Will Berryman's B12 Chemtool stop oil consumption? 😲 | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 15

[@dbfcrell8300]

I contacted Berryman's because I couldn't find B12 anywhere, including Walmazon. They sent me a case of 12 free of charge. They also corrected the sitch where Walmart was continually out of it. Berryman's Corporate rocks!

[@blackysan]

Wow that’s amazing

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

That's so cool! Thanks for sharing!

[@RogueA.I.]

I love their products.

[@ronaldburgess2884]

Had no problem getting it. I blame supply chain problems.

[@nobodynoone2500]

I bet they are just happy to know that walmart was messed up and being able to fix that! Most "supply chain problems" are just getting lost in the shuffle of everyday procurement or other bs.

[@michaelweeks6022]

I've user chemtool for over 50 years on everything from final parts prep befpre assembly of surfaces, nothing even get's close to it's cleaning power ! also good in fuel tank. put a can in a 1/4 tank and feel the difference ! Great Stuff !

[@terryharvey9815]

I would use a quart of oil every tank of gas with my 2008 Scion xB. I put two cans of Berrymans in an almost empty tank of gas and drove it two days about sixty miles and don’t use any oil anymore. 👍🏽

[@reubenmorris487]

My Dodge neon non-turbo used to burn oil and smoke at start up before using Valvoline high mileage synthetic. After using the oil for several changes the smoke stopped.

[@tallboydr2]

Im about to try this on my 09 xB, hopefully i dont ruin the engine, burning a quart every tank as well

[@williamperri3437]

I'm confused! 2 cans in an empty gas tank? Jeez was it at least a 25 gallon tank or higher? They say no moe than 1 oz per gallon and a can is 15oz.

[@theoriginaljimmykicker]

@@tallboydr2worked on mine. Using about 75% less oil.

[@tallboydr2]

@@theoriginaljimmykicker i tried it a few months ago, consumption went down like 50%, a bit better than before, but i also it burns less if i dont fill it to the full mark

[@brentgong2412]

10/28/23 My 07 Camry reached 2,385 miles and the final dipstick was 1/3 of the dipstick from the top dot. I could have gone 5k miles and not have to add oil but decided to perform a 2nd piston soak. I decided to perform a second piston soak, with the engine warmed up, turning the crank 5 revolution and continued every 6 hours. I also added 1/2 oz of transmission fluid into each cylinder and sprayed a little engine starter fluid to save the starter and it did start right away. I proceeded to run the engine at 4500 rpm for 20 minutes. As an addition I added 1 quart of diesel fuel in the engine oil and let it idle for 10 minutes and Drain and added 5w-20 Kirkland synthetic oil. Rather than going on long drives on the weekends, my daughter is driving the Camry to commutes to college and works. She is driving about 260 miles plus per week. Oil checked this morning with 1250 miles, the dipstick shows slightly below the top dot about 1/16". I would say this better than the first piston soak. I have noticed that oil reading differs from overnight(lower) rather than checking the engine after 30 minutes to 1 hour after driving as the engine is still warm. I will keep you up to date as the millage accumulates.

[@MichaelDeeringMHC]

It will be interesting to see if this holds long term.

[@buckaroobonsi555]

Why would it hold long term? The engine has a design flaw in the piston rings and piston. This is a band aid and nothing more. He will need to keep doing these sorts of things as the problem returns. When they put stents to open up a persons blood vessels it almost never lasts long term. The only way stents work long term is if the person changes their diet, takes up exercise, cuts out alcohol and smoking etc..... No mechanic in a bottle can fix a mechanical issue long term the best you can do is treat the symptoms. I deal with this on a 2007 Toyota Camry with 2AZFE. I have reversed the oil consumption but I know that it is going to come back unless I stay on top of it!!!

[@MichaelDeeringMHC]

@@buckaroobonsi555 It may have taken years for the oil rings to get gunked up, or they may have gotten gunked by lack of timely oil changes, which could be more often.

[@Thedar561]

I had an old machine before and hard starting, down on compression oil was like tar, possibly rings stuck in, I drained the oil, and filled it to the oil cap with degreaser and left for a few days, ever so often turning the engine over by hand, Drained after a week and new oil and filter, The machine is running like a clock Couldn’t believe the difference it made

[@jamesfarmer2748]

Yea i would do an oil change soon afterward . I wonder if putting tcw3 2 stroke outboad oil in the gas.i thought it was known for cleaning carbon deposits and freeing rings on top of adding lubrication to the ring.

[@steamy1225]

Looks like all cylinders are burning oil. For the misfire , Change the plugs, there is alot of carbon deposits on them . Also change The PCV valve . Also , Never remove the plugs withe engine hot. You can rip the treads out of the holes and then you're screwed. Always do it cold and by hand. Don't be so reliant on the electric ratchet . You dealing with Aluminum. Same for the bolts that hold the coils on the valve cover . I busted the treads on them just by tightening them by hand. Then the coil wont stay on very well. Like I commented on 2nd video, I have a 99 Rolla and a 2001 Rolla. They bot burn oil but the 99 is the better of the 2. The 01 has no compression on Cylinder #4 and is my parts car. Change that PCV valve.

[@derargentinier8879]

Que bueno !! Lo voy a hacer en mi Audi a5 2011 👏🏻 gracias por el video

[@MinecraftSurge]

It's too bad you did this with chemtool and not acetone, if u Google what's the best carbon dissolving chemical it says acetone. Chemtool might be mostly acetone anyway. Acetone is also good for unplugging the car. But acetone makes the oil very runny so people are super skeptical about running engine under load with acetone in it. Also it's too bad you're not doing compression tests, there are cheap gauges. U should try engine restore additive to see if it increases compression or fuel economy

[@philiprowe2147]

Try this oil, it's rated for Diesel and Gas , Chevron Delo 400 XSP Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil, 1 gal. available Wally world, its rated C4 and SN for Gas. The extra detergents in Diesel oil may help. Worth a shot vs $10 a can for Seafoam.

[@fredscheerle7592]

So in theory you could add a small amount to the fuel at fill up to get a similar result!

[@trammell446]

I know that the object of this is to clean the pistons... hence you poured the B-12 on top.. Couldn't you just pour the B-12 in the spout... and get the same results?? Because each chamber cleaned up differently

[@dollarbill8976]

Valves close now. May have improved your ring gap also. I have used kerosene, transmission fluid ,etc. Balance of enough lubrication not to damage the engine and the product you choose to remove carbon.

[@maxsinventions8913]

When I was doing this I accidentally was messing with the crankshaft too and it squirted out into my eye. I should have been wearing glasses but I got lucky and squirted at the last second. It immediately started burning the corner of my eye

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Yikes. Hopefully all is well now?? I spritzed my eye with carb cleaner not too long ago. It' burned for quite a while.

[@benbarnes6931]

thanks for making these videos. I have a Tacoma (2TR-FE) that has been burning a quart every 300 miles for a long time. Tried many different things, and was about to have the engine rebuilt when I decided to try this as my final effort. I followed your method (almost) exactly. its been about 2 weeks and almost 700 miles and I've had no noticeable oil loss, and the oil has stayed much cleaner as well. thanks again, looking forward to your update.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Great to hear, Ben! Please do keep us posted on your usage.

[@luisramos5330]

Hey Ben I also have a Tacoma at 350k miles and it burns oil also I have my b12 ready to go but have just been waiting for the right time to do this, cuz it’s my daily driver. Out of curiosity how much b12 did you use per cylinder? I know that Berrymans recommended more b12 in V shaped engines. Also did you drive it around with the b12 in the oil or do an oil change immediately? I know some people let it drain and add more oil. I know Kilmer has recommended to be careful running vvti engines with oil additives due to clogging the solenoids and filters. Thanks for your input!

[@benbarnes6931]

@@luisramos5330 sorry for the late response...I split the can evenly, so maybe about 4 oz per cylinder, then added a little bit more after it'd drain/evaporate. I changed the oil immediately after to be careful, did the 20 miles at high rpm's, then changed the oil again. I've driven about 5000 miles and have had no noticeable oil loss, so I'm pretty impressed with the results.

[@ScottoGrotto]

@@benbarnes6931wow, great results! Thanks for a thorough video on this procedure! Will try this on our 2005 Mazda 3 sport soon. Was kind of hoping to see a scope of the cylinders again after oil seems to have stopped bypassing the rings. Has your oil stayed cleaner longer? Our Mazda’s oil gets dirty quickly I think from blow by on the #1 cyl that seems to have the biggest oil bypass of the rings issue. Thanks!

[@edwardmulder3777]

Awesome

[@TheCarnager]

With one cylinder being super clean it usually means some antifreeze is leaking in through the head gasket and it gets steam cleaned.

[@domchessh4604]

nice catch

[@davidarnold6647]

Not all the time sometimes it just means that one cylinder isn't burning oil at all

[@stefanlynch3210]

​@@davidarnold6647carbon deposits from fuel suggest otherwise.

[@scottp2462]

No that one cylinder was too clean. Even an engine that doesn’t burn oil will have carbon deposits on the top of the piston. It’s a bad head gasket when a cylinder and piston are that clean on an engine with any appreciable mileage.

[@randylenart9674]

Ore, it's just extra clean, lol 😂

[@TheWwong]

Great video! I hope you have solved your problem. I noticed that most of the liquid (oil) was pooling to the back of the pistons. Maybe the next treatment could include jacking up the rear of the car to help level the pistons before adding the B12. Thanks for posting.

[@daveevans5291]

The experiment likely unstuck the oil control rings and allowed them to expand and do their job. The hint may have been the increased friction you felt when initially turning the engine over by hand. You didn't make a big insurance nightmare of the broken taillight. Thanks for being such a good human.

[@rudygeorgiamulesandcountry1594]

09/30/2023 : I recently purchased a well maintained,, one owner '06 T0Y0TA Avalon with 107K on it and the first time running it through the "touchless" car wash it did $ 3,300.oo dollars damage to the paint & body down both sides of the car. The only thing supposed to touch the car body is water. I got dents and divets. There WAS an insurance claim.

[@pinonnut]

What part of oil soak doesn’t he understand? He wasted all the chemical is 5 minutes he can crank it the next day… he had so many great chemicals to fix this thing… but he won’t let it soak…..

[@pcguy13x]

the fact that the other guy instantly venmo'd him the money shows how well of a guy the other person was too. good job

[@Cokie907]

Chemtool is great stuff. Used it in a 5.0 EFI Fox Body for over 30 years. Kept my TB and injectors wicked clean. That motor got me to almost 350,000 miles AND IT STILL RUNS!

[@nathanlopez5667]

I have a 1988 mint condition LX 5.0 Fox body I once put this stuff in my oil before an oil change but all I did was drive it there after putting it in would you recommend driving it longer with that stuff in the crankcase I was thinking about it but I didn't want to damage anything because this stuff is just so good

[@stalbertjocelyn]

Hi Dave, my I suggest checking your PCV and maybe adding a catch can to verify if the engine is not ingesting oil trough the intake. If the rings are stuck it may cause too much blowby. Good luck.

[@thecryptobeard]

Awesome video Dave, I would've hit those cylinders with some compressed air to remove some of those carbon particles, before starting but other than that I like your method.

[@bmcc12]

An old mechanic told me to put a quart of kerosene in the oil and drive it around for a while. He was old at the time, and I was about 16 years old, and now am 75, so you can tell that his knowledge was very old. My old junker had a 292 v8, and the return passages in the heads were clogged, making it a true smoker. I did it, and the next day, when I took off the valve covers, I had a super clean head! I drove that clunker for another five years or so, and it never burned oil again.

[@benjamincresswell3713]

292 Ford was actually a pretty good V8. We used to call it a Y block. It bolted our 57 Fairlane w/ 3 on the tree around pretty good considering it weighted more than 4,000Lbs. Pulled a utility trailer real good, got decent gas mileage around 17mpg and lasted a long time. (That took me back.)

[@enermaxstephens1051]

Did you need to replace a liter of oil with kerosene? Or did you just top off the oil to the normal required level, and then add a quart of kerosene?

[@bmcc12]

@@enermaxstephens1051 i waited until it was a quart low. My car was a very rotted 1958 Ford, and that engine was not at all computer controlled. I don’t think I will be doing this on my 2017 Ford Expedition for fear of blowing the whole thing up. I would not hesitate to do this on any non computer cars though.

[@enermaxstephens1051]

@@bmcc12 I'll probably try the similar berryman's method on my 1987 Silverado. It's the first year of the computer, so it will be less computer controlled than newer vehicles. It burns oil too so I figured it would be worth a shot.

[@bmcc12]

@@enermaxstephens1051 that sounds like a plan. I’m not certain that adding kerosene will destroy the newer engines, but why risk it. I will ask you to let me know if it smells like kerosene, because, as a skeptic, I fear that it might BE kerosene! In my case, I was poor, the thing was a HUGE smoker, so I couldn’t lose! Best of luck

[@sethat8e]

it would be interesting to see if this changed compression.

[@hotrodray6802]

Had too. It unstuck the rings allowing them to expand.

[@mr.espeedshop4839]

Compression numbers can be wildly skewed by the oil in the combustion chamber wetting & sealing the rings during cranking. I've seen it on new builds that the rings weren't seating. Burned oil like mad but cranking compression was >200psi

[@musclecarsrt2324]

I can tell your not a mechanic! I use to do this on Chevy V8's because of carbon knock. First of all add the cleaner and do not rotate the engine then after a over night soak with the coils power disconnected use a shop towel to cover the engine and then crank it over with no spark plugs to purge the carbon from the cylinders then ( CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL & FILTER ) before driving it because all of that chemical has leaked past the piston rings and is now in the crank case destroying the bearings.

[@naruttaanime9471]

Do you recommend marvel mystery oil and acetone mixed together to use as a powerful cleaner to clean and release all the gummed up rings?

[@musclecarsrt2324]

I would not use acetone nor mix it, it may cause a toxic chemical or cause damage to the piston ring or cylinders. Stick to the pre-mixed stuff even thought it may cost more.

[@gmstudent93]

Yessir the curse of high efficiency low tension rings

[@RMHSL42]

Fantastic video. My 2012 Audi Q5 2.0L turbo was burning 1 quart of syn 5w-30 oil every 400 miles and the vehicle only had 65k miles on it! Had a shop check the turbo and that wasn't the problem. The fix was similar to yours... and due entirely to your video: Process: Removed spark plugs and drained oil, added B12 to each cylinder, let it sit for a day (and frequently topped off), boroscoped (plenty of carbon on the piston head and could see oil on the cylinder walls at first), hand turned the engine 90 degrees, repeated the process once a day over a 4 day period. Drained the engine of B12 and replaced with fresh oil and filter. B12 fluid was jet black. Drove the vehicle 25 miles on fresh oil. Smoke was incredible. I'm sure folks thought the car was on fire! Drained and replaced the oil again and replaced the filter. Yup, again oil was jet black. End result: The car now has over 3500 miles on it since the second flush (3rd fill) and it's used less than 1/2 a quart of oil. Fantastic. Cost from beginning to end: One gallon of B12, 3 oil changes (original + 2 more) and 3 filters (original filter + 2more). Cheap and very effective fix. Piston heads clean and apparently so are the ports on the bottom scraper ring that were likely causing the problem. Thanks again!!👍👍👌

[@Charliebrown-sq9vv]

Just replace the oil separator on top of the valve cover .

[@Mr_Meowingtons]

Berryman giving it the old italian tune up! VGG

[@jlbrown2622]

Old mechanics have been using B12 chemtool for years, on a hot soak, for just such problems. Best stuff out there.

[@rey3468]

I think the next logical step could be getting an oil analysis to see if you’re getting any metal in the oil after doing that treatment. That would tell if doing stuff like this is truly viable.

[@ncscientist]

Always going to be metal in the oil. Analysis before and after would make sense, but wast of time on a car that old. Do B12.

[@Bushy556]

Can’t wait for some longer term results.

[@dbzownz12345]

Been about a week now, wonder how much it's gone down by. Wonder if he's gone through another tank of gas for an update. Bet he's going to make a small clip updating on each tank refill for a follow up video and make a small compilation or something.

[@ScottOstr]

I wonder if he'll start using an oil additive going forward to prevent carbon build up. And if he does which kind he'll use.

[@rhchannel4768]

Me too!

[@markmills344]

I did this on a 1.6 Kia engine. Loosely thread the sparkplugs back in, to stop foreign contamination and evaporation. Don't start the engine with the oil contaminated with Berryman's - it puts the bearings at risk. Dump the oil and change the filter before starting. Fog the cylinders with light machine oil before putting the sparkplugs back in. The engine doesn't want to start because the cylinders are dry, causing a loss of compression. This resolved the oil consumption issues in the Kia.

[@JshMusician]

What do you mean by "fog" the cylinders?

[@ATX45]

Those are great tips. I watched this video because I’m working on a 1.6L Kia. Thanks for adding that info.

[@busybodyblake4050]

@@JshMusician mist

[@stretch8390]

@@busybodyblake4050 how to achieve this with oil?

[@busybodyblake4050]

@@stretch8390a clean spray bottle and light machine oil

[@pedroalicea2720]

I’ve used Berryman to clean the egr passages on a Honda Accord v6 and never had issues with it, great stuff

[@Lolyoufailman]

Kia and Hyundai have a service procedure similar to that where they inject the cleaning solvent into the spark plug holes let it soak and then pressurize it with a cylinder leak down tester like device to pressurize the solvent and get it into the piston rings. You could try something similar to that with a cylinder leak down tester and berryman's b12 chem tool.

[@keithfoco]

I'm a Kia tech, it really works. Fixes 99% of them. We use valvoline intake cleaner.

[@jasonlee7129]

This is exactly the thread comment I was looking for!! Short story - I own a 2012 Veloster that I bought when it was at 68k back in 2018. The engine crapped out on New Year's Day 2022 at 115,775k. I was told the valves had chunks of carbon built up on them which is why it would not run. I paid $800 for a media blast to clear it out, which did the trick, but since then it has been burning oil like witches in Salem and blowing P0420 codes like a crack addict looking to score their next $25 rock.... It has been exhausting to check my oil daily, and run my car on life support since NYE. I am totally fed up with it. I just ordered 4 cans of B12 from Amazon. This is the last thing I'm going to try on my own before taking it into the dealership to get bent over for the $700 for the pressurized solvent cleaning you've mentioned. I am not ready financially to purchase a new car yet, but I will soon if this doesn't work. Prior to this car, I've only ever owned cars that were pre-2002, and I've never ever had an issue with this sort of thing - No one told me I had to spray some cleaner into it every other oil change bc it has a damned GDI engine!!! (Never gonna buy another car with this set up again, if I can help it!) All the money I've saved on fuel efficiency over the years has been spent now on missed days at work, CataClean, engine restorers, and a $10 bottle of oil every 300 miles! I'll post again after trying this method this weekend. After I soak the pistons overnight and hand crank the engine, I'm going to drive it from my place over to the Rapid Oil Change and ask them to do an engine flush before refilling it with new synthetic oil. Glad I have a motorcycle to get around on in the meantime!

[@gregorymalchuk272]

​@@keithfocoIs it detergent based? Or does it smell like acetone/nail polish remover?

[@keithfoco]

@gregorymalchuk272 the valvoline intake cleaner smells like acetone and bubblegum. The chemical we get from Kia is unique smelling. Not sure what it is. They work about the same.

[@brucepayne3596]

​@keithfoco does it really work? Hyundai wants $700 to do this to my wife's car which is burning 9-11 quarts of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. I'm burning up the spark plugs every 20,000 miles and I've gone through 2 catalytic converters on this car. It has 167,000 miles on it and started doing it at around 110,000 miles. Hyundai will do nothing to help me. Also, if this works how long have you seen it last? Their service manager told me I would still burn a quart of oil between oil changes but couldn't tell me if how long the procedure lasts. Thanks.

[@BrianGiacobbi-ii4ws]

Hi Dave, Ive been watching this series primarily because my daughter has a 2012 Audi A4 2.0T. Notorius for stuck piston rings. The car was burning through a quart of oil every 360 miles. About 4 weeks ago I did a 3 day piston soak similar to what you have been doing. I used Berryman's "Professional" Chem Dip. The car has now been driven 800 miles and has not burned a drop of oil. I am extremely surprised at the results and thinking the problem may be fully fixed. If your still having issues with the Toyota give the Berryman's Professional Chem Dip a try.

[@arne6787]

Your first test run oil had so much berrymans in it, which of course burned off. Hence the huge loss of oil. Later new oil, no loss.

[@elie4022]

I have the same car A4 2012 2.0 and burning a quart per ~350. Can’t wait to try this! You just gave me more hope, because I tried other fixes in the past and none worked!

[@jonasthemovie]

I would have let the B12 soak without turning the engine over the first time, observing if the levels drop. Then turning it over with more B12. Finally putting some oil into the cylinders, turning the engine over, before starting it the first time with all new oil. The B12 did indeed wash the cylinder walls dry.

[@deanhil3978]

My dad was GM line mechanic for years. He would often say, "B12 ought to be good to drink, because it's good for everything else!"

[@Maddoktor2]

Great video, Ben! Nothing beats B-12! My classic '89 Toyota Camry sat for the last 4 months through the winter waiting for its new Collector's Plate to arrive, and when I finally started it back up, it was running rough as all getout with carbon poofing out of the exhaust pipe every time it missed and stuttered. The car had just under 1/4 tank of gas out of the 15.9 gallons it can hold in it, so it was the perfect time to head on down to O'Reilly's to grab the last 3 cans of Berryman's on their shelf (which was exactly how many I needed for the trick I was about to pull off). Total cost: 20 bucks. Here's what happened: O'Reilly's is 2 blocks from our home. My plan was to go there first, grab the B-12 I'd need to do the job, then continue up HWY 99 at a steady 45 MPH to get the shopping done. 2 cans went into the tank immediately, the rear bumper was bounced for around a minute or so to get it mixed in thoroughly with the 3[ish] gallons left in the tank, and we were on our way. Naturally, it ran like complete crap missing and stuttering and farting carbon for most of the 3 miles it took to get there (I could see the poofs of black smoke in the rearview mirror), but 2 blocks from the store it started to even out some. After we finished shopping and headed back home, it surged a little at first then smoothed right out and ran like a champ. I plan to run it like this until the fuel warning light pops on, at which point I'll add the last can of Chemtool and top the tank off. After that, it'll be good to go again! =D

[@docmcgee3483]

Dude, I'm using a 89 v6 camry as a daily driver and just had it parked 2 months. I'm going to try this today. Thanks!

[@nateb8245]

Before I even watch the video - I admire your persistence! Thought you gave up on a chemical cure?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I think this one will surprise a few people ;-)

[@bobbyshaw6831]

I did the same thing on a scion 2.4 it fixed it. I did it with the engine hot and let it soak until it cooled down. Treated it twice in one day. 4 hour soak each time from full hot. Changed the oil no more oil consumption.

[@blackysan]

Great testimony 👍🏻

[@edwardmulder3777]

Wow that was a great vid, and it cleaned up ur engine. Berrymans needs to comp u for all this. This is an excellent promotional video for them. Plus Derek ,Vicegrip Garage is also promoting Berrymans. No wonder there's a supply problem, lol

[@GeekBoyMN]

A few years ago I had a 1996 Ranger pickup with 200K miles on the 2.3L 4cyl and it burned oil but had no leaks. Never saw smoke but I could smell it and I was putting a quart of oil in it every 1000 miles. After doing my first oil change it used another quart after 1000 miles, so I put in a can of Rislone smoke stop and topped off the oil level. After that it barely used half a quart by the time I was changing oil again at 4000 miles. Sadly it was so rusted out after being in Minnesota all its life I had to scrap it.

[@straightupautomotive]

B-12 is good stuff. You can also use it to wipe the yellow off of headlights. Caution: one pass only using a blue paper shop towel saturated with B-12. Follow up with some Meguires plastic polish to seal it up. Works like a champ on most headlights.

[@04dram04]

No, headlights should be wet sanded and polished. Cheap, easy, and correct way to do it.

[@kiddipiddi]

@@04dram04 Nope, we´re here for the magic.

[@9ZERO6]

I am preparing to do this on my 2010 Toyota Rav4 with the 2AR FE (notorious for stuck oil rings due to tiny drain holes on the oil rings) with 185k on it. I bought it used a few months ago and it gulps oil down to the tune of 1 quart in 250 to 300 miles. I am excited to see the results! Great video!

[@orlandofigueroa100]

Please update us with results

[@emailjwr]

How did it go?

[@radleybradford1356]

Curious here as well!

[@radleybradford1356]

And are you absolutely certain it's the 2AR in there and not the AZ?

[@bob123281]

Yo I have the 2ARFE I burn a quart about every 800 miles. I’m thinking about doing this.

[@deanb949]

Berryman B12 carb cleaner and Chemtool bulk soak were the only products we used for carburetor service and rebuild throughout the 80s well into the 90s. Nothing else cleaned absolutely as well.

[@dbfcrell8300]

The key to using B12 as a gas additive and save money while doing good for your engine is to use inexpensive gasoline and a can of B12 as the additive cleaning package every other tank to once a month. Using it every tank is not necessary unless your engine has some specific issue you're trying to fix. Using B12 in this way is how to save money over buying high priced decent gas that has a pretty good additive package (such as Shell). B12 is still a better additive than Shell's Nitrogen additive package as B12 is a dedicated cleaner that's proven, even more so than Mystery oil Lucas and SeaWeed. FUN FACT; B12 is one of the few gasoline additives that actually ignites when flame is put to it. The rest put the flame out.

[@MindsMouth]

I use B12 followed by Lucas Top end additive before every oil change. Cleans it really good

[@andyhaw6539]

This worked perfectly for me on a 2006 Rav4 with the 2AZ-FE engine 118k miles Historically this engine used about 1 Qt in around 300-400 miles since about 90k miles, last year I followed the same process as below but used seafoam (per one of your videos too) instead of B12, this gave me 500-600 miles per 1 Qt which was a good improvement. I modified your process slightly by adding Liqui Moly 2037 Engine Flush to my oil prior to changing, ran for 15 minutes, let the engine cool then added the B12 to the cylinder for an overnight soak, next day flushed the oil with cheap oil, then drained and refilled with Liqui Moly 20438 - Molygen SAE 0W-20. its been 600 miles with zero oil consumption. One word of warning using the Berryman B-12 Chemtool, I've read of people running their engine with the B12 in the oil and it destroying the bearings, with this in mind I did not run my engine after the overnight soak, just drained and flushed, so I cant confirm this issue, but for me it was not worth the risk. Thank you so much DIY Dave, your demos and ideas have fixed my engine so much so that I may not need to top up the oil until the next change in 6k miles.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Glad to hear it, Andy ... and if you would, let us know how many miles you get before you need to add -- if you need to add at all :-)

[@awaisiqbal8934]

I don't recommend to drive the car after adding any strong cleaning additives in the engine. One can fast idle (1k-2k rpm), repeat the process and change the dose according to the severity of issue

[@MrTIGERH1752]

I have done the same thing many times with my customers vehicles that failed the state required smog test. It has worked every time. I have no idea how much oil consumption has changed, since I never see most of these customers again. From what I can tell, the oil control rings just get gummed up, and fail to work properly. This condition is mainly found with old ladies who drive very slowly around town, and never run on the freeway for very long. I usually just send the Barryman's in as a top engine cleaner, as it is quicker in commercial operation. I have rarely done a full soak, and when I did, I relubricated the upper cylinder with engine oil before starting the engine. I thought you might have hurt the cylinders with a dry start, however, after seeing your after-actin shots, I can clearly see a beautiful cross hatch pattern!!! Most Excellent!!! From what I can see of your oil pattern on the piston heads, I would say that you need some valve stem seals, or perhaps new valve guides, when doing your next valve job. I think your bottom end is good to go!!! Try using some ATF in the engine oil, 500 miles before your next oil change. ATF also cleans piston rings, as ATF has lots of detergents that help removing such things. ATF also makes a great engine flush, but I always fear flushing an unfamiliar engine, as the ATF treatment removes a lot of internal engine gunk and might plug the oil intake screen to the oil pump. That's why I recommend using ATF to top off before the next oil change, as you use less than a quart, and change it before too many miles have accumulated. Proper oil change intervals never require flushes!!! If I slip and go beyond 5,000 miles, the next oil change is done early, at about 2,500 miles, to insure maximum cleaning action from the fresh oil change. I have never let any engine run past 10,000 miles!!! I don't care what the oil or engine manufacturer says!!! I can afford oil and filter, every 5K miles, but an engine rebuild is going to be a bit much for me, at my age, So I take care of basic maintenance, and don't have issues!!! My 2002 Tacoma has 165,000 miles, and still has 170 PSI per cylinder with 5% max cylinder leak down. So, I think good maintenance pays!!! Now if I could just get my IAC's (Idle Air Control) to last that long, as I am on my second one @ $245.00 dollars for an OEM part!!! The only real complaint I have on the 2.4L engine. Good work on your test. A good test is worth 10,000 expert opinions!!! LOL!!! Tim

[@carlstephens1532]

I had an S10.PICKUP that I put in a 350 with a automatic in it , as a service truck the 4th engine got almost 600 000 miles on it when I removed it to freshen it up. So I took it all apart and took all the pieces to my racing machine shop , everything was within spec and they freaked out on how clean it was , I took it home and freshened it up as planned. It ended up on the drag strip and it won king of the track and king of the hill titles , I used Mobil one and wix filters and oil changes at 20,000miles or when the first quart is used, my current trucks have almost 400,000 miles and I've owned it 23years now the other has 3oo ooo ,I've had it 10yrs now I do the same oil changes with Mobil one and wix.

[@redlywaxer]

The area of the piston rings and grooves is one of the most challenging parts that a motor oil's formula must protect. This engine with low tension piston rings combined with limited or very small holes in the piston oil control ring grooves or "ring lands" creates a challenge to average oils. To keep the piston rings free and the oil return holes open behind the oil control rings, an oil of high or highest quality is what is needed. First off, a synthetic oil can deal with these challenges better due to better resistance to highest temps in this piston area near the combustion chamber. But there are all levels of quality in synthetics. Mobil 1's best EP oils help here as do Castrol's best Extended Performance synthetics. If you really want the best protection, consider Amsoil's best Signature Series oils. Had your engine been run on this oil it's whole life, even at 15,000 mile oil change intervals or longer, you would not be trying to lower oil consumption on this engine. I know this with personal experience. No I am not an Amsoil Dealer, but I have been impressed with their product performance over the years.

[@frankmc2602]

I have a Volvo T6 Polestar that burns about one quart per thousand miles with 90,000 miles on the odometer. This issue is not a secret to Volvo owners. It has been maintained at the dealer since it was brand new, with no oil change exceeding 5,000 miles. The dealer only uses Castrol Synthetic. I am evaluating whether to try the B12 treatment as done here, as there should not be any reason for this engine to be burning oil except for low quality rings when it was built.

[@blackysan]

@@frankmc2602 did u change the oil every 6 months? Or every 5000 miles? Oil needs to be change every 6 months or twice a year. Rather u reach 5000 miles or not, but for some people only drive 5000 miles a year so they stick with the 5000 miles rule, change it when it reach 5000 miles but never realize it’s been a year old that 5000 miles oil was in your engine collecting fine deposits and particulates that can ruin and clog your oil ring and holes. Your car burns oil because manufacturers went to low tension rings that created less friction for efficiency years ago and extended oil change interval over 6 months to 8 months or 1 year. if u keep the oil in your engine for too long, let’s say over 6 months, nothing high quality oil can help u. High end quality oils like amsoil or redline, Royal purple has higher than average grade detergent additives and high level of ZDDP contents in them. Which translates to clean so well and protect so well…BUT since their oil clean so well, it ended up a lot of deposits from oil combustion vapor in them, thus they trends to be becoming black contaminated really fast. This will also clog the oil filter faster than normal as well. The correct way to extended oil change interval was change oil filter every 3000 miles rather u use high end oil filter or not. 3k is the maximum life a any oil filter. Then u can extend the oil change to 8k, or 10k but change the oil filter every 3k to keep deposits out of your engine oil. (I don’t recommended because I don’t believe in extended oil change interval anymore) R u sure your dearship using Castrol synthetic for oil change? Did u see them put in the oil with your own eyes? I asked because I know dealership claimed to use certain oils but in fact, they use the cheapest oil they can find for servicing your car then charge u the cost of the oil they claimed they will be using. It’s a known practice thru out dealerships that the techs and mechanics will always end up with piles of FREE oils left over in the shop for themselves because customers paid for them but it’s not needed for their oil change becuase it’s never use. Also drive your car hard at times help burn off deposits in the piston ring as well. People who track their car will always have a healthy engine than people who just drive their car normally and don’t rev the rpm pass 4000. Because gasoline is a VERY VERY good cleaner itself. (It’s strong enough to strip off paint and rust) so it’s a good carbon cleaner. When u drive at high rpm, u put your foot down the gas pedal, injector will inject MORE gasoline into the combustion chamber and high rpm means piston travel up an down at high speed which creates higher than normal HEAT. So high amount of gasoline meets high mount of heat and speeds = bye bye carbon buildup.

[@peterrudy9207]

This why I always used an engine flush before changing my oil , Amsoil or Liqui-Moly . Now I have tried BG EPR twice and for the third and last time soon . Then back to Amsoil or Liqui-Moly .

[@thomaskutches2613]

I watched 6 of the steps last night and was VERY curious as to how this was going to turn out and BAM, new upload today. Great series and I am sure will help many people with this issue for years to come. Well done and documented.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the kind comment, Thomas! ... This one really surprised me.

[@PaulDowns-fi1vt]

My Volvo S60 uses 1 lt of oil every 280 miles...I will try this before replacing pistons etc.

[@Glenn_123]

Dave - I know you will but please keep us posted. This is amazing...As you know I have been following this series since the start! This would be amazing if it continues to work. Cant wait for an update! THANK YOU SO MUCH for doing this.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Your enthusiasm is appreciated!

[@WARXion]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY +1, I have an MR2 with a 3SGE and it drinks 1 liter every 1,500 kilometers. I'm so hyped that you have an actual good result finally! Can't wait for the next update.

[@semmark804]

I know it's a year later but dollar general has it

[@Glenn_123]

@@semmark804 Thanks this is good to know.

[@benjamincresswell3713]

Dave, I have never seen that much oil on the top of a piston. I've rebuilt some pretty bad smokers, but never ever took one apart with liquid sitting on any piston. There wasn't even that much oil on the rocker arms. I doubt if heavier oil would make a significant difference, but I'd like to let you in on a dirty little secret: The car companies want you to use thin oil so they can use it on their EPA test. They get better cold start emission and FE performance with light oil but they can't use it on the test unless they advise the customer to use it. Good luck.

[@imzjustplayin]

Even worse, what the EPA considers to be a 'lifetime' vehicle is 150K miles so the manufacturers design their vehicles to last that long plus the fact they consider burning a 1 quart every 1200 miles as 'acceptable', it's no surprise these cars with the thin oil end up burning oil later in life. The fuel economy benefits of thinner oil are only seen when it's cold or on cold start but otherwise they're imperceptible on a warmed engine.

[@larrymitchell3502]

Saw a report by a Ford engineer on a racing forum some years ago. Ford rec'ds 5W-20 on modular engines. All for CAFE. Guy said they tested longevity with 5W-20 semi synthetuc & 5W-30 full synth. Police & taxi engines lasted 150K miles (significant ring & valve guide wear) & over 250K with little or no wear on the -30 oil. He uses ONLY 5W-30 full synth in his family vehicles & 0W-40 in his race car. Eff CAFE (Corp Avg Fuel Economy) mandated by the Feds. My personal experience mirrors this. -20 yields abt 2MPG better mileage (7%) than higher vis oils. Engine wear much lower with better lubricants. Eff CAFE & the EPA.

[@markgeletzke6328]

Dont forget that on the initial crank rotation cyl 1 & 3 shot a bunch of Berrymans out and onto the firewall.. That might explain why 2 cylinders were dry even though you added some on top of the initial treatment..

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Good point, Mark!

[@eNKa007]

According to b12 SDS it contains: Toluene 108-88-3 40-50% Acetone 67-64-1 20-25% Methanol 67-56-1 20-25% Methyl Ethyl Ketone 78-93-3

[@adamnugent2137]

i totally agreed with you. it is best to replace the oil immediately after the procedure.

[@accountant02130]

B-12 is the only chemical with a "poison" label in the bottle ... that should tell you something ... instead of following up with regular oil .. just add marvel mystery oil after treatment and then do your oil change ... then add "stp" oil "basic or simple" to help raise the oil pressure ... it worked for me ... former fleet mechanic ...

[@kiamike163]

Finally someone with "proper advice" good job.. 👍

[@hotrodray6802]

B12 is toluene, mek, and acetone. Pretty toxic, but it works!!!

[@dennisd1778]

First off you have to dump that saturated dirty oil your bearings are screaming Second off you don’t rev a cold engine ever next you should always follow the cleaning with marvel to replace the lubricant you washed off the walls 50 years ASE master automotive Technician Fyi if you drive like grandma your more than likely to accelerate the carbon building process

[@williamperri3437]

@@dennisd1778 my rodeo was sitting 8 months so before running I'm planning on putting 8 oz of MMO in my crankcase with a new oil change, and 8oz in the fuel tank. My Rodeo never had that common tapping that is common with that 3.2 motor but I'm sure hoping it doesn't start. I also have a brand new bottle of Berryman chemtool. Any other advice?

[@googleuser3760]

You don't really want to thicken up the oil on cars with variable valve timing. V.V.T. The oil passages are very small that control the VVT. That's why most new cars recommend 0W 20 or something similar. And a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case does a lot of good before your next oil change.

[@HenryMorgan-kp6cy]

An old school mechanic suggested pooring a glass of water down the carb slowly while keeping the engine running by revving by hand. Allot of black smoke filled the neighborhood but the piston rings and egr were shiny clean.

[@Tkhoeumadventure]

I was hoping you crank the engine to remove all liquid before installing the spark plugs! Hopefully all the seals didn’t get harden from the B12 Chemtool because of the rate of evaporation! I would probably drain the oil before the test drive!

[@ShepherdsChapelonYT]

KNOW that all have sinned and fall short of the glory of God. Romans 3:23 UNDERSTAND the wages of sin is death. Romans 6:23. CONFESS that Jesus Christ is Lord, and believe in your heart that God raised Him from the dead. Romans 10:9 REPENT of your sins Luke 13:3 READ and STUDY God's Word to show yourself approved. 2 Timothy 2:15 PUT ON the whole armor of God. Ephesians 6:11 BEWARE of the son of perdition who is coming first disguised as Jesus to oppose and exalt himself above all that is called God, or worshipped 2 Thessalonians 2:3,4 WATCH and PRAY until the true Christ returns. Luke 12:37 Remain as a chaste virgin waiting for her true husband. (Christ)2 Corinthians 11:2 Shepherds Chapel on KZbin explains the whole Bible God bless

[@jalove7]

I can attest through B-12. I have a friend who has Mistubishi. It's a 1989 or thereabouts. He had check engine light. Had various mechanics replace plugs, tune the engine spent hundreds and the light wouldn't go out. This was a several years back. His car inspection was rolling round and he ran across this Berryman-12. After he added the can drove around a bit not knowing what to expect. The check engine light went out and till this day has never come back on . The vehicle has 200k plus miles on it. After that? I start using it myself after each oil change for good measure 😌

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Great story

[@yesyes541]

Most oil flush says keep the engine at idle for 10 to 15 minutes, then flush the oil.

[@saleens330]

Been using B12 in my vehicles for years. Great stuff.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for sharing

[@born2wrench]

20w50 works great in high milage Toyotas

[@francoisworrell9384]

The oil pooling ontop of the pistons is a sign that your valve stem seals are leaking. As the engine warmed up the blue smoking decreased significantly. While your piston rings may not be sealing as well as they should if they had failed your vehicle would be smoking under all running conditions. The treatment possibly mixed with the oil and softened the valve stem seals to reduce the oil leaking.

[@klinesgarage2551]

I was thinking the same thing with the valve seal seals leaking after seeing the oil on top the pistons. Dropped down after shutting the engine off. From my experience with Honda engines, valve stem seals done cause a ton of oil consumption though… I’m interested to see what happens with this.

[@antilogism]

@@klinesgarage2551 B12 dissolves or softens almost everything except viton. Not even silicone is safe. It may go back to near normal after a while.

[@armouredtrend7404]

That's a shame, he replaced the valve stem seals back in earlier video

[@brucewilliams6292]

That was pretty impressive. Look forward to seeing the next video! There are so many people that have this problem. Really well handled on the accident. Too many sue happy people.

[@sergeyslyutov3183]

This looks like you have introduced a new issue, oil dilution. Congratulation! :) I really doubt the oil consumption can be solved in such way by applying B-12 ;( The level is higher due to it now has gas in it. If that is true, it is really bad! The way to get the answer send the oil to the test lab. A note: change the oil after finishing with the treatment. There is no good running the engine with residual B-12 in it. The best practice would be to apply treatment before the oil change.

[@jamesyarbrough4777]

wow dave! great news. when you posted that you were gonna try b12 i did the same thing to my 99 corolla instead of kreen....a little differently tho. i filled the cylinders and let it sit over night. turned the engine and refilled then let it sit over night again. then i put it back together and test drove. i made it down the block and lost all oil pressure, limped it home and pulled the pan to find the oil screen was clogged with carbon. its running fine now. oil consumption has gone from around a qt per 100 miles to nearly none at 200 miles. still have more driving to do but im hopeful. we will see how it goes

[@gregpeyton2754]

James, thanks for posting. Please repost when you get some miles on your vehicle. I'm sure others would like to know how it holds up. Also, having additional people report their results gives a better idea of what to do, not to do, etc.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

That’s awesome! 👍🏻👍🏻Please keep us informed.

[@heitorbernardes7977]

How is it going now?

[@jamesyarbrough4777]

@@heitorbernardes7977 as of today ive put around 500 miles on it. changed the oil at 250 miles and found alot of carbon in the filter. changed again at same mileage and alot less carbon in the filter. engine is getting cleaner. no noticeable difference in oil level on the dip stick at oil changes.

[@cobbleup]

It would have been a good idea to have drained the clean oil first into a clean container to reuse after your treatment. Also should have tried to blow as much crap as possible with compressed air through the spark plug holes and a rag over the holes to catch debris. Then drain whatever chemical had accumulated in the oil pan and maybe flush with some diesel or ??? before adding back the uncontaminated oil.

[@lc46002]

Doesn't all carbon crud start to clog the catalytic converter? Will all that Berryman's B-12 loosen up all slug in the pan? Maybe re-lube the wash down cylinders with some 2storke oil? Are your valve seals leaking went parked? Great video.

[@csx296]

I've been following this series too, mirroring your steps each time on my Peugeot which is using a ltr of oil every 1000km. Same success as you so far. Going to see if I can find B12 in Norway and give this a try! Thanks for your videos :)

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for watching!

[@eldrickejleest]

I'm tempted to use this in my Evo7.

[@TheSnowsurfer7]

In-house lab testing🎉 at Valvoline" restore and protect " brand. Molecular created oil.. for piston ring clean ing. Run 3 oil changes then switch to amsoil and their filters with some "Motorcoat"

[@dimitrisalnikov2485]

You need to drop the OIL PAN off to see for gunk and to make sure the pick up tube is clean from gunk

[@marsamatruh5327]

at least someone knows next problem :)

[@A2J_Tim]

replaceing a liter of oil with a liter of atf works too, Or you could just run valvoline restore and protect which is high in detergents that clean carbon off the rings over the course of an oil change interval. I have never had a car do oil burning like that but then again I run high quality amsoil signature blend and my cars get driven 45 min distances at highway speed every time they start up. carbon build up is from short trips where the car does not get run at operating temps for very long mixed with poor quality oil.

[@blackysan]

Bravo Dave! I’m so confident that B12 worked and yes I’ve used 2 cans of B12 myself as 1 treatment. 1 can for hot soak with engine warmup, and 1 can for cold soak with engine was cold. And I also put in some ATF transmission fluid in each cylinders at the end, about 1/2 ounces in each cylinder to help lubricate the piston wall and final stripping off the left over carbon in the cylinder before starting the car. (ATF can strip off carbon deposits that’s had been loosened by B12). U don’t need much, just 1/2 ounce is good enough or u can skip the ATF if u don’t feel safe with it. That’s small amount won’t hurt anything since u r gonna change the oil anyway. Great video Dave! Hope to see your follow up video about the oil consumption after B12 treatment and remember, it may take 2 or 3 treatments to fully cure oil consumption and each manufacturer’s engine is different so it might have different results.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks again for the suggestion ... I'm still in shock! I'm almost afraid to pull the dipstick again. 😳

[@blackysan]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY so on to your next experiment? Is your check engine lights on because of the catalytic converter code P0420? If that so, I have another suggestion for u to try lacquer thinner in gas tank to clean out the cat. It will work wonders just like the B12

[@ColeSloth]

​@@blackysan wait...what? Lacquer thinner? Tell me more. I typically buy $20 bottle additives for my p0420.

[@mschmidt3108]

Can you just blast a little fogging oil in to re-lubricate the cylinder walls?

[@atomicdmt8763]

good point w ATF!

[@dacellshamburger6469]

It will cut gunk from the whole motor by it draining to the crankcase. The oil will be very dirty when you drain it. It can make a good engine start using oil, I know from 1st hand experience.

[@paulmarynissen]

Derek from VGG swears by this product.

[@adrpals2324]

My 2006 scion xB starting burning oil at 300k miles. I been driving it like for 25k miles. Will do this trick to see if it improves.

[@jimjones1678]

Thank you for your content on oil burning. I used this trial with B12 on my 97 Honda CR-V. It's been almost 200 miles since I changed the oil and the blue exhaust smoke is only a small fraction of what it was. At idle the blue smoke was horrific. I'm excited to see the results as the clock ticks forward.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the testimonial, Jim. These are good data that contribute volumes to the experiments!

[@doitrightthefirsttime8952]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY did you ever try putting the berry man’s b12 in the engine oil?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@doitrightthefirsttime8952 not directly, but it seems what I poured into the spark plug holes would have made it into the oil.

[@doitrightthefirsttime8952]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY maybe try straight atf fluid

[@AudreysKitchen]

Hey Jim. Curious to hear how this has been working out.

[@musicat-home2454]

I would’ve checked/ photographed the dipstick prior to the chemtool adding. If the oil level had gone up then you have dilution. Dilution? I would’ve let it idle in the driveway for an hour or so, under no load. Before running the engine tho i would’ve added a teaspoon or so of diesel or light motor oil to each cylinder to lube them after that experiment. I’m going to try it on a Tiguan.

[@edbrandt8972]

I have the 2003 Pontiac Vibe and I think it has the same engine. It consumes oil but I don't track it. My engine has over 310,000 miles on it so I may give this procedure a shot. Thanks for making the video.

[@4himsanctified]

howd it work?

[@darellsunderlin4670]

Check out Vice Grip Garage on KZbin, Derek uses it all the time , but usually pours it in carb while running but has let it sit in cylinders if the car has set for along time , he calls it " The Italian Tune Up " 😀

[@Pallidus_Rider]

With all that smoke during test drive, you should be driving like you stole it 😂😛😂

[@michaelbaskinmichael9862]

Your compressing the fluid you put in is why it getting harder

[@chapinteo8412]

This cured my 2010 Scion XB i was burning a 1/4 of a quart every 200miles sometimes a quart every 300 some miles after doing the piston soak with this i havnt even burned 1/4 of a quart after 963miles but getting close. Its a miracle cure i tell you, a rebuild your engine for $8 dollars 🥳

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Good info! Thanks for posting!

[@Funkydood]

And best of all, it's one of the cheapest products in the market!!!...seems like Toyota is slipping in quality control/reliability.

[@adamearle583]

I do a similar treatment to my Audi q5 every other oil change. When I purchased the vehicle, it was burning 1 qt every 350 miles. I dont turn the crank though until after it has sat for a couple hours. Currently I am not burning any oil. 5000 miles between oil changes and still pretty much at the full mark. B12 is a god send for most cars that have known issues with clogged oil rings

[@tonynguyen1761]

Hello Adam, so you removed the spark plugs at every other oil change to do this? That's a lot of work.

[@timwrich5128]

You should put a bottle in to the oil start it let it idle for 5 minutes never revving it and then drain and change the oil That's how berryman's will recover stuck rings best

[@MrZorbatron]

A great way using the original b12, not the one specified as specifically fuel injector cleaner, is to pull the spark plugs out, put between 3 and 4 oz into the top of each cylinder with the block temp around 130 F, and then put the spark plugs back for sealing purposes. Come back after after a few hours, remove the spark plugs again, check (use boroscope) to see how much fluid was lost, add a little bit if any cylinder does not have the entire top of the in piston covered, stuff a rag into each spark plug well (not into the cylinder!), crank the engine over 15-20 seconds. Remove rags, use a manual pump to remove all liquid from cylinders, replace plugs, start engine. Run it at idle (a conservative rpm under 2000 if it won't immediately idle well due to the garbage in the cylinder) for 5-10 minutes, then change the oil and filter. Use a cheaper oil, but not complete garbage. Change oil again (use good oil) after 500 miles (unless turns very dark before that). Check your oil burning. Should have decreased dramatically.

[@atomicdmt8763]

perhaps good idea to do a cheap oil w a qt of ATF for awhile..........then flush......and refill the good synthetic. I tend to store my flushed oil- if still viable- as a backup, as needed.

[@buckaroobonsi555]

B12 used to have instruction on the side for use in Fuel System and Crankcase for decades. I think if I remember correctly it used to recommend 1/2 pint of B12 Chemtool per 4 quarts of crankcase capacity. You would not drive it but you would let it idle with no load before oil change for 20-30 minutes at 2000 rpms. I used to use 1 pint per 4 quarts capacity in really dirty engines. This was around 1991 or 1992. I never had any issues. I did it to many friends cars as well. I did not start doing piston soaks though on non-siezed engines until about 2001. When I would replace platinum or double platinum plugs I would pour some B12 in and let things soak then crank the engine latter reinstall the plugs. I was working at General Motors and a lot of cars where having oil consumption issues and piston carbon issues. It just seemed like cheap insurance every 50K miles to do this. Likewise 1 tank of fuel before oil changes I would toss in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Again not solving any issues more just trying to prevent any. Slowly more and more companies European, Domestic and Japanese started to develop issues with oil consumption, sludge and carbon.

[@aaronyork6173]

Try amsoil engine flush

[@eliasdiez9896]

I wish someone had told me how to do this long ago when I had a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Same problem, thanks very much for completely showing step by step. You're a good man.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for watching, Elias!

[@dave2158]

If you are using conventional oil it should be changed every 3,000 miles.

[@samuelsamsonian5832]

The galloping sound when starting means you are down a cylinder. The one that was dry is probably not sealing/low compression.

[@williamvaughan1218]

More like piece of carbon sticking a valve open slightly

[@ddmau7995]

I had a 2009 h3 hummer that had a " check engine lite intermittently coming on,and slight rough idle,1 can of B12 in the full fuel tank cleared it all up .

[@danfarris135]

Those cross hatches look pretty good for the mileage.

[@ovidiumoro5470]

Oil might pour into the cylinders through the valve sealings! There are 16 of them

[@Tsvetan_Dikov]

Hi Dave, would be a good idea to do a compression test on cylinder 2 and 3 when engine is cold, i bet is better than 90 psi. Cheers

[@melvingibson4525]

Typically leak down check tells more of a story for rings

[@Joccka]

wow wow wow wow wow, Your achievement made me feel good for today :-)

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Glad to hear it, Joccka! Thanks for the comment!

[@Joccka]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY another thought ... maybe the oil on the top of the pistons - after the cleaning and the drive - is because B12 consumed some of your new valve stem seals

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@Joccka oh no … let’s not go there! 😳

[@stevewheatley243]

So the oil rings are free now,but so are the rod and main bearings.😂