EVERY Climbing Shoe In The Olympic Games | Tokyo 2020

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Beor Ong

Beor Ong

Күн бұрын

Wondering what shoe the athletes used for each event? In this video I went over what I could find on each of the athletes to find who was wearing what for Speed Climbing, Bouldering, and Lead Climbing just for a bit of fun.
Any corrections I find I'll update here:
Jakob actually changes his solutions out for futuras in the middle of B1 during bouldering
00:00 Intro
00:54 Speed
03:17 Bouldering and Lead
Shoe Links:
Scarpa Arpia
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Drago
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Instinct VSR
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Force V
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Chimera
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Veloce
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Madrock Remora
madrock.com/products/remora-t...
Madrock Drone
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Mad Rock Sharks
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Tenaya Iati
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Tenaya Mundaka
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Tenaya Mastia
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Evolv Rave
www.evolvsports.com/int/rave-...
Evolv Shamans
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Unparallel Duel
www.unparallelsports.com/prod...
Unparallel Flagship
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Cobra
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La Sportiva Solutions
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Cobra 4.99
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Solution Comp
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Theory
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva solution comp womens
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La Sportiva Theory Womens
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La Sportiva Solution Womens
shop.epictv.com/en/solution-w...
La sportiva Skwama Womens
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
5.10 Hiangle Women Pro Tokyo Edition/ LV
www.adidas.com/us/five-ten-hi...
5.10 Aleonz
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
5.10 Shauna Niad
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Ocun Nitro
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Wild Climb Bat
www.wildclimb.it/en/prodotto/...
Wild Climb Pantera
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Madrock Redline
madrock.com/products/redline-...
Scarpa Furia S
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Python
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...

Пікірлер: 173
@richardbradley1532
@richardbradley1532 2 жыл бұрын
The only thing I can guarantee is that all the shoes used are better at climbing than me
@AmirNickname
@AmirNickname 2 жыл бұрын
Woah, that must've taken quite some work! Strangely fascinating to see all those different shoes in action :)
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
I didnt realize there would be so much work with so many shoes haha... I thought there would be like 6-7 shoes that everyone was using but everyone just has a diff preference
@milesfranklin9864
@milesfranklin9864 2 жыл бұрын
Well done! I think a bar chart would be a good way to summarize the data
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Ahh that would have been a good idea to show number of people using the same shoe. Thanks for the suggestion
@vitaliyrostov3204
@vitaliyrostov3204 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing work man, must have taken a colossal effort to compile this list
@lanneevanessen
@lanneevanessen 2 жыл бұрын
Great to see that you put all this effort into making this video! Really enjoyed it. Love your content
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Wow thanks man...as generic as it might seem im really thankful for the kind words...its really encouraging to make more and more videos
@erkolgames7368
@erkolgames7368 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing research, quite interesting to see the differences
@philaeew4866
@philaeew4866 2 жыл бұрын
Very well-reaearched and presented! That definitely deserves a sub and a look at your other climbing content!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
wow appreciate it dude!, im definitely priming my channel more as a review channel for gear (cause I have an unhealthy obsession with buying stuff haha) but definitely just taking as it comes and letting myself be creative and just making content that the community as a whole are after so I appreciate the support
@thomascee
@thomascee 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing video! Man that took a lot of work! Extremely interesting thank you so much👌🏽
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Appreciate it, i think for all the olympics vids i watched the events a total of like 8x....no sleep but it was fun to make
@SniperMan5858
@SniperMan5858 2 жыл бұрын
Great vid man! Very well put together and broken down extremely well 👏
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Appreciate it
@jjimena263
@jjimena263 2 жыл бұрын
Awesome video man! Hoping to see more content from you in the future!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks man, definitely will try to keep the content coming! The more support the more oppprtunities and possibilities for different videos!
@jameschia
@jameschia 2 жыл бұрын
Wow! Amazing research you put in to this, don't know how you did it! Would have been great to have seen a visual diagram of all the athletes and what shoes they choose for what event and the possible reasons why they chose it - just to see it in totality for those visual learners like myself out there ;) Apart from that, amazing work! Keep it up!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
deffs more personal preference Id say for most climbers, but not gonna deny those brand sponsorships make a diff as well lol
@youngzheng2678
@youngzheng2678 2 жыл бұрын
This is super awesome, Thank you!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks dude, hopefully I'll get a chance to review all of them in the future too haha
@luffyfan6
@luffyfan6 2 жыл бұрын
Janja's shoe is custom too, I think (if ever so slightly). It appears not to have a split outsole. Seems like all the 5.10 athletes have to customize their shoe one way or another
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Dont you wish us normies had that option =( would love A slight adjustment on some of my shoes
@kylenakamura4353
@kylenakamura4353 2 жыл бұрын
That's some pretty bad marketing for 5.10 haha
@eddiefowke
@eddiefowke 2 жыл бұрын
Quite a few pro climbers are climbing in custom shoes. If the brand has the resources to optimize your footwear you're going to take it to ensure the perfect blend of fit and support you're after.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@eddiefowke 100%... like every shoe Ive had are in that realm of "if only it did this it would be perfect" so heres hoping one day I get famous enough to warrant a pair of customs haha
@johannessporer
@johannessporer 2 жыл бұрын
I think Janja's Hiangles are more or less the old Hiangles with the new colors
@nurserey2349
@nurserey2349 2 жыл бұрын
Damn nice research dude!!! Love the insight!!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
thank you thank you, interesting to see how many variations there were for sure
@stevehatcher7700
@stevehatcher7700 2 жыл бұрын
Slip on Cobra's were my bouldering shoe of choice 20 years ago. Nice to see they're still around and being used at top level climbing.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Curious about the heel, any slippage back in the day for harder heel hooks?
@benschuster9792
@benschuster9792 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng not if you size them 4-5 EU sizes down from your street size ;)
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@benschuster9792 haha well that sounds like an absolute blast
@stevehatcher7700
@stevehatcher7700 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng I sized down 2.5 US sizes. Incredible edging, smearing and toe pointing. Heel hooking was decent.
@balls7990
@balls7990 2 жыл бұрын
Great work! Love it
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
appreciate the love !
@youngminpark3665
@youngminpark3665 2 жыл бұрын
Interesting video! Thank you!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching =) hopefully ill get a chance to review all these shoes in the future
@coincrazy3563
@coincrazy3563 2 жыл бұрын
Subbed just because your dedication. Nice 👍
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
next vid took me a while as well... finally finished watching the Olympic climbing for the 4th time
@cincydooley
@cincydooley 2 жыл бұрын
Earned a sub. Great work.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
what a legend
@BryceU
@BryceU 2 жыл бұрын
Nice summary. Quick and dialed.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Like climbing should be haha thanks for watching dude
@whelmking6497
@whelmking6497 2 жыл бұрын
Interesting vid. Thanks for the info.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
you are very welcome my dude
@MgzNatura
@MgzNatura 2 жыл бұрын
Nice job bro!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
appreciate it
@chooseacareer
@chooseacareer 2 жыл бұрын
awesome work
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
haha thanks man
@magpiemag
@magpiemag 2 жыл бұрын
This is awesome :)
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
appreciate the love man
@teropiro1962
@teropiro1962 2 жыл бұрын
López also used red Skwamas for the first boulder of the final. :)
@conserve_climber
@conserve_climber 2 жыл бұрын
I like your content….great job
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
I appreciate it my man!
@joshyaash
@joshyaash 2 жыл бұрын
Really surprised to see the Arpia being used during speed. I wore them for a few months of bouldering and they are super comfy, but the toes blew out pretty fast. From what I understand, speed climbing is pretty hard on the tops of the toes due to lots of dragging along the wall.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Id say you would want really light shoes, but at the same time something that is relatively stif to give you a nice push to work with, its why the cobra 4.99 models have removed unneccessary rubber on the heel cause its 100% designed for speed, but i guess its just one of those -- climb with what you know and are comfortable with situations
@joshyaash
@joshyaash 2 жыл бұрын
@@robbieallerhand lol fair enough
@dakiblabla
@dakiblabla 2 жыл бұрын
I disagree that Alberto's medal was well deserved, it was anything but. It was a pure consequence of luck in 1-1 pairings in speed, which propelled him to win the speed round whilst having the 5th speed time. It was an outlier in the probability of outcomes, due to a decision to leave Bassa's spot empty, which then wreaked havoc in the pairing outcomes vs times correlation. Interestingly, if the finals score is corrected to reflect speed times instead of pairing outcomes, Alberto would score last. He had 5th time in speed, was dead last in bouldering, and 4th in lead. If that's a gold medal performance, I'm Greta Garbo. With the correction, the medals would have been : gold Nathaniel, silver Tomoa and bronze Jakob (first in bouldering, speed and lead respectively). Nathaniel crushed in fact : he was first in bouldering and had second time in speed. That was a gold medal performance. Also, regarding the shoes, there was an instance where Ondra changed one shoe on a slab, that would have been interesting to include, but I'm not sure that the footage allows to identify which one it was.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Regarding lopez more a common courtesy to just say well done haha, i do agree that the format definitely fucked with ppl who probably should have earned that win with a better performance so fair call, regarding the change over yeah i didnt see what it was, i know alberto changed to skwamas at some point too
@robertrider9845
@robertrider9845 2 жыл бұрын
Yea but Alberto won fair and square
@juancamilo87
@juancamilo87 2 жыл бұрын
Awesome!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
thanks you
@kair7406
@kair7406 2 жыл бұрын
If I remember correctly, Ondra switched out his shoes during one of the boulder problems. Would be interesting to look at that switch in detail
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
The focus of the camera was so much on duffy i think at that point or cosser annoyingly, since its ondra though i would assume hed try his solutions as his change out shoe if it wasnt the theorys
@bionickchief
@bionickchief Жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng pretty sure he realised theories suck and switched to good old solutions
@allen.9
@allen.9 11 ай бұрын
Ondra switches when there is more smearing or big volumes. He likes a bigger shoe for them since there is more rubber to grip. He talked about it in some older video I believe.
@Inigo_0
@Inigo_0 Жыл бұрын
awesoooooome
@fredanada
@fredanada 2 жыл бұрын
nice videos! came here to say i am tired of the old companies marketing a separate ‘womens’ and ‘mens’ shoe (and in pretty gendered colorways) when climbers only care about fit and especially so for the elite athletes. that’s one thing i like about unparallel. they label their shoes regular or low volume-just make sense for different foot types. same with ocun having diagrams for different types of toes. so much more practical.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Here here....my first pair of shoes were "womens" cause i have pretty small feet...it really threw me off as a first buyer but i trusted the shop owner who was reccomending them to me...and i see this with a lot of new climbers, choosing look over feel...so i 100% agree and support this comment
@danchen6783
@danchen6783 2 жыл бұрын
Maybe the shoe companies don’t actually follow actual anatomical data. But women don’t just have the same shape foot as men, just smaller. They actually have anatomically different shaped feet controlling for sizing. If shoe companies are doing their job right, there should be different women’s and men’s shoes customized to each gender’s different bell curves of foot shaping. It’s a false narrative of gender equality to say it should just be the same.
@humanimal5527
@humanimal5527 2 жыл бұрын
@@danchen6783 but when a shoe fits a dudes foot better and is labeled a "woman's" shoe, it throws him off. Low volume phrasing achieves a more accurate description of the difference of the shoe. There are plenty of men with narrow feet. Several of my climbing buddies wear women's model shoes and wish they were offered in less feminine colors.
@el_mal_de_ojo
@el_mal_de_ojo Жыл бұрын
@@danchen6783 you're legitimately and demonstrably wrong. The basic fact that there's men with "feminine feet" and women with "manly feet" blows your whole comment out of the water and really pushes for the nomenclature change to favour the volume specificity, while simultaneously pointing out the uselessness of those descriptors.
@danchen6783
@danchen6783 Жыл бұрын
@@el_mal_de_ojo I can find a woman with a beard and a man with a woman's hip ratio. This isn't any sort of sexism, ON AVERAGE, women's feet and men's feet fall on different bell curves on about a dozen different measurements in their feet, controlling for weight and height. Anatomically, women and men are just different. There's no social judgment here. It's relatively obvious in areas like breasts and hips, but there are other body parts where the norms are different - feet being one of them. Now you can find exceptions to everything, but if you are designing non-custom footwear you need to hit the middle of the bell curve. Arch height/volume is only one difference. Please chat with a podiatrist.
@paedae16
@paedae16 2 жыл бұрын
Miho's shoes are custom made tenaya oasi clones with 5.10 branding, not aleons or hiangles.
@stemapoweredcom5536
@stemapoweredcom5536 2 жыл бұрын
imagine how expensive custom shoes are I can't even
@martinmrazek6146
@martinmrazek6146 Жыл бұрын
Aw, nice to see sameone took Ocún.
@dillonmrose
@dillonmrose 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks bro. I’ve been repping Skwamas for a while. Maybe it’s time for a change.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Hey akiyo uses the skwamas and she got podium so I wouldn't write em off... plus I LOVE my skwamas probably the best fitting shoe I've ever owned (they're the first pair Ive actually worn through to needing a resole)
@teropiro1962
@teropiro1962 2 жыл бұрын
Alberto Lopez used red Skwamas for the first boulder in the final also!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@teropiro1962 i did see that on my 4th watch haha ill add it into my updates in the description
@raulhuizar
@raulhuizar 2 жыл бұрын
That voice over for Adam Ondra hahah
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Hahah very good catch...i may or may not have said czechoslovakia and needed to dub over it hahaha
@TheWolfsLunch
@TheWolfsLunch 2 жыл бұрын
Interesting hearing of people owning so many pairs of shoes, I can't really fathom it. Got two different sized feet so I have to buy two pairs to get one pair, so I've just erred on the side of caution and got some really basic Butora Senegis. Awesome watching climbing actually being at the Olympics though.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
for sure dude. i mean you saw a few people change diff shoes just in bouldering alone, ondra did it twice lol
@tonicbel1249
@tonicbel1249 2 жыл бұрын
i know that EB-climbing are making shoes espacially for people who have 2 different sized feet :)
@wileecoyoti
@wileecoyoti 8 ай бұрын
I'm late to this party but did Sean McColl really use scarpa force v?? I like the shoes (good mix of edgy rubber but a flatter profile that works ok in a lot of different things) but usually they're considered everyday chill shoes and not serious competition items. That's awesome if true!
@yts1007
@yts1007 2 жыл бұрын
I found laura's way of putting on climbing shoes very interesting. She ended her race note circling her whole shoes way down to midsole.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
yeah it seems its to replicate the powerband system of other shoe brands. Deffs interesting to see
@two_feet_in5229
@two_feet_in5229 2 жыл бұрын
Nice to see the Chimera’s represented!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
haha opinions on the shoe?
@kaitsu1984
@kaitsu1984 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng It is fantastic! Stiff but not too stiff. Edges well but still smears like a soft slipper. Laces are usually a problem for bouldering since you have to take shoes off, but I just leave mine untied for most of the session. I only lace up for the hard stuff.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@kaitsu1984 i actually barely ever take my shoes off during a sesh haha interesting though, might have to check them out.. might make a good lead shoe specifically
@kaitsu1984
@kaitsu1984 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng Do it. It works really well outside too :)
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@kaitsu1984 weighing up my options for sure, katanas, tc pros, and boostic are all in my crosshair
@kuumek
@kuumek 2 жыл бұрын
Actualy Miho uses custom version of dragons
@zachmunro4407
@zachmunro4407 2 жыл бұрын
Surprised more people aren't using Evolv shoes, they are fantastic
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
My fave shoes atm are my phantoms so +1 to this comment lol
@Maw0822
@Maw0822 2 жыл бұрын
Also surprised Duffy was using Shamans. I thought those were pretty stiff
@kaijanzen2185
@kaijanzen2185 2 жыл бұрын
nice
@Eliv537
@Eliv537 2 жыл бұрын
Does Janja us the 5.10 pro Tokyo mens or womens
@Soullesss666
@Soullesss666 2 жыл бұрын
Did anybody notice how Rogora's lacing up her shoes? =)
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
haha the under the sole thing? my brother was saying its probably to mimic what evolve did with the oracl with a wire running underneath to give more tension around the heel.
@zacharylaschober
@zacharylaschober 2 жыл бұрын
She has been doing that with the wildclimb pantera for years. To my knowledge, this is because wildclimb does not have a well tensioned rand as has become far more industry standard since the days of the P3 system from La Sportiva to minimize shoes flattening out, and this helps support the downcamber of the shoe once well broken in.
@Pietervanloon1996
@Pietervanloon1996 2 жыл бұрын
Not sure, but judging from the toe rubber I'd say Shauna Coxsey was wearing the Anasazi Pro's, not niads
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
oh I think you might be right here... I think I got caught off with the graphic I found online but since she helped design the anasazi's high chance she'd be using it
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Apparantly the niads are a replacement for the anasazi so still should be right haha
@zebediahmartin9559
@zebediahmartin9559 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng If you looked it up Shauna helped develop the Anasazi Pro's so it makes sense.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@zebediahmartin9559 yeah apparantly there was some controversy with the name "anasazi" that's why they rebranded it as the niad so more or less the same shoe (maybe with a tweak somewhere in there)
@sethrich5998
@sethrich5998 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng The fit between Anasazi and NIAD is way different. Similar type of shoe, but Adidas completely changed the fit. If Anasazis fit well I doubt the NIADs would, even though it’s supposed to be the replacement.
@hydra66
@hydra66 2 жыл бұрын
La Sportiva seems to have got their sponsorships right
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Haha well five ten took 2 medals in womens and both gold and silver
@CJski
@CJski 2 жыл бұрын
I didn't know sean mccoll had a climbing shoe channel
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
hahaha its the hair isnt it?
@CJski
@CJski 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng haha bingo!
@frenchblacksmithedits280
@frenchblacksmithedits280 2 жыл бұрын
I wonder if sometimes on slippery volume footholds it would be better to just go barefoot. I truly believe it could stick more than the hard rubber of those climbing shoes.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
theres a clip of i think its magnus who does the co-ordination part of a climb with shoes and for the dual tex he takes his shoe off so that he can get up on it, so I would say yes but at the same time I think its not allowed in comps lol
@zacharylaschober
@zacharylaschober 2 жыл бұрын
Sean mccoll has several videos showing this, but climbing shoes are required.
@brevinbarnes1325
@brevinbarnes1325 2 жыл бұрын
Team Tenaya for the win!!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
I do admit i have yet to try tenaya, atm evolv phantoms are my choice of weapon
@wangbruce643
@wangbruce643 2 жыл бұрын
I felt like that I saw madrock drone but I didn't see one in your video?
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
04:33 my man =]
@alexhinojosa7136
@alexhinojosa7136 2 жыл бұрын
Feeling a lil disheartened about buying mastia's now
@donalddarko3676
@donalddarko3676 2 жыл бұрын
Best intermediate indoor shoe for wide foot. Looking for easy entry, adjustment of opening and comfort. No slippers.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
The madrock range are worth a look at, specifically drones or sharks but deffs test to see if it fits your foot, evolv shamans are my next to buy but those are at the upper end, funnily enough even though im not the biggest fan, at the discount that black diamond shadows are selling for, those would be a solid option as well as the zones if you wanted to go cheaper. Otherwise were moving into evolv geshido territory (i have zero experience in), or the anasazi pros would be a good choice too.
@nicolewong3687
@nicolewong3687 2 жыл бұрын
Try the Ocun Jett QC if you can find them! They fit great on my wider feet and are not too aggressive.
@johnshipley1389
@johnshipley1389 Жыл бұрын
Tenaya Oasi
@wulf67
@wulf67 2 жыл бұрын
Those Evolv Raves look like my granny's bedroom shoes.
@ReaperUnreal
@ReaperUnreal 2 жыл бұрын
Not a single Booster or Boostic, very interesting!
@zacharylaschober
@zacharylaschober 2 жыл бұрын
Boostics are not at all competition oriented, full pad of xs edge with full length midsole, though one of my favorite shoes, and the Boosters are just specific too precise placements with a well formed toebox for recessed points and pockets. Was surprised Coleman used the Instinct rather than the Chimera, but is likelier a better choice than the new boosts.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Im intending on buying a pair for review and more specifically outdoor climbing on micro edges where its value is probably gonna be more orientated towards. Would be super hard to use these for competitions other than in rare occasions since so many comp climbs have some degree of requiring some foot dexterity
@oritirosh1319
@oritirosh1319 2 жыл бұрын
Just asking cause I'm not sure wasn't Israel in the climbing olimpics to?
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
not to my knowledge, you may have watched a qualifier with them -- for example Indonesia has a climbing team as well, they are actually some of the BEST when it comes to speed climbing as well... but they didn't make it to actual event cause of the combined format
@philipperobin6922
@philipperobin6922 2 жыл бұрын
Show me where is Español on a map
@nbka8rs
@nbka8rs 2 жыл бұрын
Nice. Better go buy some dragos
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
man I dunno whether I want to another pair of ultra soft shoes... I have the furia airs (review in the pipeline) and they're the softest you can go....super sensitive but a bit on the narrow end (something I think dragos would be better in for wide footed individuals) but I honestly I would size for comfort for the soft shoes and only use them for co-ordination type climbs
@nbka8rs
@nbka8rs 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng Sickkkk! good to know. i guess it would work for me as a shoe to fill a niche as I normally climb in solution comps?
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@nbka8rs the solution comps were intended to be on the softer end if im not mistaken, but dragos are still 100% softer haha, end of the day id say try em on and see if 1 they fit your foot and 2 whether you like em cause thats probably what matters most
@facundoahumada635
@facundoahumada635 2 жыл бұрын
of español
@josebenjumedarubio5666
@josebenjumedarubio5666 Жыл бұрын
Man Spain is called "España", and not "español", which means spanish
@conserve_climber
@conserve_climber 2 жыл бұрын
What did Janja use; the only one who counts 😁👍😂😂😂
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
5.10 hi angle pros (tokyo edition), I have a pair not tokyo edition but not gonna lie they fit like an absolute glove.... review in the works but its hard cause were under strict lockdown here in aus
@penguins0392
@penguins0392 Жыл бұрын
Now do EVERY Olympic Climbers feet 2020 ( @ o @ )
@BorisBidjanSaberi11
@BorisBidjanSaberi11 2 жыл бұрын
I'm going to safely guess Sportiva Genius' weren't being used
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Not a single sole sported them, though a correction i made im the description....jakob did change out to futuras during bouldering
@BorisBidjanSaberi11
@BorisBidjanSaberi11 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng great video, just finished it! Im about to buy another pair of Genius', my Skwama's have been to Mordor and back haha. I loved my old pair of Genius but some people really like the Futura. Thoughts?
@zacharylaschober
@zacharylaschober 2 жыл бұрын
@@BorisBidjanSaberi11 Geniuses are far better than Futuras in almost every manner, but by better I do mean drastically more aggressive, especially heel tension wise, plus more toe cap coverage. Because of this, volume smears are slightly harder, and the foot goes numb rather fast, thus over a long few days of climbing the incremental advantage of precision from a Genius is probably outweighed by having feeling in your toes. Also, try the Scarpa Chimera, same size as you wear the Genius. Far more adaptive midsole and better rubber coverage over the toes which doesn’t delaminate and is a softer compound than xs grip 2.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@BorisBidjanSaberi11 I havent had a chance to really look at the futuras so I would probably listen to zachary's advice, I personally don't really like my genius' cause its just painful haha, the sock is really comfortable but the sensitivity makes it hard to use for prolonged periods. but obviously if you loved the genius' I wouldn't stop you... all a matter of opinion, personal fit, and what you want out of the shoe at the end of the day. I really wanted a pair of futuras back in the day as well... but I opted for genius' as my "no edge" shoe
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@zacharylaschober hey dude thanks for chiming in, I don't have the experience on the futura end of the spectrum so glad someone could fill in the blanks =]
@isaaccarrera5679
@isaaccarrera5679 2 жыл бұрын
Español is a language bro, but cool vid
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Haha i knew it was gonna come up eventually..i knew i should have changed it
@Ethan-ke9og
@Ethan-ke9og 2 жыл бұрын
@1:13 am I tripping or does his lips not match up to what he's saying
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
I may have said czechslovakia and dubbed it to the correct country...but...who can really know, you know?
@Ethan-ke9og
@Ethan-ke9og 2 жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng ahahahha
@user-qq2zr3xt6f
@user-qq2zr3xt6f 2 жыл бұрын
miho ALEON VCS??????????WHERE
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
are you asking for a link for her custom aleons? cause I don't think they would be available, if your asking where she used em, it was her primary bouldering shoe... but again this is a lot of speculation since they didn't really focus on it and the shoe looks most similar to the aleon above anything else, the double strap is what makes it confusing as none of the shoes have it thus just assuming its custom
@peetiez
@peetiez 2 жыл бұрын
Looks like a 5.10 rip off of the Tenaya Oasi which she previously used prior to 5.10
@JoonLoong
@JoonLoong 2 жыл бұрын
​@@BeorOng the custom shoe that miho uses is a prototype according to one of her YT videos (kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZy0oH5qntV4bsU), around 1:18. It is very similar to the aleon in terms of design and that the pointy part of the shoe closer to the middle but has a flat profile as opposed to a downturned profile.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
@@JoonLoong what a legend, this is the first close up of the shoe Ive actually seen but yeah this is why it was so hard to pinpoint what her shoe was other than it looked like the aleon but with a double strap
@JoonLoong
@JoonLoong 2 жыл бұрын
Great effort on making this video. However, as a ocun fan, I gotta send you to this link (kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqbWZnp4qZZpec0) on how to pronounce the brand correctly XD
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
hahaha oh wow this is good! when I get to reviewing the Ocun stuff I can not embarass myself now haha thanks man!
@lilogden
@lilogden 2 жыл бұрын
"of Spanish" xD
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
Shh this is what happens when you have to watch the olympics over and over with no sleep haha
@felipe2fp
@felipe2fp 2 жыл бұрын
basically nobody uses a no-edge. I'm just a intermediate v5/5.11 climber, and love genius for example.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
The hiangles technically use no edge around the sides, similiar to theory, but yeah no one on genius'
@donovandownes5064
@donovandownes5064 2 жыл бұрын
" of español" lol
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
i know i know... I knew it before I said it as well but it just came out and I was like..."Ill roll with it" At least I dubbed ondras Czechoslovakia with the right one haha
@assaqwwq
@assaqwwq 2 жыл бұрын
You make a video about climbing shoes but you don't even write their names. Why bro, why?
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын
All in the description my dude
@kiefmanning7394
@kiefmanning7394 2 жыл бұрын
Soooo…is the channel pronounced “boring” ?
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