ATS 505 CRO vs. OIL CONSUMPTION | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 19

[@prevost8686]

I can appreciate that you have tried various things to fix this issue. As a master Toyota technician I can promise you that the only “fix” is to pull the pistons out of drill additional drains AND install aftermarket rings from some company such as Hastings, Mahle, or another reputable aftermarket manufacturer. The OE rings simply don’t have enough tension for a long term solution.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the input. Just trying to prove or disprove the "snake oils" here. ... Still, we have reduced consumption from 1.25 quarts in 300 miles to 1.25 quarts in 800-1000 miles ... so something seems to have worked -- a little.

[@prevost8686]

@@shermanbird3248 I wish I had the young body to go with the accumulated learning. Youth is so wasted on the young.

[@davidanderson8469]

Mine and two friends 1985 Toyota truck's ate 2.5qts/3K oil change. Toyota stated "within specs." I traded mine for a Chevy 3500 and my other friend a F-350. Neither ate oil and were dependable. My other friend marched outside of Toyota of Carlsbad for a week with a sign that read "My truck eats 2.5qts of oil every 3,000 miles. How about yours?" He got a new shortblock. The tech stated that Toyota got a bad batch of piston rings that didn't exert enough outward pressure on the cylinder walls preventing them from working properly. Stuff happens Toyota. That's why I bought a vehicle from you.

[@ColeSloth]

Dealership mechanics are always so uppity and sure of themselves. Lol. Well I'm here to say you're wrong. You cam get rings free and stop consumption (half the time), even on those low tension rings. Pull the plugs, mix 2 parts B-12 chemtool and 1 part auto Trans fluid together and pour a few ounces into each cylinder, then cover the holes. Every 4 hours or so rotate the engine by hand both directions a bit and add a few more ounces so the pistons stay covered. Keep doing this for a weekend, then crank over the engine with the starter and the plugs still out to blow any liquid out of the cylinders and then reassemble, change the oil immediately, and watch in awe that your oil burning ceased without having to tear the engine apart. Its not rocket science. Keep all the carbon deposits that are sticking the rings soaked in a solution that disolves and softens carbon for a long enough amount of time and eventually the rings arent stuck.

[@muhammadbakashmar3166]

Thank you Toyota expert. This should end it for all those who over glorify Corollas...

[@XdCharge]

This truly is a valuable series. Now the whole internet can see what ACTUALLY works for treating oil burning and what doesn't.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks! That's what I'm hoping!

[@HowtoRestoreHeadlights]

This!!!

[@kd5inm]

I agree, I'm looking forward to the yamalube episode

[@barrythehatchet1380]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY BTW. "Poking a hole in the oil filter" is for top mount oil filters, and not for bottom mounts like yours.

[@MrViper1330]

So what actually helps for oil burning

[@deeg4n000]

This corolla has had more oil changes than any one in existence.

[@hjer731]

😂😂

[@copperlocks1]

@@sleepybear7642 I do the same thing to all the used cars I have bought; I do it one a month for a year though .

[@thomas316]

This is one of the great things about having an oil burning car, you are constantly putting new oil in.

[@gibbyrockerhunter]

As any older well used auto should. My 83 rolla wagon appreciates it every 2-2.5k miles, or two weeks when I drove it hard everyday. Originally I wanted to yank out the 4ac anchor, but after an in depth tune up I couldn’t bring myself to separate her from its home. Well over 430,000 confirmed miles before the odometer slowed to a stop. Lol. She’s driven to Vancouver Canada then to Tijuana and back north. The top of pikes peak and crater lake. Battled the summer heat in central Ca for 4 months hauling about 12,000lbs. I have done my part to kill her but she still never misses a beat. Becky is my dirty little Brazilian girl.

[@rogerjustice8835]

@@thomas316 lol I once owned a ford f150 that was like this Corolla it loved to drink oil. I finally got tired of buying oil for it and started using used oil I would drain out of my other engines ( yes lawn mowers as well as cars ). Drove this thing for several years like this, was still running when I sold it. If the body was in better shape I would have replaced the engine, but the body was getting pretty rough.

[@hectorrodriguez3244]

Next oil change; use a solo drinking cup to hold the filter after you loosing it. Your hand will be clean and the oil spill is contained

[@999manman]

Thats pretty slick! No pun intended! Gonna try that.

[@alexanderstykemain3114]

Brilliant!

[@peterloichtl4512]

whats wrong spelling a little oil while changing filters, you fingers fall of after that?

[@SarcasmForDummies]

Thanks for this. Rubber gloves and placing the oil drain tub are not the most effective methods, I still always end up spilling a few drops.

[@dbgoodlife]

Love these tests! They are hugely helpful to everybody who owns a GDI engine. Keep up the good work!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks, will do!

[@jeffshank9513]

I used both the CRO oil and fuel treatments at the same time and very happy with results. 2014 Honda CRV. Used half a bottle of each. Will use second halves just before next oil change.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Did it reduce oil consumption for you, Jeff?

[@MicahLockrem]

I been following your oil burning journey as well. I have gotten great results from BG EPR flushes. I've done two of them in 6k miles on my daily driver, an '06 Scion xB. It has 156k miles on it now. I bought my xB at 149k miles and it burned 1 qt. per 300 miles or per tank of gas. the xB only burns maybe 1 quart every 1200 miles now. I will say I have put YAMALUBE ring clean, BG 44K and any fuel cleaner that contains Naptha in it, almost every gas fill up for the 6k miles. The ring clean is highly concentrated with naptha in it. Look forward to watching your success with your '02 'rolla.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks! And BG EPR might be after Yamalube.👍

[@free2chasehappy]

I'm impressed how dirty the oil became from just running the in the engine for 10 minutes! Might have to try it out myself!

[@tssci6774]

Anywhere from a 1/2 a quart to a full qt of oil will remain in an engine, you are seeing the mix of old and new. It is known in the industry as a Short Volume Oil Change.

[@anthonydilligaf823]

His "testing" is more anecdotal than scientific. He even essentially admits "he should've checked codes, it's been idling more because it's cold.... I might need a new thermostat.. I don't know how to do a compression test.." Not sure why I even watched this. Feels like time I'll get never get back. ....and I'll stick to project farm and better done testing.

[@TOLDyouSOagain]

Ive been follwing you while having that same issue. Ive decided that im going to have to rebuild the engine with new pistons and rings. I reccommen anyscan a30m bluetooth obd2 code reader. Its 200 bucks, free updates and has bidirectional controls. For 100 bucks more than the bluedriver it is more than twice the tool with generic obd2 and manufacture specific protocols. Even on my audi it finds all 25 modules. Ive also noticed that driving around town i use way less but on the highway i use quite a bit of oil. I also notice that i burn oil on deceleration. I think that the increased vacuum from the throtle valve closing and the engine rpms still being high, is allowing oil past the rings. Car runs fine and doesnt smoke except the occasional puff when coming to a stop and taking off

[@C-M-E]

The pine scent additive made me wonder what was in this stuff. Their ingredients are listed as trade secrets, however if you dig a little deeper, the exposure safety bits help narrow down what class certain things fall into. Taking that into account, I'm making an educated guess at xylene and/or benzene, turpentine, oxygenated peroxide, acetone and a fragrance additive. Amounts and ratios, uhh... 🤷‍♂ Thank you for keeping these experiments going and mostly self-contained in one episode (overall) without the baiting tactics of spreading them into five videos!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank YOU for the input. Good stuff to mull over.

[@hotrodray6802]

So not much different from B12

[@C-M-E]

@@hotrodray6802 Pretty much. From the few of these I've looked into, they're all about the same outside of select anti-wear additives and varying percentages in content. It's not much of a surprise really; there's only so many compounds that will combust in the engine and act as a mild chem-based 'abrasive' carbon remover without gumming up in the fuel system in liquid form or harming downstream sensors. My suspicion is that the order of B12 versus this one wouldn't have changed the outcome as they're only going to do so much. There are more aggressive cleaners that would work, except that they would detrimentally affect other systems moreso than thinning out the oil.

[@Ariccio123]

Oh, it's ***organic*** peroxides

[@chrispompano]

Chem mfgs will use masking agents in their formulations to hide other obvious odors. I bet your smelling Winter Green, same stuff in Marvel Mystery Oil. Does it smell like it?

[@stephenbruce8320]

Your compression test improved so that's a difference. I say that because I missed your last video so I just watched it after this video.

[@Charkatak]

I saw that you poured 505 CRO into a cold engine. When I used BG 109 EPR or Luqui Moly engine flush, I made sure engine is at operating temp before pouring the solution in.

[@LITTLEROCK2517]

No

[@jd646]

Why ​@@LITTLEROCK2517

[@aurian18]

I do the same

[@jamesward1931]

Something that I did for my old MR2 roadster (same motor) to make the dipstick easier to read is to drill a series of tiny holes in the dipstick in between the high and low marks. Love these videos, keep fighting the good fight!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Great tip!

[@Yohane350]

Straight through or just indents?

[@jamesward1931]

@@Yohane350 straight through

[@eilliwwasniahc]

Thanks for that clue! The MR2 S has the worst dip stick i have ever seen

[@michaelcrowder7569]

I would add a oil catch can in line with the pcv hose from the valve cover to the intake. This help determine if oil is being consumed through the pcv system, or by the oil control rings. Both results would indicate worn or clogged oil control rings, but it would be interesting to know

[@ScottOstr]

Interesting conclusion about one piston working properly. Keep up the great work! When it finally dies, I suggest an autopsy.

[@slav1north764]

Lol me too

[@ethanhoff7772]

I used the ATS chemical 505 cro oil system treatment in my 2014 Hyundai sonata 2.4L. As you know these cars are notorious for burning oil out the exhaust in the form of blue smoke. Since I did the treatment and changed my oil, my car went from 23-24 mpg to 28 mpg. I am now 800 miles into the fresh full synthetic oil change since the oil system treatment. I check the oil dipstick constantly. It has been 800 miles of driving and I have burnt no oil. I still have the same level on the dipstick, a smidge over the F dot on the dipstick. Before the oil system treatment, I was consuming at least a quart by this point, now I' am consuming no oil. I also experimented on my 2010 Hyundai accent gs with 176000 miles on it. It has burnt oil ever since I can remember, to the point where I had to add a few quarts between oil changes. I added 4 oz of marvel mystery oil to the crankcase and drove it for 200 miles and then changed the oil and filter. I have now clocked 700 miles since the oil change and the dipstick shows that it's still a bit above the F dot on the dipstick as well. I hope this information can help other people.

[@shermanbird3248]

I have a customer with a 2003 Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix) with the 1ZZFE engine. At 190,000 miles, I rebuilt the engine because one of the family members took the car on a trip, the engine burned the oil all out, and the engine seized up. I rebuilt that engine with updated design pistons. At 340,000+ miles now, it doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes!!!

[@sirlesliechao]

I have a 2006 that has 273,000 miles, which probably burns a little bit of oil, but not that much. I wish they didn't discontinue the car. Would have loved an updated drivetrain with a similar body design.

[@thomaskutches2613]

Excellent work again Dave. Continued to really enjoy this experiment you are on. CHEERS!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you! Cheers back at you, Thomas!

[@KittenMcSnugglet]

Have you considered BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner and the Rinse Oil regimen? It seems this is the daddy of all engine cleanings. Seeing the sludge on the filter housing makes me think there might be a lot of it remaining in the engine and crankcase, which could be soaking up a a lot of these products' abilities to dilute the sludge in other areas of the engine. I've seen the difference from before and after with the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner and it's astounding. I do suspect there may be some damage to the walls of the Toyota's cylinders that may be contributing to the lack of improvement with most of these products.

[@K.Bush94]

Hi Dave! Nice to see the things you try. I have seen some of your experiments and that you have spent a tremendous time and effort on reducing that oil consumption. I have an old suzuki swift (like the geo metro 1.3 in the US). Well oil burning has an impact on the catalyst as well. I tried Mannol's catalytic system cleaner and it helped with my oil consumption a bit and much-much less black soot on the exhaust. I will do another cleaning to see whether it makes further progress. It doesn't cost much, maybe worths a shot. I also did many oil changes, engine flush, oil additives, pcv valve replacement... I had performance issues for to a clogged catalyst. Greetings from Europe.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Greetings, and thanks for the recommendation!

[@hajileserpud9539]

Try the BG brand engine cleaners and such... That's my number 1 brand in my garage

[@garymcmullin2292]

enjoyed your video, thanks. Lots of variables in high mileage engines. Your compression test tells me your piston ring/cylinder assembly is sound mechanically. Could be there is crud buildup on rings but if so it is likely to require a long term approach to really do effective cleaning. I have some high mileage experience and found that a persistent use of Marvel or Chemtool, even just ATF in the oil does help with engine deposit cleanup. I have never had much faith in the high $$ super duper engine chemicals. Best bang for the buck is the tried and proven lower cost stuff been around a long time, just keep at it with using them and be patient. You might also be surprised to find oil use due to another cause, possibly even a valve train issue where seals are breaking down, sure to thoroughly check out the emissions system and especially the PCV circuit for proper function. Also keep in mind that oil weight and brands of oil do much effect oil loss past the rings and any additive into the oil such as solvents are going to affect viscosity and promote faster oil consumption. Get that thermostat fixed, you could be surprised at the change in engine operation that results from proper temperature, oils are designed to work best at the RIGHT temperatures.

[@rodburkes8950]

Great video and thanks for sharing it. I've done the 505 treatment 2 weeks ago on a 2013 2.4 Honda GDI engine with 160000 miles, that was burning more than a quart of oil between oil changes, sometimes 2 quarts. I have about 100 miles on it and haven't driven it much yet, waiting on brake parts. I know it's the rings because last year the valve cover was leaking and I replaced it. What really surprised me was the valves and valve train look like it was installed last week, no stains or discoloration anywhere. So I suspected the rings after that. I also cleaned the throttle body and installed a catch can. I can notice the difference right away in mileage and performance but have driven it much since until I get new brakes on it. It's the wife's car and no need to drive it if I don't have to. I'll let you know how it's doing when she gets back home and drives it every day. How this helps you also.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

That's awesome, Rod. 👍 Please do keep us posted on how your consumption goes!

[@rodburkes8950]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY After I treated the carI shut down for the day. I still need to clean the throttle body the next morning before I clanged the oil. I still had some oil additive left and after cleaning the throttle body added it while it was still running. and let it sit until it was just warm. I have close to a 1000 miles on it now and it's just under the full mark about 1/16 of an inch! Remarkable on how much that helped! It should make the whole 7000 miles to the next oil change without adding any. I check it every day. In your car I would take about a 1/2 oz and pour it in the cylinder on top of the piston and let it sit overnight on a warm engine, then blow it out by cranking the engine over the next morning without the plugs in it. I believe your rings and oil scraper are frozen in place and will be next to impossible to free up. Might try this as a last ditch effort to try?

[@dws2313]

Just fixed two EVAP leaks on my 2002 hyundai. A couple of metal tubes were crunchy rust. Easy fix, and a necessary repair. No more engine light.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Glad to hear it!

[@JohnFaire]

You are a dedicated man, sir.

[@thormeyer6198]

Hot tip - take a plastic cup to put up over the filter when changing. The oil will run down into the cup and not your fingers.. 😎✌️

[@alouisschafer7212]

The one that might actually revive this engine is BG EPR. Ive seen dealership techs recommend their products because they are so potent. Might be a good idea to put some down the spark plug holes and let that sit on top of the pistons for some time.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Got a shipment coming to me right now!

[@CrazyMF3R]

I've personally seen cars come in with the full expectation of an engine replacement and leave that day after BGs EPR and/or Dyna Flush

[@DzevatS]

​ @DIY Dave BG makes a few products, could you provide a link? Thanks

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@DzevatS www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-epr-engine-performance-restoration/

[@CrazyMF3R]

@@DzevatS Its sold through its licensed distributors only. But you can find it on Amazon

[@tsmith3286]

I bought the wally brand of engine cleaner ran it for 8 minutes changed oil and my engine light went out. Runs a lot smoother with more power; I had a camshaft sensor that was completely gunked up so I changed both of them too but I did this before the cleaner. I did the cleaner because the engine light was still on. I wasn't experiencing any oil consumption. The wally brand is basically diesel with some other additives. I would not recommend kerosene since it has no additives that protect your seals. I think this is a great video that shows the limitations of these cleaners. It all depends on what may be wrong. Obviously once your engine is clean you should change the oil at the recommended time from here on in. Lastly I don't recommend anything since no matter what you are doing this at your own risk.

[@SoulPoetryandOtherWorks]

One thing that improved oil consumption in my old Corsa was treating the engine with Extralube ZX1. Then on subsequent oil changes add a token 25ml to each oil change. That stopped it from using oil in blow-by as ZX1 does tend to clean the metal it treats. Whether or not it would help your problem I do not know. Adding 25ml the coolant unstuck a thermostat switch too. Please keep in mind that heat tends to harden neoprene oil seals in the engine so they work less efficiently. They may need replacing or rejuvenating. A small amount of ZX1 in the fuel can lubricate and clean the upper cylinders as well.

[@falcorthewonderdog2758]

I use RISLONE engine treatment at each oil change. It works. You just substitute a half quart of oil with a 16 oz bottle of RISLONE during your oil change. Do this every oil change. RISLONE is a mild solvent in an oil based substrate. It's less corosive than engine flushes. And it clears out stuck lifters and cleans rings and pistons while you drive.

[@WApnj]

This project is unlike anything else in the KZbin 'car repair' space. Fascinating. But I predict that the cylinders are just worn out and will always leak oil. 😢

[@thomaspayne130]

Sounds more like weak or too soft of piston rings,tom

[@monahantp3767]

Been following your videos as my '06 Ranger 2.3L has the same consumption problem. I used the CRO twice, and sadly there's been no improvement. It did clean a lot of gunk from the motor, but consumption continues (actually got a little worse after the second usage). My Ranger is using about 1qt every 500 miles: no leaks, no smoke, no carbon on the plugs, etc. The motor has now just over 90K on the clock.

[@lorenray9479]

I use a yogurt 1qt tub to unscrew filter after loose. Filter and oil are held. You may trim hard top lip on skinny filters! So clean!

[@eddieweigel9490]

That 505 CRO is absolutely fantastic it really does work

[@ethanhoff7772]

What did the 505 cro oil pour in treatment do for you,?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Previous video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYecZYqQabhpnK8 Next video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2Sslp-ra8l9rdE Oil burning experiments playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

[@pfoxhound]

Why don't you think that the geometry of cylinders and pistons is different from round? More likely it's oval shape... And the problem is in clearance between piston and cylinder.

[@pfoxhound]

Looks like you have a 2 stroke engine.

[@pfoxhound]

3 and 4 have washed areas - oil cleaned it, they are consuming oil.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@pfoxhound That's definitely possible. It's just that the stuck rings and clogged oil drain-back holes are a known problem with these engines.

[@01mustang05]

Am a bit disappointed you didn't pour the 505 on top of the piston heads, then run for a little longer than 10 minutes and maybe add a quick run to the grocery store or another short drive - after it drained through the rings of course.

[@dkprotek]

BG Products Part #109 & #115 109: Engine Performance Restoration (add to oil /treats 4-8L) Drive at low speeds for up to 25 minutes [can be used on Gasoline & Diesel engines] Drain oil, Replace Oil Filter Add 115 MOA Motor Oil Treatment along with New Oil *treats up to 7L **use Part #112 for Diesel cars

[@SEOKLADUCKIN]

Bump your thermostat to 205 or higher, this will help oil use , also run 25% Marvel's mystery oil all the time , I cleaned a 350 chevy this way and a 3800 gm engine that was terrible, On the 3800 I would put a quart of Berryman in while engine was hot, let it idle 20 minutes then let it set a hour , drain oil , then 25 % Marvel's in oil , drive it 3k , repeat . It totally cleaned inside of motor , car ran for years after

[@tssci6774]

Berryman Chemtool Parts Cleaner, the good stuff in the 1 gallon cans. it's used to dissolve hard carbon from engine parts, pistons, cylinder heads. Use your 12 hr piston soak method. Perform Italian Tune Up afterwards, 4k rpm for 20 minutes to raise chamber temps, then 5-6 wide open throttle runs, until the transmission shifts.

[@BlackhawkPilot]

Looking at the plugs you have problems with #3 & #4 same as your bore scope indicated. Being very old school, had my first car a 1952 Plymouth in 1964, I would treat the pistons from above, i.e. put my chemicals down the spark plug hole, turn the crank multiple times and wait for the chemicals to drain back before starting. In the old school we used a couple of tbs of diesel as the solvent. Stuck rings were common in the days of STP viscosity increaser and single weight non-detergent oils.

[@MegaRhema7]

I use the ATS 505 CRO and love it but I also have had great results from ATP AT-205 Re-Seal. It is a cheaper alternative and has worked for me on a few autos with visible oil leaks even a 2000 Subaru outback with a leaky rack and pinion.

[@ditttch]

They're completely different products. One (ATS 505) breaks down carbon in the engine. The other (AT-205) is meant to fix leaky gaskets by 'reconditioning' the gasket material.

[@Ram14250]

Love watching the Corolla videos! Keep em coming! Hoping for 1,200 / quart!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks!

[@mikeschlup5279]

I have TVF and removed spark plugs...let it soak overnight. Started it, drove it...then changed the oil. My 04 accord and my 93 accord were both helped with oil burning because the rjngs were Carboned up...both had 250 k plus.. high mileage oil helps too....

[@philip5940]

It's to unstick unclog the rings , right . Then just remove sparkplugs and pour a thimble of the stuff into each chamber and leave for half day. But if you do that, then simple diesel might also work just ad well .

[@dr.john-markcain4946]

Pine Sol ! I used went to quick lube once and folks below were going nuts. I told them I ran Pine Sol to clean the engine. 😊

[@carlbrooks90]

Your joking right?

[@neilhampson2843]

I owned a Skoda Octavia 1.8 TSI that used oil at a fantastic rate, 1 liter for 100 miles. No smoke from the exhaust. I used some really aggressive carbon cleaner and let it soak in the cylinders for a few days. After that I changed the oil and used 10-W40 and added some Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer. That did the trick, I went on a 300 mile drive, and no oil burned. It's been great ever since. The car only had 65000 miles on the clock.

[@fixingwhatihave2906]

What cleaner did you use?

[@m8s4lif]

I like your oil experiments. I really like your filming of your drives. Really neat scenery, with some pretty good music. Very enjoyable and relaxing. Thank you.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you so much for your kind comment!!

[@newsield76]

B-12 fixes a lot, cleans up Evap systems, can bring old gas back to life, clean injectors up. Carbs and have used it to help remove gas/oil varnish, throttle body and EGR. Good Video. 👍

[@aidankirby8412]

Thx. You run B-12 in the crankcase or gas?

[@newsield76]

@@aidankirby8412 In the gas.

[@honeyforce996]

The ATS 505 CRO is @ $60 (for the 2 bottles- 1 goes in the gas tank, the other in the engine crankcase), just for anyone curious like I was. Can't wait for the updates, as the stronger/more talked about chemicals start getting introduced.

[@hotrodray6802]

Berryman's B12 is $5 per can, tax included. Half the price of the infamous Seafoam. 🙄

[@junboo8730]

Plus $14 shipping. They went up in price like madness.

[@miriamvivo4279]

Worth it if it works vs $2000 or more for an engine rebuild

[@junboo8730]

@@miriamvivo4279 of course it does. I’m with you. I bought 12 of each more than a year ago. It helped the startup of my engine a lot but seeing this video maybe B12 could have done the same for me.

[@udwvail]

Liqui Moly?

[@geraldoyo1]

Love the science behind your work!

[@CatRacer1A2A]

Modern thermostats fail in the open position. This prevents overheating, but prevents the vehicle from coming up to full temperature.

[@focus82grothm.84]

Great progress. Looking forward for continue with the Yamalube ring free 😊 It may also lower the oil consumption further with new valve stem seals if you consider it, i had a very good luck with that my Ford 2.0 pinto engine years ago. That Ford 2.0 pinto engine used 1 litre of oil every 160 miles before i changed the valve stems seal and after i changed them the oil consumption was lowered to 1/2 a litre every 6300 miles. I was stunned over the improvement. It's very interesting in a positive way to see what chemicals that works and even cures a oil consuming engine. As always great video 😊👍

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks :-) I actually did the valve stem seals a few videos back.

[@focus82grothm.84]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Ahh I'm sorry, my short memory comes to short 😅

[@focus82grothm.84]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY My pleasure 😊

[@GO-AVS]

Following the journey. Waiting for the miracle cure, so I can too implement the solution on my 08 XB. THX

[@Glenn_123]

Right there with you. With a 07 Scion TC...same miserable 2.4

[@Bluswede]

2000 Celica...same!

[@dalelanger3355]

I am the original owner of a 2005 Corolla with 300,000+ miles on it. Have done all oil changes myself every 5,000 miles. Haven’t used synthetic. Doesn’t use a drop of oil between changes. Always very black when removed. Have two Honda Civics, 2006 (200,000+ miles) and 2011 (150,000 miles). They both use oil. Thinking about trying 505CRO and CRF on the Civics.

[@darkerbinding6933]

Still would like to see you use Rislone High Mileage in each tank, but that's a more long term attack.

[@brucejohnson470]

Worked great in my 2010 Prius with 180,000 miles. I was burning a quart of 0-20W full synthetic every 500 miles. Since there is no tachometer in the Prius, I just drove it for a week and then changed oil. It solve the problem and now I go 3000 miles without adding oil and the oil on the dipstick is hard to read as it is so clean. Get better gas mileage too now (47 highway at 70 mph and 57 city). Highly recommend this product combination.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for letting us know Bruce!

[@peterloichtl4512]

if it sounds to good to be true it usually is.

[@brucejohnson470]

Now have 225,000 miles and no oil consumption issues. Additionally, the oil stays very clean looking and doesn’t turn black.

[@greglinarelli9401]

It is very possible the oil consumption is coming from the value seals. that is a lot of oil consumption with the high compression. I had a Mercedes which was using 1qt every 1,000 miles at 175,000 miles. Had the value seals replace and I did not have to add oil between changes. Sold the car with 245,000 with no oil consumption.

[@imgonnagogetthepapersgetth8347]

I'm very close to your mileage with a camry 2.4. I had pretty good improvement from 1qt every 300 miles just like yours to 1qt every 800-900 from using BG EPR. At first I went some 700 miles without losing any oil at all, but then it immediately started losing it again, but much less. I'm going to try it again when the time comes to change it. Maybe will let it run a bit more before draining it.

[@ScottOstr]

Ditto. 2009 Camry - f'd piston drain holes 😔

[@SkylineFTW97]

We use it at the Honda dealership I work at. We run it at ~3000 rpm for at least 30 minutes with the cleaning and rinse oil with a new filter each time.

[@CL-yp1bs]

I own a 2019 Corolla with 70,000 miles. I recently started using BG EPR as preventative maintenance. Yeah, it is expensive but the BG products are some of the very few that have a lot of evidence to back them up a lot of very good reviews and I’ve seen some crazy pictures of before and after. I got mine for only $11 each on Amazon because I bought a four pack for like $44.

[@shermanbird3248]

Toyota actually HAD a campaign for the dealer rebuilding the engine (replace pistons) under factory warranty up to 150,000 miles on the clock, IIRC. New updated pistons ARE the only cure!

[@javierrodriguez3821]

BG EPR, but don't follow the instructions what I do is warm Up the engine and then put in the product, then drive the car for 20 minutes some times up to 3k rpm then come back to change the oil, last time I used Liqui Moli engine flush and got silimar results. Always change the oil with new before and came out dark, which means it did clean.

[@NorthernMoss81]

I have an 04 Civic EX with the same problem. I've tried all of this. Berryman piston soaks, 505CRO, Yamalube ring free, Redline fuel additive, XADO engine flush which I liked. I bit the bullet & purchased a mini blow by pack from Pro Maintenance Additives. It's expensive, but will get multiple treatments for the fuel & oil. Scott with the company is a very knowledgeable old time mechanic, & basically told me after many helpful emails that if their product doesn't fix my issue, then mechanical intervention would be necessary. The yamalube cleaned my piston heads nicely though. I used a 12oz bottle in about 11gal gas. But, went immediately to an engine flush with the Pro Maintenance Additives, & a dose of their decarbonizer in my fuel. I hope this is finaly the combo to fix my problem. I'll let you know if it does.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Please do keep us posted!

[@JustRay627]

Did it work?

[@NorthernMoss81]

It is a multi stage process with the Pro Maintenance Additives kit. So far I have done the 1st initial engine flush at max concentration, & burned through about 20 gal of fuel with the max concentration of decarbonizer. They recommend 1st 50 gal of fuel at max concentration with the FTC Decarbonizer, then cut back half for continued use. With the engine flush, it is an initial higher dose using fresh oil, then a half dose after 600 to 1200 miles after the 1st flush to give the decarbonizer in the fuel time to do its job in the combustion chambers. I'm almost at the 600 mile mark since the initial flush, & hope to do the follow up flush in a week or so. That will be interesting because you can drive for up to 6hrs on the 2nd flush with the chemical in the crankcase. After that, they have dosage recommendations for continued maintenance flushes. I was very surprised by how black the fresh new oil came out after the 1st flush considering you change the oil & filter in your car before you do the flush, then change them both again after before you drive. My oil was only at 800 miles & not very dirty looking before the flush with fresh oil & filter, & had previously done an oil flush with the 505CRO. I just got on my 3rd tank of gas with the FTC Decarbonizer. My tank roughly holds 13 gal. So I have this one & 2 more to burn through at full strength for optimal results. I just started noticing a difference halfway through the 2nd tank. Not nearly as much blue smoke at idle, a little better on mpg, better response. But the interesting thing is I had a couple of instances where I was on the freeway & noticed a big puff of smoke from my rear view, & my check engine light came on. Everything was running fine & actually felt more pep after. The code read a p420 for catalytic sensor, but went away on its own before I even got home. Wondering if they were little chunks of carbon that passed through the headers & burnt up in the cat? Apologies for the long response, but so far it's too early to tell. I am or was still burning oil up till now but has only been 2 weeks since I started the process. I'll be using the borescope to look at the piston heads & cylinder walls after the 2nd oil flush in the next week or so. Should be close to or on the 4th tank of decarbonizer by then too. The car still runs which is #1. Hopefully it's getting a lot cleaner in the meantime. Will keep you posted.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@NorthernMoss81 The more info the better 👍🏻 thanks for keeping us in the loop 🙂

[@falsem1nd]

I really doubt, a fuel additive will do anything to help with this problem, but hey, we're open to anything, might as well try it! Also, I wrote it once, will keep writing it, you have to try BG Engine Dynamic restoration kit! It fights sludge, and I'm sure it tackles other deposits as well! It's expensive, but definitely worth a shot!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

BG Dynamic engine cleaner will be the grand finale!

[@piotrthe1]

Techron Gasoline fuel system cleaner

[@maungmaung4037]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY omg not that 300 dollar package. Not make sense okey with EpR one .

[@tomasnokechtesledger1786]

The CRF dont work also. I indicated one that work for you Dave. It is called Koube hyperflush corrective. OIL scrape Rings get as clean as new ones.

[@回口回-u9f]

He's doing all these for more content. If he finds one that actually works, that would also mark the end for his channel.

[@thatsonebadhatharry8610]

@@回口回-u9f He still has a chicken coop to finish. Or build another one. He a smart guy he'll find something else to fix or build.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I'd like to try it, but don't know where to buy. It looks like it's Portuguese??

[@GilturnerknocksoutphonyFloyd]

ATS cleaned my injectors and removed carbon from valves and pistons. Gas mileage and performance increased. My car does not burn oil so I didn’t use ATS for that.

[@TurboTurdBurglar]

As a 1zzfe owner i love these experiments

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Great to hear!

[@gidderman]

Perhaps now that you have reached the limits of solvent cleaners, i recommend giving a lubricant additive a try. You can add it to your current oil, so there will be no waste. Its called Archoil AR9100. It works pretty dang good at freeing up stuck HEUI injectors, i would be curious if it can also free up (by lubrication) some stuck piston rings. You will have the added benifit of adding some boundry layer back to the hard parts of your engine which by now with all the treatments are likely stripped dry...

[@alouisschafer7212]

9200 V2 is even better :)

[@piotrthe1]

Ceratec , AR9400, Oilsyn ReleaseTech Power Flush 40 minuty

[@gidderman]

@@alouisschafer7212 I believe 9200 v2 is more of a protectant only and as far as i can tell its not sold in america at all, the 9200 and 9300 may be discontinued... whereas the 9100 is a "cleans and protects" product. The 9100 should be superior for unsticking things... and is available on amazon, ebay, etc

[@nicksmith3431]

lil tip from a former lube tec, always loosen the oil filter before putting the drain plug back in. It will release oil trapped in the lines do to vacuum.

[@jd646]

What?

[@btbd2785]

Those are pretty decent size heads on their 4 cylinder motors. This engine has a lot of potential.

[@steverussell6642]

To burn oil.

[@JorgeRodriguez-ov3ye]

You should try BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit! It's expensive, but it works as a personal mechanic I've used it before to clean out sludge build up and it leaves the engine looking and running like new!

[@jeffie8696]

I cant wait to see when you eventually tear it down and see what the rings look like. I have a VW Tiguan and it burns oil like a freight train. I theorize the rings have gotten carboned up and been physically damaged or just lost all tension which they had very little of in the first place.

[@iflarnted]

This may be a dumb question but have you changed your PCV valve. A clogged valve will cause an oil burning issue.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Yep. Did a video on it a while back.

[@rosewd2]

you may want to try filling the cylinders with B12 and letting that sit overnight. vac out what you can and just crank it to blow out the rest, change the oil after that. I did this on my 96 K1500 5.7L pickup and got a 30-40 psi increase in compression. Other that that the only way to free up the rings is to remove the pistons and clean them and or put a new set in while your at it.

[@martindaniels4597]

Try Lucas complete engine treatment by adding recommended amount to the oil. I use it in a 2009 Camry with the notorious inline 4 cylinder engine known for burning oil. 103500 on motor and am using Pennzoil 5w-20 synthetic. Have 3100 miles on this change and am down 1/8” below the 1/2 quart mark. Does use more oil on conventional Pennzoil.

[@plightn]

Have you tried Engine Restore yet? I also really appreciate you doing this real world testing!

[@Taydrum]

He doesn't want to, because it could in theory plug the oil drain back holes in the pistons, which is part of the problem these engines have

[@hotrodray6802]

@@Taydrum What....lol

[@robertphillips93]

You're lucky to be in a place that permits ongoing check engine lights! OTOH, the Corolla's evap codes seem very similar to what I saw in my 20 y.o. Rodeo. First, a generic code, then a more specific one -- also to do with unexpected values during purge. A pretty good smog mechanic didn't have the time to diagnose a bad charcoal cannister. They can be bad enough to send particulates up to the purge valve and prevent it from closing during non-purge cycles. That can throw off the mix enough to cause the exhaust to prematurely age the converter. If you test the purge valve by disconnecting power to it, then there should be no suction (as tested with a strip of paper) at the inlet from the cannister line. Before replacing the valve, the line needs to be blown clean with big air -- or you can install a small engine fuel filter in the line just before the valve. After that code cleared for me, I had to replace an O2 sensor with a bad heater. The converter isn't throwing any codes yet, but it was marginal several years ago -- so it's anyone's guess who'll need the demolition sledgehammer first . . .!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the tips Robert 👍

[@tradingnichols2255]

Couple of things since the last video. That's a lot more oily/carbon deposit looking on the piston heads than before. I do like Gumout's in the gas tank cleaners. Though some KZbinrs have tested it heavy and it doesn't make much difference, it doesn't hurt for maintenance.

[@KittyPurrfect100]

Laurens Road in Greenville at around 9:50. I drive a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and the Low Oil Level light came on again after 4,000 miles between oil changes. I put Sea Foam High Mileage into crankcase the other day. Seemed to help out. I tried the carbon cleaning in the gas tank👍. Will do the same thing with carbon cleaning in the crankcase before the next oil change.

[@wellseverett5128]

From personal experience. First. If you use one of the cleaners and immerse a heavily carboned up part. An intake, exhaust valve. A piston with rings. And it doesn't dissolve the carbon. I mean carbon just falls off of it. Diluted with oil it's probably not going to work very well. Worn rings are one thing. A Jeep came into the shop and we found hardly any compression in one cylinder. A low miles 4 cylinder. At the time NAPA had Siloo Hydra Valve Kleen. I poured a little bit in the dead hole and let it ooze out at TDC. Blew the cylinder out with air and flushed it with carb cleaner spray and kept adding a few ounces of the Kleen. Did that a few times and waited overnight. Flushed the cylinder with air and motor oil. Blew it out again dry. A compression test showed the rings were free. An oil change and report from the customer a month later told us the fix was good and he had no oil consumption. Another lady ran her Subaru out of oil and drove it probably 50 miles with the engine light on. It was clacking with dry lifters and stunk like hell. We flushed it with fresh oil and a filter. It clacked bad. Put in a few cans of hydra valve kleen and ran it. The lifters freed, it stopped smoking from the tail pipe. Told the lady let's see after an oil change and filter. She drove it for years. Carb dip worked on another engine straight down the plug holes. It had low compression and blew oil smoke. Oil pressure was good. Berryman's carb dip has an oily layer on top to slow evaporation. It WILL dry out your skin immediately and leave a hand looking at a lobster claw, and the skin will peel off after a few days. It melts a plastic funnel. We dipped the top layer off and added it to the TDC cylinders and let it leak into the crank case. Flushed them with spray carb cleaner and air. Moved on to another pair of cylinders. Repeated it. Drained the oil, new filter. Did it again. Compression restored and oil consumption was normal. Stuck rings and lifters are one thing. Worn out and time for a rebuild or replacement is another.

[@Mikegastaldo]

I'm waiting for the episode of when you take a sledgehammer to the motor... LoL...

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

😂

[@buckstarchaser2376]

I bet you could get good results by putting a new can of starting fluid in the freezer overnight, and then squirting it all into each sparkplug hole of a very (like winter) cold engine, and letting it sit overnight. Liquid starting fluid is diethyl ether and pentane (or hexane) and both of those are very potent solvents, but don't produce harmful fumes when burned, like brake cleaner does. It's so light and thin that it sucks right into tight spaces and turns stiff/dry grease into liquid, even in harsh winter conditions. Starting fluid evaporates at low temperatures though, so keeping it as cold as possible will help it do its job while reducing its volatility. Also, this is too dangerous to recommend, so I'm not recommending anyone actually try it without a high degree of safety precautions.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the suggestion. That's definitely a new one!

[@buckstarchaser2376]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Yeah, the only thing more likely to melt the goop in your oil rings without dissolving your engine (that I know of) is 1,4-Dioxane. But that's not something you can just buy at a car parts store, and you'll need a chemistry set to make it yourself. That's a bit higher fire hazard than starting fluid though, if you can believe that. It will auto-ignite at 356F, and the fire will follow the heavy vapors back to your container. You can make it out of antifreeze though, so it's got that going for it, and its ability to dissolve "impossible" grease, asphalt, tars and other oily stains that mechanic's hand soap can't remove is nothing short of miraculous. Probably change your oil before starting your engine if using that (or the starting fluid, actually)

[@bicylindrico]

Cold start excessive idling is not great on cylinder walls. Better off increasing engine speed on cold starts when warming up. Great video

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the info

[@nathanseliner8620]

Would u typically run both cleaners at the same time?

[@frankz5864]

Try a product called FTC decarboniser. Amazing stuff for cleaning carbon build up from around the rings, also deglazes the bores of engines that haven’t been run in properly.

[@warrenwinker1544]

check for slop in your timing belt or chain. late intake valve timing pulls vacuum inside engine sucking oil fumes into open intake valve from another cylinder had this with a 351w.

[@gregknight821]

Have you thought about going to an engine preconditioner and getting some old pistons with gummed up piston rings. Soak the pistons in all sorts of different concoctions until you find one that actually works. You will find that Multi Purpose Cleaner {M.P.C} works the best. Remove the spark plugs and tip multi purpose cleaner M.P.C down the plug holes and leave it for a week just topping it up where necessary. If that doesn't work just pull the sump. Pull the head off and pop the pistons out. If the rings are gummed up soak them in Multi purpose cleaner. If the rings are warn out no amount of snake oil is going to fix that.

[@saultube44]

Saved on my Playlist Cars. What a nice music too. You could C&C the cylinders, put new pistons and spark plugs

[@dougsmith747]

Great videos Dave! Ive used chemtool b12 for many years. I started using lucas oil fuel treatment in all my rigs both gas and diesel, 15 years ago and do not have excessive oil usage in any of em ( i go oil change to oil change with out adding oil ) All my rigs had over 150,000 miles and my duramax has over 400,000 miles. Not sure if you find this helpful, but it was a thought I had while watching your videos. 😅 All the best on your Toyota endevors! 😁

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the advice, Doug!

[@jojojeep1]

If you really want to see that oil on the stick, clean it really good with acetone and spray the end of it with barbecue high heat paint. You’ll see it then, if you’re afraid to put Paint down there just hit it with a small hand torch until the metal turns black

[@peterk4134]

It’s zen and the art of vehicle maintenance ; good show.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Peter!

[@liveoak7838]

I am going to suggest Berkebile 2+2 gum cutter again. I would remove the spark plugs and spray a good amount in each cylinder letting it sit for a couple of days with the spark plugs in to keep it from evaporating. You need time for the product to get into the piston drain holes. I would then drive around a bit and treat it again the same way.

[@gregb7601]

The early version of this engine was known to not have enough oil return holes in the pistons which over time would clog. A diy fix is to drill extra holes in the pistons to double the amount of oil return holes.

[@ΧάρηςΑναστασόπουλος-ε2τ]

Hi Dave! Thank you for sharing your experiments is very interesting for us every episode of these. I have a Ford Transit smiley 2.5DI that burns oil. I bought it in this condition and I try to do some experiments like you. A friend who works in local Toyota dealer suggested me a product called "Toyota engine flush - for diesel engine" is e geniue Toyota product. I flush the engine, changed oil in the 150km that I've done till now I saw that the exhaust not smell burned oil and when i remove the oil cap whith running engine the smoke from inside desapear. I'll come again with the oil consumption.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks ... and yes, keep us posted on the consumption!

[@texaspowerman]

Good to see you got to run your tests. Interesting results as well. Peace #keepmovingsideways

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks again, Powerman :-)

[@texaspowerman]

It might turn out to have a single broken ring causing the issue.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@texaspowerman I guess that's possible.🤔

[@shopart1488]

Switch to full synthetic high mileage oil. I did and now burn no oil in a 7500 mile oil change. I was burning nearly a quart between each oil change. 4.0 Ford ranger 127,000 mile standard shift on 3 rd. change, using. Castrol Edge

[@wilfredferguson282]

I'm guessing you have changed pcv valve an all that craziness. An I'd dump 1/4 bottle down each hole an leave it sit. Super cool video man !

[@jigatumadre]

drop filter first also when doing compression test pull fuse on the fuel pump to prevent gasoline washing down cylinder wall which will lower compression

[@Cokie907]

I've got a 96 Saturn SL2 (1.9 DOHC) that has 210,000 and burns a quart of oil every 350 miles. I carry 1-2 jugs of oil in the trunk on long trips. I've done the Marvel soak as well as the Chemtool with no luck. Maybe this would help out my ride? Either way, I'm taking her to 300,000+ miles because the AC still rocks and I'm getting near 40mpg around town by pushing in the clutch and coasting whenever I can. Maintenance is an absolute piece of cake and I do it all myself which saves tons of $$$. 🥰

[@musician445]

I'm new here. Like 1 minute 51 seconds new lol, so forgive me if this is a dumb comment. I do see somewhat of a flaw/varbiable in this test based on some things i've learned recently. The Motor Oil Geek channel has described a level of oil complexity that I think many people have never known before. The additive packages in oil can have a more major effect on the engine than many people realize. Mixing oils is actually a terrible idea because the additive packages in different oils can compete with one another and create scenarios that are worse for the engine. Such as calcium detergent levels that are so high that it creates an oxidation effect. Or ZDDP (zinc) levels that do the same and increase wear rather than reduce it like the correct amount of ZDDP would. Even the amount of oil leftover in the motor after an oil change is enough that it can effect the function of the additive package in the new oil (unless they were the same). When oil tests are done in labs, they do double flushes of oil. I.e. - change oil. then literally change it again with completely new oil both times to get all of the old out before starting the next test with a different oil. Also...The Motor Oil Geek just did an episode about Valvolines new "restore" oil. Supposedly cleaning out deposits that already existed in an engine prior to its use. So that may be worth your times as your next test. And if you dont' fill you filter beforehand you definitely should. He did a test on that as well.

[@eDXTRe]

Hi dave, very interesting video series, have you tried 5w30 oil with SN-plus spec and or Chrysler MS-6395 FORD WSS-M2. Because that additive is designed to keep soot away. (piston rings etc) and clean the engine.

[@castilloabraham90]

I have a 2017 Toyota Corolla XSE and it's looking beautiful with Redline fuel system cleaner. I drive Roughly around 100 miles everyday and it's got 120k miles on it and it's idling smooth. Perhaps Amsoil engine flush might work? I'm running Amsoil on all my vehicles and it's doing well so far.

[@baby-sharkgto4902]

During a compression test you will get exact same results whether throttle pedal is pressed to floor or not HOWEVER when you push throttle wide open it takes noticeably less engine revolutions to get the reading.

[@jamesplotkin4674]

Exactly this. With a closed throttle plate, the engine is sucking hard to fill the cylinders. Speaking of cylinders, yours look very nice with good crosshatch. I bet if you did a ring/bearing/reseal job on this little engine, it would reward you with a solid 500k miles.

[@ilcnnd]

I managed to release stuck rings easily by putting diesel additive directly into combustion chamber, and added little by little for about 3 days, this method works!

[@andressuporte]

Products name ? Please

[@CrazyMF3R]

Given your statement on the smell, I suspect that the key ingredient is pine oil. A known cleaner in other engine cleaners such as BG's EPR and Justice Bros Emission cleaner. Also, given that amount of miles on the engine; there could be some scoring from piston slap. Which you couldn't chemically repair. A borescope would answer this question. I would also add, seeing the cold climate the vehicle is subject too would cause more consumption due to slower ring expansion.