Adventures in fire fighting, plumbing, cussing, brazing, and pressure switches. Phew! FarmCraft101

My shed burned down, and I was caught trying to fight a huge fire with a garden hose. Not again! I install a fire hose on the water main of my house, remove the worthless galvanized pipe that was there, and then test out the fire hose. Overall, a successful endeavor, but never without a few hiccups along the way. Yes, you can power a respectable fire hose with a well system, and even get some pretty impressive flow.
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[@EleyCycleWorks]

Some thoughts on using water for fire fighting. A stream of water is great for attacking from a distance if the fire is too hot to approach, but the fogging mode is better for knocking down fire (especially in an enclosed space). Fogging has the added benefits of being more economical with water volume , acting as a shield against the heat and it will draw cooler air from behind the operator. You may want to try a different hose stacking method. The accordion method works but can have fairly high friction when running out the hose. I will try to explain the U fold method. Instead of the vertical stack of hose, the U fold uses a horizontal layout. On your flat three sided box lay the hose on edge around the outside of the box, when you reach the end of the third side, fold the hose back on itself and lay it inside the previous lay. Continue with this until you have filled one layer. If there is more hose fold it neatly to bring it back to the outside wall of the box and continue the laying from the outside working inward. If you have more than one hose length, the joints should be placed at the open side of the box such that they are accessible when less or more hose is needed. When finished the nozzle end should be laying free on the top of the stack with the nozzle shut off. You should find that the hose is easy and quick to extend without kinks. When pulled out to the needed length the person at the valve can separate unneeded hose before opening the valve. The hose connectors only need to be tightened as much as the weakest hands on the crew can do by hand to facilitate this. Doing this gets rid of pulling out the full length unless needed and less hose means more pressure at the nozzle when the water is flowing. Pressure is your friend for fogging, be sure your pressure will deliver fog from your nozzle. A note on using joint tape. The tape is a lubricant, not a sealant. The pipe thread taper is what does the sealing. With this in mind you may not want to wrap so many layers. A single half lap layer is all that is needed. Your idea of building a box to hold the hose is very good. You don’t want hose lying on a concrete floor for extended times, the hose will rot if left on concrete. Pay heed to the fellow that said to be sure and dry your hose after use. Having extra hose means you are not left without a hose while drying the one you used. Be sure to let everyone on your crew practice using the fire fighting equipment you have. I hope these tips can help everyone that watches your interesting videos.

[@xshowda]

For succesful fire fighting you have to switch between fogging and stream, while fogging is great to break a fires intensity, to completely extinguish it you have to switch on stream for a way better penetration effect on materials that create ember.

[@jasongreene303]

I was going to comment on the number of crosslays that there are for use on fire engines that have been thought of over the years, but you already have that covered. I'm also a couple of years shy and a dollar short anyway. One twist I thought of was to have a diy dry sprinkler system in my home. I have access to designs and specifications along with a friend who audits installations so it might be a good project some day.

[@marekogarek6329]

Everyone says teflon tape is not a sealant, but it's not quite true. I bought a shitty electric water heater that doesn't quite fit. I run it all the way in (goes in easy, but then then the housing hits the wall and I can't go any further) and it was still leaking. Then I added a LOT of teflon tape, run it in till the housing hit the wall and it hasn't leaked in a decade.

[@hotflashfoto]

@@marekogarek6329 Basically, what you did was to increase the diameter of the pipe fitting, which caused it to seal sooner when being screwed in. The threads are tapered, and as you tighten them, the two cones come into closer contact. Your taping job works due to the size increase. And the threads help keep the tape from slipping out under pressure, so your solution works very nicely. Good job!

[@metroplexchl]

I like that you share your mistakes. It helps us all.

[@billykulim5202]

after he install those fire fighting, he never have anything burn down again....thats how god played your life hahahhahaha

[@Mrbanshee33]

I'm good with my hands don't shy away from work and I wish I had a quarter of your ability to do things

[@FarmCraft101]

Just keep doing things. You learn with every project, and after years of projects you end up with a pretty broad skill set. Thanks for the kind words!

[@XXxxcrisisxxXX]

Omg. I just jumped and my heart skipped a beat 😂 good job sir

[@ericryan683]

Great Video. I just recently had a cistern put in and bought the pump, pressure tank, etc to bring in and hold the water. Haven't got it all hooked up as I am still mocking up the water lines and drains in my cabin. Just being able to watch and see you do things like I imagine they should be done is helpful. I really appreciate the inclusion of the mistakes as well. I always seem to learn from them whether they are mine (usually) or someone else's. Thanks again!

[@middleway1885]

Woooh~ for things working out!

[@kenl5217]

These type of vids are informative. Thank you

[@southronjr1570]

You sir appear to have acidic water, I had to replace my ENTIRE farms piping converting from brass and copper over to pvc and cpvc because the acid in the water had began eating holes through the brass, something it can't do through pvc. My father had swapped everything from galvanized to brass for the issue you have and 25 years later it was my turn. Enjoy the vids

[@HelloKittyFanMan.]

CPVC _is_ one of the forms of PVC (polyvinyl chloride), so just saying "PVC" will cover the _base_ and the C version, unless you think it's always important to specify the two because of their differences. In that case the comparison would be "CPVC and _base_ or _regular_ PVC."

[@jeffreyblack666]

​@@HelloKittyFanMan. Only if you think PVC and PE are the same and that copper and brass are the same. They are chemically different and have different properties.

[@HelloKittyFanMan.]

I didn't say PE, @@jeffreyblack666. I'm saying that there are 2 kinds of PVC: the regular kind and the kind with chlorine in it. I didn't say they were the same thing; They're in the same category, though: PVC with or without the first C.

[@jeffreyblack666]

@@HelloKittyFanMan. I know you didn't say PE, my point is that saying CPVC and PVC are the same, or that CPVC is covered by PVC is just as incorrect as saying PVC is covered by PE. They are chemically different. PE is also in the same category. It is a plastic as well, just like PVC and CPVC.

[@HelloKittyFanMan.]

@@jeffreyblack666: No it's not; it's simply a wording choice. Do you not see a "PVC" _in_ "CPVC"? The only difference is that one is chlorinated (so yeah, there's your chemical difference), and the other is not, so the one is the chlorinated version and the other is the regular version. The *_regular_* version. See the difference? The rest is the same in that they both say "PVC," or polyvinyl chloride. (Well, since both Cs stand for "chlorine" or "chloride" -- "chlor-" -- that seems redundant to me. But anyway, since they both have that "polyvinyl chloride" in there, then to to say that "CPVC isn't one of the types of PVC" is like saying DVD-videos "aren't videos" even though they clearly are.

[@85square]

That's really awesome! you could also have a portable pump by your pond so you would have an almost unlimited water supply.

[@account8242]

Anyone else want to see him turn that valve on while that hose is stacked up in the box? Lol

[@____________________________.x]

Account ...this seems to be the flaw here, having to fully unroll the hose first and then run back to turn it on. A standpipe outside makes more sense.

[@Idknaming]

I've seen that happen many of times on fire engines it's actually pretty funny to watch

[@account8242]

@@____________________________.x maybe he could throw the roll out the door towards the fire and then turn on the valve.... And then race the water to the end in order to grab the hose before it freaks out and starts flailing around lol

[@account8242]

@@Idknaming yeah I was once knocked off the top of a fire engine top-mounted rolled-up hose nozzle hitting me.... Those things can have some force behind them

[@freddifish4179]

Since it was all apart I'd have tossed a ball valve between the union and expansion tank so you can turn it off and keep pressure whenever you need to work on the system.

[@nickmastroianni5557]

I have had acidic water eat through 3 of my copper/brass pipes and fittings in the past 12 years. Many years ago, I had to replace a 12 foot section of leaking underground galvanized pipe which had rusted out from the inside from cold well water. If I were burying 100 foot sections of black flexible PVC piping, I would use 316 S/S fittings to connect the pipe as plastic fittings seem to eventually crack.

[@richardw.foxhall3392]

Old plumbers know always use a backing wrench[ pipe or adjustable] to tighten each fitting progressively. Put each threaded fitting in to the "point of closure" NPT has a taper for that reason. You put enough teflon tape on... took me a mintute to realize you were doing it correctly for a SOUTH PAW. But your discription was spot on. Well thought out test, well made delivery for hose. Suggest triannual hose inspectons, and more hose stored in any close out buildings... insurance savings for fire suppression equip?

[@leeegg7627]

A year late but I just saw an interesting video that seems related. He suggested, that when wrapping teflon on fittings, leave the first couple threads clear to make it easier to thread the fittings together.

[@sinpwnzorz]

Just getting around to watching this video. Using a 90 degree elbow on the valve handle adding mechanical leverage, you could tether that handle to the last foot of your hose so once it reaches maximum deployment it turns on as the end of the hose trips the lever.

[@FarmCraft101]

That's a cool idea. Thanks!

[@sinpwnzorz]

@@FarmCraft101 Love your videos! As a firefighter / tinkerer / inventor myself it's always fun to see what you come up with.

[@luisvillalobos6517]

I enjoy the puzzle of how to put together manifolds and fitting like that, it can be a PITA at times, but it's good brain work.

[@Brauma54]

If you have room, put your pressure tank up on a table. Mine is on a simple table made from old pressure treated decking boards. Maybe 32” high. It gets it up off the floor and so nice to work on. My whole house water filter is right there too. I took a pic but don’t think I can attach here.

[@bobmottau7668]

Just recently found this channel; love it.

[@keithlincoln1309]

Learn so much from your videos

[@Mrbanshee33]

As always very informative very cool

[@robertlemoine3500]

Thankyou John.

[@devonbond3093]

I've never had a thread leak with Recterseal No. 5 pipe thread dope, and I've fitted loads of pipe, on the jobs and at home.

[@wak3oarder]

check out the dixon swing type hose storage reel for that extra fire hose on the ground

[@NightyNite94]

Damn that's a nice setup I would love to have gpm

[@jimmyjohnjeremiahjr6964]

R.I.P water bill 😂😂 great video

[@anthonyrespass3090]

Love it

[@kalemercer7053]

Our OCD would get along great.

[@JxH]

An R.O. filter system under / beside your kitchen sink is one way to reduce worry about what you're drinking. They're ~$250 on Amazon and I find them to be more-or-less trouble-free.

[@devonbond3093]

I thought about an RO system, but they do waste lots of water, which on a low volume well like mine would not work. I went with a good Whole House filter system instead.

[@MakersAcres]

It always boggles my mind anytime I see people using galvanized for any water type uses.

[@1rustytree]

Good job! Hope you never need to use it for a fire though!

[@FarmCraft101]

Agree. Since I installed it, I probably won't need. But if I hadn't, I would definitely be wishing I had... Murphy's law!

[@timidater4803]

We used Rectorseal#5 on all our metal, copper, and brass fittings, all for potable water, and gas, cant stand that teflon!!

[@gomezadams9900]

I really thought you were going to give us a demonstration after you finished to show how quickly you could put out a fire.

[@twokan01]

Hi FarmCraft, thoughts on water and pressure NOW! I cannot tell where you live by the view, but you may want to consider a swimming pool or a 500 gallonish water tower. I see you have a body of water below you, so you could refill it every spring if freezing is an issue. 2 pumps in case 1 fails is also a nice to have. With a water tower no pump needed once filled. Then gravity is your friend in this instance. KG

[@bobpowers9862]

When I was doing HVAC? I replaced any number of gas valve/regulators due to teflon tape breaking off tiny pieces, which then got into the valve, clogging it. I despise teflon tape; it's for temporary things only. Teflon impregnated dope is infinitely superior in every way; if you use it correctly, none gets loose inside the piping. Most slather on way-way too much. Other than the use of dangerous tape? Good video. Agree: galvanized pipe ought to be banned for potable water.

[@chuck1352]

i think they make non toxic pipe dope

[@MakarovFox]

nice pressure a power shower time

[@DanKoning777]

I don't know if it been said already, but if theres a fire, I'd make sure the hose is all the way out the door and "unstacked" before the ball valve is opened. You'd never get it out the door if the hose fills inside.

[@FarmCraft101]

No doubt. Have to get it in position before turning on the water.

[@whynotjustmyusername]

You should dry that hose properly before putting it back. Otherwise it may end up popping when you actually need it.

[@FarmCraft101]

Thanks for the tip. Just blow air through it, like with a shop vac?

[@whynotjustmyusername]

@@FarmCraft101 I doubt that this is going to work, the best plan is to let them hang vertically or at an angle to dry, which can take a few hours. If we go by the fire service gold standard... immediately after use hoses are lain out and lifted section by section to drain the water. The hose is then rolled up and brought back to the station. There it is washed and pressure tested (filled with 1.5 times its usual working pressure and observed for leakage or slipping couplings), then either dried in a drying cabinet (just a steel cabinet with warm air flowing through) or hung to dry in a hose tower. To avoid damage to your hose I'd do all of these steps (and keep a few rolls of hose in reserve).

[@EleyCycleWorks]

If you are using forest fire hose, which is a kind of soaker hose, you need to dry it from the inside. Blowing with a shop vac through a drained hose should work, but will be slow. With regular fire hose the outside needs drying. Do not store any hose with standing water left inside. Wash grit off the outside of any hose. Care for your hose before storage will certainly extend its life. Periodic inspection will assure you that it is ready when needed. Inspection time is a great time for everyone that may use it to practice and not have to figure it out while a fire is getting away.

[@luxnova8211]

*Heats up Brass fixture on Vice* Me: AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH WHHHHHYYYY

[@FarmCraft101]

Lol. No kidding. What an idiot! I just wasn't thinking it through at the moment. I actually know better, believe it or not!

[@EleyCycleWorks]

Exactly! You can’t make mistakes if you are doing nothing. Remember, If at first you don’t succeed, You are normal.

[@davengg8467]

You could have got booster line fire hose with booster line you can pull out any length of hose and be able to use it

[@Lordosvk]

I would like to give you a Milion likes you are gem

[@michaelowens7947]

Just watched this video. Fire hose is a great idea but the location is questionable. Looks like the location is the basement of your shop. What if your shop is on fire? Are you going into the basement of a burning building to get to the fire hose? Consider a location outside near the shop in some sort of protective cabinet. Of course if the shop is on fire, you could lose power to the pumps.

[@Elasinthe]

I know this is over a year late, but those wire connections man.... fix those bad boys!

[@MagdaWu]

Teflon tape is really not the best choice, as you can't reset the connection by backing up the thread. Loctite 55 pipe sealant is very good, but I use linen tow for a very long time and with a great luck.

[@fkiesel9442]

how did you dry the hose after the test. If you don't dry them, they will start to rott.

[@vivitar45]

only issue if the power goes out it be useless

[@sighpocket5]

Nice!!!! ( no check valve???)

[@idontthinkso666]

He said there are two

[@michaelmolter8828]

You might want a check valve on those pump legs. There’s likely one at the pump anyway, but I’d be worried the larger pump would backfired the smaller one?

[@FarmCraft101]

Both well pumps have check valves built into them.

[@evanstauffer4470]

What is the capacity of your well pump? No way my well pump can put out anything close to 45 gpm!

[@matt_1984_]

do you have to worry about the hose dry rotting? Also love your videos and envy your shop setup :P

[@jasongreene303]

All rubber has a service life, and that should be printed on the hose. There's a safety factor in those dates, so as long as the hose is hung dry after use and it's inspected from time to time AND it's not for life safety or an interior attack, run it until it works as well as a soaker hose =]

[@toolshed3216]

Supportive bleep bloop

[@evana1900]

Just curious if you ever tested pulling the hose out of the box? In a rush as you would during an emergency.

[@Highstranger951]

The small pipe setup for the pressure switch concerns me man. I hope the cap is still strong enough to hold it stuck out like that.

[@jackfrost1031]

I don't know why but I normally reach for dope instead of tape. It is messy though.

[@bobbg9041]

Is that lake yours also. You could always add a pump to it too.

[@DanKoning777]

Question...what if the fire is in the room the hose is in since you can't fill the hose until you pull it outside all the way?

[@FarmCraft101]

Still better than nothing!

[@EleyCycleWorks]

Your idea for a sprinkler system should do the trick for the utility room. You are not likely to be able to think of every possibility, but you are well on your way to holding out until your local fire service can finish the fight if needed. I would think that the steps you have already taken should reduce insurance costs enough to pay you back over a few years.

[@notsoserious0944]

err...why not braze a fitting with the tapered pipe threads already there?

[@AngeliqueKaga]

WHY DID YOU DO THAT?-----THAT WAS FREAKING HOT!

[@ironmatic1]

Do you know what your nozzle pressure is? That's extremely inadequate flow for a 1.5" line. Maybe add a Honda pump? I would be interested to see the stream from "wide open", because that's where the nozzle is actually supposed to be used, it's not meant to be used partially closed, it's supposed to have enough pressure available to have a long throw while being fully opened.

[@tallswede80]

why did you have to change the galvanized pipe to brass?

[@FarmCraft101]

Galvanized pipe doesn't last, the internal diameter ends up clogged with corrosion in just a few years. At least that's been my experience. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZvWfZl9Z5J6d7c

[@michaelmolter8828]

Wouldn’t the brass / galvanized connection cause a reaction?

[@MagdaWu]

No, brass is safe with every material, copper will react with galvanized.

[@teamja1088]

An honest and curious question: Instead of buying brass, why not just use type L copper with adapters sweated on to make your connections? Copper fittings and a length of pipe would have been many times cheaper and cutting, deburring, sweating would have only taken an hour.

[@MagdaWu]

Copper would react with galvanized, and expansion tank connection is galvanized steel. Also copper is prone to erosion and the solder (contains lead) is harmful.

[@teamja1088]

@@MagdaWu Modern plumbing solder does not contain any lead. The Safe Water Drinking Act prevents us from using lead solders in potable water plumbing connections and applications. In regards to the dissimilar metals argument, which you are correct in bringing up, the use of a dielectric fitting would cancel out the galvanic corrosion effects that are exhibited by a dissimilar metal connection. The dielectric fitting can be easily sourced in any nominal plumbing diameter too. I am not familiar with copper pipe erosion however, I do see pipes where I work that have become too thin from chemical attacks that are the result of poorly treated "drinking" water from the plant however, so maybe that is a concern indeed that made him use expensive brass - I just have not seen this to be a 'thing' though at the installation where I am employed.; thus, I am unaware of this as being an issue.

[@thomaswarnecke3991]

What keeps from flowing from one well into the other? Does it have back flow valves?

[@FarmCraft101]

Yep. Deep well pumps all have check valves. One way only.

[@thomaswarnecke3991]

@@FarmCraft101 Is the one way valve on the less powerful pump capable of withstanding the pressure of the stronger pump? I’m just concerned with cross contamination of the smaller well.

[@FarmCraft101]

@@thomaswarnecke3991 Yes. This isn't an unusual thing to do, hooking multiple wells together. All of them pump to the same pressure, about 50 psi.

[@thomaswarnecke3991]

Thanks! Love your show. Very informative and your unique sense of humor! Iq have always fixed everything. I am a master certified technician, an EMT, A MCSE, CCDA, and a A+ computer technician . I also am an Apple tech. I have a certification in Project Management and worked as a Field project manager. I have many certs in electrical and electronics. Im a Above average DIYer in most fields. Your show interests me. Very much. Keep it up. I am now disabled and retired, though i still putter around.

[@mitchellman4846]

Why does galvanized crud up like that

[@drmkiwi]

See previous video, but because it's steel it rusts. Cheers, David.

[@FarmCraft101]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZvWfZl9Z5J6d7c

[@michaelmolter8828]

I hate tape. Always had a roughly 20% joint leak rate with tape. The BlueMonster PTFE white dope works way better. Haven’t had a single leak with dope on NPT threads yet.

[@FarmCraft101]

Interesting. I've heard many plumbers like pipe dope. Personally, i've tried pipe dope several times and I've had a couple leaks, and I hate dealing with the mess. Don't think I ever tried BlueMonster though. I continue to have good success with teflon tape, so I'll probably stick with that, though I'm sure your stuff works well. Cheers.

[@michaeljones6832]

im not sure teflon (ptfe) is non toxic

[@denniscote4040]

As you noticed but to say it would not be good to turn on the hose without it being outside.

[@FarmCraft101]

Yep, very true. I should make a video of turning that hose on without extending it first! lol

[@denniscote4040]

FarmCraft101 at least extend out the door first.

[@igdes1]

Wish I could say screw a lot.

[@AW-Services]

Ebay fire hose is shit. It leaks and isn't that tough. You'd be better using a wall mounted building fire hose ideally 25mm

[@spfldmilkman]

Lots of screwing things together and no Johnson jokes :(

[@royreynolds108]

I cringed when you used pipe wrenches on the hex brass fittings made for flat jaws. If you have to use serrated teeth jaws, put some old plastic or thin wood between the teeth and the brass to protect the brass. I used to work on equipment with brass fittings and would NEVER be caught using pipe or serrated tooth jaws on brass.

[@asheradimaranan7877]

Don't try this at home this is dangerous to the kids and family

[@hotshottocoolu2794]

I think you're the smartest guy that I know why waste a Time when you could rent an excavator big enough to move that s*** in 2 to 3 hours I get into one of make a video about it but don't you think your time is worth more money then? trying to make a Contraption to move that boiler

[@justplaywoman2]

FIRE BURNS DOWN POWER LINES NO ELECTRICITY I WENT GAS POWERED FIRE PUMP 440psi coonect to the WELL WATERAX BB-4 FIRE PUMP $7,500 google

[@trafalgar22a8]

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