Thanks for doing this!

Nice vid and testing setup Matt! 💪

Cool testing! Very interesting, thanks for doing that Matt 😃

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I got a DHR 182 some weeks ago and I tried to replicate your testing, and I can say my (cheap) testing basically confirms yours. First, I drilled on concrete (an abandoned jersey berrier) with 18 mm bit with ease. Then, for what about number of holes, here are my results: - 3 amps battery, concrete (same as above), I drilled 34 10x60 mm holes. - again 3 amps battery, I drilled 25 10x60 mm holes on granite/quarzite. I drilled vertical holes so this might have had an influence. - 5 amps battery, I drilled 48 10x60 mm holes in soft limestone + 4 other ones in "harder" limestone. I mainly concentrated on 10x60 mm holes as it is the most common type of holes for bolting with expansion bolts where I live. So, IMHO, for bottom up bolting to stay on the safe side I would count 8/9 holes per amp maximum depending on the type of rock (this was the most relevant test for me). I haven't had the chance to time the tests so far. Plan to do anyway.

Nice test, interesting to see how Chinese gear is developing. Can I ask what hydraulic puller you’re using for this?

Great video and great information

Looks like .... Do you hear about a broom for sweeping?

Do you have a NowNot2 affiliate link?

I will say I have a Ohm1 and got a Ohm2 to try. The Ohm2 was too harsh for me and my belay they lost feeling of my leading the rope and barely moved so was a much harder catch for me. Still fine. But harder.

I dont know if its relevant to your climbing channel, but the old one you can attach a lanyard, I did a paracord lanyard so I can go up ladders with it or simply hang it somewhere, its pretty handy if youre working solo.

21 because its 2.1joules the new one is 2.2 joules

Eh ZAED is the way to go. No such thing as a soft catch with the ohm.

Nice video. New subscriber here. Question: will it make a difference using dch172 in terms of speed and power compared to dcd996? Ive been usung dcd996 in drilling concrete for DIY projects. Thanks

You should try to use fast setting cement, ideal for remote locations and should be strong enough.

Ohm2 also works well on top rope belaying

What is the weight differential between you and the belayer?

I added a swivel to the ohm 1 between the device and the quick draw, works great, no need to think while on the wall.

After 1 minutes of continuous use. It will decrease speed to 75% atleast. I think it's doing some kind of temp protection.

Great analysis. Thanks for the video. Is rebolting not currently banned on Tibro?

I am considering getting it. I got a hard catch on the gen 2 ohm yesterday and it tweaked my back.

But, it's nexesesary to put the rope in the element during climbing? May it could ve pass trhour after climb?

Again one of your excellent tests! Here in Europe Bosch 4-cutter bits are slightly cheaper (I bought one recently at less than 8 euros, that is about 13 AU$ so maybe buying "cheap" bits is less convenient. Anyway I'll try to replicate your test with EU-budget bits to see if there are any differences.

Thank you for your video. I also tend to be on the right end side of the climbers' weight gaussian (!!) so Edelrid Ohm became a good friend to me in many situations. What I find tricky is lowering: very often the Ohm locks and makes it difficult (if not impossible) being lowered in moulinette. Do you have any suggestion/trick to avoid these problems?

Ah, great to see some more details on this incident - there's also a end user report on the ACAR website.

Thank you for your videos. In your opinion, how does this compare with Makita drills dhr 171/182/183 in terms of easyness of use while bolting bottom-up routes? Intended use would be mostly drilling 10 mm holes in limestone/gneiss/quarzite/granite.

Thank you for your great videos! Given the fact that, as you say, this drill is conceived for a two-hands use, do you think it would be too difficult to use it for bottom-up bolting (that is, drilling with one hand while climbing)?

2 of them in opposite directions seems good for a lower off to me. The ones I've seen are not welded at that point e.g. brand Wichard, their 10mm ones are rated for 2500kg each (2 of them and I'm totally happy)

パワーあるけど モーターの耐久性がなさそう

Speed dealer or sleeve dealer?

I WANT TO MAKE A CLIMBING WALL - MY HOUSE'S TALL SIDE IS A 5 METER WALL/ CINDER BLOCK - I WAS GIVEN 2 WEDGE BOLT STAINLESS 12 MM WITH ANCHOR HANGER -- CAN I DO THIS ?

Thanks for doing this awesome testing Matt! Making a smooth concise video on it and sharing some great feedback. I think inexpensive bits have their place, like for people that don't mind carrying a few more bits, or don't wanna spend more money on some special-sized bits they might only use a couple times. Pros and cons to things.--- One thing I do with these bits is use the older ones (with more worn-down cutters) to drill more depth of the hole, then I chase it with a fresher/newer bit to get my desired hole size; (this is with 4-cutters though).

What type of sleeve bolts are those?

Do you have any more tips for preserving drill bits? The rock I am bolting in is *extremely* hard (itabirite, it's a mix of quartzite and hematite/iron ore), to the point that I end up burning 1 or more drill bit for every hole (while in other types of rock they last dozens of holes), and take like 5-6 minutes to make a 70x10mm hole. I wonder if a stronger drill instead of a 18v hammer drill would help make better use of the drill bits in such hard rock. Other tips as well are really appreciated!

What I don't like about Bosch drilling bits is the flutes are too narrow. Especially if I am doing some sketchy shit like lead climbing and placing anchors, the drill bit gets stuck because of the dust. From my experience, drilling bits with wider flutes like Erbauer and Hikoki (my favourites) are better that Bosch, Hilti, etc.

never occurred to me that the hole width would be getting smaller .it might be why i have had trouble at times . good info ,thankyou

In my Asia Country only have the previous Bosch Gen 4 cutters , Bosch 5X Quality is so fine compared to the price , but i have burned down 2 bits because too hot 😂 i didn't cooler the bit between each holes so in the end the tip cutter dropped out the bits 😂 same for my Hilti CX4 ,

But for how long does it blow? And which charging standard?

I picked up the same unit after climbing taiwans video. Bolted a few routes already with it and im loving the little guy. Perfect little guy for cleaning holes and small amounts of dirt

2300 it starts to deform, I say it's good. (If it's 2300 kgs)

Link?

that thing is sick!

Have you used it to blow dirt and rock off holds during cleaning?

Is this strong?

They are not cheaper than affordable products from european manufacturers (at least in my country), I don't see them conquering Europe (at least for now), but on other markets it can be a good option for making climbing more accessible

Nice Video. I leave an Abonnement here. 🤟

I don't think I would enjoy how floppy they are but it's still nice to see that they do in fact hold what they claim in case I run into them in the field. Thanks for getting into the Chinese stuff.

When I was using the Ohm, I was clipping the rope into it before I stared climbing. This way, I just had to clip the Ohm into the first bolt with the rope already installed into it. I think the same can be done with the Zaed.

Loving your videos mate! Keep up the good work

Recently re-watched this one since we're in the process of sourcing sleeve anchors. So that A4-70 hex tap bolt that Hobson is using is from the Chinese manufacturer Aozhan, their symbol being 3 peaks. Also China manufactures that style of threaded-cone. Regarding the sleeve origin, I do not know, perhaps Hobson is manufacturing it themselves or having an overseas manufacture make it. Aozhan themselves do QC and testing, they're a massive manufacturer, & their reports can be requested.