Fardriver ND72360 programming and test

[@GLITCHLIFEinc]

☆ Help ☆ my controller is brand new 72450 FarDriver, i was paying someone to complete the build process and a problem surfaced, multiple actually. Im trying to connect my controller to the FarDriver app. Thing is, dude's already bound to it and says we can't get into it to unbind from it. Says i should still be able to connect on the COMM tab within the app. I do see the controller showing up and i click it get nothing.. bc i clicked on the YaunQs it lights up orange with a green bar. Idk y im describing app graphics .. DO i need a new controller????

[@GLITCHLIFEinc]

When ignition turns on I hear beep beeeeep

[@motoninja2966]

Bro I got a fardriver controller ND72360 I think it’s the same as yours lol

[@mattdalton8829]

How do I use it

[@umbreniusumbrenius153]

hello, what A does your battery BMS have?

[@nogasdash]

What do you mean by that specifically?

[@umbreniusumbrenius153]

@@nogasdash what BMS current did you use on the battery?

[@nogasdash]

@@umbreniusumbrenius153 150amp BMS should have gone higher but next one i will

[@umbreniusumbrenius153]

@@nogasdash thank you my good sir

[@motoninja2966]

Bro I just got a new upgraded controller hell ya

[@nogasdash]

Aww shiddd that great bro! Which one did you go with??

[@motoninja2966]

@@nogasdash I’ll post a video after work today on the controller can’t wait to install

[@nogasdash]

@motoninja2966 let fughinn goooooo congratulations bro

[@motoninja2966]

What bike is this test on

[@nogasdash]

So this is a chinese electric e moto called Dakar ...honestly its a beast for the $ i paid for it lol

[@apostolospetridis6038]

i heard u can burn the motor if u go 100% at all phases?is that true?

[@localvic]

You can burn the motor windings If you push more Amps than what motor is rated for. You'll have to be smart about when to push or let the motor rest. It's best to road test and tune with the App running.

[@nogasdash]

Most of these motors can take alot more than they are rated for trust melol as you see im going almost 70mph on a 3k watt motor

[@apostolospetridis6038]

Ye motors can go x3 or x4 of its rated..but for some seconds..then u need to limit amperes somehow when u reach the speed u want..ppl usually lowering % on the last phases of their motors rpm(from ratios in speed)..i just ordered an insane kit my self too i hope everything goes good 😆

[@apostolospetridis6038]

@@nogasdash how many amps u believe i can push on a qs 273 10kw 60mm magnet height.they gave me 138 continuous 250 max.i know 250 is a joke..( my battery can push more than 700)

[@nogasdash]

@@apostolospetridis6038 I think try double so 500 and see how it rides...and then if that works move up slowly. I was def going to say it depends on what your battery can handle for sure!

[@lottumeb]

Where can we get the latest Android app?

[@nogasdash]

Fardriver website!

[@lottumeb]

No app download there And nothing in android app store

[@nogasdash]

@@lottumeb if you cant find it yourself...email them they will help you buddy

[@imho7250]

Did you ever get this thing tuned to your bike? I can’t tell which video is your latest update on the controller. So many things set wrong, and the 72240 in the other video also set wrong, which I guess is how it arrived when you bought it. But I think you upgraded to Lithium already and probably fixed some settings along the way. If you make another video like this one it will be easy to see all the wrong settings. TEMPSENSOR: First wrong setting is your temperature sensor. I see you have a white wire so you do have a sensor, but it’s probably KTY83-122, which you will see in your dropdown list. I believe it’s #5. If you sell #5 and it doesn’t stick, it means your firmware is not up to date. I bought my 72360 from Siaecosys so it has the firmware which supports that temperature sensor. If you cant get #5 working, use #4 Cacu. This is a temperature simulation, so not as good as the real sensor, but better than the #2 sensor. I have a video showing Cacu, how ir works and how to calibrate it. You change the motor rated power which changes what the simulation thinks your motor has in heat capacity. You have 3000w motor so start there. If you see it getting to 140c and you can still hold your hand on the motor, for 15 seconds, change the rated power to 4000w and try again. Cacu will still shut off your controller if it gets to 160c, so make sure to calibrate it. You want it showing as close as possible to the real setting. You want this thing to be set to read high enough that it will shut down the controller in case you let some idiot ride your bike who doesn’t understand thermal management. POLE PAIRS: You have 4, but your motor is definitely NOT 4. Lol. Setting this correctly won’t change how the controller works, since it only sees e-RPM. But if you use the correct pole pairs, the RPM in the dashboard of the app and throughout the app will show actual motor RPM. The main benefit is if comparing settings with another who has the same bike. He says “hey man, how did you get your hub motorcycle to run 6000 rpm? Mine only runs 1500 RPM?” The simple answer is, he set his pole pairs correctly and you didn’t. Lol And then all the RPM values throughout the app will be wrong. When pole pairs are set correctly, your analog needle on the dash will still read as if 4 pole pairs, for that visual bling bling, but the digital display will read correctly. And if that is correct, you can use GPS and tire circumference and RPM and it should all match. If you don’t know the pole pairs you can start with 16, see if the RPM and GPS are matching for your tire size, and adjust accordingly. Your motor could be 16, 23, 26, or several others. Once pole pairs are set correctly, your Ratios in speed table will rewrite with correct RPM values. You can leave them all set to 100% until all other things are set, then we can come back to that last. Ratios in speed are another protection system because the fardriver is normally sized at 4x the rated motor power. You have 3000w rated motor (42a DC continuous), but your controller can do 190a or 150a if you set that to match your BMS. So you can see if you allowed an idiot to ride your bike, and he got it in a bad situation (riding up a steep climb for several minutes, trying to tow his car with it, whatever), he will bring back a bike with a burned motor. Lol Your throttle settings are wrong, autolearn doesn’t set those, they must be set manually. And many other settings are wrong but maybe you fixed them. Such as regen. You definitely want regen set correctly.

[@nogasdash]

What a great and thoughtful response so first off thanks for taking the time for that! Im def still learning as I go but appreciate the information. I have since played around more with settings I will try to make an updated video soon! You definitely are correct in alot of what you said. I will try out the temp sensor today and see 🙌🏽 I am really interested in is field weakening if you known more about that as well.

[@imho7250]

@@nogasdash, you currently have field weakening set to maximum, but to get a feel for it you can try to turn it off (weakresponse 7-none) and see hiw fast you can go with fully charged battery. Then change it to 6, test again, then 5, 4, 3….0. The ratios in speed table is most there to help prevent you from getting in a situation where you allow max current the controller can deliver for too long. Because field weakening increases current while decreasing torque. So if you tried to go up a steep hill while in flux weakening it will keep adding more and more power. In a standard controller you just set max RPM to ensure the controller always offloads once it reaches that speed. So 150a to accelerate but rpm limit set such that max current is 42a, which is what the motor can take continuously. The downside is even if going downhill, you still have that slow speed limit. The ratio in speed table lets you set 150a for low rpm where you will only be for 30 seconds and then at cruise RPM you pull it back to 30% (45a). Now if you go uphill or against the wind, the bike will go slower rather than burn the motor. But if you go downhill or with the wind, you can still go very fast. If you can get tempsensor 5 working, you have a lot more freedom in power control because the motor actual temperature will shut down the controller, but you still want the other settings to try and help avoid overheating. Where you are with lots of temperature swings you also have to be aware of some settings that can destroy the lithium battery. The old AGM batteries were impervious to charging below zero, so you can regen. But if you have regen on at all if your bike gets cold soaked, it will destroy the battery. You can ride in below freezing but can’t charge (including regen) at all at that temperature. If your battery has smart BMS, you can monitor the temperature so you know when you heated it up enough to turn regen back on. Unfortunately no setting in the fardriver can do that. A smart BMS can but you don’t want the fardriver trying to regen and then the BMS closes the charge port.

[@500wattz]

​@@imho7250how do you turn off regen completely in the fardriver app? I ride in the cold all the time...

[@imho7250]

@@500wattz , one way is set regen amps to 0(called StopBackCurr/MaxBackCurr in the Energy Regenerate section), so that even if one of the two forms or regen is on, it won’t regen. And the other place is Functions: Follow: 1:disabled ensures neither regen methed is on. This is the best place if you just want it off when its below freezing but easy to turn back on.

[@500wattz]

@@imho7250 thank you