How to get your Carbureted Engine to start faster.

[@FastMonty]

Subscribe for more, click here; kzbin.info Join the "Full Monty Crew" to support the channel, and get priority tech support! kzbin.info/door/B2KWiUuWR_OFpJtXS94bCQjoin OR, Get your FMG hat, three color combos to choose from, check em out here; www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage

[@somethingtrulyhorrifying]

Badass car! I run the stock mechanical fuel pump on the 460 in my 74 f100, putting a check valve between the pump and carb has to be one of the absolute best mods under 10 dollars I've ever done. I also have a clear filter between the check valve and the carb so I can see what's going on. She fires off faster than fuel injection even after sitting for several weeks. Once warmed up, you barely have enough time to twist the key before it starts.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! And, thanks for the testimonial... makes you wonder why we didn't have check valves from the factory, huh? Thanks again!

[@termonostruman]

you shlould have cv before the pump, and filter should be aleays before c valve and pump, becasue if debris stick to it they will stop working.

[@johnmccarthy2268]

For three years, I have been plagued with an intermittent engine that would die under heavy fuel demands. Now I know why, and can’t thank you enough! When my electric fuel pump was off, the fuel pump on my 1948 Lincoln V12 could not suck enough fuel through my Carter fuel pump. FINALLY with the bypass/check-valve installed, my issue is over!

[@FastMonty]

That's awesome! So glad I could help. Thanks for the comment!

[@cherokeecook1260]

I smiled when he broke out the engineering paper

[@FastMonty]

Ha! I do that a lot... thanks for the comment!

[@nomadicconquistador7-5-39]

A simpler system is using a "Facet" fuel pump 4-5 psi. It's a flow through bypass when off (not pumping). The body is grounded to chassis with only one wire to a momentary switch, then routed to switched keyed sourced fuse. Once the carburetor is primed the fuel pump takes over not starving the motor of fuel. This would eliminate check valves, tees, and additional fuel hoses. Great alternative, well executed video.. cherry ride!!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks for the tip! And, thanks for the comment!

[@eddieconerly1222]

Man I’ve looked at a lot of videos about fuel vapor vapor lock everything you go to the south 83 F150 control valve never heard of it I’m glad I met you

[@FastMonty]

Glad I could help! Let us know how you eventually solve the issue. Thanks again!

[@theoldyoungman]

This is hands down the best channel for people that have no idea what they are doing😅 slowly bringing back my car to life.

[@FastMonty]

Awesome! Thanks for the comment!

[@Bige4u]

In addtion to everything seen here with a carbureted setup, a great thing to add would be a +12v 30a relay and fuse with an adjustable seconds timer built in, so no more using a manually operated switch to turn the electric pump on and off, convinient since you might forget to turn the manually operated switch off while driving. With the circuit properly hooked up, turn the ignition key on(no start), the relay will activate the electric pump for 3-5 seconds, then automatically turns the pump off, the timer resets itself after all power is removed, like key off, that should provide just enough time to fill the fuel bowls for quicker starts, hot or cold. Much like what the ECM does for EFI cars, when you turn the key on, the pump is primed for a few seconds, then turns off, of course the ECM waits for an RPM signal or oil pressure to turn the electric pump back on to run the engine for saftely reasons, same principle here.

[@FastMonty]

I love it! Thanks for the comment!

[@akawireguy1197]

A better and simpler system is an interior mounted momentary contact switch. You engage the switch until you hear the pump come up against pressure, which means the bowls are full, then when you let go of the switch it automatically shuts off. Now your bowls are full and your engine is ready to start. Here is Arizona the gasohol is evaporated in a day so running the electric pump via the momentary contact switch is a normal part of my start up routine. I run only rotary electric pumps as it seems no amount of money can buy a good quality mechanical fuel pump any more.

[@jeffrey4547]

i can let my rig set for a month no problems never had problem even after 3 months of sitting it fires right up running a 450 hp 454 crate engine then put an intake and 850 on it that really made it come alive

[@FastMonty]

Wow, you're an anomaly. Most carbs need to crank for a while... nice upgrade!

[@jeffrey4547]

@@FastMonty i like the holleys but u can build up a quadro jet by drilling it out too a bigger size like the 600 to a 800 those work the best all around street carb but i hate the edelbrock carbs they suck real bad i have a few that i pulled off cars because they hate to keep fuel in it those u have to crank putting fuel regulator helps a lot on start having the right pressures keeps the needle valve from leaking back or get worn

[@BlueRidgeJ79]

Thanks, man! Didn't even know these check valves existed. Definitely need a couple for my old cars. Maybe I'll be able to leave the air cleaners on permanently!

[@FastMonty]

Ohhh yeah! No more priming those bowls! Keep us posted. Thanks for the comment!

[@vincespinelli6476]

The Carter brass check valves have a 0.5 PSI pressure drop across them (to overcome the spring). This doesn't really matter for a Holley / Autolite (Summit) / or a Q-Jet, but if you're running an Edelbrock / Carter, then your regulator should be set at 4 PSI (low end) or 5 PSI (high end). You'll overcome the floats and start bleeding fuel into the carb at 6 PSI. Anything less than 4 and you risk starving the carb. Best bet is to temporarily set your idle for 1200 RPM (or have a buddy hold his foot on the gas to get it up around 1200 RPM - assuming you have a mechanical pump that provides full pressure/flow at 1000-1200 RPM and up - they tend to drop off a little at 600-700 idle RPM). Anyway - the check should be between the regulator and the carb inlet; set the regulator to 4-1/2 to 5-1/2 pounds at 1200 RPM, and then you can be sure that you'll see 4 to 5 pounds at the actual carburetor inlet.

[@termonostruman]

they dony solve problems unless your pump valves are nor working

[@anomalous9448]

Just did this to my 67 GS400. The car would take 30 to 40 seconds to start due to no fuel in the carb. My only issue was when I tied the fuels up out of the way, one of them had a kink so I had to extend one of the lines with a loop. Should have known better. Guess I was in a hurry. Thanks for the video.

[@FastMonty]

That's awesome! Glad it helped! Thanks for leaving your story.

[@johnmilner7603]

If you don’t have an electric fuel pump as I do in my 70 Z/28 and you want an instant start, you can add fuel down the vent tube to get fuel into the bowl if you drive your car something like once/wk.

[@FastMonty]

Yeah, you could do that... but, I wanted a way to "get in, and go". Thanks for the comment!

[@ms79ta]

That's what I resorted to.

[@termonostruman]

the guy juts want to turn the key and go.

[@gmans7859]

I wired a 'tickle' switch in line with my Oil Pressure Cutoff (no oil pressure, no pump) set up to prime the system. Works great. Also handy to check for any leaks after doing work before ever starting the engine.

[@FastMonty]

Very cool idea. Thanks for sharing!

[@davelowets]

If you did have an issue where the oil pressure would suddenly go away for some reason, the damage to the bottom-end bearings would already be done by the time the fuel in the carb bowl(s) ran out, and the engine would quit. I don't believe in an oil pressure cut off. I DO however have a red shift light pointed directly towards my right retina, and connected up to an oil pressure switch, that will instantly temporarily blind me in one eye if my oil pressure goes away. I can react faster that waiting for a fuel bowl to drain out, and get the motor shut down much quicker that way. I'd also rather be in control of the shutdown, rather that it be done for me, in the event of a dangerous situation that could end up real bad if it's shutdown at the wrong time. I'd rather roast the bottom end, than be killed or injured because the engine quit at the wrong moment. If you are hell bent on an automatic system, hook it up to cut the ignition instead.... it would be instantaneous that way.

[@gregschultz2029]

Very Nice Job On Video,Didn’t Think Of The Check Valve Idea , I Always Did The Pump And Crank Method , Till It Started Deal On The Old Tin Indians ,Thank You !!!

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Greg! Yeah, I remember the days of cranking forever, which are now long gone.

[@rosemcbirney5123]

Facet 12 v neg earth if leaving your manual pump still on motor make sure you get low pressure 4.5 to 5 flow thru means intake you can blow thru outlet you can’t blow thru I only use to prime carb using a momentary switch once I take my finger off the button it’s dead and it should start no need for a pressure gauge as well hope this makes sense Vince

[@FastMonty]

Yes, only if it's a free flow pump with the power off.... and you can blow through it. Otherwise you need to circumvent it the way I did. Thanks!

[@nassimkoubeissi5814]

that a smart idea for check valve can you install the electric pump parallel to the mechanical pump with check valve directly at the input of the carb ? that way if the mechanical pump fails u can use the electric pump to drive u back home .

[@FastMonty]

Good question... yes you can. But, you'd need a check valve in each line, one from the electric pump, and one from the Mechanical. That's almost the same as what I did. Have fun!

[@ZacHarYMetaLHiCkBenn]

Yea. Once oil is pumped. The lifters stop ticking. My 85 power ram w150 5.2 318. Sometimes you can a lifter click at warm up. Then goes away after oil been pumped and warmed up . sometimes it don't tick.

[@FastMonty]

Yup, especially if the engine has been sitting for a while. Thanks for the comment!

[@curtlyons9235]

Such a clean build deserves some Fragola AN lines and fittings. Saw on another comment that it is coming. Can’t wait to see it! As a side bar if you use ethanol blend fuel I wouldn’t recommend a check valve as it will be a carb tuning nightmare and possibly a faulty check valve nightmare (especially on the idle circuitry), but if I know I’m gonna store mine over the winter I pickle my carbs with a blend of marvel mystery oil and wd40. Just a thought.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Curt! Great tips... much appreciated. (I love Marvel Mystery oil too) I have now upgraded to a full AN System because I changed over to a FiTech throttle body. Here's that playlist... kzbin.info/aero/PL0VCtZe2W6eYFayoNVWpqMIwsXBbZQKqU (I did some crazy fuel pump plumbing, which I'll be changing) Thanks for the comment!

[@vincespinelli6476]

I've got a Carter check valve (looks to be the same as in this video) about 2 inches from the carb inlet - piped with brass to a pressure regulator just a few inches away... mechanical, connected by about 3 feet of nickel-copper hard line has return line going back to tank. Check valve works like a champ. Car can sit for a month and 3 moderate whacks with my foot gets enough fuel into the system to fire up immediately even with modern ethanol blended (10%) fuels.

[@playsportfun3356]

Good idea. But spinning your oil pump without explosive force on your bearings is actually a good thing not a bad thing. It's worse on your bearings if your engine starts immediately. Minor like you say. But worse. The delay is Harder on your starter but better for your bearings. Which one is easier to replace?

[@FastMonty]

Good points. Thanks.

[@speedtriprr537]

Just bought a 67 impala, might install one of these!

[@FastMonty]

Congrats! Yeah, super helpful with starting... have fun!

[@bormatnor]

very helpful and helpful with answering questions on my rebuild

[@FastMonty]

Awesome! Thanks Russ!

[@stevenb3027]

Monty as a suggestion in the video it appears your fuel line in very close to the exhaust pipe i would at least wrap the line with a heat shield sleeve to protect the line accidently touching the pipe and causing a fire. also its just me but i don't like those type of fuel hoses and i have converted to a braided line with a Teflon liner in side (PTFE) as they don't degrade it time due to the gas /ethanol content along with providing a better anti chaff barrier , also my connections are all AN fittings, cost a little more then the average set up but i feel its worth it long term again thanks for your video's

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Steven! As you know, I love AN hoses and fittings too... Sounds like a future video to me! Thanks again for your comment!

[@dadeboy305wh]

Great idea do you have video on how you put the electric pump and mechanical I want to do that to my olds 350 and was wondering how I was goin to lol

[@FastMonty]

I have a couple videos about fuel injection pumps... but not the Carter pump you see in this video.

[@ShawnWasBorn2Ride]

Great idea & explanation. Im currently thumbing through a search to diagnose my 1980 gmc 454 with a holley carb. Came across your vid and have to see whats going on. Thanks! And if you or anyone else had a minute, im having starting issues. Only wants to start with brake cleaner/starting fluid, then once it fires up, it runs fine. I dont do it much because i know the possible damage that stuff can do to an engine. Just threw that out there. But hey, thanks again. Gonna subscribe and check out more vids. I wanna see this car now that i heard it

[@FastMonty]

Welcome to the channel Shawn! Before you use the brake cleaner, I assume the engine is cold? Does it start fine when it's warmed up? If it only happens when cold, how long do you crank the engine until you decide to use the brake cleaner trick? Do you smell fuel at the carb, before using the brake cleaner? That's a start of the questions... :)

[@MexhomieXlll]

I put gas on mine to start it

[@steverowe1728]

Question Mike Is an electric fuel pump even needed if the check valve is installed? BTW New to your channel. Love the info and especially your sweet car.

[@FastMonty]

Hey Steve, welcome to the channel! Good point... first try a check valve, if that doesn't help, then add an axillary pump. And, thanks! See ya next episode!

[@anteneupitra]

yoy can get a manual pump to prime it...

[@FastMonty]

Really? Why? Where shall we put it, under our seat?

[@danielreigada1542]

Nice video and had some great ideas. I have a 1984 Honda CRX (totally different vehicle but same basic concept) that runs beautifully, except since it has a carburetor and mechanical fiel pump, it takes a lot of cranking to get it going when it's been sitting. I had thought that it was due to the evaporation of the Ethanol blend fuel and did not realize that it could also be due to fuel running back to the tank.

[@FastMonty]

Glad I could help give you some ideas... hope a check valve does the trick for you! Thanks for the comment.

[@ms79ta]

That explains why I pump my gas pedal about 20 times every spring. 👍

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Yup! No fuel to pump in the bowls. Thanks for the comment!

[@ms79ta]

@@FastMonty I just started it a few hours ago. Now I'm ready to roll this year. 🙂

[@FastMonty]

@@ms79ta Yeesssssss!

[@justinyoung1542]

Great Video! I'm considering doing this on my Barracuda. I see a lot of forums and so forth recommend running an electric fuel pump off a relay. This was obviously not done in this video but I just wanted to get everyone's opinion on this. If the pump is just going to be used for priming, is it really necessary?

[@FastMonty]

Good question Justin... to Relay, or not to Relay, the eternal question... the answer lies in the amp draw of the pump, and your comfort level of said amp draw through your circuit. My current pump, now an in tank modern Camaro SS pump, takes about 10 amps. So, it's on a relay. Hope that helps!

[@andriuskairaitis8548]

Hello, Great video. I noticed you are not using the hardware supplied with the Carter electric pump for your electrical connection. How have you attached the wires to that Carter fuel pump?

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Andrius... In all honesty, I don't remember what was included with the pump. It's pretty simple, one lead is 12V, the other lead is to ground. I wired the 12V to a toggle switch, which is wired to 12V keyed. When key is on, I can turn the pump on until the pump starts to strain, telling me the bowls are full. Or, just leave it on. Hope that helps.

[@rosemcbirney5123]

You can get flow thru electric pumps

[@FastMonty]

That would make more sense... got any suggestions as to which one?

[@pedropedro2837]

Thank you

[@FastMonty]

Welcome! Thanks for the comment!

[@johngodwin7902]

Will the electric pump push the fuel through the mechanical pump?

[@FastMonty]

Yes. Thanks!

[@termonostruman]

looks like so,..

[@FastMonty]

@@termonostruman Easy?

[@nathanrice1796]

Check valve is a good idea. I wonder if it restricts fuel flow at high rpm?

[@FastMonty]

Good question... no, it does not. :) Thanks!

[@davidforte964]

Hey there Monty I came back to this video due to getting foot cramps ha ha. My 80 Pontiac 301 T/A has this issue, and I don’t like anything electric. Is it possible to just install the check valve?

[@FastMonty]

Absolutely! I think I mentioned it in the video, but I'd install it in between your carb and pump. Let us know how it goes!

[@kennyray9252]

Great video and I understand the check valve but Why not just bypass the mechanical fuel pump?

[@FastMonty]

Thanks. You can absolutely do that. I wanted a back up pump. And, the electric pump is on the annoyingly loud side, so I didn't like it running all the time. That said, I'm now fuel injected and running a modern Camaro SS internal tank pump, which is awesome. ha, ha... have fun!

[@kennyray9252]

@@FastMonty Thanks

[@johnmccarthy2268]

May I ask what is the pressure rating for the check valve? I have a 1948 Lincoln that operates the mechanical pump at only 2-4 lbs.

[@FastMonty]

I have no idea? Maybe reach out to Carter? Good luck!

[@termonostruman]

chexck valve wyll not solve the problem but you can try

[@johnw6498]

Awesome video. Lots of useful info clear and well presented

[@FastMonty]

Thanks John, much appreciated.

[@johnkennedy8452]

Nice proplem to have solved . As always Great Video.👍

[@FastMonty]

Thanks John!

[@ednaheiman1736]

If you could help me out with some advice here, I got this fuel pump on my car but now I can’t get it to start. Is there a way I got a primary or something? I’m putting a lot of starter fluid in the carburetor and pumping the heck out of the gas pedal. It’s a 66 cutlass

[@FastMonty]

Did it start before putting the electric pump in? If so, is the pump pumping in the correct direction? I the check valve in the correct direction? Sorry, tough to help over chat...

[@ednaheiman1736]

@@FastMonty thanks you I finally got it. Just took forever to get that gas back up to the pump.

[@FastMonty]

@@ednaheiman1736 Awesome!

[@torobravo8023]

Excellent video, thanks for sharing 👍

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Toro!

[@billmiller5075]

Good job Mike, I’ll have to try that on mine

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! Yeah, makes it way easier to "get in, and go!"...

[@christiansilbernagel261]

so did you use the electric pump for just priming, in video you said you turned it off and drove it to see how it did. Did you use it for priming and turn it back on when running through the gears?

[@FastMonty]

Yeah, so the idea was to just use it for priming, initially. But, I had to run it ALL the time, until I built the bypass in this video. (I don't use it at all now, cuz I have fuel injection) But, it worked! Hope that helps.

[@rajeshkhanna924]

Great video, this explains a lot on my 66 chevelle!

[@FastMonty]

Great! I'm glad it helped... thanks for the comment!

[@Truther00]

U can eat out off that engine bay 😂

[@FastMonty]

Ha! Yes, sir! Thanks!

[@mikeladuca289]

Thanks

[@FastMonty]

Welcome!

[@Powerhousegarage406]

I noticed around 4:38 you show to put the check between the mechanical pump and the carb, If you have a return line. Would a better option to have the check closer to the tank so fuel can't get back? Or, would the fuel just drain back through the return line?

[@FastMonty]

Great point. I don't remember if I mentioned that I changed my mechanical fuel pump to a Carter non-return line version. So, if you have a return line pump, the check valve should be between the pump and the carb. Hope that helps.

[@Powerhousegarage406]

@FastMonty Thanks for the response! It's not that I don't understand, but I'm just curious why in between the pump and the carb? Could you explain why it's a better option? Sorry for all the questions.

[@FastMonty]

@@Powerhousegarage406 Sure... the return line needs to be able to return to the tank. So, if the main line is able to drain itself, it will, through the return line. If there's no return line, it doesn't matter where you put the check valve. (The mechanical pump is also relatively low, and level with the tank, so, not to much fuel will return to the tank when sitting around, with the check valve just after the mechanical pump, going to the carb) hope that helps.

[@Powerhousegarage406]

@@FastMonty yes that makes sense now! I'm going to try this on my 70' gto. I'll let you know how it works. Thanks 👍

[@FastMonty]

@@Powerhousegarage406 Awesome! Have fun!

[@roberttelford7932]

Thanks for posting. Really smart solution.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Robert!

[@b2ja03]

This has me curious. I don’t have an issue starting when cold at all but, when warm, there’s issues. Currently I’m running a glass fuel filter and when I shut the car off I can pop the hood and watch fuel bubble in the filter. This has also caused the vehicle to stall on occasion. Not sure if it’s a vapor lock issue or not? I have noticed from the factory, the steel fuel line runs right by the exhaust manifold, then turns to rubber and goes to the pump. 67 gto.

[@FastMonty]

Great question... it certainly sounds like heat soak/vapor lock. What would I do? I'd add a heat barrier. First option and easiest solution, get this sheath for fuel lines, www.amazon.com/dp/B000E267M4?ref=exp_fastmontysgarage_dp_vv_d&th=1 You should be able to disconnect the fuel line before the filter, and slide this all the way down over the metal line. Option 2, Wrap it with DEI's header wrap, www.amazon.com/dp/B00B82XA3S?ref=exp_fastmontysgarage_dp_vv_d&th=1 Option 3, re-locate the fuel line, using AN hose. Hope that helps, please let me know how it goes!

[@davelowets]

That IS vapor lock, and do yourself a HUGE solid, and immediately get RID of that glass fuel filter. I personally know of 1 buddy that has had his car go down in a blaze off glory because that glass fuel filter vibrated against some part of the engine and it broke, sprayed fuel everywhere, and the car burned to the ground when the fuel ignited from the hot exhaust headers. I've "heard" of it happening to endless others in internet stories also. If you HAVE to have that glass filter, make sure that you mount it SOLIDLY on BOTH side of the fuel line that enters AND leaves the filter, so that there is NO way possible that the glass part can vibrate OR bang against something when it gets jarred around by the normal bumps and motions of driving a vehicle. Personally, I'd just ditch the glass jobby altogether. Better safe than sorry, given the fact that those glass type filter HAVE consumed many cars before... 😬 💣 🔥

[@freysingera]

So what i was figuring cuz mine takes forever to start, why not put a check valve right after the tank so that the fuel pump can basically pull all that's in the lines to start the car then while warming up possibly have a small air bubble n then be fine so then all the pump has to pump is from tank to check valve

[@FastMonty]

Yup, but it also depends if you have a return line on your mechanical pump. If not that method would definitely help. Thanks for the comment!

[@stevenspoltore8868]

Hi Mike, why do you run both mechanical pump and electric in your car?

[@FastMonty]

Hi Steven... sorry if I wasn't clear in the video, but I use the electric pump to fill the bowls before start up. Originally I was only going to use the electric pump as a back up to the mechanical, but quickly figured out I had to run it all the time. That started to aggravate me, because it's not quiet. Now that I'm filming driving adventures, I can hear it... so, in goes the check valve, and I can now turn it off. Crazy, I know. So, yes, you can remove the mechanical pump, add a block off plate, and rely on the electric pump, full time. :) Thanks for your question!

[@sanchoramirez8357]

Great videos man. But plz blink once in a while. Creeps me out😂😂😂😂

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Brother... yeah, I have a hard time remembering to blink. bahahahaaa Thanks!

[@LEGUESSCY]

Hey Monty why even keep your mechanical fuel pump in when you have the electric one what are the pros and cons if any ? also did you have to toggle the electric fuel pump or did you do it so you wouldn't have to hear it when your driving. I'm getting ready to go electric just wonder which way to go about things, love the ride and the Vids 👍🏿 #ponchopower

[@FastMonty]

Good question Sean... at first, I added the electric fuel pump to fill the bowls, for quick starts. And just use it as a back up to the Mechanical. But, I didn't realize I needed to bypass the electric pump, to turn it off. Hence this video. Hope that helps! Thanks for the compliments! See ya!

[@daviemac1000]

What I dont get is , if you have a non return valve , why the need to prime the carb ?

[@FastMonty]

You might not need to prime the carb at all... it'll depend on how long the car sits. You're fighting two things when the car sits... one, the fuel draining back to the tank out of the line, and two, the fuel evaporating out of the bowls. So, in my opinion, a check valve is mandatory, where a prime pump is optional. Make sense?

[@termonostruman]

evaporation

[@mattvorhees6055]

Most all mechanical fuel pumps have check valves. I think you have a different problem. Check out your fuel tank vent. You can prime the bowls at the vent tube.

[@FastMonty]

Maybe Matt... all I know is, my carb fires immediately, no matter how long it sits. (Because of the electric fuel pump) There might be an issue with the Mechanical pump, but, it's brand new. Thanks for the comment!

[@mattvorhees6055]

@@FastMonty I've got 2 motors running quick fuel double pumpers a 1 with berry grant double pumper. 1 aeromotive pump and 2 mopar performance pumps. All 3 have aeromotive fuel pressure regulators. The will all fire up immediately with 2 pumps of the accelerator after sitting for 3 months. I have had problems with carter and Holley pumps.

[@FastMonty]

@@mattvorhees6055 Thanks for sharing! I'm jealous of how many motors you have... ha, ha. If I'm reading this correctly, all three have electric fuel pumps? Which would make sense why they all fire up immediately. Good stuff... thanks for the comment!

[@mattvorhees6055]

@@FastMonty there all mechanical. When I use electric fuel pumps on carbs when they have a power adder. Its expensive done correctly. They need 2 returns and fuel pump controller. If this is not done the fuel gets so hot the the engine will quit running. Obviously it varies with how much fuel is in the tank.

[@FastMonty]

@matt vorhees Ahhh, that's interesting. Apparently not all mechanical pumps are created equal. 😀 I've had no issues with my set up... thanks for sharing!

[@lordsauto]

I guess u could just fill the bowls with a squirt bottle to prime the carb after storage or sitting a week.

[@FastMonty]

Ha! You totally could, ... but, I'm lazy, and would much rather flip a switch, ha, ha... thanks!

[@Beast2011ps]

Why can’t the mechanic fuel pump be removed and just run a low pressure electric fuel pump? I did that on my 1981 C10 and I didn’t have any issues.

[@FastMonty]

That works too! I just wanted some redundancy. Thanks!

[@frekkledipped]

Thanks much I hear its better to be a bit smaller for carbs as big bogs down the engine when floored, to much air & gas for take off.Ive been talking with Jeff Kauffman he says a 950cfm carb is OK for hot rodding, 750 is OK for cruising. Seems distorted

[@FastMonty]

Well, there you have it... if Jeff Kauffman recommends a bigger carb, then go bigger. :) I agree with him, if your carb can't breathe, ie it's undersized, you'll always have too much fuel.

[@curtlyons9235]

Smokey Yunick talked a lot about this back in the day. It is a fickle line between use/volumetric efficiency/altitude/etc. There is a “scientific” formula that says Carb size equals CI x RPM X Volumetric Efficiency all divided by 3456 (plus or minus 10% or so for density) but take of that what you will. It will get you in the ballpark and shows that most people over carb their stuff. By that math a street rod with a 350 small block at 6500 rpms with 90% volumetric efficiency (a well built street rod) only needs a 600 CFM carb and I’ll submit to that. Society and magazines say you have to have a 4150 double pumper for the same setup 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️. It’s all subjective I guess.

[@curtlyons9235]

Also to be noted is the discharge nozzles and accelerator pump can cause a bog when floored, but i won’t go down that rabbit hole lmao.

[@FastMonty]

@@curtlyons9235 Yup, another reason to switch the Fuel Injection. :) Thanks Curt!

[@curtlyons9235]

@@FastMonty absolutely. Way less headache especially if you go cross country lol. Nobody likes tuning a carb in the Walmart parking lot in Colorado. Ask me how I know 🤣🤣

[@davidmuley164]

Hi, a question, then do you Teo pumps, one eléctric and another one mechanical?? Greetings from Spain

[@FastMonty]

Hey David, from Spain... welcome to the channel. My setup uses both. The electrical pump, which is operated by a switch to fill up the bowls, and act as a backup should the mechanical pump fail. Hope that helps!

[@davidmuley164]

@@FastMonty I love it, I'm going to do it in my 1975 Cadillac Eldorado, he has a quadrajet, thank you very much, and every two or three days it's horrible to start..

[@davidmuley164]

@@FastMonty So, the electric pump feeds the mechanical pump, and then from the mechanical pump to the carburetor....is that so?

[@FastMonty]

@@davidmuley164 That's correct. However, if you have a fuel return line on the mechanical pump, it might not work. You'll either have to buy a mechanical pump with NO return, or cap it off, or just start with a check valve in between the carb and the mechanical pump. Hope that helps.

[@BottleJackBuddy]

Thanks for sharing.

[@FastMonty]

Thanks for watching!

[@63grandsport11]

👍 Was that Carter pump near an exhaust pipe and the rubber fuel line even closer.

[@FastMonty]

Ha! The pump is actually closer than the fuel line... BUT, that's long gone now. Since I'm fuel injected, I installed this ... kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6SZkpWLqdeJiKs Thanks for the comment!

[@63grandsport11]

@@FastMonty Thats good. I watch corvettes burn down all the time. I'm just super cautious about fire.

[@FastMonty]

@@63grandsport11 Yeah, say no to bon fires. ha, ha... thanks for the comments!

[@bengreen6811]

Hey Monty, Do you have video's of when you did the body work and paint on the GTO?

[@FastMonty]

Hey Ben, good question... I WISH I had filmed the entire build, I'd be KZbin famous. Ha, ha... so, no, I don't have any body work vids. However, you should go follow Kevin Tetz kzbin.info/www/bejne/eajFaGWnh7lrnrM I bought his training system a long time ago, but it seems most of his knowledge is now on KZbin. Have fun, and be patient!

[@Mikey-Likes-I.T]

I will do this to my 1957 chevy truck, hella simpler and quicker than trying to just run the electric fuel pump all of the time. did you use an inline fuse for the pump? I was thinking of doing something trick like using the choke switch inside the truck (since it has an electrical choke on it now ) it would be perfect.

[@FastMonty]

Love it! I did not run an in line fuse... but, a damn good idea! Love your stealth switch idea. Have fun, and thanks for the comment!

[@Mikey-Likes-I.T]

@@FastMonty thank you for making this video that shows us average guys like me a simple solution to this problem with running a carburetor.

[@FastMonty]

@@Mikey-Likes-I.T You're welcome, Mike! Glad it helps. Have fun!

[@rogerharrelljr1935]

Hey Mike, I have a question for you, I know you switched to fitech, would you be interested in selling me your old carb? Would absolutely LOVE to run it on my 406” Pontiac 400 I’m building for my Dads old 75 Formula Firebird. He passed away, and sold the car about 2-3 years before he passed, so I tracked the car down and bought it back. Purchased another 1969 YS code 400 and that’s what I’ve been building. I currently have an old school Holley 800cfm spreadbore. Very old school Holley. Need something a little better. Any interest in make a deal on it?

[@FastMonty]

Hey Roger, thanks for reaching out, and congrats on getting your Firebird back. That's an awesome story. Unfortunately, I sold it last year. Good luck on the hunt... or, you can skip all that and put a FiTech unit on there. :)

[@rogerharrelljr1935]

@@FastMonty Mike I’m gonna be completely honest with you. I have a 9 year old daughter I’m raising alone, so money is already tight, but believe me, I’d have ALREADY went with FI if I could afford it! I was also wanting to run a set of Kauffman aluminum D ports as well, but I had to go with factory Pontiac heads, I did buy a set of 6x-4’s that I had shaved to make 9.5-9.6:1 on a flat top piston. I don’t plan on using race gas or anything, just nitro v power 93, and maybe a bottle of hood race gas concentrate that muldowney owns. Mix 4oz with 1 gallon of 93 and the race gas purple ultra can they sell with make 1 gal of 93 mixed with that 4oz of the concentrate bump the ovtance to 101 (roughly) and that’ll only be used on my weekends when I hit the strip. I bought the Holley 800 spreadbore because I’m using a edelbrock performer intake, it’s a spreadbore, but of course you knew that. I do plan on rebuilding the Holley though. Currently it’s better 67 in the front with 86’s in the rear, which may work fine for my street/strip car. I’m just looking for atleast a 850. Now my 800 spreadbore is 800 cfm and double pumper. Do you have Facebook Mike so maybe I could messages you some questions when I run into a few. I got off work a little early yesterday and went to my garage and made some more progress on the engine though, next I’ll be purchasing a Holley rebuild kit, perhaps with a couple different jets to test back to back to see what my car and engine likes the best. My 6x-4s should flow roughly 220-230 cfm on intake is what they quoted me on it, so I feel for the money I spent, I came out really good, next big purchase will ABSOLUTELY be a set of Kauffman aluminum d ports I’m thinking in the 72cc combustion chamber size. I’m running a Spotts Performance HCP01 cam specs as follows (@.50” int. 224* exh. 303* adv. duration int. 298* exh. 303* LSA 114* Intake centerline at 109* When I install 1.65 roller rockers, my numbers will increase to lift on int. .513” lift on exhaust .536” or I could 1.6 roller lifter and that net me .497” on int. And .591” on exhaust. Rpm range of this cam is from 1800-58-6000 rpm. I think this would work beautifully! Let me know your input on this. Thanks again man!

[@FastMonty]

@@rogerharrelljr1935 Yeah Brother, everyone has a budget. (Both Time, and Money) I think you're on the right path... but, I'm not an expert on Head and Cam matches... I highly recommend asking Kaufman what cam they'd recommend, if you're going to go that route... even eventually, as the cam is harder to replace than heads. If you stick with stock heads make sure they're slotted or 1.6 or 1.65 rockers. Have fun!

[@brianotieno4215]

Hi, what color code is that paint of yours. Its black to the camera but actually green.

[@FastMonty]

Good question Brian, it's custom ... I call it 2am Green. (The factory color was Midnight Green) Thanks!

[@brianotieno4215]

@@FastMonty Thanks alot, I'll go try find that color code and have it on my custom built bike. Hope it will look dapper like yours.

[@FastMonty]

@@brianotieno4215 Ha! I'm sure it will! (FYI, it's Chrysler Color code PGZ)

[@robertgeary7520]

Great video 👍

[@FastMonty]

Thanks Robert!

[@charlesowens8319]

you can get a fuel filter with a check valve that fits in a holly crb .

[@charlesowens8319]

from napa

[@FastMonty]

For those that have Holly carbs... what a great idea! Thanks Charles, hope to see more awesome advice in the future... see ya!

[@FastMonty]

@@charlesowens8319 Got a part number to share?

[@MexhomieXlll]

Nice i should get a holly crb then

[@MexhomieXlll]

You know the link to get?

[@pinzguy4937]

I would think that you could turn the pump off as soon as the engine starts, as the bowls are full.

[@FastMonty]

Only if you have a bypass, as I discussed. Otherwise the Mechanical pump is trying to pull through the electric pump, and it won't work. Thanks for the comment!

[@pinzguy4937]

@@FastMonty great video!

[@MM-hh5nz]

Hi, fantastic channel first of all! Did you install a fuel return and if so how did you make it? Thanks

[@FastMonty]

Thanks! Actually, I removed the return line. The Carter Mechanical pump I sourced does NOT have a return, which is why the electric pump works. Otherwise, that's why I recommend using a check valve in between the mechanical pump and carb. (If and only if, you have the forever cranking issue, some mechanical pumps have a built in check valve) Anyway, hope that helps!

[@MM-hh5nz]

I like the idea of priming with electric pump and since my C3 will not be a daily driver I see the benefit of having it, but I am just confused now with fuel return. My mechanical pump does not have a return and I was thinking of making a return line from Holley duel feed line back to tank. This would be to prevent vapor locks and to keep cool fuel flow...or am I wrong somewhere. Maybe I am just complicating too much?! Any words or wisdom is appreciated, thanks!

[@FastMonty]

@@MM-hh5nz That's two different things... one, a dual feed line just means you have a "double pumper" carb, like mine. If you're just going to use the pump to prime the bowls, like I do, you don't necessarily need a return line. Turn it on for a few seconds, let the bowls fill, turn it off. (This is also under the assumption your mechanical pump allows "flow through" pressure) Then you'll need to also plump a bypass with a check valve, like I did. Plan B, if you're planning to run the pump continuously, it'll depend on how your carb behaves with the output pressure of the pump. If it doesn't "like" it, you'll then need to add a pressure regulator, and return line. You may want to research your particular carburetor to see what the optimum input pressure is, and match it with the output pressure of an electric pump. Most electric pumps have different pressure output ranges and/or gallons per hour. Sorry, if I made it complicated... I promise it'll make more sense the more you thing about it. :) Hope that helps...

[@frekkledipped]

Is your engine a 400 bored 60 over I think you stated? If so mines being done now, but whats your carb? & CFM, C.I. of engine I think you said is 460 C.I.? Thanks loads Ive told a few fellow Pontiac owners about your vids, as Im selling parts as Im rebuilding.

[@FastMonty]

At the time of this video, it's a 400 bored 0.060" over, and stroked to 4.25". So, that's 467. My Carb was a Barry Grant Speed Demon 750, flows about 800, upgraded with annular jets, road race floats, machined horn, choke delete, and now has mechanical secondaries. (And, it's for sale. :)) Thanks for sharing the channel, and thanks for the comments.

[@frekkledipped]

@@FastMonty You bet I dont know how you came up with the idea of a YT but its a frikin life saver, your detail is by far above everyone else I've watched. Just rebuilt my front end to stock, replaced bushings etc, wow what a pain getting those cooled springs back in

[@FastMonty]

@@frekkledipped Thanks Dan. Yeah, those coils suck to put back in. I didn't have to, because I now have coil overs. ha, ha... That's the one mod I did that had no issues during install... thanks again.

[@frekkledipped]

@@FastMonty So Im doing the same thing to my engine bored 60 over 4.25 crank then I guess it will be a 467 CI?

[@FastMonty]

@@frekkledipped That's correct.

[@smoothoperator7023]

A week?? Mine wont start after sitting 12 hrs😡

[@FastMonty]

Yeah, that's the worst. Hope a check valve helps!

[@harryreeves5575]

Aren't you still pumping fuel through mechanical fuel pump when priming carburetor . It would be less work on eclectic fuel pump to by pass mechanical fuel pump when priming. You by passed electric pump but not mechanical pump when priming 😮😮😮

[@FastMonty]

Good question Harry... yes, it'll pump through the mechanical. Which is why it's also considered a "Back up" should the mechanical fail. Thanks!

[@davidcuevas788]

Cool trick

[@FastMonty]

Thanks David!

[@anteneupitra]

not TRUE.... WH4N YOU BUY THOSE CARS NEW, THEY HSADNT THOSE PROBLEMS

[@FastMonty]

But, some do now. Hence the topic.

[@frekkledipped]

Doing the math I have 729cfm, 700 cfm carb should be perfect, thats taching at 5500rpm, not sure what redline is

[@FastMonty]

sounds good, nothing wrong with going a little larger than required with the carb. But, you should be good.

[@moredataforya.7548]

Nice solution, but wrong diagnosis I think. For what it’s worth I bet the issue is the ethanol gas evaporating in the carb - not that it’s all leaking back. Leaking back wouldn’t make much sense with the way carburetor internals are situated. The fuel line may drain down but the carb bowls would not siphon out. Air would just pull in through the carb vents. And the bowls would stay full enough for a quick start. So, evaporation explains why the car doesn’t start right away. Your solution works either way though 👍🏼

[@FastMonty]

Agreed. Probably wouldn't siphon fuel from the bowls. Definitely a combination of evaporation, and the supply line emptying itself. Thanks for the comment!

[@quetzalcoatul1]

WHAT KIND OF PONTIAC ARE YOU IN SIR

[@FastMonty]

I'm sure you figured it out... but, its a 69 GTO. Thanks!

[@quetzalcoatul1]

@@FastMonty LUCKY HAHA. IM WORKING ON A 68 GP working on the dashboard wiring. Specifically the factory volt gauge thru ez wire harness. Quite a can of worms lol

[@FastMonty]

Ohhh, I know it all too well... check out this video where I explain some of the craziness you might find behind those gauges. (I know it's an alternator video, but I'm trying to get the charge light to work) Might give you some insight... kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXbSm5hjZtehjNksi=yBd2iGt0ZxUyBACX Have fun! @@quetzalcoatul1

[@johnkennedy8452]

I know what it is.😁

[@FastMonty]

Shhhh... don't tell anyone. Ha, ha...

[@craphittingthefan2360]

I see no reason to have a mechanical and electric fuel pump and why is your electric fuel pump right up next to your exhaust?

[@FastMonty]

At the time, I wanted to fill the bowls, after the car has been sitting for weeks... so, the engine starts immediately. Hence the electric fuel pump.

[@standupoathkeeper6915]

Uh ... Starter fluid or carb clean it and avoid this whole situation (minus the electric pump).....

[@FastMonty]

Uhhh, that's not the point of this video. While that stuff works, some carbs/engines will not start quickly if left unattended for a week or two. Opening the hood, removing the air cleaner, using starter fluid, starting the engine, put the air cleaner back on, close the hood... go drive. OR, Plan B, push a button, wait a couple seconds, start the car. I prefer Plan B. Thanks.

[@georgespangler1517]

Why not just use the electric and forget the manual

[@FastMonty]

Good question... Having both gave me a back up pump. Just in case one should die. Doesn't matter now, because I now have a Fuel Injection System, as you've probably noticed from my latest video releases. Ha, ha... thanks for the comment!

[@tracywagers1399]

How about a 1966 mustang

[@FastMonty]

How about it? Not sure what you're asking but, if it's carbureted, and not starting quickly after sitting for a week, you can implement the same trick. Have fun!

[@tracywagers1399]

@@FastMonty it sits all winter from October till about June and it takes forever to get it to start

[@tracywagers1399]

Would that same thing work for a 1966 mustang

[@FastMonty]

@@tracywagers1399 Yep, same check valve, and/or electric fuel pump will help immensely.

[@tracywagers1399]

@@FastMonty ok thank you

[@davelowets]

You're WAY over complicating things.... I have ONE electric fuel pump, NO check valve, a giant 1350cfm carburetor, great big -12 AN fuel lines, and i can leave the car sit all winter with fuel in the tank (infact, i FILL the fuel cell full, so there's no air in there when i store it for the winter) and fuel in the carb, and it does NOT evaporate out of the carb OR drain back to the fuel cell at all. The carb will STILL be full in the spring, i get in the car, pump the pedal twice, push the start button, and it's immediately running... 🤷

[@FastMonty]

Congrats! As discussed, I use the pump to prime the bowls, then turn it off. I use the check valves so the pump gets bypassed by the Mechanical pump. It's just the way I set it up... sounds like your pump runs full time, which is fine. I just prefer to have a back up should either pump fail. Thanks!

[@davelowets]

@FastMonty Yes, the electric pump is a Magna-fuel ProStar 500. It's actually a very good and trouble-free streetable pump, considering that it supports 2000h.p., and is/was used by NHRA Pro-Stock teams. I've had it for 11 years now, and have put MANY street miles and drag strip passes on it. I've had to rebuild it with a seal kit once during all that time, because the motor shaft seal was drying up, and fuel was starting to drip out of the weep hole on the pump body. Very inexpensive, easy, and quick to do the rebuild job. If you want to purchase a quality pump, and only have to do it once in your lifetime, look NO further than the Magna-Fuel ProStar 500. It's available with a built-in canister fuel filter with washable/replaceable element also. Bonus.

[@davelowets]

Maybe it is the fact that my fuel pump placement is below the pick-up outlet of my fuel cell, that the fuel won't drain back to the tank. I would think It would be pretty hard for the tiny amount of fuel in the carb bowls to be able to push fuel through a regulator, down a 15' hose, through the filter and pump, then up hill, and back into a large container with 15 gallons of fuel pushing down onto it.

[@FastMonty]

@@davelowets Ohhh, that does sound awesome. Thanks for sharing!

[@FastMonty]

Agreed. That would certainly help prevent the syphon from working. Thanks for sharing!@@davelowets

[@hectorortega9131]

Are you Serious rite here Bro, or just Joking?

[@FastMonty]

It's a real issue, read the comments... thanks.