Everything You Need To Know About Climbing Skins

Having a good set of climbing skins and knowing how to use them can be the difference between your most epic day of riding and a complete suffer-fest. We'll be running you through their history, how to install them, how to use them, and everything in between. Here's Everything You Need To Know About Climbing Skins.
Intro - 00:00
History - 00:17
How To Install - 01:19
Tips and Tricks/Uphill Travel - 02:44
How To Transition - 04:59
Skin Maintenance and Storage - 06:28
Voile Hyper Glide Climbing Skins:
www.voile.com/voile-climbing-...

[@lukenelsonfilms1006]

nice

[@macmurfy2jka]

Cool

[@WildMidwest1]

I bought Voile Hyper Glide skins from a Driggs, Idaho backcountry retail store last night. I will be cutting them to my mid-fat touring skis this morning before hitting Grand Teton foothills and canyons. It’s been a big powder dump. Much disagreement exists in Telemark and other forums about best practices for waxing skins - whether to iron in wax or use a hair dryer; what temperature grade of wax; whether to apply wax unidirectionally or bidirectionally, etc. Are there special wax considerations for classic XC skiers who skin and also traditionally wax their skis? What methods exist (aside from scraping and brushing) to mitigate wax-glue chemistry and adhesion issues? [Background: I have been using Contour hybrid mix skins on my 115 mm waist Telemark skis, and another pair of Contour hybrids on my steel edged 60 mm Asnes XC skis. I applied the DPS Phantom product to my 124 mm Alchemist Lotus (setup for AT) and my 105 mm Head Kore, but I did not apply the Phantom product to my tele skis - only wax.] Please debunk wax-vs-skin myths in a future video, if you can. I am sure other people share my confusion. Thanks for another great video.

[@skiziskin]

If you hot wax your skins, they will not glop for at least 30 days of touring. If you don't hot wax them, when they do glop up in the field, it's too late to get much good out of any skin wax you put on them because they are already wet and frozen. They need to be dry when you apply skin wax --just crayon it on both with and against the plush, the plush can take it--and pass a warm iron over them to coat every fiber of the plush. Do this one or two times a season and you will still carry a chunk of skin wax with you to prove to your mates that if you need it in the field, it's too late. If you don't keep your skis tuned, waxed, scraped and brushed at regular intervals, you run the risk of having your skin glue come off on the bases of your skis.

[@johnmuirhead8944]

Hey, My skins got sticky after being stored in the off season, when i peel them off i get glue sticking to my base. Unfortunately I dont have the option to bring em in for a re-glue. What product or method do you reccommend? i've had success with different skins running an iron on parchment paper on the skins, supposed to "reset it". Any advice ? thanks!

[@voilemfg]

Hi John, When we re-glue skins, we remove the existing layer with a heat gun and metal scraper. After that, we reglue them with an iron and Pomoca glue roll. You can always give us a call or reach out at [e-mail] for more help!

[@zakaroonetwork777]

3:23 How does you Boot stay in the front of the binding? I have Marker Jester Bindings and Technica Touring Boots, what am I Missing?

[@voilemfg]

These are Dynafit ST Rotation touring bindings with a toe piece that locks into the front pins of the boot for skinning and skiing. I believe Marker Jester bindings are made just for downhill alpine riding. Hope that helps!