Everything About the Purcell Prusik for Climbers

[@brianrodman1033]

Thanks for the video Yann. I really like the Purcell Prussik since it could be improvised if the need arises and the slight dynamic properties it has if you fall. There is a clean aid climbing video called Clean Walls from Jeff Lowe (disc two can be found on KZbin and the uploader has permission to do so from Jeff’s widow). Disc one features Ron Olevski and he shows his preferred method of attaching himself to his ascenders, which is to use a pair of Purcell Prussik’s larks footed to the ascender, then larks footed to the harness (no carabiners to potentially cross load and potentially frees up two lockers for other uses). This was further shown to be a good option by some drop demonstrations done by the How Not To channel that illustrated how it is able to reduce the force vs a static connection.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Wow this sounds really cool! I wonder if someone can make a video to show this and send me the link!!

[@allstar2941]

This really helped, especially the thumb and pinky finger method - thanks.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

You are welcome!!

[@johngo6283]

Nice overview. Especially good trick about tying the prusik by putting your fingers together. Personally I find these too large and cumbersome for most everyday climbing, but some people like them a lot. I don’t think you mentioned one of their benefits, which is you can release them under load. That’s why some rescue type people like them.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Right! Thanks for the comment!

[@you2tooyou2too]

re 5:45 Another way to adjust this (or any prusik) with one hand, is to grab the 2 lines (tongue) of the prusik with your palm & 3 last fingers , hook your thumb over the bar (wide bite or 'trigger') of the prusik, to pull it toward your palm, forcing the turns of the prusik to loosen. You still have your index finger to guide it as you slide the prusik along the rope. Keep in mind there is a right and left hand prusik, so if at first you don't know why it doesn't work, try your other hand to loose & move the prusik.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

you2tooyou2too you2tooyou2too thanks for your idea! Also some climbers have told me they stopped using the percell because just knoking on the prusik can make it slip and make you lose height. Quite unnerving!! What do you think about this?

[@you2tooyou2too]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing They are sadly correct. However, that problem is still completely avoidable with thoughtful practice, & by fully controlling the trigger (to ensure it is snug, as you let go) and ensuring (as with all ascenders) that you are using a PP of stiffness appropriate for the climbing rope diameter.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

you2tooyou2too Thanks for your interesting insights!!

[@geopietro]

Yann, I have one but always seem to be fiddling with it. There are 4 strands dangling and was wondering if a Metolius Easy Daisy was simpler. Any thoughts how they compare? Or would you recommend a Petzl Adjustable Lanyard instead? Interested as safety tether or for jumaring but not as an anchor system. Thank you.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

As for jumaring, I would recommend the Petzl Evolv even if Petzl does not say the Evolv is safe. You could always go with a Dual Connect adjust to make it "officially safe". The Metolius is maybe not as safe as any of the Petzls but more testing would be needed... Note that I have only used the Evolv and the Metolius. And I yet to have break tested any of those!!

[@geopietro]

@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Thank you!

[@soopersooper3291]

Purcell prusik lanyard is superior to a conventional daisy imo. I use a daisy but I don't really use it as a daisy, I use it like a rabbit runner. I also use Petzl Adjust, I love it.

[@revhead]

Great explanation - thanks!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Geoff Cooper thank you!!

[@adventureswithfrodo2721]

There is an easier way to do this. But this is just parroting every other lame video.

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Please tell us what is the easier way to do this! Or point us in the right direction with a link! Thank you.