Factory Five Mk4 Build Progress

[@PeterPan-gl2gz]

Also another thing or what I call a rule. Regardless of how the wiring is desired to be you should run any and all 12 volt battery feeds separate from all other wiring. Then all 5 volt sensor feeds away and completely shielded from all other wiring. Then signal and grounds as they are. On short you don't want any 12 volt power wires being anywhere close to signal feed wiring. Especially ignition wiring. That way you prevent any power feed bleeding onto or over to signal wires for the ECU. With a Holey sniper it's much easier to avoid due to containment. But with ignition systems, and fuel pump avoid any cross over wiring etc. It's just a good safe practice. And as time passes it will save you hours of diagnosis time If you have something go a miss

[@jdlsantos00]

Great video, specially the hand brake details, there is not too much info around about it. Thanks !

[@thehillbillyhangoutcigarclub1]

Looking great. I love all the attention to detail in both the work and description.

[@davidbarnett7145]

Great review 👏 you're doing a fantastic job. Construction is clean, neat and professional looking. Thanks for sharing.

[@philipmacduffie7612]

Brake lines look good. Underappreciated part of the process.

[@COBRATV427]

Great job ! 👍

[@smupro123]

Great job. looks like a good build.

[@BuildaCobra]

Looking Fantastic!

[@hanshoogendyk2203]

The water temp sensor should be located on the engine side of thermostat, otherwise you won't get a steady temp reading untill the thermostat opens

[@jackhamilton606]

I have a FF Daytona...great car to drive. You might think about rubber / noise mounting the fuel pump. I can hear mine whine and resonate on the frame before I start the car. Of course, once you start the car you only hear the Side pipes!. Also, triple check the tail light mouning... Mine came loose and It's not easy to get back there now that the car is built.

[@ChatNoir443]

So awesome

[@hanshoogendyk5783]

The rear brake pipe loops up and will always have an air lock in that area, best permanent/ least headache solution is to remake relocate the rear brake pipe downward from the master cylinder it will almost bleed itself

[@na5kar43]

Thanks Hans. Are you suggesting that once the line is at the rear of the car, that it never rises above the level of the master cylinder? It does need to travel up a bit to cross over to the passenger rear brake. I guess I can try to keep it below the MC level. let me know. Thanks

[@PeterPan-gl2gz]

You may have already run into the problem. But you may not be as bad as it looked in the video. But rule is on the steering shaft and any borgeson joints 15 degrees max. To avoid any binding,/ and or stiff spots. The joint with that little 2 bolt sandwich flange at the foot box Looked to be like 25 or 30 degrees. I'm sure by now it you have the car done you have either fixed it or it didn't give you need to.

[@TYPHIS4]

WOW

[@g-ten5879]

Great job, I went through almost the same path, built my own design(can visit my channel). You may need to readjust the angle of the emergency brake line pulleys and align them with the cables, From the view you recorded13:32 they are not tangent/aligned, and in future use, they may wear off the shield of the cables. overall you did a great job. thank you for sharing it

[@alexstar1649]

I like how did you describe all the customization steps performed, looking forward for your next videos. I am currently still researching for a best options before placing my first order with FFR, so your input would help tremendously. Question: Why did you chose 302 engine options? Looks like most of the people go for 425 or Coyote. What was your rationale? Also, 4 link suspension. Any particular reason? What about steering? Additionally, are you also planning to have AC/Heat install? Thank you in advance for your reply.

[@mikebray6667]

I'm going to need to do a body support like you built. Can you share a link to the plans you referenced or a simple sketch?

[@na5kar43]

Try this link www.mycobra.build/index.php/build-description/body-buck . Good Luck

[@teubertg1]

My problem with my brakes was I didn’t bleed the master cylinder and I had the same problem with my rear brakes

[@johnhylton7835]

What coilovers are you using we the 4 link rearend?

[@DirtyBird8086]

Did you happen to find the issue with the engine dying?

[@thegraphicstechnician5316]

Yes I did. Thanks for asking. I called Blueprint and asked for new cables for the Sniper. I installed them, and put the relay and fuse on the engine bay firewall, instead of the transmission tunnel. That solved the problem. My guess is that the wire connectors were bad, and the previous routing didn't help. Happy to say that it has not died again.

[@427HISS]

What tires are those ? Great build.

[@na5kar43]

Thanks. They are Nitto. That's what Factory Five sent me. Love the way they look.

[@427HISS]

@@na5kar43 I'll see if they carry them in 15". Doubt it but...

[@BradThePitts]

I watched this whole thing! Do you plan on and/or are you aware of the power steering "cut spring mod"? #4453

[@na5kar43]

I've never heard of it

[@BradThePitts]

@@na5kar43 Fantastic then! Your Fox/AGR power steering pump is made for a car much heavier. There’s a spring inside the pump behind the high-pressure side fitting. Cut the spring a bit and the assist from the pump is reduced. Mine’s just perfect. I used to be able to turn the wheel with a pinky and that was too much assistance. You can still run full caster, etc. with the mod. Check the forum(s) for more info. The mod was MUCH more popular when a lot of people were dropping in the (previous generation) donor 5.0’s.