Expansion bolts: Wedge bolt vs Sleeve bolt [Climbing bolt basics]

There's a huge variety of anchor bolts available for bolting concrete, masonry and rock. So which type to use for bolting rock climbs? Here discuss the features, installation, and removal (kinda) of the most common expansion bolts used in rock climbing: wedge bolts and sleeve bolts. Sleeve bolts styles discussed are standard (hex nut), and flush head (hex bolt).
*Expansion bolts are a category of mechanical anchor.
*These are usually called wedge anchor, sleeve anchor etc, because that's the category of fastener used for anchoring things into concrete, etc. I use the term 'bolt' because 'anchor' in climbing usually refers to the double bolt belay at the top of a climb.
*Wedge bolts are aka wedge anchors, through bolts, true bolts.
*Sleeve bolts are aka dynabolts, tygabolts, and many other names.
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Cheers!
0:00 - intro
0:24 - Wedge bolt overview
3:25 - Standard sleeve bolt overview
5:02 - Flush head sleeve bolt overview
6:38 - Wedge bolt installation
10:36 - Standard sleeve bolt installation
12:04 - Flush head sleeve bolt installation
13:01 - Sleeve bolt removal
14:33 - Extra points
15:52 - Outro

[@2002mitchell]

Awesome video! The only thing I'd say is that it's good to drill the hole extra deep. This can greatly aid in removing the bolt, especially if you have to spin & pull it. Cheers!

[@MountainMullet]

Yep good advice. And easily doable with modern brushless drills

[@bobbyhutton1989]

Good work on this video. As Usual. Quite comprehensive. I also wonder why the 5 piece bolts have so many bits. The bolt you have seems like a much smarter design.

[@MountainMullet]

Thanks again mate! I assume the extra parts are to aid removal by preventing sleeve mangling. Or maybe to hold the sleeve in with a softer material so when pulling it out after undoing the bolt, it actually goes. The only bolts I've seen here with the extra plastic parts on the sleeve are the Hilti high-load bolts, like 20mm wide. In this vid I wasn't able to get the sleeve out, as happens, because it gets deformed and just wedges in there by itself. Which sucks because I remove these all the time but never when the camera's rolling

[@MountainMullet]

Also, I was going to link to one of your vids for the wedge bolt removal technique, do you have a preference? Maybe the Tahoe rebolt?

[@lionknives3]

Thank you for the video.

[@youonlyliveonce1o156]

Awesome! Thanks so much!!

[@bomogo]

Great video content!! @MountainMullet I noticed you switched drills from two years ago. Are you finding the Bosch is better/faster than the dewalt? Do you have preferable drill bits?

[@MountainMullet]

I have many drills now! I test them on my other channel. I think they're basically the same. DeWalt in general a bit faster drilling but Bosch seems a bit better made & more durable. But all the main tool companies are competitive so there's no huge differences between them (aside from Hilti. Those drills are something else)

[@itsnot1673]

Noticed the spanner break at the end have you ever tried the Bacho ratchet spanners they're great and 4 sizes in 1

[@MountainMullet]

No I haven't! Is that Bahco or a different brand? Bahco's pretty nice

[@itsnot1673]

@@MountainMullet Yes its Bahco S4RM4T 4pce is the model i have and works a treat on mechanical repairs and for repairing fences

[@GregSidberry]

What type of sleeve bolts are those?

[@MountainMullet]

Hobson brand, from Australia

[@skyelidea1594]

Promo-SM

[@justinberry3991]

Zip up your pants