Because you've had timber framed construction for so long it's interesting to see that metal staples are standard, to prevent premature collapse of wiring in the event of fire, this is only something very recently introduced in the UK, as when they where buried in masonry and plaster, as they were here traditional, it wasn't an issue.

[@mdhofstee]

The code only requires it to be laid flat. The method is not as important. The reason for that is safety of the homeowner. If after filling the stud bays with insulation and you put a nail or screw into the drywall it could nick or go into a wire. By having the wires on the side of a stud laying flat the chance of penetrating a wire is reduced. I have seen metal staples, metal staples with a insulation on it, plastic staples with two nails, you can even use zip ties. As long as the wire is laying flat against a stud and secured before going into a box, every few feet next to a stud it is legit.

[@horsekid98367]

It's my understanding that here in the US, the staples are used to keep the wiring in place during construction, so that it doesn't get pinched in drywall or hit by a screw. At least, that's what I've heard 😀

[@cjhification]

@@horsekid98367 it's fulfilling the same requirement, regardless of how it came about. Maybe if it wasn't done like that there would have been a lot higher numbers of firefighter deaths due to entanglement.

[@ryandarville5627]

Been following for a little while , and I was excited to see you finally talk about my trade in a full video. You nailed it! Awesome watch.

[@aerialrescuesolutions3277]

I really love how you set that panel into the exterior wall, nice and tidy and as clean as possible. The narration and editing are awesome. The electrician has skills for sure. His lack of safety glasses with all those chips flying was pretty too. To each their own, maybe his company doesn't require such items. Thank you for yet another great video. Keep up the great work. Jim Tree

[@dustindemoe2643]

I also noted the lack of safety glasses.

[@janderson8401]

@@dustindemoe2643 that was to make up for Scott wearing a respirator while cutting the fiber cement siding. Have to keep a certain level of danger or we trades people get bored😉

[@Sparky114HD]

As an electrician myself I have been waiting a long time for this video! I like to watch others in my trade work to see how they do things and if I can pick up any other tricks they may have. I love your channel always very positive and informative. If I’m ever in Oregon I’d love to meet you and sit down and have a cup of coffee. You remind me of my dads older cousin. He is a cabinet maker by trade but also dabbles in blacksmithing, auto restoration ,wood working, metal fabrication and many other things. I really enjoy visiting him and working with him in his shop. Keep up the good work! PS I do have a comment about the installation. Here In Arkansas where I live if we have a 400A service that will power two separate 200A panels we have to have a separate 400A MDP with two 200A breakers. One for each panel. I noticed y’all fed the 200A sub panel off the 200A main panel. That is strange to me because that 200A main feeder could potentially have 400A on it. Also the busbars in your main panel are only rated for around 200. This is another hazard in my opinion if you add any extra loads it can over load the buses. I could be completely wrong and y’all have thought about that. I was just curious and wondering about what y’all’s thoughts on that were? It’s just something I noticed

[@Edition89]

I've discovered with my OCD I would make an excellent electchicken who is always broke because the job would take 10x longer to do for the same price.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

Such as I was, when I started 35 years ago. God willin, and the creek don't rise, we all learn as we go along. My wife will tell ya, I was a mighty poor($) lectramagician. Lol

[@huntersinsulation]

as an insulation contractor, i'm excited to see that the rough plumbing and electrcial are coming along! Excited to see what you do with the insulation.

[@BruceLeanTrades]

how do you deal with insulation daily? im an apprentice electrician and dealing with it on a remodel every now and again kills me. 😂

[@huntersinsulation]

@@BruceLeanTrades lol, well... if you're talking about the itchy part of it? many newer fiberglass batts made these days are not itchy - like knauf insulation EcoBatts, and some new OC batts, other manufacturers like Certainteed I believe make versions as well. This is one of the reasons I prefer blown-in cellulose for residential attic insulation retrofit work, which I know other tradesmen dislike when they have to go in after us, but at least it's not itchy! I always try to make sure they won't be doing any remodels, repipes, recessed light installs, etc. and try to convince them to install a catwalk as well. If we're talking about existing insulation? Like demo-ing a wall or a ceiling and it has old fiberglass batts? Or you're working in an old attic with something SUPER itchy like blown-in rockwool from the '60s? I mean if you really wanna deal with it, get the disposable coveralls with good cut resistant gloves and duct tape your wrists and ankles. And if I'm doing something where there will be a lot of fibers very close to my eyeballs, I'll use anti-fog safety glasses, I like the Milwaukee ones. Of course you need a good respirator obviously. Now that I think about it, I guess the PPE is really what makes it doable. As far as being in an attic, I always wear boots like EC, with Dickies carpenter jeans and I always wear layers of shirts. I've found a longsleeve dri-fit type of shirt under a dark long-sleeve cotton works REALLY well, year-round. It's kind of like how they do it in the middle east. It keeps the sweat from evaporating from your skin and you just kina have this nice layer of cooling sweat all day. It sounds gross, but keeps you from dehydrating. It also keeps the insane amounts of dirt and insulation and old crumbled up asphalt from their last re-roof that got in the insulation from getting into your skin and clogging your pores too. That's how I deal with it lol

[@jpm1211]

Imagine the fun here in Chicago, where it all has to be in conduit (even residential)....

[@timothydillon6421]

I'm sure they would have utilized the crawlspace more.

[@davez2989]

Really? what is the rational with conduit? I suspect you see a lot of RWA line as well then, or is that frowned upon?

[@jpm1211]

@@davez2989 Union jobs, naturally. It's Chicago!

[@davez2989]

@@jpm1211 because non union can't run conduit?

[@jpm1211]

@@davez2989 More work, more hours, more money, more members, more dues!

[@ryanjackson2839]

I've been in the industry for 8 years now and i have never seen any information as good as yours on the topic of construction. i always make sure to catch your videos as they are produced. thank you for the vast knowledge and ideas from your channel. what a beautiful house you built as well keep it up EC!

[@charlesmiller5078]

I know you are going to pull communications ( computer ) cables before sheet rock. Pull cables for cameras ect also, you only get one chance to do this correctly.

[@stellarluna2637]

Agree ..I.built my cottage thinking and reading that wifi cams were the way of the future . They aren't. Too much reliance on signal and batteries

[@charlesmiller5078]

@@stellarluna2637 And very unsecured, cable if you possibly can, you cant install to many network cables. People would call us after their house was built and want network cables installed. If they would of called before drywall, 1500.00 after drywall, 7,000.00 if we even took the job. 1 days work, or 2 weeks works. You only get one chance. cable,cable,cable, all rooms, and where maybe you will mount cameras, very important stuff. And dont forget cable, he should have a communications room (small), where they all terminate, plainly marked. You can hack WiFi with a 80.00 device.

[@stellarluna2637]

@@charlesmiller5078 live and learn not worried about getting hacked but hate battery life and reliance on wifi service. Will remember next build.

[@mikeysgarage3697]

Could still hang the bright spark that wired our house 27 years ago, breaker for the downstairs lights also kills the sockets in two bedrooms. I've managed to trip the breaker in the house that feeds the garage a couple of times, without affecting the garage breaker panel itself!

[@colbymason8054]

Electricians, people who work in the dark,so you won't have too. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. 🎁🎄🍻🎶

[@thomasprendergast6315]

Thank, and Ho, Ho, Ho! Very appreciative

[@EricNielsen187]

At 5:30 the sparky is physically checking the other side of the joust with his hand before drilling thru. Respect. I've seen far too many tradesmen over the years drill thru water lines, ducts, wires and even a gas line.

[@johnsawatzky1755]

Have been waiting for the electrical install since the beginning of this series and I have to say it was very anticlimactic....also just because you have 2- 200 amp panels dose not mean you have 400 amp service.

[@vanillarain711]

I love watching skilled workers! These guys are clearly pros!

[@charlesward8196]

I love the reference to Larry Haun!

[@thomasprendergast6315]

Not me. He's a carpenter.

[@totherarf]

I started off as a spark in the UK. 40 years later I work on big stuff .... but half was on domestic. We used to tell people to work out where they could possibly want to use an electrical piece of kit ... and Double it! Sockets are run in ring circuits so it does not matter where you plug a piece of kit in and there is only so much kit you would want to use at a time. Eventually it evolved from the one circuit covering 100 sq m to one circuit upstairs another downstairs and a third in the kitchen (where the heavy load is). Typically you get a single phase 100A supply but if you need more you can get 3 phase 100A! The largest load you can run from a socket is 13A (3 KW) and our mains pannels are a third of the size of yours. The distribution network is also different here in the UK with a typical substation having circuits running from a 400 A fuse and supplying hundreds of houses from each sub ..... usually in an underground installation! Nice to see different ways of doing things!

[@Connecticutsparky]

How did I know there would be a corded hole hawg here 😂. I still have nightmares from that dark era of electrical work lol

[@chrismoody1342]

As a long time HVAC guy I preferred the way an admired general contractor handled the three main subs, HVAC, plumbing and electrical. When ready for us to start, we would all meet up for a walk thru. Room by room we would proceed thru marking all fixtures locations, switches, outlets and all the return air chases and registers locations. You can’t believe how many potential problems were solved prior to work starting and not getting each other’s way. We all knew exactly what the other guy needed and his route. He had the plumber and hvac subs start first followed by the electrician. HVAC trunk and branch lines are large and often difficult enough to work around and thru the truss floor framing. The plumbing of course, the next largest needed grade thru the floor trusses and a path to his risers coming up to the concrete floor. So we would work closely with each other. The electrical work followed up after us. Other than his box and fixture location, the wire path is Inconsequential. Big boys first !!

[@kennethwright8081]

It’s a shame that the electric meter is having to live on the street side of the house. Where I live they are always on the side or back of the house’s. I guess that’s where the landscaping crew can come and plant a bush to hide it 😂.

[@zbrown72]

This

[@BendeVette]

In the Netherlands (and I think a lot of countries in Europe) these boxes are inside the house, mostly next to the front door, nicely hidden behind a door. What's the reason they are outside?

[@horsekid98367]

Regarding the location of the meter, they are generally placed on the exterior of the building to allow easy access to the utility to read it. With smart meters, this is less important but still allows for easy access vs scheduling with the homeowner for access.

[@wim0104]

@@BendeVette tradition. here in Texas, it is custom to plant a prickly plant in the way.

[@999torino]

@@wim0104 lol!

[@jackshadow325]

My advice: 1) Leave some extra wire outside of each box just in case one is cut in the box by the drywallers and you need to pull some more in. 2) Save time by not writing on each wire entering a box. Just write on the studs what each switch is for and notch the switch legs accordingly with your pliers. One notch for the switch on the left, two notches for the switch on the right, etc. All other wires are power in - power out and don’t need a label.

[@sean6077]

Nice Larry Haun reference. I've probably watched him build that house 5-6 times, now.

[@whiggins101]

Me too! Does anyone know where the house is Haun used in the video series?

[@joelongrid7625]

Excellent video. Always a fan of bringing a sub panel into the house especially when the main is in the garage. Heavy power goes to the main panel and lighting and receptacles go to sub panel, mostly anyway. Your electrician is a true pro. PS: I was offended as an electrician when they started color coding the sheath on NM cable. Now that I am 50 and watching this stuff on the tube, I have a simple appreciation for it.

[@tropifiori]

In building my last house I asked the builder not to install any light switches as no lights are ever turned off in my house anyhow. I tried to get him also to not install a meter, but he wouldn't do that either.

[@junkmail1262]

That’s funny. We never have lights turned on. Only light on is the flat screen. It puts out enough light to cover 3 rooms LOL

[@ChristiannTyler]

This is crazy to watch.. I’ve only ever ran conduit (commercial/industrial) to see how fast all these circuits can be ran is just awesome.

[@tylerkammerer4932]

I don't think I've ever seen a recessed meter before, but I have seen recessed panels and they are not a good idea. if you want to change or add something it's a pain after the drywall is added. Also the hvac typically is finshed before the electrical rough in. And where are the service loops!? What do they do it the drywaller hits the wire when they cut the holes?

[@jeremiahbrown4344]

When I was was a HVAC installer we used "spot" all register and return air grills before cutting holes. That made sure we didn't hit anything behind the drywall :)

[@tylerkammerer4932]

@@jeremiahbrown4344 I can only think of one time that the tin wasn't in before starting the electrical, and it was because the HVAC guys where behind

[@ubrayj02]

Panel in garage will likel have a drywall patch removed and replaced in the future. Panel under the stairs - either the drywall above or below the panel and underneath the stairs willbhave a rectangle removed OR there is access from the basement crawlspace into the wall cavity. Honestly, unless the remodel ezpected is huge, I doubt this will ever become an issue. 400A service is bonkers

[@JustinL614]

If you know how to snake a wire it's not that hard to add it in after but most of the time when we do recessed panels everything is in by the time they are closed up.

[@JVMBeatz]

Very pleased to see the electrical video, was getting worried it might be skipped. Thanks for making excellent videos on the construction process.

[@Jack-yl7cc]

I hope there is more dedicated circuits going to the kitchen than I saw in the vid; perhaps they are in that second interior panel? At the very least I would like to see a dedicated circuit just for the microwave because if the future homeowner buys a 1500-watt microwave then it goes from a nice to have, to a must have.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

Yould like see. Hmmm. Just zactly who are you?

[@ubrayj02]

Yeah man, modern NFPA-70 kitchen circuits are nuts. You can easily get 5 or 6 circuits just for the kitchen.

[@JeremyHansen]

I've been out of the electrical game for some years now, but I'm pretty sure if the microwave is a mounted one, a dedicated microwave circuit is required by the NEC. Then you require at least 2 small appliance circuits, the dishwasher/disposal circuit, lighting circuit, and a 220v for the range. Sometimes the fridge will be on one of the small appliance circuits, or it might be looped in with a circuit with something like a freezer in the garage.

[@schwiftyoliver77]

I'm an apprentice electrician in Oregon and have been looking forward to this video for some time! Keep up the good work!

[@richardclapp9875]

I know I’m an old electrician , but you can’t beat a Square D QO breaker box and metal outlet and switch boxes

[@RealFifty]

I feel like this is a joke LOL

[@blueoval250]

I’ve had QOB breakers fail to trip with a dead short many many times. I agree with the metal boxes.

[@incognitotorpedo42]

I hate cheesy Carlon boxes. I love the smooth corner metal boxes, but you have to add a ground to them. Good plastic boxes exist, and are a reasonable option.

[@TheRiddler491]

Been loving this series. I am really excited for the drywall and painting videos. I do painting contracting and light drywall work. I love seeing different videos to see how I can do things differently, and have people talk about the process. Keep it up!

[@chaseweeks2708]

I am now reconsidering switching to T-studs instead of LSL's, and truss joists instead of I-joists when I build our retirement home. Would make it a helluva lot easier to route... pretty much everything.

[@HuckFlynn]

DYIer with OCD here and I'm just finishing up wiring my basement. I am both just impressed as hell at the beauty of his work -- and jealous that he's at least 2-3 times faster than I am while doing it. Love watching a professional. Great video as always.

[@bahopik]

In my neck of the woods, common courtesy is to let heating guys run their stuff first as it is the biggest, and electricians are last ones as their is the smallest and easiest to work around other trades

[@tonyskillz]

Screw the HVAC guys- plumbers have absolute priority, water has to drain and breath correctly

[@warrenmichael918]

@@tonyskillz yep we always went first as plumbers can NOT make water drain uphill!! Then usually the hvac guys get their ducting all installed so the sparky patrol can run the lightning wires around the ducting and plumbing.

[@fondupot]

Glad to see you using PPE while cutting the concrete-fiber siding. Love the channel guys. Looking forward to the final product.

[@ADVBear]

It's so strange to see that the wires run through the walls without going inside a main conduit. Here in Brazil, we use flexible hoses to run cables and wires from electric point to electric point and then to the breaker box. It seems more secure and it's also easier to run additional wires if needed, using a probe. But alas, it's definitely much more work and our buildings are almost always brick and mortar (terrible, horrible insulation and shock-resistance). It's very uncommon to see framing and drywall in a typical construction here. We only use it to divide a room, for example.

[@hjvisagie]

Same here in RSA

[@leekazuya1305]

interesting... running conduit is optional in Canada as well, we just use romax or bx cable to rough-in, and most of our houses are wood frame or steel stud framing, it is definitely inferior compare to cor-line or emt pipe, but it is way faster and less expensive, some of my co-workers from Europe told me that their code does not allow cables as a rough-in option, so they have to cor-line, PVC, EMT pipe everything.

[@ckm-mkc]

When I was doing houses in Europe, everything was run through conduit. Makes upgrading far easier. In the Netherlands, a lot of buildings are aerated concrete blocks (even interior walls). There is no wall cavity, so you wind up using a router to make channels for conduit which are then backfilled with a mortar mix... Wire is pulled when all the conduit is laid. In rural France, you see quite a lot of surface mount conduit as old houses were never designed for electrical and are often either masonry or 'torchis', a type of adobe construction that is harder than cement.

[@FishFind3000]

Same in illinois. Everything needs to be protected in hard conduit or armored cable.

[@hornetIIkite3]

@@ckm-mkc actually the light concrete bricks are used less and less in the Netherlands. All drywall or metal stud walls now. A lot of electricians use pre-wired flexible pvc pipe now. No need to pull wires with a spring anymore. In industry grey 22mm impact resistant pvc tube is used. Usually they run a ymvk cable through that. They just mount that on the wall or cable rails

[@Xander-dx6mw]

I just split my main panel between two 200amp locations. I did my own work, and a few things I saw your electrician do would not pass inspection here. My inspector had us re-pull so there were no more than 3x 12-2 romex in any hole. I also made all outlets true 20 amp plugs.

[@arlenmargolin1650]

If you've got a lot of caulking to do and painting it's always advisable to prime all your raw wood before you caulk, you're adhesion rate will be far more successful

[@MandoFettOG]

I believe that was primed

[@rpavlik1]

And I'm pretty sure it wasn't actually even wood but some kind of composite or at least manufactured wood

[@besearchingforwisdom6267]

I watched 4 times in a row. I love your series, insights, narration, everything. I'm a very fortunate guy to have found it

[@natej6671]

Give us some more details on why you choose that spot for the meter, the spot for the Panel and why you went with a sub panel. I figured 200 amp would have been enough.

[@justin71069]

I did a 200 amp main and 200 amp sub at my last home (retrofit upgrade). I guess it's not a common configuration because I got a lot of confused comments about it from trades people over the years ("What's the point of this?" "Why a 200 amp sub instead of 60 amps or 100amps?" "This is overkill" and of course my favorite "You can't have a 200 amp sub on a 200 amp main! The main needs to be 400 amp for that to work!"). Basically 200 amps total in the system provides plenty of power for a house this size but one panel doesn't provide enough breaker slots for a really ideal install. For example, I had a separate branch for the regular living room outlets and another breaker for the TV/AV bank of outlets. There's no code reason to do that but it's beautiful to have a dedicated branch for AV equipment where the power is unlikely to be affected by anything else that's happening. Doing extra circuits avoids ever having to worry about too much load being on one or about having interference from usage (ie, lights flicker when someone runs a garbage disposal or something). The other reason to do a sub is to avoid having to run romex for every branch all the way back to the main panel. EC put the sub into the center of this house so for every outlet and light that's closer to the sub, you can save a lot of copper by running to the sub panel rather than having to go all the way back to the main. It's a really nice setup.

[@timrich6755]

And my house has one 60 Amp panel. I can't imagine why 200 amps is helpful with an efficient house and natural gas.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

@@timrich6755 it isn't. 60 is just fine, but old. Most municipalities/poco's require 100 minimum, just to simplify everything. And, if you have a 60, good on you. Just make sure the connections and insulation is still good. All mechanical, even wire, has a usable life.

[@MasterHomeowner]

1. This is a 200 amp service, not a 400 amp service for those who might have missed that. 2. 100 amp services are the minimum per NEC except for a very small structure. I'm getting into the what on that. 3. If the calculated load is larger than 100, then you have to be larger than 100. And anything between a 100 amp and a 200 amp service panel is more expensive than a 200 amp service panel. 4. Feeding a 200 amp subpanel from a 200 amp panel eliminates the requirements for a breaker upstream or downstream of the feeder. As in you can use pass through lugs to main lugs.

[@rolfbjorn9937]

@@timrich6755 Stove 30A, Fridge 15A, Dryer 30A, Washer 15A, Dishwasher 15A, Microwave 15 A, Heating and cooling systems and lighting are not even there and you've exceeded 100A. Natural gas is less efficient than electricity* (outside of third world countries, or the US where inefficient thermal power plants are still in use) and not available everywhere (and it's availability does not mean that you should use it)

[@bamabackroads1203]

As a drywall guy it makes me smile to see him properly stripping the outer sheath, and stuffing the wires in the box. The guys around here don't remove the outer sheath and the leave about five miles of romex hanging out of the box. We try to get them stuffed in far enough to not hit them with the router when we cut the box out, but sometimes there's so much wire in there it can't be helped. I always ask them if they get paid by the foot of wire. Most if them around here have never even seen a staple either.

[@matthewwright57]

No matter what you think, the garage needs at least 3 dedicated circuits, and an outlet every 4 feet. Preferably a 240V stub as well, just in case someone owns a real tablesaw.

[@thomasprendergast6315]

Matthew, you just don't understand how this works, do you? This is a spec home. Scott is building a house to sell to an unknown buyer. That buyer may never use a 240volt circuit in their lives, if they have gas water heat and dryer. Why would you add cost, with a huge chance of no return? Plus... plus, I say, your idea takes a very nice and profitable job away from my brother sparks, adding g those circuits and being paid service rates. Rather than charging Scott resi construction rates. Heck, he can't charge for what you want to install

[@rolfbjorn9937]

@@thomasprendergast6315 I think you are the one who doesn't. Having those extra features is a good selling point. Also, electric vehicles, garage shops and other exterior features might require this power and are fairly common. A smart builder will implement them, and it will pay. If we were to follow your logic properly, we should modify the building codes in such a way that everything barely holds to create extra jobs. Also, I don't think that adding a cable run or two while everything is open is needless expense, it's careful planning.

[@johnwaby4321]

Good idea to put in another fuse box as keeps the cable lengths shorter.. on the canke grounds in the fuse box are they installed in the grounding bar in the same order as the circuit breakers .. looking good ..

[@oelschlegel]

400a is definitely planning for the future. The garage could easily charge a Tesla.

[@danielwolf2192]

It's not a 400 amp. It's a 200 amp service with a sub panel for more breaker space.

[@MarkRose1337]

​@paquitos hammer There was a time when anything over 50 amp was considered overkill for a house. But now a Tesla charger ideally gets 60 amps (at 240 v) to itself, then an AC may need 30 amps, the water heater 30 amps, the oven/range 50 amps, the dryer 15 amps. That's already 185 amps. 200 amp service is the bare minimum I'd put in a new build. If it were my place, I'd spec a 400 amp main panel and service.

[@rentbennett]

@@MarkRose1337 At least a couple of those will be natural gas in this house, so they should be pretty comfortable with 200a. But if you were going electrical for everything, having at least the main drop be 400a wouldn't be overkill.

[@paulehlers2225]

Love seeing so many 20A-12ga circuits. Some of the things I've learned over the years.1. When you think you have enough outlets, add some more, now is the time to do it. You'll thank yourself in the years to come. 2. Bathroom, Kitchen & garages should all be 20A outlet circuits, these are the areas that the high load stuff get's plugged into. 3. Because I love my power tools, every garage/shop should have several 220V outlets, you never know when you will acquire another 220v tool and it seems like there's never an outlet close to where you want to place it. Another great video!!!

[@misterhat5823]

I'm fairly sure bathroom and kitchen must be 20A to meet code.

[@wesleyhamstreet1]

A questions that I have always had: How many holes can be drilled through studs and joists before they compromise the integrity of the structure? Does spacing matter?

[@stevenbiars4817]

Spec sheets are usually provided by the beam manufacturer on glue-lam beams.

[@TrekkerMoto]

Gotta read up on local code. Here in california, size of hole is is limited to 40% of width of stud on load bearing and exterior walls, 60% on interior non load bearing. There are some exceptions. As for how many holes you can drill, I do not believe there is any limitations, but I've read in some books that holes should not be within 2 inches of each other, but not seen it in the code.

[@JRT909]

Love your channel. Nice to see an electrical episode. As an electrician in Canada it’s very interesting to see the methods used in your state.

[@gzfelix]

I'm surprised ethernet cables aren't built-in.. in a large house wired connections are still kinda necessary.. especially for those technology minded type families. I would certainly want a CAT-6a shielded cable in all my rooms if I can help..

[@familiefossa2622]

I was going to ask the same! Was also wondering why no comments on Smart Home !

[@js1600]

That what I was thinking, maybe that part is yet to come.

[@pileofstuff]

They're not done yet.

[@markdammes1947]

@@pileofstuff I think these episodes are lagging 4 months ish. They were filmed around September

[@claneksi3]

In the latest Q&A episode they confirmed that they run cat6 cables 'thoroughly' throughout the house.

[@choimdachoim9491]

I like running electricity...it's fun making the plan and it's cleaner work than most construction work. Also, I like using chases instead of drilling hundreds of holes through the framing. It saves tons of time. I like chases for plumbing too. I incorporated them into my home design when I built my house...they were kind of an architectural aspect. It's a lot easier to open a chase for plumbing repair or electrical modification than it is to rip out drywall.

[@stellarluna2637]

Pot light cans? Are LED lights not the industry standard in most new homes now? Thin and sleek, energy efficient and last forever. No heat cans needed. No Brainer. House looks great though .

[@ElectricianGreg]

They will put led trim in there surely. Also some people like the trim to be more recessed, and don’t use led trim for that reason

[@stellarluna2637]

@@ElectricianGreg we ll see , they look like halogen cans . No need for deep cans with LED

[@MasterHomeowner]

The LED retrofit kits with a standard housing has less glare than a wafer LED. We built a test ceiling to test this.

[@stellarluna2637]

@@MasterHomeowner most LEDs have an adjustable "glare" level. Or good ones do. Seems like a lot of extra work is all I'm saying .

[@TheKenstarr]

These are the cans I use. Now and again we do new construction with the flat "canless" LED lights.

[@Acu6]

In Austria we use PVC Hose for E-Installations, and we pull our wires through it. Also i think wires are much cheaper than cables. You do have also the advantage if you need to add more sockets or switches in your house or flat. And yes, if we put wires in concrete- or masonrywalls, they wont last long.