Everest's First Summit? Mallory & Irvine Documentary · Original

[@bostonmanification]

So happy i stumbled upon this channel, great content! For someone who lives in SE America, and hopes to one day see a 8K meter peak.. these videos keep my curiosity alive

[@shadowsanddust2]

Ughh uh ughh ughhif uh uh ughh ughh uh ughh h uh uh

[@gard7662]

Excellent channel! Tallest mountain where im from is just over 1000m. Cant even imagine what an 8k peak must look like, never mind climb one!

[@nhdoodle3167]

I think they made it.

[@oneshothunter9877]

@@nhdoodle3167 Think.., based on what? A feeling? :)

[@badodnk]

@@oneshothunter9877 they did make it. Entire climbing world knows it. Mallory is the first to ever reech the mountain and tens of years before anyone was close truly remarkable achievement one of the best in history of men.

[@rickeyhall9994]

Odell never got the recognition he deserved for staying so high for so long. Along with Rob Hall surviving overnight near the summit with no tent, the unparalleled achievements on Everest

[@a.walters123]

Amen. For Rob Hall to not only survive the night, totally exposed and with zero oxygen, but still be coherent and able to talk? It’s an absolute astronomical achievement. I wish they would name a technical spot at the final ascent on Everest after Rob Hall, similar to the Hilary Step. He is among Everest’s greats, up there with Hillary and Mallory (ironically both men with women’s last names). I always wonder what if, what if Rob had just come down and left Doug. It was more than just a monetary obligation, that’s for sure. Rob had human dignity and spirit, but I do also believe that business played a part of it. He was the team leader and owner of Adventure Consultants, I feel that he not only felt obligated but could not live with himself if he left Doug up there. He made a promise to bring him down. Me personally, as a parent, I would never choose anyone, even my own husband or parents, over my children. He had a pregnant wife at home, and I wish so much that he would have just left Doug. That child deserved their father.

[@Ed30675]

I would have preferred that Rob had stuck to his 2pm turnaround and turned his client around...Had that happened there was a chance both men would have survived....​@@a.walters123

[@rickeyhall9994]

​@a.walters123 I agree and perhaps more so since I have a child as well. Doug knew the risks and still chose to climb. I would say that a guide should be obligated to help a client in any circumstance except one that could also lead to their own demise. Everyone who climbs that mountain knows the risks and dangers so yes Rob should have left Doug once he realized he alone could not get him down.

[@doyouevendab77]

​@@a.walters123hilary? Hilary clinton climbed mountains? I spent an hour going through her wiki page and seen nothing about being a mountain climber. It makes sense to me she would try and hide her past to be respected as a politician. What an amazing person, i have so much respect for her after hearing what she did before politics. I never would have guessed she climbed mt everest!!!!! Just wow!!!!! I now i understand why so many people hate her, she is doing what they are too cowardly and scared to do. Some guys just can't accept there are women ten times the man they wished they were. Thanks for the info friend!!!!!

[@Beelzebubba2024]

​@@a.walters123yeah multiple sherpas have done what rob hall did.. And have survived the worst.'name the spot after Rob Hall'... For what? Dying there? Here is one for a name... 'Red suit ridge'. Disrespectful? You never would have squirmed about Green Boots. You westerners really think that mountain belongs to you

[@dt3802]

The old pictures and videos are fantastic.

[@davids9549]

Who knows? But one thing's for sure: getting to within 1000 feet of the unclimbed summit of Everest wearing Harris tweed and smoking pipes outperforms a modern ascent any day!

[@herbert9241]

As does Odell's attempted rescue detour.

[@gordonirvine6134]

They didn't have the luxury of the modern routes and the modern climbing gear that climbers have today. They had to figure it out as they went. They are true pioneers

[@billythekid3234]

@Matthew Aguirre If they had better equipment they sure would have used it! Thats why Itsvery doubtful he made it. A bad storm,,,,, no protection from the cold, even Todays climbers would not have it due to the storm! and running out of O2.

[@matthewstevenson3002]

Yes I believe he was also wearing slippers and carrying newspaper under his arm

[@fabiennefrancois-auguste6680]

@@matthewstevenson3002 🤣🤣🤣

[@Errcyco]

I didn’t know who David Snow was a week ago, but now I’ve watched close to 20 hours of his awesome Himalaya docs here. This channel is gold.

[@mattjames112]

It's pretty cool hearing guys that were there talk about it like it happened yesterday.

[@pattywolford]

Such an excellent documentary. Actual footage of the expedition as well as speaking with actual participants.

[@tommynikon2283]

As a retired mountaineer (Rainier), AND longtime commercial photographer…I REALLY APPRECIATE what the expedition photographer must have experienced…with HEAVY, archaic tools in BRUTAL conditions. At altitude. MUCH RESPECT to ALL around.

[@Gyppor]

Thanks for a great old school documentary, I wish they still made them like this instead of the over dramatized way many are now narrated.

[@davidcopson5800]

With tons of annoying music and sound effects!

[@Joker-ig8im]

Noel Odell was a Rock Star and definitely the kind of man you would want on your support team.

[@brianjezuit4085]

Absolutely!!!😃😃😃☕☕☕🥁🥁🥁🌃🌃🌃

[@AvB.83]

"I'm rather inclined to think, personally, that, maybe, it's quite important to get down." History books aside, I think almost every mountaineer will agree with Sir Edmund Hilary there.

[@PeterFairhurst-v3e]

A fair point my friend. Interestingly Shackleton could have been first to the Pole in 1908. He was only 97 miles away, plenty of time but not enough food to get there and back. So he stopped and turned around.

[@FieldMarshalFeels]

Hearing his cohorts interviewed makes me realize just how eloquent people were back then.

[@spaceman61]

I know Hillary and Tenzing are the official first to climb Everest but Mallory and Irvin are my favorite Everest climbers

[@cs-mh2dh]

Mallory took a picture up the mountain of his wife with the intent to leave it on the summit should he reach it. His belongings were collected but no picture of his wife was among the items. In my humble opinion, I believe Mallory was the first to summit Everest, with or without Irvine. The rope around Mallory was severed. This could be due to Irvine falling off a cliff and Mallory having to cut it, or it could have been the other way around causing Mallory to fall to his death. It is also a fact: It is easier to summit with no oxygen than it is to descend with exhaustion. On the day Mallory was seen that close to the summit, it was good weather and early enough to complete the climb. All facts lead to a more probable conclusion that he made it to the summit.

[@akschmidt2085]

Irvine probably froze to death in a slot, he was seen twice but not for ages. But he apparently didn't fall off.

[@jonschlottig9584]

@@RTX_5090_8K where did you get this information? I am extremely curious!!

[@RTX_5090_8K]

@@jonschlottig9584 hi. I study stuff. Right now Im back to genealogy. I have formulated the Everest document back 2 weeks ago. so some changes since. It's not of my interest anymore since I have made the document. You'll be happy to hear about it.

[@RTX_5090_8K]

Mount Everest was first observed ever, by the Southern Tibetans, circa long before year 1715, and was locally known as Mount Devgiri or Mount Devadurga. The First identification and recording of the peak on a map using scientific methods were Chinese surveyors Shengzhu, Churbizanbo and Lanbenzhanba, who conducted the survey in Tibet in 1716. Mount Everest was secondly identified in 1721 on the Kangxi Atlas survey of China. Mount Everest was thirdly identified by the Westerners during the Great Trigonometrical Survey of the Himalayas in 1841, and recognized as the tallest mountain in the world. Established as highest in 1852 by Radhanath Sikdar and confirmed officially in 1856. Chinese Name: Mount Qomolangma (1721 and 1952) French map Name: Mount Tchoumour Lancma (1733) Western/British Name: Mount Chomolangma (1721), Peak XV (1841), Mount Everest (1865) Tibetan Name: Mount Devgiri or Mount Devadurga (before 1721), Mount Chomolungma (1721) Nepalese Name: Mount Sagarmatha (1836 and 1960)

[@RTX_5090_8K]

1st person to summit Everest: (1924) George Leigh-Mallory (English UK) (North Side of Everest) 1886-1924 Mallory was a professional rock climber. They took up a part of the North East ridge, approching the first step, then passed under it, avoiding the 2sd step by the rock band, joining the Norton couloir, to reach the 3rd step. Irvine wouldn't be able to climb the 2sd step in the first place. They knew of that problem, hence why the route they've took was on the north face, joining the Norton couloir. Odell firstly Said they were going to the summit by 3 hours, which is at the 3rd step, and saw them at 12:50pm. "The last step but one from the base of the final pyramid", climbed with alacrity. In any pictures of Everest or Odell's viewpoint, the foot of the final pyramid is the 3rd step. The foot of the next bigger pyramid is the first step. It's impossible for them to only be at the first step by the time. A very short time after, in the same 1924 year, He was sure to see them at the second step, then in 1925, he was unsure if it was the first or second step. He sure was under heavy pressure to retract his visions by Chinese correspondants, to make it looks like a summit fail as soon as you hear him say second step, which already doesn't even matches the third step that he was very firstly noting. Experienced Everest climbers climbing the 3rd step noticed that this particular step matched perfectly what Odell described. The rather severe blizzard hits Mallory and Irvine at 2h30 hours left from summiting Everest. Irvine carried the camera. Mallory needed The camera on the summit, to give it back to Irvine. If Irvine decided to turn back, Mallory would have the camera. Both men summited during the blizzard. If Irvine decided to turn back a bit after the third step, the pair wouldn't be found dead so close from each other. One would rather achieved a come back to camp 6, reinforcing the idea of a team effort, no separation. The Chineses saw Irvine in 1960, off the ridge, long before the first step, at 8200m. The Chinese carried Irvine’s body off the mountain with Irvine's camera, in 1975. They have destroyed the film and ruined it without looking at the content of the film. A permafrosted film lasts at the very least 50 years to be developed, regardless of the contrast/colors, suggesting a strong 100+ years. A top secret Chinese document spoke about the 1960 North Face expedition on the top of mount Everest as the first men to do so, to be in the heart of the Chinese people and to protect this aspect at all cost. If the Chineses wanted to falsify the route they've took, they would have said that Irvine was found upper between the first and second step, where it shows a complete ridge route, and the near impossible Irvine climbing the second step. Mallory was found in 1999 by an English expedition, found him down the ridge on the north face, before the first step, at 8100m. The body didn't seemed to be searched, and without the picture of his wife on him. Mallory didn't brought his camera, borrowing Somervell's one, but never mentioned if forgiving his wife picture to the team. Strongly having it on him for the climb, leaving it on the summit, not necessary having the energy left for an underground maneuver. Odell: I think that when they got to the foot of the final pyramid, it was late. Mallory would say, "Well, we've got to hurry up here, because it's almost approaching dusk, and along we go." I don't think Irvine in any way would have hesitated to go. Odell always believed they summited Everest. Odell was into this blizzard from seeking point to Camp 6. When the blizzard started, It took Odell 2 hours to reach Camp 6 without harm. He didn't knew how he got there, but he did, proving you can move forward a certain amount of hours with these clothes, during an Everest blizzard. The clothing of the 1924 climbers would not have prevented them from reaching the summit as replica clothes pass Everest test. The logical hour on the broken Mallory's watch indicates 1h30 am, and explained to be non-fonctional anymore by the impact, leaving them 12 hours in a blizzard from the 3rd step, to summit, then back succumbing to where they were found. Mallory failed on the rock band at most probably 1h30am. If they turned back at the 3rd step, it would have left them 7 hours in the blizzard before succumbing to where they were found. They would have had time to get back to camp 6, half frozen if they would have turned back at the 3rd step, when looking at the time map on their route, suggested by M. Tracy. Without the blizzard, a camp 6 come back from the third step is 8 hours, and 12 hours from the 3rd step to summit, to Camp 6. Mallory was a man that knew his limits. They saw the blizzard coming. He did not expected a fall on the come back. If Odell had whatsoever no problems getting to Camp 6 during the blizzard, It makes no sense that Irvine had been found dead without a fall before the step 1, coming from step 3, He would have had time to get further down before freezing, clearly indicating that both men summited. The rock band looks steeply during the blizzard, and the ridge might have been the chosen path on the come back, using ropes at the 2sd step.

[@kiyajane100]

George Mallory said if he made it to the summit of Everest he’d leave a photograph of his wife. When his body was finally found by an expedition they said in his pants pocket they found all his personal papers which were all still perfectly preserved but there was no picture of his wife. Makes me think maybe he did make it. Unfortunately Irvine’s body has never been found and he was the one that carried the camera so we will never know for sure.

[@abone2pick]

Actually we don't know if that was Mallory. Could have been Irvine wearing his jacket but What if he did leave it at the summit and the snow and wind got rid of it after 30+ plus years of being at the summit alone.

[@ernreeders1487]

@@abone2pickNonsense. Different physiques, different hair colours.

[@abone2pick]

@@ernreeders1487 I said "could have".... and even tho that's true the body that was found in 1999 did not have hair on it for you to distinguish it. you cant just just identify someone by the bones on their back and a fractured leg bone.

[@allisond9387]

What if Hillary picked up the picture of Mallory's wife and once he got back to camp threw it away, so he could have the game of being the first to climb to the top??? Hi, I'm Allison, and I have trust issues... Lol

[@MickeyHassan]

@@allisond9387 That Hillary fella did sound like a dodgy character 🤔See, you're not the only one with trust issues mate😁 On a serious note though, they're all heroes and deserve respect.

[@jmspiers]

This is great, thank you for posting it. I have been interested in the Mallory story for years. I know that many Everest climbers have said they don't think he made it to the summit. I'm not a mountaineer, so I trusted their opinion...until I saw this documentary. It's fascinating to hear the people who were there describe Mallory's dedication and their opinion that he would not turn back. It makes me re-think the issue. Of course, not turning back does not mean that he reached the summit. But the one thing everyone agrees on is his climbing skill and physical fitness. It's a shame that we will probably never know if he reached the summit. I can't imagine climbing Everest in their clothing and equipment. It would have arguably be the greatest act of exploration of that era, even though he did not survive.

[@jannamyers6792]

England will claim it even though it's unlikely.

[@Armageddon-qo4wy]

@@jannamyers6792 Mallory and Irvine did make it to the summit in my opinion. I don't think Edmund Hillary was the first to conquer Mt Everest. There were Sherpas that have climbed the mountain before Hillary did, AND made it to the top.

[@taotoo2]

@@Armageddon-qo4wy Can you expand on the sherpas?

[@Armageddon-qo4wy]

@@taotoo2 yes, your imagination can do anything you want. You just have to believe.. lol

[@lovelyjanuary]

@@jannamyers6792 England already gets to claim the 1953 summit by Hilary and Norgay so I’m not sure they’d care to double claim both for no reason without the evidence to prove the first set of climbers out-Englanded the second set basically in summiting 30ish years prior lol

[@suzystone244]

Lost On Everest. The Search For Mallory and Irving. An AMAZING book.❤

[@LarryT_79]

One of the greatest and most beautiful stories of humanity...

[@04nbod]

Its so moving to know that in the moment of his triumph Sir Edmund Hillary looked to see if Mallory was there

[@ninadsheth8422]

100 years to the hour. Two of the greatest of all times, personal quest without parallel. Signature of empire lost forever on Sagarmatha.

[@MrJmasta4]

They finally discovered Irvine, insane stuff.

[@Ally5325]

Incredible, 100 years later! Where is the camera??

[@maxasaurus3008]

All of hey found was a boot with a foot in it. Tells us nothing!

[@MrJmasta4]

@@maxasaurus3008 bro what are you talking about? Finding a book with the guys name stitched on my his mother means nothing to you??? Take your tinfoil hat off

[@DK-gy7ll]

@@MrJmasta4 What I think he's saying is that they may have found one of his feet but they have not found the rest of him nor any of the equipment he was carrying. Finding his actual body is going to be difficult, but at least they now know where to look.

[@Southsideanglingclub]

@@DK-gy7ll where the foot was found would be interesting. Also the foot on its own within the sock and boot could be indicative of a catastrophic long fall and disintegration of the body. The mass of the boot on the ankle might make a detachment from the body in a long fall. The boot has the leather damaged quite badly (front end with liifted leather and broken stitches). The damage on the boot is not normal wear and tear, and seems more consistent with damage incurred from a fall rather than later damage from shifting ice if the body was interred in the glacier whole. My guess is Irvine took a really bad fall and his body fell apart. Mallory was found with a broken rope wrapped around his waist. Whether the rope break happened with Mallory's fall, rather than the pair of them falling at the same moment is difficult to tell without knowing where Irvine's remains are located. I don't know why a climber would continue a descent with a broken rope attached to his waist that was of no further use - why did he not remove it as an encumbrance if he did indeed climb with it still around his waist?

[@rawhide894]

Excellent documentary Mr Snow. Circumstances regardless , Mallory made it to the top and chose to stay there .

[@polarbearsrus6980]

Oops, wrong again... they found Mallory.

[@trypticon3293]

George Mallory fell to his death someplace below the first(?) step, and stayed hidden by snow for some 75 years before being found by the 1999 expedition. All his belongings were in his pocket and in prime condition, except for the picture of his wife; It was gone.

[@ThePierre58]

I am reading Paths of Glory, Jeffrey Archer. Great read on this very subject.

[@davymckeown4577]

Mallory told his wife he would leave her photograph at the summit, when his body was found her picture was no longer in his wallet. Call me an old romantic but I like to believe Mallory placed that photograph under a rock at the summit.

[@melanielankin8973]

Great footage, pics, interviews and narration!!

[@skylarkman2000]

Be so good to know if the two brave Guys got to the top.

[@ananiealexandru7542]

Almost 100 years later: I'm hoping that they will find that camera to prove that they were the first to climb Everest

[@sourgummiez]

The photo of his wife and his flag, both meant for the summit, were NOT found in his belongings when his body was found. I think he made it to the top.

[@Nikita-zo4gp]

Flag? According to sources Mallory didn't do that and never had a flag on prior expeditions.

[@Peekaboo-Kitty]

So why hasn't anyone else ever found the photo then?

[@Peekaboo-Kitty]

@Alfred Weber OK thanks.

[@richhughes7450]

@@Peekaboo-Kitty Its unlikely anything left up there would have survive for 30yrs till Hillary got there. also I'm not saying foul play was involved but it was suggested decades ago that if a person reached the summit and had the chance of winning the title of being first to conquer everest but found evidence that mallory had got there first, that evidence could dissapear. We will never know.

[@Aron-ru5zk]

@@Peekaboo-Kitty how long do you think a photo lasts on top of Everest?

[@danradu231]

Good discussion here. There is a lot of romanticism in this controversy (and comments) - but consider these facts: 1. George Mallory of course, was a veteran mountaineer and a very determined, tough human being - however, in his time he would have been approximately a 5.9 rock climber by most accounts. That puts him barely capable of navigating the Second Step. Now consider, it would likely be mixed ice and rock, very cold, these guys are exhausted and miserable - and 8000+ meters means they're weak and hauling heavy O2 gear and wearing winter clothing. 2. They are likely not carrying anything that resembles the type of protection in the day (hammers, pitons, etc) nor would their fingers hold up trying to place it, tie in, etc. 3. If Mallory's technical skills are borderline for this - then Irvine's are definitely not up to spec. This means that Mallory would essentially be free soloing the route. Irvine remains below. 4. If Mallory even considers soloing the pitch, he can't presume there is a walk-off. He must downclimb it (without protection). That is even trickier than ascending. 5. He would instinctively look for another way to circumvent the step - which we now know, there is none. As for the deaths of the two individuals - that is certainly up for debate. Interestingly, Mallory's body was found tied to a broken rope - so they were still likely together when he fell.

[@A-small-amount-of-peas]

Good work finding this. This is a real golden oldie

[@natashawhite8000]

Mallory...made it..I wasn't there but I believe he did an Irvine was right behind him .. peace be with them

[@jenniferholden9397]

I always wanted to call my daughter (if I had one) Mallory and my son(ditto) Irvine, I have been fascinated by these two chaps since I read a book about them as a child, I’m in my late 60s now. I hope that they find that camera with photos of them on top of Everest. His generation went through hell, so many were lost for what? Unfortunately I couldn’t persuade my husband, so my kids are called Stephen, Alexandra and Matthew, maybe in my next life.

[@KDSima]

I love hearing other people plan for their next lives. I do the same.

[@lelouchlamperouge4103]

It's a beautiful name. Why didn't he agree?

[@skylarkman2000]

Mallory and Irvine would be wonderful names. Amazing tribute to two hero mountaineers .

[@troymomma]

So who's in charge of dishing out your next life?

[@mortalclown3812]

Terrific channel with balanced coverage and the history of alpinists when the territories were wide open. Props, David Snow.

[@sonamtamang8605]

We are proud to be Nepalese

[@denebolamau6288]

As well you should be. You and your country are amazing and so very beautiful!

[@sonamtamang8605]

Welcome

[@dana102083]

The Nepalese are some of the kindest people I've met that immigrated to Canada! I wish to go there some day. 🙏💗🖖

[@siobhanmurphy3106]

I love watching your videos thanks for sharing

[@pilotactor777]

" Now they will never grow old, and I'm very sure they will not change places with either of us"

[@kevinbrooks1104]

They are frozen to a rock on a hill, that would be a bad trade. That said I'm sure just before he froze . He was wishing he would have stayed home

[@cousinleigh1470]

3 kids at home am sure that’s what went through his mind

[@bambangsuseno8764]

George Herbert Leigh Mallory: "Have we vanquished an enemy? None but ourselves."

[@thegreatexaggerator9077]

Very well done. Thank you for sharing

[@Housey1985]

As Ed Viesturs says “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory…” I have incredible respect for Mallory and Irvine but regardless of whether they summited or not the laurels belong to Hilary and Tenzing.

[@taotoo2]

Mallory might have seen it the other way around.

[@Housey1985]

@@taotoo2 perhaps…though it doesn’t change my thoughts on what the pertinent issue here is…

[@Housey1985]

@Leonard squirrel want to try and make sense fella?

[@Dee-nonamnamrson8718]

@@Housey1985 The laurels for being the first to summit would deserve to go to Mallory, the first to summit and live will always belong to Hillary. If Mallory did indeed summit, the fact that he died in the process doesn't change anything.

[@GlennDavey]

they say something similar about takeoffs and landings in aviation...

[@anselmobertoncini1518]

Bravo! Incrível saber sobre a coragem e determinação desses homens de valor .Com equipamentos e ciência precária desafiar o colossal Everest. Toda Honra a estes Bravos!

[@blakebarone1809]

These were such hard men. Hardened by the loss of life that they all undoubtedly experienced and hardened by the lack of modern comforts. Incredible men.

[@VTPSTTU]

I suspect that he made it, but we'll never know. Even if they find the camera, I doubt that the film will be good enough to process into images. Furthermore, if Irvine descended alone and gave Mallory his oxygen as the one writer suggests, then there wouldn't be any pictures from the summit. If someone did find proof that they reached the summit, that would be an incredible change in history. I'd love for some climber to find the picture of Mallory's wife on the summit.

[@Bella.216]

It's been proven that Mallory was tied up to Irving, he had broken ribs and a rip of skin on his back where the rope dug into. And the end of the rope was broken. He had splatter of blood on his jacket they believe he feel twice. I however believe he only fell once due to the fact that the blood clearly was from his head injury because blood was mainly on his left where the ice axe hit his left temple. He also had dried blood on his face. I've read everything on the his body and seen the photos of his clothes. I've been trying to figure out how he died since he was found. Read everything about his life lol. I don't think he made it because of the storm. Also if you do some research on Mallory he knew Irvine wasn't a climber he wouldn't leave him alone he just wouldn't. So Irvine may have fallen into the glacier or he's buried in the snow.

[@jmspiers]

@@Bella.216 you're right, but the fact that they were roped together when they fell does not mean that Mallory could not have taken Irving's oxygen and pushed for the summit. In theory, he could have either caught up with Irving on the way down, or Irving could have waited for him. They could have roped themselves back together at that point. For all we know, Mallory could have found Irving in terrible shape, and roped them together to try to rescue him. It's all speculation of course. I'm just pointing out that there are multiple ways to interpret Mallory's injuries. At least that's my take.

[@sirwence9949]

never needed the Camera needed to search the zipper pockets for the Summit rocks which were a prime goal of his. But instead they tore things apart - all haphazard

[@CrystalMethEnjoyer]

Kodak (Creators of that exact camera and film) believe firmly that the film can survive thanks to the cold.

[@washedupwarvet2027]

@@CrystalMethEnjoyer they said possibly

[@Bella.216]

Just proves that Sandy was fit and strong enough for the climb. Everyone thought that Sandy was the one who probably died first or he was a cause of a accident. It was George that slipped, he was so close to camp. Poor Sandy had to watch his friend die on him. Sandy probably died of exposure. I have a feeling that the Chinese kicked his body over the mountain. Still these two are my heros. If you haven't already read on Sandy, you really should. He looked up to Mallory and Odell. He was extremely excited to go!!

[@jmspiers]

I might be mistaken, but I think Wang reported discovering the body while alone. If so, I doubt their expedition was willing to postpone their own ascent and take additional risks just to go roll a dead person's body off of a cliff. It wasn't like they were the ones who killed him!

[@tecnolover2642]

We don't know how Sandy died or where or when. So your whole comment is speculation only.

[@mortalclown3812]

Josie, your comment about the Chinese is specious at best.

[@114D]

I don’t want to agree with you but I think you’re right. 2 scenarios: 1. Chinese found him and tossed him off. Risking lives for the country to be first from the North. 2. Sandy fell further down than Mallory did. GLM had rope around him that broke. Also has a puncture wound on his head. I believe he lead and Sandy fell past GLM. GLM then used the rope to stop the fall of both men by tugging on it to stop Sandy from falling. He tried to leverage the mountain on his fall and broke his leg. The rope snapped while he did this continued to fall and he used his axe to try and slow the fall and it bounced off the mountain and stuck him in his head. He tried to slow his fall from how he was found facing toward the mountain and eventually came to a stop. Severely wounded, but still alive, he struggled for a few moments and passed out and froze to death never waking up. Sandy, if not found by the Chinese, is somewhere below GLM. GLM was found by a fluke. Conrad was away from their search area.

[@cs-mh2dh]

When Mallory's body was found, the rope tied around his waist was servered. Mallory had two injuries that suggests he fell. Those two facts indicate Mallory had fallen and Sandy would have cut the rope to avoid falling himself. He may have been too exhausted to pull Mallory up.

[@seanbaskett5506]

Knowing what I know of George Mallory, by many accounts, I am convinced that he reached the summit. I don't know what happened to Irvine, but they both knew the honor of The Empire and The Crown was at stake. I know from Mallory's previous climbs he was talented and climbed with an unusual, undulating style that many said seemed to propel him upward, and Irvine was more conventional (yet still capable) in his approach, chosen for his endurance and knowledge of oxygen sets. I'm sure they ran out, but I think it would have given them just enough to get there. They would have continued on when they both knew they should turn around, Mallory in particular being the type to throw caution to the wind with that final prize so close. I just know Mallory summited.

[@davejenvey3598]

I believe.

[@DrewDragoon]

It's a romanticized fairy tale but unfortunately real life is not so neat and tidy with a good ending. I believe if he were alive today he could easily scale Everest with modern tools and using the proper trail however back in 1924 he never made it.

[@Nikita-zo4gp]

@@DrewDragoon But should we ignore that those men weren't (physically and mentally) the same as they are 100 ys later.

[@jonschlottig9584]

@@Nikita-zo4gp they were a lot tougher. It's incredible they made it that high imo.

[@Nikita-zo4gp]

@@jonschlottig9584 that's what I meant to point out.

[@AshleyHarleyman]

I believe George Mallory make it to the summit. I believe it because all the clues point to that. Unfortunately, exhaustion led to the deaths of both men in their attempt to descend. Sad story.

[@akschmidt2085]

Love the old footage

[@behindthespotlight7983]

17:26 I greatly appreciate that this is presented within the context of its day. Particularly with reference to WW1. Listening to the rueful thoughts of these men, one wonders what they’d have said had they known that WW1 “part two” would be a mere 21 years following what was then known as The Great War?

[@3928damian]

I agree with those who feel Mallory made the summit. However, I can also see the possibility that he may have deposited the missing photo and flag at whatever high point he did reach, as he likely knew he would never be able to make another attempt. I've often thought that the solution to this argument is to grant Mallory and Irvine the *symbolic* record of "first summit", but giving Hillary and Norgay the record of "first successful summit", signifying the (in my opinion) more important summit AND successful return to camp... Until we find the camera, and are able to develop a photo from the summit, we will never know the full truth of the day. Edit: comment made shortly before the interview with Sir Edmund... Lol. Should teach me to be more patient...

[@TheMountainQueen]

Very good story. W Irvine and Mallory👍👍

[@ADE300867]

Those were the days when people were made of sterner stuff, steely grit, enthusiasm and determination. Do hope this recent discovery answers some of the crucial questions. RIP brave men and pioneers.

[@barbaranneboyer7997]

amazed at how little they wear and carry compared with todays climbers.

[@rawhide894]

All said and done, Mallory remains on the top.

[@bluevalentine2009]

I can buy the honor, courage, prestige, joy, and storytelling Everest offers. I would rather tell stories with my beautiful wife. Make eternal memories and most of all I owe it to my wife who may look at me with one drop of fear in her eye, and I would say- love, OK-, hug her, and say I won't go. Should she support my dreams and goals? Yes. But my love for her is more important than any dream or goal of mine. For my greatest goal and dream is to make her happy and spend my life with her. That is #1, everything else is #2. An inanimate object that is emotionless and doesn't care whether i defeat it or not, will never be as important to me as my darling wife.

[@gewizz2]

imagine if we had a small hatch on the peak of everest that went down into the mountain and into a cozy room with wood fireplace, bar, internet, bedrooms, swimming pools, etc.

[@kendohmassif1984]

😂😂😂 wtf made you think of that?! Haha!

[@kendohmassif1984]

Like a hobbit house?

[@gewizz2]

@@kendohmassif1984 Are YoU suggesting that drugs made me think of it?

[@brera2434]

...and a slide back down! Wheeeeeeeeeee🎉

[@lillysummer3546]

They made these in India. But not the exact same. The long routes leading from one place to the mountains and “fire place”

[@Bella.216]

Mad respect to Hillary for giving respect to Mallory and Sandy

[@tecnolover2642]

Conrad Anker tends to believe Mallory likely didnt make the second step so didnt make the summit. But here is a major falacy. Mallory didnt climb the second step and never planned to climb it as found in his personal writings. This is a modern route and its a fallacy to extrapolate that an expedition in1924 would follow the modern route which has a ladder installed! It was traversed below as Norton did. Odell saw the figures get to the summit ridge at 12:50pm well past the the second step and ascending what seems to be the third step at the base of the summit ridge. Also Odell said they now had the world altitude record from where he last saw them so he saw them above where Norton go to so that puts them at the third step. There was no obstacle on that summit ridge that would have stop them and his fall site was way back below the yellow band and the ice Axe found so its 99% they made it to the summit and died in the descent due to poor visibility and cold.

[@josm1481]

I agree. Tracy implied Anker only says they didn't make it based on his own skills. Tracy showed Anker's climbing rate was incredibly slow. Whereas the 1920's guys were incredibly quick. One of the teams made 800ft/hr above 26,000ft or something. Tracy compared climbing rates of the pre war v post war and if anything you would say they were quicker. Although, there are very few pre war times at those altitudes.

[@MaxExpatr]

I climbed for decades and learned that sometimes routes change due to things falling off. ( like long ledge on the NW face of Half Dome ) or an unseasonal build up of snow or ice that cover usually technical parts of a route. Most of the climbers who have been on Everest and climbed to the summit agree that it would almost impossible for Mallory and Irvine to climb at the level needed for the second step. Here is my point. Nobody knows what the route was like in 1924. Could there have been a rock formation there that calved off during the 40 some years between human visits making the second strep much easier? Could there have been an unusual snow or ice build up that made it possible to climb. What were the snow conditions in the 1920's. I believe there were and Mallory and Irvine did summit. That's my story and I'am sticking to it. Adios Ya'll

[@OKuusava]

Such a wishful thinking, like most of in here.

[@marcmonnerat4850]

Exactly my thoughts. Routes are not imuables, and these days some ascent are becoming easier or impossible, due to falling rocks or melting ice.

[@badmonkey2222]

Well we know the answer to one of the questions that Mallory did not die of exposure, he died from a fall, his body was found in 99, Irving's body is believed to be directly above that point in a rock crevice where the Chinese climber saw it but but several Expeditions have failed to find it.

[@GlennDavey]

those last hours must have been really painful, frustrating and existential

[@badmonkey2222]

@@GlennDavey he didn't live long after the fall in fact they think right at the very end of the fall when he was sliding down his ice axe came up and pierced his skull killing him instantly.

[@kristoffersmith8289]

@@badmonkey2222 Nah, they think the mob that found him punched a few holes in him trying to dig him out of the ice

[@johnhassall1782]

It's something we'll never know for sure,, but would Hillary admit there were signs of Mallorys and Irvine summit 🤔

[@Scyllax]

A mountaineering record only counts if you get back alive.

[@johnhassall1782]

@@Scyllax maybe,, technically your only halfway there,,, but do summits with bottled oxygen count,, technically your lowering the mountain! I'm not qualified to judge either way as I'm not a mountaineer,, I think read that in a book by Goran kropp!

[@Bella.216]

First No way Hillary would have seen Mallory or Sandy as he climbed up through Napul Mallory climbed through the North through Tibet. 30 years had passed as well. I believe the Chinese know more and probably did see Sandy

[@MickeyHassan]

@@Scyllax Yes, but a rule set up by the latecomers so it doesn't apply to those two.

[@jeremyrhansen6637]

Or get rid of the proof??

[@donbrashsux]

Certainly was a hero either way

[@daverudd-zt3ob]

Nice doco this, remember seeing it years ago. Also refreshing not to see umpteen comments about how the Sherpa are being exploited, despite it being mandatory that climbers require guides and MUST employ Sherpas, whom are well paid and recognised.

[@brettpage5239]

A great lead up to “The Wildest Dream.”

[@persephone2706]

Is this also a documentary?

[@lauratroxel24]

Yes, this is Conrad Anker's tale of finding Mallory and climbing in 1924 gear. It's very good!

[@melinafuchs921]

Wer es schafft den Everest zu besteigen und lebendig wieder herunter kommt, der wird ALLES andere im Leben auch schaffen können. Dieser Gedanke ist die Quelle meiner Faszination für den Everest.

[@thekurdishtapes8317]

it's a flawed analogy though

[@CaptainHaddock-x8u]

George Mallory did NOT really say of Mt. Everest, "Because it is there". It is believed this was somewhat hyped by the then tabloid-like New York journalists who sensationalized Mallory's answer for their own purpose. Mallory never uttered that phrase as an answer when asked why he was climbing Mt. Everest.

[@annnee6818]

Giving such a detailed description of what you think Mallory did is not research it's fantasy, he can't possibly know any of this

[@mglenn7092]

Mallory himself said this in 1924, before dying: "To win the game he has first to reach the mountain's summit - but, further, he has to descend in safety." Game Point - Tenzing Norgay & Edmund Hillary. Because Mallory & Irvine did not complete the whole climb, whether they reached the summit or not.

[@HerrStaale]

So this generation logic.. Non existent.. Most preferer to survive, but if u reach the top first, u are first at top.. Come on

[@spaceman61]

you dont have to make it back down to be the first to summit, the first to reach the summit is the first to reach the summit, wether you make it back down or not.

[@Idekreally]

@@spaceman61 Hillary simps will never realize this. Obviously Hillary is a legend and the first to go up and come back down. But if Mallory is the first to summit it’s almost like insulting to them for some reason

[@TaxingIsThieving]

​@spaceman8839 He didn't win. He lost. He never got to tell the tale.

[@dudley5658]

It’s much more impressive when you do it without waiting in line.

[@swirling565]

I feel Mallory and Irvine made it to the top of the world in 1924. However, its likely Mallory slipped on the way down and died along with Irvine. Nevertheless, I think Sir Edmund and Tenzing still deserve honour for getting down alive.

[@teresacorrigan3076]

🇨🇦wow. Did the go over the ice field and all that? Tweed jackets? Surely there were better clothes available? You have to admire them. And the whole team. This is a very interesting video.

[@jcdova29]

Sir. Hillary was a humble deserving man of such feat. I want to believe that Mallory and his partner reached the summit. But only the mountain knows what happened.

[@Errcyco]

Had to do it with super heavy, non-technical clothing and primitive terrible climbing gear. The O tanks didn’t even work in the cold. The fact they made it to the summit or whatever itself is amazing just for the fact they had no good gear and honestly, no real understanding of altitude sickness.. they walked into a meat grinder blind, just for the 1% chance they dodged all the blades and made it through. Badass.

[@Grandizer8989]

If I ever climb the Mallory route up Everest, I’m going to hide a vintage 1920s camera up there where it could be found...

[@Grandizer8989]

@@JP-qm4tn you suck at life

[@Armageddon-qo4wy]

@@pbysome lol😂

[@peterh.1521]

George Herbert Leigh Mallory I think was the first man on the top of the world, Mount Everest.

[@Bodhidhamma108]

Remarkable endeavour ,remarkable film.

[@trackpackgt877]

turns out the Chinese guy was right they found Mallory below the ice axe in 1999. They were descending Mallory and Irvine made it to the top IMO. cool video

[@yutub69]

Some of the footage of this documentary includes scenes from the film/documentary "The Epic of Everest" (1924) by J.B.L. Noel (Captain Noel) where, according to the British Film Institute it is The official record of Mallory and Irvine's 1924 expedition. When George Mallory and Sandy Irvine attempted to reach the summit of Everest in 1924 they came closer than any previous attempt. Inspired by the work of Herbert Ponting (The Great White Silence) Captain Noel filmed in the harshest of conditions, with specially adapted equipment, to capture the drama of the fateful expedition. .End of quote.

[@benjaminwaters241]

It’s great to see that Tom Holzel has always been wrong. His first theory was proven wrong when they found Mallory with clear evidence he and Irvine had been tied together before death, and his second theory about Irvines body is at least partly wrong because we now have his foot!

[@kimjohnson8471]

I hope they find the camera. Perhaps it could provide greater insights.

[@PeterFairhurst-v3e]

I've read several books on this over the years. There were many remarkable men on these Everest expeditions; men who had been through the Great War. Mallory had told his wife that if he got within a few hundred yards of the summit he wouldn't turn back. But Mother nature's weather could overcome the most determined fellow and Mallory was certainly that. The photo of his wife? If it had been found in his wallet we'd know he hadn't made it. Did he have one last look at it as he lay badly injured in the snow? Will they find the camera, and if they do, will it provide anything?

[@rahulbose4323]

What tenacity. Hat's off

[@kevin6293]

My guess is that they turned back when the storm came in, and Irvine slipped and took Mallory with him. Irvine was a young inexperienced climber.

[@theresaterry164]

Has 3:57 anyone studied the pic of George Mallory’s shoes/boots ? Plain leather with heel and some small spikes,how did he get through all that snow and ice in those.

[@mvsapparao3788]

And the 60 ft of sheer smooth rock of the second pitch of the Second Step

[@Grandmaster_Dragonborn]

Credit for Sir Edmund Hillary for taking the idea of Mallory "downgrading" him to the first to return alive from Everest in good fun.

[@Kyleinasailing]

Mallory went up with his Tweed jacket. All of them amazing people.

[@kc72186]

These gentlemen were the extreme sportsmen of their day 🍻

[@bluesorbliss4331]

This documentary was made in the 80s I presume, now, a 100 years later we know what happened to those two men. In the light of finding Irvine's foot this year (2024) and finding Mallory's body in 1999, we are sure of their fates, however, the hunt for Irvine's camera is still on. Finding it will determine if they made it to the summit. If they do find such proof it will rewrite history and make them the first pair to reach Mount Everest peak. I am eagerly waiting for any such news. Rest in peace all the climbers, the forever heroes of the human spirit, will and determination.

[@Spike-sk7ql]

Like it or not, Mr. Hillary, Mallory, and Irvin beat you there. They didnt make it back, but they beat you there. Michael Tracy has a great playlist on this. I highly suggest it to anyone interested in this subject.

[@robertdysonn]

To me he’s right. You can’t claim to have the first assent of a mountain if you fail to survive the dissent and leave the entire thing up in questions forever.

[@taotoo2]

It's ironic that he used the word "ascent", as the first ascent is the first ascent, regardless of getting down or not. I take your point about proof though.

[@robertdysonn]

@Leonard squirrel well I guess you’ve got great English skills. I guess the question becomes is it a successful ascent when you end up splattered on the side of a rock on your way back with no proof at all whether or not you were actually on your way down when you died?

[@robertdysonn]

@Leonard squirrel yeah but the last evidence of Mallory and Irvine were from accounts from a witness who was much further down the mountain and they still had a couple hundred feet to go. Just don’t think it should go down in the logbooks as the first ascent when we don’t know and they didn’t even survive which makes it unsuccessful in the big term anyway. We all have our own opinions but if you like writing the history books on assumptions then I’m not all for that

[@robertdysonn]

@Leonard squirrel well one thing we do have that’s a little more important in the later expedition is people who actually were there, called witnesses. Nothings 100% guarantee but there’s far more evidence of the second attempt. I don’t even think they’ve ever even found Irvine‘s body and Mallorys didn’t have anything on it to say anything at all about what actually happened and of course he’s not talking much when the group and 53 came down telling their stories.

[@GlockFan19]

Robert Dyson Check your grammar, dude…otherwise, I agree with you.

[@golden1789]

Thank you

[@DavidSnowClimbing]

You're welcome

[@billbright1755]

I somehow feel the ice axe was dropped by Mallory as he was descending after separation from Irvine on the way up. He missed Irvine on the way down and when he slipped off to his death he had just paused to adjust his left boot and had loosened the laces. By a quirk he lost grip on his axe and just as quirky it lodged its self as Mallory slipped off the ridge. His left boot was never found and his right lower leg had been badly broken. His left foot was not frostbite damaged in life but freeze dried after death.

[@sarahpiaggio2693]

It seems possible or even probable that they got to the top. But most accidents happen on the way down, so once you've got to the top of the mountain, you're only at the halfway point and the most difficult and challenging part of the climb is still ahead of you.

[@sarahpiaggio2693]

@Browsing Content what they did was extraordinary anyway, since they were using such basic gear and didn't have access to things like oxygen. And also because they weren't doing what people do nowadays ie following a tried-and-tested route; they were testing out a route that no one could have told them was manageable. So they were doing something remarkable to start with. But on one of the mallory programmes, they say that mallory promised his wife that he would leave a photo of her at the summit in her honour. When they eventually found his body, all his gear was present except for the photo, which was gone. It seems likely that if he hadn't made it, he'd still have the photo. I also heard that the location where his body was found makes it likely that he was descending. It's obviously not provable that he summited but I think it quite possible, given the kind of person we're talking about and what he'd already achieved.

[@josm1481]

Odell's observations are key. He said they were a short distance from the final pyramid, 200m to go, going strong and the weather was good. It's highly likely that did make it. Look up Michael Tracy's videos he goes through why.

[@josm1481]

@Browsing Content the equipment question isn't that big. For example, the oxygen set up they used was almost identical in weight and capacity as Hillary's. It's now universally accepted the clothing was adequate. Not as good as today's but good enough.

[@NASkeywest]

The the two of them made it to the Steppe (now known as the Mallory step) then they had to have made it to the summit.

[@Killjoy1204]

The thing was they were climbing during perfect storm, and during storm it's impossible to climb the last step because there were no hard lines and not much protection

[@hullcityafc72]

@@Killjoy1204 It's called the Hillary Step, not the Mallory step. But I wonder if that was as far as Mallory got as well.

[@Killjoy1204]

@@hullcityafc72 I know about hillary step, I never mentioned Mallory step in my comment did I? I just mentioned last step which there are 3 from north col side as well !

[@giddygrub7176]

@@hullcityafc72 Hillary step is on the other side of the mountain. Maybe the original comment meant some people now call the step where Mallory and Irvine were last seen as the Mallory step? Idk.

[@ralphbooger4756]

@@Killjoy1204 it was not a storm... not even close!

[@bigwaidave4865]

Any successful summit is a round-trip. 🙏

[@jmspiers]

I understand the reasoning behind that opinion, but I think the issue is more nuanced. Here's what I mean: If we adopt that view, then when do we decide that a summit was not successful? If a person dies on the trek back from basecamp then do we say they did not summit? If they develop high altitude sickness and have to be rescued on the way down, then do we say they did not summit? I am not a mountaineer, but it seems that this logic only applies to Mallory and Irving. If Hillary had died on the way down then I doubt anyone would claim he did not summit. Why? Because there is evidence that he reached the top. If someone found evidence that Mallory reached the summit, then I think he should be credited with the first ascent. However, I recognize that others feel differently, and I respect their opinion.

[@bigwaidave4865]

@@jmspiers interesting query ; but until proof is found (ie The camera which shows them on the summit) it’s academic . IMO and that of others … they may have reached the second step of the yellow band, took a look and were on the way down WO having reached the summit, when they had an accident; in any event the conversation you envision is just that ; one cannot rewrite history based merely on conjecture and speculation. 👍

[@jmspiers]

@@bigwaidave4865 yes, my question was rhetorical. It really is a matter of opinion. I just encourage people to be consistent. I have never heard someone say something like this of a modern climber: "So-and-so died in an avalanche while they were descending from the top of Mount Everest. They left a memento at the top, but we removed it because reaching the top does not count as summiting unless you make it back down alive." That rule seems to be limited to discussions about Mallory. Their opinion would make sense if there was any indication that Mallory and Irving died because they made a mistake. In reality, though, none of us know what caused them to not return. It could have been something that would have killed modern mountaineers who have summited Everest many times.

[@pendragonU]

BWAAAAAHAHAHAHA This seems to be again and again the last resort to hope of some, like: "if you were Indiana Jones and found the Ark but we Nazis get it before you're "successfully" back... because you will be dead and we will help... you don't get any credit our Fuhrer will" Even better: If you are the crew of the Enola Gay and dropped The Bomb, but couldn't make it back safe in the return flight....Mission was never accomplished. Feat done, because you died in the Enterprise" Who operates with this pseudo-mountain goat "logic"???? THe summit is the feat achieved, not making it back in time for the Champagne party in the locker room, the Game was on the Field and yoou deed indeed SCORED the summit. Everything after is just prologue.

[@Housey1985]

@@pendragonU I think you mean epilogue…don’t agree with your logic either

[@LadyOaksNZ]

Sir Ed Hilary and Tenzing Norgay will always be LEGEND!!! 💯💯💯

[@cbachinger]

20 min...very good theory!

[@Jack_The_Ripper_Here]

No documentary ever shows the true scale of these mountains. The North Face of Everest is 7 km wide, 4.4 miles. I placed on Google Earth 7km over my city to understand the true scale of this mountain. It's half of my city. I have watched a lot of documentaries about Everest but nobody ever explains the size of that mountain.

[@themountainknights]

Great information

[@DavidSnowClimbing]

Glad you liked it

[@itsobvious23]

Prob had a quick smoke at the top,sang their public school song ,said god save the king ,adjusted the tweeds ,tightened the laces on the brogues and started down again, recounting old stories knowing they didnt have a hope of survival...

[@robertcandido5693]

Where was Mallory's body found in relation to the pick axe?

[@AbleHammer]

I think he made it. When they found the body of Mallory the items he said he was going to leave at the summit were gone from his body. Making the summit no matter what is what most likely killed him on the decent just like today.

[@alimccreery755]

I don’t care if Mallory and Irvine made it to the summit they were pioneers in the mountaineer community. We still need to pay attention to experience and inexperienced people who are getting themselves killed even when they are aware of what can happen. Those Sherpa’s are the salt of the earth.

[@kocickakitty143]

Tweed jacket with a cotton windsuit. I miss the good old days.

[@lostinnevermore5354]

Rest In Peace Noel.