Harley-Davidson Milwaukee-Eight Red Shift Cam Install | Fat Head Cycles

[@PhatboyHD88]

I have to tell ya buddy , im a HD Tech,, and must complement you on a excellent video,,, you were meticulous in pre-lube ,letting oil pump find its center ,, torque specs everything ,, very nicely done ,, and refreshing ,..you have no idea how many of these tech videos i watch and just shake my head and say “ Man what the Hell are ya doing” no prep slamming tools around banging parts around and terribly misinformed on how the project should be done right in the first place,,, so hats off to you my friend i was impressed on job well done and someone who actually gives a dam about the customer and taking pride in his job...

[@FatHeadCycles]

Wow. Thanks for the kind words. I def. take pride in what I do for my customers who come to me but I also want to ensure that my awesome viewers have the most information possible for their projects. Thanks for watching!

[@goodboyringo9716]

Phatboy HD88... Yell, and he didn't cheat us or steal any parts from us like a HD dealer does!

[@AshHol01]

PhatboyHD88 You being a HD Mech that's a pretty nice complement and you didn't have to do that for him but you did! It shows the rest of us being educated that he is doing a good job with your comments. Thank YOU!

[@allan9584able]

@@FatHeadCycles did you mention how many turns down on pushrods ?

[@jsmctch]

@@allan9584ableIt depends on the thread pitch of the pushrod you use. Jims has a chart on their web sight.

[@docholiday1034]

Little trick works well...toss cam bearing in freezer night before....so easy. Also put cam bearing driver on before removal and measure top of driver to plate......just helps a bit when doing the bearing install....Great video ....thanks for taking the time !!

[@paulahre382]

The truth is you do know what .140 is if you know the thread pitch of the installation screw. You can determine how far the bearing will advance per revolution. Example: If the pitch is 20 threads per inch, that's 1/20 of an inch or .050" per revolution, therefore .140" equals 2.8 revolutions of the screw (.140/.050=2.8). You can use a simple thread pitch gauge or your calipers to determine the threads per inch of the installation screw.

[@docholiday1034]

Paul Ahre no counting with my digitals... 2-3 seconds write it down done.

[@jonbassett8023]

I am NOT a mechanic. I'm a rider with a new 2019 Road King Special. HOLY CRAP! What an amazing video!!! Can't tell u how much I enjoyed this vid! You are meticulous and care about yer work. STELLAR performance and material! Super educational. Makes me wanna try my hand at a Red Shift cam install...thank you!

[@kevincalhoun4796]

Thanks much for putting this video series together. I just finished my stage 2 upgrade this morning with zero issues. Thanks much.

[@jerrym2321]

For those of you that only want to measure once....the Jim's install tool has 18 threads per inch (TPI). 1 turn = 1/18", or 0.0556". One flat (there are six on the head) = 0.0093". You should be able to do the math to figure out how many flats you need to turn the install tool to get the proper depth.

[@payogie]

FYI... Per Fueling lifter instructions, the oil holes face one another. Just replaced my cam and this video was a tremendous help.

[@HammerHeadGarage]

I just did this today. You have alot more room if you take the throttle body off (3 screws). Good job.

[@dz3471]

I was told that the reason you install the cam bearing with the letters or numbers out is because that part of the bearing is beefier by design so that when you press it in there are no issues.

[@1Dcorace]

The cam bearing orientation, number out, allows you to push on a flat. The other side has a small radius. One thing I do is use a real tacky assembly lube on the installation pilot and that bearing doesn't go anywhere while you seat it. Another nice vid, good job.

[@michaelmorgan5714]

Nice touch with the thread chase. That reminds me I have to get back my Harley tap 1/4-24 from an old friend.

[@quiettime6871]

Facing the numbers on the bearing at the tool will face them out when they are installed. This is generally accepted practice for press-in bearings so you can read the numbers.

[@KevinFreist]

By the way the producer this video did a great job he is an excellent mechanic he does understand the nuances of putting a fine piece of Machinery together the right way my problem is with Harley-Davidson the manufacturer not this mechanic he did a great job on this video his skill level can be applied to almost anything what is needed most on a Harley

[@Breakout2018]

Great video! One of the best I’ve seen. Thanks for the detailed steps. I feel better about doing my 2018 Breakout.

[@ncautolink]

Thank you, most videos are for S&S oil pimp and cam install. I’m doing 475 cam w lifters and cuffs and updated oil pimp on 2019 Street Gide. I’ve done it before on twin cams, but this video down to the point using a factory pump and cam plate! Exactly what I needed to guide me!

[@scalpingfxnet3050]

i know nothing nothing about mechanic but geess it was impressive to watch and most of all interesting

[@greg4673]

BEARING INSTALLATION PROCEDURAL NOTE:: The cam bearings are placed in one way only. WRITING SIDE FACING THE TECHNICIAN. This is because the outer surface is designed specifically to take the pressure of installation without being distorted in any way. The wall/flange this bearing is thicker on the 'writing side' and often times slightly 'flatter' than the inside surface which fits against the cam box.

[@bav114]

This is KZbin at its best. Great video together with the removal video. Very interesting and educational. Makes me want to get right into my engine. Thanks for taking the time to produce it.

[@FatHeadCycles]

That is why we do what we do. To educate. Thanks for watching!

[@christophermorgan2840]

I’m bringing my bike in on the 21st to get this done. Can’t wait. I’ve heard great things about you guys.

[@40indyuk]

Thanks for this just done it ,tappet cuff torque is 100in/lb only

[@ed0985587]

Good video! I am completely jealous of that torque wrench..

[@FatHeadCycles]

It was a large investment but well worth it since I use it so frequently. Thanks for watching

[@handgunner1911]

I APPRECIATE BRO THAT YOU DONT CUT CORNERS ESPECIALLY THE CAM BEARING YOU ARE 100 PERCENT RIGHT SOME PEOPLE WONT CHANGE IT AND IT MAKES SENSE NEW CAM NEW BEARING NEW CAM OLD BERAING YOU COULD HAVE PROBLEMS AND AS YOU STATED THE STOCK BEARING ISNT AS GOOD GREAT VIDEO AND EXCELLENT WORK BRO!!!

[@toolmaker5150]

I realize this video is 4 years old. Definitely one of the best out there. I have never heard of anyone measure bearing depth. Doesn’t the tool have a lip that sets it to the correct depth when it stops ? Thanks.

[@lindacruz2367]

this is the reason you make $ 70 a hour. God bless you brother.🇺🇲

[@Frostytravels]

One fine job. your attention to detail will bode well for all your repairs. This was a quality job from start to finish. Well done my friend Well done.

[@michaelbarras6950]

The inner cam bearing. If you look at both sides, one side is round, the other side has a flat portion(with part number). The bearing is designed like this for ease of install into press fit. The round side goes in bore first and the flat side(with numbers) against the tool. I also agree to change the bearing. To me, for wear purpose. Mating new surfaces. Break in. For the better torrington bearing. Ina's suck!

[@samuelgoertz5072]

As I understand roller brgs like this one, the side with the numbers is stronger because it is thicker metal.

[@alsims8280]

Thanks for the info and great tutorial video. I just installed a Woods 22X cam, new updated oil pump and rear cover, woods lifters and FuelMoto pushrods. Your video made the job simple to understand and perform. Keep it up!

[@chuckluperful]

Al Sims Hey that's the cam I just bought ,installing soon how do you like it

[@alsims8280]

@@chuckluperful plenty of power and great idle lope. I'm running a S&S Sidewinder pipe. I started with the decibel reducer in, but pulled it because it was so quiet. I think it might have had just a dash more power with the reducer. That's just the seat of the pants feel, but overall I'm very happy. I ride the bike solo'd out and running like a RGS. When I put the tour pak and passenger back on for touring this summer, I think the cam will really shine. Very happy.

[@chuckluperful]

@@alsims8280 Yes sir we ride two up with my stuff and her shit lol ,that's why I choose this cam,,how many flats did you a just the push rods to ? Do you have the 107 ?

[@alsims8280]

@@chuckluperful I used the FuelMoto pushrods and was very happy. It took 24 flats (6 turns) from zero lash and she runs sweet! It is a 2017 RGU with the 107

[@chuckluperful]

@@alsims8280 ahh thank you, I think that's what my older twin cam was 24 flats, thank you bud

[@davidficke3474]

I am a professional mechanic with thirty years heavy equipment experience and Harley Davidson factory training at MMI Phoenix. Bearings are designed to be pressed in with the pressure applied to the numbered side of the bearing; I have never seen an exception to this rule.

[@KevinFreist]

Yeah man you would think that's common sense you don't put force laterally on the balls within the bearing are you trash them before they ever go into service. I appreciate your comments right on target

[@steevo074]

Pressing a bearing on the lettered side is spec'd from the manufacturer because that side is stronger, and meant to withstand those forces. The casing can crack if you press from the other side

[@1Dcorace]

I think there is a flat on one side of the cam bearing. The side with the numbers is the flat side. One side is flat and the other has a radius on it. I wet the outside of the bearing shell before setting it. I use a thrust bearing while pulling too. I found the brass thrust washer was making shavings with pressure was applied to it and didn't want to see that. It's also easier riding on a bearing.

[@markj6506]

Thank you for a great video especially the touque and measuring specifics. Doing a camchest kit this weekend with all the new parts with a redshift 468 cam.

[@gabrielfernandez566]

Awesome video, I got a little lost when you installed the push rods, and the visual on the adjustment S couldn't be seen, but I know SS has a vid on that, I, sure it's similar.

[@thefloorguy7674]

I miss these videos.

[@bnorby213]

Awesome video man!! Would have never done this myself without your video!! Keep up the good work, we appreciate it

[@FatHeadCycles]

Thanks for watching and glad it helped!!

[@aleski4090]

Markings on the bearing out is to show the part number to anyone who works on it in the future, without the need of removing the entire bearing.

[@brandonbeauregard4901]

When in doubt numbers out!

[@majorpayne4098]

Why not measure the bolt head to front of plate and check with your digital measuring device for the .14" ?

[@jeffedwards6414]

Or the threads so he knows how many turns?

[@Smiling_mike]

Very informative, much appreciated. Cam shopping now!

[@FatHeadCycles]

Thanks for watching. The Red Shift cam should not be counted out. It is a bad Mfer!

[@jonbassett8023]

SOLD!!! I'm going with the red shift!!

[@eb1941]

Great video. If I leave the lifters in place during the job, will they bleed down? Do I need to remove the lifters and manually pump oil into the lifter before installing the adjustable pushrod? Thanks

[@austinjunkman2449]

"numbers out" for most seals and bearings. The Torrington (now koyo) needle bearing is designed to be pressed in on the number side. Look at the bearing, the back is round. You can damage the bearing pressing it in wrong.

[@SB-vp7km]

Thanks for your time doing this.very useful.

[@bluesriderDF]

Thanks for the great couple of vids on this project, I enjoyed watching.

[@richardedwin5980]

Great video. Thanks for the thoroughness of the directions and the simplicity. Would definitely motivate me to try it myself under the watchful of someone more knowledgable. Can you provide more information on the rethreader tool you use and the tool you use to lock the gears when installing timing chain and where I can get them? While she was cracked open the customer should've upgraded to the new S&S cam plate and oil pump!!! Thanks.

[@FatHeadCycles]

The thread cleaning kit is available from Tooltopia.com. As for the cam locking gear we have them for sale here at the shop. 301-825-9007. The customer didnt do the S&S pump/plate because it was not available then. That is a standard part that we do if we do a cam in the shop. Thanks for watching

[@richardedwin5980]

Fat Head Cycles thanks for the info. I've browsed through the tooltopia site and with the vast selection is there any one specific set I should be looking for? I retire next year and I'm going to school to be an HD tech and want to get as many of the tools now while I still have a strong income. Thanks for the help.

[@LOLewie]

You should try Parker oring lube for the orings. Its thick and will stick the orings in place better

[@mikeflynn750]

The HD assembly lube is like molasses. Does a great job of holding the o-rings in place.

[@johnnygoodlife]

thank you for all your videos and sharing your knowledge.

[@saddle8bag]

Very informative videos. Thanks for sharing!

[@FatHeadCycles]

It is our pleasure. Thanks for watching!

[@josetorrez1663]

Awesome detail! I have to say I have watched 20 different videos of this being done in preparation to do mine. One question I have is I’m curious why you didn’t check out runout before doing everything? Also is it worth putting the extra money into an S&S oil pump and cam plate over stock? I have a 22 Ultra.

[@garygruber1452]

one suggestion: clean all the bolts with brake cleaner prior to installation to create a good adhesion surface for the Loctite.

[@levievans9311]

X-CEP-TIONAL!Nice work FAT HEAD CYCLES.😉

[@secureaspects1]

Thank you for the video, learned a lot. I noticed you went with the original chain drive and tensioner, why not a gear drive I am sorry if I missed that if it was covered.

[@FatHeadCycles]

Great question. First reason is that the Red Shift cam is only available in chain drive. Second, I am not a fan of gear drive cams on a factory press fit crankshaft. If the crank gets excessive run out it will ruin your day. A chain setup is more forgiving!

[@michaelburke2824]

@@FatHeadCycles red shift cams come in gear drive!!!!! I got them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have dark horse balance and weld your crank shaft if you want your motor to last!!!!!

[@BoreSight1973]

2nd the tool rental co. Lol. I would imagine you install the bearing with the numbers visible from the outside so can read the p/n next time you’re in the chest.

[@FatHeadCycles]

you could be on to something there!

[@eyerock50]

You have the numbers out because the case of the bearing is thicker/stronger on that side and can withstand the pressure when pushing on it. The back side would collapse into the rollers and bind them.

[@DONALD-MAGA]

On the tool rental, I bought an MBS cam bearing tool for $150 and just sold it on www.hdforums.com for $125. That's my equivalent of a $25 tool rental.

[@killer-jc9gt]

Do you have the part number for the cam lock tool

[@quiettime6871]

Dividing 1 by the number of threads per inch on the install shaft will give you how many thousandths per turn the bearing will move

[@jeffgarrett7452]

Yep, and then that result by 6 will tell you how much per flat.

[@AshHol01]

Great video thank you! One thing I would comment on is the non-soaking of the lifters in oil prior to installation and then during the push-rod install / adjustment, how does that affect the leakdown and spinning of the pushrod? The lifter can't leak down if it wasn't soaked in oil and / or had the air removed. Just a question.

[@richardlindsey7112]

Getting that intake and throttle body off would have made tappet cover and push rod adjustment a whole lot easier

[@davidcoyote8921]

Notice: the cam bearing has a rolled surface on the side entering the case, and a flatter face on the numbered side contacting the insert tool.

[@FatHeadCycles]

Awesome info. It makes sense. You guys are bad ass!!

[@AshHol01]

What Torque wrench would you recommend getting if you would only do this a few times a year but are a perfectionist?

[@chriscooper3059]

Where did you get the cam sprocket holder? That black block that keeps the sprockets from moving? I've only been able to find one for the Twin Cam.

[@moonshooter6216]

the side with numbers is hardened. im a service advisor at a harley shop and my master tech told me that once. thats why the numbers always face you

[@JeffinTD]

There are airplane mechanics who are not as careful, clean, meticulous and professional. You do nice work. I wonder if a person could put some jamb nuts on the bearing installer and set it to stop at the desired depth? Probably take just as long as move it a bit, measure, repeat method...

[@ncautolink]

Awesome video

[@jimmyjohnson1452]

Great video. I noticed once I got my cam chain on without the tensioner i rotated the motor and noticed the chain would go loose then tight .Is that normal?Thanks

[@Buttheadstyle]

Awesome video man 👍

[@jamessouthworth1699]

I swapped out my cam bearings for the same reason when I did my cams on my tc88 but you would think for all the money you spend for a Harley it should have the better bearing in there to begin with

[@mrnolettebn]

Thank you

[@dime4ever101]

Question time can you put the bike in neutral and pull the cam cover off first and use the bolt on the crank to turn the engine over or do you have to put it in gear and use the tire? Only asking because I don’t own a motorcycle jack thanks for the video man very well shot and informed cam video this right here is what’s going to save me hundreds of dollars in labor

[@FatHeadCycles]

Can you do that? Yes I guess so. Raising the rear wheel and rotating the motor over with your hand is the way that the factory and most major engine builder recommend to do it. I just follow suit. Thanks for watching!!

[@DONALD-MAGA]

Yes, you can turn the engine over using the crank gear bolt, I've done it both ways. It takes less torque to turn the motor over than the bolt is torqued, so you're not tightening it any further. Using the crank bolt makes it a little harder to find TDC if you're checking for compression from the spark plug hole.

[@wheelspin1000]

Just subbed! Your instructional videos are GREAT! Thank You!

[@omutt3423]

Loved this video. Any chance you can do a 107 to 114 stage 3 or 4 upgrade?

[@fkk9579]

Hey fathead, why not cool the cam bearing and lube it on the outside a bit for the less possible distortion ? This shovel/blockhead thanks you for the walkthrough .

[@carmelopalmini]

Compliment. From Italy. You are nice.

[@buckotte1414]

Perhaps clean out oil with a "q-tip" on crank and cam bolts red thread lock....

[@TheMetalmachine467]

No gasket in the back of the oil pump The old style has none and have problems but updated one has gasket

[@MadMexism]

I know this is a late question, but the binding that techs talk about in this procedure, is the binding the actual stop of rotational progression, or just harder to turn the rear wheel? great work Sir.

[@richardedwin5980]

Chris, how did you measure depth of the cam bearing? Did you measure to the front edge of the bearing?

[@richardstarr2537]

Wry good video! I am ready to get it done.

[@Breakout2018]

What’s the purpose of not using original washer for pinion shaft bolt ? Thanks

[@donle2511]

Hi, love your video,can I ask a question about my Road king M8 oil pump not work after 4K miles ,please tell me what going on with that? Thank you

[@anthonyguess5528]

It's because it's a Harley you won't have that problem with any other bike engine

[@t.s.racing]

@@anthonyguess5528 always good to get the advice from a real enjinear.

[@oleironhead1367]

Great videos...THANKS!!

[@demetriusvalentine555]

You spun the wheel after putting oil pump back on but how did you find tdc again?

[@abmbarry]

Having the numbers on the bearing shows that the installer didn't cheat by not replacing the original factory bearing? (in the event of a failure?

[@mikes.1882]

Of course, my doing this to my bike voids any engine warranty, yes?

[@stevepickett4258]

Great video thank you so much I learned a lot from this

[@ChampsChores]

Thanks for the great video! I’m putting a new cam in my 2018 Road Glide Special as part of my stage 4 HD 114 kit. I measured the stock cam bearing at 4.238 inches to the outside of my Jims 5806-1 bearing puller/installer. I pressed the new bearing in VERY slowly measuring like 6 times. Ultimately, the bearing install tool bottomed out on the case with the bearing only at 4.201 inches. When I put the new cam in though it can’t rotate fully as it contacts the two rounded lips on the sides of the bearing hole. The stock cam rotates fully within the housing but the cam lifts aren’t as high on the stock cam. In order for the new cam to be able to fully rotate in the housing without making contact it has about 1/16” gap between the cam and the bearing. That can’t be right. Am I doing something wrong, or is there a problem with the cam in my 114 kit?

[@DONALD-MAGA]

I can't see that 37 thousandths difference would cause interference to the inside of the cam chest. When you torque the the cam gear bolt, it pulls the cam forward a lot more than 37 thousandths of an inch. I used an MBS tool that is similar to Jim's but a lot less expensive, and I came up about 30 thousandths short too but the bearing is seated past the edge of the case. After torqueing the cam gear bolt I was able to turn the cam freely before I dropped the lifters in the bores. I haven't started mine yet because I still need to connect the exhaust and the Thunder Max. It's too cold in my garage to be hanging out there too long.

[@chrismorris9065]

I had the same issue. I put the old bearing on the seat with the flat side facing the new bearing, and seated the bearing to the depth needed. That's how I solved it. My seating tool also bottomed out before I got the bearing seated to original depth.

[@rogerhelmsiii4753]

Awesome instructional video. Kudos brother.

[@mikeez5455]

Great video

[@FatHeadCycles]

Thank you so much for watching.

[@chrismorris9065]

I started the cam replacement this week. So I ran into something interesting with the depth of the cam bearing. The bearing was set deeper than the tool seat. It bottomed before it was to the same depth. I have to slip the old bearing on the tool and set it to the original depth. Is that common? The depth was 107.56 mm. Probably the most tedious part of the build. Got good at removing and re-installing the cam bearing puller/installer! 2nd question. S&S says to set there lifters/valve lash to 24 flats after 0 lash. Zippers says set the lash to 24 flats below 0 lash, let lifters bleed, then bottom the lifters and then come up 4 flats. Confused. Which one do I use with the Red Shift cam. Go with Zippers or go with what S&S says? In the video, it appeared you just went 24 flats below 0 lash? Do you have a video on setting valve lash?

[@CVO_MAN]

I see that it is not necessary to change Cam Plate and Oil Pump when installing the 468 Cam. Good to know.

[@johnnyceeuontheroad.2389]

Good stuff Big Dawg, very nicely done and very informative thank you.. from the 818SFV..

[@rsbharley4766]

Great video, thanks for sharing. Cheers

[@chriscooper3059]

Why do you use a thinner washer on the bottom sprocket? What is the purpose of changing it to a smaller washer?

[@westrodriguez8402]

Now is it advisable to change the cam plate and pump to maybe a s&s or is that just for quality

[@FatHeadCycles]

It i highly recommended to change out the factory pump and plate. We like either the S&S pump or the Fueling HP+ Series.

[@stevedragseth4967]

You put Locktite on oily bolts.You should make sure they are clean before putting Locktite on.Always change cam bearing!

[@David-og7di]

Good old Harley, still filling their engines with 2nd rate components and leaving it to the aftermarket & customer's wallets to pick up the slack. Glad I kept the Evo.

[@12wingwfetech]

You are so right there , I had 92 Evo had it for 11 years , 55 K all I put on it was a starter relay . Bought a 2010 SG 70 K had it for 9 years so far ,front wheel bearings , transmission started to leak just took it apart bearings in the Main Drive gear failed ,ruined the main drive shaft probably going to need $1,000.00 in parts and special tools with me doing the work . Why can,t they make anything any good in North America any more . Got friends with Gold Wings with 200,000 K al they have ever did is changed oil and put on tires . Companies over here all they are concerned with is keeping the share holders happy screw the customers

[@pharaohnile867]

Hi how come there is so many cam washer spacers .I never understood why .aren't the m8 engine made the same inside shouldn't they use they all use the same came washer spacer size.

[@RevAldea]

The cam bearing is very site tapered at 10/100,000" smallest dia is on the flywheel side of the cam bearing port. H~D~ engine history fix 1974. I worked for H~ D~ back then this to keep the bearing from working way toward the flywheel, and makes ir fit Oh so tighty.

[@FatHeadCycles]

Thank you for that piece of knowledge!!

[@goodboyringo9716]

What is amazing is why the hell doesn't Harley put good part in the dam engine. The cam bearing is a great example of what I'm saying . Adjustable push rods should come stock. I would change the oil pump also.

[@FatHeadCycles]

I agree. The cam bearing is a cheap part to install at the factory.

[@kingkrimson8771]

A full complement bearing probably costs Harley 50 cents more each, that's why they don't use it. The bean counters must have their say.

[@12wingwfetech]

It is all about keeping the stock holders happy . Screw the customers

[@kennyjames439]

Where do you get the push rod adjustments I didn't hear you mention that

[@Hoggdoc1946]

Kenny James - Generally there is a spec/install sheet that gives you the necessary information. If not contact the pushrod manufacture....

[@roncoburn7771]

Do you crank the motor over after A cam install when you’re all done to build oil pressure or do you just start it

[@FatHeadCycles]

You can definitely crank the motor over to build oil pressure. Just keep your spark plugs out so the motor spins over easier! Great question

[@buckotte1414]

The one side pressed in is because the numbers side is a little beefier, the other end of the bearing shell is rolled, and thus easy to crush with a pressing tool...which would remove needle roller end float....dangerous to the bearing.

[@steveg56]

How important was it to remove the shipping grease from the new cam? I installed mine with that still on as I thought it was assembly lube. Do you think it will harm the bike?

[@FatHeadCycles]

Will it harm it? Not sure. What I do know that it is a thick jelly like substance that is much thicker than assembly lube. I like to make sure that an engine is as clean as possible when I assemble it. That being said I clean everything and then install assembly lube as needed. Thanks for the comment!

[@tax905972]

Steve Gutierrez most likely can’t handle the heat.

[@shaunchigas5493]

Steve Gutierrez It could possibly plug up your oil galleys

[@mr.robert2507]

Outstanding. Thanks

[@FatHeadCycles]

It is our pleasure. Thanks for watching.

[@paulhenry4276]

When you adjusted the push rods with the lifters on base circle of the cam, are you not also to ensure that the cylinder is on TDC so the valves are closed? Sorry if I missed you doing it.

[@richardedwin5980]

At the 26:55 mark I'm not understanding the use of the washers. Can you explain further??nalso how many washers are you using? Size?