this single print paid for my 3d printer

The only option was to try to fix it myself.
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[@runklestiltskin_2407]

Custom threads in f360? That's the real winner of the video

[@OlaSkytteren]

Yes that deserves a video of its own 😍

[@stevensiwinski]

I've had to make custom threads in Fusion before. They really need to make this an official feature, it's way more common of a thing to do than they obviously think. Other modeling software allows this without editing config files.

[@conorstewart2214]

Any reason you couldn’t just do it with a sketch and a revolve?

[@TheSwedishMaker]

I tried that too but didnt really get the result I wanted. There's probabaly a way to do it butnI couldnt figure it out

[@ProtonOne11]

I just create a coil as a new body and use it just to define a helix-path. Then you create a new sketch plane perpendicular to that helix end. Then you can draw a triangle on that sketch and use a sweep of the the triangle along the helix path to make the thread cut. Fully customizable and parametric. You can even make multi-start threads and very odd shaped threads by modifying the triangle sketch into what ever you want, circles, squares, hexagons, ...

[@jeremiahbullfrog9288]

For your first design, try chamfering the end of the dowel before trying to jam it into the newly formed threads. This should provide a ramping start-of-cut and may help with the self-alignment

[@KoenKooi]

For any bolt type of thing I’d recommend adding a chamfer, it makes everything so much easier!

[@MrSivkar]

and of course the cut depth was off .....

[@flightace1]

@@MrSivkar right!! if he had cut the entire form of the thread at once at the right shape it whould had worked since the guidethread in the 3d printed part had full shape of the intended thread,cant flush a 3" crap down a 2" drain

[@BadgerRobot]

Came here to say this too.

[@Litl_Skitl]

What if he started cutting by turning 'the wrong way' on the first jig to cut the dowel to the inner diameter, then once there's a little nub he can thread the correct way to thread through the guide and finish the part.

[@thenextlayer]

I'm a simple man. I see a Swedish Maker video, I watch and like. Edit: MORE COW CAMEOS! I'm so jealous you have cows. I love cows.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

It seems I will have to introduce more cows

[@337ClimbingSnowman]

Cows are great! Mooing is a bonus feature, not a bug!

[@MacroAggressor]

I kept facepalming every time you referred to a cow with an obviously engorged udder as "he" xD cool project.

[@v0ort]

Mooooooooooooooooo!

[@smokinvalves]

@@TheSwedishMaker It needs more cowbell.

[@MrNatural451]

Don't sweat the cows. They sound much better in the background than sirens and g_nfire. I love your life, too!

[@TheSwedishMaker]

True! Its not city noise

[@KewaiiGamer]

@@TheSwedishMaker i live far away from city and i have dogs barking middle of the night randomly. i completely felt your paint when you were telling them to shut up. i've slept better in city near highway..

[@galk9767]

I kind of like the random background cow, I wish to hear more of them.

[@warpedfusion]

"I bet Jesus could do this with hand tools..." What a great line! 😂

[@TheSwedishMaker]

😂

[@AckzaTV]

Yeah God being a wood working carpenter takes on so many crazy new meanings. Explains a lot about freemasonry too. Building stuff seems to be a religious thing for the west and that's smart.

[@haqvor]

@@AckzaTV religion is never a smart idea, it might be a necessary crutch for some that live very hard lives but otherwise it is just plain dumb.

[@forton615]

Freemasonry and Jesus are quite opposites. Anyway, Jesus's biological father (or was he?) Joseph was a carpenter, Jesus was a fisherman, but he might have learned a thing or two fron his dad. No word in the bible from Jesus threading wood?

[@pettere8429]

Does that make James@woodbywrigth Jesus? Cause he has hand carved both the external and internal threads in approximately that size. @LittleForrest also has a series on making the tools for cutting threads in wood.

[@steveferguson1232]

Perseverance is the final take of this video, and this is what you have with every video you do. You do not give up and neither should we.

[@Dragonited]

They didn't have special machines or tools when they made those old woodworking benches. They drew on a spiral on the dowel, sawed a kerf along that line and then used rasps and files to form the threads.

[@davecgriffith]

Interesting!

[@NitFlickwick]

They did have special tools. It’s called a thread box, and it’s almost exactly the same as the first jig he printed, but it uses a fixed blade instead of a router blade. The reason the wood is soaked before cutting the threads is to soften it a little because you are cutting the whole thread at once, which, for big threads, is a chore. It also results in cleaner threads, as mentioned, as a side benefit. This isn’t to say they didn’t do what you said. They absolutely did. It just wasn’t the only method.

[@ForestCinema]

@@NitFlickwickyeah lol $1K is a complete clickbait lie of a price for cutting threads in a large diameter dowel, it’s kinda offensive to be honest. Making a simple thread box is pretty basic “old-school” woodworking stuff.

[@Rufio1975]

​@@NitFlickwick I was going to say exactly that. I have made a few thread boxes. But the reason the wood is soaked is to make it easier for the blade since you are cutting across the grain not with it. Across the grain,if you don't have your blade extremely sharp, will tear the wood more instead of cutting and you won't get a clean thread.

[@Rufio1975]

​@@ForestCinemaIt's not a lie. If you look up some of the threaders for wood made of metal for that size,some companies do price them close to that price

[@4Gehe2]

You can make custom threads in fusion: 1. Do a sketch of the whole lenght of the thread (remember to account for extra loop after the set distance so you have geometry to the end). You need one like on right and left side of the axis. 2. Then a linear along the axis to be the path for a sweep. 3. Do a sweep from the bottom like to top line along the axis sketch you made. You need to do the revolutions math yourself to get the derised pitch. Input that as the rotation angle. 4. You should now have two surfaces. 5. Extreude a cylider (or hole... whatever) 6. Sketch the geometry of your thread profile as a regular sketch. 7. Select the profile sketch, do a sweep along the axis you sketched earlier. Choose the sweep tool and switch the type to "Path + Guide surface". Select the profile, the axis, and the guide surface, and do a cut operation. It is counter intuitive if you come from other CAD suites. However! It makes 100% sense in the philsophy that F360 operates in. F360 isn't "absolutely" parameteric, in the mathematically way used in other CADs (Like Inventor, Solidworks, NX...). F360 is designed to be more intuitive to basic user, as everything you do in it, is done with objects in space. To experienced professionals used to the precisions and mathematical definitions and references of other CAD suites, this is extremely annoying. HOWEVER! The intended user of F360 is not like that. You can make things in Fusion by just moving objects to their desired locations, and operating with them or on them. Also the principal method is supposed to go: Rough solid sketch -> Detailing and finishing with Surface tools (Probably the easiest and most intuitive surface tools I have ever seen... Then again the bar is VERY low) -> possibly final detailing of meshes with mesh tools if you are desperate. This is actually extremely convinient and easy flow to use - I say this as someone who has used Solidworks for years, had to suffer with NX, and regularly uses Inventor. It is easier to go from something like Blender to Fusion, than NX/Solidworks to Fusion. But once you get used to and accept the principle of working with Fusion, it is extremely quick and easy. I wouldn't use it to make complex load bearing structures with high precision maths and welding details. But I'm easily 2-3 times faster with it to make complex organic geometry than with any other CAD.

[@8blade6]

I would say to 3d print a section of the final threaded dowel that you can mount on the front end of the dowel. Then you could use that to get it started through your original jig and then once the bit starts cutting the threads, that's what will pull the dowel along as you twist it. Not all that different from your idea just with the advantage of having to print a shorter section and not needing to reposition the or print a really long thread like you did. But goo perserverance in hammering out the problem.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Good idea!!

[@Dierundeuhr]

@@TheSwedishMaker Had the same idea. The benefit is, that the side opposite of the bit is supported, so your dowel doesn't bend upwards. More consistent thread

[@ProtonOne11]

I guess the only problem with that technique would be the error magnification, because you need a little bit of play between the guide and the cut thread, the helix could get tighter and tighter over time until it binds up in the guide nut. Having the full length of the threads printed as a guide eliminates this problem. I guess it's not a problem for just a few turns, but if you want to make long threaded sections, the errors might become to big.

[@Dierundeuhr]

@@ProtonOne11 I don't think so. if the printed jig and the printed "head" for the dowel have the same geometry (which, if produced by the same CAD-Program with the same parameters, is true), then you only need a constant feed, not going back an forth (because of backlash). Or did you not mean along the axis of the dowel, but along the diameter? I guess with a properly set bit height there shouldn't be a problem. I don't see the helix getting "tighter" because the dowel gets constantly pulled by the thread, not pushed.

[@haqvor]

That only works if you can cut the whole depth of the threads in one pass. If you are not at full depth the newly cut threads won't fit in the jig or you have to make the the threads in the jig so shallow that it cant support the dowel in the subsequent passes. The method that he ended up with is a direct copy of how you do single point thread cutting on a metal lathe but taking into account that the cutter is in a fixed position so both movements must be done with the dowel. It is a bit more cumbersome to setup but the results will be perfect every time.

[@RexAnothership]

Great video. You can make jigs till the cows come home... literally!

[@darth_dan8886]

Congratulations on passing the Engineering 101! The thread experiment oughta have given you a solid feel for tolerances, and when it comes to mechanical engineering, that's seriously half the battle. Amazingly done! I look forward to seeing what this actually will come out as.

[@ericksiders9177]

Your production value has really increased as of late! I really enjoy being able to see more of your personality in your videos, in addition to your creativity and problem solving. Great content! Keep it up!

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thanks man! Appreciate it!

[@NateBury]

I think the first version will work. It seems like there was an alignment issue. If you print a threaded plug you can use it to align the threads and the bit and also get the right height on the bit

[@StephenSmith304]

Yep agreed, I think the alignment of the bit needs to be in alignment with the curved projection of the thread which might not be intuitive, and because of how much contact surface there is with the threaded guide, I would be generous on the tolerances / make the internal threads offset outwards a little. Printing a plug and making the cutting jig have a cutaway / section analysis (like having the bottom forwards quadrant of the box cut out) so you can see into the cutter "box" lets you examine how the bit comes into contact with the plug so you can really dial in the cutter position (remembering that you want to cutter to cut on the deeper side to give a tolerance fit with the guide threads).

[@paulocruz2723]

From a Portuguese guy to the Swedish Maker: your creations are an inspiration. Thank you! Regards from Portugal

[@keetheeheehey6375]

You can most definitely make the first design work with using the coil option in fusion and a sketch of the carving bit used on the saw. With that and some clearance you can make custom threads that include the pitch and depth of the drill bit. Also you will be able to control the spacing between the turns for optimal strenght of the wood. Hope this helps or at least gives you new ideas on how to improve the design!

[@matthewbutcher5295]

I think the cows were looking blank because you were speaking to them in English 😂 great video.

[@Traitorman..Proverbs26.11]

They only understand “kulning”. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gafXhWaLrs2cmLM

[@haqvor]

Single point thread cutting on a router table. I think that your final solution is a much better version than the first one and it also supports several passes with increased depth of cut which the first one can't really do without sacrificing precision (and I am an engineer, if that is worth anything...)

[@Inventorsquare]

I had thoughts in this as a professional machinist. The different method you came up with instead has a unique advantage in directly supporting the shaft at any point, such as in the case of creating a thread at a specific area of the shaft rather than at each end. The immediate area before and after the thread can be supported, which would be useful for extra long, heavy, or bent screw shafts. Furthermore it can be adapted to cut mid-shaft splines and keyways, set screw holes, anything. I believe the sleeve can be any size larger than the shaft, as long as the pitch of the thread remains the same. This would allow you to create two larger half nuts that can tightly clamp together with space for some hex screws that could be gently loosened or tightened quickly to slide up or down in position. The inside of the clamp can also be threaded and fit onto and match existing threaded rod, allowing the machine to easily make new, recut, or extend threads with identical timing. The clamping is important here as it would mean doing all this without having to exhaustively turn twist through a bushing to reach the desired starting point, it can simply be dropped in position and locked each time.

[@joaomrtins]

Great video. The setup, the plan, the cows, the success. Beautiful. Also, first tip to get better at CAD, use a mouse. For doing a thread with any profile you can make a sketch with your profile and cut from a cylinder it in a sweep operation.

[@rannublh678]

The little clap at 13:24 when it finally worked made my day. Thanks

[@MeriaDuck]

2:28 There's a saying in Dutch: "people only close the well after a calf has drowned". This on is putting it to the test.

[@benriser4018]

I had an idea while watching this on how to get the original design to work. If you reduce the size of the dowel at one end to the ID of the threads for a small section at the front you would be able to push past the bit and threads and use that smallest diameter to support the dowel in those threads as is starts to cut.

[@HexnHammer]

but we still don’t know WHY you needed to do this

[@jeepthangjim]

Not everything needs a why. Sometimes we just get an idea and want to see it through.

[@jerrebrasfield4231]

​@jeepthangjim why?

[@jeepthangjim]

@jerrebrasfield4231 Wouldn't you like to know random YT person.

[@HexnHammer]

@@jeepthangjim but he alluded to his printer paying for itself with this project which suggests that this project was important in some monetary form - so why did he need this print, for what task or sale did he need it that was then worth money?

[@Stakespecialty]

Excellent work 👏👏👏 on all of it. The designs and different iterations and the thought process to get to the end result and the fusion 360 custom thread size vant wait to see what you make

[@LeonidBazilevich]

I'm sorry, but can't you print the thing like in the first iteration of this project but based on the last iteration of internal threads? Just take this box with internal threads, remove half of it and add a hole for the blade? Wouldn't it let you to not print this long external threads thing but just use one little box for the entire length? Maybe even combine both ideas and use this new internal thread support in the front and the currently working external thread thing in the back. So that you get your wooden thread to begin with your solution and then continue by just pushing it like the previous guy did. I don't know if it'll work, but I guess that you might save some printing material without printing this long external thread thing

[@filipesilva2624]

I was thinking the same, also I remember a Russian guy who made something similar but with way less tech, if I find it I'll share the link

[@Ahmad_Jamal_06]

I don't think it would be strong enough

[@LeonidBazilevich]

@@Ahmad_Jamal_06 why?

[@kennethhicks2113]

Your a Great teacher : ) I'm a 60yo engineer and love to learn my whole life and did so. Please pass this on, "There is nothing hard, just things you haven't learned yet."

[@lukaszlesniak]

If you had a problem with starting the thread in the first version, you had to make a guide cap at the front that starts the thread, this sleeve with an external thread unnecessarily complicates the project.

[@chillerfive]

for any sort of thread forming work you should check out the "three wire method" for determining the pitch diameter. There are online tools to help with it. Typically you'd start with a light pass to get the thread started and then do consecutive passes with increasing bit engagement to deepen the threads. In between passes check measure the pitch diameter with the three wire method and you should be able to get a perfect and repeatable thread. Not sure what you're planning exactly but if you require multiple of the same screws that's the way to go.

[@Scott_A]

Another possibility would be to get a steel nut the right size and file a few vertical slots for swarf clearance to make your own die, it should work for wood. I have had to make these more than a few times over the years as thread chasers for damaged metal threads (when a thread file or die wasn't readily available)

[@CoffeeStreetWC]

Please have cows in every video from now on.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Will do

[@markusplatzer8300]

Nice work on the self engineering.

[@hamburgengineer]

Check out your internal diameter after print. Usually it is narrower than the design. Adjust your Cura settings accordingly.

[@tracywilliams61]

Love the excitement makes my heart happy😊

[@bumv2]

I think you should print a thin slice of the outer thread and put it to the wood thread to see the matching/clearances.

[@jmtx.]

It's a great idea with using a threaded end to 'pull' the wood through. Maybe the bit just needs to cut deeper to that the cut thread will for sure fit through.

[@poepflater]

I'd love to see what you can do with this... maybe a round spade drill bit to make the grooves look smooth, wide and rounded.....

[@webderek]

lol! The cows are my favorite part of the video. Love the search for tech solutions, of course.

[@carlthor91]

1) Look at a bolt, see the taper at the lead in for the threads. 2) Your ideal for threads in the block at the D-Bit, was correct, you just didn't have the taper. 3) The plastic threads, at the D-Bit, would then have pulled the dowel through as you first thought. Best wishes from Northern Canada.

[@Athune]

Great video! I think you could use the first jig if you cut the end in half to a depth of at least your screw pitch; that way the router bit can enter from that new plane in the middle of the dowel

[@devolljs]

Love watching the journey of you figuring this out. Very cool.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thanks!

[@bridevalley]

Very cool! Looking forward to seeing why you want a thread on the dowel...

[@rfitzgerald2004]

Engineering often requires some trial and error, well done for persisting with it, life has no mistakes - only opportunities for learning :)

[@canadianavenger]

Nice solution. just a pain to do longer threads, but it works! The original concept can work too, just try to imagine how the leading edge has to move after it passes the router bit and I think you'll get there... you were so close to having it! The key is all in that first thread after being cut. The cows were a distraction, it's their fault ;)

[@MickTee2k]

So your problem with the original jig was that the desired thread profile didn't match the actual? Once you respecified your desired thread to match the actual, there was no reason you could not have reprinted your original jig and cut the thread that way. Nice video, and a great example of problem solving methodologies!

[@petergamache5368]

One issue with accuracy might be due to your clamping direction: sideways against the 2x2 instead of down. Next time, try milling a slot for extruded T-Slot in the top of the 2x2, then use T-Slot clamps to hold the 3D printed jigs against the router table. Similarly, you can enhance the threading jig by adding a small printed ring to the bottom, so it locates in the router lift trim ring.

[@ThatGuythatComments_]

My favourite part was calling all the female cows with udders him. The thread prototyping came in a close second, great video

[@1DwtEaUn]

he said he wasn't an engineer, so maybe he is also not a veterinarian :)

[@sheerluckholmes5468]

So only the male cows with udders should be called him? .... what you mean that aint an udder?

[@thePavuk]

I remember that was some popular 3D animated kids show, and bulls there had udders too.

[@Mario-iq4qz]

​@@sheerluckholmes5468bulls don't have udders, unless in very specific genetic mutation cases. they do have nipples but not udders, and their nipples are not easily visible. Source: Work on cow farms repairing milking equipment. Also cow is a species, bull is just the specific name given to male cows, but saying he for a cow is not incorrect.

[@MichaelFurmedge]

I am very impressed that you went hunting in the XML :D

[@rockosgaminglogic]

17:11 you don't need longer threads, you can use a threaded block ahead of the router and thread into that, then remove the screw and threaded collar and continue with the whole length.

[@iPrint3D]

Push all thread faces/planes 0.2mm inward. Don't just "scale" the entire thing.

[@earthlingjohn]

14:32 ''... before i go ...'' my brain: thinks you are going to find a cow supportive of your idea 😅

[@michaelkolozsvari3575]

Great job! Also, when it's snug (but not too snug) a bit of beeswax can help. I normally would put it on the 3D printed dowel's threads, but in you case I would put some on the threads you're screwing into. OR, you could print a larger receiver.... LMAO! As another "not engineer" that's doing 3D printing, this was very fun to watch!

[@josephpk4878]

A secondary guid block near the head of the router would increase the accuracy of the cut and possibly be easier to feed. I have to try this technique - always wondered about wood threads and this is a brilliant approach. *edit: this would also work well on a table saw, with a good finishing blade. You could even put a decent pitch on the threads, by tilting the blade +/- a few degrees.

[@chrisjaustin88]

I had the same thoughts you had throughout this video. Great problem solving solutions.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thank you!

[@dr07828]

opening shot is funny. Guy is like a foot off the ground. Says the trees behind him lol

[@brambruijnzeel]

Respect man, the persistent wins !

[@ImaginationToForm]

I might look into the files you found. I'd like to make changes to include offsets for 3d printing the threads.

[@saasseli]

Your first design might work if you reduce the printed thread loops to somewhere inbetween 1/4 of a loop and full loop, that way the unfinished edge wouldn't collide with the threads and bind up.

[@iamaraindog385]

I've started adding just a TEENY bit of fractional space to my designs for a better fit and tolerance. it's definitely been a learning adventure and I have a box full of failed attempts and prototypes.

[@lvmadsen]

Wow ty for this. I want a garage now. More then ever.

[@AtelierQube]

Great video my man! Love the honesty and problem solving 😊 Curious to see what you’ll make with it. Oh and moooh! Don’t worry about the cows 🐄 😉

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Thanks brother 😍 moooooh

[@jimgeelan5949]

Brilliant and very entertaining thank you 😊

[@CyborgGrizzly]

Better to draw a custom thread profile and sweep along a helix. Not only does this save you the hassle of mucking around inside config files, but it also allows you to control the start of the thread, which I am assuming is a huge contributor to the problems you had with the first design. You need to be able to align the bit and the start of the thread so they are practically touching to make sure the thread catches and pulls the wood through properly - in effect the router bit has to be part of the thread of the 3D print. Other than that, good job on finding a solution that actually worked for you in the meantime!

[@btheman779]

I would love a video of you figuring out how to mess with the 360 native thread files.

[@jamieswain4888]

You looked like David Hayter when you were hanging off the "mountain" 😂

[@ulwur]

Problemet med den första lösningen är att man måste pricka rätt i var gängan börjar, stigning, djup och profilen i ett område som man inte kan se in i. Din lösning med en medbringare var perfekt!

[@donotwantyoutoknowit]

You are a damn good engineer!

[@simonrichter3950]

Hey, Nice project! You might want to check out out the press-pull tool in fusion 360. Using this tool one can simply offset surfaces of your parts, f.i. thread by 0.1 mm to get some clearance if needed :) Really useful when you have to increase some clearances between your parts.

[@JH-zo5gk]

use a sweep to make the threads the shape you want

[@christophk.8798]

Hi, remember me from last video ranting about you hyping me for a 3D printer? I still hate you, but I ordered the P1S ;) Planer has to wait lol.

[@TheSwedishMaker]

😂 good for you!

[@TheOneAndOnlySatan]

Had a great time at Johnny's, we should do it again!

[@colind6797]

Make a sleeve that goes on your 44mm dowel that has the threads you want on it put it on the dowel to the half way point, make a box like your front one with matching threads in it, only put it where your "guide" box is right now, now you HAVE to turn it to advance it, then just make sure the dowel collides with your router bit where you want it to and at the angle you want and voila!

[@colind6797]

Useless Factoid #12,474,331 - This is VERY similar to how barrel rifling was made on early firearms! :)

[@antonsemenyura5337]

the joy of achievement the goal! "I am not an ENGINEER! " jäjäjäjä

[@idoubtyourcommitment]

I clicked on this video 'cause I thought you were Rhett McLaughlin. At first I was disappointed. Then intrigued. Then I subbed. Also, the cows need more screen time. Perhaps even their own second channel.

[@jpsalis]

Good on you for figuring out how to make the custom thread with a configuration, but isn't there's a custom coil tool in fusion?

[@chips7049]

i was thinking of a similar idea for making threads, but making a lathe type clamp to hold the wood instead of drilling into it

[@ConorBoling]

What if you put another 3d print at the end with the threaded box so when you cut threads, those threads will continue spinning the rod without a very long print at the back? That will also limit the amount of drill holes needed to keep it attached firm. I know the sanding would be the problem so the last set of threads aren’t the smoothest, but i imagine you could thing of a jig that sand just a bit too lol. Might be a cool idea to explore and make the overall 3d prints you needed minimal.

[@johnbradwell3834]

Engineering student here. Putting a peg in a hole can result in interference fitment if the hole is smaller than the peg. In other words, you jam it. If you want the peg to fit in the hole snugly, but not loose, the hole is only a tiny bit bigger. Since reality is never exactly the same as design, we have to have add a clearance. A tiny gap in design between the parts so that they can fit together as intended. How tight or loose it is depends on this clearance. You’ll be able to adjust this in fusion. There are plenty of KZbin videos explaining how to do this for 3D printed parts, but it might require some testing because it may look differently for wood than it would PLA. Also as mentioned by others, you should sharpen the point of the screw to make it self align. It’s my first time on your channel and I like it so far. I’m a big fan of people who jump into projects like this. It’s the best way to learn. Great video

[@palarious]

There are very simple ways to make them that people employed in the past. even easier now with power tools. That said, this is a really cool solution. The accuracy has got to be better your way. I would invest in a lathe, though. worth it. ALSO if you want to lubricate the threads, use graphite. You can buy it to lubricate farm equipment or just get a few construction pencils and apply it that way.

[@Phsteddie]

Great project and entertaining video? I think you’ll get better, more consistent results if you mount your thread and guide blocks to a piece of plywood or Alu. plate. Then firmly secure this to the router table. Screw your fixture plate to the router table if possible. On screw threads you’re working with tapers/angles. It doesn’t take much runout to make a big difference and use up your tolerance window between the male and female threads. Possible even another guide at the exit side of the router bit. You got this old woodworker to try and make a similar jig. Thank you!

[@FranklyWry]

My first thought was that you need to reduce the friction in both parts via lubrication, and the second is to use two passes, one with the bed raised with the v offset a millimeter or two, then use a flat bit and lower the bed backdown to level and make the second pass. But I was an English major, so….

[@ruudbremer]

you didn't need the extra external thread on the outside to make the rest of the wooden threads. You only needed to external threats as a starter, and than use the other 3d printed block with internal threads after the router to guide the dowel.

[@SteveBellCreates]

Man I was there with you all the way willing the threads to work. I jumped up shouting at the TV when it worked thank god I’m worn out ❤

[@TheSwedishMaker]

Haha Ive learned your a guy who jumps in front of the tv 😂 thanks Steve

[@SteveBellCreates]

@@TheSwedishMakerman I love you on the big screen ❤

[@Alanbataar]

An alternate way to make male threads would be to make your own thread cutting die. You have to understand the progressive nature of die cutting threads - they start with a shallow cut at the beginning and as the work progresses through, each tooth becomes slightly deeper, until it reaches the full cut depth, then there are a few teeth that smooth and finish the threads. Knowing this, you can have threads water jet cut from carbon steel flat stock, say 3mm thick. Then 3D print the body of the die with the carbon steel thread insert included (either with a pause in the printing, or otherwise glued/screwed in after printing.). The cutting edge of the insert needs to be on the radial centerline of the die body or the resulting thread will be misshapen. You can use the same technique to produce a female thread cutting tap.

[@JBGecko13yt]

very entertaining! love the cows!

[@paulroussell]

Nice work. Did you consider making a ball screw thread using a straight router bit, not a vee one? That would probablt be stronger and less-prone to inaccuracy.

[@talbech]

Awesome content and great sense of humor.

[@alexkart9239]

You are on the right way, but i think that this sharp internal corner on the bottom of each thread is a weak point. It probably would be better to make an 'acme' thread, which is a trapezoidal groove, not a triangular one.

[@Lazywatchsmith]

Maybe the jig number 2 would have worked if you had tapered the tip of the wood?

[@martonlerant5672]

Finally "do your own threads in blender" works better than using the built in thread generator in pricy software?

[@ssjronin3972]

The audacity to tell the cows to shut up and then go to them in your time of need... Honestly the cows are a cool background. Cool project.

[@GodardScientific]

Did you chamfer the end of the dowel before putting it through the jig? That would certainly stop it from going through freely. Also you can design your own threads pretty easily by using the spiral tool along with the pipe tool for future reference :)

[@timothyearp631]

Getting the depth of cut just right on the first pass is the only way to make that work. It would have been easier to print a sample of exactly what the wood should be, and thread that into the jig then with the router off adjust the jig so that the router cutter just drags on the sample as you feed it though then raise the bit a verry small amount, so the thread is just a little loose. The problem is there is an exact correct place the router bit needs to be in three axis and it one is off it can cause issues with the pitch of the thread.

[@Chollanger148-pv8jp]

Wooden threads are easy to make with a small thread cutter

[@fakeyou7736]

Paid*

[@TNH91]

Looks like our cries were answered.

[@Sembazuru]

I'm going to continue to watch to see if you caught this error, but the view of the CAD model at 5:43 shows the root of the threads (where the tip of the router bit will be cutting) as flat yet you are cutting with a pointed router bit. I'm wondering if you took that into account when setting the router bit height (i.e. not cutting enough wood to allow thread engagement with the fixture).

[@sigmundwong2489]

Just in case it's interesting to anyone.... in the U.S. there is (was?) a company called Beall that sold a threading tool. It seems like they are now sold by a company called Lee Valley, with a maximum size of 1.5". That's 38mm-so not quite the 40 you needed, but close. And you'd be stuck with annoying imperial units.... but it looks like they sell them for around 120 USD, and the tap for the internal thread is included. Anyway, really nice to see that the 3d printed jig worked out! Nice job :)

[@EliteWater]

You had the right idea first, you just needed to print the threads to screw on front/top of the dowel to draw the material in at the correct feed rate, then the threads would keep the feed rate steady as they were created.

[@dainermade]

That was very enjoyable for many many reasons

[@gosnell500]

the cows absolutely made the video better

[@whatsagrinder]

like others have said, your first design would work, but chamfer your ends. all bolts have chambers for a reason, great idea though

[@oculicious]

you didn't need to print the extra long one, you could havve just threaded it into the newly printed part in front of the bit, clamped it down and used it for the rest, since the threads will have been made by the time they reach it