eSUN Matte PLA Filament. How Matte? How Strong? Print Settings and Printing Tips!

[@EmbraceMaking]

This video is getting a bit old - I've since used the latest eSUN Matte and it is a lot better now. The matte black PLA prints super nice on the K1C and V3 models from Creality. If you'd like to support my work, check out the links below for the best prices on printers and filament. As an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) eSun Matte PLA (new formula!) ► amzn.to/47Evkf5 Official Creality Store (K1C NEW!) ► shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2504941&u=3650799&m=124834&urllink=&afftrack= ► amzn.to/4e84i23 eSUN PLA+ (Another one of my favorite filaments): ► amzn.to/3QA4tuq Polymaker PolyTerra PLA (Another semi matte finish option) ► amzn.to/3sdhK1x eSUN PLA+ (One of my favorite filaments): ► amzn.to/3QA4tuq Electric Screwdriver: ► amzn.to/3JRbbZe Velcro Tie Wrap Rolls ► amzn.to/42jr3dX

[@DieGurkee]

I tried your settings after i purchased a roll of Dual-Matte-PLA. They dosent work anymore. After a bunch of fails (mostly underextrusion) i had the glorius idea to try the build in eSun-PLA settings in Prusa slicer... Worked perfectly flawless :-D A disclaimer would be nice before your outdated video...

[@firecatinblack]

I bought this filament a few days before this video came out and couldn't find anything at all on the internet about it besides the esun website. My regular pla settings had so extreme under extrusion my benchy was barely recognizeable as a benchy anymore and it took me a while to figure out how to get a somewhat decent quality off it. Cranked up temperature and slowed down the speed and got better results but never got rid of the inconsistent extrusion causing gaps in the layers. I am glad i just found this video, I hope i can get the quality of prints off this filament now i do off any other pla too, the matte finish makes it so worth it for me experimentating with. Great in depth video!

[@EmbraceMaking]

Thanks! It is definitely more challenging to print with, let me know if your experimentation yields any positive results!

[@kai2937]

for those who are wondering, Embrace Making probably got a much earlier batch of ePLA. I was also having a lot of issues, sometimes even worse (that roll was a very old roll from my research lab). I then did contacted my local vendor to ask about such issues and he explains that esun messed up the earlier batches and the later batches (usually comes in their recyclable paper spools instead) won't have this issue. I decided to buy it and try and it works fine with default setting, and i would even go to say it prints better then normal cheapo brandless filament. To sum this up, be wary when you buy ePLA from esun, if it's old stock, you probably will meet with a whole plethora of issues, but the newer ones will not have any more issues. Hope this helps!

[@Gildofaal]

Thank you for the heads-up. I just ordered my very first printer together with this filament, and just now found this video. And I'm not going to lie, the video kind of scared me. But I looked at the order again, and it specifically says that it is on a paper spool. So I guess I'm in luck.

[@d3w4yn3]

Wow! This was very therapeutic for me to see! I really couldn't get it dialed in, this was my first purchase of any matte pla, and I had the same problems you did for sure! Going to make some changes based on your details here, you saved me from tossing the spool and never coming back to it!

[@EmbraceMaking]

Glad it was helpful!

[@serviceteam1615]

Hello. I got good results with 205C and reducing the speed a lot (40 mm/s) Also this filament is less dense as the regular PLA so it slips more on the gears causing some under extrusions on the parts. I reduce the speed until the clicking noise on my extruder stops. Nice video...

[@EmbraceMaking]

Thanks for the comment! Yes, I mention that the density is lower but I didn't find that mine was slipping. I took a look for grinding at the extruder gear and found none... I'll try and print even slow and give it a try though!

[@MiguiMonkey]

Great video! I am glad that I'm not the only one having issues with this! Just started 3D printing this week, bought the eSUN matte peach pink and it's more challenging than regular PLA. I will try your advice for the settings, hopefully it'll perform better on my Ender 3 V2. Thanks!

[@EmbraceMaking]

Thanks! Someone else in the comments section suggested to also try printing slower. Give that a try as well!

[@kasperlg]

Thanks! Printing landscape models with the matte white and this vid really helps on fine tuning filament setting!

[@EmbraceMaking]

Great to hear! It's not easy to work with!

[@gadofwar4574]

Maybe I got lucky, but I have been printing with this filament for a long time, standard PLA settings from cura, Artilley Genius Pro, and not a single problem, the look is amazing, I love it

[@EmbraceMaking]

Glad someone found it easy! lol so many people seem to be struggling!

[@dineshpushpavanam7453]

@GadOfWar, what's the diameter of your filament? It's possible you received one of the good 1.75mm batches.

[@gadlopez9699]

@@dineshpushpavanam7453 well, I have used like 3 or 4 rolls, 1kg, 1.75mm. Not a single problem yet 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@wylde007]

Bonzer! Thank you so much for your video. I purchased B3G1 eSun matte ePLA on eBay and started printing with it almost as soon as it arrived. I print mostly minis, structures, and terrain for tabletop (D&D) gaming. My first print of a mini came out pretty well, supports worked well, and only a little stringing. My second, third, fourth, and fifth prints within the same calendar day and experienced fail after fail with nozzle drag, underextrusion, and bed adhesion. I am printing on an AnyCubic Vyper and still dialing in my defaults for their standard PLA product, which seems to be about a middle-of-the-road quality so far. It has taken me a couple of weeks to get prints at 0.125 and 0.12mm to lay down miniatures that I consider satisfactory. Still getting a fair amount of stringing on finer details, but slowly dialing it in. I am going to try some tests at scale with the flow rate cranked up to between 105% and 110% with the higher initial buildplate temperature and see how it goes!

[@EmbraceMaking]

Thanks! Let me know if you ever get it dialed in and figured out completely, a lot of people would be interested in your settings!

[@wylde007]

I sent an email to eSun and complained. They said they were aware of issues with printing this filament. I went to Harbour Freight this morning and bought a 6" digital caliper. In checking the diameter on two of four spools, I found it to be wildly inconsistent. eSun's response to me suggested the following: Use PVP glue on the buildplate. Run first layer(s) at 10-15mm/s. Use temperature of 210° and below 40mm/s movement OR run 225°-230° at 40-50mm/s. They claim that the next run/batch of filament will take into account consumer feedback. I ran a medium-sized minifigure and it came out usable with the recommended settings. I still think I have some tweaking to do on the travel and retraction, but it was superior to all the other fixes I tried so far.

[@thenextension9160]

On my x1c I use esun pla+ profile. Great results. Love this filament. It’s like the finish of carbon fiber pla without the cost and wear and tear on printer.

[@EmbraceMaking]

PLA+ from eSun is my go to filament these days. This matte version didn't work out for me at the time of this video but I believe eSun has corrected all of the issues with it and I may have to try it again

[@Nikkicrafter55]

Thank you so much for this video!! I thought I was just stupid or like I sucked at 3d printing! I just got my ender 3 v2 and I got this filiment and I can't get the filiment to stick for the life of me 🥲 I tried all these setting but it's just not working.

[@EmbraceMaking]

This is apparently a very difficult filament to work with despite regular PLA being the easiest. eSUN makes great PLA+ filament, I use it for so many other projects so I would recommend starting there instead. I did another video on D3D matte filament if you're looking for matte colors, it is easier to worth with than the eSUN matte but still some minor challenges from time to time and you have to print slow (plus limited colors). Another good brand that is more matte than regular PLA is Polymaker Polyterra PLA... and that brand has a huge range of colors to choose from at least! Prints very easy as well

[@101stsurvivor]

This stuff is my absolute favourite, i print it on my prusa with the default prusament pla profile and it's some of the most flawless printing filament i use. Unsure how it'd translate to other machines but it's definitely a preset to try if you haven't already.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Interesting, I don't have any of this material left but I'd have to check out the default prusament settings ... good to know ....

[@101stsurvivor]

@@EmbraceMaking another thing to note is it likes a very light touch by the extruder. It's lower density than regular pla so can be easily crushed by the gears.

[@-a6833]

Same, it's probably the nicest filament to print with that I've used on my ender 3v2, also I did not experience the discrepancies in filament diameter, mine is/was fine it seems.. I do have to say that mine have all come on a cardboard spool instead of a plastic spool, so maybe they've revised the filament since then also

[@KresimirJelusic]

white pla works great with my prusa mk3 as well .. prusament preset

[@WutipongWongsakuldej]

I've got the matte pink one, and ended up a dozen of roof-less benchy lol. Still figuring out how to get it to work. Thank you for the information you have provided. I'll try to adjust as you've suggested.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Try pumping up the extrusion multiplier and see if it helps

[@Geneobot]

7:08 Is this a printed hot end shroud? If so where can I find it?

[@SeanSeanomom]

I’ve been finding similar issues with my light blue matte, but not tried the extrusion multiplier or measuring the width yet. But really useful thank you.

[@vanludwigarreola4836]

fast forward sept 2023, i bought this epla matte from esun, maybe they heard your complaint on undersize filament, now when i measure it it is 1.78mm, much better than undersize, just need to adjust my nozzle in lower temp... Thanks

[@EmbraceMaking]

Glad they got it worked out eventually!

[@IDidItAtHome]

Thank you! Had so much issues with this filament. I am using a Artillery Sidewinder X1, and 230 degrees initial and 225 rest. Bed at 55 degrees and 135% flow at start. Works like a charm :) Would much rather prefer eSUN PLA+, which was a whole lot easier to print..

[@EmbraceMaking]

Yes it would seem that you really have to increase the flow rate for some weird reason!

[@ericolofsson]

​@@EmbraceMaking The diameter seems to bee way off anything from 1.70-1.74 on mine.

[@evoke2104]

Great video, tried your settings and my eSun Matte PLA is printing pretty nicely now.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Great to hear!

[@vttrung207]

Hi. What is slicer in this video?

[@EmbraceMaking]

I use PrusaSlicer for all of my printers.

[@Leburninator]

Thank you for this clip. I am using Ender 5 Plus with Micro Swiss Direct Drive. I have to crank the temp all the way up to 230c and slow down to about 22.5 mm/s. It's printing well now just with some of stringing.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Good to know, I'm going to try going really slow but I was hoping that wouldn't be the case!

[@DZ181]

I purchased the ePLA-Matte, being having loads of issues, really bad lines, these were very noticeable for what should look lesser as its matte. I ended up going back to Creality and buying some of their PLA I was was sick of spending all my time battling with the eSun filament

[@Jauphrey]

Bless you, haha. I thought I was going insane, then started switching between PLA and imagining I was getting the same issues but it was other stuff OR WAS IT?! And yes. It was coincidentally timed but unrelated issues messing with my other PLA. The matte stuff was indeed just being a pain. It prints beautifully insofar as the output goes. These prints have such a nice look to them, but ultimately it wasn't worth the cost of getting it to work for me personally.

[@Jauphrey]

Also for those considering matte PLA, I'm a painter for a living and often paint my prints anyway so I am very biased in terms of how tolerant I am of print convenience vs appearance. If you want a matte appearance and don't paint, I'd venture this stuff is worth the effort. :)

[@EmbraceMaking]

Good point! And I'm glad you got your issues sorted out :)

[@trapperkreeper6105]

I have 2 rolls of this stuff and have referenced this video before. This video helped but I'm still having inconsistent results. One question I have, is the "extrusion multiplier" the same thing as "flow" in Cura? I did bump up the flow to around 115 and that helped a bit. I don't even need perfect results as I'm planning to resin coat and paint my parts, but I can't even get anything of size to make it past an hour of print time before turning into spaghetti

[@EmbraceMaking]

I'm not as familiar with Cura but yes I believe those two are the same... I think this is going to be the only reasonable fix for this filament as I think the quality control on this stuff is really poor or something else weird is going on with it. So many people have had issues.

[@trapperkreeper6105]

@@EmbraceMaking I thought I had it dialed in a few days ago. I tweaked the profile soo much until I was getting decent and actually started thinking I liked the stuff until it quit extruding mid print on a job. I thought my nozzle was clogged until I noticed the extruder wasn't griping the filament. I pulled the filament and checked it with my calipers and it was 1.5mm! My Ender 3 extruder won't even adjust tight enough to grip that. I'm done with it. It's a shame really, I love that it's so light weight and the layer lines are so minimal, but the diameter inconsistencies are a deal breaker for me

[@EmbraceMaking]

I hear you, so frustrating!

[@AshBashVids]

To get the 1st layer to somewhat stick, I had to set first layer temp to 230c, bed to 60c and 1st layer speed to 20mms. Even then it will have issues with small details. Maybe it doesn't like PEI beds?

[@EmbraceMaking]

No idea... I was using glass and glue stick and it wasn't ideal either... something about this filament is very strange. Does your first layer look under extruded?

[@AshBashVids]

@@EmbraceMaking a little bit over in my case, had to dial back the flow rate Once I did get it to stick to the bed, it does print fine... it's just allergic to sticking to anything but itself.

[@spidartree]

Thanks for this very helpful video! I just bought this filament here in the Philippines and have been getting the exact same problems... All of the other esun filaments that I used have been consistently great to work with. But this matte filament just lowered my expectations.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Hope the video helped a bit, it clearly isn't as easy as the regular PLA+ ! I'm glad I'm not the only one who had some trouble

[@buraionline]

Same sentiments! What settings did you used that worked best? I'm having troubles with the filaments sticking properly on the bed and while it's traveling. I got frustrated that I wished I didn't tried this because of the price and texture

[@spidartree]

@@buraionline I decided to give this filament another try just so it won't go to waste but it's still very frustrating. I cleaned out my dual gear extruder, put in a new bowden tube and nozzle, but it still slips a little, no matter how tight it's squeezed. I have it set to 230C nozzle, 60C bed, 40mm/s, no retraction, concentric bottom layer. Sometimes it extrudes too much, other times too little, even if the flow % is increased. So far I can only make small vases successfully, while more complex objects keep making the extruder skip.

[@buraionline]

@@spidartree does a lower bed temp make the filament stick much better or should it be higher? I can't print taller items because of this bed adhession problem. Can't even get past 2mm in height

[@spidartree]

@@buraionline I think the bed temperature doesn't affect the adhesion that much. I'm using a glass bed and auto bed leveler and it sticks very well. I just had to set the probe offset so that the nozzle is nice and close to the bed.

[@thurat09]

Thanks for the thorough video. I've been trying to get the matte mint to work, and it's been a thoroughly frustrating experience. I'll give some of your tips a try and see if I can't make it work!

[@EmbraceMaking]

You're welcome, please come back and let me know if they work for you, or if you figure anything out !

[@thurat09]

@@EmbraceMaking I'm in a bit of hell week with school, but as soon as I get some reprieve I'll be sure to report back 😁

[@Scuba128]

I've got the same filament and two failed prints with it. Which is how I found this video looking to see if I just wasted money. I'll definitely try these tips as well.

[@AndrewAHayes]

Did you use the part cooling fan for the initial layers also? I also noticed my layers were bad and have had to print at 235c° when using the Matte PLA.

[@EmbraceMaking]

I never use the part cooling fan for the first 3 layers for any filament I've used... I would avoid it as you will likely harm first layer adhesion and cause warping

[@zallibik9931]

What slicer software was it that you were using in this video ?, and thank you so much for the indepth review of this filament I was having issues with mine ( I have White , Black and Pink) on the pink spool I have not yet tried the Black or White, I'm about to try a rerun with increased temperature (was running AT 215) as i was getting either clogging or it was failing to pass the extruder because the filament is simply to thin and was spinning and grinding, into the 1.60mm's at some points. Excellent video thank you, subscribed and notifications on.

[@EmbraceMaking]

I use PrusaSlicer for all of my printers right now. Sounds like you are struggling with a lot of the same issues right now! If you get anything sorted out, be sure to come back and post your solutions for others to read. Thanks for subscribing!

[@johnfarrell3171]

Greetings with the best for '22. Wanted to touch base via this vid as it's your most recent although it pertains to those you posted some time ago featuring your custom muffler designs. Incredibly helpful intel and I hope you don't mind if I pass along the link as a reference to others I've been consulting with for a solution to a very similar objective. So, I have a question. Had you considered introducing any type of packing material with the various baffles and if not, was there any particular reason? Until I watched you spell out the basic physics clearly and simply with your CAD presentation, I (we) could only speculate as to how to match engine specs to avoid expensive damage. Now, here's the kicker . . . "our" applications are for garden tractor exhaust systems LOL (and I'm sure you are now reading this) however, although the machines are very different, the principles of internal combustion remain the same. What I need specifically is to convert a dual inlet single factory muffler for a 25Hp twin to a L&R straight setup with something inline that's as quiet as a mouse fart but won't cook the valves as a trade off and, as you can imagine, size will matter. That first 3"X5" you tested put a few things into keener perspective in that while I was watching I expected to see something significantly larger. Now, having spared me and others from hours of trial & error with your results with the cones, the auger and the other configurations (an appreciative straight up thank you for sharing that with the vid by the way) I can tailor my efforts toward something compact and efficient. Still though, I am curious about option(s) using packing and if you have a minute sometime I'd appreciate your thoughts on it. Thanks again and as always . . . Stay Safe! JJFIII

[@EmbraceMaking]

Hi John, thanks for the comment. In that video I didn't use packing material because I didn't have a lot of space to work with in terms of pipe diameter. I didn't want to reduce the piping diameter to fit in packing material. Also, without a good amount of length, the packing material won't do anything significant. For example, a 6" long glass pack muffler won't do much, whereas an 18" long one will. I didn't have 18" to work with so I just crossed it off the list immediately. For your application perhaps you have room to use a packed muffler but make the exhaust gas "meander" inside for a bit before exiting. This would quiet things down, and I believe this is the approach most oem car mufflers use. They also have the luxury of having engineers on hand who have designed mufflers their entire careers so they know the science behind using reflections of waves to create a destructive waveform to cancel certain annoying frequencies. But I think if you meander the exhaust enough with some good high temp packing material like stainless steel wool you will get a good result.

[@johnfarrell3171]

@@EmbraceMaking Greetings and thanks for getting back. I'm going to need to review the CAD seg of the vid again while figuring percentages of "me's & "ander's" LOL ... Be Well JJFIII

[@manly_reefkeeper]

I usually print at 205C but with the matte PLA I haven't been able to get it to adhere to the glass bed, printing up to 220C. I have been printing the first layer (205C) with a clear PLA to get adhesion then switching to the matte PLA (215C) and getting fantastic results. The finish and top layers are probably the best I've had from any filament.

[@johnlocke3481]

does your cooling fan only blow from one side? This can cause the far side to not get cooled and have overhang issues.

[@EmbraceMaking]

This is true and I've experienced this before... to be honest I don't recall if this could have contributed back when I made this video but honestly this filament was such a pain from so many angles I wouldn't be bothered to try it again. Hopefully they fixed the issues but I haven't gambled any money on it.

[@LordByronMacintosh]

thanks for this review - very useful, just doing a first 16 hour print with this - wish I'd watched your video first!

[@EmbraceMaking]

How did it turn out?

[@LordByronMacintosh]

No too bad! Considering i used an adjusted Chep’s ultra fast profile and custom supports rather than trees. Only problems were in the model design - mine. I intended to do a little post work . Love those vases you printed by the way!

[@EmbraceMaking]

Thanks! Glad it worked out for you because a lot of people struggle with this stuff!

[@darkseidgames5274]

I am using a CR-10 Smart and upon hearing you are using one too. Did you use the settings you showed in the video? and did you also use the normal glass build plate? because mine is not sticking to the build plate.

[@EmbraceMaking]

I have a lot of printers, but I don't believe I used the CR10 smart in this video. I believe I was using my ANET ET5X with MicroSwiss extruder and all metal hotend. I believe I tried to use my CR10 smart for a few prints because of the various issues I was having with this filament. As for the settings, try printing slower, I dont think this filament does well being printed fast, especially first layers. Also, bump up the heat a little (both nozzle and bed), increase your extrusion multiplier as it seems to under extrude due to poor quality control (smaller than 1.75mm diameter) and use some glue stick on your glass. I printed on glass as well.

[@ichundmein]

Is there an alternative to this filament? So far I haven't been able to find anything that has this matte finish.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Check out polymaker polyterra pla or D3D matte ... both are excellent matte filaments!

[@EmbraceMaking]

If you check my channel I did another video on the D3D stuff I just recommended

[@ichundmein]

@@EmbraceMaking I also print this filament at 205 degrees and 40mm/s. Unfortunately I can't find any other filament that looks so great matt. I cannot order the D3D from Germany.

[@nils-ph3zs]

Thanks, excellent video

[@EmbraceMaking]

Glad you liked it! Thank you for taking the time to comment!

[@sharrysingh1957]

Ordered two rolls, love the matte color but not able to get decent quality print even setting up the extruder value from. 1.75mm to 1.65mm(checked the diameter) After that bumped up the flow rate and temperature in the printer, that doesn't work as well. Only issue i am facing with the top layers and thin areas however thin areas are Printed fine with normal pla filament. Sides are printed decently. Not sure what happening with top layers.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Honestly, this was one of the weirdest filaments I've ever used... and I've tried A LOT of filaments. I wish I had a suggestion for you other than to try and play with the top solid infill extrusion width in your slicer.

[@S00rabh]

My eSun ePLA Deep Black Matte is wrapping a lot. Almost like ABS.

[@EmbraceMaking]

SO many people are having issues with this stuff, I'm not surprised, and I'm glad I wasn't the only one. Try running your bed a little hotter, go slower on the first layer, and use some glue... let me know how that goes.

[@carrieluo8708]

Hi, would it possible for youto test our Magic PLA? 2 colors in 1 silk PLA. ? We can send several rolls for you free of charge.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Hi Carrie, yes I would be happy to test your PLA. If it is good and I like it I would be happy to make a video. Please reach me at [e-mail] thank you!

[@nikenbole]

Just got a few rolls from a amazon sale and this is a weird filament. Filament diameter is as you say alot thinner, around 1.7 and i agree with everything you say

[@EmbraceMaking]

Definitely a strange filament to work with!

[@AjeethCheppudira]

I used few matte filaments including the eSun. They were ok for normal print designs without much over hangings, But while trying to print buildings with pillars, the pillars were breaking. Bout with normal PLA the pillars were printing perfectly. The eSun filaments are not rolled evenly and gets stuck in the spool many times. So I prefer filaments rolled evenly.

[@cyanidebass6519]

This issue (wierd underextrusion) happens with other matte pla brand (giantarm, polyterra pla) and seems shomehow related.

[@EmbraceMaking]

I've never had it happen on polyterra, but I agree matte filaments can be more challenging!

[@Barnett3230]

Hey dude thank you for making this video I'm going to try some of these settings but ATM I'm struggling to get the first layer to stick. I run an anycubic i3 mega I've tried to print at different temps between 190-230c on hot end and the bed is 60c it is a glass bed. Any ideas ?

[@EmbraceMaking]

No problem! Does your anycubic use the Creality style glass with a textured side? On my printers, even the Creality ones with the textured glass, I always use the FLAT side, not the textured side. I find the Creality style textured glass never works well. Start with a nice flat glass surface, preheat your glass to 50-60 and then apply your glue stick. I always apply while hot so that it flows over the glass nicely and gets distributed evenly. Then start your print and it should stick... some filaments will allow me to keep printing with layer after layer of glue stick built up from each new print. Other filaments are more picky and require me to scrape off the old stuff after 10 prints and then start over with a nice smooth application. Let me know how that goes

[@Barnett3230]

It does have a textured side but I can't remove it/ flip it :( I think it's made one piece with the heating element

[@EmbraceMaking]

Are you using glue stick?

[@Barnett3230]

@@EmbraceMaking nope never had 2 I've been printing for over 2 years with loads of different pla/pla+ filamentsand never used gluestick I just seem to be having trouble with this matt filament I don't really want to start going down the route of using file if I can help it

[@josemiguelfernandes4113]

were you able to solve it? :O

[@regedit200]

this material has been a nightmare for my artillery, no matter what layer height I use...

[@EmbraceMaking]

Which problems are you running into specifically?

[@scatdawg1]

Hey I agree my x2 has terrible bed adhesion with esun aswell as low extrusion leading to layer delimitation. I've had minor success printing sliced for a 0.6 nozzle even though I have a 0.4 installed. The matte mint green Was the first filament I brought that wasn't black when I first got the x2, since then I've probably went though 50+ rolls of standard coloured filament but been having trouble with silk and matte, tried everything but nothing seems to work

[@ArturSiupik]

I have 2 printers and 1 is printing ok with default settings (Neptune 2S) and the other (Aquila with SKR mini E3 board) has heavy under-extrusion. I had to bump temperature to 220-225 and increase the flow. The weirdest thing is that under-extrusion is inconsistent. For a while it prints ok then barely extruding then ok for a while then barely extruding again. It leaves clearly visible pattern on the prints. It has perfect colour and look for scenery/dungeons/buildings etc so I just keep printing on Neptune. Fifth roll now

[@jackmchenry4576]

Yeah, about that adhesion lol Honestly my sister bought me two rolls, nothing but a nightmare.

[@Ericperezg]

Thanks! I have solved the problem of fixing in bed by increasing the temperature.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Excellent!

[@Acestrex]

Esun has definitely started having qc issues!! I have been buying esun a ton and the quality is all over the place!!!! Not happy with that because they used to be really good!

[@EmbraceMaking]

I'm still using their PLA+ without issues... but I have heard from some other people that they are starting to have issues with that too...

[@Reza1984_]

Compared to other matte PLAs , I feel this one is more stiff and brittle, only useful for miniature and vase prints, I didn't have any issues printing with it though, might be due to my printer bambu A1 having a edi current flow sensor that compensates for its flaws.

[@frederikaastrup2497]

i had no issues on the first to prints pr. role (have it in 4 different colors) But now its just prints rly bad. Because of your video, I just measured the filament and I got as low as 1.66mm :((

[@EmbraceMaking]

Yep... seems to be a common problem with this stuff :( Not sure if they ever improved it

[@dmorles]

Good looking PLA its just very brittle. Parts have to be thick or they'll break easily. I usually reinforce my matte prints with regular PLA - to get the look while also having the durability.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Cool, do you reinforce with the regular PLA using a dual extruder set up, or?

[@dmorles]

@@EmbraceMaking I just reinforce with regular pla ( no duel extruder). The matte pla would just act like a veneer.

[@stevedecerf7774]

the esun epla mat is my first, i never print before... i have a lot of stringing, the temperature :215, i can't solve the problem of stringing... sorry for my english i'm french.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Hi Steve, its not an easy one to get started with. What machine do you have?

[@stevedecerf7774]

@@EmbraceMaking oh sorry, i have a ender 3 s1 pro.

[@stevedecerf7774]

@@EmbraceMaking i have a serious problem with the retraction settings

[@EmbraceMaking]

@@stevedecerf7774 what is your retraction set to? And what is your print temp for this material

[@stevedecerf7774]

@@EmbraceMaking 210°, 1st Layer 220. Retract 1.6 @ 45mm/s print speed 50

[@marcobassini3576]

You said this PLA is less dense than regular PLA (+). Looking at the specs the difference is 1.17 vs 1.23 kg/dm3, which is almost negligible in practice. Are the matte PLA parts significantly lighter or not?

[@EmbraceMaking]

Yes it is a few percent less dense, but perhaps it is whatever else is going on with this filament (hard to explain under extrusion) that is causing the final part to be significantly lighter than a comparable part of regular PLA. I've been printing for a long time now and this materials was very unusual to work with. I hope they've fixed it since then.

[@marcobassini3576]

@@EmbraceMaking What do you mean for "significantly lighter"? Can you put a figure? 15%, 20%, 30% lighter? Even more? Since the filament density is almost the same as regular PLA(+) (actually only a negligible few % less), where does the significant increased lightness come from? I see only a possibility: much lower extrusion multiplier. Was this the case?

[@EmbraceMaking]

I'd have to see if I can dig up some parts and weigh them. I believe I printed otherwise identical plater pots in this filament and other PLAs so I might have a direct comparison to measure. As far as extrusion multiplier, I never touch that setting under normal circumstances. I can't remember if I ended up trying to increase it for this filament because it was behaving so strange but it could be a possible solution.

[@marcobassini3576]

@@EmbraceMaking The 3d printer measures a volume (gear that pushes filament to the extruder). If you use the same g-code with PLA1 and PLA2 then you are effectively printing the same VOLUME. If the filament does not expand after passing the extruder gear (volume measurement), then the weight of PART1 and PART2 can only be proportional to DENSITY1 and DENSITY2. In our case DENSITY1 ~ DENSITY2 (1.17 vs 1.23 kg/dm3). So WEIGHT1 ~ WEIGHT2. If this is not the case (is it?) then: 1) You are extruding different volumes (= you are using different g-codes) 2) One filament is foaming when heated up in the extruder (like LW-PLA) If (WEIGHT1 ~ WEIGHT2) or (G-CODE1 != G-CODE2) then it is fine. But if eSUN matte PLA is foaming, that would be quite interesting, since it is much cheaper than LW-PLA. If it does not foam, then sadly WEIGHT1 ~ WEIGHT2, or you used different g-codes. I see no other plausible explanation.

[@DaKaM_ART]

Just bought some Matte Pink filament and am tearing my hair out. Didn’t know what was going on, thank god it’s not just me….LOL

[@EmbraceMaking]

Yep this stuff is not easy to say the least

[@tomeastwood2284]

Been sat here 4 hours trying to get it to work, more hassle than its worth.

[@EmbraceMaking]

Yup, eSun makes some great filament but my experience was this type is not it.

[@tomeastwood2284]

@@EmbraceMaking Honestly. I print on a very low budget so it was actually a massive issue for me. Lost out on a lot of money with this one.

[@EmbraceMaking]

I know, I hate wasting time + money .. margins are slim these days!

[@ezruarn]

esun matte black pla Does not stick to the bed THISS IS WHY THEY DIDN'T GAVE YOU TO CHECK THAT

[@EmbraceMaking]

This material was very difficult even in the colors they did give me. I haven't touched it since.

[@trapperkreeper6105]

In my experience this stuff is better suited for practicing your shot put than 3D printing. I've managed to throw it 63 feet across my yard but won't rest until I can throw it far enough away I can't see it any longer

[@EmbraceMaking]

lol yes I didn't have the best experience either as you can tell.

[@dc1n1001]

Removing support is so freaking easy with this pla since it's less dense than normal pla.

[@EmbraceMaking]

I guess that is one silver lining to this!

[@ameliabuns4058]

aww what a shame, I Love cf prints and the aesthetics of matte plastic, but I want strong parts. I hate how layer lines are super visible!

[@EmbraceMaking]

Yeah I ended up hating this stuff... lots of other nice matte filaments out there now that perform better. Maybe eSun fixed this problem? Not sure because all of their other filaments are my favorite.

[@ameliabuns4058]

@@EmbraceMaking what do you recommend for a matte filament?

[@phantomrose1999]

Spent two days with this filament and throwing it in the bin ! It’s crap ! Sidewinder x2 prints other PLA and ABS perfectly but not this filament.

[@EmbraceMaking]

I understand your frustration, I didn't have much luck with it either

[@Andylismore76]

Weak as piss. Print Looked perfect accidentally dropped and could unravel the top layer ....can delaminate any area with fingernail

[@EmbraceMaking]

Yeah it was fairly underwhelming stuff. I hope they get it sorted out... some prints I managed to get to look nice but there is obviously something going on with this product.

[@Andylismore76]

@@EmbraceMaking such a shame too...Best looking prints I have ever produced

[@dmorles]

@@Andylismore76 agreed material is extremely brittle but looks really good.