Every Table Saw User Should Know this!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

There are other ways to handle the problem and I wish I would have mentioned them in the video. Some people suggested making multiple light passes with the tablesaw. Others suggested making multiple cuts to increase the width of the kerf, but far and away the most favored way to handle this while still using a tablesaw is to drive a wedge into the kerf. However, a bandsaw is definitely the safest way to deal with tension in a board. With a bandsaw there is only about 1/2" of blade that the board can bind on. With my tablesaw there was over 8" of blade plus the riving knife in the board so there was that much more surface area that the board could bind on. Plus, you can't get kickback on a bandsaw.

[@richardlouden3178]

Alternatively, keeping the same edge of the board against the fence flip it end for end. Cut from the opposite end the cut should open instead of close. I share your disdain for plastic blade guards, but I never rip lumber without a riving knife

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Ripping from the opposite side is something that I hadn't thought of and I am eager to try it! I always keep the riving knife in my saw, just not the one that is attached to the plastic blade guard.

[@bodeine454]

Jack Bench Woodworking I recently got an older (60s I think) Delta 10" contractors table saw and it came with no guards or riving knife... I'd at least like to find a riving knife for it, any ideas where I might find one?

[@bodeine454]

Nate Bugbee Will do, thanks...

[@valdo345jr]

Can't get 'kick back' on a band saw. wanna bet? The minute you presume something can't happen, it does.

[@donalfredisaac]

I knew the ways people suggested and have sometimes used them, but did not know about using the band saw. Thank you Sir !

[@maikay1403]

Thank you and it is great tips. I am so scare of table saw, cause I don't know what I am doing and almost lost a finger. You and others are kinds enough to doing this kinds of video. Many thanks to all.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thank you so much!!

[@mikemcdonald5147]

anytime i have tension in my boards i put on a little barry white, turn the lights down low, pour a drink, and talk real nice to it and it loosens right up :)

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hahaha! I like your style!

[@TheDudeAbides-247]

Thank you for your input Mr. Cosby.

[@jamesnelson6884]

Hahaha, a year or so ago, i was cutting some walnut on a table saw and was fairly new to woodworking. I felt it bind up and try to push the wood back at me...so i just stepped to the side, let go, and watched my beautiful walnut fly across the shop. Luckily i wasn't hurt and the walnut wasn't damaged either. Made a very nice longboard rack out of it.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

That sounds really scary! I always try to stand to the side when ripping on the tablesaw. Glad you weren't hurt.

[@chadburke852]

Good advice. I've used the wedge and flip methods before too. Once had a board with so much tension that it sort of exploded, splitting in two once the cut reached a certain point. Just another freak thing to be ready for with a table saw.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

You said it, be ready! Thanks Chad!

[@MyGrowthRings]

You can add me to the bandsaw column. I've had 2 serious kickbacks in my life, and one of those could have killed someone. The saw launched a 8' length of 8/4 poplar about 30' and then through a drywall wall and through the back of a cabinet. Has someone been in the path they would have been a shish kabob. The other kickback tore a 19mm melemine panel from my hands and launched the blade guard and several of the carbide teeth up my right arm. 20 years later I still have the scars from that one. I'll never mess with a board like this on the tablesaw. First sign of pinching and I'll set that board aside and finish the job on the bandsaw. Great series of videos! Scott

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Scott, I'm glad that piece of poplar missed you!

[@HeathKnuckles_Tasty_Timber]

Excellent tip Charlie! Thank you for sharing!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Heath!

[@cheesegrater2018]

Band Saw : Oooooohhhh so now you want to use me?! Well - I ain't no sloppy seconds. Screw you! (Triggers some random internal fault disabling the motor)

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Something like that! :)

[@TheShackHome]

I'm old school. My 50+ year old Atlas table saws don't have any guards. It's what i learned on back in the early 70's. They came from my step father and were in the family cabinet shop so they have seen a lot of use. I totally agree on large, thick stock always band saw

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! I remember using an Atlas table saw when I was in Jr. High School.

[@Klingon-pp4fv]

My grandfather worked in a saw mill in Tuolumne California for several years when I was younger, when he brought home lumber to use for a project like the size you tried to cut what he did was use wood shims to prevent it from binding on the blade , something to keep in mind when you don't have a bandsaw , BUT don't insert them to close to the back of the blade it may shoot right back out and be more of a headache . Oh and encase there's any model rail roaders watching the saw mill was West Side Lumber .

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Good tip about the shims. In fact, I made a follow up video to address just that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@barryelitchfield]

About 15 years ago while I was the manager at a woodworking company that made custom doors, grand entries, custom molding, etc., we had an order to make a grand entry for a large home out of African Mahogany. That's the worst wood I have ever worked with because of the terrible grain pattern. Not only the planers and jointers tore out the grain, but even the saws tore out the grain where it had ribbon stripes of alternating grain direction throughout the lumber. I saw the same pattern in the piece you were ripping. We ended up getting close to the dimensions we needed with saws, jointers and players, and then used wide belt sanders to get to the finished dimensions. We slowed down the feed rate and increased the speed of the cutter head on the molding machines to eliminate as much of the grain tear out as we could. Then we sanded the grain tear out as best we could. If I never see another piece of African Mahogany it would be fine with me. It sounds like you have more to work with left over. Good luck with that! I remember that lumber being very wide and very long. They must be massive trees.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Barry! Several years ago, about the same time frame that you are talking about, I bought a few hundred feet of African mahogany. It looks great! Long, wide, and thick boards. I have been hesitant to use it because I view it as "special" and want to save it for the "right" project. Now I am not sure just how "special" it really is. Still, it is beautiful once the project is complete and someday I will use it up.

[@Martin-pb7ts]

As someone from Africa I don't know how tough it is to work but it is a beautiful wood. Mahogany tables and furniture are quite special.

[@rorygray2975]

Ya, well no fine! LOL!

[@RonaldDCass]

I learned a lot from my Dad (cabinet maker over 65 years ) then over 20 years my own shop. We used 10 inch Craftsman table saws. I have learned to ALWAYS assume the board will pinch. Always position out of line of blade and to the side from the board. Always expect to immediately need to raise the board out of the cut. You can raise the board just enough to allow the blade to cut most of the way through for a short distance while raising and lowering the board in a "juggling" Motion to keep the blade from binding. You can make second pass later, the uncut portion will usually prevent binding. If possible always use a riving knife same as blade thickness, set to be just below the teeth hight. Overhead blade guards can restrict or prevent this tactic. Always provide secure support for board past the blade and never finish the cut without a proper push stick. Often the board will bind in the last one or two feet. I have had boards explode from internal tension, but expecting it will prevent injuries. You can often anticipate tension problems when the grain is wild or if you have knots. Ideally band saw is the solution.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I agree 100% about the riving knife, push stick, and especially staying stand to the side of the board.

[@WireWeHere]

Ripping blade with tooth geometry to match what you're cutting. Thin kerf to decrease lost material as well as motor load. I just watched a few videos debating blade height without actually measuring anything. You have a good material to decide for yourself when blade height adjustment can be helpful. All the best, have fun.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Jim! I did a follow up video on this where I tested a few different methods on how to deal with this problem: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@ReaperWoodworks]

Excellent reminder. Good job Charlie.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Mike!

[@mattking3439]

So essentially you're saying, every table saw owner should buy a bandsaw?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Sorry Matt, I did leave some information out of that video but I addressed it in this follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@mattking3439]

***** just giving you a hard time. Keep up the good work!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hahaha, Thanks!!

[@mrgisprojim]

Very Good Advice. --- Seems Like The Drier And More Aged The Board, The More Twist And Warp You Can Expect. For Those Of Us Without A Bandsaw, Might Help To Start Driving Wood Wedges In The Kerf Of Board As It Is Leaving Rear Of Table Saw Blade.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks James! It is hard to tell which boards have tension in them until you cut into them. Your idea of placing wedges in the kerf is very popular! In fact, I made a follow up video on just that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@LutherBuilds]

Good tip, Charlie. The first option should always be the bandsaw when ripping rough pieces to width. This could've happened and would've happened even if you'd jointed and planed the board first. Unfortunately, sometimes we use the tool that is the most convenient or the quickest. Sometimes it just depends on what mood we're in. Sometimes you just never know what's going to happen with any piece of wood.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

You are in very good company, Josh. Michael Fortune says he does all of his ripping with a bandsaw.

[@richie4ohio]

I have always cut thick pieces of wood like that in several passes. Raising the height of the saw blade a half inch or more per pass. That gives the table saw less stress per pass and also helps eliminate kickbacks.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thank you! A series of light passes is a good idea and would certainly help.

[@JerrysThisandThat]

Don't have a table saw but that is good to know about binding and such.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Jerry!

[@doubledarefan]

I ripped a board (~2-1/2" square, ~28" long) into quarters, and at one end, it curled apart (right went right; left went left), the other end, it curled one way (left curled left; right curled harder to the left). Had to move the fence away and freehand the whole operation (yes, risky! My bandsaw is in a shed and probably needs work). When I ripped the 1/2s into 1/2, it was pretty much the same story. Wood: Brazilian mystery hardwood. About as hard as white oak. Also ripped other similar-sized pieces of BMH into like sizes; though they were less squirrely. I clamped them together into a miniature sticker-stack (moisture content was more than ideal), and set it aside for a few months. Much straighter afterwards.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Freehand! Wow, glad it worked out for you.

[@jimmytate7587]

fI once bought a truckload of box car floorboards which turned out to be African Mahogany. I learned a lot about it. First I learned I am extremely allergic to the sawdust. Next I learned that it is chock full of silicon which dulls blades really rapidly. I also learned as you did that the boards seem to have opposing tensions in them that keep the boards fairly straight till you rip them. Its extremely heavy. It makes some of the most beautiful objects when finished and its almost weatherproof. Wish I had more.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Jimmy! Yes, the African mahogany is quite beautiful. I am disappointed about the tension, but that won't stop me from using it!

[@jarredfedor4150]

This has happened a few times to me. The most recent being with some red oak, having a riving knife helps a bit bit can still get pinched. I just made some wedges off of some off cuts that I keep around and tap it in the other end which frees up the saw to finish the cut.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Jarred, you are right about using wedges. In fact, I made a follow up video where I tested that method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk Thanks!

[@willfriar8054]

when cutting a very thick piece set the blade only half the depth make two passes. go slow so the kerf has time to widen for blade clearance. my grandpaw would just lift the board up an inch or so and get it out of the cut, let the saw spin up and slowly lower the wood. he learned on steam power and flat belts, nothing stopped for you only slowed down when overloaded.

[@coburnlowman]

Back in the winter I was ripping white oak for chairs. It was giving the fine tooth blade a hard go so I swapped to a little 7- 1/4 inch contractor style blade because all the cuts were gonna be hand planed anyway. That is a great blade for ripping seasoned hard wood if it's not thick I quickly learned. After blowing thru several I got too comfortable and pulled one back and it caught the blade on the far end. It kicked back so hard that all four corners broke skin in the palm of my hand. My hands are kinda thick and rough but no match to a 5 HP table saw. The other end warped me in the chest so hard that it impressed a bruise of the buckle of my overalls were it rest below my shoulder. (PAY ATTENTION!!!!!) I was quickly reminded of a cartoon drawing on a machine shop wall depicting 2 fellows on a cloud with harps. One fellow had a bandage on his head and his quote was "I only had one accident at work"

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Wow! I'm glad it wasn't any worse. I have a friend who was hospitalized as a result of tension in wood going through a table saw. Thanks.

[@tompritch56]

Good tip Charlie. I had the same deal happen to me. Yes the band saw is a good way.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Tom! I haven't experienced this very often.

[@TabLeft]

I've had that happen it sucks! I had it happen REALLY bad during the holidays when i was cutting some big slabs on my radial arm saw. the wood clamped down so hard on my blade that i had to crank the arm way up and use a mallet to hammer it off. Had to basically realign every part of the saw and replace the blade...

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Wow, that's a lot of tension!

[@darkdelta]

TabLeft, been there and you're right it's pain!

[@mr.twister1387]

I've been watching KZbin for over five years and this is the first time I've ever posted a comment. Hopefully I can save somebody some grief. I'll try to make this as brief as possible. A couple of years ago, I replaced my old craftsman saw with a Grizzly saw that had a Shop Fox T-square fence system. The motor was burnt out but it was a good buy for $100. I find and fix motors so I put in a 2HP motor and wired it for 220 volts. It purred! Since the saw was used and I wasn't familiar with it's quirks, I decided to use my face shield instead of just safety glasses. I kept the shield hanging conveniently near the saw and as time went by I realized that I didn't feel comfortable not wearing it. Good thing! One day I was ripping a 3/4" pine board and caught a knot. This was a total fluke. I was standing to the side of the saw but that f**cking knot hit my shield right where my left cheek would have been. Even though it scared the crap out of me I finished the cut, turned off the saw and grinned! No damage to me but it scarred the shield pretty good. The're inexpensive. I bought a couple more. Now I use one when I'm at the grinder too. Always! It just shows that even though you take reasonable care, doo-doo can occur. Be safe all!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Holy smokes! Good thing you were wearing the face shield! You are absolutely right, "stuff" happens and you can never be too safe. Thanks for the comment!

[@smokeeater8387]

Mr. Twister I'm pretty new to wood working and my table saw doesn't have any guards on it, a buddy of mine who's a volunteer firefighter stopped by a couple weeks ago and told me he went on a call where a guy had some kick back on his table saw and the piece of wood absolutely shattered thee guys head, killed him on the spot. I have since bought a kick back preventer and will be putting it on that sucker next time I use it. Sounds like you had one damn close call brother, I've had some kickback on mine but got lucky 👍

[@fideauone3416]

Yeah, I hate that splitter and guard too. Great advice.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, I wish there was something better.

[@thoslwwillis]

I purchased a hybrid table saw from Sears a couple of years b4 riving knives were required. Is there an aftermarket riving knife available by now that I could add to my table saw? I phoned Sears with the same question but they did not know what I was talking about. Thanks Jack Bench.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Tom, I have heard very good things about the Shark Guard. Maybe you can find something here that will work: thesharkguard.com/

[@condor5635]

Thanks for the tip. With that nice bandsaw I don't think I would have even considered cutting it on the table saw. Way too bulky. Beautiful pice of wood!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! I did a follow up video on this with some ways to handle this without a bandsaw: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@opasworkshop8373]

great tip Charlie thanks for sharing brother.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Opa!

[@Shoerona]

Great tip, Charlie!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks man!!

[@DrShankenstein]

When you said "In the future am I going to use it?............................... Probably not." That's when I liked this video. But overall, I did like it :) Thanks for posting it!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Just being honest, thanks!!

[@alansimpson596]

How about driving a small wooden wedge into the cut end of the wood to widen the kerf and keep the edges from binding on the blade. I do have a bandsaw but it's not up to cutting such a decent piece of wood.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Alan, a wedge would certainly help provided that it didn't fall out. Other people have also suggested making a series of light passes with the tablesaw.

[@codygray54]

I've always pushed down on the back of the board lifting the front off the blade quickly and sending it thru again re kerfing the stock. After a couple passes the wood runs out of tension. And ur good to go. In my experience that's the quickest easiest fix.

[@Peter-.H]

Great tip, great video! Thanks a lot 👍

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Peter! I am glad you liked it.

[@pdbuilder8212]

I worked in a saw mill as a head Sawyer for 18 years pine was the worst thing to saw there where times the timber bind would pinch so tight the it would almost stop the blade which was 56 inch across run by a 100 hp electric motor turning the blade and it would push the carriage back also or other times I would start in to the log and the log would split open almost all the way along it's length

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Holy smokes! That is amazing!

[@diymanable]

PD Builder out of it. Think I would quite that job lol .

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

LOL!!

[@ubtaz8210]

had same issue I find using a dado blade works well you loose a little material but I find it a lot easier than the band saw

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! I never thought of that and you are the first person to suggest using a dado blade.

[@mooman4836]

I had the same thing happen with a 2x4 as i saw it pinching i just put some pine shims to spread it, worked fine.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Man! Shims are definitely one way to deal with this.

[@reddawn1960]

yep bandsaw way to go when that kind of a situation occurs. but if you don't have one you can always use a wedge or two, placing them on the outfeed side. it does mean a couple of stops and starts of the tablesaw whilst placing them. and a good rigid fence.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Yep, you are absolutely right! In fact, I made a follow up video to address just that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk Thanks!

[@martinoamello3017]

I pre-dented my chest playing baseball as a kid so now when boards fly back at me I'm already in pain so I don't notice it as much. I did just buy a bandsaw this past week so all is good in Kickbackville.. I did get one to my noggin once. That wasn't nearly as much fun as it might sound.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Ouch! Glad to hear that you got a band saw!

[@SnootchieBootchies27]

It's nice to see that you're honest about not using that hokey plastic abomination that was probably designed by lawyers that have never used a table saw.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! I really want to use the guard. In fact I installed it just the other day and the within a day or so I had to make a 45 degree cut and the piece bound up on the pawls. Granted, if I had the blade higher it probably would have been ok, but I took it off and went back to just a riving knife.

[@thedragyn]

for those of us who don't have a band saw, another idea would be to saw through a little at a time. it might take several passes but would be safe.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Many people make multiple passes exactly as you described. I received a lot of good comments and ideas after I made this video. I then made another video where I tested some other ways of dealing with wood tension. Flipping it around and cutting from the opposite direction worked very well. You can see that video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@billgolcher2537]

Awesome I had this problem last year what causes this is the blade not 90 degrees to the wood or bad blades

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Bill! In this particular case it was caused by tension in the wood which caused the wood to actually move in toward the blade as it was being pushed through the saw.

[@brianfuller4071]

Great idea to use a band saw instead of a table saw......BUT what do you do if you do not own a band saw???? In my case I just don't have a lot of money nor do I have a lot of tools, and even further my "shop" is only 8 feet by 8 feet to start with so I don't have a lot of room for "extra" saws! I am someday planning on buying a band saw....but I haven't owned one in all the years I have don't wood working, so I have had to learn how to "work with what I have" and run things through a table saw that wasn't exactly "safe" to start with! For me I have learned to "wedge" the work apart slightly, as my table saw never came with a guard as I bought it used and there is no mount for a riving knife either (which is strange as well) so I keep wood shingles around that I use as wedges when I need them!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hi Brian, I'm sorry that I didn't address that in this first video, but I did address that and more in a follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@kennylunsford5759]

Yeah a piece of wood that large, a band saw is a must. Like you said much safer. I was also thinking of hammering a wedge in the cut behind blade in the wood and then continue to push through table saw but it seems like a dangerous practice.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

I tend to agree with you about using wedges, but apparently it is a VERY common practice. I won't judge those who use wedges, in fact, I actually tested it out in my follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk Personally, I will stick with the band saw.

[@thomastieffenbacherdocsava1549]

Wondered when we'd see you again. LOL! What type of bandsaw blade are you using. Important in doing this. Nice to see you working on a project charlie.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Tom! I am using a 1/2" skip tooth blade with about 6tpi.

[@woodworks3585]

Great Tip Charlie. Thank you for sharing.... Shared.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Terry!

[@ronh9384]

I would say the first thing to do would have been to joint one edge and face before running it through the tablesaw. With a rough face and edge you have too many imperfections that can cause irregular friction against the fence and table. And if you use the bandsaw with rough boards don't use the fence for the same reason. While the fence on the bandsaw won't cause kickback it can cause binding if the surface is very irregular.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Of course.

[@bearkatwood6354]

Great one Charlie, sounds like it was over-seasoned ;)

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Brian!

[@SterlingsWoodcrafts]

great tip Charlie

[@brettkowalewski9535]

Cut the board 1/3 to 1/2(if it will go that far)of the length, then flip it around with the same side riding the fence and finish the cut. Works fine every time.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

You are exactly right! In fact, I tested that method in this follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@jonlanier_]

I don't own a bandsaw. I would make a few simple wedges and have some one place them in as I cut. Just like using a chain saw. Or... make shorter (height) cuts until I got through.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Jon, I'm sorry that I didn't address what to do if you don't have a bandsaw in this first video, but I did address that and more in the follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@jonlanier_]

Thanks.. I just caught it. Appreciate you doing a follow up.

[@brianedward2986]

Use little plastic wedges on the other side of the riving knife. Drive them into the wood in your cut it will prevent the wood from closing together and binding the blade. Because not all of us own a bandsaw.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Brian. I received several suggestions on how to handle binding and I made another video where I tested them out. Yep, driving a wedge was one of them! kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@ArchStanton9]

Even without tension, rough lumber isn't going to sit flat on the table and it's likely to bind anyway. I too have gotten to where I do most of my rough ripping at the bandsaw whether the lumber is rough or not.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

You are in very good company, Jim. Michael Fortune says he does all of his ripping with a bandsaw.

[@jamesmcintyre348]

Thanks. Will use you tip.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks James, I'm glad you liked it!

[@jamess9117]

When I apprenticed with an 'old school' craftsman he refused to cut any plank more than 1" thick on a table saw - he always went to the bandsaw first and so do I.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Those guys were pretty smart!

[@jamess9117]

A lot smarter than me (and far more talented then I will ever be)!

[@toysoldier46552]

Unless your bandsaw is a tinker toy like mine is, I tend to stop the saw remove the board, then flip and cut from the other end, even if I have to finish with a hand saw it beats a wandering band saw blade.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Good move, Anthony. I received a lot of good comments and ideas after I made this video. I then made another video where I tested some other ways of dealing with wood tension. Flipping it around and cutting from the opposite direction worked very well. You can see that video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@toysoldier46552]

Nice to know I wasn't the first one to mention it to you :)

[@gaz1967]

I usually knock a wedge in the end which stops the timber from binding.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

HI Gary, you are right about using wedges! In fact, I made a follow up video where I tested that method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk Thanks!

[@gaz1967]

Jack Bench Woodworking glad it worked​ in your​ test, I always have a few wedges handy they're simple to use and cost you nothing.

[@samlogosz2159]

You can always cut half the thickness of the stock, and Endo the board and cut the other half of the board.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

You are exactly right, Sam! In fact, I did a follow up video on different ways to handle this situation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@thelowmein9143]

That's a beautiful piece of mahogany!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! I bought it a long time ago, I was kind of saving it for a special project and was hesitant to use it until recently.

[@chuckbecker376]

really the easiest way to stop the binding of the saw blade is to wedge the cut on the back side of the blade. can be done with or without the blade guard

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Good point! I made a follow up video that addresses that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@MRrwmac]

I see your TS has a riving knife (not the one with the blade guard). If your riving knife is the same thickness as your blade, why didn't that prevent it from binding on the blade? Not second guessing. Just wondering for my own curiosity?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Good question! The thickness of my riving knife is closer in to a thin kerf blade and I was running a full 1/8" blade when I made this cut. If the knife was thicker then it would have bound onto the riving knife, better then binding just to the blade, but it still would have been a problem.

[@kerfnut7898]

Wow, something to think about. What if you don't have a bandsaw?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Todd, I think a bandsaw is the safest way to deal with this, but it is not the only way. Some people have suggested making multiple light passes with the table saw and even more people suggested driving a shim into the kerf to keep it from binding on the blade.

[@africancichlids3011]

riving knife , does open the kerf and keeps it from moving

[@sallymaggiespotty]

Then sir you are SCREWED.

[@Expendible1971]

Good tip, if you have got a band saw. :)

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Good point! I made a follow up video that addresses that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@MichaelLawing]

Yikes! Been there before, but not with anything that big. Glad you fared safely.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Michael, that board moved a LOT.

[@antmallett6065]

The board you were cutting looks pretty rough - sawn. Perhaps the reason it bound in the TS is that it wasn't flat. Why didn't you face plane it first? Either on the jointer, or by hand.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, you are right that the board was rough sawn and it would have been better to joint it first. The reason I didn't is because the sides were already fairly straight, still jointing would be a best practice. On the other hand, the fact that it was rough sawn had little if anything to do with binding on the blade in this circumstance. What happened it that the wood moved around the kerf until it bound tightly against the blade.

[@rickwaldripsr.5113]

This happened to me awhile back. The saw heated up and caused an awful stink that I couldn’t get out of the garage. It hung around until I went into the house and changed my pants.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

That can be pretty scary! Thanks for watching.

[@bobleeswoodshop7919]

Good tip

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Bob!

[@rorygray2975]

I'd probably just knock a wedge into the end that is cut so as to keep them slightly apart.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Yep, you are absolutely right! In fact, I made a follow up video to address just that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk Thanks!

[@MaxwelldeAraujoRodrigues]

I have a question.. if this is a video to tell people don't do what you did... and you don't use blade guard.. so people should consider using a blade guard as well. Don't them?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Absolutely, a blade guard is always a good idea.

[@billr2996]

Should always use a riving knife even if you don't use the guard but sometimes that doesn't stop the pinching and twisting as you make the cut

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Absolutely! I always use the riving knife.

[@ronnieschwa2214]

I have never had this problem I simply make myself A couple very thin wooden wedges and as I start to make the cut I slipped a wedge in between to keep the wood separated it has always worked these wedges are only about 1" x 1 1/2 " and they taper down from a quarter inch to nothing

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hi Ronnie, your way definitely works! I actually made a follow up video where I tested using wedges: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@grandn8646]

What would have happened if you just cut half of the depth, then flip board over and cut through the other half?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks, that might have helped. There was so much tension in this particular board that it might still have bound up, but certainly not as badly. I made a follow up video that shows a few other ways to deal with this problem: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@robertbrunston5406]

Thanks

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Glad you liked it!

[@bobputman5947]

here is a question woodworkers might ask, why does the board act like this on the tablesaw but not on the bandsaw, can you answer this for us charlie.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Good question, Bob. The board acts the same on a bandsaw, but the bandsaw is a much safer way to rip a board. With a bandsaw there is only 1/2" of blade that the board can bind on. With my tablesaw there was over 8" of blade plus the riving knife in the board so there was that much more surface area that the board could bind on. Plus, you can't get kickback on a bandsaw.

[@pitchforksurgeon]

we always stopped the saw then pounded in a wedge to wedge apart the cut side then turned it back on n kept cutting

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

That definitely works! I actually made a follow up video where I tested using wedges: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@KaliBlaz]

when you are ripping a piece of wood that massive and heavy, kickbacks are very unlikely to happen and your saw will not throw a 50lbs piece of wood at you, you motor will simply stall. unless your table saw has some 20 horse power motor. kick backs happen when you are cutting smaller pieces of wood in narrow cuts.

[@craigmckinney2219]

advice: stop the saw and turn the wood end for end, or when stopped drop a screw or nail in the kerf past the saw blade. it won't close up again.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Craig! I actually made a follow up video where I tested that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@ohgtogeorge]

OR you could run it over your jointer(in the background) and square two edges then run it in the table saw. OR like you ended up doing IF your jointer is to narrow for the board run it thru the bandsaw.

[@africancichlids3011]

i took that shit off my saw threw it in the garbage , made a zero clearance insert and made a riving knife made of maple , problem solved . my off cut is always left side of the blade i always use the right side for my keeper piecee. good tips for people , though

[@volcom84bait]

it does that to me all time with my circular saw .. just cutting half an inch or 3/4 inch plywood with straight guide.... wondering if there something wrong with it.. anybody??

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

That should not happen with plywood. I would say that something is wrong, maybe a dull blade or the plywood is not well supported on both sides. I usually lay plywood on piece of foam insulation board when I cut it with a circular saw.

[@RobinDobbie]

Couldn't you do multiple shallow cuts on the table saw?

[@RobinDobbie]

Or make a custom throat plate with a splitter the exact thickness of your blade.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Good thinking, multiple passes would certainly help. A perfectly sized splitter might help some, but I think the wood would then bind onto the splitter itself.

[@alaskanmal]

What if you dont have a bandsaw ???, Couldn't you use a wooden tapered wedge ?

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

foff44 Yes! In fact, I made a follow up video where I not only discuss this, but I actually test how well it works. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ap2sf4Rrl7KYh8k

[@roccocalzone5480]

if it starts binding on the table saw. jam a shim or 2 in the outfeed side of the board and finish the rip!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks! I actually made a follow up video where I tested that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@woodensurfer]

I would not even imagine ripping wood this thick with a TS. I will always rip with a bandsaw and then joint with my TS to correct width.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

You're guaranteed to not have this happen to you then.

[@woodensurfer]

@@JackbenchWoodworking Ripping with a circular blade, be it on a TS or RAS, is inherently a dangerous operation. The thicker, the more irregular, the longer the wood, the more dangerous ripping with a circular blade will be. This is because the circular blade is a two-dimensional cutting tool, and TS and RAS have powerful motors. Have rational fear of this operation and take the utmost cautions and preventive measures. Comply. Indifference is ground for disaster.

[@MrCheltune]

You could have driven a wedge in the cut part and carried on cutting it on your table saw

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Yes, you are right about using a wedge.

[@cncwoodworxroc6881]

answer- power feeder. Perfect rip everytime, tension gone.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Wish I had one, Chris!

[@pijnto]

I can never understand why kick back palls are installed on anything they simply don't work

[@paulcharles8921]

I have been saved several times by using the blade guard and kick back preventer. You gave no reason for not using it. Try it, you'll like it.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Paul.

[@ryszardbargiel7256]

Bad title. Recommending a band saw in place of a table saw is NOT for table saw owners. To prevent binding, make sure to never remove that wedge/split piece directly behind the saw blade. THAT is #1. Cut slowly. Make sure the fence is parallel to the blade and the wood piece is moving through straight. Move the cutting blade so it barely pierces the surface of the top of the wood. Make sure the piece of wood is as flat as possible on the bottom side and the side touching the fence. If there is any curve/skew/bend along either the bottom or the fence touching side, plane it down, sand it, or use the table saw to cut along that edge to flatten it. In this case, he could have moved the fence away from the wood since it was going to go through straight anyway, to prevent any pushing between the fence and blade. At least he did say one thing very correctly. If there is binding, STOP! Putting pressure on that blade/wood is bad for the saw/motor and dangerous.

[@bobbg9041]

No bandsaw! Handsaw, Jigsaw, Split the wood after making a shallow kerf on both sides 2" thick board shallow is 3/4" each side.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Your way definitely works! I actually made a follow up video where I tested a few other ideas: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@dennisdobeck3018]

Why not just use the safty device and a wedge if needed, that is why they shipped it with your saw!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Dennis, I wish I would have included that in the video, but I did address this and more in a follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@David-hh9hr]

Im sure glad he told me to use the band saw cuzz I was gonna use dynamite to finish the cut. Kertastrophy avoided.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

LOL!!

[@nowherebrain]

why not just cut it in several passes...not even going to watch the rest...it's common sense....square two sides with a hand plane....set the depth to half or so and cut...increae the depth...cut again...repeat as necessary. EDIT: ok..self correction...using the bandsaw is a great method...plus it has a much smaller kerf. you may resaw or use a joiner(I do not own a joiner/jointer)so I just do light passes on my table saw to square it up...if it's a smaller and less figured piece I will use my no. 4 otherwise...table saw.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Thanks Justin. I think cutting in multiple passes is certainly one way to address the problem. Actually, I made a follow up video where I tested a few other ways to deal with it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk Thanks for watching!

[@gregbenwell6173]

BUT...... What if you don't own a band saw? Then what do you do??? I personally have never been allowed (until recently with a new lovely lady in my life) to even buy tools! And my new lady is kind enough to indulge me and even buy me new tools from time to time, so a band saw is NOW in my future but being we are now both disabled, money doesn't grow on trees either still! Besides too I have a small work shop, which I am just now outfitting to do woodworking!!! But it is still taking me about 17 years to get to doing a lot of the things I want to do since I met the woman I am with now!! Is it any wonder though why I left my first and second wives???? LOL!! But honestly though my "micro shop" is limited on space as it is only about 8 feet by 8 feet, so anything I buy has to be portable enough to work outside in front of my shed which is my shop! I do have a small table saw, jig and circular saws, and a reciprocating saw as well! And I have built a number of things with the tools I have! But at times resawing a board on a table saw it my only option!!!! Heck there are a lot of tools I have wanted for years I still just don't own, like routers of any kind and when it comes to making a simple bull nose I use a Dremel with a sanding drum for a lot of my end grain and trim work which takes literally forever!! And I don't even own a drill press or a bench sander of any kind as well!!! In fact I have for many years done a lot of things without a lot of tools to start with!! Jeepers I just bought my first two nail guns which before that I was major old school with hammer and nails and I am 52 years old now! But like I say my "new" lovely lady appreciates me enough to allow me to buy tools and even helps me out by buying me tools as well! And I wish I had met her 30 some years ago before I married my first wife!!! LOL!!! Just imagine where I would be now!!! Of course her "rule" is she buys me tools then I have to fix things for her....which is only fair as well!!! A small price to pay for her kindness and understanding!!

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

Hi Greg, congrats on your new lady. It sounds like you got a good one! I made a follow up video that addresses just your question about what if you don't have a band saw. You can see it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYvFlWmbaaeMbsk

[@TheKnightArgent]

Thumbs up for "seasoning."

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

That's for sure!

[@dougbarlow]

When ripping, your fence shouldn't extend past the riving knife, this prevents binding

[@CharlesReiche]

I need to relocate my shutoff switch to be closer to me for just this reason.

[@JackbenchWoodworking]

I really like being able to stop the saw with my knee