Machining and Threading a Faceplate...Mistakes Were Made!

[@jerrysanchez5453]

The way he explains things makes me feel like I'm standing there with him and he's teaching me how to change gears and cut threads

[@233kosta]

When cutting blind threads like that it's much easier to reverse your tool (or mount it upside down if you must) and turn the part backwards. That way you can start on the inside, advance your tool gently (which cuts its relief as it's going), and pull it outwards when you engage the half-nut. The chief advantage here is that you don't need to be as quick in disengaging the half-nut as there's nothing to crash into once your tool is out of the part.

[@prostonaukulele4570]

damn, nice idea! I'm always impressed with threading on such machines and I love such live hacks like yours!

[@233kosta]

@@prostonaukulele4570 It's not even a hack, it's just one of those things you get good at when you start actually thinking about what you're about to do

[@prostonaukulele4570]

@@233kosta but for someone who isn't working with lathe it is totally a hack. I used lathe last time in school and they were worn out up to the very end of their life ;). Few years ago I was addicted to watching abom79, this guy opened my eyes on one of the most important thing - centering the object in lathe. Holy moly, so many strange variables when you don't have anything centered on the item you are working on

[@233kosta]

@@prostonaukulele4570 Yeh, I get what you mean. Back in the bad old days, you used to have to buy the right books and hope that the diagrams would make sense. Nowadays the likes of abom79 are an absolute treasure!

[@billroberts3864]

Great overview of making a face place. Your description and camera positions were spot on. You are a master teacher giving easily understood information.Thanks.

[@FarmCraft101]

Wow. Thanks, but I don't feel like a master teacher. I crashed the lathe! DOH!

[@robinsharpley7345]

Great when ya show what goes right and what is a learning curve too lol..

[@matthewmanuel8655]

You have answered so many lathe questions that I have had for years! Thanks you. I also love this channel because the comments are an education in itself. Keep up the good work!!

[@Ian-iu2tl]

40+ years as a machinist. It's always a little tricky threading into a blind hole. There have been plenty of replies below in that regard so I won't yammer on with tips. But I must say, a lathe with a foot brake is awesome for this.

[@MitchEllis-e4y]

As a wannabe DIY/home machinist I liked your cross slide dial indicator trick to determine when you you reached thread depth. Thanks for the well narrated videos I know they take more time to do and edit.

[@markpeterson9546]

I have used the cross slide and recorded the depth of my threads on a chart and have used that for years and works quite well, I get close and start checking thread fit. Also I had made threaded plugs for fitting threads when you cant take the part out of the machine. Some times you need to make a tool to do the job, once you get over that part its clear sailing.

[@thekiminthenorth504]

You're exactly how a skilled engineer should be

[@ulkesh78]

I always wondered about setting the gears on a lathe to do threading. This was very informative, thanks!

[@poolmotorrepairguyFL]

The Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info

[@bernardkriel1]

thanks for explaining the gearing , very helpful !

[@kathleenfoster9887]

The larger one you made is what I’d choose.Good work

[@matemate4039]

This is what KZbin should be used for

[@LordBlee]

A couple is things. First, thank you. I always enjoy what you share with us. Next, I love the Google closed captions while machining :music, applause! Next, as much as I love all of this, I really miss the canon! Thank you again.

[@phazephusion]

Thank you for the explanation on the lathe. Although I can't think in imperial measurements, I do get the gist of what's going on. Most makers only talk about the gearbox settings, but this was the first time I learned that the gears can be changed. For the question you asked: If you're going to fix the plate permanently I'd say affix the (bought) cast iron plate, so that if for any reason your steel plate doesn't work you can always buy or make a new one.

[@joell439]

What a great ride-a-long…… Thanks for taking us along. 👍👍😎👍👍. Amazing how even ‘disappointing’ DIY results turn out much better than the commercial offering. 😜

[@roseblite6449]

Being that I have no experience with laths, since my family has never owned one, I wasn't aware that they could be used to cut a thread. I've re-cut threads, using a tap and die set with a vise, on about two dozen carriage bolts for four wheelbarrow restorations. Well 3 completed ones, still working on getting rid of the rust and patching one hole the barrow the fourth one. Thanks to my dad leaving me the tap and die set, I was able to salvage all the original carriage bolts except the ones that broke, or had to be cut off, or were missing. Fantastic information on the workings of laths. Thanks for sharing.

[@javig5045]

you're a good teacher, and a jack of many trades, wow how fulfilling that must be, I'm really enjoying your videos, thanks and keep it going!

[@brandonatallian2128]

Flip your tool, run it in reverse and thread from the inside out…no more crashing.

[@Dsdcain]

I'll admit I was going to leave some kind of comment like "Oh my God, so glad that you didn't get hurt when that happened." for the people who scroll comments before watching the video. I couldn't brig myself to do that. I will say that turned out to be a really cool plate in the end. Also a good explanation of the working parts of a lathe. Thanks for sharing this video. Take it easy man. 😎

[@WalterBurton]

Woah. Pretty trippy @ ~7:25. 🤣🤣🤣

[@kevinschlipalius5359]

Hi my name is Kevin from Aus I been watching you make a face plate and having a big stress attack as a mechanical engineer of 55 years I could not believe wat you were doing my computer was coping it , you made every thing backwoods hold your face plate in chuck screw cut from back your thread will be true with the face of the plate I will go be other my computer have a melt down Kevin Schlipalius Deakin Engineering.

[@droughty666]

19:15 A very healthy reaction.

[@RealDeanWinchester]

When you change gears on the lathe put a piece of paper between them and set them tight. The paper will come out when the gears turn and you're left with adequate clearance. Or just do it your way, I find it a bit faster and less frustrating.

[@jamesdavis8021]

When I used to have a lathe without a quick change gearbox,that is the way I set my gears.Works great but,changing gears is like getting a wisdom tooth pulled. I will never go back to that again

[@AxDhan]

Im now a thread master, bow to me! now just need to learn everything else

[@SAMSAM-zr3hs]

Thank you so much, to me it couldn't be any easier to learn how to cut treads. I've been trying to understand how to use those tables full of letter and digits , you solved the mystery for me. I appreciate it, you are so generous to share your knowledge and experience with learners like me. Once again Thank you so much.

[@bobkelly2447]

I sharpened chainsaw chains by hand for years with terrible results as a whole... eventually the saw would start cutting an arc as you mentioned... the reason was my sharpening ! obviously I would get done with one side and then do the other side but by then my hands were tired and I never took the teeth down as far as I should.... at this I was very consistent ! to my chagrin ! I knew what the problem was but with a 36" bar that is alot of teeth to file ! finally I bought a Harbor freight chain saw sharpener.... I started with my oldest chains I had about 8 old chains ! and after figuring out the sharpener I finally got it wo work flawlessly even my worn out chains cut like a dream . we had a ranch fire and so I lost my chainsaw sharpener years past and I finally got another one.... this was plastic and I didn't hold much hope for it.... but with care you can make them work too... the problem with hand filing is your consistency and keeping the file straight flat and at the angle needed even in your demonstration you can see the inconsistency in doing it by hand. will it work ? of course! but a chainsaw chain sharpener is far better....at least for me ! I still have several saws but rarely use them as I now live on 1 acre in the city there's not much wood to cut here ! I would recommend a chainsaw chain sharpener any day...even a cheap one is better than doing it by hand ....for me at least.... however they do ware down the chains much faster but in recent years I have learned to be less aggressive in sharpening the chains as I can take the tiniest bit off each tooth if I want .....it's all in the setup ! and my saws now all cut super good.... the chain is the key to good saw working... even on old antique saws !

[@stephensomersify]

Very methodical, very clear - thank you - UK

[@HGNeese3rd1]

Thanks for the lesson, I needed that because I have the same lathe.

[@markpeterson9546]

Great content always enjoy watching your videos. For better machining and welding dip your metal pieces in a solution of 50/50 muriatic acid and water for a couple of hours, metal comes out clean and ready to work after a hot water rinse, I do this all the time. Also when you "crashed" that part you may have been able to indicate that face to "O" again and make a couple of more cuts to save it, dont ask me how I know!

[@whathasxgottodowithit3919.]

Great video thank you for posting, really good explanation.

[@brandontscheschlog]

The reason you crashed the lathe is because your compound was advancing closer to the backplate with each successive cut while your zero on the carriage remained the same. Its the same threading up to a shoulder on a external thread. Your stopping point gets closer with each cut so you have to dial back your stop with each cut. I thread large diameter course threads everyday and the point I made above becomes clear with courser threads. Try it on a test piece with no thread relief so you can see how the threading tool advances.

[@jeremykemp3782]

So if you do this job regularly, why not do this process in reverse to avoid crashing into the chuck?

[@brandontscheschlog]

@@jeremykemp3782 because with some setups, particularly with specific start locations due to clocking of the mating part, its not possible. Take for instance diving helmets. They typically have a very coarse thread and they only rotate 90°.

[@jeremykemp3782]

@@brandontscheschlog Ah, I see 😊

[@carlwhite8225]

I need to make a backing plate for my new to me Cushman 8' chuck for my Atlas 12' so this was helpful, Thanks.

[@steadyeddie7453]

Yup, you were playing with fire by running the tool post so close to the work. Zero room for error, as you found out. Couple things. Most lathes- For even threads start the thread dial on any line. Odd threads engage on any numbered line. When turning on a rusty part you have to take a heavy cut to get past the iron oxide, or grind it off first. The crossfeed angle for threadcutting involves triginometry- yuk. In general- Compound feed = .75 / thread pitch . So in your 8TPI the crossfeed would be fed a total of ~ .09375 That's with the compound set at 29.5. Thanks for the video.

[@HisWayHomestead]

great video! you explained it very well!!! thanks John!

[@Raul28153]

I know this was a while ago and the project is done. BUT After many many years in the machine tool trades, I can tell you two things. One, you didn't need to support it with the tailstock. Two, carbide is often not your friend. when cutting against a surface with a high potential for deflection High speed steel is usually the better choice. You can sharpen it much better to a finer edge which will produce substantially less deflection. Carbide cuts subsequent to enormous pressures, which lead to deflection.

[@garrysekelli6776]

When you use a lathe to build another lathe and still when a time traveling cyborg from the future arrives to tell about self replicating robots and you don't believe him.

[@honthirty_]

OMG! So glad you didnt get hurt too badly when that happened!

[@dougdearinger5837]

Good job, nice explaining

[@craigschultz3409]

Great video 😊

[@WalterBurton]

The mass will almost certainly overcome any torque caused by wobble. At least from what I can see this video. Awesome. 👍👍👍

[@tuoppi42]

It is always the last cut when things fail.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

Isn't that the truth.

[@SimonHollandfilms]

stop before the last cut!

[@WalterBurton]

"Yeah, I could do it better, but I'm too lazy." ---Not Enough People "Perfection is the enemy of the good enough." ---A Lot of Smart People

[@MrTIGERH1752]

If you machine up an exact duplicate of the spindle nose on your wood lathe, you can use it to test fit your part while still in the lathe, and fully synchronized for thread cutting. This saves a lot of time, and frustration in making spindle adapters in the future. The easier it is to make a spindle adapter, the more times you will want to use it, and make more specialized faceplates

[@woodsmn8047]

only one thing comes to mind ... cast iron is not a springy material which is why it is used for machine tools where as steel is bouncy ... steel rings like a bell but cast iron is duller sounding ... the vibration in machine parts contributes to chatter while cutting ... other than that the home made one is defiantly stronger as you said ... this issue is probably not as critical for cutting wood

[@lexalford358]

That angle will make it wrong by shifting your start point and causing a crash of your single point it small but I was surprised you didn’t snap off the cutting tool but not surprised that you could not disengage the half nut it was pulling on the garage

[@markshort9098]

You actually can test the threads on a part like that by just taking the chuck off the lathe with the part still in the chuck as long as it goes back on the spindle in the same orientation and of course as long as you don't crash the machine 😜

[@shootgp]

When dealing with rust, don't take light cuts - take a heavy cut and get below the rust. The inserts you're using have a positive rake, the cutting edge is up and into the material, light cuts on oxide essentially grinds it off.

[@FarmCraft101]

Agree. I wanted to take heavier cuts but didn’t have it supported well enough. Don’t. Cut. Corners. When. Machining!

[@WalterBurton]

"I don't feel like waiting, so I'm just gonna make my own." ---Not Enough People

[@bobcarry4820]

I always wondered how the second cut matched the first and so on.

[@WalterBurton]

Very cool. Much respect. 👍

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

It prob wouldn't disengage because you were just a lil bit late and the half nut was already in a bind on the leadscrew. Don't ask me how I know this..... Just another reason to use Joe Pie's reverse threading method.

[@FarmCraft101]

Hahaha! Yeah, how many machinists out there have never crashed a lathe?? (zero!) That was my first time, and for doing tight internal threading like that, I will probably do the reverse method in the future. I had heard of that before, never done it, and then forgot about it. Somebody else mentioned it in a comment.

[@Peter-V_00]

@@FarmCraft101 Threading out is less exciting for sure but threading in can be a bit less stressful if you get yourself a positive carriage stop, while it will not "stop" the feed itself the visual aid of the stop is actually much more repeatable than a dial indicator for threading. FWIW this guy made this ingenious simple device for a lathe threading auto stop. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4PMmpimZchpatE

[@FarmCraft101]

@@Peter-V_00 That is a cool stop he made. Thanks for sharing.

[@spencerbass7142]

Very interesting

[@glen4130]

You make interesting videos.

[@kenl5217]

Excellent explanation thank you. Seems more like tool malfunction than a mistake

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

looks like you can use a harmonic balance.

[@earlye]

I was a bit surprised that you weren't using the Blondihacks approach of cutting threads on the far side with the lathe running in reverse. That way, the carriage is moving away from the work and focus is less critical.

[@FarmCraft101]

Yeah, that was my first time to crash a lathe. I knew it was tight but thought I could manage. In the future, I think my internal threading will be done in reverse as you suggest.

[@earlye]

@@FarmCraft101 on the selfish side, I've often wondered what crashing it would look like, so thanks for taking that one for the team.

[@FarmCraft101]

@@earlye Hahaha! Glad I could help!

[@migalito1955]

Geez, you have all the toys. I have a Shopsmith but I am left in your dust with the Grizly lathe.

[@FarmCraft101]

I am fortunate, and have been accumulating tools for decades. They don't cost nearly as much as people seem to think, but after 25 years of saving and buying tools, I've got quite a few.

[@migalito1955]

@@FarmCraft101 yep that's the way to do it. I had bought an antique 36 inch Oliver lathe to restore and use this April. Out of the blue in May my neighbor gave me tools he inherited from the previous owner who had died. In the set was ShopSmith Mark V, Power Sation and Band saw. I spent only about $80 on repairing the speed control on the Shopsmith and I had broken the darn thing by not having been familiar with how it worked otherwise the whole setup was free. I do enjoy recognizing some of your tools as mine knowing we both visit Harbor Freight. You really need to work on being less entertaining for I get nothing done in my shop when your latest video arrives.😊

[@ohasis8331]

I did learn something. Something signicicant. I was thinking of getting myself a metal lathe but realised that there is not a great deal that I really want. So . . it would be far easier not to get one and farm out the job/s. It would have been mainly for masturbatory value only. Thanks for an interesting and informative vid.

[@markp6062]

Very enlightening. Thanks for sharing what went wrong as well as what went right! I napped through all the threading math. Is that bad? At least it explains why I do electricity and not machining. ;) Which one will be better? I think that larger pieces will work better on the new one, but smaller pieces may actually benefit from the original.

[@marlinyohn8982]

That was impressive but I think I am going to spend the 30 bucks for another plate. Thanks for sharing your craftsmanship.

[@donmittlestaedt1117]

Thank you.

[@kecclest]

Cast iron is used for face plates to avoid thread galling. Nice work, though!

[@Lucas12v]

That's a good point. If the male thread is heat treated, that will help a lot. A bit of oil or anti seize will stop it too.

[@kiiiisu]

very good video cheers!

[@MrClickbang357]

THIS is why one uses the backwards downcut way of single point thread cutting!!!!!

[@jozefa1234]

Hey you forgot the most important face to face off. the site that fits against de spindlenose gives you the correct balance and minimal runout. you relay on the threat now. It is still blue from welding. goodluck

[@Strothy2]

Ahhh yeah the joy of making something you COULD buy, but you rather spend 200$ of material (of course only old offcuts you had since 2005 so it does not count) and two days of work doing it yourself because the shipping is 14$... still nice video man, keep em comeing!

[@smartbull6382]

It’s more fun to build it yourself. And decent steel is not always expensive. I got enough mild steel to make a steel pallet for a project for only $140. Mistakes aside, he mostly just lost money on his time. $60/h for his experience, 3-4h of his time, $180-$240 of his own time got spent on a $30 piece.

[@jeremykemp3782]

Can you work the opposite way when thread cutting, so there is no chance of crashing into the chuck?

[@jimnaz5267]

is the new face plate out of round? it looked like it was wobbling on your last video. it also looked like it went out of round when the carriage hit the face plate. it looked like the face plate was no longer perpendicular to the axis

[@wardenpotato]

Nice video

[@YossiRafelson]

The old one has a flywheel edge (is that what it's called?) The extra weight concentrated around the outside edge. Does that make much difference for balance?

[@Lucas12v]

It will contribute to angular momentum which would exaggerate the effect of imbalance but it won't create balance or imbalance by itself. Wood turning usually starts off with highly unbalanced loads so the process must not be too sensitive to it. I doubt that he will have any problems. It's probably pretty close anyway since it's roughly concentric from the lathe.

[@Pest789]

Given that the majority of the surface area of the original plate is as cast, your new one has to be better balanced. I have a couple of chucks for my lathe that I've never used because I'm too chicken to try to thread backing plates for them. I would LOVE to mount a threading tool upside down and run it in reverse, but my spindle isn't a locking design and trying to thread in reverse would just unscrew the chuck 😞

[@FarmCraft101]

Great point. I think I've heard of threading that way in the past, but had forgotten. It makes a crash essentially impossible, but that was the first time I ever crashed a lathe. In the future, I may do my internal threading that way.

[@Jason-bt5cs]

22:50 lol 😂

[@FarmCraft101]

No bueno!

[@Mr.Donahue]

Make two!

[@jacquespoirier9071]

heavier a machine part is, better it is, weight is a good way to absorb the vibrations by hysterisis. weight for weight, cast iron has better damping characteristics than steel, it is the main reason why machine tool castings are almost exclusively made from cast iron.

[@doctorthee]

I love how u just find a steel plate in the woods

[@FarmCraft101]

Me too! I scoured the area looking for more, but this is the only good piece I found.

[@sdspivey]

Shouldn't you cut the threads, then attach to the lathe, then surface. Otherwise, you may have the face not planar to the axis.

[@owenquinn2161]

How much does a metal lathe like that cost i wonder? I can think of so many projects id love to do with something like that

[@justfloat1]

Just a question, are you boring then dragging the tool back out, its real easy to move your tool off the part, via using your dial, just saying….. then dialing back to where it was then moving in .010, or .020, before measuring take a free pass to remove any tool deflection, then measure, that way no surprises…..

[@wolfpreist]

I find myself wondering if you could take it to a tier shop and they could run it on their balancing machine...

[@FarmCraft101]

Definitely. I just don't think it's necessary. I guess we will find out once I finish my project!

[@wolfpreist]

@@FarmCraft101 necessary? 100% agree probably not. It'd just be cool to see.

[@shootgp]

No need for that, just balance it the same way one does for a grinding wheel. Check out some vids on how to balance a wheel for a surface grinder. Same concepts apply just use weld beads and a die grinder.

[@thomasthecrunkengine3512]

Good sir, would you happen to have any opinion on the Grizzly model G0769 Lathe? I’m getting my first big boy tool and don’t want buyer’s remorse.

[@FarmCraft101]

I've never used that lathe, or a combination machine like that. It would definitely be useful at times to be able to do some milling on a part without having to remove it from the lathe. Obviously saves on space as well. I own several tools made by grizzly so I can give you an opinion there. My metal lathe, metal mill, jointer, wood lathe, and wide belt sander are all Grizzly. I've not regretted purchasing any of them. Expect some fit and finish quirks, and expect to take a little extra time setting things up to make them perfect. I had to shim my mill and jointer. I made some custom knobs and a large chuck key for the metal lathe. I did a small modification on my sander. Didn't have to do anything to my wood lathe. Overall, I think Grizzly makes decent tools that will do the job they are intended for at the best possible price. It's the best bang for your buck, but you have to accept some minor inconveniences. The tools aren't the best, but nor are they disposable junk like so many things are today. They are solid tools that will get the job done. Good luck.

[@thomasthecrunkengine3512]

@@FarmCraft101 thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it!

[@chuckandcharlie6915]

Hi uncle john!

[@ernestgalvan9037]

It Was Clear As Mud, But it Covered the Ground, Confusion Made Me Head Go ‘Round

[@flameboy7265]

Given some of the huge projects you’ve tried to destroy your wood lathe with, it should make it all the more entertaining when it finally tries to kill you if it has the heavier faceplate on it! PS. Love the content👍

[@LordBlee]

"everything gets hotter when your tool gets dull." That's not what she said!

[@lesthompson5907]

no More out of balance than the log or wold to be trend. if that , i Like it ,well bon son .

[@n-steam]

You could have gone overkill on the weld, and bore a hole through the plate the same diameter as the axle. Heat up the plate and put the axle inside before it cools. Then you could weld both front and back. But I know nothing about lathes, or welding. I'm also thinking it may be a bad idea to make something 'disposable' tougher than the machine.

[@ScottKenny1978]

You *definitely* want a cheap part outside the machine to break first! You want a bolt to break before the beam does.

[@actmgr9786]

@16:40 you're actually going 32 RPI

[@robertschmidt6383]

When welding the wand is suppose to go back and forth. Not in a circle. yes. O no

[@tofmcwilliams887]

Amateur question/observation: the first several threading passes showed that the cut wasn't consistent all the way around. Does that indicate that your center has shifted from when you first bored and trued the outer circumference?

[@FarmCraft101]

I think it appears that way because of the cutting oil being inconsistent and fooling you eyes. You can see that those cuts all peel a consistent chip through the entire length of the cut, so I think they were right on. But if it was indeed cutting inconsistently, assuming the bore is consistent and round, then you would be correct, it would be off center. (I never removed the part from the lathe until the end, so no reason it's center would have shifted.)

[@ScottKenny1978]

Probably meant that the boring bar wobbled a little.

[@Lucas12v]

I think it's an illusion because of the thread start only being at one part of the circle. It makes it look out of round.

[@tofmcwilliams887]

@@FarmCraft101 Thank you. I appreciate your approach to educating your viewers.

[@robertschmidt6383]

Why don't you get a thread gauge? It will tell you if the thread is correct for what you want to cut.

[@robertschmidt6383]

Why don't you reverse the Chuck jaws and turn the piece around THEN cut the threads in the one inch.

[@vitoialungo2229]

Dial indicate the new plate it is out of wack when you hit it ... true it up!

[@deefdragon]

Tldr you got reduciulously lucky after getting reduciulously unlucky

[@Taylorweintraub]

no offense intended but why is your threading dial so twitchy? on mine and other grizzlys its always so smooth? also on my grizzly the halfnut tends to stick under heavy cuts. made me crash a couple times. i think its the brass halfnuts dig into the steel threads.

[@FarmCraft101]

Not sure why it looks jumpy in the footage. It's smooth in person. I was definitely doing a heavy cut at the end, as the thread was quite deep with a large area of contact. Maybe that's why it was difficult to disengage.

[@jonasowens27]

are you related to dozer dave on gold rush ?you look and talk just like him

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

I think you need to rust treat that now or you'll regret that later. ;)

[@ScottKenny1978]

Seconding this!

[@Lucas12v]

Good idea.

[@WalterBurton]

👍👍👍

[@tas32engineering]

Always clean your leadscrew first.

[@garrysekelli6776]

7:40 how do you start boring when you already are? Hehe 😋