Vacuum Clamping Fence for the Shaper

[@schmidtwoodworks533]

I also miss your videos.

[@franksabel]

I hope to see some new videos on your channel...! Not many KZbinrs have the kind of machinery you have. I own a Martin T73 and a Felder RL 200, and your videos have been invaluable. All the best from Norway!

[@howardappel3596]

I just found your channel, downloaded all your videos, and I hope you will continue posting. Please.

[@sincerbeaux767]

Great video Steve. I thought about the same concept for my slider/vertical fence set up. I am still using the Airtight clamps for that. John Sincerbeaux

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks John. I thought about an air clamp setup as I recall you had something similar but ending up using what I had on hand. Next time we are down your way, we'll have to visit again. Steve

[@garyfoster3076]

I hope you return to KZbin someday - I miss the quality content. I am somewhat of a tool junkie I have a festtool domino 500 - but I’ve been thinking about getting the Mafell duo or a Zeta p. I know they all do different jobs for different purposes. I love having the ability to use different joinery types. I am going to build a complete set of kitchen cabinets

[@vincentrolfe1384]

Steve, the Profil 45 shaper comes standard with the plain aluminum fence plates with 45 angle ends. I upgraded to the Aigner for safety and control reasons and noticed that my high speed-router bit spindle had suddenly become a problem due to the 3/4"-19MM increased distance from fence face to center line of the spindle. I had lost the micro control of the Felder fence action. The servo motor action of the Felder fence system is limited initially and that 3/4" gain in fence thickness then required me to use my old router table fence when using the router bits atop the high speed spindle. Stack 3pcs of 1/4" plate between the bolt-to-area and cast iron table on the back side of the shaper table and drill the 7 holes in the stack plates and get longer bolts and move the servo motor back to compensate. The trick is be sure you have the position of the tilt up fence system at the same height relative to the cast iron table and this may require you to drill 1/2" holes in the mounting plate of 3 bolts to allow for this update. Take a floor jack and a 20" long push post to hold the fence system while you install the set back steel plates. You know you are at the correct height of the new fence position when the two tightening shafts for the system take only slightly less than 1/4 turn to firm down the fence system to the cast iron table. You will need to drill two new holes and thread them into the iron table to allow for the new fence system position. Now you can use the servo fence micro adjust for those select router bits. I have some custom router bits that require this micro adjust. If you need more info just text. Vincent If you do not want to do all of this altering, just trade in the Felder for the #27 Martin shaper. Of course you will be eating Vellveta cheese sandwiches for the next 15 years. haha

[@timhalcomb4041]

Appreciate you taking the time out to share with us as really cool idea

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Tim.

[@justcruisin109]

Great idea Steve - would work well for a CNC as well if you don't have an inbuilt vacuum table - 4 movable pads would give a lot of options for medium sized parts. Cheers

[@extremewoodworker]

I agree and there are polymer vacuum pods available for such applications. Many of those have configurable size vacuum pads which would provide much greater flexibility. The pods I used (what I had on hand) require a width of at least 4" to work. Steve

[@leehaelters6182]

I can dig this! Good show, chap.

[@garyfoster3076]

Where did you go bro? Need more from the most accurate and right on woodworker I follow.

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Gary. I have been busy trying to wrap up some contract work with my day job so haven't spent much time in the shop. I don't even have the time to go to the IWF this year which is something I always look forward to. Contract wraps up in few months so I will be back. Steve

[@drmkiwi]

Good idea. Thanks Steve, cheers David.

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks David.

[@dukegraham8310]

We miss you brotha

[@Psychlist1972]

Nice. I like this idea.

[@extremewoodworker]

Thank you Pete. I think it would be more useful if I had different vacuum pods that would allow for clamping smaller pieces. Steve

[@harrisedgar]

Any chance you post the link to where to buy the parts of the vacuum clamping system? Perhaps a video on "How to". Thank you, Great video.

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Edgar, The pods are: www.vacupress.com/product-category/vacupods/ The pneumatic components are available from: www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pneumatic_Components Steve

[@harrisedgar]

Thank you so much..!!!

[@MrPatdeeee]

GOOD show Steve.

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Pat. Have you completed your sliding table attachment yet? Steve

[@MrPatdeeee]

Hi Steve, I would have had it finished, but I came down with a 70yr chronic back ache and I had to shelve it for a while. I am just now doing a little bit each day on it. I cant wait until it's finished. Incidentally, I have found (what I believe to be) a way to have what your Martin does and that is: being able to control the fence position from the outside of the slider with a wheel. I am duplicating your 8" pitch. Yes. by using 20 tooth and 80 tooth timing pulleys and a timing belt, I will be able to achieve a 2" pitch. Because my lead screw is only 1/4" pitch, if this makes sense. As the fence rides on 3 rollers and it is VERY easy to move; a 2" pitch (geared "down") will be no problem. (Note: a "Wixey" fence readout will be used to locate the fence precisely. I believe I already told you that it will have blade "height" and "tilt" readouts as well; along with remote "start" and "stop" buttons. As I said, I cant wait.) And I found a way to "lock" the fence's position as well; like your machine does. it will be NO Martin of course LOL But I am going to try to make it as good as I can do and afford, Jesus willing "and the creek don' rise"! Thanks for asking dear friend. And please keep on making these awesome videos. I get great ideas each time I watch one of them.

[@extremewoodworker]

Good deal Pat, I pray your back gets better soon. With the rains this past week here, the creek has definitely risen. Steve

[@MrPatdeeee]

Thanks Steve.

[@localele1]

Just wondering how you find the repeatability of squareness on the short crosscut fence you have used as the backup for your vacuum jig.I have a Felder slider but that short fence will not repeat for squareness for love nor money.

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Micheal, the short fence on the shaper keeps square pretty well. I previously had a full Felder combo machine and had the short fence as well but it couldn't a candle to keeping square like the outrigger.

[@localele1]

@@extremewoodworker Yes that is my experience alright.I am thinking of just building a fence using the t-slot as its reference and then a couple of adjuster bolts to dial it in.I imagine that your Fritz and Fran would repeat a bit better than the short fence supplied so something based on those principles.

[@localele1]

@@extremewoodworker kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXmWhmhuh76hodk Check out this link to a possible solution.I am waiting to hear back from my Felder mate to see if he can get me this update.

[@garyfoster3076]

Thanks

[@garyfoster3076]

Are you available to answer a question about a dowel machine? You had a Mafell and i was won3if you used it or usually the domino machine. Miss your videos

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Gary. Ask away. I primarily use the Domino for furniture and the Dowels for cabinetry. I stopped making videos for a while due to work schedule and to take a break.

[@garyfoster3076]

I don't knew how to send a private message but i wondered what your thoughts are on a Pantorouter?

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Gary. KZbin turned off the private messaging feature some time back. I have no personal experience with Pantorouter so cannot offer an opinion of it. It appears to be a less expensive erector set version of the JDS Multirouter which I have previously considered. I guess it boils down to your intended use. I used to have a Laguna slot mortiser and when the Domino came out, that machine became obsolete so I sold it at a loss. If my intended use was to just make M&T joints, I would just go for the Domino as it is much faster. If I had uses that went beyond M&T, I would probably go for the JDS Multirouter or Pantorouter depending on available funds. I would never go back to a stationary slot mortiser. Hope this helps. Steve

[@garyfoster3076]

Sorry I bothered you when you haven’t been on KZbin for for so long but you have the only accurate tool reviews I’ve seen - everybody else has a slanted view one way or the other for their own reason

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Gary, I suspended production for a couple of reasons but am thinking about whether or how to continue. I only check my channel about every 3 months now. I am done with tool reviews since higher end tools and reviews of marginal tools tend to generate too much hate. If I continue, it will probably be limited to just projects, techniques, or jigs. Steve

[@garyfoster3076]

Thanks - I do don’t understand the haters but I really appreciated your reviews. Haters also seem to have a louder voice - can’t even imagine how much time you invested in the videos.

[@EdwardKowalski]

I didn't see too much negative posting, every village has their idiot. I enjoyed the reviews, pity you folded so easily. Regards.

[@leehaelters6182]

Edward Kowalski, easy there, with the admonishment. Everybody has reasons that they are not obligated to display for you. Steve has given plenty, owes nothing.

[@MrPatdeeee]

Are you OK dear brother? Your last video was 9 months ago. I will pray that you are doing well and may Jesus give you and yours a VERY Merry Christmas.

[@extremewoodworker]

Thank you pat, we are doing fine but have been so busy I haven't had time to do videos. Merry Christmas to you as well. Steve

[@MrPatdeeee]

@@extremewoodworker Wow! So pleased you are OK dear brother.

[@markfoster2833]

Steve, what motor is in your shaper?

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Mark, the motor is a 13.5 HP (10 kw) motor and I had ordered the 10 HP (7.35 kw) motor. I think I got caught in the middle of a configuration change where Felder made the 10 HP motor standard instead of the original 7.5 HP and I had already ordered the upgrade. Fortunately, I had enough phase converter capacity to run this. Steve

[@markfoster2833]

Wow, maybe your other name is Tim Taylor. More Power :)

[@toddferguson549]

Good stuff Steve, thanks for taking the effort to share. Do you realistically see the need for that much HP...The Martin T45 Contour planer maxes out at 11KW motor and can profile an inch deep I believe. I recall you saying you might like a Martin shaper in one of your videos. There is a Martin 26 shaper on the ExFactory website...I believe it is also 13.5 hp... If i had the 3 phase I would be interested myself... Best, Todd

[@extremewoodworker]

Haha. The shaper is close to Binford blue but I am wearing Al's shirt. Steve

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Todd. I think some shops may need that much HP as the mass and depth of cut of some cutterheads (such as door and window sets) require it. I don't need that much HP for what I do but the cost for more HP is really a minor upcharge that may help with resale value later on. IMO, the T26 on ExFactory is overpriced (as is most machinery on that site) especially since it doesn't have the Aigner fence plates or the power driven lift for the power feeder. I would love to have a Martin T12, T26, or T27 shaper but I have no earthly idea where I would put it. Steve

[@mkgg9637]

Is / was your woodworking a source of income for you? I just trying to understand how someone could afford such expensive tools. Its just mind boggling