"F" it Friday Buick 430 Oiling Mods! I do what the factory should have on this 1st gen Big Block!

[@edsmachine93]

Nice work, good job. Take care, Ed.

[@WhiteTrashMotorsports]

Doing great Dallas, I'm working on my 500 subs to make The No Name Nationals.

[@AmericanHotRodAssociation]

Keep at it, you will get em!

[@toddmccarter45]

@@AmericanHotRodAssociation I'm just hoping Mr Rodder can get over 500, it would be a shame if he didn't get to go!

[@bossbuick8615]

just finished bolting my 350 back together fired it up and no oil to the pushrods topend ! crappy liffters i never noticed they must be for a early engine just ordered a replacement set good jod i checked before driving it !

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Boss Buick... don't take them apart or order anything just yet. I've found that the lifters are covered in a cosmoline type of material that is oil soluble. It takes a day before they start working correctly. Let them sit for a day or two and then try reprising. Also, don't forget to turn the engine over while priming to verify that all lifters have a chance to cycle through their rotation of being in the main oil galley. This normally is the case when I prime them too. If it does not work after that... it's time to tear things down and order new parts. You might want to try this option first.

[@bossbuick8615]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 thanks dallas i had spun the oil pump with a drill to prime everything but was getting no oil uptop i ran the motor great oil pressure (50psi good for a buick) but still no oil so i left it overnight started it again this morning the pushrods are spinning (thank goodness no wiped lifters and cam) but still no oil through the pushrods i think its time to pull it back apart

[@UnityMotorSportsGarage]

Dallas, how much power can those blocks make before they give issues?

[@AmericanHotRodAssociation]

The big block is only about 600hp. The small block is much better at 800-1000 hp.

[@Streetfox5.0]

Good Channel!

[@allankwiatkowski9086]

hey Mr Neighborhood,whats the name of the hilly billy bands

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Not sure... It was music I could use without a copyright issue.

[@KarmaBeABeach]

I have a 1969 buick 430 the engine is blown had about 2 inches of metal sitting in the oil pan. Could you give me a list of instructions on how to fix the oilling issues to protect myself in the future?

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

If you watch all of the Big Block oiling modifications video it show you step by step how I do it. If you need a new 430. I have this one in the video that’s being assembled now.

[@KarmaBeABeach]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 still need to get mine apart to find out but what would the price range be?

[@w41duvernay]

Mr Rodder, which Buick v8 do you prefer for performance the 430 or the 455? On Engine Master's competitiions there seem to be a lot of Buick 430 being built.

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

To each their own... but the 430 and 400 have thicker cylinder bores which I feel is more important than the flimsy 455 with all the extra cast iron removed for the sake of bore size. The 400 block retains 1/4" more material each cylinder and over the entire block, thats 2" of extra cast iron in the block... which makes for a much stronger foundation over the 455. Just my 2 cents...

[@w41duvernay]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 Can the 430 internals be swapped into a 455 block? Trying to avoid having to plug the oiling head/block on a 430 build. Planning to use Stage 2 heads from T/A performance.

[@TheSamplebridge]

@@w41duvernay yes. Bottom end wise the 430s are identical to 455s other than the pistons. From what I read. 430s are more prone to breaking the wall of the casting when drilling the suction tube. 455s already have the bigger tube so they have more meat. But it's really not that hard to plug the block. Just need a pipe plug tap and plugs

[@w41duvernay]

Can Stage 2 heads be swapped onto a Buick 430?

[@bossbuick8615]

i bought a a 68 430 riv engine and it has the same not drilled out 7 1/6 oil feed ! what do you do on the timing cover to replace the rope oil seal ?

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

TA Performance has a neoprene front seal that drives in from the rear of the timing cover. The rope seal and framing must be removed and the 3 swedge marks that retain the framing must be ground down to flush, then the seal drives right in and does not generally leak compared to the rope style seal.

[@srobinr]

Hey Ed, I got a late 71 455. I just want to align the mains holes with the bearings. And I want to open up the passage from my oil pressure sender to #1 cam bearing. Is that enough oil mods to do on a street motor that won’t see more than 500hp?

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Yes, and don’t call me Shirley.

[@srobinr]

@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 apologies Mr Rodder! I already have my cam bearings installed! As long as I blow out and clean as much as I can the shavings it should be good right!?

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

@@srobinr never try oiling mods with bearings installed, it's not worth the hassle of getting metal in the main oil passages. I always do the mods on a bare block and prefer to take it to the machine shop for cleaning after the mods. I would not even try the mods now with the bearings installed. Time best spent is completing the oil mods on the timing cover at this point. There are five separate 90 degree or greater turns in that pump and timing cover. That will make a huge improvement in oiling as well and make that 71 455 live that much longer.

[@desmonddinkins38]

Can I just bring my 430-4 to for a rebuild for my 69 Buick wildcat

[@mr.roddersneighborhood2740]

Sure, but I’m not fast. It takes a while.

[@mikehughes5175]

L

[@mikehughes5175]

Ok