Shaper 101 Greene and Greene Finger Joint Drawers

[@stevecowart395]

Excellent dust collection!

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Steve.

[@mjfister]

Amazing tool and fence - in the hands of a skilled (and CAREFUL) craftsman. Thanks for sharing!

[@Shaka_Vibe]

I’m not sure what I’m most impressed by..... that amazing shaper, or how well the dust collection work with it!

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Joseph. The shaper is the closest machine to the shaper and it has a 6 inch drop before splitting into the two collection points so I am sure that helps a lot. Steve

[@WelshRabbit]

Steve, you are a wise man and mentor. Using a shaper is plenty scary to me -- even with a lovely Aigner fence. It reminds me of standing next to a whirling aircraft propeller. Scary or not, a shaper is a wonderful tool, and you handle it like a maestro.

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Welsh, My pucker factor with a shaper is higher than any other machine. You description of the propeller describes exactly what I felt like the first time I turned a shaper on with one of those 3 wing raised panel cutters. Steve

[@toddferguson549]

Steve I almost laughed out loud when you mentioned on your video about starting up that panel raiser cutter the first time and it sounding like a helicopter. I had the exact same reaction the first time about 30 years ago. 6 inches of steel doing 7000 rpm. You very quickly learn what inexpensive insurance a good feed is compared to a trip to the ER.

[@TheWoodCraftsman]

HI Steve. Another great video! Thanks for sharing. Scott

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Scott.

[@Larry1942Will]

Got to love Greene & Greene designs. Would have loved to see the shop where their stuff was made. My tour of the Gamble house was well worth it. The Felder fence is really nice.

[@neilw4881]

Great honest video, thanks for sharing it👍🏼

[@MrPatdeeee]

I dream of shapers like yours. Wow! Some day.

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Pat. The Format 4 is a lot of machine for the money. My dream machine is still the Martin T27 with self adjusting table rings and of course the side mounted tenoning table. Steve

[@MrPatdeeee]

I will pray that you get it Steve. I have no doubt that you will; because of your doing for others as you do. I look forward to each new "ExremeWoodworker".

[@paulebender]

Hi Steve, I like watching videos. Your attention to details make your projects really standout. I am going to upgrade my shaper and would like to know the pros and cons to the Felder Profil 45. Thank you for your time and great videos. Paul

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Green Button Man. Big pro for the 45 x-motion is the ability to repeat cuts with minimal setup time. The screen is very intuitive. The downside is that sometimes I miss the handwheel (but not very often). I also think I would go for a version without the sliding table. I have used a Martin T12 shaper and it is fine machine but is significantly more than the Felder.

[@paulebender]

@@extremewoodworker Thank you for replying. I use a powermatic pm 2700 currently and find that cutting tenons on a sled time consuming. The sliding table look easier for this particular job. The Martin also interests me, but budget constraints limit my wish list to Felder machines. Maybe a sizeable lottery win would help :-)

[@toddferguson549]

Steve, another excellent video. I really appreciate your videos especially your series on the Sliders. I am a huge fan of shapers and have up to 4 in my workshop in the past. I do think this operation is made easier with the digital height adjustment. But it could be done without that with some careful adjustment and perhaps some test cuts. I too thought about cutting the rebate first and then the fingers. I also have a Leigh D4R and would also consider that as another way to cut large finger joints. Like you the table saw would probably be my last choice. Thanks for all the great information and sharing with us.

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Todd. The operation is definitely a much faster setup with digital controls but you are absolutely correct that it can be setup equally as well with manual adjustments and measurement tools. I have the D4 jig as well and was considering purchasing the multiple mortise and tenon template for this operation but thought about trying this on the shaper before making the purchase decision. Steve

[@toddferguson549]

I have the Leigh F3 Finger Joint Template and the M&T also, but you can do some Finger Joints with the Dovetail Jig too. www.leighjigs.com/d4_box_joints_video.php The beauty of woodworking...so many ways to get the job done. I can imagine a few people out there who would probably cut the fingers by hand and chisel out the waste too. I don't have the adjustable groovers, mine are all fixed sizes but I can see the advantage of adjustable ones for many operations. I will have to look into them further. Doing the drawers it is nice to not be constrained by fixed sizes or spacings too. Todd

[@jimsynyard]

Hi Steve, great video as always! I am looking to order a felder profil 45 z. do you find that having a power sliding fence worth while or is it just a nice to have? I am also considering a F 700 which has power rise and fall but no auto fence option. Thank you.

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi James. I had upgraded to the Profile 45Z from a shaper that had manual handwheel adjustments for the fence and spindle. The real advantage of the computerized system is a significant reduction in setup time and having the ability to go back to the same setup. I note the settings on my project drawings and just enter them when I run the same project again. I could save the settings but have found it takes me less time to enter values from the drawing than to search for settings in a program database. I have never had the power drive version of the Felder so cannot answer to its usefulness. Both work but, the potential time savings is a big plus. Steve

[@jimsynyard]

@@extremewoodworker Thank you for the answer, please keep up the videos. They are very informative,valuable and much appreciated!

[@justcruisin109]

Good work Steve - that was one of the reasons I bought the shaper too. I saw you locking the fence down - I know you can but I only do that when I'm using the feeder. Cuts on the slider don't put any appreciable force on the fence so the servo motors seem to hold it well enough - also prevents me from trying to move the fence when it's locked :-) The other interesting point was how much space (tolerance) to leave between the finger - I've been using 0.1mm (4 thou) so far but different woods seem to need more or less. Hope the G&G build goes well - I'll be watching with interest - the hardest part I find is getting a consistent round-over without getting any tear-out or splintering. Cheers

[@extremewoodworker]

Good eye. You are correct that it doesn't need to be tightened for that operation but I have a mental routine at the shaper to tighten everything that moves and make sure moving parts don't touch what they are not supposed to. It must be muscle memory - I also put my seat belt on to back the car out of the garage for washing which is habit. I think the taller drawers with more fingers will quickly highlight how much space I need leave between fingers. Steve

[@toddferguson549]

I think locking things down and checking clearances is good policy. I have seen too many fences, metal ones even, and even miter gauges with the shapes of cutters forever cut into them. Certainly would not want to cut into a fine Aigner fence, but I bet it has been done. Even worse would be to cut into a hand. Ruining a workpiece is bad enough. If your gut tells you it doesn't feel safe I suggest people rethink what they are attempting.

[@kazoobmp]

I know this video was put out awhile ago, but do you think your profil 45 with x motion was a worthwhile investment? I'm considering pulling the trigger on one. Keep making!

[@extremewoodworker]

IMO, the Profile 45Z was the best value purchase of a shaper at the time (2016). Based on feedback from several viewers, it still offers a lot of bang for the buck and probably is still the best value for a machine in the computer controlled shaper category. That said, my dream machine is still the Martin T27 but the SCMI Invincible looks appealing as well but they are far more costly than my budget can handle. Steve

[@kazoobmp]

@@extremewoodworker thanks for the response. It does seem to still be the best value. I appreciate your input!

[@kenwillis7934]

excellent video, especially the small part wisdom. One question, wolud it not be better to cut the rebate first and then the finger joint after?

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Ken. I don't know if it really matters which is cut first with accurate setups. Steve

[@mjfister]

btw, looks like you massively upgraded from some of your earlier shaper videos; I love my FELDER tools as well...

[@SL1800]

Hi Steve, great video!! Just curious how the G&G project turned out? G&G is my favorite style of furniture and I normally do these drawer finger joints on my table saw, and yes you're correct it's not extremely comfortable to do it that way. Always looking for a better way to make those joints.

[@extremewoodworker]

I never started it. Got distracted doing other things.

[@craigm8884]

Is that a felder shaper?What is the model

[@extremewoodworker]

Craig, the shaper is a Format 4 Profile 45z.

[@markfoster2833]

Nice video Steve. What costs more a Felder Open House or a Shaper Class??

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Mark, if it existed I would say a Martin open house - LOL. Steve

[@WelshRabbit]

I want to trek over to Charlotte next time I'm in town and fondle a Martin T60C. If I wind up getting one, I want to insist they pay YOU a commission. Cheers.

[@markfoster2833]

When I went to my local saw blade shop to get blades for my new KF700, he asked, did you buy it already? I said yea why? Apparently there is a guy here who wants to sell his Martin for 5500.00, I said stop talking...

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks. Be sure and say hello to Carl and Al. Steve

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Mark. Interesting, I wonder what year and model. Steve

[@joshdrexler8773]

A handsaw does work on small pieces safely. A traveling fillester plane with a well sharpened blade and scoring cutter, in steady hands, slices a perfect rebate in stock, not fingers. Also I'm a bit confused about mixing a $20,000, 1500 lb. motorized & computerized three phase tilt-spindle industrial shaper (maybe more $$$ when that Aigner finger fence, insert tooling and power feed unit are included) with parallel wood handscrew clamps. Where are the pneumatic clamps? Check out some of Doucette & Wolfe's furniture making videos. Or even Mr. Chickadee (he's a trip).

[@extremewoodworker]

Josh Drexler - Like or dislike the video is fine. Your snide comments are typical of others making similar remarks in that they ALWAYS come from some internet commando who has NEVER created one iota of KZbin content. I have had more than my fill of people like you. Why don't you try putting some of your internet genius to work and create some positive KZbin content of your own rather than using your time to criticize those who do?

[@montet202]

Pretty comical comment. People want to see how the pros do it, then ehine, incessantly, when they use professional machinery. It's the process. Not the tool, that is important. Great video. Thanks!

[@missionron]

No offence but wouldnt it have been quicker and more time efficient to just use a marking gauge, dozuki & chisel? Its just a small box after all. Inguarantee you, 100%. nobody at home is using these machines and tooling. A lot of sensitivity is lost with machines.

[@extremewoodworker]

With all due respect, this is a shaper and not a dozuki 101 video and when you start cranking out many drawers for a dresser, it is much quicker to do it by machine. With respect to your statement "Inguarantee you, 100%. nobody at home is using these machines and tooling", you are incorrect. I know for a fact a number of viewers have these or similar machines (and even higher end) and tooling in their home shops.

[@HybridWoodworks]

ExtremeWoodworker I picked up the multi-use cutter today. Did you happen to buy any of the optional insert knives for yours? They aren’t cheap, so I figured I’d get some opinions before jumping all in. Thanks. -Ed

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Ed, I got the chamfer knives in addition to the 3mm roundover. Yes, they are expensive so I would only add as needed. Steve

[@missionron]

ExtremeWoodworker , you are right..its not a hand crafting video. Its a great video though. I wasn't thinking about it being set up for several drawers. I don't know why i said " I guarantee you no one at home is using these machines" how would i know? The world is a big place. Its a sweet machine...way more than ill ever need. Im in a different game. I found your video because i just got a shaper myself and im looking at how all kinds of folks use them. I personally dislike routers and for the most part bought this little Inca to use much the same way as James Krenov used his and how we used ours at Inside Passage school in Roberts Creek, B.C.

[@HybridWoodworks]

ExtremeWoodworker Thanks Steve. Im thinking of adding the Rangate thin adjustable groover 4-7.5mm, so I might tack the chamfer knives onto that order. Do you think the 25mm depth on the groover would be an issue or should I look for a 30-35mm depth in another brand? My use cases would be for furniture and cabinetry. -Ed