Everyone With a SBC/BBC Should do this! (Almost Free Mod)

[@packerdj9846]

I’ve seen your video from a while back on plugging the bypass. I run about 80-90 lbs of oil pressure and have done this mod ever since and had 0 failures. Thank you

[@jeffjarquin5600]

Also very important to tap the oil galleries above the cam on a sbc, especially when you have over 60psi of oil pressure.

[@cuttersperformance]

100%

[@SmokepitPresident]

What will that do? Serious question

[@cuttersperformance]

@Han Solo press in ones can pop out, causing a loss of oil pressure

[@SmokepitPresident]

@@cuttersperformance I've had coffee now. Disregard my previous comment lol

[@reason2gether]

@@cuttersperformance To be honest, I have never seen one or had one fail before. If they are installed and properly staked in place, they will not fall out even above 75 psi.

[@DonniePatterson-qn3kg]

Good tip, have been doing this since the late 70's, 100% filtration

[@cuttersperformance]

Yes sir works like a charm! Thanks for checking out my video

[@prestonrieger8410]

Roller cams and lifters are failing far too often nowadays too. It’s not just flat tappets. At least with a flat tappet cam you can measure lifter crown, and lobe taper to ensure the best chance of success. Joe Gibbs driven BR30 break in oil is a lifesaver as well.

[@sc358.]

Haven't built anything for a few years, unfamiliar with changes to part quality related to supply chain changes. But yes we used Driven. Also had infrequent failure of Jessel roller lifters. Went to bushed Morel.

[@jchavins]

probably from the removal of zinc because of emmissions...try Mobil one 15-50W.....

[@jeffjarquin5600]

Your absolutely right. Good quality filter and plug that bypass. Been doing this for 30 years

[@jacobnorth8642]

If you are attempting the new car 10000 mile BS oil change an expensive filter might help but just like the sealed for life transmissions, no maintenance ruins components. I have 200000 to over 300000 on my vehicles and i use cheap Walmart filters, change my oil every 3333 or 5000 miles depending on vehicle. The only ones i pony up extra cash for wix fliters is on my diesels.

[@miketee2444]

I always laughed at the cut away of a fram filter at parts stores. They use the bypass as a reason to discredit the brand. I'm definitely on board with bypassing oil as opposed to restricting it. If you've got much metal circulating then a filter isn't the issue anyway.

[@PeggyParrow]

Also use a 51061 wix oil filter , which has a very strong bypass, try it by using a long strong screw driver, set the filter up right on a bench put the driver down into the filter and push down as hard as you can. Good way to test one filter against the other . Hope this helps.

[@philipmazzuca2269]

Good advice , I’ve been doing this for 30 years.

[@cuttersperformance]

Good man! It's an important tip that alot dont do!

[@frotobaggins7169]

Uncle Tony's Garage did a few videos on this topic. He concluded that the taper on the lobes of the cam needed to spin the lifter is not ground in to the cam correctly, thus not spinning the lifter and causing the damage. This seems to be a very common problem today no matter the cam manufacturer.

[@cuttersperformance]

Or not enough crown on the lifter face mixed with poor surface hardness. I checked both the lifters and cam crown and still didnt win o this one haha 😅

[@frotobaggins7169]

@@cuttersperformance Check out tony's video. Maybe he's right, maybe he's wrong, the bevel on the cam must be difficult to measure as well as the hardness. IT makes sense that the cam isn't spinning the lifter since the lifter has a groove worn in one place rather than being just worn down like a mushroom from lack of surface hardness. IDK It's definitely a problem industry wide. I hear many saying that Morel lifters and one other brand are the only good lifters left. As for the cam, it's all hit and miss I guess.

[@cuttersperformance]

@froto baggins no he's certainly right on that, thats why I check every flat tappet cam and lifters. Alot of guys dont realize the lifters have to spin if they dont spin right away the cam is screwed. Another major issue is that these old blocks have lifter bores and aren't so round anymore, preventing the lifter from spinning freely

[@frotobaggins7169]

@@cuttersperformance Yeah, I just think it's odd that it's never been a problem until recently. Many guys have used all the assembly lube, heavy duty oil and ZDDP additives and still have the problem. Even people who meticulously watched break in. It seems like it's tied to just total lack of quality control. It seems to effect just one or two lobes which makes me wonder if they have a bad grinding wheel or something. IDK

[@rustybritches6747]

You either worded that wrong or I interpreted it wrong or you weren't paying attention to what he was saying! the problem we're all having with lifters is surface hardness and the lifters not being ground with a dome on them, that's what's eating up the cams and lifters! The lobes on the camera also taper but it's usually the lifters fault unless you're buying a white box made in China can then you can pretty much guarantee failure with the hardening process being the least problematic! It's not just comp cams either there's literally a hundred different suppliers with different brand names when it comes to lifters but in reality there's only a handful of people that actually manufacture lifters, they just get rebranded.

[@kennethcohagen3539]

TRW and probably other companies make oil pump drive shafts for SBCs that are solid steel instead of a shaft with a nylon bushing holding the pump and shaft together. That together with always using a new oil pump pick up tube and not putting tons of silicone on any seal will prevent most rebuilt engine failures.

[@lelanburns6182]

Also the harder you run it,the more frequently you change the oil and filter. Conditions you put it in, matters!

[@gmcnelly2468]

another tip: don't run the orange filter of death, you know the ones that are on 99% of the engines in the junkyard.

[@cuttersperformance]

Facts lol

[@ronnielewis1862]

Lol no Fram

[@jeffallen3382]

Exactly! I've seen so many orange filters on blown engines...

[@jacobnorth8642]

I have never had a problem with any filter when oil changes done regularly, you cam and lifter meltdown was not a cheap filters fault. I don't think a expensive filter would have saved motor from that failure, or a plugged bypass...

[@andyking9673]

every race engine i have ever touched had a Fram HP filter on it. Sometimes we had to paint them black and put a Wix sticker on them

[@plumcrazy588]

We have seen a lot of these issues pop up on youtube and some engine builders actually started testing lifters and cams. From what I have seen the lifter tapers are machined wrong. About a week or so ago Muscle Car Solutions makes a video saying its critical to use the right combination of parts, use the correct break in oil, and to follow the procedure correctly. I just had to leave a comment bc it seems as though he might have a connection with Comp Cams. My point is this...there are engine builders who have been doing this out there for decades well before they changed the oil content back in the 90s and they switched to roller. My point was if you dont have the time or money to do it the first time will you have more time and money to fix it when it wipes a cam? I agree on your comment if you have the money go roller bc I'm sure the cam company isnt going to help you out any. If you go roller you should show the viewers how to install a retro cam and also which lifters.

[@cuttersperformance]

Thats the thing, I believe most of the issues are 1) Crap lifters *bad crown and surface hardness 2) Lifter bores on 40+ year old blocks are egg shaped (lifters not spinning) 3) Not using the proper oil and break in procedures. I dont feel right telling guys not to bother with flat tappets because not everyone can afford a roller cam setup but risks for flat tappets are real and guys need to educate themselves before deciding

[@kh40yr]

System 1 filtration here. Havent bought a on the shelf filter since 2000. My filter gets cleaned and inspected every 3000. No bypass worries at all.

[@markmiller2349]

Great Channel I have blocked off my old Bill filterbypass like you did in a previous video but I understand oil filters have a built-in bypass great Channel I watch all your videos

[@cuttersperformance]

Not all have bypasses built in. I run a Balwin B6 on most and it does not

[@SmokepitPresident]

Had shomp shams lifters do the same thing to me last year. Lost 3 in one go.

[@timmygun1]

Roller cam baby. Everytime all the time. Good info Pat. Keep those videos coming. Thanks man!

[@cuttersperformance]

If the budget allows roller is the best bet

[@JohnMiller-ee9pn]

I have had good luck with the Crower cam saver lifters nice stuff.

[@ChrisMcCutcheon-wj2pp]

Crower and isky both make excellent parts, only thing I run from comp is push rods and rockers, I stopped using comp in the 90s, alot of these problems stem from oil ingredients being changed, I use moly grease on lobes and I run delo diesel oil for break in, right after break in, change the ac or fix filter on sbc

[@roberthollinshead2325]

Most filters have a built in bypass too. You'll have to run a non bypass filter and a blocked filter adapter to make sure all the oil is filtered

[@jeremyhuston1]

Sorry to hear about your engine break-in failure. It's a lot of time and effort to have a failure at that point. I watch a lot of other motorsport channels on youtube and there are big problems with lifters failing. Brand-new ones are sketchy. It's gotten to the point of switching to rollers or reusing old lifters. Just an FYI. Keep up the great content.

[@krazyphucker369]

A really good magnet on the filter, inside the pan and on the drain plug and cut your filters open often on a new build to see what's inside the lifter deal is a shitty one I've had one new engine fail like that it was pretty much instantly wasted

[@operatingengineer]

Great suggestion! This saved my 408! I took the motor apart for maintenance and it had a cam button (the kind with the bearing in the front) the little bearing went bad and it distroyed itself and almost wore a hole in the cover all that metal went in the pan ! And there was lots of it! But the cam lifters and all the bearings were mint! I didn’t build this motor but the guy who did did one good thing putting a plug in the bypass ! The Timkin cam bearing with a flat tappet not such a smart move! 😂

[@cuttersperformance]

Yeah it could save alot of engines out there. Glad it worked out for you

[@mikecondoluci53]

ive been doing that since the 70s never had any problems , keep up the good work, im an amsoil dealer if theres anything you need let me know ill take care of ya bud ,thanks for your videos

[@cuttersperformance]

Thanks Mike I appreciate it

[@yurimodin7333]

This is why I am only playing with factory roller blocks. Also my dad worked for one of the major oil filter manufacturers. The engineers told him that most filters usually plug up in the first 500 miles or so and the internal bypass in the filter opens anyway.

[@cuttersperformance]

Theres alot of fine metal particles in the first 20 mins of running from the cross hatch on the cylinders. Filters should be changed after the initial break with a flat tappet or roller if you want to be safe

[@davidwood1923]

Thanks for Sharing... All Tips Help

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

You can tap and plug the OE filter mount, or replace with a bypass eliminator mount also.

[@anthonygentile1362]

Check out Johnson lifters

[@elky82]

Master plumber here, that is indeed a 3/8" pipe plug not 1/4", 1/4" is more like the diameter of that green screwdriver you're using

[@cuttersperformance]

A 1/4 NPT plug is just over 1/2" OD. The hole in the stock adpter is the perfect size to tap to 1/4 npt. A 3/8 npt plug is almost 5/8 OD way to big

[@jimmy_olds]

Good stuff Pat! I’m putting together a 454 bbc now, this is a true down and dirty build with a custom flat tappet cam from Bullet. I’m definitely going to use this advice

[@cuttersperformance]

I love a down and dirty build! "Budget" stuff is the most fun haha

[@jimmy_olds]

@@cuttersperformance yessir! I did spend a little money on 063 heads. Bigger valves and some bowl work. The cam is 232/236 .510 lift (or there about) on a 108° LSA

[@jwise7114]

Bullet cams are great. I worked there and all my cams come from Bullet.

[@RANDOMNATION907]

I cannot get in contact with bullet cams. Are they still in business? I went to their web-page and every link returns an error message.

[@jimmy_olds]

@@RANDOMNATION907 I hope so! I just emailed the guy who had helped me to ask

[@harnettsgarage]

My 350 already had that bypass plugged when I bought it, I reused it!

[@andrewsteele2800]

This is a great upgrade. I use k&n oil filters.

[@vetteman7856]

Most oil filters have a bypass built in. I run the K&N 3003 with a bypass it's a long filter and since it has more surface area it has less chance for the bypass to open when the oil is cold.

[@mikef-gi2dg]

According to Chevrolet service tip...a hydraulic lifter should rotate minimum 45 degrees for every two crank revolutions. It's the non rotation because of taper problem, and improper surface finish on mostly lifters that kills them.. Look at a new gm lifter to see what is proper. If you look at older lifters which survived with no problems...you will see normal wear, not gouging, in a circular pattern on the face of the lifter. The offset wear pattern ( not dead center of the face)shows why the lifter rotates. It took some digging to find this, plus looking at dozens of still functioning old lifters.

[@cuttersperformance]

Thats correct, some guys will even run them with no valve covers with a white line on the push rod to watch rotation

[@mikef-gi2dg]

@@cuttersperformance Many years ago when I first started fooling with engines, I saw this and had no idea what I was witnessing. With the current cam lifter situation going on this is good info to know.

[@philzellmer6073]

Always check the crown on the lifters and the taper on the cam lobes before installing....there should be several thou on each....

[@inscoredbz]

I've done this for years. I ran 20w50 in my last 406 at 75psi oil pressure. I've never had a problem. I've heard you can bust a filter, but I have yet to see it. It's a must do in a hotrod sbc.

[@cuttersperformance]

Exactly! Thanks for watching

[@george1la]

Great idea, or a high pressure spring. I use a high pressure spring and high output, volume pump. You must watch your oil and filter if you do this then it should be safe.

[@cuttersperformance]

Use a good quality filter (balwin or wix) and change within a normal interval. I've never had one balloon or damage in any way, even running some engines in a cold Canadian winter

[@g-manb1761]

No ZDDP in the oil????

[@mb-fs1yo]

Have done this mod for years, have always used Baldwin filters

[@macho4x4warlock98]

Thanks for the great tip!!!!

[@Trikekid84]

Did the lifters have a crown when they were new? I haven't had that happen, but I've seen weld precocity in rock Auto lifters. Thankfully they sent an extra 4 and I was able to run the good ones. So far no issues.

[@cuttersperformance]

Yeah, lifters had crown, cam had taper, lifter bores were good, proper oil was used, and the open spring pressure didn't exceed 300lbs over the nose. Maybe surface hardness? I'm not sure, but I've always done everything the same and never had an issue until this one

[@bryanst.martin7134]

I thought the Oil pressure was controlled by the Pump's relief valve.

[@cuttersperformance]

It is controlled by the pump pressure valve. This is the oil filter bypass valve in the video

[@ValleyRock13]

That cam and lifters taking a dump had nothing to do with that bypass .

[@cuttersperformance]

Yes....but if it was plugged it could have saved all the bearings, Crank ect

[@ValleyRock13]

@@cuttersperformance The amount of metal that I saw missing I don't believe was enough to plug the filter and cause a properly functioning bypass to open, however If you do plug the bypass and THEN plug the filter, then you have zero oil .

[@cuttersperformance]

@ValleyRock13 the bypass spring is soo light the bypass will open on a brand new filter

[@fastone371]

@@cuttersperformance When a lifter is that bad that is simply a parts defect. We have had a number of flat tappets go bad in the last few years, this is a well known problem in the industry. Even if you had plugged the bypass you still have all of that metal raining down on the rotating assembly, its a risk not disassembling the entire engine to clean the metal out.

[@cuttersperformance]

@fastone371 you are correct but ive seen several now that are basically saved if that bypass is plugged. If not, all the bearings are embedded, and a crank polish or grinding is needed to repair.

[@N-Lee]

2:45 It's not easy finding a Non-Bypass Filter. They aren't advertised as such, I can't even find info about it in the filters fine print

[@luckyPiston]

4:07 ah C Cams got it, while we're on the topic .. Question about Summit Racing 4-7 swap sbc ft cams , are the lifters that come in the C/L kit good lifters ??

[@cuttersperformance]

@luckyPiston no, Chinese crap. Cams are good though

[@luckyPiston]

@@cuttersperformance Good ta know , thank you.

[@classicwefi]

I learned that the hard way 18 years ago when the oil filter bypass got stuck on my freshly built 383 wrecked the bearing in 3000 miles .

[@niveknospmoht8743]

What would your recommendation be about grooving the bottom of the lifter bore to get more oil to the cam lobe. A quick note on a how to would have been nice

[@SuperDave227D]

Great info! Thanks!

[@jchavins]

what's the difference ? Your cartridge oil filter has a spring in it that allows the oil to bypass the filter cartridge element above 25-30 psi anyway.....

[@ronniecox109]

not all a PH 30 does not have bypass, a PH 5 does ,but both fit a SBC.

[@everettdean1215]

That would be in pressure differential between the inlet and exit of the filter. Get your facts straight.

[@johnnyturbo8460]

Could you do a video on exactly how to plug the bypass? Or at least a good detailed description would be nice.

[@ralphparker9263]

What if you are running a oil cooler like on a truck,it has a little valve in it is it a by pass or is it a temperature controlled valve??

[@KoryRude]

BUILT in OPTION is OUR FORTE.....😊

[@rickyfulks889]

Who actually made the lifters for shomp shams? I doubt they made them, Johnson?

[@reason2gether]

Very good information. I am currently rebuilding my 327 because the cam went flat and debris made it into the bearings through the by-pass. If I am correct, it appears that the lobe of concern in your video is the same lobe that failed on mine, the # 6 cylinder exhaust lobe. I wonder if the location of the lobe in the engine has the least splash oiling or if the cam manufacturers hardening treatment somehow is inadequate in that area. I had two cams by the same manufacturer go bad on that same lobe. This is the first time I am going to use a non-bypass oil filter adapter (billet unit, not modified OEM) and an aftermarket Roller Cam. Your experience with them is a great reassurance that they work safely. Do you also use a hi-pressure, hi-volume pump as well? I am trying the new "shark-tooth" oil pump on this rebuild as well.

[@reason2gether]

I agree with the concept of plugging the by-pass. I also think it should stay plugged beyond the break-in process because a component failure can happen well after break-in and even with the roller cam, if a roller goes bad and the wheel comes apart, all the debris will do the same if allowed to go through the by-pass. Yes, block off the oil filter housing by-pass, AND use a filter that does not have an internal by-pass, otherwise you will defeat the purpose.

[@cuttersperformance]

Sorry to hear about your engine man. Im wondering if you have a egg shaped lifter bore? Two cams same lobe wouldn't be suprised. I run std pressure HV pumps on most builds I run a blocked bypass, with a non bapass fillter all the time, works perfectly 👍

[@reason2gether]

@@cuttersperformance That is good to hear, Thank you! As for the lifter bores, they are fine. I had initially run the hydraulic "151" cam in this engine for a few thousand miles with no issue. Only the later installed solid-lifter cams (both Ultradyne, same part #) failed starting at the # 6 exhaust lobe. I reviewed everything from spring height, spring pressure, lash settings (spec for those cams was .026" and set accordingly). The first cam failed within hours of break-in so I wrote it off as my mistake. The second cam though ran well for approximately 4,000 miles before failing. I believe metallurgy of either the cam or lifters were to blame. I intend to run a hydraulic roller this time and from now on. It is too expensive to trust in what you cannot see or verify. Such as surface hardness depth. I always run full synthetic after break-in, which flows better than conventional oil when cold. I also store this car during winter months, so chances of bursting an oil filter should be nearly 0 even without the by-pass. Thank you again for the reassurance and I look forward to more of your excellent videos my friend. God Bless.

[@edwardmalle210]

All filters are bypass filters......they all have springs in the top....so this feature is redundant anyway .... There's also a plug inside the block on SBCs between the oil pressure port on the rear China wall and under the rear main cap....most machine shops remove this when cleaning but they don't put them back in unless they're assembling the engine. The net result is that oil never gets filtered no matter what you do....

[@cuttersperformance]

Most SBC oil filters do not have a bypass. The spring at the top pushing the element down in some filters is not a bypass

[@rossmason4434]

You should make sure your filter itself has a bypass in it .

[@racer67]

Ive been useing STP filters on my 67 impalas they seem to be doing ok🇺🇲

[@mikes.1882]

What foundry did the cast cam core come from?

[@luckyPiston]

KEEP IN MIND that the filter has a bypass (lots of filters have a short spring under the element) so yeah why have two by-passes on the motor ?

[@WilsonEywlkyutbe-s3b]

I know what I’m talking about I built a dragster that one it’s class in pro comp in Vegas 2002 Baldwin all the way. Quality

[@blokeinacloak748]

Should we also fit a gasket under the oil filter adapter? Also, is the rear main feed unfiltered oil directly from the pump?

[@cuttersperformance]

No gasket needed and no the rear main is not feed directly from the pump

[@PapawCulberson]

Lifter and cam failure during engine break in is caused by way too much zinc in the engine oil. This is a common and well known concern. Dyno shops and inexperienced "engine builders" will believe that the more zinc the better. That is the main culprit - misinformation - not the zinc itself. In my opinion engine oils already have enough zinc for engine break in. It the procedure and not the chemicals you add to the engine oil that make for a good break in. I break my Engines in with a high quality HD30 engine oil. It gets changed after one hour - then next at about 100 miles - then after a 500 mile driving break in period. Dyno time would be one hour of idle to moderate use - just get the engine up to temp and wash the inside up with the detergents in the oil. Change the engine oil - then a moderately rougher run for another hour after the engine is up to temp. Change the oil and now a typical Dyno run for break in purposes. Change the engine oil after that and run what your going to run after that. Valvoline synthetic engine oil has more than enough zinc and phosphorus - as does Valvoline racing synthetic oil as well. But yeah - that cam and lifter wear and this premature failure is caused by WAAYYY too much zinc in the engine oil.

[@patrickm.8425]

How do you put that plug in there?

[@95Sn95]

Question I'm putting together a new 88 .030 roller ready short block I'm doing some de-shrouding to my already modded gM iron heads while I have the chance, I would love to toss a roller in at the time but I suspect money will be tight at that point so I'm thinking that will have to wait and my old short block has a perfectly fine great working Howards .480/231°/108° lsa/106°ICL flat tappet cam that's been in it for years so I'll probably use it for awhile, with obviously all the lifters going to the same lobes do I need to use a "break in" cam lube or should I just oil it? I assume the cam should not even realize it's in a new engine... I've always used a zddp additive during oil changes in the old engine. Wish I had the money Howards has a bunch of nice cams designed for factory style roller lifters. I'll def do this mod, great vids there kinda a one stop shop for SBC.

[@cuttersperformance]

I got a cam break in video coming up and yes I used break in additive as well as break in oil. Video will have a few more tips and tricks I use

[@benharper1682]

your oil needed zinc! Gibbs racing makes good breakin oil! Flat Tappet cams need zinc to break in.

[@cuttersperformance]

They need ZDDP all the time

[@Trikekid84]

SMOCK SMANS!

[@amend5269]

Proper break in

[@lancecolby7792]

Hey Pisscutter! So basically you tap the housing and put the 1/4 npt plug? And also I are the lifters from summit any good im alittle worried now!

[@cuttersperformance]

Yeah, exactly. I like the Ac delco flat tappet lifters with the hardened pad. They are a bit more money but worth every penny

[@waynepatilla8763]

Bet it was a comp cam and was exhaust lobe

[@mattlanew6969]

Have you had any issues with the GM lifters (P/N:12371044) in the 010 86-95 blocks (1 pc rear main)?

[@cuttersperformance]

No issue, those lifters are good

[@BenL8257]

Is this bypass on stock filter housings or aftermarket adapters? Also, had good luck with melling lifters in the past few builds.

[@cuttersperformance]

Stock or aftermarket stock replacements have a bypass. You can get aftermarket ones with no bypass aswell

[@BenL8257]

@@cuttersperformance Thanks! Appreciate your builds and tech info! Great channel

[@eagle5720]

But the bypass have a strainer in it so nothing really going to pass through it.

[@johnwilleford7715]

So,how do you do this? Do you just screw this plug in a hole? Do you have to drill and tap the hole for the plug? What needs to happen?

[@will7its]

Tap it or get a stiffer bypass spring.

[@frederickshipp8013]

You have a bypass in the oil filter itself, so much for the 100% oil filtered HUH. Good filters have a coil spring cheap ones have a piece of flat spring steel. I prefer Wix they have a coil spring or they used to.

[@cuttersperformance]

@frederickshipp8013 Actually, most filters used on sbc don't have bypasses, unlike most modern engine filters. Some of the "Race" filters like wix and fram, have an internal bypass, but your regular sbc filters like the PH30, 51069 or B6 filters do not have an internal bypass

[@bryceschipper4701]

Would love to run roller, but for the class I run in, the rule book says no roller cam.. I've been having good luck with rhoads super lube lifters

[@patrickwendling6759]

Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸

[@waynekarjala2032]

😊

[@waynekarjala2032]

😊

[@Just1Spark]

What about the filters with built in bypass?

[@markzylstra3200]

lifter went away on me ,found out to be soft lifter or lifters .Warranty replaced everything.Oh and the bypass was blocked with pipe plug

[@rayhogan796]

How good of a filter is the pf454 ac Delco filter? I run only them on my 355 vortec build. I also put a hvhp oil pump on it thinking more is better but now I'm thinking I really don't need that much oil pressure. I get a mystery rear main leak at higher rpms (4500 - 5000 and above) I only know about the leak because the passenger side header smokes when the oil hits it. Runs very nicely and dang good power otherwise.

[@ronnielewis1862]

Like your video! Great job !

[@teagreen2220]

I’ve been seeing cam manufacturers cutting lobes for flat tappet lifters perfectly flat lately. As if it was a roller cam. This will eat the lifter because then there is no rotation. What in the world is going on these days?

[@cuttersperformance]

I've heard that but haven't seen that myself, scary though

[@larryw5429]

I take it the bypass wasn't plugged on the motor with wiped out lifter?

[@cuttersperformance]

It was plugged and thats what saved the bottom end. Often times a wiped lifter will causes major bearing damage as bypass opens allows the metal to go right past the filter into the bearings.

[@Anarchy-Is-Liberty]

If you're using the proper oil in the "freezing cold winter", your oil won't be "too thick"!! That's the whole idea behind the winter blend oils, and always has been!! If your oil is "too thick" in the winter, you are using the WRONG oil!!!

[@cameracamera1319]

Where does the plug go? In the block or in the filter adapter? What size and thread? Maybe i missed all that . Sorry

[@cuttersperformance]

All in the video my man. In the filter adapter 1/4 npt plug

[@wims58ej]

He said he made a video of it.

[@philipmazzuca2269]

Drill and tap the adapter for 1/4 and install a 1/4 pipe plug

[@cameracamera1319]

Thank you everybody.

[@glennmanchester5696]

OK so if the oil is 100 % filtered does it save all the rest of the engine from having to be taken apart and rebuilt after a cam failure like that .?

[@cuttersperformance]

@glennmanchester5696 yes exactly, you'll save the bearings

[@joequillun7790]

I've heard this plug to be beneficial on a race eng. runnin lots of oil pressure. H-O racing offered it. But on a DD street eng., not maintained very well, dirty oil is better than no oil. (Just sayin.)

[@cuttersperformance]

I highly recommend plugging it on a new rebuild but after the few two oil changes you can swap in a bypass. Personally, I run a plugged bypass on my daily, use a good filter, and change the oil on a regular interval

[@Snake.br549]

best to tap and drill tiny holes in the front oil galley plugs after you replace them behind the cam gear but you don't need to plug the bypass just keep the oil changed be sure and use zinc additive for the break-in

[@will7its]

You can also put a washer under the spring to tighten it up or they make stiffer springs. Those chinese lifters suck, the guys over revved it or it was defective. Go roller......

[@cuttersperformance]

Never a bad idea to go roller. But we even run a plugged bypass on our 900hp super stock engine that runs upward of 10k rpm

[@olivierfaucher3426]

Shmomp shcams 🤣🤣

[@kimmorrison9169]

does this apply to my BBC as well?

[@cuttersperformance]

Yes

[@donm9951]

you should pay extra for hardend flat tappd lobes

[@cuttersperformance]

Never a bad idea

[@richknudsen5781]

Been doing that since the 1960's but now all you new guys know.

[@cuttersperformance]

I learned it originally from 60+ year old mechanic but I believe it's also a old grumpy jenkins trick

[@richknudsen5781]

@@cuttersperformance I'm 68 but not grumpy, LOL.

[@9ijnht5rdx]

And the bypass in the filter?

[@cuttersperformance]

@9ijnht5rdx Most sbc filters don't have an internal bypass in them (PH6, PH13, 51069, B6 ect) No internal bypass

[@bobdavis3389]

I've never had a failure but went to a roller cam .

[@cuttersperformance]

Always the best option if the budget allows

[@born2wrench]

so how do you install the pipe plug

[@rotaxtwin]

Really annoying that you can't count on flat tappet hardware from a major manufacturer. It's not like they give the stuff away. It's almost like they've pulled money out of the production of old school hardware like the first Gen small block and either directed the efforts to newer stuff or they're just pocketing extra profit. Chances are it's the latter.

[@cuttersperformance]

Does make you wonder, sad

[@Classickoolcars]

Damn near fraud if you ask me. Especially at the price they charge. I always put my lifters together at the base. See if they rock slightly (or not!). 🤷‍♂️👍

[@robertreiman]

Most oil filters have a built-in bypass.

[@cuttersperformance]

Actually most sbc filters like the Fram PH30, wix 51069 or the Baldwin B6 all do not have internal bypasses.

[@robertreiman]

@@cuttersperformance That's good

[@rickyfulks889]

Good vid bro, no need for bypassing. LIFTER quality sucks

[@parjohansson5598]

❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@oldsrocket8456]

Lol I was on the floor laughing smock smhamms you got me with that one

[@cuttersperformance]

😄

[@oldsrocket8456]

@@cuttersperformance I made a big mistake pat I was removing my press in studs and cracked my guide boss on my 062 heads u think it’s repairable or over with now since I cracked the actual head

[@alexgo1034]

Don't agree. If you think that the pressure of opening is too low -increase it . But complete blocking is too radical. Really cold oil flows like honey and can't penetrate filter easily.

[@cuttersperformance]

Like I said in the video, I would tell anyone to run no bypass during break-in, but if they want to swap out after the first oil change, that's their choice. They can also run a filter with an internal bypass or try to add spring pressure to the stock bypass. Personally, I run no bypass, even in my shop truck. Freezing cold winter mornings and see no drop in oil pressure or damaged filters. I dont let my oil get super dirty and use quality filters