Hacking the Starlink Router to run DC Power

[@tobywonkanobe5345]

Did the first version. Works beautifully!!!!!

[@dathat555]

As much as I enjoy watching the hackery in general, I suspect the two methods you showed, PoE injection and 12/48v injection to the original router, will be the most popular. Going further into custom PCBs or enclosures would be for a small audience that would actually implement. Though I and others would watch it for sure anyway. 🙂 Even if the hack does not apply to my situation I tend to learn something.

[@Everlanders]

Remember, our videos don't have advertisements enabled for the first 48 hours, So make sure to have the Notification Bell set to "all" to see our videos without the Ads 👍

[@VioletNoRegard]

Ty!

[@Everlanders]

Ask any questions about USB C here, all caps only!

[@Everlanders]

Sure, we've been running our laptops from DC to DC converters for years... Even the 320w powerhouse machine is no problem...

[@Everlanders]

Here you go: amzn.to/3GB4eJq

[@Everlanders]

I'm having a hard time following what you're asking...

[@stevebot]

WHY OH WHY DID THEY MAKE MULTIPLE VOLTAGES IN THE SAME CONNECTOR??

[@Everlanders]

Because the devices can handshake in software for the voltage it wants and can send the maximum power for the fastest charge.

[@SyberPrepper]

I'm with Julio. Thanks for the excellent instruction.

[@mindshelfpro]

You went through a whole lot of trouble to show these hacks on YT. Thank you for your effort!

[@jawajava25]

Would love to see a wattage draw comparison. Inverter ac power vs straight from dc battery source while starlink is powered up to see how much energy savings you can get with a modification like this. Great videos. Thanks for sharing!

[@Everlanders]

This was already done in previous videos...

[@some1private]

I don't even need to do this (not yet at least)... Yet here I am, learning and expanding my frame of reference as to what is possible. Love your videos!

[@Patriarchtech]

Hey man I cannot believe I haven't seen this channel before. First of all I love Canada and Canadians - second I love your electronic projects. You are very good at explaining everything. Also the Camper and automations you have built are epic - so inspirational to me. I am building solar on my balcony in Tokyo and at the same time automating my family's home to save on the electricity bill. You have so many ideas and thank you for sharing. All the best sincerely from a Dane living in Tokyo.

[@tcrichton]

I'd also go Dishy DC and my own router as you have but it was still great to see how you'd achieve a DC conversion. It probably seems obvious to you but every video has taught me something I didn't know or given me an approach I hadn't considered.

[@Everlanders]

Thanks so much!

[@Pattys.Adventure]

Q: re your ROUTER. Jason: Love your videos. Thanks for doing them. Why the MOFI5500-5GXe LTE-RM520 4G/LTE/5G ROUTER? It's like $500. Seems pretty expensive, and there seem like many others much cheaper. I've taken your advice on the Dishy Dualie DC Power Supply (thanks for highlighting them, great guy out of Nanaimo, BC!) and have it installed to power a the newly released v3 Starlink kickstand dish, but don't yet have a wifi router. If you were starting from scratch, would you order the Mofi 5500 router for $500 or some other one? (I know that Mofi is a Canadian company, but still....) :) Do you have it rigged such that you get WIFI outside your rig, or does the aluminum siding of the rig keep the wifi inside the rig?

[@Everlanders]

If it's too expensive, buy something cheaper... We have 500m of wifi, and no aluminum, not sure where you're getting these ideas.

[@Pattys.Adventure]

@@Everlanders Sorry for my confusion. Are you saying you have 500 meters of WIFI?! As in, you can be 500 meters away from your vehicle and still get Wifi? If so, then that certainly would justify the cost! Thanks for your assistance. I appreciate it.

[@bentheguru4986]

Router is in the dish. The turd-box only holds PoE supply and wireless access point.

[@Everlanders]

Yup, exactly right 👍

[@jackg8478]

I vote for the 3d printed version

[@OFFGRID_Trucker]

Hey there.. Months ago when you created this video.. because I'm a subscriber and love the video content.. I ordered one of them Dishy Duallies. I just got mine in the mail last week. I thought I was never gonna see it.. haha.. So.. I'm proficient with a soldering iron\gun. So I'll order some WEGO 221's... but the LM2956.. There are several to choose from. I paused the video to view yours as close as I could.. tried to compare which one is the one you used and am hoping it's the #10Gtek# Buck Converter Step Down Module LM2596 DC to DC Voltage Regulator, 3.0~40V to 1.5~35V Power Supply Module, Pack of 2 version. Also.. Where can I obtain one of them fancy cases for it with YOUR logo on it..??? :)

[@arvidbjorkstrom6554]

Maybe you know this already, but the Wago 221 have probe holes on the opposite side of where ether cables go. That way you can easily measure when all holes are occupied =)

[@gregsmith7537]

Thanks for an excellent tutorial, you did a great job thanks!

[@grahamcarter1216]

If you added a diode in series with the 12V and 48V wires to the router, preferably Shottky diodes to minimise voltage drop, then you *may* protect the router from someone inadvertently connecting both DC and mains AC supplies at the same time. ** NOTE ** subject to verification!!

[@sxcv8131]

I rarely comment, but that's the first Starlink-related video I see where a person knows what they do and use proper (WAGO) connectors for cables. Also, thanks for showing up the insides. I had no idea these internal power connectors are so flimsy, you're actually providing thicker cables than pins themselves. I guess I'd rather go with replacing whole original cable and connector in the Dishy (quite destructive sadly), this will allow to use custom PoE injector and ditch that awful original cable connector. Thanks for the video!

[@ericsupanga4376]

Hello sir, what is the reason why may converter 12v to 48v 3amp, not power may Starlink Desh? What do you recommend?

[@dalendru]

Love the video. I have ordered a Dishy DC as I think it is certainly the most elegant solution and I am able to wait for it’s arrival. If I was to chose one of the hacks you showed in this video, it would certainly be the first one and I didn’t really think all the extra work of the second, and the risk of damaging the unit, is worth it. Had I not already ordered the Dishy DC, I certainly would be interested in an option where I was able to print a new back to the router and have an inclosed dc/dc converter. 😊

[@laudi1898]

Good Job!!!! Love the videos. I would like to see the 3D-printed version. Thanks again for ALL the videos; I am in the process of making the 12-volt water heater now. Thanks again!!

[@anunakischile8673]

1:25 jajjaj😂

[@jimbosander]

Ya had me at "these are really hard to get off" (kerplunk), well done :) 1:27

[@Everlanders]

I think we'll get on just fine...

[@sapperdeflap]

Hacking is just a fancy word for modifying? Because that's what it is, namely a modified Starlink...

[@Everlanders]

Thanks for watching and commenting, it really helps the algorithm!

[@tra757200]

I wonder why SpaceX doesn't have a DC volt kit for the "roam" StarLink. Maybe it comes with the flat mount kit, which is a super duper version with higher speeds and better connections, hence the $2.5k. Good idea with adding the board connector. I wonder if you could have your friend make a small PCB that you would solder directly down to the power connections on the toaster with small lugs to attach wires to and tap power from that. If youi printed a case, make it a real toaster. Another great video!

[@Everlanders]

No DC options from SpaceX yet, they are all AC mains powered.

[@PaulNoyola]

If I want to only power the router board and not attach a dishy, because I just need a mesh node, do I only need to worry about attaching the 12v side? Update: powering the unit with only the 12v will power the board to function as a mesh node. As suspected, the 48v handles the dish - so if no dish, you can leave all the 48v components out. I worked this up into a self contained, solar powered mesh node for a remote area with no AC power. Thank you for this video @everlanders - it helped me figure this out

[@Everlanders]

Probably, won't hurt anything to try.

[@MovingPicturesAfrica]

Discovered your channel while searching for starlink RV videos but really enjoying your other content as well. I have just imported a v2 starlink (its still not available in South Africa) and i have ordered the Dishy DC. I was also planning to do a flat mount to put the dish on the roof of my 4x4. But now the v3 dish has been announced and its already flat. Plus it looks much easier to convert to 12v. Not sure if i should sell my v2 kit and wait, or continue with my plans. I dont urgently need remote internet. What would you do?

[@Everlanders]

I'm not going to bother with V3... You do as you like.

[@MovingPicturesAfrica]

@@Everlanders yeah I'll probably hold off the 12v conversion and flat mount for now and get the new dish when it comes out. The only drawback of the new kit 8s that it does draw quite a bit more power (75-100W as compared to the 50-75W of the v2).

[@Everlanders]

Or 27 watts if you run it from Dishy DC

[@MovingPicturesAfrica]

​@@Everlandersyeah. I'm guessing the new one will also pull less power if powered directly from 12v

[@MovingPicturesAfrica]

@@Everlanders Does this 27W include power to the router?

[@ApteraEV2024]

Subbed 🔔 In the Dubbley Do, 😅 Thanks for Sharing All That WORK! 👊 Bro! ALL CAPS 4 READABILITY?

[@Everlanders]

such readable, most winning!

[@MrAlvinDude]

I always enjoy your videos. They are always thorough, and yet concise and to the point. About the subtexts: Though not a necessity for me, I still find it nice to have the text along with the voice. I hope that the no-english speaking viewers might chime in as well, as I know that the auto-translations works better when the complete original language transcript is available to the translator robots.

[@stephenisaac7357]

I am told the 48 VDC is actually only necessary for the snow melt function. What happens if one only connects 12 volts?

[@Everlanders]

That's false. Nothing happens at 12v

[@justtruckinaround273]

What gauge/amp wire are you using for the 2nd method, please? I've started my conversion 👍🏼

[@Everlanders]

The header pins your soldering to are equivalent to 24 AWG, so anything close will be fine, 18 to 24 AWG...

[@justtruckinaround273]

@Everlanders thanks, it's not the header pins method, it's the more invasive 2nd method you did, straight onto the pcb

[@Everlanders]

Oh, okay, that's even more forgiving... 12 to 22 AWG would be many times more than sufficient and easy to work with.

[@justtruckinaround273]

@Everlanders great stuff thank you. You make it look easy hahaha!!!

[@Badgeweefixstuff]

Very good video. Awesome to be able to run off 12v. Thanks 🛠️🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦

[@tokdriz1807]

HI friend, nice video. Can you explain, how to implement an external WiFi Antenna? This router provides the worst WiFi Signal rate i have ever seen ....

[@Everlanders]

It has nothing to do with the antennas, but the radio itself, I have completely bypassed the original Wi-Fi with this solution: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJ2of6B3ntCGh7M

[@JustAskDave]

Nice work! However you can do without the 12v adaptor if running in 12v batteries. Has been confirmed that the 12v is just running into a power adaptor with an input of 11 to 16v acceptable. Outputs are all below 5v

[@Everlanders]

Please cite your sources.

[@JustAskDave]

​​@@Everlanders there was a post a month or two ago with comments from one of the guys who works with these. The 8892 power supply chip specs quote up to 16v input! Trying to find the post and if I can I will link it for you. He also showed testing up to 16v with no issues. By the way thanks for showing this, I was wondering if it could be powered remotely with the mains power supply still in place for optional use.

[@JustAskDave]

​​@@Everlanders didn't find the post, but did find the person it came from, Oleg Kutkov, senior engineer at Ubiquity Ukraine and developer of a lot of add ons for Starlink.

[@buikemm]

Hi, I got a new starlink and the router is damaged as the USB C input for the cable that comes from the dish is damaged. So when you insert, the router doesn't recognise that dish is connected. Do you think it can be repaired? Can the port in the router be repaired so as to accept the dish cable correctly?

[@Everlanders]

If your story is try why wouldn't you just get them to replace it...?

[@TimRiker]

Doesn't the DIshy DC also provide a stable 12v output?

[@Everlanders]

It does not.

[@rayherriott6517]

Why waste all that energy - just use an inverter to run the Starlink from 12VDC.

[@Everlanders]

You missed the point entirely... The 12v to 120v inverter and Starlink used 60watts, the straight DC uses 28watts.

[@heltontinhosouza]

Hello. Pin 6 of my j5 connector referring to the 48v input came out of the board. Can you tell me if it is possible to make a jumper at another point on the board?

[@Everlanders]

6 and 8 are both connected together on the Board. photos.app.goo.gl/RcUDxVdWvVvHKsyB6

[@12gauge5056083]

Starlink is now going to enforce the return to home base after roaming for two months. Well it's happening in South Africa . Not sure if it will be enforced world wide.

[@Everlanders]

I'll believe it when I see it.

[@ceesvandenberge5611]

Nice instruction and guidance. A question what is the total DC wattage consumed on average when Starlink is connected?

[@Everlanders]

56 watts on an AC inverter with AC power Adapter, 28 watts when using a DC-DC converter (averaged over 24 hours)

[@zeferrum]

Would you share what exact P/N your Starlink router is? There appears to be at least two hardware revisions of the gen2 router with different Ethernet SICs. The older version uses Marvell 88E1512, and the newer is EconNet EN8801. Your PCB appears to be using the EcoNet SIC

[@grandsoleil56]

Could you gut the 110v gubbons out and stealth the dc equipment inside

[@Everlanders]

Yes

[@tubeyerself2]

Can those starlink routers be hardwired to the computer and have the wireless turned off?

[@Everlanders]

Yup, that's one of the reasons I did it.

[@mikegolibart3115]

If the original ac power supply is 57 volts output, why not connect the dc to dc 57 volt converter to the same power input on the router. The router would no longer need to be opened. Is this correct or am I missing something here.

[@Everlanders]

48 volts... It didn't work...

[@martincloete5401]

@everlanders I'm wondering if you have checked the power draw when running with this hack. Will the dish connect with 48V 2.6A since my ecoflow inverter only outputs 126W or 12.6V 10A.

[@martincloete5401]

I see in some of your earlier replies you mention 130W during the startup sequence. So close... I'm trying to avoid adding a battery with higher Amp rating into the sequence.

[@Everlanders]

Yup, 130 to boot, 30 during operation.

[@dougle03]

I would add that those variable output boards should be dialled in to their output voltage with a load connected. I've had them fly wildly if set without a load attached.

[@Everlanders]

Thankfully mine is still at 12.0 with the (very small) load attached.

[@lezbriddon]

beware the twisty knob on the little dc/dc converters often has the twisty adjuster working backwards so turning it down makes the voltage go up!

[@Everlanders]

This is why it is tested before connected.

[@lezbriddon]

@@Everlanders yeah just saying as it can catch some people out.

[@DIY12-24v]

It's not as efficient but can we supply 110vdc to the AC input? A simple 12vdc to 110vdc would increase efficiency and lot more simple

[@Everlanders]

I'd be happy to review the video where you show this successfully working...

[@DIY12-24v]

@@Everlanders you appear to know your way around circuits. Was wondering when you had it open that you could tell if it could take DC or not

[@westmc45]

Was wondering if you can take the whole thing apart and install it in the same area as the dish and do away completely with the router case.Just make he case for the dish a little larger to take the space. I am currently making a mold to use fiberglass and gel coat for my dish as I need this on my catamaran I live on. I did find the video useful and will watch the others

[@Everlanders]

I can... But I have no interest in such things as I needed several Gigabit RJ45's for high bandwidth appliances.

[@justtruckinaround273]

This is a great idea as I live in my caravan, the 12v option seems great, I think I'll be using the LM2596 and the silver 12-48v converter, should work ok? Cheers, Paul

[@3TQVK]

Why wouldn't you just use a 300w Sinusoidal Inverter 12V in 230V out Problem solved. That's how we Aussies think

[@Everlanders]

Because it uses twice the power...

[@vocipico]

you aussies think easy, but not clever

[@WheresTheFun]

Can't find d the dishy dc converter

[@Everlanders]

From the description: 🛰️Get your Starlink Dishy DC and use the promo code "Everlanders" for 10% off: boondocker.io/products/dishy-rv-power-supply?discount=everlanders&rfsn=7157873.4b72b38&subid=2

[@alai5359]

谢谢你，有中文

[@Everlanders]

不客气。我很高兴它有所帮助。

[@steps4malawi52]

If I did this it’s just to avoid using inverters on my solar. Any idea how many watts this would save going dc to dc

[@Everlanders]

28 watts on DC-DC vs 59 watts on the inverter

[@benkavoosi]

thank you! i used jb waterweld to stick the corners of the high power 48v converter to the back of the router, while the tiny lm2596 was added to the 12v line hidden inside the router's case. everything's working great inlcuding the flat mounted gen2 dish! what would be nice is a custom casing that uses the existing router's glass so we wont need any vent holes (heat passes through glass), while being big enough to have all these customizations placed inside the box. again, thanks for the video guide, they help us a lot!

[@camperADK]

I dont think using a 12v to 48v step up will use less power than an inverter. Plus those things get hot. Love to know how that turned out.

[@Everlanders]

As shown in the video, it uses 28w as compared to 56w averaged over 24 hours.

[@ByronWatts]

Europe is not the only 220/230 volt space. You neglected more than half of the world 😮 don't forget us

[@RakeshShah-cx7ep]

India sealing machine

[@JCMercyGrace]

We just found you today, the utoobs even suggested you to my husband in that sidebar suggestions column. So, we're subscribed and the all videos bell is selected. I love the very nicely subtitled commentary to help us understand better; us boomers did something to our hearing back in the day. So, thank you, I do appreciate them. Just wanted to let you know. And I'm going to share your channel to our sons in hope they don't think their old, fuddy-duddy parents are sharing another thing like we all did back in the day with LOL-Cats. Thanks for being a brainiack, and for sharing your genius with all of us out here.

[@capovillas-pu2pag]

Hi tks for your videos. I did exactly as you did, however when turning on the router it starts, I can connect to the WiFi and in the Starlink app the antenna shows as initializing or disconnected. The voltage I'm putting in is correct and the connection to the router is also correct because I tested the 48v output voltage when plugged in. any tips?

[@Everlanders]

Your power supply is Browning out as it's not of sufficient capacity.

[@capovillas-pu2pag]

@@Everlanders I'm testing with a 100a battery and a DGXBY 12to48V with 6A output, the antenna still doesn't start

[@Ashessdoom]

Thank you sir for this videos, clear explaination and very professional. I learned so much from you. God bless you always to your journey.

[@SimoneAssisFuiComCristo]

Obrigada!! Continue com as legendas sim !! I'm from Brazil !!

[@JohnSmith-oh9iv]

Why the hell doesn't Starlink come with a 12V connection out of the box??????? WTF.

[@Everlanders]

Because a very small percentage of the users need it.

[@JohnSmith-oh9iv]

Well, everyone who travels remotely usually has 12V but not all have 110/240V. The easiest thing is to add a 12V input into the housing. Very strange.

[@Everlanders]

12 volts is easy, 48 not so much.

[@imcmcguiness5110]

Can you recommend a power supply for the ts101. I bought one on your recommendation in the vid. It only came with a usb c.. help.. Take care

[@Everlanders]

Ummm I recommend not getting the TS101, because it's USB C...

[@imcmcguiness5110]

@Everlanders ahhh crikey!!! Hahah what one do you recommend 🤣 😂

[@chrishynes1503]

Could I connect the 12v side of the 12 to 48 step up to a cigarette connector?

[@Everlanders]

Yes

[@JOFRESANCHEZ-u7n]

I performed the same procedure with another type of elevator and it worked very well, but from one moment to the next, the modem does send the Wi-Fi signal, but the antenna appears disconnected, check the voltage directly on the modem and the power arrives fine, which can Maybe, has the same thing happened to anyone? Greetings from Colombia, thank you very much if anyone can help me,

[@Everlanders]

This is called a Brownout and it's because the voltage booster you selected is not enough for the task.

[@JOFRESANCHEZ-u7n]

@@Everlanders Thank you very much for taking the time and giving me an answer, I imagined something like this, I'm new to this...thank you very much again.

[@jc_from_tx9229]

Thanks for the video! I converted my router to 12v using your video. Only change was I installed the 12v regulator inside the top of the router in the open space above the antenna. No It didn’t change wireless range best I can tell. And the only Issue I had is dishy intermittently has current spikes when booting up. You have to provide enough power to get thru these or it just reboots. I had to install the router near my battery bank in my motorhome, I tried several existing circuits but none could keep the voltage high enough to get thru the spikes but they are all small gauge wires and fairly long. Its great not having to run inverter for internet anymore.

[@AlexMantach]

дякую за саби!

[@waldlager]

Hallo, Ja. Es Lohn sich. Vielen Dank dafür. Lieben Gruß

[@ghosttoo7467]

Hi every body somebody can help me with this i dont know what system should i get MOBILE or HOME the hardware is the same but the plan is $30 different the price is an issue THX

[@Everlanders]

The hardware is the same... Home can only be used in a fixed location.

[@ghosttoo7467]

But can be remove and attach to my camper by the way the $30 is not an issue THANK YOU

[@Everlanders]

As long as your camper doesn't move, then the Residential service will work fine.

[@Ashessdoom]

Good day sir i follow your tuturial,and it did power up the router, but the dish did not still offline,. Is it the capacity of my 48v module? Coz its 2amp, it did not power up the dish. Still offline,. What capacity of 48v module must i used? Or is it the battery problem? Or is it your demonstratrion the dish motor been cut off? I like to hear your answer coz i need to convert my starlink to 12v operation. Ty sir, i hope for the feedback

[@Everlanders]

2 amps is far too small... you need at least 130 Watts during the boot sequence. The correct DC-DC converter is still linked in the description.

[@Ashessdoom]

@@Everlanders so, if I buy a module of 48v with 5amp, it really can solve the problem? Please sir give an advice thank you verry much for your reply i really appreciate it. God bless you more

[@Ashessdoom]

@@Everlanders is it ok that i will going to use 48v/5amp? Than to a 48v/3amp like in your discription? Coz, thats the module that are available in our country. Is it ok?

[@MMOverlandAdventures]

Who cut the cheese? Brilliant! Merry Christmas!

[@Grey-Troll]

so I gotto ask... why use that POS anyway?? Why not just do the POE injector mod to the cable and get a better (more efficient openWRT supported etc.) and throw that one in the garbage where it belongs?

[@Everlanders]

So I gotto tell you... You missed part one and two... kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJ2of6B3ntCGh7M

[@Grey-Troll]

@@Everlanders Nope, nothing there about making this into a useful, configurable router... :) Hate to tell you, but I think you missed adding a segment!

[@Everlanders]

@ajbutch123 ok... If you need me to spoon feed you every segment... Here you go. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYO2n4eDp7qDqLM

[@YasskyllGarcia]

It’s no the same if you buy an inverter ???

[@Everlanders]

Of course, at twice the power consumption.

[@dand3d173]

Legend only 3 wires just got my dishy duali but in spain at the moment avoiding the storms in the UK so will be doing this mod also 😂

[@necubredatikazem]

Great job,many thanks for great videos !!

[@paolopetrozzi2213]

Hi, thanks

[@bruceboyles1895]

What is the difference between ground & earth?

[@Everlanders]

byjus.com/physics/difference-between-earthing-and-grounding

[@tommyp1124]

Some watt measurements would be nice.

[@Everlanders]

28 watts, as shown in the video

[@garyreed354]

What a bout the the heating part will that still work and how many amps will it take ?

[@Everlanders]

Don't care.

[@muhammadazeem1346]

so that ethernet solution was complicated and this is easy?

[@Everlanders]

No, this is harder, but cheaper... The Dishy DC power supply is definitely the better option.

[@Moist_yet_Crispy]

Yes! Please do the 3D printed option you mentioned at the end! That would be the bees knees in the cats panjammamas (3

[@SAMSUNGTABLET-uh9is]

Gracias por los subtítulos en español.

[@Everlanders]

Con mucho gusto! 🙏

[@kao12561]

@everlanders thank you so much this great sharing. One question. Is it possible to not remove motor from the dishy but still connect it to 12v power suply and expect same good quality internet connection?

[@Everlanders]

Sure

[@kao12561]

@@Everlanders great. thank you. I have very brand new German Caravan. It has off grid solar and battery. The caravan has its own 12v system. Do you think I still need that (converter 12v and 48v) My plan is I will do the first approach you did. get those pins out of the router and then connect them to caravan 12V system. I myself like originality 🙂 thank you 🙏🏼

[@Everlanders]

As I mentioned in the video, your 12 volt system will fluctuate between 10 5 and 14.4. Not stable enough.

[@borriskoszlat7408]

You reverse inject Voltage to the Power Regulator of the Router... Very Bad Idea... it can damage all! Only Power the Wifi Board not the Power Supply of the router!!!

[@Everlanders]

Yet thanks to the magic of diodes, years later it's still working fine... 🤷‍♂️

[@gauntletwielder6306]

PoE and Dishy DC make sense. Any other method is for masochists.

[@LZ1PBC]

Another great video!!! Thank you very much.

[@simplyjjay]

Question: for 12vdc, I’m using lithium battery and puts out 12.8- 14.3 vdc. Do I need to use a 12vdc regulator or the router can handle over 12vdc?

[@Everlanders]

9:00

[@johnarizona3820]

@ 16:30 "actually I just ripped the circuit off" dude, I lost it hahaha. I can't count how many times I've done something like that. Salute!

[@RuneEriksson]

With the LED only coming on while using 230/110V in the first method, it could be used to disconnect the 12V supply via a relay to protect the installation. Another 12V supply LED could be added for clarity as well.

[@Everlanders]

Yup 👍

[@corkoster3091]

Thanks a lot, really useful information. Should have my dish V2 in a week and will apply your hacks and disconnect the motors. Yeust both mods will reduce power consumption by maybe 25%.

[@Everlanders]

No, our power consumption went from 56w to 28w, averaged over 24 hours.

[@ericfort940]

is this 48V or -48V as is common in telecom?

[@Everlanders]

48

[@CAMINANTE22100]

Excelente demostración, y el subtitulado en español muy bueno 👍🏼👍🏼

[@Everlanders]

Gracias ¡Parece que todo ese esfuerzo está dando sus frutos!

[@Sylvan_dB]

Might consider telling those folks that complained about the complexity of the RJ-45 and etc, "that is the simple solution."

[@Everlanders]

Very simple 🤣🤣🤣

[@kennygsr60]

Can it be powered using an inverter?

[@Everlanders]

Yes

[@untetherednomad6393]

Ok, what is the bottom line...how many watts/amps does the system take once the SL system is settled?

[@Everlanders]

28 watts

[@untetherednomad6393]

​@@Everlanders thanks for the info.

[@KenMrKLC]

I want to do this. What is a "volt"?

[@Everlanders]

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volt

[@lonnymoore2622]

i would go with a 3d printed enclosure and keep the glass as well as set up resistors or a small step down transistor or something to let the led work to show you have power .

[@diegosolar678]

@Everlanders, thank you so much for the video, I'm building an off-grid setup and bought everything needed to complete the installation with only the Starlink kit itself adding the dishy DC adapter, my only doubt is if it is possible to do a Starlink router setup where I delete the aluminum shields on it, also I'm looking into building the setup using the starmount housing where the only wire to connect is the power cord and everything is enclosed in the housing.

[@Everlanders]

Sure, it's very possible... But I don't do free customer service for Starmount... Ask them.

[@keeganbuilds]

just looking for a bit of clarity here. I notice that your 12/24v to 12v regulated controller only has 3 wires on it. Did you snip the yellow(+) off? Can you explain this method?

[@Everlanders]

No, it has 4 wires, 2 in 2 out.

[@keeganbuilds]

for reference I see you talked about the shared common ground, but it appears to be the positive that was snipped on the output?

[@keeganbuilds]

@@Everlanders @14:03 was what I was referencing.

[@Everlanders]

What you're seeing on the right side of that converter is a black jacketed cable that has two output wires inside. You can see them split apart near the Wago connectors right in the middle of the image.

[@keeganbuilds]

@@Everlanders sneaky sneaky! Thanks for clarifying! Ive used these things for years and never seen one like that.