The Impossible 3D Print - Glass Like Resin - Please Help!

Glass like 3D prints, the dream of everyone doing 3D printing. I tried and failed to make glass like 3D prints. But I got close! Now I need your help to finish the job. Let me know what you think about my workflow and what you would change.
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If you are interested in bike design, please visit also the website www.etoe.de/
designer: Martin Grey

[@bongobob7079]

"This video is only for 3d printing nerds" That's one way to lose viewers. Some people just like to watch whatever you do but telling them to go away if they can't help you is quite moronic don't you think? Unsubbed

[@ETOE]

Dude! I am not a native speaker. And my intention is, if you are not interested in 3D printing, do not waste your time watching this video and be disappointed afterwards. The topic is so nerdy that only a small group of people are really interested.

[@rodionromanovichraskolniko7960]

chill out man

[@bongobob7079]

@@ETOE "The topic is so nerdy that only a small group of people are really interested" Well that clearly is not true. I and many others watch subjects that we know nothing about as that is how we learn new things. You saying you havent watched topics you know nothing about so you can learn something new or have been intrigued by? I stand by what I said 100%. Don't assume anything about anyone, especially your own potential audience and community. Telling people to leave at the start of the video was stupid regardless of what you may think. You are a youtuber and the usual goal of a youtuber is to gain more traction and viewers is it not? Let the viewer decide for themselves maybe? Giving a negative view at the start of a video is not productive. Thanks for the pinned comment. Maybe other youtubers will read it and not make the same mistake you did

[@Simte]

Seeing the microstructure transfer from the design is quite cool. Your 3D printing videos are awesome.

[@ETOE]

Nice to hear. Yes the structure is really cool in case you want to use it. But in my case it prevents a clear surface.

[@AindriuMacGiollaEoin]

Looks like a tough mission!

[@АнтонВолков-к8я]

Ты большой молодец!!! Стремление и труд, все перетрут!!!

[@Bl0ckfett]

Zum SLA/ Resin Print: Wenn du etwas mit Hohlraum drucken willst, muss ein Loch/ mehrere Löcher irgendwo rein, wegen des Druckausgleiches. Dann sollte sowas immer gewinkelt werden, man nennt immer wieder die magischen 30°. Keine Probleme mit dem Druck und Support, aber es ist nur eine Empfehlung. Du musst verstehen, je mehr Auflagefläche, desto mehr wird an der FEP Folie "gerissen", was dafür sorgt, dass du keine geraden Kanten haben wirst oder Luftblasen eingeschlossen werden (siehe oben, keine Löcher). Dann würde ich dir empfehlen, sowas gar nicht mit einem SLA Drucker zu drucken. Es gibt mehrere Wege, solche Verpackungen zu produzieren. Sei es mit ganz dünnen Polystyrol- oder Acrylglas oder mit solchen starken Folien, Hitze und Vakuum. Letzteres nutzt übrigens die Industrie, da Aufwand und Materialkosten sich minimieren. Ich habe drei 3D-Drucker, darunter auch einen Resindrucker. Da fummelt man immer lange rum. Dann vermute ich, dass die nie eine hundertprozentige Transparenz durch Resin bekommst. Aber probier dich aus, Alternativen gibt es ja genug und winkle den Druck an.

[@judefruits73]

maybe just print a master in 3d of the shape you want to create, and use it as a "negative" part for vacuum forming the actual packaging with clear plastic sheet ?

[@ETOE]

I like to avoid vacuum forming if possible cause I have no machine. There must be a way to do clear 3D prints.

[@jasonmorris4795]

The first one you showed is because of much suction on the fep film, the don’t like a large surface, yes you should printing an angle, the problem with the corners is probably from it printing flat. if you are going to have to use supports just do them around the rim, then that are easy sanded and you may be able to use some clear paint to make the sanding mark almost disappear. clear is challenging to print and cure, a couple minute to long curing can really change the resin.

[@ETOE]

Thanks for your advice.

[@LestaAZL]

What if you print it on the wider side and desing 3-5 degree draft angels on every side, except the "front" side. Those drafts would take a way the burn issue and printing on its side, would give you clear front.

[@iClimbAlpine]

Hi @ETOE what decal cutter do you use?

[@j.dietrich]

You're trying to do two very difficult things at the same time. Hollow parts like this are a worst-case scenario for resin printers, because they pull a vacuum against the FEP. This hugely increases the peel force and increases the risk of layer separation, warping and FEP damage. Printing truly clear parts is notoriously difficult, because even the smallest defects are very visible. With your painting experience, you're probably better off washing the part in alcohol to achieve a satin finish then spraying a couple of thin layers of clearcoat. You can build a simple vacuum forming machine very cheaply using only a sheet of plywood, some simple hardware and an ordinary vacuum cleaner. It's incredibly easy if you have basic DIY skills and there are lots of guides available online.

[@ETOE]

Thanks for your suggestions. It's about to conquer the difficulty of resin printing because I have also other shapes in mind you can't do that easy with vacuum forming. Due to the fact that I have full custom painting equipment I will clearcoat the part afterwards and are in good hope to find a solution.

[@benerrington4387]

Umm… maybe just use a vacuum former.?

[@ETOE]

It is the easy solution yes. But I like to conquer the difficulties of resin printing because I have also complex shapes in mind which are hard to vacuum form.

[@sebas888888]

Since you're good at painting and preparing I would try one of these two options. Sand with the finest possible like with a 3000, and spray 2k transparent lack. Otherwise applying just a little bit of that same resin and curing it would also give you back the transparent look

[@ETOE]

Thanks for your input. That's what I have in mind.

[@crawdaddy270]

I have used straight rattle can clear on the elegoo semi-transparent colors and it helps clear them up pretty nice from the cleaning/scuffing that happens with intricate shapes. With wet Sandra and your far superior clears (and skill) I would think you could print it with the forward facing part to the box to the print bed and sand it back down and get it looking sharp. Maybe give it another 1 mm of thickness to have some sacrificial material to intentionally sand off.

[@LHitstaken]

Hey Martin, vor dem Problem mit klarem Resin stand ich auch schon. Schon die Auswahl des Resin kann hier einen großen Unterschied machen. Ein problem was ich hier sehe ist die Ausrichtung deines Druckobjekts. Resin-Drucke sollten immer angewinkelt (ca. 45°) und mit Stützstruktur gedruckt werden. Dies hat jedoch zur Folge, dass man in der Nachbearbeitung, also nach dem aushärten, das Teil dennoch überschleifen muss, damit man die anbindungsstellen der Stützstruktur nicht mehr sieht. Das die Reinigung in Isopropanol die Teile matt werden lässt hast du ja bereits angesprochen. Aber auch hier gibt es Abhilfe. Mit Klarlack bekommt man das ganze nämlich wieder transparent 😉 Dass das Teil, gerade wegen der Größe und Geometrie, nach dem aushärten direkt "perfekt" raus kommt halte ich hier jedoch für unrealistisch. An nacharbeit wirst du hier wahrscheinlich nicht umher kommen. Und noch als Tipp: als slicer kann ich den Lychee slicer empfehlen. Der kostet zwar in der premium Version etwas (glaube ca. 100€ im Jahr) aber ich finde diesen deutlich besser als die Standardslicer. Wünsche dir noch viel Erfolg und vielen Dank für deine klasse Videos und deine Kreativen Beiträge! Dank dir hab ich mich jetzt dran gemacht mein altes fixie zu lackieren 😉

[@Bl0ckfett]

Also ich würde keine 45° empfehlen, sondern 30° ist da eher der Wert, wo man anfangen kann und der Lychee Slicer muss nicht in der Premiumversion gekauft werden, die kostenlose Version reicht auch vollkommen aus. Beim Rest gehe ich mit. Ohne Nacharbeit wird es nicht klappen. Da kommt man mit Folie, Wärme und Vakuum (weiß grad nicht, wie der Prozess heißt) vermutlich besser.

[@ETOE]

Thanks for your input. I'm aware of the difficulty of the shape. That's why I wanted to try this particular print. I will try a version with support when the new fep arrived. The plan is to clear coat the part afterwards. I use the pro version of chitubox but will try your slicer as well.

[@XavMathis]

3D printers are terrible for printing large flat surfaces, particularly in your case where you’re concerned about the surface clarity. Even if you rotate the box you will just end up with marks from the supports. You need the right tool for the job and a 3D printer ain’t it.