VW T4: Eurovan Instrument Cluster Removal

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[@anthonyjaisingh]

Mate thanks so much for making this video. I'm going to give it a try on my T4 in the next few days. ALL of my needle driven readouts including Speedo and tachometer go haywire quite regularly, and then sometimes go back to working fine again. The couple of digital readouts always seem to behave. It's been happening for a couple of years now. Basically a year or two after I started parking it out in the sun things started to go wrong. Looking forward to trying this reflow and saving myself a lot of hassles and expense. Thanks again bud.

[@EXOVCDS]

If your cluster is different (newer style)... try performing output tests first with a scan tool. Like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmernpKKo9aci9U (video should start playing T4 Eurovan cluster part at 2:50 Find someone who has VCDS to run output tests on your cluster. You can find someone in your area by using this website: www.maptive.com/ver3/VCDS_Locator Zoom in on your area.

[@anthonyjaisingh]

@@EXOVCDS Cheers for that. No my cluster is exactly the same as the one in this viseo you're working on. I'll probably tackle it next week.

[@Plumb0b123]

Really useful video. Thank you. I wanted to check the lighting bulbs as it was getting hard to read at night but it is not necessary to remove the whole assembly (as in this video). To change the bulbs you only need to remove the small screws (2) on each side (at centre) then lift out the front cover and clear plastic. This exposes the instrument and the bulbs are easily accessible. The bulbs were all working but there is a green plastic strip on the cover that acts to change the colour of the light from the bulbs - it also cuts off some of the light - and is held in place by a white plastic strip which is clipped in. I have removed that green strip and the interior light at max is considerably brighter although it is white (or cream). Fine with me as I can now read the instruments. For anyone struggling with the two screws holding the whole assembly in place removing these two little screws first makes access to them a lot easier. You really need to remove the steering wheel etc or you risk breaking the black plastic surround. Also be careful with those screws that hold the top and bottom half of the covers around the steering columns - a previous owner had broken one and so it now needs spongy padding to stop the rattling.

[@EXOVCDS]

Good tips... thank you for sharing!

[@LiamGriffin]

Do you happen to know what bulbs are required? I have one out right now and want to order a replacement before I pull the cluster out.

[@EXOVCDS]

Liam Griffin Check with these guys: www.ecstuning.com/Search/357919243b/?gclid=COvCh6mmsdACFROSfgodJa4HoA Phone or email them to see if this is the right bulb.

[@BlueFlamedKunai]

Thanks so much for posting this. I've been putting this job off for 2 years because I couldnt find info on how to do it.

[@EXOVCDS]

BlueFlamedKunai Thanks for watching... I have a better quality video that includes dash removal (for heater core replacement) that might also be worth watching! kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaPRmZKPm7KDaNE

[@jamessullivan1648]

awesome video. just finished the job and it seems the temp and gas guage work as they should. thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for sharing and thank you for watching!

[@grahamball364]

This video was a great help, Ive got a dry rudding sound on the horn contact, just needs cleaning, thanks.

[@EXOVCDS]

Careful... the contact ring can get quite sharp over time. Mind your fingers when you run them across the ring! Thank you for watching!

[@joshuaschwarz9614]

worked for me and my 1993. i was able to do it without even completely removing the circuit boards from the cluster. i just touched up the solder points near the voltage regulator. the main thing is to be careful not to overdo the solder and short out the connection. these just had crappy solder to begin with and a couple of drops fixes the problem.

[@EXOVCDS]

Joshua Schwarz thank you for sharing your DIY experience and thank you for watching!

[@sublicenseable]

Thanks! I recommend disconnecting the battery as my horn went of early morning while removing the steering wheel. Luckily my crazy neighbour is on holiday so I'm still in one piece.

[@EXOVCDS]

As long as the ignition is off... horn should not activate.

[@sam.721]

Thanks a lot... I just did it today and every things works fine now😊🙏

[@EXOVCDS]

Nice to hear that my video was of help... thank you for watching!

[@als_rc]

Hi Thomas. Having watched a few of your videos its clear you are a master at your craft. I'm a bit stuck with my VW T4 2.5tdi and hoped you could give me some direction. So, in the first instance, the glow plug light flashed on whilst driving notifying me of a problem. The oil pressure lamp then came on and the rev needle started bouncing randomly as I was driving at a steady speed. I returned home and arranged to take the van to the VW dealer the following week. In the meantime I attempted to turn on the van and it wouldn't start. I towed the van to the main dealer, the replaced the ECU ( they said it wasn't communicating with they're computers.) they also changed the starter motor and now the van runs and starts like a dream. However, the original problem still exists. I jacked the van up on axle stands, and poked about looking for bad earths, faulty wires and changed all the fuses in the cab. Still the problem persists. I took it to the main dealer and they advised me to replace the Instrument Cluster. I'm considering this procedure of re soldering the panel but before I do I'd be very grateful on any thoughts you have. Best wishes Al.

[@EXOVCDS]

Glow plug light flashed on.. as in came on & stayed on, or flashing on/off/on/off? Make sure that the charging system is ok (key ON, battery light should be ON, engine running light should be off). Check for voltage drops between alternator & battery just in case like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5a4k5mLidyBoLM Over or undercharging could cause instrument cluster issues... if charging system is ok, maybe there is an issue with the instrument cluster. What year? If it has the blue light/red needle cluster, it can be communicated with a scan tool. If it's an older cluster like in this video... checking for cracked solder joints is a good idea. I'm not a master... I'm an average Tech who has lots to learn, stuck in a maintenance shop which is preventing me from broadening my skills.

[@als_rc]

@@EXOVCDS Hi Thomas. Thanks for your reply, I wasn't notified hence late response. 2002 model. Its running great now with the reconditioned starter motor and second hand ECU which was replaced. The rev counter is still bouncing around, the unstable revs causing the oil pressure sensor to sound. I figured its just a cosmetic thing and at least I'm able to use the van daily for work. The VW Technicians identified the cluster as being the issue so Im on the hunt for a parted out one at the moment. Re stuck in a maintenance shop. Trust me your learning while earning and your incredibly competent. The automotive industry is a broad church and you can do whatever you want to.

[@EXOVCDS]

@@als_rc Does the 2.5TDI have a crankshaft position sensor? If no, then the RPM signal is taken from the alternator.... in which case it might not be a cluster issue. If there IS a crank sensor, then it probably is a cluster issue.

[@als_rc]

@@EXOVCDS very interesting. first I've heard of a crankshaft position sensor, I'll look into that. Ive had other owners via facebook mention the alternator as a potential cause of the problem too, including a bad ground issue. Thank you for your time and advice.

[@EXOVCDS]

@@als_rc A bad crank sensor (if it has one) would also cause the engine to not run right... the sensor is usually located at the front face of the engine just before the flywheel / where the transmission is mounted. If the engine runs smooth, it's not a crank sensor issue. On some TDI's I have seen the glow plug light flashing... because the brake light switch was bad. Weird... I know. Can't hurt to check if your brake lights are working. =)

[@kennethyou1954]

Big Thanks, Thomos, in my case, the temp. sensor is new, working well now without false flashing, all fuel, and others working well, except the temp. gauge needle not move, logically, in case of engine over heat one day, the engine warning light, and temp. sensor light will warn me, won't they? your input and tip greatly appreciated, Thomas!

[@EXOVCDS]

Start engine, led should flash & go out. Disconnect the yellow coolant temperature connector and touch the yellow red wire to engine ground... led should start to flash. If yes, then yes... you can rely on the LED to give you an overheat warning. You could buy & splice a sensor into one of the coolant hoses and install a gauge on the dash. encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRPefcnWNF5usfFqZOY7Y_7mueCTCvGM5qiyw&usqp=CAU

[@kennethyou1954]

@@EXOVCDS very thankful to you, Thomas, I will try it! Thanks again!

[@makjames1714]

Just adding an up to date comment that this video is still useful.

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you kindly and thank you for watching!

[@vicsanchez786]

great video, i'll attack this job tomorrow. I have a seat belt light that stays on even after the buzzer goes off. hopefully i can see something obvious. Thanks

[@paulbramley1]

Guess what I'll be doing tomorrow ..... Thanks for this :)

[@EXOVCDS]

+Paul Bramley Have fun... let me know how it goes / went.

[@paulbramley1]

All done ... Fuel gauge Bob on now temp light flashing now lol sort that another day."... Cheers for the video great post :)

[@EXOVCDS]

+Paul Bramley Thanks for the update!

[@fm39x]

the best videos..thank you from greece..

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you and "Thank You" for watching my videos!

[@mauromoraes333]

Ok Thomas.

[@EXOVCDS]

Obrigado por assistir!

[@justinunal2676]

Love all your videos, I hope you still reply to questions given. If so here's the question. I have a t4- 92' AAB engine with a old alternator fitted no W+ terminal on it. The W+ alternator terminal seem to be for newer t4s like TDI's etc can I fit a newer one on this old van? The reason I wanted to fit it is because I fitted a speedo from a t4 96' 1.9 TD ABL and would love the rev counter to operate? As my old speedo never had this on it. Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

Give it a try.... you'll need a wiring diagram to know where on the instrument cluster the signal from the alternator goes.

[@Alikanake]

Very helpful video,thank you. If I may, you can just disconnect the blue ribbon cable from the circuit board instead of removing the light bulbs, the blue foil doesn't like it much,so the less stress to it,the better :-)

[@EXOVCDS]

You may and thank you. I replace the bulbs regardless at this stage... nothing worse than putting it back in the dash and then noticing a bulb is out.

[@Alikanake]

***** Thank you :-) Mine do work,I tested them :-) BTW, I'm spending the whole afternoon on that problem, it looks like somebody worked in there before me :( I re-soldered again the joints,no success, I cleaned everything,swapped the transistor KA7810 for another one from a Vanagon, nothing.The other day, it miraculously worked for a day ,that's the only time I saw the whole cluster working so I was full of hope and decided to tackle the job. Do you know how to test these transistors? Also,I connected the circuit board to the wiring harness and I have no voltage at the joints.Middle one is for the ground. I used the multimeter to test continuity and all is cherry.I'm about to kick the whole cluster out to Mars!!

[@EXOVCDS]

If you have no power to the instrument cluster (battery light, oil light, fuel / temp gauge) check your fuses... can't recall which one right now. If it works now and then, it's definitely a solder joint / bad connection somewhere.

[@Alikanake]

***** Thanks again Thomas. Since your video is linked around the world on many forums, I'm going to put some information since I can't find a application for each wire on the T28 connector (I have the diagram but this is hebrew for me…), so I measured everything after disassembling the connector itself. Not all 28 pins have a wire in them.All wires are White but 1. I forgot to count how many wires there are,but I'm sure it's all the following ones. T28(3)Ground T28(10) has 6.2Vdc only when engine is running T28(11)Ground T28(12)12Vdc when headlight switch is ON T28(12)Ground when headlight switch is OFF T28(13)is connected to the left of the transistor via circuit board (when you look from the top of the circuit board:there is continuity).Wire goes to ground when ignition switch is OFF, I don't have a note about when ignition is ON,I probably didn't test it. T28(16)has 14Vdc only when engine is running T28(22)Ground T28(24)Ground T28(25)Ground T28(28) is a Blue wire,it has 3.2V ignition switch ON,engine OFF

[@Alikanake]

***** and you are right,since I took it apart,no more led lights working,but I didn't put back any of the switches under the steering wheel yet, in case that would matter.I'm ging to order the transistor to make sure I won't waste my time re-soldering the entire circuit board which looks good.

[@MordusdepleinairQuebec]

this is gold

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching.

[@EXOVCDS]

Slightly newer video for heater core removal... but covers instrument cluster as well. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaPRmZKPm7KDaNE

[@RandolphMaunder]

Many thanks! It made the job easy!

[@EXOVCDS]

Nice to hear that one of my videos was of help. Thank you for watching!

[@RandolphMaunder]

@@EXOVCDS I had removed one years ago and had forgotten about the 2 screws in the instrument shroud! Your video made it completely clear how to do the job!

[@ross9581]

I have one question related to the cluster for a 1997 automatic Eurovan cluster part # 7DO919860P. Mine is toasted so need it to repair or get an new one. Either a shop to repair it or a place to buy one. Thank you so much.

[@EXOVCDS]

This guy can repair clusters. He has posted several Eurovan cluster videos. Here is one of them. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJi4oGWuacaHmZosi=ATVPcVaRk6pqfyvb You can find his contact info in the "about" page of his KZbin channel.

[@KermitPoling]

Great video - question - are the LEDs (I'm assumiing) for the 1999 cluster in the same place as the bulbs you removed here?

[@EXOVCDS]

I've never had a 1999 or newer cluster out before... if both lights went out at the same time, look for a common issue. Are the other dash lights (heater panel, switches etc) working? If not, could be a bad dimmer switch?

[@KermitPoling]

+Thomas EXOVCDS thanks, yes, all the gauges and other indicators work. i had my mechanic send it off to a place that does rebuilds and were told that it's missing something inside (we bought it several months ago with a lot of miles on it). So, I'm going to wire in some alternative led lights but was trying to figure if the gauges were front lit or rear lit. I think it's probably the similar to the one in your video. the 99s have airbags so I'm hoping I can get the cluster out without removing the steering wheel. (don't want to mess with airbag systems).

[@tankypriyamunggar3966]

Very helpful video... Nice... Whether a row of a bulb the bottom of the right side might in replace? I got a problem with a lamp a gear position in a speedometer.

[@EXOVCDS]

tanky priyamunggar Take a picture of the light you want to replace and send it to [e-mail]

[@tankypriyamunggar3966]

***** OK... I have already mailed.

[@darientobias6104]

Very helpful video, my 1997 transporter with 2.4l idi Diesel is doing some funny things, the temp gauge doesn’t seem to be working and when I’m sitting still the speedo bounces all over the place and the trip mileage counter goes up as if I was moving, do you think this Is a bad speedo cable or more to do with the circuit board? Also the van is not sending power to the fuel shut off solenoid so right now it only runs if I have that solenoid hot wired. I heard the the cluster is a gateway to the ecu and I’m not able to get connected with vcds any help would be greatly appreciated

[@EXOVCDS]

Darien Tobias If the cluster has a digital odometer, then there is no speedometer cable. Faulty speed sensor or electrical interference causing issues with that circuit. Check the ecm power supply relay (109 is usually stamped on the top of the relay).

[@JethroRogers]

Most helpful video I've seen on this, thanks! The blue high beam light on my '95 van is out. Is it an led and can it be replaced? Or could it just be a connection fault?

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes, LED... you can check the connection / solder joint at the back first. I haven't had to replace one on a Eurovan, but have done so on a Vanagon. I'd imagine it to be similar. Just make sure to get the polarity correct.

[@JethroRogers]

@@EXOVCDS Super helpful, thank you. 👍

[@stevemillerrealestate2686]

I have a Eurovan 1999 I have issues with no lights in cluster and no power to radio or back 2 inside dome lights.

[@EXOVCDS]

You mean "illumination" lights for the cluster? Check your fuses in the fuse box and your headlight switch... dome lights are probably a separate issue / not related to in cluster.

[@alirialta4836]

Thanks so much for this useful video. I watched to figure out where the central lock module is located in my 98 Eurovan. Thanks to your other video, I was able to fix my central lock and it works by key in the lock but I cannot program the remote, although I believe I have a remote with correct fcc and part number for my 98. So I suspect whether or not my car came with the module for remote lock. Would you please let me know where the module is locally ? And if I don’t have it, can I by an OEM for 99-2003 eurovans and put it there? Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

I'm not sure off the top of my head... I would have to look into it. I was under the impression that only the "blue cluster" Eurovans had remote capability.

[@alirialta4836]

Thanks Thomas. What does “blue cluster” refer for Eurovans? :) I googled but couldn’t figure out

[@EXOVCDS]

@@alirialta4836 www.upfix.com/upload/iblock/27a/27a14006d15363ac847e704b39e5db27.jpg

[@pegadadoaviao]

o marcador de oleo da minha van não estar marcando, nem a velocidade

[@EXOVCDS]

pode ser um problema com o painel de instrumentos

[@charlesb.1083]

Great video. Like to know if you have any idea on how to remove the horn button on the 01-03 models.

[@EXOVCDS]

Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees and release the air bag with a screwdriver... turn the steering wheel back to center and then 90 degrees into the other direction and release the other side of the airbag. Remove airbag.

[@EXOVCDS]

Sorry... release through the slot at the back of the steering wheel.

[@JVonD]

Great vid. Thanks so much!

[@EXOVCDS]

+JVonD Thanks for watching!

[@joshyeomans8144]

Thanks for this video, I’m a t3 guy learning a t4 I just picked up. Any chance anyone knows a place to get bulbs or part number on the three 8 watt gauge cluster bulbs that connect in the printed blue strip atop the cluster, I can’t seem to source these

[@EXOVCDS]

www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/357919243B.htm?pn=357-919-243-B-INT part number 357-919-243-B

[@joshyeomans8144]

@@EXOVCDS thank you so much, I’ve been looking forever for those exact bulbs! Love your videos , keep up the awesome work !

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching!

[@shadowandpancakes]

Hi I was wondering if you could help me, my 1996 transporter fuel and temp gauge doesn’t work, do you think this will fix it

[@EXOVCDS]

Probably. Sometimes a good smack on top of the dash can get things working... which is another indicator that the solder joints need to be resoldered.

[@stevemcgowan3017]

Hi Thomas I need to change my t4 year 2000 wiper stalk it’s stuck on wont turn off .have new stalk could it be relay also faulty ?with air bag sign on steering wheel is removal same procedure as non air bag .thanks .steve

[@EXOVCDS]

You can remove the upper & lower steering column plastic trim, to get at the wiring connectors for the two stalks... you can then do some voltage checks there according to wiring diagram. Check for power going to the stalk and power leaving the stalk (at various positions)... if stalk switches / controls power as it should, then the relay might be stuck. There should be 2 mounting screws (one on either side of the airbag) at the back of the steering wheel. Once those screws are loose / out, you can lift the airbag out of the steering wheel and disconnect the electrical connection. Battery disconnected or connected... doesn't matter as long as the ignition stays off (safer to work with battery disconnected).

[@stevemcgowan3017]

Thomas EXOVCDS thanks .actually when took fuse out for wipers and put back in wipers ok now 😀they don’t have intermittent but do wash wipe

[@valentinhristov264]

Hey I know it’s old video, but I have question. I just installed new fuel gauge and it was showing full with key on. Ones I started the car the gauge dropped to zero and is no longer functional! What am I missing here?! Did the cluster just fried the new gauge?! Please help . Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

If you cycle the key off / on again (engine off), is it still dead? If yes, then yes, could have fried the gauge.

[@valentinhristov264]

@@EXOVCDS ok so here is what is happening: the gauge gous so far beyond full that the bimetal spring inside the gauge slides out of the reces for the pointer. I have 10 volts coming on one pin from instrument cluster module and checking resistance to ground on the other pin is 3 ohms , so sender is giving me only 3 ohms resistance. Du u know what the ohm range is on the sender? I couldn’t find specifications. Thank you for your response

[@EXOVCDS]

Top of my head I'm thinking 50 to 320 ohms. High resistance empty.

[@valentinhristov264]

@@EXOVCDS ok so it looks to me I need a fuel level sending unit. Is a 1995 Eurovan has un access lid for the fuel pump or I have to drop the tank? Sorry but I am having hard time finding simple information on this…Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

Remove driver seat and lift carpet. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rX-riGtmhdyaiMk

[@skylinefever]

Some Eurovans had a cluster that resembled a MKIV Jetta or B5 Passat. Is the procedure different in those cases?

[@EXOVCDS]

Skyline Fever Just the way the cluster comes out (have not had a need to pull one of those yet).

[@skylinefever]

***** Excellent, thanks for the help.

[@colinhill6287]

Hi, just wondering if you could help, I have a 93 and the clock bulb keep going out, the speed and fuel is ok, just the clock bulb, a few taps on the dashboard normal gets it lit again, loose connection but where...? Any help appreciated 👍

[@EXOVCDS]

As you know, the bulb has a "twist fit"... instead of turning it the full 90 degrees to seat it, only turn 45 degrees. I have found that the bulb sits more "under tension" that way, which maintains better contact with the circuit board / printed circuit (depending on which it is).

[@colinhill6287]

Thomas EXOVCDS Sounds a simple fix, many thanks Thomas👍

[@EXOVCDS]

Just make sure that (at 45 degrees twist) the contacts are touching the printed circuit board... you'll definitely feel the difference of how much more solid / secure the bulb sits in place.

[@HectorTheGreat1]

how do you take a needle from speedo? that's may problem. to this stage i was firuge somehow

[@EXOVCDS]

HectorTheGreat1 Carefully lift the needle over the "stop pin" and allow the needle to come to rest. At the rest position, pry up under the round area at the base of the needle. To install, line the needle up with the "rest position", push the needle back on and then move the needle tip back to the 0 position (over / past the "stop pin").

[@eurovan03]

How do you remove the airbag on a eurovan 2003 steering

[@EXOVCDS]

Similar to this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYivpnSGhN6chK8 Rotate the steering wheel 90 degrees and then pry against the retaining clip to pop out one side of the airbag. Rotate the steering wheel 90 degrees past center the other direction and pop out the other side. The service manual shows this... can be bought here: www.bentleypublishers.com/volkswagen/repair-information/vw-eurovan-92-99-repair-manual.html

[@bcisantbcisant9842]

Hello Thomas; Thanks for the video. My fuel gauge still works but my temperature gauge stays at the lowest setting? Is it still likely the Instrument Cluster that is the problem?

[@EXOVCDS]

Could still be a cluster problem... bad connection for the temp sensor circuit. I would disconnect the temperature sensor in the engine bay and "ground out" the yellow/red temperature sensor wire... then, turn the key ON and see if the needle moves. If yes, temperature sensor is bad... if no, continue with troubleshooting.

[@bcisantbcisant9842]

@@EXOVCDS I recently replaced a cracked coolant flange where the rad hose enters the block. At the same time I put in two new sensors, a blue 2-pin which Bob Bentley tells me is for Digifant fuel injection and ignition system and the other was a yellow 4-pin engine coolant temperature sensor. I assume it is the 4-pin sensor wire I should check. When I turn the key to on I see the light for the temp sensor on the instrument cluster flashes a few times then goes out -- Is that related?

[@Terryblount]

How did you know it was broken? My 02 eurovan has both temp and fuel gauges dead And cruise control And horn And passenger side window and mirror controls broken. I really miss that fuel gauge. Also the ac won't cool...but that may be a lack of coolant.

[@Terryblount]

Whoever found this defect deserves an award.

[@robtheaker6370]

Hi Thomas. All the dials on my instrument cluster stopped working at the same time. They all ended up in random positions. The LCD odometer, gear select and clock are still working. I am having difficulty finding someone to work on it. Module Master were recommended but even they are saying they may not be able to fix it due to parts, so I am willing to have a shot at removing the circuit board and checking the solders. Does this sound like the right course of action? Any advice is appreciated.

[@EXOVCDS]

Rob Theaker Not sure what you mean... can you post a video or send me a picture ([e-mail])? Key off, all needles should go to their rest position... speedometer & odometer is a mechanical connection. Solder joints on these circuit boards go bad with age. Reheating the board can fix solder joints.

[@robtheaker6370]

Thanks for the fast reply. I've emailed a photo of the dials. No key in ignition, but temp at 1/8, gas just under 1/2 tank, speedo at 3mph. and tacho at 5.5K. And no I was not doing 3mph. at 5.5K revs when it stopped. I was doing 65mph. at 2.8K revs. The only other thing I can add is that I had the oil changes for synthetic the day before at VW in Nashville. Any other thoughts are appreciated.

[@EXOVCDS]

No photo is attached to the email.

[@MsEpslon]

Any advice on where how to replace the Speedo cable???

[@EXOVCDS]

Year, make, model? One piece or 2 pice cable?

[@MsEpslon]

I have a 1992- I bought the single cable replacement, I just don’t know how/where to access it on the transmission??

[@EXOVCDS]

Sorry, I never received a notification that you replied to me. Disconnect the cable at the cluster (reach up from under the dash above the fuse box). Pull the cable & grommet from the firewall in the engine bay. Follow the cable down to a mounting bracket and disconnect it... follow the cable down further and disconnect at the transmission / trumpet housing (right side axle shaft housing)... install new cable.

[@MsEpslon]

Hey! No worries appreciate the reply at all!!! I can’t seem to follow the cable from the top, is this a job that requires getting access to the trans from underneath?? I was terrified of trying to remove it and getting debris in there

[@EXOVCDS]

It's a ways down from the top... so it's probably easier from under the vehicle. Remove the belly pan first if it has one. Either way, follow the cable to get to either end. Disconnect & reconnect as required.

[@TimothyJHoney]

Hi. How do you deal with airbags in the steering wheel?

[@EXOVCDS]

I remove it. No codes will set when disconnected & reconnected while battery is disconnected.

[@TimothyJHoney]

@@EXOVCDS Thanks. I was a little nervous of the airbag. First vehicle with one.

[@mauromoraes333]

👍👍👍🍺🍺🍺

[@mauromoraes333]

Parabéns Thomas.🍺🍺🍺