Fallkniven F1 Pro vs F1 VG-10: Edge retention

In this video i'm doing a test to see which knife has better edge retention and how much better it is. Ofcourse a test like this can never scientifically prove which steel has better edge retention because there will always be a difference in edge angle and lots of other factors. However this test did give me a good indication.
Fallkniven about its pro series:
There are survival knives, and there are survival knives for the professional survival. Our models F1, S1 and A1 have provided exceptional service for more than twenty years and due to their outstanding quality and durability will continue to do so for many years to come. Nevertheless our desire to strive for continual improvement has led us to develop the new Pro Series which takes the concept of the survival knife to unimaginable heights of quality. We began developing these impressive new knives in 2010 and five years later, we’re able to offer three survival knives which set the benchmark for survival knife manufacture the world over - the Pro series. To put it simply a knife is a blade and a handle. But if this vital tool is to remain strong and stay sharp you have to add fairly decent materials. If you then claim to call a knife “professional” you take on a responsibility to the user to raise the bar above what is normal. So it is with the Pro series.
New and improved Pro series specification
Pro series of F1, S1 and A1 differs from its predecessors in the following important details:
1. The laminated VG10 steel is replaced with a laminate cobalt steel (lam. CoS) which, amongst other things, ensures a durable edge and improved edge retention.
2. The blades are consistently thicker causing an increased torsional rigidity - they will withstand even greater external forces than before.
3. The tapered tang is wider and thicker and thus significantly stronger.
4. The crossguard is made of stainless steel and permanently mounted to the tang.
5. The convex edge has been refined to improve the cutting properties.
6. The zytel sheaths are redesigned meaning they are more durable and are better suited to the Molle attachment system.
7. The knives are supplied with our most valued combination whetstone, the DC4. It offers both a diamond whetstone and a ceramic stone for field sharpening.
8. The knives are packed in shock-resistant, waterproof boxes that can be used for storage of smart phones, GPS, documents, survival gear and much more.
Understandably these knives fall into a higher price category. However, considering the unparalleled quality they are by no means over priced. A professional survival knife should be able to be relied upon in the all-weather and we really mean all weather. It should also be pleasant, safe and comfortable to handle whether it’s fine or rough work, summer heat or winter cold. We have considered everything in the design of this quite superb knife and we, therefore, offer a lifetime warranty on materials and workmanship.
PRODUCT DETAILS F1pro
Total length (mm) 217
Blade length (mm) 100
Blade thickness (mm) 5
Blade profile Convex
Tang Broad, protruding
Weight (knife) 182g
Steel Lam.CoS
Hardness (HRC) 60
Handle material Thermorun
Sheath Zytel
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Please watch: "Battle of the Ultimate Chopping Knives! Which is the Best!??"
• EXTREME Battle of the ...
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[@waldschnepfe9673]

Very interesting to compaire both knife brothers. It is not easy to find a good scientific proofed test without laboratory, but I think that gives us an indication of the different of the steels. Cheers

[@NorwegianWoods]

Thank you for the comparison :) - Martin

[@labreezy2275]

Nice little behind the scenes bit there at the end

[@Mrplacedcookie]

Thanks for doing this! would be interesting CoS vs 3G. Greetings from Sweden.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Jörgen Sandström Thank you for the comment. Sadly my best friend had the 3G version but he sold it. We both found the 3G to be a little chippy. although we now regret selling it as we know much more about knives now than back then.

[@99problemsbutafishaintone35]

Good stuff!

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

thanks a lot!

[@Wastelander13]

I would have liked to see a wood-penetration test, no batoning but just cutting into death wood! Thank you for your video!

[@poisonousbadge126]

Its been so long!

[@therealhawkeyeii7888]

You're so fast with those knives, you remind me of Bishop from Aliens. Are you sure you're not a synthetic?

[@jorgesaenz638]

What degree angle do you sharpen at

[@Mike82ARP]

I've been watching your reviews and you obviously like the Fallkniven line of knives. If you had to pick one for all-purpose use (F, S or A), which would you choose? Price not a factor in your choice. Thanks!

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Mike Masztal Hello Mike, I think I would go for the a1 pro. I'm not sure though because I don't have it yet. Next week I'll know for sure because I have already ordered mine. The fallkniven a1 was my most favourite knife as it is very allround, care-free and sturdy. The CoS steel is awesome on my F1 pro so I think the A1 pro should also surpass the regular A1.

[@Mike82ARP]

+Dutch Bushcraft Knives Thanks for the input. I was considering either the S1 Pro or the A1 Pro as both have the CoS blade steel. The extra inch or so on the A1 wouldn't make it too unwieldy.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

I have no experiences with the S1 at all thats why I couldn't chose it. However I think the S1 gives best of both worlds but also limits you in the thickness you can baton and power to chop. My regular a1 is still a very good feathersticker and can do almost all other tasks a smaller knife can. Maybe not as good as a small knife but it can also do things a small knife absolutely cant do.

[@ryanc5681]

What brand of WHETSTONES or sharpening system do u use? And grits? Please let me know with detail exactly cuz I need some Bradley and don't want to waste the money

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

hey Ryan, This is my exact line-up: - Shapton ha-no-kuromaku #120 - Shapton ha-no-kuromaku #220 - Naniwa Chosera #400 - Naniwa Chosera #1.000 - Naniwa Chosera #3.000 - Shapton ha-no-kuromaku #5.000 - Naniwa Snow White #8.000 - Shapton ha-no-kuromaku #12.000 As for stroppping I use Bark River Black compound (3.000 grit) and White compound (12.000 grit) After my 5k stone I'll only use white compound. I almost never go over 5000 for my outdoor knives. For kitchen knives I mostly go up to 8.000

[@seanb6986]

I know the regular F1’s factory edge has a micro bevel, but does the Pro version come with a micro bevel?

[@nils-ph3zs]

jes

[@krisshh1587]

I have a question where u buy these all sharping stones ???

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+gamibearlv some of them came from knivesstools.com the shapton stones came from Japan (import)

[@HUZ9k3s5w]

Nice, but you stropped the Pro more than the F1 on your trousers before you did the new papercut .

[@marxusaurelius5195]

exactly..

[@klkak5795]

If you count the cuts the, VG10 blade cut nearly twice the amount as the Pro CoS blade!

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

Hey that can't be i counted the cuts. I don't remember if I did anything in the edit like cuts.

[@babblelicious4357]

Ever had the chance to test out the CoS F1d?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Babble Licious yess certainly, check out our channel

[@JackShen]

Do you guys ever use the sandpaper on a soft backing trick to preserve the convex when sharpening your Fallknivens?

[@nils-ph3zs]

nah just use waterstones

[@JackShen]

@@nils-ph3zs I always end up with more a profile grind than a convex. To get that nice bullet shaped arch, I gotta use leather backed sandpaper, or laid on a phone book.

[@nils-ph3zs]

@@JackShen Its difficult at first. loosen up you wrist, its not that hard to learn. And its super easy once you can do it:) Maybe start with a fine stone to practice.

[@JackShen]

@@nils-ph3zs cool thanks for the advice

[@tamatoa8261]

I've tried the sandpaper method and I don't care for it. It'll get the knife sharp, but not as sharp as I like my knives. I use a whetstone to get a very sharp edge then use strops with different microns to get the death edge. Once you learn how to sharpen a convex edge properly, it's very easy. I EDC my Fallkniven F1 so I literally use it everyday at work. At night I just strop it and it's good to go.

[@liangjacob6359]

Have you guys compared cos steel with cpm 3v?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Liang Jacob we did in terms of wear resistance. Cpm3v wins but is much harder to sharpen in comparison

[@liangjacob6359]

OK, so that means cos is a better steel for survival then

[@paulie4x1]

Say Heah M&M, I almost got the F-1 to team with my A-1. But because the H-1 is similar to my 3V Skookum Bush Tool I got the H-1 to team with my A-1 and no regretsm Infact my Fallkniven A-1/H-1 is one of my Fav. Wet and Snowy Condition Combo's. Yeah a real nice piece of kit. One thing I like best. I can carry both side by side cross draw because how the Sheaths are made and fit together side by side. That's very important to me for what I like to do in the Bush and that's to Scout new Area's. I just got a very nice saw and one on order, I just got my Agawa Canyon 21 Boreal Saw in a Crazy Horse Leather Scabbard which I can simple carry it as a soulder carry. It's similar to the Bob Drustrude Bow Saw,,But I like my Agawa better. The EZ KUT WoW Folding Saw is on order and L@@Ks promising because how the teeth are ground on it. But I still love my Wicked Tough Saw. Oh, both my Wicked Tough Saw and the new WoW Folding Saw can be carried in the open possitiin which is oral Beans when setting up a new shelter. Yeah, But anyhow, I really love my A-1/H-1 Combo. Good review as usual, Thanx You.,,.

What a sin to cut cardboard with a fallkniven !!! How dare you !